200710

MONDAY 1 OCTOBER 2007 – Pick our route across country towards Reno and find a nice scenic one past many lakes.  It’s nice to drop down to desert and warmer weather once again.  Park up about 25 miles from Reno at Hallelujah Junction behind the petrol station.

HALLELUJAH JUNCTION

TUESDAY 2 OCTOBER – Wake to a cold and frosty morning and it takes a long time before the blown air heating warms us up enough to crawl out of bed.  After breakfast we both have hot showers then start the generator for me to dry my hair but it cuts out part way through.  Steve takes a quick look but can’t fix it so our next best bet is to set off driving with me drying my hair using the cab heating vents – an ideal recipe for the scarecrow style!  Reading the generator manual it sounds like it is a fuel problem as we are low on gas (waiting to fill up in Nevada where it is cheaper) and it runs from the same tank.  Cross into NEVADA most obviously a desert state but at least it is sunny and getting hot.  Arrive in Reno “the biggest little city” where you can stay on Sands car park free for 72-hours. It’s just a couple of blocks away from the strip so should be quieter.  We are not keen to gamble but want to find out what all the casinos offer by way of shows, meals and freebies.  Sands holds no appeal, unless you call $1 back for every $500 put in the slots a good deal!  Eldorado, Silver Legacy and Circus Circus are linked on their second floors and we begin in Silver Legacy, signing up gets you entry into a prize draw.  Circus Circus club gives you one entry into a 10-minute slots competition plus they do free circus shows every half hour.  Eldorado seems the best with free entry into a gold rush every 2-hours with a guaranteed prize each time, our first draw bags us both pens.  At the theatre they are showing Dancing Queen, an Abba musical that appeals to us.  En route to the ticket office a lady accosts us.  It’s obviously some sort of vacation club but for 90 minutes of our time we get free tickets to the Abba Show, a $50 gaming voucher and 3 nights accommodation in a resort, so sign up for the 2.30 presentation.  Back at Circus Circus for the slots competition we sit at a machine and continuously hit the play button for 10-minutes, utterly boring.  The top 5 scores of the session go through to a final tonight and luckily we don’t attain that status.  I don’t know about encouraging you to gamble we both think it is enough to put you off for life!  Back to Eldorado for a second gold rush (more pens) then their lunch buffet, $9.99 (£5) an incredible selection including Mexican, Mongolian, various Asian and roasts plus a huge dessert bar with no end of tempting looking gateaux.  The price includes non-alcoholic drinks so we spend well over an hour gorging and drinking ourselves silly.  The “Worldmark by Wyndham” presentation is without pressure and our saleslady soon realises it is not for us so lets us off with the briefest talk possible.  With vouchers for everything we opt for tomorrow nights show as there are better seats (a saving of $16.50, £8.25 each), use our $50 gambling voucher and get cash back then read that we must send off for our 3 night vacation.  A couple of hours well spent in our books.  Finally make it further along the strip; Fitzgerald’s give us $5 (£2.50) for signing up and a daily free prize, sewing kit for Steve and dice for me.  Exploring the rest of the strip makes us realise how much Reno is dying, no doubt due to the ability for other states to have casinos on the Indian Reservations.  Hop around for the rest of the day doing different prize draws and some Circus Circus shows.  End the day with a hoard of key rings, playing cards, dice, pens (handy to give to the kids in Mexico) and we are also $60 up on the day.  Just about worth all the working and noisy smoky casino torture!

RENO, SANDS CAR PARK

WEDNESDAY 3 OCTOBER – Having not been in the van during the day we failed to spot an underground train line running between the hotel and car park but find out about it at night when we get a tornado like whoosh then vibration.  Reno must have huge fire, crime or health problems as we hear numerous sirens throughout the night.  The local buses offer free wi-fi and the circuit by the casinos has a free loop so we spend ½ hour doing our Internet on the bus, weird.  Steve catches the first half of his Liverpool match at Eldorado but moves over to CalNev for the second half and their beer and hot dog $1.50 lunch.  Early evening we head off for a stroll and get 50c beers with taco chips in one of the bars before gong to the show.  The cast are all from London and they add a bit of other 80’s music in with the Abba. We enjoy all the music and the show is good but not outstanding.  The slightly amateurish performance makes us understand why they are now appearing here! 

RENO 2, SANDS

THURSDAY 4 OCTOBER – After picking up our daily freebies we ride the bus for the Internet but get off for a look around the area by the courthouse.  There are TV cameras around as the trial is going on of a local millionaire who shot, mutilated and murdered his wife and then shot a judge.  Visit Harrahs for an early lunch using the Thursday buy one get one free voucher.  Normally $10.99 (£5.50) each it’s excellent value with even more variety than Eldorado including steaks and prawns.  Think our stomachs must still be too full from over eating as we are soon struggling.  Leaving town we call in at Atlantis Casino, a massive affair with the car park over the road and a sky bridge with gambling and restaurant connecting it.  We spin a wheel for free play, Steve gets $7 and I get $3 but could have won up to $100.  There are lots of motorhomes on the car park and they say we can stay over and confirm that the disco music piped through the parking lot stops around 1am.  Nearby Peppermill is even more stunning.  The place is full of neon signs and the themed Ocean Restaurant is incredible.  The freebie is that any money lost on the slots up to $100 during the first hour is credited back to your gaming card for you to repeat the process.  I lose $5 in about 5 minutes but when it is credited back I manage to win $10 and cash in and leave.  Guess I am just not much of a gambler or maybe I have better things to do with my time than to spend all day in a casino.  Back on Atlantis car park we enjoy listening to the music, as it is mainly 60’s and 70’s with lots of soul.  In fact had we been parked up with people we knew we could easily have had a dance party between the vans.  Nice as the music is we are not impressed when it continues right through the night and would not have stayed had we known.  Maybe it did stop around 1am but if it did it started again soon after, so here I am at 4am typing my diary!

RENO 3, ATLANTIS CASINO CAR PARK

FRIDAY 5 OCTOBER – Manage to snatch another couple of hours of sleep before we leave.  It’s not a very nice morning and getting worse.  Snow is beginning to fall and we have to abandon our plan to drive up to Virginia City, the scene for Bonanza, as it is up in the mountains and we can’t even see them.  Arrive at Carson City and find free RV parking behind Golden Nugget casino.  I know we said never again but we can’t resist their lunchtime buffet at $6.75 (includes 10% discount for over 50’s).  There’s a smaller selection but it’s actually the nicest food we have had.  Spend the afternoon catching up on some sleep which we needn’t have done as we have a quiet night.

CARSON CITY 1, GOLDEN NUGGET CASINO

SATURDAY 6 OCTOBER – With the overnight temperature dropping to –5C we made the right decision not to push on to Yosemite, which is about 3000 feet higher.  There’s an Oktoberfest going on here today and a special party day at Cactus Jacks casino.  Begin at the casino where we enter a free poker machine contest then various draws of raffle tickets whilst we are having free drinks and dropping the odd $1 into the slots.  Walk out to the Oktoberfest but it’s really pathetic and takes about 5 minutes to roam around.  There’s a laundry in the motel opposite us so we take the chance to catch up on the washing before returning to Cactus Jacks.  They are now handing out free beer, champagne and other drinks like they are going out of fashion and also doing prize draws every 15 minutes.  By 7.30pm the smoke is getting to me so I head home but leave Steve enjoying his beer.  He returns at 10pm after they close complete with a huge bag of goodies that he has won including 30 cans of beer.

CARSON CITY 2, GOLDEN NUGGET CASINO CAR PARK 

SUNDAY 7 OCTOBER – We make an early start, as we want to visit Lake Tahoe then do the scenic drive to Yosemite.  Leaving Carson City the road climbs steeply to Lake Tahoe, one of the highest, deepest, coldest and clearest lakes in the world.  Cross the pass at Spooner summit by Spooner Lake then drop down towards Tahoe.  It’s very attractive and enhanced by the snow-capped peaks around it.  The main town of Stateline, the border into CALIFORNIA, is incredibly busy and touristy and we pass through quickly.  Turn off onto highway 89 and we are immediately rewarded by superb views.  The trees are just beginning to change colour so we see various shades of green through to orange with the occasional speck of red.  Our journey takes us up and over too many passes to mention but with heights up to 9,000 feet it is slow going.  The early snow combined with the autumn colours make it a breathtaking journey and it remains the same once we drop down to join main highway 395 heading south.  Having climbed up over a few more passes we turn a bend to find the magnificent site of Mono Lake below us.  In our opinion this is an even more impressive than Tahoe as it has two volcanoes in the middle of the blue water.  Drop down to the lake level and learn about the tufa formations at the visitor centre.  These are like white stalagmites that rise up out of the water and are formed by underground springs.  If we had more time we would have stayed and explored properly but we know that Tioga Pass over Yosemite was only re-opened this morning and may close again at any time leaving us stranded at this side of the Sierra Nevada.  Enter Yosemite National Park (pass saves us $20, £10) at the 9945-foot high Tioga Pass.  This is totally different scenery to what we have already come through with lots of small mountain lakes, alpine meadows but more unusually many huge granite rocks by the road, and I mean huge as in mini Ayers Rocks.  We must get over the pass before dark and it’s also a bit cold for hiking so we press on but take in most of the scenic viewpoints.  Finally drop down to join the road to Yosemite Valley and emerging from a tunnel we get our first dramatic view of it from above.  There are one-way roads in the valley and we just have time to do the short walk to the impressive single strand Bridal Falls that tumble off one of the high rocks.  The valley is surrounded by these massive rocks and very impressive.  Both the campgrounds show full but at the reservations centre they find us a spot.  Steve is shattered after a full day of hard driving so settles down straight after tea.

YOSEMITE VALLEY, UPPER PINES CAMPGROUND $20 (£10)

MONDAY 8 OCTOBER – It’s Columbus Day and a national holiday so the park remains busy but the good news is that the shuttle bus is still running.  After moving onto a day car park we take the bus and first check out the Ahwahnee Hotel opened in 1927.  It’s a very grand building with some really impressive rooms including a lounge with fireplaces big enough to stand in.  At the main visitor centre we watch a short film about the park then stroll around a reconstructed Ahwahnee Village “out back” before exploring the displays inside.  A short walk takes us to the Yosemite Falls trail and although the walk is good the 5^th highest falls in the world at 2,425 feet have completely dried up.  Bus it back to the van for lunch then catch the next shuttle to the end of the valley to hike up to Vernal Falls bridge.  It’s a really strenuous walk almost totally up hill but we do get great views down the valley and into a side gorge with a waterfall.  Reaching the bridge we get glimpses of the Vernal Falls, which are flowing, but not in full splendour.  Hiking out is considerably quicker and we are back in the van mid afternoon.  Vehicles our length is not allowed out through the western park gate so we must had south towards Wawona.  Climbing out of the valley we stop at a viewpoint just before the tunnel and get the most fantastic views back into Yosemite. Once again the road is winding, narrow and climbs and falls many times before reaching Wawona.  Here we take the shuttle bus to Mariposa Grove to see the Giant Sequoia trees.  The ones near the car park impress us but the bus driver tells us they are mere teenagers.  Hiking, up hill yet again, into the Grove we reach “The Grizzly Giant” estimated to be 1,800 years old.  California Tunnel Tree had a hole cut through the bottom in 1895 to allow horse drawn stages to pass through.  There are many other outstanding specimens and we are amazed at how different it is to when we saw the giant redwoods on the west coast.  Returning to the van we leave the park and a few miles further on find a turning to an area for off road motorbikes.  Early evening the car park is empty and will do us for the night.

JUST OUTSIDE YOSEMITE. MIAMI TRA

WEDNESDAY 10 OCTOBER – We need to gather info for our on going trip so made enquiries with some hosts in Fresno.  In Oakhurst we get wi-fi but find that the person we contacted has not been into his Hospitality Club account but does have a phone number.  We call David and he is absolutely amazed to hear from us as he is at the point of pressing the “enter” key on his computer to send us a message saying please come and visit – how uncanny is that?  It takes us an hour to get to Fresco, a big city by our standards with almost ½ million people.  David’s directions are good and we soon find his home.  He is disabled but works from home as a hypnotherapist.  Both he and his Labrador Pecan greet us and Harry is soon parked on the drive and hooked up to electric.  We chat to David and he tells us he has a client coming in the afternoon but in the meantime we are to make use of his facilities.  I’ve been waiting for a chance to put a colour on my hair and somehow we always find washing to be done so make the most of the opportunity.  Steve is having problems with his mouth at the moment; on top of a few ulcers he bit his tongue whilst chewing gum so added to his recent hard driving trips he is ready for an afternoon in bed.  In the evening I cook a pasta meal to share with David.  We learn that at 18-years old he dived into water that he knew should be deep enough but on that occasion a sand bank had appeared and he went straight into it and did damage to his spine.  A tragic accident but almost 40-years later he is making he best of the situation and lives alone with a full time and part time carer to help.  He’s an interesting guy, very cheerful and enjoys having guests to stay.  Knowing the area very well he is able to advise us not to bother with Kings Canyon and Sequoia National Park after seeing the same type of trees in Mariposa Grove.  He agrees Lake Isabella is nice but can’t give us a definitive answer on how to get there in a motorhome.

FRESNO

WEDNESDAY 10 OCTOBER – Although David’s carer arrives at 8am it’s almost 10.30am before he is ready for visitors but Steve appreciates the enforced lie in without me nagging him to get going!  Armed with some maps from David we have a better idea where to go and take off towards Bakersfield on the main highway.  It should only be 3 or 4 hours to Lake Isabella but everything we do seems to take longer than expected to the extent that in the single lane queue for gas at Flying J the pump breaks on the man in front of us!  At a rest area we make a final change on our planned journey as we confirm that the direct road is steep and winding almost all the way.  Opt for a more main route via Bakersfield swapping steep and winding for narrow and winding through a gorge.  It’s almost 5pm when we arrive at the Lake so take the first free camping site at Auxiliary Dam Recreation Area.  It’s a pleasant spot just below the dam but very open and exposed and difficult to get a level as you are actually on the banks of the dried out part of the receding lake and it is all sloping.  Just about to give up when we spot a track higher up with potential and manage to get level enough for the night.  It’s very nice looking over the dam where about a dozen motorhomes are camped along the shores.

LAKE ISABELLA, AUXILIARY DAM RECREATION AREA

$5 (£2.50) night May-September or $35 (£17.50) for the season but FREE in winter

THURSDAY 11 OCTOBER – Pleasant as it is here it’s too exposed for us to have a chance of stripping off but we know of a few other free camping areas along the lakeshore.  Sure enough just a couple of miles further on we find South Fork Marina where no one else is camping and there are just a few day visitors.  At the far end of the site there are some high bushes giving us protection from the wind and a modicum of privacy.  The toilet block is open and there’s a fresh water supply so we are well pleased.  In no time at all we have set up camp and stripped off to sunbathe in the front of the van.  It’s a very scenic spot and we are both happy campers.  By late afternoon everyone else has gone and we have the place to ourselves to sit out and enjoy.

LAKE ISABELLA 2, SOUTH FORK RECREATION AREA

FRIDAY 12 OCTOBER – Wake to a much stronger wind, shame how the really nice places always seem to have a downside. No matter as we have lots of odd jobs to do and this is the perfect opportunity.  We’ve had a leak under the shower tray since day 1 and logic tells me that the Moturis mechanic piling silicone on top of the plug isn’t the answer.  Having unscrewed the plug fitting we put some special rubber putty stuff around the hole under the plug and then screw the plug back down onto it.  In theory creating a better seal but time will tell.  The days goes really quickly in between pottering around, reading and playing cards but the wind never drops and in fact we get a couple of brief showers in the evening.

LAKE ISABELLA 3, SOUTH FORK RECREATION AREA

SATURDAY 13 OCTOBER – Get up early to make a decision about the day and there is no wind at all but by the time we have had breakfast it is quite breezy so we decide to press on.  Once again we have a high climb on a winding road to get over to the main 395 highway.  This is the one we came down to enter Yosemite and signs tell us that once again Tioga Pass is closed.  At the dried up but attractive Olancha Lake we turn off towards Death Valley and immediately see a coyote cross the road.  True to form the road makes a steep climb over the mountains but we get fine views of Rainbow Canyon from Father Crowley peak before dropping down to a desolate valley.  However this is not Death Valley and we must make another climb up over Towne Pass, 4956’ before getting our first glimpse of Death Valley on our descent.  At least the barren scenery is made more attractive by many colourful rock formations.  Half way down the hill Emigrant Camp is a free campground with fine views of the valley although no shade at all.  Having parked the van to create our own shade we set about having lunch, taken on the picnic table with a stunning view.  In the evening we join fellow campers Bob & Linda who invite us over to taste some of their recently acquired wine.  This evolves into a long session with us sharing their beef stew then me providing after dinner hot drinks and snacks.  We manage to help each other as they have spent lots of time in Mexico but now want to know more about travelling full time in a motorhome and in other countries. 

DEATH VALLEY NATIONAL PARK, EMIGRANT CAMPGROUNDS

SUNDAY 14 OCTOBER – Once we drop down to the hill to Stovepipe Wells we are at sea level and the road drops further putting us below sea level as we cross Death Valley by some sand dunes.  Beside the road is an area called Devils cornfield but it looks more like mini haystacks.  Head north up the edge of the valley where the minimal vegetation decreases and the few boulders give way to nothing but flat gravely land.  Arrive at Death Valley Ranch more commonly known as Scotty’s Castle.  During our $11 (£5.50) 1-hour visit we learn all about the buildings intriguing history based on a man called Scotty who conned, amongst many others, the owner Albert Johnson but they ended up becoming friends.  The “holiday home” is magnificent in Spanish style.  Built in the early 1900’s it was way ahead of its time with solar power and other energy efficient systems.  Sadly the project was never completed and a magnificent swimming pool remains unfinished.  Retracing our steps we stop for lunch at Mesquite campground but it’s not great so we continue to Furnace Creek and the parks main visitor centre.  Park fees of $20 (£10) or your pass must be shown here and there are good displays and a film.  At the nearby, below sea level, campground we get a spot next to Bob & Linda to carry on where we left off last night.

DEATH VALLEY NATIONAL PARK, FURNACE CREEK CAMPGROUND

$12 (£6)

MONDAY 15 OCTOBER – Not only are we getting some warm evenings but it also stays warm all night now.  Yesterday the ranger disappointed us with the fact that many of the parks sights and hikes cannot be accessed in motorhomes over 25’ long.  We are now reduced to doing just one hike and one viewpoint but begin in earnest at Golden Canyon.  It impresses us immediately with the early morning sun highlighting the rock colours.  Remains of an old road can still be seen but we can’t imagine where the road may have gone anyway as the canyon soon becomes very narrow.  A mile or so along we reach the point with a view of “Red Cathedral” and it was definitely worth the walk.  At the end of the trail we meet Mike & Laurie and begin chatting.  On a mini holiday they leave from Las Vegas tonight but plan on whizzing through the park to do the other highlights before leaving and offer us a ride.  Back in the car park we stash their big suitcase in our van in order to use the back seat of their rented convertible Mustang.  It’s great fun driving through the dessert with the warm wind in your hair.  Artists Palette reveals the most colourful rocks in the park and is really amazing.  Devils Golf Course is a bit of a let down as it is just a very rough area of salt cones.  The hike into Natural Bridge is also good and beyond it we reach the end of the trail at the bottom of a beautiful dried up waterfall the base of which is green and red shiny rock.  The others clamber up it to explore a little further but my shoes have slippery soles.  I’m glad I don’t do it when first they report little to see and then Laurie has great difficulty getting back down the rocks.  Return for a picnic lunch beside Harry then drive in convoy to the base of Dante’s View where we get back in the car for the steep climb to the summit.  Views in both directions of the valley are superb and we are directly above Badwater, the lowest point in the park at 282’ below sea level.  We’re very sad to part company as we feel like we have known each other for ages but may catch up with them again in Washington DC where they live.  They drive off into the distance with us chugging along behind. Pahrump is the first town over the border in NEVADA and has a few casinos but more interestingly for us a campground at a winery that offers 3 nights free stay and a meal in exchange for doing a 90-minute presentation.  It’s very late when we arrive but our initial reaction is poor as the sites are all on gravel in a row like a car park. Drive the 3 miles back to town to check out a few casinos but don’t stay long, no point in getting casino burn out with Las Vegas coming up!  PAHRUMP 1, CHARLESTON PEAK RESORT

SUNDAY 16 SEPTEMBER – It’s noticeably colder when we wake up as could be expected when sailing in Glacier Bay National Park.  A Parks Ranger and a naturalist board the ship and give commentary from the Crows Nest whilst we explore the area.  The Bay is surrounded by numerous glaciers in various stages of recession but once we turn into Johns Hopkins Inlet we see better examples and are finally confronted by the 120’ high foot of the John Hopkins Glacier itself.  Surrounded by icebergs complete with basking seals it is amazing.  I brave it out on the bow, it’s drizzling but the hot pea soup helps to cheer the spirits.  Few ships are allowed into the park (most cruise liners are too big) so we are alone and it’s wonderful to be beside the glacier for 1-hour eating lunch whilst watching and listening for signs of the ice calving.  We’re both feeling the effects of over indulgence so I make use of the “subway” style sandwich bar but Steve can’t resist the main hot foot buffet.  Back track out of Glacier Bay and take the opportunity to have an afternoon nap before catching the 3pm “Oceans Thirteen” movie.  It’s a chef’s special evening and we all have chefs’ hats to wear.  The meal is served procession style with the waiters all dancing around the restaurant.  They just about finish their show when we hit rough seas and are soon being tossed around; so much so that we see someone has recycled their dessert on the carpet outside the restaurant.  Australian comedy magician “James Galea” does the early evening show but has to tailor his performance to take into account the rolling ship but is good non the less.  A chocolate extravaganza by the pool rounds off the evening.  I just about manage to fit in a few fruits coated under the chocolate fountain.

ZAANDAM 5, GLACIER BAY NP

MONDAY 17 SEPTEMBER – After a rough night at sea we arrive late in Ketchikan, Alaska’s first city.  Our hosts Dave & Jacquie are waiting for us and we are soon getting acquainted whilst heading up the coast in their car.  They have a motorhome and spent last winter in Mexico so we get lots of good info.  At Totem Bight park we meet up with their friends Larry & Cathy and wander around together.  The gift shop is a revelation with a back room full of stuffed animal parts and old guns, not in glass cases but just lying around including one from the 1600’s.  Also in the shop is an old car but behind the store and down by the beach we discover a whole garage full of vintage motors.  Walk along the shore to the beach, a narrow slither of grey slate gravel.  There are some amazing long pieces of seaweed and strange creatures in the rock pools.  Clambering up the bank into the park we see excellent examples of totem poles and a traditional wooden meetinghouse.  Larry & Cathy leave us when we return to the city with Dave & Jacquie.  En route to Ward Lake we see a large back bear beside the road but he’s to quick for a photo and hastens off into the bushes.  Ketchikan is inaccessible by land so we are surprised to see so many RV’s and camping spots.  Dave drives us on the city by pass for views then we head into town to explore Creek Street.  The attractive street has wooden houses hanging out over the creek and was once the red light district.  Today people are drawn here to see all the salmon in the river; at this time of year there are almost as many dead on the rocks and it smells terrible.  Most of these salmon are on their last legs and a seal taking a chunk out of its back, yuk, has hastened one along.  Enjoy a lunch of the local halibut and chips before Dave & Jacquie leave us. Complete our tour of Ketchikan with a wander around town and a visit to a few shops.  There are 2 other ships in port and both the Norwegian Star and the Celebrity liner dwarf ours.  Back on board there’s time for a nap before our formal night.  Amazingly our clothes still fit us so perhaps we haven’t gained as much weight as we thought!  Learn from our fellow diners that there was a nasty accident at the port today.  Amphibious Ducks were on the dock to take people on tours and ran over a 59-year old passenger from the Norwegian Star and killed her.  Dessert of the day is baked Alaska served after a ceremonious march around the dining room by waters with serving trays and sparklers.  “Spiderman 3” movie keeps us entertained afterwards and we are pleased to stay awake as the vast majority of the other people nod off. 

ZAANDAM 6, KETCHIKAN

TUESDAY 18 SEPTEMBER – We wake late as we are back in CANADA and clocks have gone forwards 1-hour (BST – 8 hours).  It’s a day at sea so only shipboard activities to occupy us.  There have been on going problems with a faulty alarm outside our room meaning we have had interrupted sleep for the whole cruise.  The ships was full so we could not move to another cabin therefore they offer us compensation and part of it is to take lunch in the Pinnacle Grill without paying the $15 (£7.50) surcharge.  We opt to sit with the ladies from a nearby cabin who have had the same problem.  One of them has sailed 8 times with HAL and says this is the worst trip she has had!  At 3pm we go to formal afternoon tea, today Indonesian themed and very nice too.  At our evening meal our waiter “Rizal” hears us saying that it is Steve’s birthday already on UK time, shortly after he appears with a birthday cake and we get the usual serenade.  Watch “Premonition” at the cinema before our last show – a compilation of all the acts. 

ZAANDAM 7, AT SEA

WEDNESDAY 19 SEPTEMBER- Steve’s 53^rd birthday which gets off to an early start with our alarm call.  Leave the ship at 8.20am and make great connections with the skytrain to arrive back at Janice’s in New Westminster at 9.30am.  She has another couch surfing guest Eric, from America, staying.  Janice decides to give work a miss in order to spend the day with us all so we pile into Eric’s car and head down to White Rock beach.  It’s a glorious day and it’s nice to be out in the hot sun again.  Take lunch of fish & chips at a café overlooking the ocean before walking along the pier.  Auntie Joan used to live here and her ashes were scattered from the pier so it’s quite a poignant walk for me.  Next we go up to Iona Beach via the airport with another fix of lying back watching the planes fly overhead.  Although very near the city Iona Beach feels quite remote and has lots of wildlife.  Heading back we detour to catch the last of the sun in a park on the banks of the river. Janice invites her friends Adam & Darren to join us in celebrating Steve’s birthday with a curry meal that I cook.  An unexpected but most enjoyable day. Eric is keen to check out the Vancouver chicks and heads off out when we are all ready to go to bed.

NEW WESTMINSTER

THURSDAY 20 SEPTEMBER – Eric returns in the early hours and we all have a bit of a lie in.  Janice has to go out and do a few things so I take the opportunity of doing my post cruise washing and catching up with E-mails.  She gets back mid afternoon and Eric drives us all over to White Rock back to our motorhome.  Eric & Janice seem very impressed and keen to join us in it later.  No sooner have they left than Raoul arrives to pick us up.  He is another host who offered us accommodation but didn’t have space to park the van.  Having been to school in Stafford England he expressed an interesting in meeting so has invited us to his place for a chat.  His wife Flo is also English and over a sandwich and coffee we exchange views and info during a lovely evening.

WHITE ROCK

FRIDAY 21 SEPTEMBER – Time to hit the road again and we point Harry south towards the sun.  The truck border crossing has been recommended but we want to go into the first US town of Blaine so go for the Peace Arch border.  Big mistake.  There are 3 lanes of traffic, the right one for locals with fast track NEXUS passes, the rest for everyone else.  Having crawled along for about 1 hour we reach a point just before the customs booths where vehicles over 12’ high are directed into the NEXUS lane to avoid the low canopy ahead.  We believe we are 12’ exactly but not keen to take chances so do a last minute lane change.  At the booth the customs officer queries whey we did this and in spite of our explanation about the signs he says we would have fitted under.  He seems to be inferring we switched with ulterior motives and slaps an orange sticker on our windscreen and orders us to pull over and enter the customs offices.  We have to go in a long line and read on the orange sticker that we have a NEXUS violation!  Standing in the queue I am not sure whether they are going to fine us or what but tell Steve that I will deal with it, as he is already getting stroppy.  We understand that the American officers can refuse you entry without any reason at all so we must be humble.  Luckily we get a sympathetic interviewer who questions us then stamps our passports and actually thanks us for taking that lane as he has had people get stuck in his with big motorhomes.  We are now back in USA in WASHINGTON state and proceed to the small town of Blaine to get fuel and do some banking.  Just north of Bellingham we have been invited to visit a host who lives at Lummi Indian Reservation, he is not a Native American but their home is on Indian land.  Tom meets us a nearby casino and leads us to his beautiful waterfront home on Puget Sound.  After a couple of chainsaw modifications to the driveway trees we soon have Harry settled onto a perfect RV spot complete with power and dump point.  Tom’s retired but his wife Kathy works from home, writing books to teach teachers how to recognise maths skills in youngsters, but breaks off to chat to us.  It’s quite a miserable cold and rainy day so we all take an afternoon snooze then join them for a ride into Bellingham for a Mexican meal.  It’s a nice journey in, mainly along the waterfront, and in town we are confronted by a rally against war amongst other things.  The restaurant is café style but the food is good and we find that we have suddenly regained our appetites. 

NR BELLINGHAM

SATURDAY 22 SEPTEMBER – After a stormy night we are pleased to wake to a fine day.  We breakfast with Tom & Kathy then spend lots of time chatting.  This year

Tom has had a motorcycle trip around Europe and another to Alaska whilst Kathy has stayed at home working.  He’s keen to travel much more but can’t persuade Kathy to pack in work yet, sounds very familiar to us.  Early afternoon they suggest a drive pit and begin with a visit to the Farmer Market in Bellingham where we pick up snacks for lunch.  Afterwards Tom drives us along Chuckanut Drive round the coast of Puget Sound with superb views out towards the many islands.  Wind up in the attractive town of Anacortes with some interesting cut out murals.  The bridge at Deception Point spans the turbulent waters of a gorge deep below and in his childhood Tom completed a dare to walk across under the bridge. Crossing the bridge leads us on to Whidbey Island where Kathy’s Jannan & her husband Jack live.  Pick up at pizza on the way back and eat it whilst watching a movie until almost midnight.  What a great day out.

NR BELLINGHAM 2

SUNDAY 23 SEPTEMBER – Late morning we join Tom for a ride out to Costco, a kind of bulk buy supermarket for members only.  Most things are in too large a quantity for us but we can’t resist their bulk meat packs to freeze.  There is a café in the front of the store with incredibly cheap snacks, $1.50 (75p) for a hot dog and refillable soda drink.  In the evening neighbours Jim & Hui-Ying and Toms motorcycling friend Joe join us all for a meal.  Afterwards we all settle down to watch Ewan McGregor’s epic journey “The long way round” on DVD.  Sadly we only have time to view the first 3 episodes.

NR BELLINGHAM 3

MONDAY 24 SEPTEMBER – Kathy leaves early for work then Tom joins us heading south so that we can drop him off in Seattle to pick up his motorbike.  I5 is an easy drive but busy and boring.  By passing Seattle it has 7 lanes in each direction with an expressway in the middle and still it is busy.  At one of the rest areas we stop for a free coffee and a man in the booth grabs our attention.  He has an assortment of old implements and challenges people to guess their use.  We fail miserably but have great fun in the process.  Cross into OREGON State at Portland and easily follow directions to our host Rita’s house.  She lives in a northwest suburb with her son Sasha and we can park on the street outside her home.  They welcome us with a glass of wine followed by take away pizza.  Rita spent 4-years living in Romania and has also been on the Trans Siberian train so we have lots of questions for her.  She is only the second owner of her house; her original land sale deeds are signed by Abraham Lincoln himself.  Before retiring she briefs us on how to get into Portland and what to do.

PORTLAND

TUESDAY 25 SEPTEMBER – It’s a short walk to the bus stop where a $4.25 (£2.15) day pass can be bought on board (correct change only).  Next we change to the Max streetcar (tram) to take us right into the centre at Pioneer Courthouse Square where the tourist office is situated.  There are no outstanding highlights mentioned for Portland but we begin exploring on foot and find many nice buildings.  Taking the streetcar out to Moody and Gibbs junction we are able to take the tram (cable car) up to the hospital, $4 (£2).  Opened this year it saves hospital staff and patients a 20-minute drive up to the hospital.  By default it has become an unknown tourist attraction giving fine views over the city and beyond.  Within the hospital there is a corridor full of art and a viewing patio with sculptures.  Back in the city we enjoy the $7.95 (£4) buffet lunch at Indian House before making our way, via a number of fountains, to the waterfront.  For some reason we both have bad headaches so after a brief exploration of the seedy feeling Chinatown we return to the van.  Get back at 3.30pm and both head to bed.  Wake up around 7.30pm when Rita returns but both still feel bad so make our apologies and return to bed.

PORTLAND 2

WEDNESDAY 26 SEPTEMBER – We’ve managed to get Harry booked in for a service at Gresham RV Center so set the alarm to enable us to get there just after 8am.  We’ve waited until Oregon as they have no state tax but also this dealer only charges $70 hour as opposed to $90 at most other places.  They are amazingly efficient and quick and we are soon paying the $77.72 (£38.50) bill and ready to leave.  We’ve been recommended the Columbia Gorge scenic by way and easily find it off the I84.  After a steep climb we do get superb views and enjoy exploring the unusual octagonal Vista House.  The road was built about 90 years ago to take in the views and combine much of the natural scenery including many waterfalls.  A short walk from the road takes us to the narrow high drop of Latourell Falls.  Further on Wahkeena Falls are wider and different again.  Backing out of the angled parking spot Harry has his first rebellious moment when he kicks up his heels and clips a car.  We stop immediately and discover minimal damage to ourselves as it is the bumper that has done the damage but the car has a big of a ding in the bumper and rear corner.  There is no one around so we write out all our contact and insurance details and a passer by also makes notes.  Final scenic stop Multnomah Falls, the highest at 620’ and very attractive.  It’s lunchtime so we detour to Bonneville Lock & Dam.  Before we can enter a security guard checks inside the motorhome saying it’s a precaution since 9 11.  Park up by the river for lunch and decide we should phone our insurance company.  We’ve just fried chips for lunch and can’t wash up, as the oil in the pan is too hot to drain so head off walking towards the visitor centre.  We are soon stopped and told that it is forbidden to walk around the area and we must return to our vehicle, seems to us that people are becoming a bit paranoid about security.  Anyway we do as we are told then drive to the visitor centre and phone our insurance company.  After giving our policy number we find they ask us most frustrating questions but miss the obvious but eventually we get them to understand the situation.  Within the visitor centre we see a fish ladder through a glass viewing area and listen to a ranger explanation about the salmon life.  At Hood River we had hoped to overnight at Wal-Mart but they have numerous signs forbidding camping and overnight parking.  A car park attendant tells us people dumping waste in the car park has brought on the ban.  Pick up the Mount Hood road with fine views of the snow-strewn mountain.  Just about resigned to going onto a pay campground when we see a seemingly abandoned forest camp right by the river.  We are now above the snow line so wrap up for a cold night.

SHERWOOD FOREST CAMP NR MOUNT HOOD 

THURSDAY 27 SEPTEMBER – It was very cold in the night so although this is a great free camp we opt to press on.  Get more fine views of Mount Hood as we continue through the attractive forest with colourful autumn foliage.  Cross the 45^th parallel, half way between the equator and North Pole, and then drop down towards Madras.  We could easily be in the other Madras it is so hot, in the 80’s.  This area is a thin slither in the middle of Oregon known as the low desert but still surrounded by forest with snow capped volcanic mountains on the skyline.  Pause to use the Internet for following up the insurance claim.  Stop for lunch at P.S. Ogden overlook a splendid viewing area of the gorge with Crooked River in the bottom.  It’s a very short detour to Smith Rock State Park, $3 day fee (free with pass).  This area is a real geologic wonderland full of staggering rock formations in different colours and textures.  Make our way to the rim of the gorge and descend to the trailheads below.  We cross the river and take the trail to our left along its banks.  Rock climbers favour this area and we often stop to watch them.  Spot a couple of deer in our path and Steve thinks he sees a rattlesnake but it’s too quick for him to photograph.  Make our way around the rocks to the point where we view aptly named Monkey Rock.  You can climb up over the rocks at this point to shorten the walk but we favour backtracking to complete our 2-hour hike.  Wow what an unexpectedly impressive area that we knew nothing about until we arrived in Oregon.  Nearby is the town of Redmond complete with a brand new Wal-Mart where we can stay overnight and of course shop.  We read in the newspaper the Wal Mart opened 16 new stores last week so they are growing fast. 

REDMOND – WAL-MART.

FRIDAY 28 SEPTEMBER – We both sleep badly, not only can we hear the trains rumbling past but also we are close enough to feel them.  It turns quite cold and we finally get up to a rainy morning with the temperature down to 45F.  The next big town is Bend where we plan to spend some time but traffic is horrendous and signs for the visitor centre and library are non-existent.  Coupled with a pathetic town map we end up driving the Summit Road but at least get some good views and an indication of the spreading of the fastest growing city in Oregon.  When we do find the visitor centre there is no parking anywhere near for a motorhome.  Wal-Mart was our planned overnighter but becomes a brief lunch stop as it is sandwiched between 2 mains roads and Bend has truly drive us round the bend and onwards.  South of town is Lava Lands Visitors Centre, $5 (£2.50) for a 3 day pass for all parts of the Newberry National Volcanic Monument Park, but free with our annual pass.  We do the walk through the volcano and get fine views of the recently snow capped surrounding mountains.  This is the place where the astronauts came in 1964 and 1966 to test their moon landing gear and it certainly looks like a moonscape.  A little further down highway 97 is Lava Cave.  Armed with our torches we set out to explore the 1-mile long lava tube cave.  After a steep descent we are in a cool tunnel and this narrows and lowers as we venture further.  Signboards point out rock falls and the point where we pass under the main road.  Unfortunately we arrived here late and must be out of the cave by 4.30pm so don’t have time to walk to the end where we believe you are doubled over to keep walking.  However we have very much enjoyed the bit we have seen.  Again armed with the poor local maps we make a number of mistakes before reaching the National Forest Big River campgrounds near Sunriver.  It’s a very pleasant small spot on the banks of the river and should be quite peaceful.  Needless to say we have another cold night.

NR SUNRIVER, NATIONAL FOREST BIG RIVER CAMPGROUND $6 ($3 with pass).

SATURDAY 29 SEPTEMBER – It is so cold that I get up in the night and put the heating on and re heat my hot water bottle.  We are not the least bit surprised to find frost at the roadside when we make our morning departure.  Newberry National Volcanic Monument main park is our destination and as the road climbs higher we enter an area covered by the recent snow.  It’s a very short walk to Paulina Falls (pronounced pull eye nar) and they look really pretty surrounded by the snow clad fir trees.  A bit further and higher up in the park we turn off along the lightly snow covered road to the Big Obsidian Flow.  The moment we start hiking we are impressed by the shiny black glass rocks around us.  Reach the first viewpoint where we speak to a couple of lads who recognise our English accent.  One of them is a Liverpool fan working over here so football is the language for the next 5 minutes.  Climbing higher we are alone on the track and enjoy the solitude and most fantastic views enhanced by the clear blue sky and early morning sunshine.  It really is spectacular and we take way too many photos. Returning from the loop walk we meet many more latecomers starting the hike.  The road ends at East Lake, a great coffee stop overlooking the second lake.  Heading out of the park we check out Paulina Lake but it is not so nice.  We can’t find McKay campground but stop by the road for lunch before returning to the main highway south.  Just north of Chemult we turn off to Walt Haring Snopark and free camping site but can’t believe how busy it is.  Steve spots a gathering of people around a carcass hung from a tree and goes over to find out more.  Apparently today is the first day of the 10-day deer-hunting season.  People enter a kind of lottery and if they are lucky they get a permit to hunt in a certain area.  These people set out in the early hours of this morning and soon killed the small deer that they are now butchering.  It’s mid afternoon and quite warm in the sun so we make it our stop for the day. 

NR CHEMULT, WALT HARING SNOPARK

SUNDAY 30 SEPTEMBER – It’s a bit like the Wacky Races when the hunters all rev up their quad bikes to head off into the forest but it quietens down soon after.  Klamath Falls drives us round the bend with poor signs to the visitor centre and everything else for that matter.  End up on the wrong side of town, finding a visitor centre that doesn’t have the info we need then doing a big cross country to get back on track.  Just over the state line in CALIFORNIA we reach Lava Beds National Monument ($10 but inc in pass).  The road goes through the park to the visitor centre but en route we stop at Fleener Chimneys, towering piles of rocks with big holes in the centre.  It’s only a short walk for us to explore Balcony Cave, 885m, with a balcony lava flow running along a ledge beside the tunnel.  Adjacent is Boulevard Cave, 231m, a very low cave with a smooth floor that gets lower the further you crawl.  We only have our small torches so don’t venture too far but enjoy the part we see.  It seems amazing to us that in a country like America, where everyone sues for the least little thing, you are allowed to amble around and explore this potentially very dangerous area alone.  The visitor centre do a free loan of flashlights and with them we set out on the cave loop.  One of the least challenging Mushpot Cave, 235m, is the tourist show cave.  Lit up walkways and interpretive signs make it easy to learn about these lava tubes.  Bump hats are recommended for the more difficult caves but we make do with our woolly hats!  Moderately challenging Golden Dome, 679m, begins as a single tube but then becomes a figure of eight making it easy to get lost if you don’t stay aware.  Walking is difficult on a river of lava rocks but there is only one small section to duck under.  The nearby Garden Bridges are attractive areas where tunnels have caved in leaving mini gorges with lots of bridges.  Hopkins Chocolate Cave, 428m, is in the “most challenging” class so we only explore a short way to admire the dripping plain, milk and white chocolate rivulets coming down the wall – just like a chocolate fountain.  We crouch to go through a low narrow gap divided by a rock like a giant boot coming through the roof.  On the other side it looks like you are emerging from a nostril, in fact exploring these caves feels rather like you are going through the arteries in a body!  Sunshine Cave, 142m, requires a bit of stooping but has a couple of collapsed areas with vegetation.  Sentinel, 1000m, is one of the least challenging caves and the only one with two entrances and seems less interesting than the others. Drop the flashlights back at the visitor centre, as they must be returned by 4.30pm.  Pause to watch their video about the Modoc tribe and the wars fought on this land as well as about the lava caves.  Double back to the recommended Skull Cave, 177m, named after the numerous animal plus 2 human skulls found when it was first explored.  It’s an enormous cave with huge rocks everywhere but an easy flat path and ladders to guide us through and down to the lower level cave with its perpetual ice floor.  One of the caves we missed on the way in, Merrill Cave, also used to have an ice floor at the bottom of the cave, so big that people used to floodlight it and use it as a skating rink.  Heading back on the side road we can’t resist the sign to Big Painted Cave and Symbol Bridge.  It’s almost a mile to hike in to the cave and the pictographs are very poor so we give up on Symbol Bridge.  A shame as everything else we have done has been brilliant.  About 5 miles from the park we see a road junction and as we are now in the Modoc National Forest we know it is legal to free camp.  Take a right turn for ½ mile to reach a lovely clearing surrounded by pine trees.  I calculate we must have walked about 7 or 8 km through caves so reward our feet with a nice soak before tackling our evening meal.  An excellent park and the best of the many lava caves that we have seen. 

MODOC NATIONAL FOREST, 5m SE LAVA NATIONAL MONUMENT