200812

MONDAY 1 DECEMBER 2008  - Driving through, Casitas we get lots of people coming out trying to coax us into their restaurants.  When Steve and Kevin cycled through no one bothered them at all!  Just after Nautla Bridge (toll P31, £1.55) we take a detour down a rural road shown on the map to run between the coast and a lake whilst the main road veers inland.  The cobbled road improves when it turns to dirt.  This is obviously farming country and it is interesting to see the fences they use.  I’m guessing they originally planted saplings to use as posts for the barbed wire and these have grown into huge rows of trees many of which have large anthills in their forks.  On the poorer farms they have used Mexican barbed wire – the big round prickly parts of the cactus stuck into the ground and overlapping.  Many village homes are made from thin wooden poles stacked either horizontally or vertically. We see neither the lake nor the ocean but it is a very interesting drive. Back on the main highway we pass many banana plantations and fields of sugar cane.  Just north of Veracruz we turn off to go to Playa Chachalacas.  A section of the road is closed with road works so we follow the locals on a complicated detour.  I begin writing it down on a scrap of paper and my line falls of the side and then off the top of a second sheet!  Eventually reach the beach area lined with restaurants and shops.  It’s pretty bleak and made worse when we reach the southern end to find the parking area has piles of black sandy tar piled up.  Lorries seem to be ferrying the stuff on to the beaches, we think to fight the erosion problem.  Don’t know what the long-term plan is but it sure looks ugly at the moment.  We try the northern end of the beach beyond the village and find just a few homes.  There is no obvious parking place but a local directs us onto what looks like an unused garden.  It is a superb grassy field above the ocean and once parked up we see people sat around a table nearby.  Steve & Kevin go to ask if we park overnight and they say yes but want P250 (£12.50) per motorhome.  They are either having a bit of a laugh, as this is more expensive than any of the fully service campgrounds, or they don’t want us here.  Further back towards town is another garden where the lady is very pleased to let us both park and wants P25 (£1.25) each.  Our walk around the village doesn’t take long and doesn’t inspire us.  Still it is a good overnight stop meaning we can tackle the Veracruz by pass early tomorrow.

PLAYA CHACHALACAS

TUESDAY 2 DECEMBER – It has rained almost all night so we are up early but decide to wait until rush hour is over before leaving.  We’ve heard that Veracruz is motorhome unfriendly and those who have attempted to drive through it have often been fined on trumped up charges. It’s easy to get around it on the by pass (P59, £3 toll) but going is slow as usual.  At a complicated road junction youths offer to hold the traffic up to let you cross for a fee.  Going over numerous railway crossings a man is expecting a tip for standing waving a flag to say it is clear, doesn’t the fact that he is stood there give us a clue!  Alvarado is a traditional town between the lake and the ocean and we hear there are good fish meals at the Port Authority restaurant.  Driving to the port is through busy streets but at least we are following a bus so know there is room.  We can’t find the restaurant and it is chaos but we do park on the malecon and have a laugh at a local having his go cart towed by a motorbike.  The main highway takes us away from the coast and up through the hills towards the mountains.  There’s a Soriana supermarket on the edge of San Andres Tuxtla so we make a quick shop stop.  Another motorhome appears in the car park.  Peter, Gabi and 3-year-old Tommy are from Germany and come over regularly, buy a motorhome and tour.  They are going onwards to the same campsite as us and we agree to share a boat trip tomorrow.  On the edge of town we stop at the Santa Clara cigar factory to watch them in the making.  Lake Catemaco is a lovely spot with a very rustic “La Ceiba” camping on the edge.  Had Peter not been parked up we would have driven right past.  The boat trip is arranged for 9am and we settle in.  We hear the beautiful and unusual calls of many birds and feel like we are in the jungle.  Unfortunately at sunset hundreds of birds return to nest in the trees beside us and make a terrible noise for about an hour

LAKE CATEMACO, CAMPING LA CEIBA P100 (£5) no electric

130 miles

WEDNESDAY 3 DECEMBER – The noisy night birds also spend an hour screeching beginning around 5.30am and this wakes us all up.  After they have stopped it is hard to get back to sleep over the noise of the regular birds and traffic.  Hector takes us all off on the boat.  Boat trips advertise 12 attractions but most are very minor things such as the fisherman statue on the Malecon (the same one you see walking along), a small shrine, a posh house and a run down factory that used to bottle spring water!  Another stop is a place where they bottle a powder to mix with water for mud face packs, P150 (£7.50) for a large jar.  On the eastern shore of the lake at “Nanciyaga” (www.nanciyaga.com) you pay P50 (£2.50) per person to be guided through the rainforest.  The guide only speaks Spanish but gives us a sheet in English explaining the highlights.  We are led through the forest on a meandering track over a swing bridge above natural springs.  Medicine Man staring Sean Connery was filmed here.  Visitors can pay extra for mudpack facials, massages, bathing in the hot springs and spiritual cleansing.  They have a good deal on the overnight stay at P1000 (£50) for 4 people including treatments and I am quite keen for us to do it on my birthday but that would be difficult with Whiskey the dog.  Next stop on the tour is Monkey Island where university students imported a type of baboon to study then realised the boatmen were taking tourists to the island and feeding them bananas and stuff.  The trip ends after 3-hours.  A very pleasant ride overall and a good indication of the size of the lake and at P50 (£2.50) pp good value.  Steve & I are ready to leave tomorrow but Kevin & Ruth would like to stay longer so check out alternatives in the area.  They walk to the other campground Hotel Tepetepan and say it is better than this one but the pool is not open and it is more expensive.  Steve & Kevin cycle to Hotel Azul where you are supposed to camp but they are initially reluctant to offer camping and then do so at a high price and are way out of town.  In the afternoon we walk around the town, that’s the nice part about camping here as we are near to everything. The church is very impressive with a Madonna shrine above the altar and nicely painted walls and ceilings.  Late afternoon Steve & Kevin go to the local snooker hall and are happy to be able to play for P2 (£1) hour and drink family sized huge beers for P22 (£1.10), the guy is amazed that they have one each instead of sharing!

LAKE CATEMACO 2, LA CEIBA

THURSDAY 4 DECEMBER - The birds are driving us crazy so Steve & I walk to Hotel Tepetepan campground to see if it is quieter.  Leo & Judy, whom we met at El Tajin, are there along with their friends Don and Gwyn.  We chat over coffee and they say their birds are also very noisy.  Early afternoon Leo & Judy arrive in their 4wd and Don & Gwyn in theirs.  They invite Kevin, Ruth and us to join them for a ride out to the waterfalls.  “Cascade Salto De Eyipantla” are at the end of a bad road but it turns out we could actually have driven it carefully in our motorhomes.  Car parking is in a square surrounded by stalls and with children waiting to pounce on you the minute you step out of your vehicle.  Manage to make our way through the mob to the stairs that lead to the falls, P6 (30p).  Descending more than 200 steps we reach a beautiful waterfall, slightly curved, wide and quite high with an impressive flow and enough spray to give us a bit of a shower.  They are much better than we were anticipating and well worth the ride out.  The children continue to harass us back to the car and even on the road out one has a last try by having a rope across the road that he raises and asks for payment to drop it to allow you to cross.  Considering it is not much more than a piece of string held down by a stone at one end it is no real threat.  Return for a long happy hour session outside our motorhomes.  The others have heard that there is a confirmation ceremony in town at 5pm so we walk in together.  Market stalls are selling the mud pack stuff at P70 (£3.50) for the jars that were P150 yesterday and by the kilo for P30 (£1.50) and Ruth & I decide to share a bag.  In the centre of Catemaco a stage has been erected where they are piling cases of water and cardboard boxes.  Lots of people are seated obviously waiting for the main event. Leo goes for a wander and appears on the balcony of the town hall and waves for us to join him.  There are a few Mexicans up there but many small balconies so room for us all.  We have a grandstand view and feel a bit like royalty, especially when the announcer on stage points up to us and has the rest of the crowd look up and wave.  Not sure what he is saying but everyone is laughing and seems friendly.  We have no idea what the presentation is about but deduce that it is not a confirmation but more like the hand out of Christmas care type packages.  As we walk back to our campground the others hear our birds and comment that their noisy birds are nothing by comparison, had known that we would have moved there this morning but with only one day left it is not worth it now. 

LAKE CATEMACO 3, LA CEIBA

FRIDAY 5 DECEMBER – It’s my 52^nd birthday and I would have loved a lie in but the birds have not been notified.  It is also a drizzly dull day so my ideal of being on a beach in the sun is totally shattered but hey not having to go to work and not being in and English winter is still a bonus.  Kevin & Ruth come round to wish me a Happy Birthday, give me a card and a voucher invitation to a gourmet lunch, and for a 2^nd rate back massage, facial with mud mask, pedicure, manicure and hair styling at my convenience.  I appreciate a surprising number of birthday text messages, E-mails and comments on Face book.  Lunch is a tasty curry followed by an excellent home baked cheesecake.  Unused to drinking much I started with rum and coke, had wine with lunch and kahlua in my coffee so a brief siesta is in order.  Steve & Kevin can’t resist an afternoon fix of pool.   

LAKE CATEMACO 4, LA CEIBA

SATURDAY 6 DECEMBER – Making an early start is not difficult although how we can wake up at 6 and not leave until almost 8am beats me but the water is slow to fill and they have a gravity defying dump station!  The free road to Cosoleacaque is pretty good but even so progress is slow.  Join the main dual carriageway towards Villahermosa and pass numerous trucks decorated with “Guadalupe” religious themes and loaded with people.  Our guess is that this is some sort of pilgrimage as in front of each truck is a runner with a naked flame torch.  We turn off to La Venta the place where some huge Olmec heads were found in an ancient site.  They also found oil in the same area and this took priority so they moved the relics to a museum in Villahermosa.  It’s a long slow drive out to the coast with many sections rough gravel.  The local transport is mainly “triciclos”, various versions of pedal bikes or motorcycles either towing or pushing a carriage for passengers.  Mexicans seem oblivious to rubbish but in this area they have made a bit of an effort and piled it beside the road out of town.  A great place for bird spotting if you could stand the smell!  At Sanchez Magallanes we reach the coast but beach access is difficult.  There’s a restaurant car park just over the bridge, the parking area and beach are full of rubbish and it’s not great so we continue.  It seems to be a very poor area with most homes very simple basic shacks.  We seem to be driving through huge coconut palm plantations with big hills blocking the beach; even the lagoon on the other side can only be accessed through private property.    We are a bit disappointed, as we had envisioned a nice parking spot for a few days. Things get worse when we see the road ahead has collapsed into the ocean.  There is diversion down a rough track down through the palms and Steve walks it to make sure we can get through.  Having started the drive a motorcyclist comes towards us and tells us there is a bigger problem 2 miles further ahead, the road is completely gone.  We must continue the diversion then turn around and repeat our weaving through the trees.  Luckily Kevin waited to see how we got on.  Backtracking is a bit quicker as we are no longer looking for beach access.  Bahia de Acapulco restaurant car park that did not look good before now looks most appealing, especially after 7-hour driving.  The owner says we can stay overnight.  They play music a very high volume but fortunately close when it gets dark.  Throughout the night we get a number of cars visiting us with music blaring then in the early hours the dogs begin barking so not the most restful spot but safe anyway.   

SANCHEZ MAGDALLENES, BAHIA ACAPULCO RESTAURANT CAR PARK

169 MILES

SUNDAY 7 DECEMBER – The next beach west involves a couple of kilometres detour to Playa Palebot.  We spot a makeshift sign to “La Playa” and Steve and Kevin find out that it is access through a farmer’s field.  He says we can park there in the motorhomes overnight and walk 200 metres over the hill to the beach.  The family come out to look at our strange vehicles, don’t suppose too many motorhomes pass this way!  Driving through the farmyard is interesting as “Eduardo” has to open a gate to let us into the cow pen then lock us in whilst he opens an exit gate.  Kevin gets through but we are 6” wider than him and a tree branch obstructs us.  Eduardo jumps up to break it but ends up bouncing a couple of times before it snaps, much to everyone’s amusement.  We take a spot at the far end of the field near the palm grove leading to the beach.  Walking along the beach we see no one else at all and cannot understand why such a nice beach is not more popular.  Granted there is debris on the beach but we think this is from the storms.  In the afternoon Eduardo and his family come to visit us and his son shins up the tree to get us fresh coconuts.  With his machete he makes it looks so easy to cut into them and prepare them for drinking.  The cows are unafraid of us and totally oblivious to our presence but enjoy licking the salt off the motorhomes.  Now if we could sprinkle some all over we could get the whole van washed.  

PLAYA PALEBOT, EDUARDO’S FARM

P50 (£2.50)

MONDAY 8 DECEMBER – We’ve all had a nice quiet nights sleep, even if Kevin & Ruth were disturbed at one point with a cow rubbing up on the bikes at the back of their motorhome.  Steve & I spend the morning on the beach and find the water is pleasantly warm.  Unfortunately once I have been in the water the sand flies begin to attack me so we beat a hasty retreat.  Eduardo’s sons come over to visit and bring more coconuts.  They hang around wanting to either chat or just observe us but their English in non-existent and we struggle but they do seem to enjoy looking inside the motorhome.  We learn they are called Remigio (11) and Manuel (9) and 2 of 9 children.  Their sisters Maliza and Alberta also come down.  Think they have heard we have been giving out small gifts.  Whiskey helps entertain them by performing a few tricks and then they watch us playing cards and learn the phrase “pass”. 

PLAYA PALEBOT, FARMER EDUARDO’S FIELD

TUESDAY 9 DECEMBER – As usual we try to leave by 8am to give us chance to arrive at our destination by lunchtime and time in hand for unforeseen delays.  Before we even get off the farm we have a delay.  The track is narrow and we have to wind between trees and tree stumps.  On the two-way radio we warn Kevin of a narrow bit with a stump but he has the sun in his eyes and misjudges it.  We get a call to say they have totally wrecked their doorstep and are stuck.  Walk back to find that it is no exaggeration and the two-tier step has been ripped off and is mangled up against the rear tyres.  It seems to have bent back easily but when Steve & Kevin try to push it back into place it is impossible and they end up having to take it all off.  Knowing the resourceful Mexicans there is an outside chance of a repair so Kevin puts it in the locker.  We return to the main highway towards Villahermosa but take the free leg, which is a good run.  Head back out to the coast at Paraiso but have great trouble finding the recommended beach there.  Finally give up, as the signage is poor at best.  We pick up the road heading east along the coast but on the outskirts of town encounter a junction with a triple vertical stop light over the left lane and a seemingly broken light over our lane.  As soon as we continue a motorcycle policeman on the opposite side turns around to pull us over.  We tell Kevin & Ruth to keep going but the policeman indicates for them to pull up ahead.  He speaks no English and we pretend to speak almost no Spanish but hand him our fake English drivers licence and vehicle documents and understand he is accusing us of going through a red light.  He jabbers away in Spanish and we present him with our phrase book but he doesn’t want to book accommodation, catch a plane or visit the doctor so it is not much use to him.  We point to the phrase “sorry” and hope he will get frustrated and let us leave.  A local comes over and seems to be telling the policeman to let us go.  He gets his book and is poised to write a ticket.  At this point the local suggests we might want to pay the policeman something.  This was the line we were going down ourselves but didn’t want to seem to eager to offer a bribe but now seems a good time and P100 (£5) makes him a happy copper.  Kevin & Ruth, who have pulled up ahead, get off lightly as it seems our donation covers us all.  Making a slow and cautious exit through the rest of the town we begin an enjoyable drive past interesting lagoons and though many small villages.  Here the people seem more prosperous and we even see some huge new mansions being built.  It’s amazing how they use such bright and clashing colour combinations on the outside walls, bright pink with orange and lots of lime green with electric purple.  Leading up to Christmas many homes have small shrines set up in their entryway and the churches have flags outside.  Just before Chiltepec we turn off at a sign to Playa Belotte and at the end of a 1km track find an area to the right with parking by palapas beside a closed down restaurant.  It’s not a brilliant area but most acceptable in the middle of the afternoon.  Sit out on the beach until sunset.

CHILTEPEC, PLAYA BELOTTE

WEDNESDAY 10 DECEMBER – Drive around the cute little village of Chiltepec before managing to find the main road out.  Further along the coast The Rough Guide recommends Playa Azul and this turns out to be an attractive beach at the end of a main road with a nice grassy area for motorhome parking.  By 9.30am we are settled in our new spot sitting out looking over the ocean.  Kevin sets about fixing his step whilst Steve and I go for a walk into the town.  There’s a large school, a small public library (with less books than we have) and a couple of shops so thankfully not a lot to explore, as it is really very hot.  Kevin & Ruth join us for lunch followed by a card session.  They take Whiskey for a walk and I intend going for a swim before showering but notice the sky has suddenly turned very dark and decide to skip the swim part.  I have just got soaped up when it starts to rain heavily.  Steve has to bring all our stuff in and shut the windows and do what he can for Kevin & Ruth as they are not back.  The storm gets much worse with very strong winds and torrential rain.  Think someone must have forgotten to tell the weather that the hurricane season finished at the end of November.  Join Kevin & Ruth for evening cards and part of a movie.   

PLAYA AZUL

THURSDAY 11 DECEMBER – After a noisy night with the wind and rain hammering us we get up early.  Steve & Kevin are not keen to drive in this wind so we will sit the storm out here.  When the rain stops Kevin & Ruth go for a walk and tell us the school seems closed today, the children were there yesterday so this is strange.  Later in the day we hear lots of firecrackers going off so maybe there is some kind of celebration.  Take the opportunity of fixing up one of the 2 new blinds that we have bought and then spend the day reading and playing numerous games of cards with our neighbours.  Talk through a new tour plan that will put us on a campground in Merida city over Christmas and Cancun for New Year.  Feels a bit like New Year already with all the firecrackers going off but they are not a nice type and just make a terrific single bang like a loud gun shot, Whiskey hates them

PLAYA AZUL 2

FRIDAY 12 DECEMBER – The storm seems to have passed but it’s not a great day so the consensus of opinion is to drive a bit further.  I read up that it is a public holiday today for the “Virgin of Guadalupe” so that explains the rockets and also the pilgrims that we saw as their banners said Guadalupe.  It seems that celebrations vary from nothing up to whole villages congregating together for a communal meal.  At the junction with the main Mex 180 we stop at the Pemex station for gas, water and when we notice they have a proper dump station we make us of it after having a nice shower.  We are now on the “Ruta Sol Y Playa”, route of the sun and beaches so right up our street.  Near Frontera we turn of to Playa Del Bosque, for the first time we are on the worst level of roads shown on the map.  It’s a bit bumpy in parts and narrower than normal but we can still make it through and traverse wetlands with lily ponds and water buffalo.  The beach area is not worth the journey as we cannot get to what looks to be the best part and the alternatives are not great.  Entering Campeche state we are stopped and a nice guard who speaks reasonable English inspects our fridge for pork, chicken or eggs.  We knew these we banned so ate them rather than have them confiscated.  Mex 180 is the main highway along the coast and runs between the ocean and lagoons but also a swampy area with mangroves.  In Atasta we find a nice parking spot for lunch by the lagoon but it’s a bit early to stop for the night.  An impressive bridge leads us onto Isle Del Carmen; at least we can see where the P123 (£6.15) toll money goes.  Attempt to drive along the malecon but the road veers off into the town and looks narrow.  Luckily we have an escape route around the main square and the added bonus of seeing the really impressive Christmas decorations that they are just putting up.  Can’t quite make out whether it is a gingerbread theme or Disney but all looks beautiful.  Driving around Ciudad Del Carmen in no fun, even with their interesting roundabout features.  It’s the usual busy city traffic that seems to go on forever with the added worry of missing a red light!  We would rather have the little villages with all the topes than this. Further east we leave Isle Del Carmen over another expensive toll bridge, P121 (£6.05) and check out the free camping we have read about in Isla Aguada.  It’s at the old ferry port but not inviting and in a very poor area where kids keep calling out wanting money.  The nearby campground is our back up plan and at P240 (£12) night Steve & Kevin expect great things but are not impressed.  All the people there are from Quebec and parked very close together along the shoreline.  We would have to park on a bit of waste ground at the side.  The price is totally non-negotiable even if we don’t need electric etc so we decide not to stay.  It’s a difficult decision as it is almost 4pm so we head off quickly.  For the first time in Mexico we drive for miles with a very narrow strip of land between us and the beach and no possible places to park up.  I even consider asking the military if we can park in their compound overnight when we reach a check point.  Just as it is starting to get dark we spot a restaurant on the beach with a big car park.  Viaducto Playa is on the Peninsula El Palmar and the owner says we are fine to park overnight and safe because they live there.  Other than the fact we are near the road it’s a nice spot.  So having set off around 8.30am it is almost 5pm when we park up and still only 154 miles covered! 

PENINSULA EL PALMAR, VIADUCTO PLAYA RESTAURANT

154 MILES

SATURDAY 13 DECEMBER – We have a restless nights sleep and wake to a beautiful morning.  This is a lovely beach area but not an option for another night.  Before we are ready to leave with see 8 motorhomes going past in a caravan, probably the ones we saw in Isla Aguada campground yesterday.   Unfortunately we catch up with them in Champoton and have to queue behind them at the gas station.  Reckon it must take them the best part of an hour to get through as many have tow cars to tank up as well.  No one acknowledges us even though we smile a greeting.  We hope they are taking the main highway to Campeche, as we want to cruise along the coast road.  “Tucan Siho-Playa” is an amazing hotel created by resurrecting an old henequen fiber ranch.  They have wi-fi so we sit outside doing Internet and manage to get our Christmas messages.  There is a grassy area adjoining the hotel so maybe we could camp there and use the hotel facilities.  The receptionist thinks it would be OK but the manager will not be back for a couple of hours.  We will continue and phone up later if we haven’t found anything.  Seybaplaya is a small traditional and interesting fishing village where the boats have large poles angled out at the front and back of them.  Just beyond the village a local directs us towards the port at Payucan saying there is a beach around to the right of it.  It is a narrow road but we make it to the beach area strewn with derelict palapas.  It’s not looking good until I walk to the end of the road and discover a disused basketball court behind the ocean.  With hard standing parking and our own mini beach with a palapa each we are very happy.  Kevin even manages to get a feint Internet signal from the port.  On our right is a loading ramp and mid afternoon a couple of tub boats arrive and begin to tow the huge platform, complete with cranes, out to sea.  As to what they are collecting or delivering we have no idea but suspect the platform is some kind of dredger. 

PUNTA SEYBAPLAYA, PAYUCAN PLAYA

63 MILES

SUNDAY 14 DECEMBER – Wake to a perfect day after a nice quiet night.  Whilst I take a morning dip Steve has a bit of a snorkel but says it is too cloudy.  A few people come down throughout the day but it’s pretty quiet.  After watching an evening movie at Kevin & Ruths we hear loud music.  Steve goes for a walk and realises it is not from our beach area but sounds more like a disco over the hill.  Unfortunately it goes on until after 1am.

PUNTA SEYBAPLAYA 2, PAYUCAN PLAYA

MONDAY 15 DECEMBER – Kevin & Ruth are keen to move on this afternoon partly due to the noisy disco and fisherman this morning.  We rather like it here so will catch up with them in Campeche.  It’s granddaughter Natasha’s 9^th birthday so we walk up the hill to the port to get phone signal and send her a message.  It is so hot in the afternoon that I keep wandering over to our private beach for a cooling dip. A few clouds gather late afternoon giving us a really stunning sunset with the sky on fire.  Instead of the disco we get a car parked nearby but their music is much quieter and doesn’t go on so late so we get a good nights sleep. PUNTA SEYBPLAYA 3, PAYUCAN PLAYA

                                         AND ALL THE BEST FOR 2009

Seasons greetings once again as another year has flown by.  Hope this finds you well and that you have had a good year.

On the family front we have hatch, match and dispatch news. 

There has been one addition of a great niece Ebony (born to Steve’s sister Annette’s son Stuart) and Glen’s sister Annette is getting married to Ian next March, happily no deaths to report. 

Health wise Glen’s Mum had a hip replacement operation early in the year and was walking well but later in the year had a fall and needed the other one replaced.  Steve’s Dad had a pacemaker fitted in November and sounded better for it.  Everyone else is doing well. 

Claire is working with the same company and starting a course to become a chartered accountant whilst David is presently back fitting windows.        

We are both very well and needless to say still enjoying our nomadic lifestyle after an unbelievable 12 years on the road.  Many new friends have been made with the people we have visited through the various hospitality groups we are members of and this has enhanced our travel experience greatly.

At the end of last year we were in Mexicotouring around with our Canadian friends Ruth & Kevin following in their motorhome. We made it all the way down Baja California and at the tip of Cabo San Lucas had our English motorhoming friends Claire & Malcolm fly out to join us for 5 weeks. 

We shipped across to Mazatlan on the mainland where Kevin & Ruth headed off to Florida.  Touring down the coast we visited many small fishing villages then dropped Claire & Malcolm in Puerta Vallarta before venturing further south – alone in Mexico for the first time. 

All the horror stories we had heard proved unfounded and we had a fantastic time and found the people extremely friendly, helpful and with a good sense of humour.  We enjoyed Mexico so much and the motorhome was going really well that instead of selling it and ending our trip in June we decided to return to Mexico for the next winter. 

After a most enjoyable journey through  Texas, Louisiana, Alabama and Georgia we picked up the coast to travel through Florida to visit our friend Ricky in Miami.  There we had a good time being shown the area by a local and were glad not to have to drive the motorhome in the horrendous traffic. 

Near Orlando we parked Harry at Cypress Cove Resort.  Our Australian friends Ken & Kay flew in to visit us and to “house sit” whilst we flew back to England for 5 weeks. 

It was great to catch up with family and friends but after a couple of weeks the English summer weather was getting to us.  We’d had only ever had E-mail correspondence with fellow motorhomers Arf & Jean but arranged to meet up with them to do a 1 week cruise on the Nile in Egypt.  It turned out to be a fantastic trip with African Safaris in good company.  Even taking into account all the things we have already seen we were seriously impressed with the different temples and the pyramids.

When we flew back to Florida we took our youngest grandchildren Natasha (8) and Daniel (10) with us.  They had never been on such long flights before but coped admirably.  For the first time Harry had to accommodate 6 of us as Ken & Kay stayed on for a few nights.  It worked out really well although holding the maximum of 8 would have been pushing it.

We had a great week at Cypress Cove resort, and must have increased the profits of the sunscreen companies judging by the gallons we slapped onto the kids.  Moving up into Orlando we had bought 7-day tickets for Sea World and Aquatica and got great pleasure from seeing Daniel and Natasha enjoying the rides and shows. 

After 2 weeks Claire & Daz flew out to join us on the Disney campground.  This was the focus of the holiday and we visited every Disney attraction at least once and managed a break at the coast in the middle.  Having our grandchildren alone for 2 weeks and then the whole family together worked out really well and it was quite strange once they left. 

Reckon we must have picked up a hurricane special price as we got a real deal on a 4-day cruise to The Bahamas at the beginning of September.  Unfortunately Steve walked into a glass partition wall in the departure hall and almost knocked himself senseless, or did he?  Coupled with the change of cruise itinerary due to a hurricane coming through things did not work out quite as well as we had anticipated but we did enjoy half a day in Nassau and now want to visit more Caribbean islands.

We took our time following the coast back to Texas, met many new friends and really enjoyed places like New Orleans and San Antonio.  In November Kevin & Ruth met up with us to return to Mexico  This trip is to be down the east coast, across the bottom then up the west.  At one stage we hoped to drive down to Panama but the high cost of insurance was the last of many obstacles that we encountered and we threw the towel in on that plan.  We still hope to do a few of the countries in Central America by back packing from southern Mexico.  We think we will be spending Christmas on a campground on the outskirts of Merida city and New Year in Cancun but nothing confirmed.

Next spring or summer we will sell Harry and move on to pastures new.  If you know of anyone who wants to buy a very well laid out, reliable and much loved motorhome  then do let us know.  As a bonus we would leave all the contents and provide information on registration and insurance etc.

It is always good to hear news from our friends and family so please send us an E-mail when you have chance.  Visitors always welcome especially whilst we have this large motorhome.

I will be posting my diary entries and a few photos twice a month on the web site www.glenswatman.spaces.live.com but if you would like to receive the diary by E-mail once a month then please let me know, as I will be starting a new list for 2009.

Also when my laptop died I got a new one with Vista and this will not open my address file so I would appreciate it if you would tell me which E-mail address you prefer to use, your mailing address (and home address if different), phone numbers etc so I can begin a new one.    

Love and best wishes from

Steve and Glen

SUNDAY 16 NOVEMBER – We sleep well, even though I have to get up and put a second duvet on when it gets really cold, and don’t wake up until almost 8am.  I do a last minute stock up of things that are hard to find in Mexico such as strong cheese, beef and bacon.  Kevin has a problem with Sherman and needs a new alternator.  Drive him across town to pick one up as he can fit it himself.  By mid afternoon he has figured that the new one is faulty and that another must be ordered.  Whilst it’s a very convenient place to park, and shop, you can’t exactly set your table and chairs out so we play cards in Sherman in the afternoon and again at our place after I have cooked us a roast dinner.  Steve’s taking this very seriously as he has organised a league table for the time whilst we are with Kevin & Ruth

BROWNSVILLE 2, WAL MART

MONDAY 17 NOVEMBER – A bonus of being parked here is that every time I think of something we need I can nip in the store and buy it.  Reckon I am averaging a visit every 2 hours so Mr Wal Mart will be pleased.  Steve also cashes in and buys and fits Harry with a new air filter.  There’s a motorhome parked next to us and a ticket in the window says it has been unattended for a work.  Security are getting a bit concerned, we hope there is no one dead inside it.  Police and other people are called to assess the situation.  We miss the outcome, as Kevin needs taking to collect the new alternator.  Call in at Staples to do some photocopying.  We’ve been advised to get good colour copies of all documents and to laminate copied drivers licences to avoid handing over originals.  Staples are not allowed to do this but you can use their self-serve machines to do it yourself.  The results are really excellent.  Arrive back at Wal Mart when Kevin asks for their driver’s licences back.  We beat a hasty retreat to Staples to find them all still in the machine!  The alternator solves Kevin’s problem so we are mobile again and head to host Shawns place where he has said we can park in the street.  Behind his house is a network of canals and a picnic area.  Pull up and Steve checks with the neighbours opposite that we are not going to be a problem.  Everyone in this area is Mexican looking, very laid back and not the least bit bothered by us being there.  Ruth, Whiskey and I take one of the many walks around the canals and it is really pleasant.  Unfortunately Shawn never arrives home, we think this is a second home, but we stay the night anyway as one of the neighbours works for the council and says it is OK.

BROWNSVILLE 3, HOUSING ESTATE

TUESDAY 18 NOVEMBER – The news from England is good.  Steve’s Dad had a pacemaker fitted today and is back on the ward drinking tea.  My Mum is now walking on just one stick and physio is down to once a week.  At 7.45am we head to the Veterans International Bridge, $7 (£5) motorhome toll.  Good parking by a redundant gas station enables us to walk back to the American immigration to hand in our visas.  On the Mexican side we are flagged over so they can check the 10-year permits for the vehicles that we got last year.  We stay in line and walk to the office for the tourist visas.  A few yards further we are stopped for another inspection, this time just a walk around by armed guards.  Drive into MEXICO in the city of Metamoros.  Immediately join the ring road and using the “Mexico Campground” directions connect to the main Mex 101 road south towards Victoria.  It is obvious we are in a Mexican city, poor and congested roads, haphazard traffic and people actually walking around!  There are lots of places to get propane (could have saved ourselves quite a wild goose chase on Saturday) so we top up and head off.  Roadblocks are frequent but the guards are all very courteous.  The final one is more thorough as we have to step out of the motorhome whilst a guard and dog go inside.  The dog bounces round on the bed then the guard lifts the bed to check the storage underneath and does the same with the sofa.  Reckon I should have put newspaper on the cream bedspread as well as over the new carpet.  The guard asks where we are from and associates Great Britain with London.  He then goes to Kevin & Ruth and asks if Great Britain is connected to Canada!  They try to explain whilst Whiskey barks at the guard who then decides not to enter their motorhome.  We’re in flat farming country, traffic is light and the driving is easy once we get into Mexico mode of pulling half onto the hard shoulder to let people pass.  Stop in the first largish town of “San Fernando De Presas” to use the ATM.  Last year we were getting Pesos 22 - £1 this year it is down to just under Pesos 20 but that is not bad compared to the drop in the USA $ from over $2 to £1 down to less than $1.50 = £1 this last few days.   Where we turn off to Tampico on the Mex 180 there is a gas station with huge parking area and this works well for lunch.  Too early to stop for the day we press on into hilly country.  Unfortunately the RV dry camping by Lavanderos Lake, mentioned in Sanborns log, no longer exists.  A few miles South we cross the Tropic of Cancer marked by a crumbling small yellow ball.  We only have a couple of hours daylight left so at the next Pemex station, about 15 miles south, we ask if we can park overnight.  The friendly owner leads us to a grassy area round the back and he and his mate seem very happy with a couple of beers each as payment.  There’s a big American coach here and Steve & Kevin chat to the owner.  Kevin Mayo owns a fishing camp 1/8-mile from here and invites us to walk over and visit tomorrow.  Sitting out on the lawn Kevin cooks up hamburgers for us on his BBQ then we round of the day with cards.

15-MILES SOUTH LAVADEROS. PEMEX STATION

217 MILES

WEDNESDAY 19 NOVEMBER – The fishing camp is on the edge of the lake.  When we get there the Mexican manager shows us around and explains the set up.  Fishermen are brought here from Louisiana on the couch the front of which is like an RV at the front with lots of lounge seating, a dinette, kitchen and bathroom.  However the rear half has been built with 3 tiered bunk beds to sleep 12.  AT the camp they have simple en suite accommodation, get their meals in the dining room, drink in the palapa overlooking the lake and of course go fishing every day.  We tell Kevin it would make a great RV stop and he asks us how to promote it that way.  Continuing our journey south we pass many ranches as we traverse the hilly green countryside.  Aldana is the largest town for miles so we do a quick shop but the few internet signals are secured.  Its 39lm of often rough and pot holed road to the beach.  It looks like a very pleasant area with a few restaurants, palapas with tables and dubious looking electric sockets and a grassy area at the far end, which is where we pull up.  The nearby restaurant owner introduces himself, tell us we are fine parking there and offers water, electric and whatever else we may want.  Of course he also mentions we can drink and eat in his restaurant which we will in due course.  We soon have our camp set out and spend the rest of the day relaxing.  Kevin is very happy and says this is just what he has travelled 3000 miles for.  Ruth treats Whiskey with some pesticide drops to stop her getting fleas and ticks.  We join them to watch the DVD Juno, an unusual and funny story about a teenager who gets pregnant.  By evening Whiskey is not a happy puppy.

BARRA EL TORDO BEACH

54 MILES

THURSDAY 20 NOVEMBER – We had a bit of rain in the night but it is hot and sunny by 8am.  Kevin & Ruth had a bad night with Whiskey and ended up having to wash the rest of the stuff off.  Take a long walk south along the beach but other than some palapas that could only be reached with a 4wd along the beach there is nothing but miles and miles of sand.  I invite K&R to join us for lunch and we sit out having a curry enjoying our beachside setting.  The beach gets busy in the afternoon with locals walking along, some kids playing football and a few youths messing around in a yellow Corvette jacked up on truck 4wd chassis.  We go in for a swim and the water is the perfect temperature.  Can’t understand why more motorhomes don’t come here.  Cards at ours in the evening and we refresh K&R’s memories on canasta.  Occasional rain through the night but if it’s going to rain then that’s the best time for us.  

BARRA EL TORDO 2

FRIDAY 21 NOVEMBER – Unfortunately cooler weather is coming in from the north and bringing a bit more rain.  Pass the time playing Euchre at K&R’s in the morning and Canasta at ours in the afternoon.  Delivery vans drop off supplies, tables and chairs to the restaurant for the fishing competition.  Watch a DVD about the supposed 9/11 conspiracy in the evening but instead of answering questions it just raises more.

BARRA EL TORDO 3

SATURDAY 22 NOVEMBER – It’s the day of the fishing competition and the guy has a marquee out on the beach but seemingly no entrants.  It is a poor day but we also suspect that his advertising was a bit sketchy to say the least.  Decide that we will all go over there for lunch and have a most enjoyable fish dinner for Pesos 50 (£2.50) each and this includes tortilla chips and extremely hot salsa to start with.  We are his only customers so Claudio seems happy to have our business and hangs around chatting to us.  We suspect that the beer company Tecate have sponsored the competition as the party tent and other stuff has their Tecate Light sign on and that is the only drink he has to sell.  He has postponed it until a week tomorrow.  Tell him we will probably leave tomorrow if the weather is not great and he tells us of a short cut road to Tampico, at least we thing that’s what he has said. Apparently this northerly wind has brought cold weather to much of the states with Houston getting ice.  The beach is busy in the afternoon, kids playing football, quad bikes racing along as well as the jacked up Corvette.  Good entertainment.   

BARRA EL TORDO 4

SUNDAY 23 NOVEMBER – Back track towards Aldana then take the turn off towards Maron.  The road is reasonable for the first few kilometres but becomes pot holed and bumpy.  Kevin is in the lead and we take note of his slalom course to avoid the worst holes.  Our map does not show a bridge over the River Tiger connecting with the onward road but Claudio assured us there was one.  We arrive at the river with no way forwards.  When we get out of the motorhomes we are very happy to see the bridge upstream.  Getting onto it is a bit of a challenge as the ramp leading up to it is just a pile of large pebbles.  Beyond the bridge the road is good and we pick up speed.  This is a citrus growing area and we do a drive through style purchase of a bag of Satsuma style oranges for P10 (50p).  Tampico is a nightmare of traffic but again the Mexican Camping book gives us good directions to lead us to the otherwise un-sign posted by pass.  At the first toll both we are charged the cargo price of P39 (£2).  The road deteriorates so we can only assume the toll was for the stretch before it.  A second toll of P10 (50p) gets us over a bridge and on to a really shocking stretch of road where pedestrians make quicker progress than vehicles.  We’ve chosen to do some driving today figuring traffic would be lighter but there are still lots of trucks around and the road is very busy.  Drivers have little patience and overtake on blind bends and going up hills.  As if the bad road surface is not slowing us down enough we have to contend with the “topes” (sleeping policemen) in the villages.  Many of them have no warning so locals have taken to standing at the edge pointing them out in the hope of a tip.  It is really slow progress and hard work for the drivers so when we see an RV park we check it out.  They will not negotiate the $15 (£7.50) for camping with no facilities and say that we must park right near the main road in a muddy area, no thank you.  To avoid Tuxpan we take the Alamo by pass.  It’s getting late so we settle for free camping at the first Pemex that we see.  They sell diesel as well as regular petrol so it is frequented by trucks but at least we will be safe and in fact further off the road than at the campground.  We settle on a spot at the back near some grass.  Stepping out of the vehicles we are surrounded by young children.  They want to clean our windscreens with their dirty water and mucky rags!  Attempt to have a bit of a chat with them but they won’t go away.  Decide that if we give them all a small gift they will leave us in peace but it actually makes them worse and we end up wishing we had not bothered.  Shut ourselves inside the motorhomes until they eventually go away.  After 7 hours hard driving we have come just 187 miles but it feels like much more and we are all exhausted and opt for an early night.  Unfortunately a truck pulls up right beside us and seems to have engine problems as they keep returning to it and revving it up then going off again.

N OF ALAMO, PEMEX 4131

187 MILES

MONDAY 24 NOVEMBER – Set off fairly early and find the road improves somewhat, well relatively so!  There are many really big topes that almost make you come to a stop and vendors make the most of it by standing there with their wares.  Pull up at the roadside stalls and pick up a huge bag of oranges for P20 (£1) and a bunch of 40 miniature bananas for P10 (50p).  Make a wrong turn into Poza Rica but this works well as we stop at a gas station to ask directions and find ourselves next to the local market.  The produce looks very good quality and we pick up tomatoes at P10 (50p) kilo, onions P12 (60p) kilo, potatoes P8 (40p) and 2 green peppers for P10 (50p).  All the stalls charge the same price so Ruth and I meander amongst them and try to by a little from each one.  Further along the “wrong” road we see a huge Soriana supermarket and do our first proper grocery shop in Mexico.  We’ve been seeing signs for El Tajin archaeological site for over 200km’s and this is our destination a bit further south.  Entrance to the site is down a dual carriageway but street stalls have covered more than half the lanes meaning we almost hook and handbag with our bumper.  The parking attendant says we can stay overnight and the charge is P20 (£1).  Settle in to a corner spot and have lunch.  Admission including museum is P48 (£2.50).  The museum gives us a good overall picture with the model of the site.  Once we enter the real site we are impressed by the large collection of buildings.  We wander through the area reading signs pointing out the function of the most important buildings, in Spanish and English.  You can no longer climb any of the pyramids but we do get an overview from the hill at the far end of the site. Whiskey to dog has been allowed in and when a fellow tourist takes a photo of us all together it makes me think we look like an older version of Enid Blyton’s Famous Five checking out the mystery of the ancient ruins!  Highlight of the site is “The Piramide de los Nichos” and the best example the 13 ball courts is the south one with some good bass reliefs.    At the entrance to the site “The Voladores de Papantla” perform their ritual dance that involves 4 men gliding down from the top of a pole on a rope.  Late afternoon another motorhome arrives.  Leo & Judy are from British Columbia and have been coming to Mexico for 11 years but never to this area. 

EL TAJIN

51 MILES

TUESDAY 25 NOVEMBER – Make a late start for the coast.  Navigate the notoriously difficult Papantla easily (from El Tajin, left to Papantla, left at T junc sign Poza Rica and Tecolutla, right at next T junc sign GZ Zamora, straight on until you veer right onto main Mex 180 to coast).  Toll over the bridge is P31 (£1.60) and then we reach the coast. It is obviously a holiday area as the road is lined with stalls selling beachwear.  The main road runs very close to the beach leaving just enough space for small homes, hotels and tiny campsites, impossible for us to access.  Kevin needs Internet and has negotiated to stay at D’Alba, which looks really nice on the web site.  Mike meets us at the gate, says the best price they can offer is $90 (£60) week or $15 (£10) night if we don’t take electric, a bit of a joke as the electric is off anyway and they only have power when he runs the generator.  It all looks a bit run down but we reluctantly take a spot near the beach thinking that maybe everywhere is the same.  Mike dashes off into town before we get chance to check things out thoroughly and realise how bad it is.  It is a cloudy day so we are not seeing it at its best but even so there is no Internet and the swimming pool has not been cleaned for ages.  When I go to have a shower the toilet block is dirty, there is only cold water and the walls are mouldy with paint peeling off.  None of us are thrilled so Steve & Kevin go off on the bikes and come back with news of a much nicer place further on and cheaper too.  Leave a note for Mike and head to Mision Del Mar Hotel with a lovely big swimming pool and grassy camping area beside it.  Beyond the swimming pool towards the beach is a huge concrete pad backed by a big wall with a giant cross.  Suspect that this is the “chapel” their sign mentions and boy would it make a stunning location for a wedding.  Although the shower block is clean and tiled there is no hot water but they give us a key so we can use the bathroom in one of their hotel rooms.  P70 (£3.50) pp per night also includes electric and Internet – no contest.  Spend the afternoon catching up on messages.  Steve goes for a stroll even further along the beach and makes us laugh when he says he has found an even better deal.  It doesn’t have Internet but everything else at Casitas del Tajin is on a par with this place and even cheaper at P47 (£2.40) pp so may move there tomorrow.   

COSTA ESMERALDA, (JUST N OF CASITAS) MISION DEL MAR HOTEL CAMPGROUND, P70 (£3.50) pp inc electric

44 MILES

WEDNESDAY 26 NOVEMBER – Wake to a lovely sunny day so we all go for a walk along the beach to check out the next place.  It is as Steve reported and you can camp directly above the beach on hard standing, much better for Whiskeys paws than the grass with prickly things.  Having caught up with our Internet we decide to move.  After a nice swim in the pool at Mision Del Mar we pack up to drive a few hundred metres to our next spot.  We take the last two sites before the beach as the only other camper, Jim from Kansas, has taken one further in.  Literally a few metres from the beach it will probably be noisy with the waves crashing in but we’ll take ocean noise over traffic any night.  In fact looking along the coast it looks like some people are trying to extend their properties onto the beach area using different types of barriers.  This doesn’t always work as we see many “half houses” hanging on the bank with the broken walls in the sand below.  Whilst Steve & Kevin go off for a cycle ride I make the most of the nearby water supply to begin giving the van a thorough clean.  The lad’s return and joke that they have found a cheaper place, they have at P30 pp a night but they say it is really grotty and this seems to be the best around.  When we come to pay we find out that they have a sliding scale and have arrived at the cheapest time but it goes up tomorrow.    We are all very happy here so don’t mind and we can see the logic behind it other than the Thursday night increase.  During the cycle ride they also found a bar with TV showing football in the next village of Casitas so Steve & Kevin go off in the afternoon for Steve to watch the match and Kevin to do Internet. 

COSTA ESMERALDA 2, CASITAS DEL TAJIN CAMPGROUND

Sun – Wednesday camping is P47 (£2.40), Thursday night P58.50 (£3), Friday P70 (£3.50) and Saturday P80 (£4) per person

1 MILE

THURSDAY 27 NOVEMBER – Thanksgiving Day in America but more importantly Ruth’s birthday.  When she comes back from her morning jog she thanks us for our gift and card.  We’ve collected a couple of coconuts that have fallen from the trees and Steve & Kevin attempt to get into them to make a pina colada drink for Ruth.  We’ve seen it done before, very easily with a machete, but with an axe and saw it is far more entertaining.  There are now self service laundries around here so we set about doing a load by hand and soon have it out on a line between two palm trees. We invite Ruth and Kevin to “Harrys at Casita El Tajin, waterfront restaurant for lunch.  Improvise a menu giving them lots of choices.  For main course they can opt for Chilli con carne, Glen’s spicy stew or mince with onions, peppers, beans, garlic and chilli!  We’ve got a stunning location with the table out on the terrace.  Steve acts as the wine waiter with a tea towel over his arm and the 5-litre box of red wine balanced on top.  We begin our meal with nachos served with warm cheese sauce, sour cream, salsa and Mexican sauce.  When we get to the rice and chilli con carne I realise I have forgotten to add the chilli but we manage to pep it up by adding hot salsa.  Fresh fruit salad in brandy is served with custard followed by coffee and brandy, cheese and biscuits.  It is the first birthday Ruth has had outside Canada so you’ve just got to do the going in the ocean thing so we all head into the ocean for a quick game of Frisbee.  The water is really quite warm, in fact much warmer than the pool that we migrate to afterwards.  What is really nice about the set up here is that you have the same facilities as the hotel guests at a fraction of the cost.  Jim comes round for an early evening drink.  He is travelling alone and spends much of his time pursuing his photography hobby.  He lends us his “People’s guide to Mexico” which makes very interesting reading.  

COSTA ESMERALDA 3, CASITAS DEL TAJIN

FRIDAY 28 NOVEMBER – Mid morning Whitney & Jan arrive.  I’ve been in E-mail contact with them since Whitney replied to one of my forum postings about Central America.  They toured there last year so we hope to learn more about the area; although now we are not taking the motorhome in we are a little less eager.  Whitney built their 4wd motorhome from the chassis upwards and has pretty much the perfect vehicle to go anywhere but this year is taking a relaxing trip on ordinary roads within Mexico.  They have two large red Dobermans, Sassy & Josh, with them and we are amazed how quiet and placid they are.  We get together again in the early evening for “Happy Hour” and a chat.  I’m really impressed with the “Moon” guide they are using for the Pacific Coast; although I do use the Internet for research I am a book person at heart.

COSTA ESMERALDA 4, CASITAS DEL TAJIN

SATURDAY 29 NOVEMBER – Witney & Jan move on followed shortly by Jim who is going to stay at a nearby resort where he is doing photography work for them.  There is no automatic laundry around here so Steve & I tackle our sheets by hand.  With the sunny morning and breezy afternoons drying should not be a problem.  We walk back to Mision Hotel to catch up on Internet but the connection is frustratingly bad.  In the evening we watch the Catherine Cookson film “The Cinder Path” and recognise many of the locations where it was filmed, a million miles away from the scenery round here for sure.

COSTA ESMERALDA 5, CASITAS DEL TAJIN

SUNDAY 30 NOVEMBER – There’s a change in the weather with a northerly wind.  Ruth invites us for a clam chowder lunch, perfect in the cooler weather.  Just after we have gone to bed we get the rain but it is not bad.  Last winter we had no rain whatsoever in Mexico so I reckon this is because we have arrived earlier and within a couple more weeks we should have no more. COSTA ESMERALDA 6, CASI