200801

TUESDAY 1 JANUARY 2008 – Surprisingly we are all up quite early with only Ron feeling a bit under the weather.  Before leaving we head across to the dump station followed by Kevin. Just as we are pulling away Ruth comes racing after us.  Problem - they are in the shit, literally.  Kevin was walking past the dump station when his keys fell out of his pocket and down the sewage hole.  It’s not quite as bad as we first think as it not the ignition keys but ones for the locker and bike padlock.  They have no spares so Kevin borrows a pole from us to try fishing for them.  Not a nice job as it stinks to high heaven and visibility is zero.  He soon gives up when we find that our locker key also fits his locker and door.  We can’t stop laughing about it and making wisecracks - “shit start to the day Kev”, “oh well shit happens” etc.  Once on the highway heading south we pass numerous other lovely beaches but our goal is the southernmost one on this stretch called El Requesion.  As we come over the top of the mountain the wind hits us full force.  The beach itself is windswept in the extreme but most attractive with access to a small island over a sand spit at low tide.  Bag a couple of palapas to make the wind bearable and set out to explore.  A sign says it is 60 pesos (£3) night but there’s no one to take the money.  Across on the island it is a bit less windy and we walk around the shoreline then discover lots of stingray skeletons on the beach.  They are really odd as lots of the cartilage from the wings is still there and they look rather like the concord aircraft.  Were it not for the wind this would be a great place to stay but it’s renowned for it and we will just do the one night.  Spaghetti bolognaise and cards at our place rounds off the day.

EL REQUESION

WEDNESDAY 2 JANUARY – We are all up early so head off to take breakfast at a rest area rather than risk someone coming round for the camping fees.  It’s a stunning drive first to the end of the Bahia de Concepcion and then through the mountains.  We can’t believe just how many cacti there are in Mexico and the sight of them will always remind us of this country.  In Loreto we make our way to the marina where we can get water.  Someone show us the taps, they are by palm trees on the strip that divides the dual carriageway but the local policeman clears it for us to use them.  He even comes over and directs traffic around us whilst the hosepipe is connected.  Unfortunately the water flow is painfully slow and we are embarrassed to stay long enough for a proper fill up.  Walk along the promenade then up the pedestrian street to the main square.  It’s really quiet and a far cry from the days when the cruise ships are in port and dispatching thousands of tourists.  There are some interesting buildings including a church and it’s all very appealing.  We take lunch at McLulu’s tacos bar before heading home.  South of the town there are huge developments of apartments and holiday homes plus a golf course.  Beyond this it gets much quieter and we begin to look out for El Juncalito beach.  The sign leads us to a small community of homes, again many built up around motorhomes.  We can see the camping area further round the bay but not how to get there.  A villager sends us back onto the main road and tells us to take the next dirt track on the left but warns us the road in is a bit rough.  An understatement as the initial wide flat track suddenly drops off in front of us.  Steve & Kevin get out to explore further along what looks like a riverbed full of boulders.  They return with smiling faces as we can get through and there is a really nice free camping area at the end.  In fact we have a choice of camping under the palm trees or behind the beach and opt for beach.  Here the sand is the darker volcanic variety backed by boulders.   This is another area notorious for wind so we position our motorhomes at right angles to create a windbreak.  Today it is calm and really hot in our little coral but out neighbour Herb tells us it’s the first calm day since before Christmas. 

EL JUNCALITO

THURSDAY 3 JANUARY – With just the waves gently swishing in the background this is a nice quiet spot and we all wake refreshed.  It’s another lovely calm day and we are all very happy with this place so set up camp properly with the awnings out, floor mats and other home comforts.  Steve finds a sandy dip behind the beach surround by bushes and perfect for a bit of nude sunbathing.  Kevin has an internet signal from across the bay so we are well suited.  Herbs wife is home in Canada for the birth of a grandchild so we invite him to join us all for a BBQ lunch.  He arrives back from a fishing trip in his boat and offers us his catch to add to our meal.  He has a nice tuna and a few other smaller fish including bass and says he will cook them and bring them over.  The fish is delicious as are the pork steaks accompanied by rice and stir-fried veg.  The meal is rounded off with a cake that Ruth has baked.  Accompanied by a drop, or two, or red wine we could not be happier.  The water here is much warmer than on Cocos so we take frequent dips throughout the day.  The only obvious downside here is that we lose the sun behind a large mountain around 4pm.   

EL JUNCALITO 2

FRIDAY 4 JANUARY – The cloudy start to the day leads to a hive of activity when Kevin begins doing odd jobs around the van and prompts the rest of us into action.  With little wind we find a kind of algae flowing into the bay turning the sea red.  A fruit and vegetable deliveryman drives arrives in the camping area and does a roaring trade.  He tells us he will be back on Tuesday with bread and eggs.  We’ve been gathering bits of wood and have enough for an evening campfire.  Herb joins us along with newcomers Bruce & Karen.  Both Kevin & Bruce have guitars so we enjoy listening to their music whilst star gazing. 

EL JUNCALITO 3

SATURDAY 5 JANUARY – It’s a very hot day and Steve & I are fried out of our “nudist sunbathing hole” early on.  There seems to be less algae in the water so we take many cooling dips.  The birds here are amazing.  Many of the pelicans fly around together and seem to make synchronised dives into the ocean making a huge splash.  Late afternoon we walk around the bay to check out some of the hidden coves but one has no beach and the other two have stagnant water with stuff floating on top.  It’s a much warmer evening so we sit out until late then round off the night watching “Beverley Hillbillies” on DVD.

EL JUNCALITO 4

SUNDAY 6 JANUARY – Another glorious day in paradise.  Quite a few Mexicans visit the beach for the day but with our motorhomes in an L shape we just hear them driving past.  The water is now clear and much more appealing.  Sit out to enjoy our prawn stir-fry lunch. Steve is very happy when Herb invites him round to watch football on TV.  Supper and cards at K&R’s rounds off another great day.

EL JUNCALITO 5

MONDAY 7 JANUARY – It’s been a cold night and we wake to lots of condensation but things soon warm up.  Steve & Ruth check out the snorkelling at the corner of the beach and report a wide variety of fish.  They are running low on food so I invite K&R to join us for curry and chips at lunchtime.

EL JUNCALITO 6

TUESDAY 8 JANUARY – It’s still calm and we could easily be tempted to stay longer but K&R don’t have a solar panel and now need to run their generator for 1 hour each day to keep their batteries topped up and they are also low on supplies.  In fact that’s an understatement as they were completely out of alcohol by yesterday.  Guess it’s the first year out syndrome as we still have over half our supply and bought less than them!  It’s an easy journey across the country to Ciudad Constitucion.  The large town has confusing roads as the road you arrive on turns into the service road so you then have to join the main central stretch.  To turn right or left you go back onto the service road then make the turn from there.  Luckily we see signs for “Ley” supermarket well ahead.  As soon as we stop a Police car pulls up alongside Kevin.  I get our papers ready in anticipation of a check but they only go to Kevin’s van.  Much gesticulation follows and we can see Kevin getting frustrated but don’t want to interfere.  Eventually he hands over some money and the Police prepare to drive off.  A white couple walk over to speak to us all.  By coincidence it’s Phillip and Patricia who we are on our way to visit.  Using the Internet Kevin replied to their offer of a place to park motorhomes so we were on our way to see them.  They spotted the two motorhomes on the car park and wondered if it was we.  Unfortunately they were not in time to save Kevin paying a $20 (£10) bribe to the Police.  He was pulled up for not wearing a seat belt but their motorhome only has lap belts and he was wearing it but not visibly so.  Without enough command of the language he found it hard to argue his case even after showing them the lap belt but with Phillips help he may have done better or managed a cheaper pay off.  Ley’s is a nice modern supermarket selling most grocery items but few American imports.  We all do a big shop before driving out to Phillip & Pat’s.  They stopped full time motorhoming a few years ago to buy a small basic property with an orange orchard but having worked hard to partially renovate the home they have found the task too much and are both missing English speaking company hence their advert out for visitors.  In fact they have now sold up and move back to the States next month.  They are a delightful couple and eager for information about our travels and Kevin & Ruth’s story. 

NR CIUDAD CONSTITUCION

WEDNESDAY 9 JANUARY – Phillip asks what we want to do in the area and offers to help out with transport etc.  Ruth stays behind to cut Patricia’s hair whilst the rest of us go into Ciudad Constitucion to get some jobs done.  We find a dentist and the first one asks 400 pesos – 600 pesos for a check up and clean.  The next speaks less English but charges 300 pesos (£15) and can see us in 15 minutes.  Obviously there is a high price to pay for the English language but we will muddle through on the cheaper option. He does a great job on the clean and polish then puts a camera in my mouth and shows me problem areas on a monitor.  He reckons eHe I need 4 caps at 1500 pesos (£75) each.  I ask about fillings as an alternative but he says not.  Whilst the price for caps is good I am not convinced I need them and also don’t know how good they would be so pass on that option.  Steve gets by with just the clean and need no further treatment.  I invite everyone to our place for the evening meal and Patricia arrives dressed up with her pearls and a hat on. Steve offers Phil some of our casino beads to match.  I produce my Indian special “Bungi Tallin” served with “chapattis” (warm tortillas).  We move to K&R’s for dessert, Ruth’s homemade chocolate brownies.

NR CIUDAD CONSTITUCION 2

THURSDAY 10 JANUARY – We’ve brought some educational games and gifts for children so Phillip walks us round to the school in the adjoining “Ejido” of Josefa Ortiz De Dominguez.  David runs the school and teaches the 24 children whose age ranges from 6-11.  He seems pleased with the maths games and shows us the classroom complete with computer and overhead projection unit.  We walk around the village and whilst obviously a poor community most homes are kept tidy and gardens contain a few plants.  After lunch Phillip drives us all out to San Carlos at the end of the road.  It’s not the most attractive place with a power plant and a beach covered in green algae.  The village looks much more neglected and rather rough in parts.  He then takes us along a bumpy dirt and sand road to the nicer San Buto beach where we could free camp but the pleasant beach doesn’t warrant the journey in our opinion.  Mounds of shells have been dumped in the area but luckily that’s the only rubbish, unlike in most other areas.  Patricia cooks us all an evening meal in the house and just on dark a couple of girls on motorbikes ride up to pitch their tent in the garden.

NR CIUDAD CONSTITUCION 3

FRIDAY 11 JANUARY – We make a late start after stopping to chat to the bikers Meredith and Laurie as well as Pat & Phil who really don’t want us to leave.  It’s an easy but not very interesting journey over to La Paz.  Virtually all roads converge on this city and it’s big.  We make our way to CCC supermarket but find things are more expensive than they were at Leys and the only real attraction is if you want to buy American products at high prices.  When we leave there we try to head to the waterfront but lose Kevin en route, luckily the back up plan is to meet out at the beach.  It’s a very pleasant drive along the attractive waterfront but the tourist office is not where the book shows it to be.  Further there is a sign for the tourist office so we take the next turning but find ourselves being shouted at by taxi drivers as we are going the wrong way up a one-way street.  We abandon everything else in the city, as there are too many one-way streets, dead ends or narrow lanes and low trees.  Heading northeast we follow the winding road around the bay to the ferry port at Pichilingue.  We want information for our crossing to mainland Mexico.  At Baja Ferries I get prices for the 6-hour ferry to Topolobampo (6240 pesos motorhome + 710 pesos pp) and the 18-hour one to Mazatlan (12500 pesos motorhome + 800 pesos pp).  Offices for the other companies are already closed.  There is free camping nearby at Playa Tecolote where vehicles are strewn along the shore either side of the restaurant.  It’s quite windy but we get a pleasant spot with a bit of shelter behind shallow dunes.  Over an hour later we are relieved to see K&R roll up.   We all take a walk along the beach and decide that we have the best overall spot even though we do lose the sun a bit earlier because of the ubiquitous mountain.  Meredith & Laurie arrive on their bikes and I invite them to join us for a meal.  They are both in their early 40’s and biking down through Central America to parts of South America.  However only 2 weeks into their trip they are both a bit disillusioned with camping in tiny tents.  K&R join us after for a chat followed by cards

NR LA PAZ, PLAYA TECOLOTE

SATURDAY 12 JANUARY – K&R set out to cycle to the port for the other ferry info whilst we dog sit Whiskey.  A very productive trip as they get prices for the “Transportacion Maritima De California” freight ship to Mazatlan, 6450 (£320) motorhome plus 750 pesos (£37) pp.  Spend the afternoon relaxing after our BBQ lunch.  The sea here is rougher and too cold for me to be tempted in.  Late afternoon we set out to walk to the end of the beach but get side tracked talking to other campers.  Hamburgers followed by cards at K&R’s to round off the day.

PLAYA TECOLOTE 2

SUNDAY 13 JANUARY – Sunday is really the only day the Mexicans have off work so we expected it to be busy on the beach but not starting at 2am with cars using the track as a racecourse!  After lunch we walk to the next beach “Playa Balandra”.  It’s full of Mexicans but a beautiful tropical style sheltered bay.  Luckily it is low tide so we can walk around underneath the overhanging rocks and see the famous “mushroom rock” and then continue past numerous other attractive bays.  We notice that the tide has turned so rather than chance going further we scramble up and over the rocks and get a fine view of Tecolote Beach camping area.  Late afternoon Kevin spots the rare sight of a “Yacht Ferry” going past with 3 superb boats on board. 

PLAYA TECOLOTE 3

MONDAY 14 JANUARY – It’s a cloudy breezy days and a few motorhomes move off but we are happy just to relax.  German neighbours Ulrich and Brigitte come round to chat.  They shipped their “unimog” over to Baltimore and are a well-travelled and interesting couple. 

PLAYA TECOLOTE 4

TUESDAY 15 JANUARY – Kevin needs to drive to La Paz for Internet so we agree to an early departure as well.  Road signs in La Paz are non-existent so even taking the main road to head south involves getting lost and asking directions.  Once out of town it’s easy to take the western part of “the loop”.  Todos Santos is famous as The Eagles based their song “Hotel California” on the hotel in town.  We drive down the main street and park beside the hotel.  It’s very attractive and the restaurant is filled by a coach load of American tourists who are happy to pay the high prices to dine there.  We are content with browsing around and then wandering through the small town centre with lots of craft and tourist shops.  South of town and just after km64 we turn off to Cerillos Beach.  The road is badly corrugated and we shake our way along very slowly whilst being passed by speeding cars.  Reach the fenced in compound of Cerillos Beach Club and park up to investigate.  We find out that this is a private area but we can camp here overnight if we use the bar or restaurant.  However further along the beach is an area with free camping and someone is vacating a nice spot tomorrow morning so we have put our name down for it.  4 drinks in the bar total $20 (£10) so not as cheap as paying to camp!  The beach is a lovely sweep of soft white sand with surfers enjoying the waves.  Sitting out late afternoon it’s possible to see the grey whales passing by in the distance.  Unfortunately developers have cottoned on to the appeal of this area and most of the land behind the beach has been pegged out into lots of sale.  PLAYA CERRITOS, SURF BEACH CLUB

SUNDAY 16 DECEMBER – Mex 1 now takes us near the coast to El Rosario where we tank up with gas, as it will be over 300 miles before we reach another proper petrol station.  Turning inland the narrow highway takes us up into the mountains but this time through forests of cactus.  These are the “cirios” and “cardones” varieties that grow up to 16m tall.  Luckily there are few lorries on the road as passing space is sparse.  Drop down to more dessert but now with huge boulders between the cacti, quite a strange landscape.  In the midst of this is the small town of Catavina our planned destination.  The first campground is in town but very bleak and wind blasted. The “town” itself is a ramshackle collection of accommodation that looks like it should be closed and shanty style homes surrounded by loads of junk.  Not at all inviting.  On the southern outskirts of town Rancho Santa Inez is marginally more appealing for camping and further away from the road.  Take a short stroll around the area, up to their private airfield and on the opposite side between the magnificent cacti.  Surprisingly we are joined by a number of other motorhomes overnight but no generator noise.

CATAVINA, RANCHO SANTA INEZ

600 PESOS (£2.70)

MONDAY 17 DECEMBER – After more hilly terrain we finally reach a flatter more desert like area with dried up lakes.  Traffic is sparse and the few lorries that come past us must be gambling on that fact as they overtake on blind bends, dips in the roads and approaching hills.  We turn off on one of the few main roads off the Mex 1 towards Bahia de Los Angeles.  From the top of a hill we get our first peak at the Sea of Cortez and Bahia de Los Angeles in an attractive bay fringed by islands.  The small fishing village is very basic but does have a gas station and supermarket.  The road south around the bay is too rough for us but heading north towards Punta La Gringa we make it to a beachside campground.  It’s a real has been of a campground and basically just parking but at $2 (£1) night still within our budget and the proceeds go to the local school.  It’s a very attractive spot directly behind the beach and with very few other campers and all of them Canadians.  Apparently it is normally full at this time of year but bad publicity about a couple of incidents on the Baja coupled with high fuel prices have kept many away.  It’s warm enough to sit out and stroll around in T-shirts and Steve even braves a dip in the ocean. 

BAHIA DE LOS ANGELES 1, BRISA DEL MAR CAMPGROUND

$2 (£1)

TUESDAY 18 DECEMBER – It’s still not warm enough for us to put down roots but another day here won’t go amiss.  Ruth is a hairdresser so I get a hair cut then we crank up the generator to give ourselves a blow dry and hair straightening session.  As always Steve never fails to amaze me with what he brings back from his walks, this time a sharks head that looks like a mask.  Notice from my diary that although the camping is very cheap in Mexico we have spent more on camping this last week, $39 (£19) than in the whole of any previous months!  Sit out around the campfire in the evening mulling over what a great lifestyle we all have.

BAHIA DE LOS ANGELES 2, BEACH CAMPGROUND

WEDNESDAY 19 DECEMBER – It’s been a windy night with lots of dogs barking so we are all up early and ready to hit the road.  Just before we rejoin Mex 1 we see a strange kind of mist ahead.  It’s low lying and all the way across in front of us, rather like a sea mist except that we are now inland and part of it is brown, perhaps a fire ahead.  Turning on to the main highway we are happy to see a coach come towards us leading us to believe the road ahead is clear and in no time at all we are through the mystery mist.  Sections of the road have huge potholes and a bad surface but this doesn’t stop the lorries tanking past.  Just north of Guerrero Negro, at the 28^th parallel, we reach the checkpoint to enter Baja California Sur (the southern part of the peninsula).  They are supposed to be checking for fruit but we have heard they will confiscate anything they fancy so my meat is bundled up and hidden in the laundry basket.  An inspector enters Ruth & Kevin van and takes a couple of apples.  A different one walks to Steve window and asks about fruit but we tell him we have eaten ours and he accepts that.  Next we pay 20 pesos (£1) for disinfecting our vehicle, driving over a hose with holes cut in it!  The highway is now slightly wider and in better condition but with more traffic.  At Vizcaino we see Kadekaman Motel advertising RV parking and free wi-fi.  Kevin supplements their income by playing the stock market and could use a good session and I can also catch up on mail.  $10 (£5) night includes use of bathroom and electricity.  With the laundry in town asking 48 pesos (£2.40) to use their washing machines we can offset this against the camping by doing some hand washing on site.  Park by the orange groves and the owner says with permission to take any oranges off the ground.  The rest of the afternoon is a hive of activity rounded off by the best shower so far in Mexico. 

VIZCAINO – HOTEL KADEKAMAN RV PARK

$10 (£5)

THURSDAY 20 DECEMBER – It’s an incredibly cold and misty morning and still like it when we leave after 10am.  Our first stop San Ignacio is a real oasis in the desert.  A river flows through the town creating a lagoon.  Surprisingly there are proper concrete footpaths and streetlights.  We park in the main square and wander round to admire the old mission church and other traditional buildings.  Although it is all very pleasant there seems little to induce us to stay overnight.  A very steep winding roads drops us back down to the east coast at Santa Rosalia an town with an old disused copper mine and port.  Ships that exported the copper returned with wood and iron, which were used as building materials.  The book tells us Eiffel himself designed the local church.  We want to do a major grocery shop prior to hitting the beaches so plan to park, shop then look around.  Drive our motorhomes up the “main street” and only just make it through to the far end of town with no chance of parking.  Ruth & I go walkabout but can only find tiny shops and don’t get a good feel for the place.  Head out of town as fast as we can and as time is pressing on we settle for San Lucas Cove RV Park full of long term RV visitors.  It’s on the beach but nothing outstanding and facilities are minimal.  Watch at movie at R&K’s called All over America about a couple who drop out to travel in an RV, a subject dear to all our hearts.

SAN LUCAS, SAN LUCAS COVE RV PARK

$8 (£4)

FRIDAY 21 DECEMBER – The next town along is Mulege with a lovely oasis setting.  After crossing the river on the new flyover we double back on a dirt track to park beside the river and below the town.  Steve stays with the motorhome whilst Kevin, Ruth and I set out to find a supermarket.  It’s a lovely little town with a fair sized supermarket in the main square.  We decide to explore further before shopping and find many more supermarkets and between them manage to fulfil our lists.  Feeling rather like a packhorse I return to the van leaving Steve & Kevin to go back for the booze.  Whilst they are gone I chat to other motorhomers who are parked and learn that there is a laundry in town.  Also gather information on the many beach camping areas, most of which we had been told were free but now learn that free camping here means low fees, usually under $10.  Steve & Kevin are gone ages as they find yet another supermarket and also hear about Father Christmas appearing in the stadium at noon.  We now feel very comfortable here so all set out to the laundry that has numerous washing machines and a reasonable price of 190 pesos (95p) per load.  During the 20 minute cycle we find a store that fills your containers with purified drinking water for 10 pesos (50p) 25 litres and there meet another camper who recommends Coco Beach the same one the other couple are on.  Drop the laundry at the vans and catch the tail end of the Father Christmas prize handout having missed the kids all bashing the paper donkey to get the sweets out.  Stop at a local street stall for fish and prawn tacos, 115 pesos (55p), served with a selection of salad vegetables.  Our extended leisurely visit to Mulege has been extremely productive and we are now ready to find our Christmas spot on the beach. At the gas station we are offered and buy 1-kilo scallops for 100 pesos (£5).  We are now in Conception Bay with clear blue water and sandy beaches.  In fact this area is used on the cover of many tourist brochures.  The first easily accessible beach is the wide flat bay of Santispac.  A little further on Cocos Bay is more to our liking, it’s still near the road but backed by mangrove and surrounded by hills.  Each camping has its own palapa (thatched hut) right on the beach and we bag two spots together near the far end.  There’s a dump station, rubbish bins and pit toilets that even Steve won’t use but the setting alone is worth the price.  We are soon sat out toasting ourselves to our piece of paradise.  Many of the long-term residents come past to introduce themselves and we are invited to join in the Christmas dinner plus other activities.  Some people have gone to great trouble personalising their camping areas with decorations, additional rooms, signs and other accessories.  Most are Canadians who come here every winter having explored the Baja and decided this is the best spot.  To them we are known as transients!  We cook up the scallops and sit in Kevin & Ruth’s palapa to have dinner but we either didn’t prepare the scallops correctly or were sold bad ones as they are like rubber!

MULEGE, COCOS BEACH

600 pesos (£3)

John (Hungarian) & Margaret (Canadian)

Harold & Joyce (Canadians)

Ron & Marylyn & dog Tope (Canadians)

Lawrence & Rikki (Canadians)

John & Margaret & dog Emma (Canadians)

Chewy & Elaine (Americans)

Gordo & Shirley (Canadians from Kalowna)

Steve (English) & Liz (American)

Ron & Louise (Canadians – Yukon)

Gordo & Gwen (Jamaican)

SATURDAY 22 DECEMBER – Wake up and open the blind so that we can lie in bed admiring the view.  With the wind rocking the van and a high tide we could easily be on a ship.  Apparently this is the Santa Anna wind again and once it starts it goes on for 3 or 4 days.  Doesn’t stop us sitting out in the shelter of the palapa though.  We try to read but keep being distracted by hummingbirds buzzing close by, pelicans diving down for fish plus other water birds displaying their feeding tactics.  A number of vendors come by selling mainly blankets and jewellery but there is no pressure and they soon move on.  Take a short stroll along the beach to meet a few of the other campers.

MULEGE 2, COCOS BEACH

SUNDAY 23 DECEMBER – Along with K&R we walk to the small settlement of Posada Concepcion.  Up on the hill Kevin gets out his computer and with the aid of his mini satellite dish he has an Internet connection.  It’s quite bizarre to be sitting there reading and sending messages.    The “village” itself is delightful, very small and made up of homes built around caravans and motorhomes amongst purpose built beach houses.  In the middle of one of the streets is a small plunge pool filled with natural hot spring water.  Return via Escondido Beach where we meet a couple of hippy style campers who are just settling in. They have a proper house sofa out on the beach and inside the palapa have hung up all their possessions.  Inside the odour of wacky baccy permeates the air and this seems amusing as the book they have left out on the bench is called “how to give up smoking”.  In the afternoon most people gather at Judy & Howard’s for gift giving. We all take along gifts valued between $5 and $10 and place them on a mat.  When it’s your turn you take a gift, open it and either keep it or swap it with someone else’s.  Gifts can only be swapped twice before they are frozen. This continues with much merriment until all the original gifts have been taken.  We then break for lunch made up of snacks brought along by everyone.  Next the gift exchange resumes in reverse order until finally I end up with a pair of linen pants, and Steve gets some toiletries that I had given Ruth to donate. Our evening meal is at K&R’s followed by a couple of episodes of Darling Buds of May.

MULEGE 3, COCOS BEACH

MONDAY 24 DECEMBER – A pod of frolicking dolphins in the bay get us off to a good start.  4 Belgian lads came to camp up last night and I invite them round for hot drinks.  They are also members of “Couchsurfing” but have not found any members in this area.  Steve & Liz call down to see if we would like to go across to one of the island on their boat.  Ruth is busy cooking so Steve takes Steve, Kevin & I over on the first trip.  There’s a pretty little beach but it’s much windier than Cocos.  By the time Steve returns with Liz & Ruth it’s blowing up quite a storm and the sea is getting choppy.  They decide it is time to beat a hasty retreat with Kevin, Ruth, Liz & Steve heading back first.  We are along on our own deserted island with no wish to be abandoned so are pleased when Steve returns for us.  However it has got so choppy that it takes a few attempts for us to get off the island.  We have to bail out for most of the crossing and big waves drench us all but it’s fun.  Back on “our” beach we soon warm up in the sun.  John has given us some fresh “Sand Bass” and they are still alive in a box.  Steve & Kevin struggle to kill them, Kevin even dons rubber gloves but then gets spiked by one.  John tells them they should be skinned alive and shows them by example.  Steve takes up the challenge and is soon surrounded by friendly pelicans.  At one point Ruth is able to hand feed them the leftovers.  Ruth & I have a hairdressing session in the afternoon taking it in turns to blow-dry and straighten each other’s.   We eat the fresh fish for tea and its quite good although very scrappy portions.  Just deciding what to do for the evening when we hear carol singers.  Starting at the far end of the beach people have been walking along standing outside the motorhomes singing and inviting the inhabitants to join the procession.  Most people are covered in Mexican blankets and carry candles so it’s very atmospheric.  The procession ends at John & Margaret’s and they provide chocolates and shortbread whilst neighbour Harold comes out with some wine.  A very festive and unique way to kick of Christmas.

COCOS BEACH 4

TUESDAY 25 DECEMBER – It’s a most beautiful calm morning for this idyllic location.  With K&R we walk to Posada Concepcion to use the Internet to contact people.  Unfortunately everyone in the village must have the same idea as the signal is poor and the quality of phone calls too bad for us to continue.  Whilst there we have a dip in the hot tub which Steve finds almost too hot.  So that’s it I’ve had my Christmas day bathing experience.  Sit out sunbathing until mid afternoon when we all gather up at John & Margaret’s for the Christmas dinner.  I’ve made a broccoli and cheese bake and everyone takes something along to go with the 2 huge turkeys.  There are about 30 people in all to enjoy the superb buffet.  We all have waterfront tables with a stunning view and it’s a perfect way to celebrate.  In true Christmas style we all eat too much and some of us also drink too much.  Round of the day by watching the Christmas episode of Darling Buds of May on DVD.

COCOS BEACH 5

WEDNESDAY 26 DECEMBER – Take a leisurely stroll along the beach to meet any new campers.  Quite a few families have arrived and one of them have come from Canada but used to live in Gisburn, near Keighley Yorkshire!  In return for Ruth cutting my hair I give her a massage and also one later on for neighbour Rikki who has a bad back.  Lawrence & Ricky have invited to 4 of us for tea and we enjoy a fish stir-fry.

COCOS BEACH 6

THURSDAY 27 DECEMBER –Join K&R for a rid in to Mulege to pick up a few supplies.  We have definitely been here too long as there are many people in town that we know.  It’s late afternoon when we get back so I do a quick stir-fry for us to share.

COCOS BEACH 7

FRIDAY 28 DECEMBER – Steve has an upset stomach so lingers in bed.  It’s another nice but windy day so I sit in the palapa.  Mid afternoon the gas truck comes round and is able to fill our tanks with butane (5.42 pesos litre, 54p).  Steve’s feeling a little better in the evening so we join K&R for cards and stew but he does complete the sick DOG (day off grog) day.  Kevin cranks up the generator in the evening and we have now figured that when one of us does this the other one might as well plug in the electric so we have power to watch a DVD.

COCOS BEACH 8

SATURDAY 29 DECEMBER – We’ve all been pretty lax in leaving things out overnight but this morning Kevin finds his walking boots have taken a hike – without him.  Even worse we hear that John’s outboard motor has also been stolen.  Luckily Kevin’s boots turn up later at the far side of the creek, they are not even wet and appear to have just been abandoned but unfortunately John is not so lucky in finding his engine.  It’s such a beautiful calm day that Ruth & I brave it into the water for a quick swim.  Late afternoon we take Whiskey for a walk to Escondido Beach whilst Steve & Kevin play backgammon.  There are many more campers there now and mostly the younger crowd with surf boards. A huge pit has been dug and they are just about to put a pig into it to cook on the coals. 

COCOS BEACH 9

SUNDAY 30 DECEMBER – We relocate a few miles north to Sanispac Beach.  Initially we park in the main area whilst Ruth & I take Whiskey for a walk to check out the track round the side of the bay.  It leads to many other camping areas including a more remote beach on the far side of the peninsula.  People tell us no one is camped there because of the wind but it feels fine to us.  By the time we have driven the motorhomes round the wind has got up and even positioning them as windbreaks it is still pretty wild but at least we are well away from the road.  Mid afternoon we hear a number of cars arriving tooting their horns and shouting out “cocktails”.  It’s a gang of about half a dozen cars with people from Cocos Beach who have hunted us down.  Evening at K&R’s where we share a chilli before playing cards.

SANISPAC BEACH

$7 (£3.50)

MONDAY 31 DECEMBER – For the first time in many days we have a quiet night, far away from the lorries with their air brakes.  It’s a bit of a blustery day so we do lots of reading before inviting K&R for morning coffee with homemade drop scones.  Steve goes out for a stroll and invites Ivan & Linda back for a chat.  Late afternoon we are spruced up ready for our evening out so move the vans to the main beach for security.  Ron & Louise from Cocos Beach have driven round to join us at Anas Restaurant.  Meals are being served at 6pm so we take our table and settle in for a long night.  The meal (90 pesos, £4.50) is an excellent Chilli ReyAna, long thing green peppers stuffed with soft cheese and baked topped off with chilli sauce, delicious.  The DJ cranks up the music and the party begins.  Unfortunately there is little of our kind of music but when there is we enjoy having a dance.  In fact it seems to suit the lads as they would rather just sit down and knock back a few Corona beers.  Celebrations begin at 10pm when New York pass into next year. We’ve been taking it in turns to nip back and check on the vans and when Louise doesn’t return from the last shift Ron goes over and tells us she is crashed out asleep.  We’re all full or life and ready for the celebrations.  At midnight they play Auld Lang Syne but no one seems to know what to do other than stand around so I gather our table together to link arms.  Total bill for the 6 of us, meals and many drinks (29 beers between the men) is 1315 pesos (£65).  Outside one of the campers provides an excellent firework display.  One last smoochy record and the bar closes leaving everyone to amble home to their motorhomes, or in the case of many to drive off in their cars. 

SANISPAC BEACH 2