200802

FRIDAY 1 FEBRUARY 2008 – During breakfast we are entertained by a bullfight.  Two herds of cattle have appeared, one down each side of the arroyo, and they need to establish territory.  We all gather with our cameras and Malcolm takes a chance in getting close with his video obviously confident that bulls are colour blind as he is wearing a red shirt.  Malcolm helps Steve to make a template of the broken mirror then Randy drives them up to the local glass place where they can have on cut by 5pm.  It’s a busy day back at camp as a caravan of 3 vehicles arrives and the leading one gets stuck in the sand big time.  Before anyone can come up with a plan to help he has unhitched his tow car and driven off to return about 10 minutes later with a JCB following him.  The motorhome is too stuck for the digger to pull him out but it ends up turning around and bit by bit winching the vehicle out.  As soon as he is free the convoy drive off to the adjoining campground.  Work continues on the repair at the back of our van (the damage was done when we bought it) with more layers of fibreglass being added and sanded.  Needless to say the mirror is not ready at 5pm but promised for tomorrow, seems like the same laid back syndrome that affects Spain.  Ron a friends of the 2 Randy’s arrives and joins us all for an evening meal at the hot dog stand.  On return we round off the evening with 3 more games of “Left, Right and Centre” and this goes down well with Claire and Kevin who each win a round.

LOS BARRILES, NORTH BEACH. 5

SATURDAY 2 FEBRUARY – The wind has finally dropped and it’s a beautiful calm day enabling Kevin to spray undercoat on the repair job.  Steve & I walk the 2km to town and pick up the mirror, 100 pesos (£5).  Walking back we are just about to cross the dusty riverbed when a car backs up and asks if we would like a lift.  It’s no one we know but Canadian Ron introduces himself and then proceeds to take us up the back streets to show us a house he is having built.  The basic construction here is strong corner pillars to hold up the roof but the rest of the walls are thick sheets of polystyrene with a panel of cross wires on either side then cement stuck onto that.  He then insists on taking us up to meet his wife Joan who is staying in a rented house above the arroyo.  He tells her he has kidnapped us so that she can have some company.  They offer us a snack and drink and we stay chatting for an hour or so until Ron is ready to return to the house building and drop us off.  Late afternoon Ruth brings down tasty spaghetti bolognaise for us all to share and I cook up the Christmas pudding for dessert and add rum to the custard.  Retire inside to all play cards but break off to look out at some beach fireworks that we think are for the birthday of the little girl who made the zoo.

LOS BARRILES 6

SUNDAY 3 FEBRUARY – Luckily it’s another calm day so the topcoat of paint can be sprayed on.  The can says brilliant white but it must be a Mexican brilliant white as it comes out in a cream colour, a delicate shade of peach!  As a disclaimer the can does say that the colour may vary slightly but that’s taking it a bit far.  Will have to get a better match once back in the States but the whole job is a great improvement on the way it was before.   Today’s is the Superbowl final and Steve joins Ron in his van to watch the match.

LOS BARRILES 7

MONDAY 4 FEBRUARY – Time to move on so we park up in the village by the water tap so that C&M can have showers once we have filled up our water.  We know we can go well over 2 weeks without needing water or emptying our tanks but our first visitors have alerted us to the fact that with 2 extra people on board we are lucky to make 5 nights!  The laundry opens and we bag the first two machines, 18 pesos (90p), but water flow is slow and it seems to take forever.  Worse still the dryers, 18 pesos (90p), are barely warm but at least the clothes are no longer dripping when they come out so we can dangle them around the van.  After a quick lunch we head off north and immediately begin climbing over the mountain range.  The views are good and we pass many interesting small villages but don’t have time to stop other than in El Triunfo for C&M to look at the church.  Luckily we find the La Paz by pass and this takes us out to the port area and then back to Tecolote Beach.  It’s a very calm day and the tide is extremely low making it appear very different to when we were here before.  C&M cook up an evening meal for us to share with K&R and we eat early so we can be outside.

TECOLOTE 1

TUESDAY 5 FEBRUARY – The calm of yesterday has been broken and we are back to wild winds.  Early afternoon we head off to show C&M the Balandra Beach walk.  The tides are incredibly low at the moment and it’s like doing a different walk as we can walk so much further across the bay but still can’t make it around the last couple of headlands. 

TECOLOTE 2

WEDNESDAY 6 FEBRUARY – C&M head off to La Paz on the bus to explore.  Early afternoon 4 separate caravans of vehicles arrive and the beach camping area fills up.  We attempt a walk to the far end but the wind blasts the sand against our legs making us turn back.  C&M arrive back and report that the 20 pesos (£1) each way bus ride worked out well and they have enjoyed exploring the city. 

TECOLOTE 3

THURSDAY 7 FEBRUARY – It’s Kevin’s birthday and last night we prepared a gift for him, put it into a box and addressed and envelope to his present beach address.  I play postman to deposit the gift outside their motorhome before he wakes up.   He’s very surprised and pleased with it and says it made him laugh.  We join K&R for a ride to the port to book on the freight ship for Saturday.  Continue to La Paz where we are dropped off to look around the old town and walk along the “Malecon” promenade.  La Paz is not particularly touristy and the back streets are quite interesting and the promenade enhanced by nice sculptures.  Back at the beach I walk along to find out about the caravans.  One is a private group of 5 but the big group of 20 vehicles are all on a “Fantasy Tour”, half the group on a tour of the Baja and the other part have just come over from the mainland.  For approx $100 (£50) day they get to be shepherded around and even have a notice board telling them when to gather for afternoon tea etc.  Not our cup of tea but at least it gets people to explore place they would otherwise be too afraid to visit.  In the evening we head round to K&R’s for a celebratory meal.  Ruth has done a dinner and dessert but we also take over a homemade trifle with a giant candle in the centre and all enjoy the celebrations.

TECOLOTE 4

FRIDAY 8 FEBRUARY – It’s a breezy day but pleasant enough to sit out reading in the morning.  Steve’s shoulder is still aching so I give him a back massage followed by one for Ruth.  Whilst C&M are out climbing the nearest mountain we play cards with K&R. 

TECOLOTE 5

SATURDAY 9 FEBRUARY – Departure day and we feel quite sad to be leaving this lovely beach.  As suggested by the girl when we made our booking we arrive at the port at 10am, drive straight past the trucks parked outside and on to the dock.  At the first security check they look at our vehicle papers then wave us through for customs check.  We get the red light and this means a man comes into the van to give us a cursory glance.  Weighing and measuring comes next and we level out at a trim 5620 kilos and measure 9m according to the clerk.  Next stage is to buy our tickets for the “Transportacion Maritima de California” freight ship.  www.ferrytmc.com is their web site and we know this to be our cheapest option to get to Mazatlan.  6700 pesos (£335), for a motorhome up to 10m and driver plus 770 pesos (£38) for each additional passenger.  Armed with tickets and meal vouchers we drive round to a position where we should be first to board the “San Guillermo” at 12 o’clock.  In fact we end up being the last vehicles to board at well after 3pm but they have taken our needs of an open deck position and electricity requirement into consideration.  So much so that he has made sure we are up wind of the fish truck!  They adjust the boarding ramp so that we can drive on without “grounding” our back end and then it’s straight onto the lift to be raised up a deck.  Just after 4pm we are anchored in position and the ship sets sail.  We enjoy the view of the coast, as we are quite familiar with it after our walks.  Meals are included whilst on board and evening meal consists of meat, rice, refried beans and tortillas.  There are showers for passengers but as this is a freight ship that normally only has male lorry drivers the only ones are in with the urinals.  Claire, Ruth & I go along together so one of us can stand on guard whilst the others shower.  K&R have had to put their bikes inside their motorhome so everyone else has piled inside ours leaving us little space. So Ruth sets up her hairdressing salon on the deck and proceeds to cut my hair.  I have a hard time deciding whether to go for a crew cut or waves, in fact Ruth decides if she ever opens a salon she could call it “Wave Cutter”! 

TMC SHIP SAN GUILLERMO FROM LA PAZ TO MAZATLAN

SUNDAY 10 FEBRUARY – It’s a bit disappointing to wake to a chilly misty morning, especially as we are now back in the tropics.  Breakfast is a simple refried beans, scrambled egg and tortillas but very filling.  Dock on MEXICO MAINLAND in Mazatlan, around 9am, and Ruth and Whiskey are the first foot passengers off.  Somebody is bursting for the loo and it’s not Ruth.  Whiskey is trained to only go on grass so has just gone 17-hours without a wee.  Kevin found an offer from SKP’s member Lee who said she could help people visiting Mazatlan.  She is on the dockside waiting to meet us all.  Disembarking is very simple and we are soon regrouped on shore.  Lee hops in with K&R and takes us to the headland to describe how the statue of the Virgin of La Puntia was found out at sea and is now a patron saint for the fishermen.  Next we park at the waterfront by the historic district.  Lee then proceed to give us a superb tour and is most knowledgeable with just enough depth for us but leaving C&M wanting much more.  There’s a service in the cathedral and people are all linking hands and singing a lovely song.  Next we visit her favourite street stall where the seafood is delicious and cheap.  So now that we’ve done the old town we return to the motorhome to drive to the area, Los Sauces, where Lee lives and we park beside El Begotes a carnitas.  This is an outdoor restaurant that cooks whole pigs and sells various parts of the body by the kilo to be eaten with tortillas and “criminals” sauce.  We have a royal feast for 7 of us, 1-½ kilos of meat and the total bill is less than 300 pesos (£15) including a tip.  We walk around to her home, a 3-bed semi detached bungalow amongst the local Mexicans.  She tells us much about life in Mexico and time flies until we must leave to do some shopping whilst Lee goes to a meeting.  Soriana is a huge supermarket and in the centre of the car park there is a large look out tower with a “vigilante” on guard.  C&M head off to get enough fruit and veg for a couple of weeks whilst I make a start on the other shopping.  Steve nearly has a fit when he sees 2 trolleys full of stuff that need to be stashed away.  Back at Lee’s she is a superb host and offers us everything we need, electric for Harry, showers, washing machine and Internet.  In the evening we walk to a nearby street where Betty opens up her kitchen to guests.  Again we enjoy typical Mexican food at a very modest cost and round off a wonderful day.

MAZATLAN

MONDAY 11 FEBRUARY – C&M are keen to see more of the old town whilst the rest of us are happy for Lee to show us more of the other parts of Mazatlan.  The motorhomes are safe so we set out in different directions on the local buses.  Fares seem to range from 5 – 8 pesos (25p – 40p) and although the buses are old the service is frequent.  Our first driver is so confident amongst the traffic that he uses his mobile phone whilst driving along.  We head up to the northern most beach area of Cerritos where they are building a new campground.  Spaces are so scarce in this area that motorhomes are already staying in the middle of the “building site” and paying for the privilege.  Gingers bilingual horses is owned by Lee’s friend Ginger and we go over to meet her.  During the conversation we find out the she used to go to school with Marilyn (of Randy & Marilyn) who we have just been camped with on Baja – what a coincidence.  There is a small shopping strip springing up and we take lunch at the hamburger place.  Back on the bus, the driver is busy puffing away on his cigarette – perhaps the next one will be swigging from a bottle of beer!  We alight at “Valentinos” castle to begin walking along the Malecon.  It’s a glorious day and a most pleasant walk around the bay.  There are a few statues to look at and some displays left over from the recent carnival.   The bay is still longer than it looks so we flag down an auriga (local truck with seats in the back) to take us to the divers rock.  This is an area where local lads dive into the ocean from a high rock knowing that they must time themselves to hit the top of the wave or risk death.  Unfortunately there are not enough tourists around to tip them enough to take the chance.  A few more statues and we are back in the old town to catch the bus back.  C&M arrive back shortly after us and we put together salad and snacks for our evening meal but by the time it is ready Steve has retired to bed feeling unwell. 

MAZATLAN 2 

TUESDAY 12 FEBRUARY – I also went to bed early last night but C&M stayed chatting and tell me that Kevin also fell ill.  He almost passed out and had to rush to the toilet.  In fact he is too sick to drive so they will have to stay.  We’ve had an early awakening with the rubbish lorry squeezing past and know it’s time for us to move out of the crowded street.  By the time we have made use of Lee’s free call phone to UK it’s almost a 10am departure.  It’s strange not having K&R in tow after 2 months; they are now heading inland to get to Florida by March.  Out of Mazatlan we join the toll road Mex 15 south.  It’s totally different countryside here with lots of agriculture.  The toll for our motorhome to Rosario is 61 pesos (£3).  As soon as we leave the freeway there is a distinct lack of signs and we have to keep asking for directions.  Rosario has a very interesting looking cemetery in the centre of town but we are past it before we can find parking.  At this point we notice the streets are becoming narrow and the kerbs at the side higher.  Eventually we realise we are going to get stuck is we continue so end up making all the traffic grind to a halt whilst we do a 3 point turn in a side street.  All the Mexicans are very friendly and laid back about the problem and no one toots their horn or seems bothered by the delay.  Having found the correct road it’s easy going through Escuinapa De Hidalgo where we pick up signs for our destination Teacapan.  Steve is still feeling a bit delicate and my stomach is growling so I pass around a list for use of the toilet with myself in the first 4 positions.  Malcolm has a different problem as he is feeling queasy and before long is crawling along the floor to vomit in the rubbish bin.  Steve pulls over at the end of a dirt track whilst Malcolm sorts himself out.  Whilst parked there for less than 10 minutes there are 2 vehicles that come up the track but both are happy to manoeuvre themselves around us.  Teacapan is a small fishing village and we easily find the beach camping area at Playa Las Lupitas.  Luckily there are flush toilets on site as I am desperate by then.  It’s a super camping area with grassy places to park behind a beautiful sandy beach.  There’s a dump station and water supply and some of the spots have palapas.  Most campers are Canadians and extremely friendly.  There should be some waterfront positions vacated tomorrow but with 3 of us feeling unwell we are happy just to park up anywhere and rest.  Malcolm & I go straight to bed but I have to get up to vomit.  Steve joins us later and we are in bed for the night by 6.30pm.  Throughout the night I suffer with hot and cold sweats, bad headaches, sickness and stomach pain and Steve is much the same so we don’t get much sleep.

TEACAPAN, PLAYA LAS LUPITAS

80 pesos (£4)

WEDNESDAY 13 FEBRUARY – Malcolm feels considerably better when he gets up but both Steve & I are still struggling.  Move the van to a position with a sea view but that’s about the extent of our activities.  We all have a laze around except Claire who plays nurse.  We get many offers of help from other campers who have heard of our illness. 

TEACAPAN 2, PLAYA LAS LUPITAS

THURSDAY 14 FEBRUARY – I’m feeling considerably better although a little delicate but Steve is still bedridden.  C&M take a walk to the nearby fishing village and I manage to stroll the length of the campground.  Many people are Canadians who came from England and all are happy to chat.  A vegetable delivery van arrives and says he will be back on Sunday.  Apparently fresh water and other things are also delivered regularly so this has to be the best spot so far for our needs.  When C&M return they have bought heart shaped lollies in the village to celebrate Valentines Day.  Had I been feeling better I would have done a special meal but this will have to suffice today.  In the afternoon Malcolm & I rise to the challenge of restringing one of the motorhomes day/night blinds.  Even with a diagram off the computer it’s an interesting task but we are pleased to find it works when we have finished.  We get a fabulous sunset with the palm tress silhouettes in front of the blazing sky.

TEACAPAN 3, PLAYA LAS LUPITAS

FRIDAY 15 FEBRUARY – Our neighbours Fernan & Nicole have chartered a boat for some of the campers to take a bird-spotting trip up the river.  Steve is still sick so stays behind to enjoy some peace and quiet whilst C&M and I take the 2-hour trip for 100 pesos (£5).  For the first time I get to see the nearby fishing village and it looks really pretty set behind palm trees with boats bobbing at the waters edge.  Heading up river we are soon seeing the local bird life.  Front seat of the boat has Nicole’s husband, Malcolm (in the middle) and Claire – the keenest birdwatchers of us all no doubt.   It’s a very pleasant ride and there are numerous birds to be seen as it is low tide and we are looking under the mangroves.  Bird Island lives up to its name; I like the salmon coloured spoonbill there.  Steve’s a little better when we get back and manages to sit out and have a bit of lunch and even has a swing in his hammock.  In the afternoon C&M test the water for snorkelling.  Malcolm looks like something out of a comedy programme with his regular glass attached outside swimming goggles and a household peg on his nose.  After all his efforts they see nothing but a few basic fish. 

TEACAPAN 4, PLAYA LAS LUPITAS

200802

FRIDAY 1 FEBRUARY 2008 – During breakfast we are entertained by a bullfight.  Two herds of cattle have appeared, one down each side of the arroyo, and they need to establish territory.  We all gather with our cameras and Malcolm takes a chance in getting close with his video obviously confident that bulls are colour blind as he is wearing a red shirt.  Malcolm helps Steve to make a template of the broken mirror then Randy drives them up to the local glass place where they can have on cut by 5pm.  It’s a busy day back at camp as a caravan of 3 vehicles arrives and the leading one gets stuck in the sand big time.  Before anyone can come up with a plan to help he has unhitched his tow car and driven off to return about 10 minutes later with a JCB following him.  The motorhome is too stuck for the digger to pull him out but it ends up turning around and bit by bit winching the vehicle out.  As soon as he is free the convoy drive off to the adjoining campground.  Work continues on the repair at the back of our van (the damage was done when we bought it) with more layers of fibreglass being added and sanded.  Needless to say the mirror is not ready at 5pm but promised for tomorrow, seems like the same laid back syndrome that affects Spain.  Ron a friends of the 2 Randy’s arrives and joins us all for an evening meal at the hot dog stand.  On return we round off the evening with 3 more games of “Left, Right and Centre” and this goes down well with Claire and Kevin who each win a round.

LOS BARRILES, NORTH BEACH. 5

SATURDAY 2 FEBRUARY – The wind has finally dropped and it’s a beautiful calm day enabling Kevin to spray undercoat on the repair job.  Steve & I walk the 2km to town and pick up the mirror, 100 pesos (£5).  Walking back we are just about to cross the dusty riverbed when a car backs up and asks if we would like a lift.  It’s no one we know but Canadian Ron introduces himself and then proceeds to take us up the back streets to show us a house he is having built.  The basic construction here is strong corner pillars to hold up the roof but the rest of the walls are thick sheets of polystyrene with a panel of cross wires on either side then cement stuck onto that.  He then insists on taking us up to meet his wife Joan who is staying in a rented house above the arroyo.  He tells her he has kidnapped us so that she can have some company.  They offer us a snack and drink and we stay chatting for an hour or so until Ron is ready to return to the house building and drop us off.  Late afternoon Ruth brings down tasty spaghetti bolognaise for us all to share and I cook up the Christmas pudding for dessert and add rum to the custard.  Retire inside to all play cards but break off to look out at some beach fireworks that we think are for the birthday of the little girl who made the zoo.

LOS BARRILES 6

SUNDAY 3 FEBRUARY – Luckily it’s another calm day so the topcoat of paint can be sprayed on.  The can says brilliant white but it must be a Mexican brilliant white as it comes out in a cream colour, a delicate shade of peach!  As a disclaimer the can does say that the colour may vary slightly but that’s taking it a bit far.  Will have to get a better match once back in the States but the whole job is a great improvement on the way it was before.   Today’s is the Superbowl final and Steve joins Ron in his van to watch the match.

LOS BARRILES 7

MONDAY 4 FEBRUARY – Time to move on so we park up in the village by the water tap so that C&M can have showers once we have filled up our water.  We know we can go well over 2 weeks without needing water or emptying our tanks but our first visitors have alerted us to the fact that with 2 extra people on board we are lucky to make 5 nights!  The laundry opens and we bag the first two machines, 18 pesos (90p), but water flow is slow and it seems to take forever.  Worse still the dryers, 18 pesos (90p), are barely warm but at least the clothes are no longer dripping when they come out so we can dangle them around the van.  After a quick lunch we head off north and immediately begin climbing over the mountain range.  The views are good and we pass many interesting small villages but don’t have time to stop other than in El Triunfo for C&M to look at the church.  Luckily we find the La Paz by pass and this takes us out to the port area and then back to Tecolote Beach.  It’s a very calm day and the tide is extremely low making it appear very different to when we were here before.  C&M cook up an evening meal for us to share with K&R and we eat early so we can be outside.

TECOLOTE 1

TUESDAY 5 FEBRUARY – The calm of yesterday has been broken and we are back to wild winds.  Early afternoon we head off to show C&M the Balandra Beach walk.  The tides are incredibly low at the moment and it’s like doing a different walk as we can walk so much further across the bay but still can’t make it around the last couple of headlands. 

TECOLOTE 2

WEDNESDAY 6 FEBRUARY – C&M head off to La Paz on the bus to explore.  Early afternoon 4 separate caravans of vehicles arrive and the beach camping area fills up.  We attempt a walk to the far end but the wind blasts the sand against our legs making us turn back.  C&M arrive back and report that the 20 pesos (£1) each way bus ride worked out well and they have enjoyed exploring the city. 

TECOLOTE 3

THURSDAY 7 FEBRUARY – It’s Kevin’s birthday and last night we prepared a gift for him, put it into a box and addressed and envelope to his present beach address.  I play postman to deposit the gift outside their motorhome before he wakes up.   He’s very surprised and pleased with it and says it made him laugh.  We join K&R for a ride to the port to book on the freight ship for Saturday.  Continue to La Paz where we are dropped off to look around the old town and walk along the “Malecon” promenade.  La Paz is not particularly touristy and the back streets are quite interesting and the promenade enhanced by nice sculptures.  Back at the beach I walk along to find out about the caravans.  One is a private group of 5 but the big group of 20 vehicles are all on a “Fantasy Tour”, half the group on a tour of the Baja and the other part have just come over from the mainland.  For approx $100 (£50) day they get to be shepherded around and even have a notice board telling them when to gather for afternoon tea etc.  Not our cup of tea but at least it gets people to explore place they would otherwise be too afraid to visit.  In the evening we head round to K&R’s for a celebratory meal.  Ruth has done a dinner and dessert but we also take over a homemade trifle with a giant candle in the centre and all enjoy the celebrations.

TECOLOTE 4

FRIDAY 8 FEBRUARY – It’s a breezy day but pleasant enough to sit out reading in the morning.  Steve’s shoulder is still aching so I give him a back massage followed by one for Ruth.  Whilst C&M are out climbing the nearest mountain we play cards with K&R. 

TECOLOTE 5

SATURDAY 9 FEBRUARY – Departure day and we feel quite sad to be leaving this lovely beach.  As suggested by the girl when we made our booking we arrive at the port at 10am, drive straight past the trucks parked outside and on to the dock.  At the first security check they look at our vehicle papers then wave us through for customs check.  We get the red light and this means a man comes into the van to give us a cursory glance.  Weighing and measuring comes next and we level out at a trim 5620 kilos and measure 9m according to the clerk.  Next stage is to buy our tickets for the “Transportacion Maritima de California” freight ship.  www.ferrytmc.com is their web site and we know this to be our cheapest option to get to Mazatlan.  6700 pesos (£335), for a motorhome up to 10m and driver plus 770 pesos (£38) for each additional passenger.  Armed with tickets and meal vouchers we drive round to a position where we should be first to board the “San Guillermo” at 12 o’clock.  In fact we end up being the last vehicles to board at well after 3pm but they have taken our needs of an open deck position and electricity requirement into consideration.  So much so that he has made sure we are up wind of the fish truck!  They adjust the boarding ramp so that we can drive on without “grounding” our back end and then it’s straight onto the lift to be raised up a deck.  Just after 4pm we are anchored in position and the ship sets sail.  We enjoy the view of the coast, as we are quite familiar with it after our walks.  Meals are included whilst on board and evening meal consists of meat, rice, refried beans and tortillas.  There are showers for passengers but as this is a freight ship that normally only has male lorry drivers the only ones are in with the urinals.  Claire, Ruth & I go along together so one of us can stand on guard whilst the others shower.  K&R have had to put their bikes inside their motorhome so everyone else has piled inside ours leaving us little space. So Ruth sets up her hairdressing salon on the deck and proceeds to cut my hair.  I have a hard time deciding whether to go for a crew cut or waves, in fact Ruth decides if she ever opens a salon she could call it “Wave Cutter”! 

TMC SHIP SAN GUILLERMO FROM LA PAZ TO MAZATLAN

SUNDAY 10 FEBRUARY – It’s a bit disappointing to wake to a chilly misty morning, especially as we are now back in the tropics.  Breakfast is a simple refried beans, scrambled egg and tortillas but very filling.  Dock on MEXICO MAINLAND in Mazatlan, around 9am, and Ruth and Whiskey are the first foot passengers off.  Somebody is bursting for the loo and it’s not Ruth.  Whiskey is trained to only go on grass so has just gone 17-hours without a wee.  Kevin found an offer from SKP’s member Lee who said she could help people visiting Mazatlan.  She is on the dockside waiting to meet us all.  Disembarking is very simple and we are soon regrouped on shore.  Lee hops in with K&R and takes us to the headland to describe how the statue of the Virgin of La Puntia was found out at sea and is now a patron saint for the fishermen.  Next we park at the waterfront by the historic district.  Lee then proceed to give us a superb tour and is most knowledgeable with just enough depth for us but leaving C&M wanting much more.  There’s a service in the cathedral and people are all linking hands and singing a lovely song.  Next we visit her favourite street stall where the seafood is delicious and cheap.  So now that we’ve done the old town we return to the motorhome to drive to the area, Los Sauces, where Lee lives and we park beside El Begotes a carnitas.  This is an outdoor restaurant that cooks whole pigs and sells various parts of the body by the kilo to be eaten with tortillas and “criminals” sauce.  We have a royal feast for 7 of us, 1-½ kilos of meat and the total bill is less than 300 pesos (£15) including a tip.  We walk around to her home, a 3-bed semi detached bungalow amongst the local Mexicans.  She tells us much about life in Mexico and time flies until we must leave to do some shopping whilst Lee goes to a meeting.  Soriana is a huge supermarket and in the centre of the car park there is a large look out tower with a “vigilante” on guard.  C&M head off to get enough fruit and veg for a couple of weeks whilst I make a start on the other shopping.  Steve nearly has a fit when he sees 2 trolleys full of stuff that need to be stashed away.  Back at Lee’s she is a superb host and offers us everything we need, electric for Harry, showers, washing machine and Internet.  In the evening we walk to a nearby street where Betty opens up her kitchen to guests.  Again we enjoy typical Mexican food at a very modest cost and round off a wonderful day.

MAZATLAN

MONDAY 11 FEBRUARY – C&M are keen to see more of the old town whilst the rest of us are happy for Lee to show us more of the other parts of Mazatlan.  The motorhomes are safe so we set out in different directions on the local buses.  Fares seem to range from 5 – 8 pesos (25p – 40p) and although the buses are old the service is frequent.  Our first driver is so confident amongst the traffic that he uses his mobile phone whilst driving along.  We head up to the northern most beach area of Cerritos where they are building a new campground.  Spaces are so scarce in this area that motorhomes are already staying in the middle of the “building site” and paying for the privilege.  Gingers bilingual horses is owned by Lee’s friend Ginger and we go over to meet her.  During the conversation we find out the she used to go to school with Marilyn (of Randy & Marilyn) who we have just been camped with on Baja – what a coincidence.  There is a small shopping strip springing up and we take lunch at the hamburger place.  Back on the bus, the driver is busy puffing away on his cigarette – perhaps the next one will be swigging from a bottle of beer!  We alight at “Valentinos” castle to begin walking along the Malecon.  It’s a glorious day and a most pleasant walk around the bay.  There are a few statues to look at and some displays left over from the recent carnival.   The bay is still longer than it looks so we flag down an auriga (local truck with seats in the back) to take us to the divers rock.  This is an area where local lads dive into the ocean from a high rock knowing that they must time themselves to hit the top of the wave or risk death.  Unfortunately there are not enough tourists around to tip them enough to take the chance.  A few more statues and we are back in the old town to catch the bus back.  C&M arrive back shortly after us and we put together salad and snacks for our evening meal but by the time it is ready Steve has retired to bed feeling unwell. 

MAZATLAN 2 

TUESDAY 12 FEBRUARY – I also went to bed early last night but C&M stayed chatting and tell me that Kevin also fell ill.  He almost passed out and had to rush to the toilet.  In fact he is too sick to drive so they will have to stay.  We’ve had an early awakening with the rubbish lorry squeezing past and know it’s time for us to move out of the crowded street.  By the time we have made use of Lee’s free call phone to UK it’s almost a 10am departure.  It’s strange not having K&R in tow after 2 months; they are now heading inland to get to Florida by March.  Out of Mazatlan we join the toll road Mex 15 south.  It’s totally different countryside here with lots of agriculture.  The toll for our motorhome to Rosario is 61 pesos (£3).  As soon as we leave the freeway there is a distinct lack of signs and we have to keep asking for directions.  Rosario has a very interesting looking cemetery in the centre of town but we are past it before we can find parking.  At this point we notice the streets are becoming narrow and the kerbs at the side higher.  Eventually we realise we are going to get stuck is we continue so end up making all the traffic grind to a halt whilst we do a 3 point turn in a side street.  All the Mexicans are very friendly and laid back about the problem and no one toots their horn or seems bothered by the delay.  Having found the correct road it’s easy going through Escuinapa De Hidalgo where we pick up signs for our destination Teacapan.  Steve is still feeling a bit delicate and my stomach is growling so I pass around a list for use of the toilet with myself in the first 4 positions.  Malcolm has a different problem as he is feeling queasy and before long is crawling along the floor to vomit in the rubbish bin.  Steve pulls over at the end of a dirt track whilst Malcolm sorts himself out.  Whilst parked there for less than 10 minutes there are 2 vehicles that come up the track but both are happy to manoeuvre themselves around us.  Teacapan is a small fishing village and we easily find the beach camping area at Playa Las Lupitas.  Luckily there are flush toilets on site as I am desperate by then.  It’s a super camping area with grassy places to park behind a beautiful sandy beach.  There’s a dump station and water supply and some of the spots have palapas.  Most campers are Canadians and extremely friendly.  There should be some waterfront positions vacated tomorrow but with 3 of us feeling unwell we are happy just to park up anywhere and rest.  Malcolm & I go straight to bed but I have to get up to vomit.  Steve joins us later and we are in bed for the night by 6.30pm.  Throughout the night I suffer with hot and cold sweats, bad headaches, sickness and stomach pain and Steve is much the same so we don’t get much sleep.

TEACAPAN, PLAYA LAS LUPITAS

80 pesos (£4)

WEDNESDAY 13 FEBRUARY – Malcolm feels considerably better when he gets up but both Steve & I are still struggling.  Move the van to a position with a sea view but that’s about the extent of our activities.  We all have a laze around except Claire who plays nurse.  We get many offers of help from other campers who have heard of our illness. 

TEACAPAN 2, PLAYA LAS LUPITAS

THURSDAY 14 FEBRUARY – I’m feeling considerably better although a little delicate but Steve is still bedridden.  C&M take a walk to the nearby fishing village and I manage to stroll the length of the campground.  Many people are Canadians who came from England and all are happy to chat.  A vegetable delivery van arrives and says he will be back on Sunday.  Apparently fresh water and other things are also delivered regularly so this has to be the best spot so far for our needs.  When C&M return they have bought heart shaped lollies in the village to celebrate Valentines Day.  Had I been feeling better I would have done a special meal but this will have to suffice today.  In the afternoon Malcolm & I rise to the challenge of restringing one of the motorhomes day/night blinds.  Even with a diagram off the computer it’s an interesting task but we are pleased to find it works when we have finished.  We get a fabulous sunset with the palm tress silhouettes in front of the blazing sky.

TEACAPAN 3, PLAYA LAS LUPITAS

FRIDAY 15 FEBRUARY – Our neighbours Fernan & Nicole have chartered a boat for some of the campers to take a bird-spotting trip up the river.  Steve is still sick so stays behind to enjoy some peace and quiet whilst C&M and I take the 2-hour trip for 100 pesos (£5).  For the first time I get to see the nearby fishing village and it looks really pretty set behind palm trees with boats bobbing at the waters edge.  Heading up river we are soon seeing the local bird life.  Front seat of the boat has Nicole’s husband, Malcolm (in the middle) and Claire – the keenest birdwatchers of us all no doubt.   It’s a very pleasant ride and there are numerous birds to be seen as it is low tide and we are looking under the mangroves.  Bird Island lives up to its name; I like the salmon coloured spoonbill there.  Steve’s a little better when we get back and manages to sit out and have a bit of lunch and even has a swing in his hammock.  In the afternoon C&M test the water for snorkelling.  Malcolm looks like something out of a comedy programme with his regular glass attached outside swimming goggles and a household peg on his nose.  After all his efforts they see nothing but a few basic fish. 

TEACAPAN 4, PLAYA LAS LUPITAS

TUESDAY 15 JANUARY – Kevin needs to drive to La Paz for Internet so we agree to an early departure as well.  Road signs in La Paz are non-existent so even taking the main road to head south involves getting lost and asking directions.  Once out of town it’s easy to take the western part of “the loop”.  Todos Santos is famous as The Eagles based their song “Hotel California” on the hotel in town.  We drive down the main street and park beside the hotel.  It’s very attractive and the restaurant is filled by a coach load of American tourists who are happy to pay the high prices to dine there.  We are content with browsing around and then wandering through the small town centre with lots of craft and tourist shops.  South of town and just after km64 we turn off to Cerillos Beach.  The road is badly corrugated and we shake our way along very slowly whilst being passed by speeding cars.  Reach the fenced in compound of Cerillos Beach Club and park up to investigate.  We find out that this is a private area but we can camp here overnight if we use the bar or restaurant.  However further along the beach is an area with free camping and someone is vacating a nice spot tomorrow morning so we have put our name down for it.  4 drinks in the bar total $20 (£10) so not as cheap as paying to camp!  The beach is a lovely sweep of soft white sand with surfers enjoying the waves.  Sitting out late afternoon it’s possible to see the grey whales passing by in the distance.  Unfortunately developers have cottoned on to the appeal of this area and most of the land behind the beach has been pegged out into lots of sale. 

PLAYA CERRITOS, SURF BEACH CLUB

WEDNESDAY 16 JANUARY – Although we had planned to move on together Kevin wants to stay, as there is free wi-fi from the café.  We return to the main road then pull off just after km67 and down a shorter dirt track to the beach camping area.  Canadians stay here all winter and have created a mini desert golf course.  Once again this area is pegged out into lots so free camping will probably be gone by next winter.  “Our spot” has not yet been vacated but neighbour Marilyn invites us round for coffee whilst we are waiting.  Her husband Randy returns soon after and once we are position we meet our other neighbour Sergey originally from Switzerland.  We can see the ocean from the motorhome but sat outside bushes obscure the view but it does protect us from the wind and the noise for the sea.  A few yards walk takes us to the top of the dune with a grandstand view of the bay and a first class position for whale watching.  Walking around the camping area everyone is extremely friendly and we are invited to join in an early afternoon “Happy Hour” at Marilyn’s’ along with Ken & Sharon and John.  Their friends Randy & Wendy arrive and park up nearby. Sunset from the dune is magical having watched whales frolicking and fish jumping out of the water before hand.  We chat to Carol & Lois who are staying on the campground at Los Cabos but had a drive out and couldn’t resist staying here overnight when they saw how nice it was.

PLAYA CERRITOS 2, FREE CAMPING AREA

THURSDAY 17 JANUARY – Steve is prompted to get up early and Carol & Lois join us over coffee and give us tips for Florida as they were there last summer.  We walk south along the beach to the point where the slope makes it difficult.  A couple of houses have already been built behind the beach and the rest of the area is pegged out into lots.  Later we walk back to the surf club to see K&R.  Using Internet I make contact with our friends Malcolm & Claire who want to come and visit.  Mid afternoon on the free camping area a lady comes round selling ice cream and lollies at 15 pesos (75p) and I can’t resist trying a chocolate ice cream. 

PLAYA CERRITOS 3

FRIDAY 18 JANUARY – Receive a text from Malcolm & Claire to say they arrive at Cabo San Lucas next Friday afternoon.  This prompts us into action tidying up a few things and making up the over cab bed to try it out.  It’s so hot by the van that we both go down to the beach for a cooling swim in the afternoon.  Later on the wind changes direction and it’s quite cool.  K&R arrive and camp up nearby. 

PLAYA CERRITOS 4

SATURDAY 19 JANUARY – We have been invited to a communal breakfast at Ken & Sharon’s along with about 30 other people from the camping area.  They put on a superb ham and eggs spread and lots of other food.  We get chance to meet a few other fellow campers as well.  K&R did a walk north up the beaches and found a strange carcass washed ashore.  They take us back to the area and we learn from other visitors that it is a whale that the Mexicans skinned and removed the bones from then towed out to see.  Unfortunately the storms have washed it ashore and the birds now have a tasty feast.  The stench is awful but it’s too fascinating not to take a closer look at.  The whole walk is really nice and we feel ready for our evening’s meal after all the exercise.  Again a number of people from the camp are organising a trip to the hamburger join in the local village of Pescadero.  Randy & Wendy give us a ride in their car and the tiny restaurant copes well with the invasion of 27 tourists.  The huge 25 pesos (£1.25) hamburgers are superb and we also share a “papa rollana”, 50 pesos (£2.50), a kind of enormous baked potato where the filling is taking out and mixed with corn, butter and meat then stuffed back in.  Return to round the evening off by a communal campfire.

PLAYA CERRITOS 5

SUNDAY 20 JANUARY – Today’s activity is a 4wd up into the mountains and again we are lucky enough to be invited along by Randy & Wendy.  A convoy of 9 vehicles sets out and our first stop is for a view back along the coast.  The dirt tracks take us through very small villages and lone houses.  A number of times we must cross streams but all without problems.  After a lunch break the convoy travels above a valley then comes to a halt behind leaders Ken & Sharon.  They have spotted a development down below and a man has invited us all down to look.  It’s an American guy who is creating a luxury resort but his two year plan is a bit behind schedule as he has been on with it for 3 years and it is no where near complete.  Should it ever be finished it will be really nice and will even have a flying fox to take you up to a bar overlooking the small waterfall.  Next we arrive at the small village of La Candelaria and park up by the church.  Watch a lady is busy making tortillas in her garden then visit the small shop for beers.  At the end of the “main” street is the home of a lady who makers pottery but most of her stuff has been sent to town for sale.  The “tour” is heading for a local cemetery but Randy & Wendy are keen to get back so we head off alone.  The road gets very interesting as we pass an oasis then drop down to drive along the sandy riverbed.  There are a few junctions but as with the main roads there are no signs so we head towards the sun. It’s almost a relief to have a number of quad bikes appear out of nowhere as they are able to confirm that we are heading towards the main road.  In fact we carry on past the main road and out to the beach as we can see with whales just off shore.  The rest of the group appear in the distance and we join them back on the main road.  We’ve been given info about another free camping spot at km91.5 and Randy turns off to explore.  The road in is sandy and narrow but passable and leads us to another attractive bay that is great for whale watching.  Most surprisingly there are no other campers so we would not venture back alone.  By the time we get back to camp it is 6pm and even though we weren’t driving we were exhausted.  Steve also has a bad shoulder so after a hot meal and a massage he flops out on the bed. 

PLAYA CERRITOS 6

MONDAY 21 JANUARY – Occasionally we have a wi-fi signal here for Internet and fortunately this morning we do, as I want to contact Mum to wish her happy birthday.  She’s had a lovely weekend away with Netty & Ian in Liverpool where they watch the show “Blood Brothers”.  The morning clouds move off and we have a lovely afternoon sat up on the dunes whale watching.  Whilst K&R are with us playing cards we hear a bit of a commotion outside.  A mini camper has pulled in and got stuck in the sand be before we can go out to help he moves forward and ploughs into the bushes and gets stuck even deeper.  Randy walks over and offers to tow them out after he has eaten.  A classic example of why it is not good to arrive anywhere after dark.  Join our neighbours for a last half hour around the camp fire.

PLAYA CERRITOS 7

TUESDAY 22 JANUARY – It’s completely overcast when we get up.  Steve’s neck is still bad and his knee is inflamed from where he brushed up against a cactus.  Mid morning we get a few spots of rain but so few we can almost count them.  A perfect day for odd jobbing and I surprise myself with the amount of cupboard space I can clear out for our visitors.  Due to the clouds the sunset is really spectacular.  Round of the day with another card session but I still cannot get my head around Euchre, a game with 2 bowers (top cards) of different suits.

PLAYA CERRITOS 8

WEDNESDAY 23 JANUARY – Ruth & I have been invited for a ride into Todos Santos with Wendy & Marilyn.  They want to check out a new bakery “Peace & Bread” and by the time we find it we have done a very comprehensive tour of the town.  It’s all home baked but a very small carrot cake costs 30 pesos (£1.50), mini loaves of bread from 20 pesos (£1) and an individual cinnamon bun 25 pesos (£1.25).  No wonder all the customers are Americans as it would be far too expensive for locals.  Make the most of the trip out for a wander round town and visit to a local sculpturer on the way back.  Whilst we were out the 2 Randy’s went fishing and return with 6 fish.  In the evening we are invited to join them for supper along with K&R.  After we have eaten we play a fun game called “Right, Left and Centre”.  You begin with 3 coins and roll 3 dice and the dice are marked R, L, and C and have 3 dots.  A dot means you keep your coin, L means pass to the left, R to the right and C means drop it in a centre bowl where it is out of play.  You carry on like this until all but one coin are in the centre and the last person holding a coin wins the centre pot.  I am really lucky and win the first round where the coin stakes were 2 pesos (1p) each but not the second round when the stakes are up to 10 pesos (50p) a time.  Great fun but absolutely no skill involved.

PLAYA CERRITOS 9

THURSDAY 24 JANUARY – Up early ready for our journey down to Cabo San Lucas, the main tourist city on the peninsula.  We’re not sure whether it is smog or dust hanging over the city but it doesn’t look very inviting.  It appears to be a rapidly developing resort with accommodation and roads springing up everywhere.  We check onto the campground.  It’s right by the main road and the sites are small gravel areas with a paved slab on each.  The large motorhomes are prone to overhang the space and once Kevin has backed in to his site his bedroom window is inches from that of the next vehicle.  Make use of the $2 (£1) laundry and soon have a line full hanging out to dry.  We walk across the road to the new Wal-Mart, better than many supermarkets in Mexico but not as good as the American version.  Back to the campground to do more cleaning up in readiness of our visitor’s arrival.  Many Americans come down here and stay the whole winter; some of the palapas have been extended so much they look like real homes.  Personally we cannot imagine why they do this as you are near a noisy road, the beach is nowhere in sight and you are on top of your neighbours.  I meet fellow Englishman Graham who invites us round for a drink and to meet his wife Dee.  He’s from Blackpool but married to an American and lives in Las Vegas.  He used to sell RV’s in Vegas but has now retired and bought himself a splendid 5^th wheel fun mover.  Instead of carrying his “toys” in the back he lowers the ramp and uses it as a patio!  He has loads of tips for us and offers to run us to the car rental depot tomorrow.

CABO SAN LUCAS, VAGABUNDOS DEL MAR CAMPGROUND

$25 (£12.50)

FRIDAY 25 JANUARY – Graham drops Steve & Kevin at Villa Arco whilst they pick up the Dollar rental car – or should it have been a rent a wreck!  Pick up Ruth then all drive up to Costco where Graham gets us in on his card so we can do a big shop.  Kevin is an ex car body worker and has offered to help repair the damage that was done to Harry when we bought it.  We need to get fibreglass and believe there is a Du Pont shop in the old town.  The back streets are still in traditional village style and far more interesting to us than the modern waterfront.  Manage to track down a Du Pont shop and get all the stuff we need.  Early afternoon Kevin & Steve head off to the airport to pick up Claire & Malcolm.  Meanwhile we have bought a futon mattress from Graham & Dee and I now need to swap the beds and bedding around and do a last minute clean up.  Just on dusk they arrive back with our friends and we welcome them to Mexico.  Not only have they brought a few things we asked for but also some surprise gifts including a Christmas pudding.  We take the car over to Wal Mart so we can pick up the types of food our visitors like to eat.  After getting back and sitting out drinking and chatting it’s quite late when we get to bed, certainly well past Baja midnight of 9pm.

CABO SAN LUCAS 2, VAGABUNDOS DEL MAR CAMPGROUND

SATURDAY 26 JANUARY – Unfortunately even with the futon mattress on the over cab bad I find it too uncomfortable so moved onto the sofa at 3am.  Claire & Malcolm say they are willing to give it a try tonight.  Breakfast outside in the warm sunshine, no doubt most welcome to them having left behind an English winter.  The rental car seats 5 so Steve has volunteered to stay behind whilst we do an exploratory trip up the coast.  First we pop into Cabo to book a whale-watching trip for tomorrow.  We haggle the price on a small glass bottom boat and agree on 6 people for a total of $150 (£75).  Begin our tour along the “corridor” towards San Jose.  Access to the beaches is now severely restricted as hotels have either built directly behind or the land has been fenced off for development.  The coastal road beyond San Jose is dirt and far too bumpy for a motorhome.  Ruth spots a deer in the bushes and we back up for a look.  Numerous expensive looking homes dot the coast but the majority are up for sale and we speculate that people have not enjoyed the remoteness in the long term.  Los Frailes is supposed to be one of the nicest beaches and we stop there for lunch.  Motorhomes are camped further back in the arroyo (river bed) but it does not appeal to us.  Even the National Park section of Cabo Pulmo is uninviting with a rocky beach and lots of litter.  Guess the diving and snorkelling are the only attractions here.  Back on the main highway we detour through Santiago to get to Agua Caliente and beyond the village to the hot springs.  The hot water is in two concrete pools and not nice at all but below it the gorge has been dammed to create an attractive bathing area.  Malcolm and I take a dip but I get out as soon as the fish begin nibbling my feet.  Steve is almost worried when we get back after dark but he doesn’t realise we have called in to Wal Mart.  I knock up a Chinese meal and invite Kevin & Ruth to join us.

CABO SAN LUCAS 3, VAGABUNDOS DEL MAR CAMPGROUND

SUNDAY 27 JANUARY – Get up early so we can call David to wish him Happy Birthday.  Kevin shuttles Ruth, Whiskey, Malcolm and Claire down to the marina and returns for us.  He drops us off then drives back to return the rental car intending jogging down to meet us at 9am.  He hasn’t appeared by 9.30am we are wondering what to do.  Finally he arrives and explains that the rental company were determined to blame one of the numerous accident marks on him because he refused their accident insurance (his credit card includes coverage).  The guy eventually realised Kevin was not going to back down but a mechanic was still called to check out a funny noise.  The mechanic said everything was OK then drove Kevin down to the marina.  So 45 minutes late we set off on “La Chapis” and first head to Lands End to admire the interesting white rock formations.  Lovers Beach is a spit of sand running across between rocks, the opposite side is called Divorce Beach.  Window rock has waves pounding through it, The Arch is the areas famous landmark and “Scooby Doo” is a fun shape.  Pull up beside a rock full of sea lions, Claire & Malcolm’s first sighting of them outside captivity.  We then begin whale spotting in earnest and race across to where the other boats are gathered but must be too late.  Our whale watching skills have had lots of exercise recently so we soon spot a blow out to sea.  Ferdinand immediately motors that way and we spend the next couple of hours manoeuvring to get better views.  Unfortunately these are humpbacks and not the grey whales that Steve and I wanted to see, as they are the ones that come right up to the boats to be petted.  However we do get quite close and it’s interesting seeing them from the level of a small boat.  To show off his glass bottom boat Ferdinand pulls up on the way back in an area where there are lots of fish.  Walk around the marina then pick up some local food in the back streets before heading home.  We’ve managed to pick up some of the right grade oil that Harry needs so I hassle Steve to get on with the oil change – bad move as he reluctantly starts to do it but pulls the wrong plug and empties the transmission fluid.  Luckily Wal Mart stocks it so we can do a top it then get on with the oil and filter change.  Round off the evening sitting out listening to the local band playing in the restaurant.

CABO SAN LUCAS 4, VAGABUNDOS 

MONDAY 28 JANUARY – We make a late start and it’s already a hot day.  Heading up the eastern part of the loop the roads are again very narrow.  Suddenly we hear and almighty bang followed by Steve’s expletives.  An on coming vehicle was over our side of the road and has hit our wing mirror and smashed the glass.  All we can do is pull over to stick the remaining fragments together.  Los Barriles is a lovely little village in a bay and favoured by surfers because of the regular wind.  Pass through the village and up to North Bay where free campers congregate in the arroyo (river bed) just past the campground.  Our friends from Los Cerritos, Randy & Marilyn and Randy & Wendy are already parked up.  We introduce Claire & Malcolm (from now on to be abbreviated to C&M!), to them and stay on for happy hour drinks and snacks.  Back at home we invite K&R over and attempt to play 6 people Canasta, flounder on the rules but have fun anyway. 

LOS BARRILES

TUESDAY 29 JANUARY – We wake to a very windy morning, unusual here, as it is normally only windy in the afternoon.  K&R have invited us round for breakfast so that C&M can sample pancakes with real Canadian maple syrup and we all enjoy the feast.  Due to the wind we decide to take a walk to the village via the streets but first we want to view the famous mini zoo.  A young girl is camping with her family and has created a really impressive zoo for her toy animals.  There are dolphin pools, wildlife areas and even a resort hotel.  Heading into town we notice the high kerbs at the side of the main street.  It has recently been raised so that when they get torrential rain the water from the side streets pours into it creating a river that quickly empties into the ocean.  A great improvement on the previous system when water spread everywhere and all the streets were awash with mud.  They have even created sloping areas at the junctions with signs to show that wheelchairs can access the footpath by way of the ramp.  The problem then is that the footpath is that they can go no further as trees and big holes prevent progress.  Shops seem to cater to the entire tourist needs and it has a really nice feel as a very low-key holiday place.  The walk back along the beach is much more difficult as the wind is blowing towards us and the gritty sand very soft to walk on.  Surfers of every type are making the most of the weather and we get a colourful kaleidoscope of sails and parachutes.  Watching the kite surfers when they take off is most entertaining.  In the evening we all pile into the two Randy’s cars to go out for a meal.  Marilyn has recommended a “hot dog” stall that someone sets up outside their home along with a few tables.  They serve Mexican style hamburgers, supper burros and other snacks.  The food is excellent and the bill for all 10 of us including a few soft drinks is 280 pesos (£14).   You can tell how good it is as by the time we leave they have brought numerous other tables and chairs out and people are waiting for us to vacate ours.  C&M set out to stroll around the village and we return in the cars to sit outside chatting.  Around 9pm Randy is getting concerned about C&M and in spite of our reassurances that they are streetwise he takes Steve out in the car to try and find them. The minute they have left our friends arrive back having over shot the turning down to our camping area.

LOS BARRILES 2

WEDNESDAY 30 JANUARY – Again a hot and windy morning but it doesn’t stop C&M from having a swim in the sea before the surfers take over.  The boys then set about doing the repair work at the back of Harry.   C&M take an afternoon walk up into the hill and whilst they are out a “pie man” comes round and I negotiate for a pineapple and apricot one and get it for 50 pesos (£2.50).  Late afternoon the stingrays are jumping out of the water, they rise up and flap their wings like birds enabling them to stay out for quite some time.  We learn that they are doing this deliberately to get rid of parasites on their skins.  Round off the day with Canasta played as 2 teams of 3 and using rules picked up on the Internet.

LOS BARRILES 3

THURSDAY 31 JANUARY – Steve’s shoulder is so bad that agrees to take a muscle relaxant tablet.  I become a lady of leisure as Malcolm cooks up lunch for us all before he and Claire take a walk into town.

LOS BARRILES 4