200711

THURSDAY 1 NOVEMBER 2007- Set out on our morning walk in the other direction and as soon as we have telephone signal we get a text message.  Mum has been in hospital and we need to phone Netty.  We don’t have a strong signal to make calls and there is no phone in the small village but we find a homeowner who says we can use our calling card and his landline.  It turns out Mum inadvertently took a wrong tablet and it acted badly with some of the other ones she takes.  She ended up vomiting blood and was taken to hospital where they found out it had caused a peptic ulcer.  The good news is that she is now home and starting to recover.  Return along the shore noting just how few vehicles are left.    We’ve been watching a bit of TV in the evenings and now conclude that of the numerous commercials the vast majority fall into 3 categories, car sales, food or drugs. The thing that amuses us the most are the warning given with all the medication especially the one for depression that has umpteen possible side effects including making you feel suicidal!   However maybe if this happened in England then Mum would have been aware of the lethal concoction and would not have had the “bad” tablets in the first place.

LAKE MEAD 6, STEWARTS POINT

FRIDAY 2 NOVEMBER – It’s a very windy day with gusts that blow the sand around.  Steve chats to a fisherman and learns more about the area.  End up having to put the awning in as it is flapping in the wind but this means we don’t have shady area out of the wind so end up inside. 

LAKE MEAD 7, STEWARTS POINT

SATURDAY 3 NOVEMBER – With the wind even stronger we are assisted in our decision to move on.  Mum texts to say she is feeling a bit better and has been up town on the bus and walked around with a stick.  She is due for a hip replacement in January and I am very pleased to hear that she is using a stick in the interim.  Back on the main road we double back about 1 mile to check out Blue Springs, a little oasis in the desert.  The pools where the fish are supposed to be are dried up and following the warm stream back to the source we find it is almost completely overgrown.  Just a few miles further along we turn off to Valley of Fire State Park, $6 (£3).  The early morning sun shows the rocks to perfection and it’s easy to see how the park got its name.  From the east entrance a short walk takes us to Elephant Rock and from the right angle we can see a beast with a trunk.  A drive to Seven Sisters where we see people dressed in Americana including a Statue of Liberty.  There’s a table with drinks and we learn that a charity bike race is about to come through.  Climbing for a view of the rocks we also watch the leaders pass by.  The visitor centre has some interesting exhibits but the side road behind it leads to the parks showcase areas.  Driving on a narrow road between bright red rocks is impressive in itself but the walk to “Mouse’s Tank” reveals excellent petroglyphs and the natural water tank that sustained a renegade Indian who hid out here in the 1890’s.  We see lots of young children and adults with buckets and find out that a cub pack has struck a deal with the park. In exchange for free camping they are going to do the hikes and remove any modern graffiti, usually etched into the soft sandstone. At Rainbow Vista we catch a wedding in progress.  The wedding company have arrived in a luxury motorhome complete with photographer and priest.  The young couple have no guests but get a beautiful setting for their ceremony followed by a wedding breakfast in the desert.  We make the 1-¾ mile hike to Valley of Fire overlook and find it quite hard going.  As with the last walk you are trudging through soft sand and with little shade to keep you cool.  In this instance we feel that the view was good but not worth the walk whereas the vista from the parking lot is excellent.  The road continues through undulating land with superb scenery and comes to an end at “White Domes”.  The White Domes Loop Trail is 1.25 miles long and takes us past a number of points of interest.  It starts over a large sand dune but the magnificent multi coloured rocks at the side spur us on.  Over the years the wind has blown different colours of sand onto the dunes and in many areas water and pressure have changed these into the superb rainbow rocks that are enhanced by the mid day sun.  Bands of yellow, grey, green, orange and pink can all clearly be seen.  Many films have been made in the park starting with the Raquel Welch 100 years BC right through to Transformers filmed just this year.  Nowadays the film crew are not allowed to leave anything with lasting effect on the park but that was not always the case and we pass an area with walls remaining from a set.  Slot canyon is very narrow and has many features carved by the water, often several feet deep that tears through after a heavy rainstorm.  The camera is on permanent stand by and we take dozens of shots, as we are so impressed.  Back track to the main park road then continue towards Atlatl Rock.  Here a staircase has been made to get you close to the petroglyphs.  The nearby beehives are a bit of a let down but overall the park has exceeded our expectations.  Leave by the Lake Mead entrance then turn towards Overton.  A few miles further on we drive over the top of a hill to suddenly see motorhomes parked up in all directions.  Select a spot by the top of a canyon with fine views towards Overton.  This area is open for free camping from 1^st October to 1^st April and with no stay limit many of the snowbirds are here for the duration.  Unfortunately the beauty is spoilt by a noisy nearby generator running until 11pm

NR OVERTON

SUNDAY 4 NOVEMBER – Last night was the end of daylight saving time in Nevada so the clocks went back an hour but as we are heading into Arizona tomorrow so won’t bother.  In Overton we do a bit of grocery shopping and internet.  Apparently the people in the town love it when all the winter motorhomes arrive, as it is good for business.  Once we hit the freeway Steve realises how bad the wheel wobble is so we will overnight in Mesquite and get it checked tomorrow.  There’s free camping in the Oasis casino parking lot.  We are amazed to learn that first time sign up of their members club gets you a free nights stay, no catches you don’t even have to pay the taxes.  You also get a coupon book with vouchers for 2 for 1 buffet amongst other things. It’s already lunchtime (well for us at least) and the champagne buffet brunch is being served so $10.99 (£5.50) buys us both a great meal.  Along with breakfast foods there is also a salad bar with prawns and crab, a full dinner menu including steaks cooked to order and unlimited champagne.   An hour or so later we are replete and walk over to check out our room.  We have a king sized bed and all the usual motel facilities plus parking for Harry directly opposite.  Once settled in we set out to explore the adjoining area.  As a border town near to the non-gambling state of Utah there are many casinos.  Across the road Casa Blanca is part of the same group as Oasis but have their own separate members club and also offer a free night in their hotel so we may take that up for tomorrow.  They seem to cater for everyone as they have their own car park style campground at $23 (£11.50) night plus free camping in another area.  At the other side of the motorway there is a Wal-Mart and we shop there and feel rather strange waling back to our motel room rather than camping up on their car park!  I’m keen to return and make full use o the room where there are free movies and time during the excessive adverts to have a bath.  Steve pops down to the sport bar and uses the “free chicken wings” voucher to have a snack with his beer.

MESQUITE, OASIS CASINO MOTEL

MONDAY 5 NOVEMBER- Whilst I am doing my hair Steve nips across to Casa Blanca joins the members club and gets us checked into their hotel.  Take a drive to the local “Big O tires” depot and they find the same warped rim on the other front tyre.  Apparently the wheels can only go on in one position as they have to line up with something but the lad at the brake place did not do this.  Having used our only spare to swap the other rim we can now only balance the other wheel and put it back in the correct position in the hope that it will work.  We’re now at the far end of Mesquite and near Virgin River casino so call in to check out their member offers and yes they also offer a free nights stay so I sign up and book in for tomorrow.  What’s even funnier is that we are now just enrolling one of us so in theory we could return to each place and get another room in the other persons name for another night!  Driving back on the freeway Steve finds the wheel wobble completely cured but on slowing down there seems to be some problem with the brakes catching.  Will return tomorrow as we are now back at the Casa Blanca car park.  Their buffet lunch is $8.61 (£4.30) and we use our 2 for 1 voucher making it another cheep meal.  En route to our room I decide to put $1 into one of the slot machines and walk away with over $10.  The swimming pool is closed for the season but Steve sits beside it in the afternoon whilst I take a nap and watch TV.  The rooms here are in a large tower block, more hotel style and slightly more luxuriously appointed.  Today Steve has chosen a room with 2 queen beds for a change.  In the evening I watch movies whilst Steve go across the road for the free chicken wings.  His $2 gamble returns $37 so we are really having a good time.

MESQUITE 2, CASA BLANCA CASINO HOTEL

TUESDAY 6 NOVEMBER – After leaving our room we shop at Wal Mart, return to Big O for them to clean up the brakes then check in to Virgin River Casino.  Today we have motel style rooms overlooking the swimming pool, twin beds and to Steves delight the Liverpool match on the TV in our room. Just how good does it get – well Liverpool winning I guess would be the icing on the cake – and they do 8-0.  Again we get a 2 for 1 buffet lunch this time at Virgin River Casino, $8.61 (£4.30) but we are now learning a bit of restraint.  Walk across the road to Eureka Casino in the evening and get a free drink and shrimp cocktail with their voucher book.  Back at Virgin Casino the 7pm bingo proves quite a challenge.  We’ve had 2 books for the price of 1 and it’s a square 5 x 5 number sheet and the calling is very fast.  Don’t think we won!  Our next voucher is for 3 games of bowling for the price of 2 and at $2.50 (£1.25) per game and the same for shoe hire it’s quite reasonable.  Steve bowls 131, 170, 194 and I manage 114, 115, 145 so both quite pleased with that and the free hot dog that follows.  What an amazing 3 nights in Mesquite, free accommodation, food and drinks. Back at the room I find it impossible to remove my wedding and engagement ring to put them back in place, being a left handed bowler I always swap them over.  Think my fingers must have fattened up with all the binging.

MESQUITE 3, VIRGIN RIVER CASINO MOTEL

WEDNESDAY 7 NOVEMBER – I’ve had a terrible sleep as my finger has swollen badly and is throbbing.  Have tried ice, heat, oil and soap in all combinations but the rings won’t budge, the swelling is worse and my finger is going a funny colour.  Call in to the visitor centre to find out where I might get them cut off.  Steve heads to the jewellers whilst I do Internet.  He returns and tells me they can cut them off for $25 (£12.50) each but have to send the rings away for repair.  Steve pops to the toilet and returns to suggest to me using soap and holding my hand under the blow dryers.  This gets the rings moving further and with the addition of oil and more heat I finally force them off spurred on by the thought of paying out $50.  Finally hit the road on the I15 heading towards Utah but first we must go through a small section of ARIZONA.  Finally our clocks are right after our not so brief visit to Mesquite so now 7 hours behind GMT.  By the freeway is Virgin River Recreation Site with cheap camping at a lovely spot with spacious sites.  We camp on the edge to get privacy and spend the afternoon sitting out reading.  The hotel rooms have been fun but it’s nice to be home again.  This area adjoins the Grand Canyon north rim and has similar style rock formations and these look stunning at sunset.

VIRGIN RIVER RECREATION SITE

$8 (£4), (Half price with Golden Eagle pass)

THURSDAY 8 NOVEMBER – It’s really very pleasant here so we will stay another day.  Mid afternoon I follow the trail down to the Virgin River and get some idea of just how deep the gorge is.  By evening it is cloudy, cooler and becoming windy.

VIRGIN RIVER REC SITE 2

FRIDAY 9 NOVEMBER – It’s a very windy morning and Steve notices it whilst driving, as we are quite high up.  The freeways are very scenic with lots of cuttings through the rocks and amazing rock formations in all directions.  In UTAH we top up our tanks before returning to the ARIZONA strip and our first stop at National Pipes Monument.  We’ve not been able to get any maps or info on Arizona so it’s a bit of a mystery but only ½ mile from the main road.  It’s $5 (£2.50) pp (inc in pass) admission to a Mormon farming site, interpretive centre plus a guided tour.  We are the only visitors so our guide takes us straight over to “Windsor Castle” a very impressive building from the late 1800’s where bigamous Mormon wives came to stay.  The whole community was almost self-sufficient having a natural water source from the spring.  They grew crops and reared cattle with surplus goods used for trade.  The house is full of original artefacts and it’s all surprisingly interesting.  At Jacob’s Lake we turn off towards the North Rim of the Grand Canyon.  At the visitor centre we learn that from 15^th October everything is officially closed and fees no longer apply.  However you can still visit until the first snowfall.  The campground is still accessible for free dry camping and we can do all the hikes.  It’s a one way in and out road to the rim and it heads through forest of various types of pines where in one section they are doing a controlled burn.  Interspaced with the forest are huge meadows but the grass is all dried up.  We are now over 8000’ high and the temperature has dropped accordingly.  At the end of the main road we park by the visitor centre and lodge and head off on “Bright Angel Point Trail”.  We walk out to view the canyon and are immediately over awed by it all.  The half-mile trail takes us out along a narrow rock top with views in 3 directions into different sections of the canyon and along the Angel Bright fault line that runs through to the South Rim.  The rock colours are fantastic, it’s easy to see the many different layers, and the cloudy/smoking skies give it a kind of ethereal look.   For once the Americanism of awesome is not out of place as the views are truly spectacular.  True to form we are sufficiently impressed to take far too many photos. From below the lodge there are a number of viewing points on rocks that edge out into the canyon but Steve finds them quite unnerving as you are so high up.  The campground is right by the rim of the canyon so we have a view of the rocks through the trees.  There’s an abundance of firewood so Steve can’t resist a fire after tea but the cold soon drives us indoors.

GRAND CANYON NP, NORTH RIM CAMPGROUND

SATURDAY 10 NOVEMBER – It’s been a cold night and we are late getting up so by the time we hit the trail it’s 10.30am.  We want to walk part of the way down into the canyon along the North Kaibab track.  It’s very steep and in the season you can go down on mules but I think that would be even scarier as you would be looking down from a higher point.  We’re amazed to find joggers coming up the track towards us.  Just over half a mile in we reach Coconino Overlook with stunning views.  Today there is a clear blue sky but in spite of the sun it’s still quite cool as most of the trail is shaded.  Another 1-½ even steeper miles further we have dropped down to the Supai Tunnel.  There’s a clearing with water and toilet and rails where we suspect the mules are tied.  Just through the tunnel we can see the track hair pinning it’s way downwards but this has taken us 50 minutes and we have been warned it will take twice as long climbing out.  We’re still very pleased to have got a feel for what the canyon looks like from below the rim.  Many of the 10 different rock layers are visible to the naked eye and it’s really beautiful.  Some of the joggers and now heading back down and we are amazed to learn that they set off from the South Rim at 4am to do the descent to the bottom, up to the north rim and return in the same day, a total of 43.2 miles.  Are they crazy or mad?  I soon realise how unfit I am as we begin our climb out.  It’s really hard going as the air is cold on your chest but we plod on taking frequent rests and make it back up in 75 minutes.  It’s the first long uphill walk since I rupture my Achilles tendon and it has swollen up a bit.  Unfortunately the road out to Cape Royal is closed today so we revise our plan and head out of the park.  We begin to see smoke in the distance and presume it is another prescribed fire but this time west of us or maybe they are now burning the piles of logs that littered the roadside after they had felled the trees close to the highway.  Back on the main 89a we soon find a turn off to a clearing in the forest where we can stay overnight.  Tonight is even colder and we go to bed with 2 duvets and wrapped up in tracksuits with blankets over our heads.  Steve looks like a devout Muslim with all but his eyes obscured!

KAIBAB NF, GREAT WESTERN TRAIL. HWY 89A MILE 576

SUNDAY 11 NOVEMBER – The road descends rapidly and we realise we may have been better off camping in the valley below the Vermillion Cliffs where it would have been warmer.  Anyway we didn’t and the morning sun makes this a super drive past the colourful cliffs and also the village of “Cliff Dwellers”.  Pause to check out the two Navajo Bridges over the Colorado River, the second a wider replica of the original.  Back by Marble Canyon it’s another very impressive area.  We are now travelling through the Navajo Tribal lands and roadside stalls abound selling their local crafts, predominantly turquoise.  We turn off towards the South Rim of the Grand Canyon and stop at a few more scenic viewpoints, all of them worth the stop.  Our final spot for the night is back in the Kaibab National Forest but this time just outside the eastern entrance to the Grand Canyon National Park.  Steve goes off for an exploratory walk and returns with a couple of deer hooves so I guess this is where they have been hunting recently.

KAIBAB NF, JUST EAST OF GRAND CANYON NP SOUTH RIM

MONDAY 12 NOVEMBER – A short drive brings us to the park entrance and once again our annual pass saves us the admission of $25 (£12.50).  We are at the eastern end of the South Rim and at the area known as Desert View we get our first stunning view into the canyon and a chance to climb the old watchtower complete with interesting Indian paintings.  The road follows the rim with many scenic viewpoints and we stop at them all, as they are all impressive in their own right and must be what induced the American term “awesome”.  From Lipan Point we see the rapids below and find it hard to believe that they are 1 mile long as they look like nothing.  The old Tusayan ruins are very basic and Moran Point the lesser of the view points in our eyes.  At the main visitor area we park up by the “Shrine of Ages” and after a session of free wi-fi at the library we are ready for more exploration.  The park has 3 linking free shuttle buses and we set off to the Canyon View Information Plaza with interesting displays and a geology talk.  Nearby Mather Point is justifiably one of the most famous viewpoints within the park and does not disappoint.  On the Kaibab Trail bus I have miss interpreted the info and we over shoot our stop.  We planned to do part of a walk into the canyon but end up enjoying the view from Yaki Point.  We could complete the 30 minute bus loop to do the hike but time is pressing on so instead we go to Yavapai Observation Station.  Again we catch a ranger talk enhanced by a superb topographical display of the canyon and enjoy the other displays in the museum.  Here you get a superb view down to Phantom Ranch in the bottom of the canyon and the swing bridge that leads to it.  Bus the Hermits Rest Route and walk from Powell Point to Hopi Point and also get off at Hermits Rest.  We’re actually getting a bit blasé now about the views and it’s getting late so we return to the van to drive out of the park.  About 4 miles from the entrance we turn into another section of the Kaibab National Forest for another nice free camp.

KAIBAB NF JUST S OF GRAND CANYON NP SOUTH RIM, NORTH LONG JIM LOOP ROAD

TUESDAY 13 NOVEMBER – It was so cold in the night that I got up to put the heating on and made up a hot water bottle and only then was warm in my track suit and under 2 duvets.  We return to the park and this time get off at the correct stop to do part of the South Kaibab Trail.  It’s totally different to the one on the opposite rim as it begins with a steep ascent down a switchback trail.  The heavily used track has warm away to sand in most parts making the going even harder.  Again the descent is relatively easy and we soon reach “Ooh Aah Point”. We continue further down to a ridge where we get views in both directions into the canyon.  Knowing how difficult the climb out is we call it a day but interestingly have far less problems climbing out this time even though there are many more steps.  Has our fitness level increased already or is it a combination of us starting out from a lower altitude and doing a shorter walk?  It’s early afternoon when we drive out of the park on the main highway to Williams and then the freeway to Flagstaff.  Wal-Mart has no overnight parking signs in abundance so after a quick shop we head off to a free campground on Willow Springs Road just of the motorway going south.  As I am guiding Steve onto a parking spot I notice our petrol cap is missing.   Steve is confident it was on this morning so it looks like it went walkabouts in Wal-Mart car park.  In our haste to get away from Flagstaff and camped up for the night we have come on the wrong road but soon manage to reform a plan to still take in the places we want to visit and to meet up with Les & Margaret from Yorkshire who are in the area.

I17 EXIT 236, WILLOW SPRINGS ROAD

WEDNESDAY 14 NOVEMBER – Continue on I17 then turn off for Montezuma’s Well.  It’s a natural sinkhole that is constantly filling with natural spring water.  The “Sinagua” people tapped it off into channels to irrigate their farms and you can still see the channels in operation and remains of their dwellings.  Nearby is Montezuma’s Castle National Monument, $5 (2.50) pp but inc in pass.  In the cliffs there are signs of ancient “Sinagua” dwellings the most impressive being known as the Castle.  We’re on Native American land so there is the ubiquitous casino “Cliff Castle”.  Les & Margaret are broken down at a garage and having come on the wrong road yesterday we must now form another new plan if we are to visit them.  Camp Verde town is small enough for us to navigate easily and park to do laundry.  Steve tries, but fails, to buy a replacement petrol camp but one that locks.  The man at the garage says we are now classed as locals as everyone has them stolen and he suggests we do the same to replace ours!  The main street is quiet and pleasant for walking along and on the outskirts of town there is a modern shopping centre as well.  Settle back on the casino car park for overnight. 

CAMP VERDE, CLIFF CASTLE CASINO

THURSDAY 15 NOVEMBER – For once we have enjoyed a warm night and wake up so much more refreshed.  Cutting across country via Oak Valley we are soon aware of the red rock formations that this area is famous for. Not only that but also many including “Bell Rock” are also vortexes.  Chapel of the Holy Cross is impressive in the way that it is built into the rocks but equally impressive is the enormous Italianate mansion across the road owned by the pioneers of lasik eye surgery.  Many of the homes in Arizona are in Mexican adobe style and blend in well with the landscape but this one certainly doesn’t do that.  Sedona has become quite an artist’s community and wandering around the mock Spanish style Tlaquepaque village we are very impressed by the sculptures and glasswork.  The tourist office opposite is also a front for Hyatt Vacation Club and we are easily persuaded to give up 90 minutes of our time in exchange for 2 x $95 (£45) scenic helicopter flights – we just have to pay the taxes. Before we know it we are flying over the rocks and through the valleys, past ancient cliff dwellings and along Boynton Canyon.  It’s a stunning flight but not quite as dramatic as others that we have done.  The pilot points out the more interesting rocks and tells us their names including one called “The Capitol” that Walt Disney used as a mould for his Thunder Mountain Railroad ride.  Back in town the Hyatt presentation is bang on 90 minutes with no high pressure whatsoever. There’s a free trolley bus through town so we take the loop but don’t alight.  Just south of Sedona we find the famous Red Rock loop road rather disappointing and in parts the dirt road is very bad.  A little further south we find a forest road where we can free camp for the night.  SEDONA, HWY 89A SOUTH THEN FR 525

TUESDAY 16 OCTOBER – The majority of people staying here are full timers who come for months at a time.  There is a clubhouse with social rooms and an activity programme.  Head off for the 9am computer talk followed by the problem solving as I have one or two things going wrong with mine.  Steve tries the brake seminar but leaves when he realises it is a disguise for the sale of a $600 product.  Fred, the computer man, needs to read up on my problems and calls round to our van after lunch.  Unfortunately he tries to do much of the fixing by the book and we get in a bit of a mess and end up worse than before.  Meanwhile Steve heads off for the free tasting at the winery followed by sunbathing by the pool.  I fit in a late swim and hot tub session after giving up on the computer.  In the evening Steve enters the “Texas Hold Em” poker tournament, $5.25 (£2.60) and does very well and wins on his table and almost doubles his money.  Hope this doesn’t encourage him to try it in Vegas where the same game commands around $100 entry fee. 

PAHRUMP 2, CHARLESTON PEAK RESORT

WEDNESDAY 17 OCTOBER – We are both up early, last night I managed to find sport on Radio 5 live so Steve is ready for listening to the England v Russia game.  Alas it is one they are unable to broadcast so he has to settle for a teleprompter style update and worse still England losing.  Late morning we drive to town and get a fantastic lunch deal at Terribles Casino.  With our 2 for 1 coupon the total bill for the all you can eat buffet, unlimited soft and hot drinks is $5.35 (£2.60), unbelievable.  At the clubhouse they are playing card bingo in the evening.  Everyone has to take 3 x 5c, 3 x 10c, 3 x 25c and $1.  Each group of 4 deals a 52-card pack between themselves and you then lay the cards down face up in front of you in suits.  The caller shuffles another deck then proceeds to call the cards as she turns them over.  When one of your cards is called you throw it into the middle of the table and the winner is the first to get rid of all their cards.  For the first 3 rounds you all put 5c into the pot then the stakes increase until the last game is for the dollars.  I win twice on the 10c rounds, once jointly.  Quite a fun evening and a chance to get to know a few more people.

PAHRUMP 3, CHARLESTON PEAK RESORT

THURSDAY 18 OCTOBER – At 9am we have to go through our presentation and Helene seems very pleasant.  We know immediately that it is not for us at this time in our life but are eager to know more as it may suit us later.  Basically you pay a one off fee of $14000 plus administration then for $395 year you can use Western Horizon Resorts for a nominal nightly charge and other affiliated resorts for free.  Nearing the end of our talk the boss Craig comes over as he can see Helene is not closing on us.  He is extremely obnoxious from the first instant, asks us questions about why we won’t sign up but doesn’t even begin to listen to our response.  Steve is so miffed that he says something that causes Craig to say he will leave us with Helene.  But Steve is already so cross that he walks out.  Someone did warn us about Craig but even so we are amazed by his attitude.  Maybe he figures we weren’t buying anyway so what had he got to lose but I can tell you that given the number of people we talk to it could be quite a lot of business.  Helene gives Steve a few minutes the talks him back in to hear the rest of the presentation which brings in the interesting facts that you get a cabin free for 1 week plus 3 weeks timeshare accommodation every year.  Receive our 2 free bottles of wine and return home chewing over the concept but also composing a letter about Craig to their head office. Steve enters an afternoon pool tournament but is soon knocked out by one of the two chaps who play here every day.  Meanwhile I look on E-Bay and find that you can buy a similar campground package to Western Horizon for $1999 second hand so maybe Craig has to come in strong not because the product isn’t that good but because you can get the same thing much cheaper elsewhere.  I go down to watch Steve in the evening poker tournament where again he comes out ahead of the game but fortunately not sufficiently so to make him think he can hit the tables at Vegas!

PAHRUMP 4, CHARLESTON PEAK RESORT

FRIDAY 19 OCTOBER – In spite of our initial dismay in arriving at a “car park” out time has gone quickly and not been too bad at all although it is something we would never have done if we had been paying for it.  Between Pahrump and Las Vegas are the amazing rock formations at Red Rock Canyon, $5 (inc in pass).  There’s an excellent visitor centre and outside it a path of remembrance including a memorial stone that says, “Larry Bray born 6-26-40 died 5-30-05 Betty Bray born 6-02-39 died ……”, think she was buying a 2 for the price of 1! One of the larger memorial sections is a dedication to 911.  The main rock formation changes from white to pink then pink and white rippled rather like the soft serve ice cream machines.  We park at the picnic area to hike but find the petroglyphs poor and the hike into a gorge doesn’t get us far in before reaching a dead end.  After lunch I go off to check out the other petroglyphs and they are also uninspiring but en route I get talking to Stephanie and Richard who have just arrived here from England to stay for 3 years at the RAF base.  I take them back to meet Steve and they stay chatting over a drink.  As soon as they leave we head to Las Vegas and can’t believe how close to the park it is.  When we visited in 1994 it was the fastest growing city in USA and we can now see the results but still find it staggering.  Manage to arrive at our destination in East Las Vegas, by Sunrise Mountain, in spite of making a couple of wrong turns.  Our host Melodi’s home has 2 excellent flat driveways and we are soon parked up as instructed.  A car soon arrives, her daughter Cara dropping youngest daughter Summer off.  We introduce ourselves and explain that we are going to have an hours snooze.  When we wake up Melodi is home from work and we sit out in her front garden, shaded by the house, with a fine view of the rock mountain.  Her friend Robin, with her miniature poodle Ruby, comes round to meet us and we stay out watching the sunset changing the colours on the rock of Sunrise Mountain.  Melodi’s home is impressively decorated with an African wildlife theme and from her back garden you get glimpses over the vast spread of Las Vegas City.  We want to go downtown and Robin offers to drop us off on her way home and Melodi will pick us up after her massage.  Ruby is strapped into her special dog safety seat in the front and we sit in the back.  Before taking us into the city Robin gives us a nice tour around the area, past a huge floodlit Mormon tabernacle and to a spot with a most fantastic panoramic view.  No pictures could impress on us the sheer spectacle and amount of lights throughout.  Dropped at Fremont Street area we immediately catch the 8pm “celestial vault” light show.  A huge canopy over the pedestrianised street turns into an enormous big screen TV with pictures accompanied by music. We wander in and out of the many casinos picking up lots of snack food and drinks at 99c (50p) a time.  The 9pm and 10pm Celestial Vault shows are both different and we also see many street performers.  Riding back Melodi tells us more about the area and suggests other things we can do. 

LAS VEGAS, KENNEDY STREET

SATURDAY 20 OCTOBER – When we asked about a place to park we also mentioned we needed public transport and although you there is a bus stop about 1 mile from here it would take 3 buses and almost 1 hour to get to “The Strip” and leaving at 9pm we would not get back until 2.30am.  Another alternative is to take the motorhome down but Melodi says she is happy to drop us on the Strip and either come down and join us or pick us up later.   Begin at Tropicana where we are amazed at the changes since our last visit, as New York New York now looms opposite.  To begin with we plan to see the casinos that weren’t here before plus the ones with free attractions.  In MGM we sign up for the 10.30am CBS Television City Research centre show.  We are taken into a room and sat behind a computer.  During the showing of a TV programme you have a hand held device and must turn the dial between 0 (would normally turn this programme off) and 100 (this is fantastic) whilst watching to indicate your level of interest.  It’s Criminal Minds, which we have seen before and enjoyed.  At the end of the screening we have to complete a questionnaire and then get an envelope of half price coupons.  The Lion Habitat within MGM has 3 cubs in a large glass area along with a couple of trainers, one of whom is sat down using his mobile phone.  The cubs are fun to watch but it seems totally out of place and wrong for the animals.  Steve wants to watch England playing South Africa in the rugby final and hears that Caesars are televising it.  The strip is an optical illusion and appears to be only a couple of miles long but is actually nearer 6.  However we know it’s still a relatively short walk to Caesars so hot foot it in that direction pausing to take in the magnificent musical water fountains at Bellagio on the way past.  Having checked a number of sport bars on route Steve is disappointed to find the last shot at Caesars fails.  We are now near to “The Venetian” complete with St Marks Square façade and mini canal at the front.  Inside on the 2^nd floor is mini St Mark’s square with a 1 mile long “Grand Canal” complete with gondolas on the crystal clear chlorinated bright blue water.  Can just hear the Americans saying “Gee honey I guess we’ve no need to go to Venice now!”  Nipping in and out of the lesser known casino’s we end up with a liquid lunch using vouchers to get the 99c margaritas and bottles of beer on 2 for 1, in other words 50c  (25p) a drink.  No wonder the street is heaving with people staggering along in party mode with drinks in hand.  The Flamingo Wildlife Habitat is busy as there are 17 weddings taking place today; we see 3 in the space of about 10 minutes.  Back at The Bellagio we admire the amazing Dale Chihuly glass sculptures around the building, flower arrangements, huge leaves and a complete floral ceiling in the lobby.  Even this is surpassed by the splendid Conservatory and Botanical Gardens with seasonal vegetation and flower displays.  At Planet Hollywood we traipse through the Miracle Mile shopping area, complete with fake cloudy sky ceiling, but the Rainforest show is not working.  At least we get to see samples of the theatre acts on the food court stage.  M&M have a factory shop complete with a wall covered in tubes of different coloured ones.  The top floor has a kind of museum explaining the production process leading to a 3D theatre show about an M that goes missing; we sit there wondering what on earth we are doing.  Melodi picks us up by Tropicana at 5pm and we head straight out to Bangkok Orchid where we meet Robin and another friend Pam for a meal.  The food is excellent and we get to try a few new things including a delicious Strawberry Chicken. Next we all head out to Las Vegas Lake.  Melodi drives a convertible sports car and with Steve sat in the back we feel like Thelma and Louise racing out into the desert.  The man made lake is home to many famous people including Celine Dion.  There’s a Casino, mock Italian village and boats that do tours on the lake but unfortunately tonight it is all unusually quiet.  Robin suggests going back to her place for coffee and dessert.  She surprises us by standing in the kitchen reciting loads of tempting dessert choices including key lime pie and strawberry cheesecake.  Once we have made our selection she brings in a small box and opens it up to reveal coloured tablets.  “Sinfully Delicious” are zero fat no guilt dessert bites that you pop in your mouth and suck.  If you close your eyes you are supposed to be able to imagine all the flavours of your chosen dessert!  Doesn’t quite work as well as described but it is certainly a novelty. Robin sings with a “Sweet Adeline International” group, a form of ladies barbers shop quartet style harmony.  She plays DVD footage of some of the songs and it’s really different and nice to hear.  Driving back to Melodi’s the wind has got really strong and we can see a dust storm beginning to come in. 

LAS VEGAS 2, KENNEDY STREET

SUNDAY 21 OCTOBER – It’s Melodi’s daughter Nikki’s birthday today and we are invited to join the family party complete with her parents and siblings.  We have a great time getting to know everyone and end up being invited to spend the evening at her brother in law Rich’s who lives next door with his wife Staci (Melodi’s sister) and family.  Join all the family for the evening church service with many differences to an English one.  The hymns are more modern and sung without accompaniment and the main sermon is given in the latter half of the service by a preacher in one long stretch.  Our return with Richard includes at detour to where Arnold Schwartzneger used to live.  At Richard and Staci’s we meet up with his daughters Brandi, Shari and Elisa, Melodi & Summer and the preacher Chris with his family.  After an enjoyable meal together we chat until late. 

LAS VEGAS 3, KENNEDY STREET

MONDAY 22 OCTOBER – Due to public transport difficulties we decide to move down onto the strip to park behind the Tropicana Hotel.  By waiting until the rush hour is over we manage the journey easily.  It’s just after 10am when we begin by walking north.  We saunter along then realise that we really need a more structured plan as everything is so spread out.  Catch a bus to downtown and have a snack lunch including the famous 99c (50p) shrimp cocktails.  Everything looks so different in the daylight, most things seems more impressive at night.  One of the new club member benefits are free tickets for the 2pm showing of “Viva Las Vegas” in The Plaza.  It’s an excellent variety show with dancers, a magician and a very funny comedian.  Hop on bus back to Sahara at the top of the strip and find a long line to join their club.  Not surprising as membership gives you the evening buffet for $6.99 (£3.50) instead of $12.99.  Needing to work off our food we set out to walk amongst the neon lights.  It’s rather like Blackpool Illuminations as each casino tries to outdo its neighbour.  Wynn is quite a new and luxurious casino with impressive décor and horticulture. The Lake of Dreams is within a restaurant and accessed by an escalator that curves round on both sides rather like the staircase in a posh mansion.  From the balcony upstairs you can look through the 2-storey plate glass window to watch the show on the lake.  Music and images combine to create a show with characters seeming to appear out of the water.  The 10pm Treasure Island show is now “Sirens of TI” with lots of emphasis on skimpily clad dancing girls.  Wind up at the 11pm volcano display outside “Mirage” but find it briefer and somewhat less impressive than we remember.  The buses are running very frequently and within minutes we are enjoying the spectacle of the strip from the top deck front seats of “The Deuce”.  It’s just about midnight when we arrive home after our mammoth 14-hour day out, can’t work out how far we have walked but my feet are giving me a clue.

LAS VEGAS 4, TROPICANA HOTEL PARK

TUESDAY 23 OCTOBER – Luckily we were both tired enough to sleep through all the noise.  We are only 1 block away from the airport but the early morning helicopters setting out for the Grand Canyon scenic flights do get the better of me.  Set out around 9am and find New York New York rather disappointing as the famous Central Square is just a few fake trees amongst the slot machines.  Take the bus to Circus Circus where giving our E-mail address gets us $5 (£2.50) each in slot play.  Steve does really well and turns his into almost $30 (£15) and between us we walk away $40 (£20) up on the deal.  At the Sahara our membership give us a daily go on a special slot machine and Steve wins 25/25.  That’s $25 on his card that must be put through the slots plus $25 to spend in the gift shop.  Well the slots convert it to just over $20 in cash so we are having a really good day.  Bus it down to Terribles and get a 2 for 1 buffet lunch leaving just enough time on our 24-hour bus pass to get to Rio.  Their “Masquerade in the Sky” show is unusual.  A 2-tier stage comes up from the floor with singers and dancers.  Next 4 illuminated floats come around on tracks in the ceiling. Once this is over we take the free shuttle bus to Bally’s.  Check out the new Paris Hotel complete with Eiffel Tower and Arc de Triumph.  In the shopping area is a glass cabinet containing a million dollars and it doesn’t look much at all.  Each hotel seems to have false facades on all the shops to make them look like ones in the appropriate country but to us just ends up looking like Disney World.   Wander back home for a rest before the lights come on for our evening exploration.  Hooters is just behind the car park and our membership gives us some freebies including tickets for a show tomorrow night.  There’s a free monorail from Excalibur to the new Mandaley Bay but little of interest within.  Luxor has changed a lot since we visited in 1994 and seems less impressive without the internal river and boats.  Likewise Excalibur and we can only conclude that the new look within the casinos is minimalist to create larger floor areas with more slots and tables.  Vacation Club touts are everywhere but we aren’t interested after being tipped off that they take 4-hours on the promotion with hard sell.  Their opening gambit is to ask where you live so this time we answer England whereas if we wanted the deal we would have said USA.  Once they know you are foreign and not potential customers they say “Welcome to Las Vegas” leaving all the foreigners going away thinking what a friendly place it is. 

LAS VEGAS 5, TROPICANA CAR PARK

WEDNESDAY 24 OCTOBER – Hooters casino membership gave us tickets to cash in for tonight’s show by Bobby Slayton.  Steve pops in and picks up the tickets and finds that there is a nice swimming pool area we can use.  Spend the day by the pool with Steve popping out to the Rose & Crown to watch the Liverpool match but walking out part way through when asked to pay $10 (£5) cover charge in addition to his drinks.  The evening show is a combination of a film with other artists making jokes about Bobby Slayton, a comedian who sings funny songs accompanied by his guitar and then the main act.  Based on comments about women of a certain age and taking digs at the audience it’s very funny but we do find his rapid delivery hard to follow.  

LAS VEGAS 6, TROPICANA CAR PARK

THURSDAY 25 OCTOBER – We leave early and drive right up “The Strip” in the motorhome.  It seems that early morning is only time of day when traffic is light.  We’ve been having a bit of squeaking in the brakes and don’t know if it is dust or the pads wearing down after all our mountaineering.  Call in to Just Brakes to have them checked and learn that they are good for another 10,000 miles.  Return to Melodi’s and in the evening we cook a BBQ.  Summer & Robin also join us and it’s a beautiful evening with a full moon so we sit out until late.

LAS VEGAS 7, KENNEDY STREET

FRIDAY 26 OCTOBER – It’s Nevada day and a public holiday for many but Melodi has to put in a few hours early morning.  Once she arrives home we head off out on a trip.  End up going through the attractive Boulder City and out to the majestic Hoover Dam.  It’s incredibly busy but once parked up we can wander past the huge tube like spillway across the dam wall itself to get fine view in both directions.  The dam wall marks the border between Nevada and Arizona and for part of the year they are on different times so one tower has a Nevada clock and the other has one for Arizona.  The main highway from Las Vegas into Arizona runs over the bridge and this causes a lot of congestion but we can see a new bridge in the process of being built high above the gorge.  Return via the shore of Lake Mead with a stop at the marina to hand feed the huge carp with popcorn.  Their open mouths are enormous and they seem like vacuum cleaners.  I definitely won’t be swimming in the lake at any stage!  Cutting back through the mountains we end up above Las Vegas and can see the smoke from the California fires hanging over the city.  Arrive back in time for Summer to go out to the “fright dome” with her friends.  Melodi joins us at Harry’s restaurant then we go into the house to watch some DVD’s.

LAS VEGAS 8, KENNEDY STREET

SATURDAY 27 OCTOBER – Set out towards Lake Mead but at cruising speed on the open road Steve notices a bad wheel wobble.  We’ve not had it before so suspect it relates back to when they took both wheels off to check the brakes.  Turn back to Just Brakes but the boss says that they don’t do wheel balancing and we must go elsewhere.  At “Big O Tires” they remove the first front wheel and their balancing machine finds a problem. There is a warp in the centre of the rim and although it can’t be proved it seems likely that the young lad at “Just Brakes” caused it when putting the wheel back on.  It cannot be knocked out so we settle for using the spare rim and swapping tires.    The garage are convince this has solved the problem so don’t bother to check the other tyre.  Seems our free brake check has cost us $25.50 (£12.50) for a balance and left us with a dodgy spare rim!  Back out on the road to Lake Mead we still have a wobble but were not sufficiently impressed with the guys at “Big O Tires” so will press on and seek help further down the line.  Enter Lake Mead Recreation Area $5 (£2.50), inc in pass.  The Northshore Drive is excellent and takes us through undulating desert with a wide variety of multi coloured and textured rock formations.  Hike up to Northshore Summit Overlook for a view into Bowl of Fire with the flaming red rocks.  Next stop is “Redstone” where a few large red rocks have emerged from the earth and weathered away to reveal lots of holes and mini caves.  Stewarts Point is our final stop of the day, a hue stretch of land along the edge of Lake Mead with free camping for up to 15 days.  It’s not all that popular and by driving west we find a spot with just one other van and a stunning view over the lake, the desert and the mountains behind.  After a late lunch Steve goes out to walk further and says he has found an even better spot for tomorrow.  The sky is overcast with a combination of low cloud and smoke from the California fires so it appears to get dark quite early. After a few day visitors leave we find it extremely quiet.

LAKE MEAD, STEWARTS POINT (108A) DRIPPING COVE ROAD

SUNDAY 28 OCTOBER – Awake to the sun making the van crack and creak.  The clouds are gone but the remaining smoke haze tempers the blue sky.  Can only imagine what it must be like near San Diego.  Relocate to sector 108b where we get another superb view but more privacy, as we are not by a boat ramp.  The clouds soon clear and things hot up sufficiently for us to take many cooling dips in the clear waters of Lake Mead.  We have set up camp with our plastic carpet covering the dusty sandstone and the awning giving us shade.  We cannot help but keep passing comment on what a beautiful spot this is and how perfect for us.  The sunset around 5pm is spectacular with clouds picking up the pink and red colours.  Finally move in once it gets dark but it’s still pleasantly warm.

LAKE MEAD 2, STEWARTS POINT (108b) PEBBLE ROAD

MONDAY 29 OCTOBER – The weather forecast got it wrong and the predicted hot sunny day is replaced by a cooler cloudy one “forcing” us back to bed after breakfast to read.  Mid afternoon it brightens up enough for us to sit out and also have a dip in the water.

LAKE MEAD 3, STEWARTS POINT – PEBBLE ROAD

TUESDAY 30 OCTOBER – The skies are clear when we wake up and we spend the day outside and take lots of dips in the water.

LAKE MEAD 4, STEWARTS POINT – PEBBLE ROAD

WEDNESDAY 31 OCTOBER – It’s quite breezy in the morning so we both head off on an exploratory walk.  The shoreline is peppered with gullies of varying depths and some with water.  Even walking a long way back from the water we find shells in the earth verifying just how high the water used to be.  Since the year 2000 it has dropped 110 feet and is expected to keep doing so for the next 2-years when the drought is expected to break.  Last weekend on the far shore we saw new tar roads had been put in below the original water level to lead to the marinas so it looks unlikely that the level will ever increase as much as before.  It gets harder to cross the gullies as many now have dense bushes growing along their old water line.  We follow one inland and reach an impressive canyon with sculptured sandstone walls.  This is an incredible area and we are surprised how few people stay here.  Back at home we enjoy the rest of the day in the sun.  As it get darks around 6pm Steve lights a small fire but we stay out even after it has burnt out, as the stars are amazing.  At any one time there are always the lights of at least 3 aircraft to be seen and often they run into double figures.  Shooting stars abound and it really is spectacular with the glow of Las Vegas still visible 50 miles away. LAKE MEAD 5, STEWARTS