200902

SUNDAY 1 FEBRUARY 2009 – On the road before 7.30am. We soon reach a military checkpoint then cross into TABASCO state and shortly after CHIAPAS where we pay P32 (£1.60) bridge toll.  Further along the traffic is funnelled off to the right for another check but we are waved through.  Sometime later I tell Steve I think we have missed our turning and the name of the next village confirms this.  When we double back we find the turning opposite the checkpoint and veer off towards Palenque.  Heading out to the ruins we must pay P22 (£1.10) pp admission to the national park.  Maya Bell has a pleasant campsite and is the nearest to the ruins.  It is very early in the afternoon and although I prefer to visit sites early in the morning Steve suggests we go there straight away.  The museum is closed on Mondays anyway so we head off up the road.  Admission to the ruins and museum is P110 (£5.50) pp and we begin at the museum.  There are some really impressive artefacts and many of them still have colour.  We wait for the hourly opening of the special area where just 30 people at a time are permitted to entry a recreated tomb.  We watch video and can see the replica stone slabs.  You have to walk another 1 1/2km uphill to get to the site main entrance.  The first area we come to has 3 ruins on the right.  You can enter the centre one and go to where the tomb is.  The left hand one is where the tomb shown in the museum was found but you can’t go in.  The Palace complex is a fascinating collection of buildings as is another group high up on the hill.  It is a beautiful setting on the edge of the jungle, not at all crowded and with just a few vendors lining the paths.  It is different enough to make it worthwhile after all the other sites we have visited especially when we follow the stream downhill back to the museum.  En route we visit more excavations right in the jungle and see some really pretty waterfalls.  We are back at camp by 3.30pm so I have time for a swim in the pool, a natural pool fed by the river water.  Later on Sandra and Robert, from Montreal, pull up next door and tells us they plan to go to Agua Azul tomorrow.  We want to go as well but had heard it was not safe to camp there alone so maybe we will go together.  The motorhome camping is by the restaurant but higher up is the tent camping area and it is like a little back packers village.  Surround a grassy square are palapas with hammocks hanging and people take one over and either put their tent underneath or just set up camp and sleep in the hammocks. 

PALENQUE, MAYA BELL CAMPGROUND – P150 with elect P130 without

MONDAY 2 FEBRUARY – Our Quebec neighbours Sandra and Robert agree to go to Agua Azul together but first we want Internet.  They have a tow car so I go with Robert into town to the Super Che supermarket and find perfect wi-fi in their car park and also fit in a bit of shopping.  Could not bring pork or eggs through Campeche so now I have them.  We finally leave around 10.30am and begin the notoriously bad road leading to San Cristobal over the mountains. We take the lead and it seems pretty easy although we do have to cross to the other lane for a broken stretch of road and twice due to fallen trees.  A sign warns us we are in “Zapatista” bandit country but we’ve heard of no problems with tourists, recently!  The twisting narrow mountain road meanders up and down then flattens out in places rewarding us with fantastic views.  We pass many rural villages where people all seem to carry heavy loads on their backs supported by a strap around the foreheads.  Logs and crops seem to be the main things.  There are numerous topes and each one has multiple roadside sellers and we succumb to 4 corn on the cob at P10 (50p).  This seems to be the main crop here as hillsides are covered with them and many people are sat at the roadside with sacks full to be collected.  As always anyone over the ago of about 2 swings a machete.  A couple of times we are halted by people raising a rope in front of us but we just keep driving slowly and smile at them.  In some cases they are just asking for money and other times trying to sell things.  After about 60km we turn right towards the waterfalls and begin a steep 4km descent with hairpin bends.  The National Park fee is P50 (£2.50) per vehicle and shortly after they charge P10 (50p) pp for the waterfalls.  At the bottom of the hill we reach a kind of village area with a large grassy parking area surrounded by restaurants and stalls.  Before we have even begun to park children crowd round us trying to sell things but we just keep smiling and saying “no gracias”.  2-hours driving has brought us just 41 miles.  After a quick lunch we set out with Robert & Sandra to explore the falls.  They are a fantastic blue colour and descend into numerous beautiful pools.  Walking up stream we cannot believe just how many falls there are.  Often the main flow splits into 3 different sections.  In many places you can have a swim and as it is a very hot afternoon we don’t take much inviting. The whole area is incredibly beautiful with lots of lesser, but equally attractive falls, higher up.  In the evening we visit Sandra & Robert in their motorhome and play the domino game “Mexican Train”. 

AGUA AZUL

41 MILES

TUESDAY 3 FEBRUARY – It begins raining during the night and by the time we get up there is a lake behind us.  We are ready for our early start but decide to sit it out to see if the rain lessens and the visibility improves.  Finally get away after 9am and notice on the road up that since arriving here yesterday someone has run off the road and buckled the crash barrier.  Back on the main highway over the mountains we have to work our way around fallen trees, pigs ambling across the road, rock slides and people walking along the roadside.  One good thing about the rain is that there are no tope traders, no one holding us hostage with a rope across the road and even the military can’t be bothered to emerge from their hut to stop us at the checkpoint.  We pass through many small farming communities and notice a difference in the way people dress.  It is very slow going, misty much of the time but even without it we can’t go fast.  Manage a 15-minute lunch stop in Oxchuc before being moved on for parking where the “collectivos” should be.  Nearing San Cristobal the terrain changes and we are now in pine forest and notice most of the homes are made from wooden planks.  Pick up the Pan-American Highway to pick up the busy traffic through San Cristobal.  Less than 100 miles has taken us 5-hours.  There’s a campsite by Bonampak Hotel but we’ve also heard you can free camp at the supermarket Chedraui opposite so that’s where we end up.  We clear it with the security guard then Robert gets their car out and drives us all into the city.  It’s pretty cold so for the first time in months we dig out our jeans and thick jumpers.  The church in the Plaza is attractive from the outside and from there we walk up towards Guadalupe on the hill for views over the city.  On return we stop at Santo Domingo and this has an extremely unusual and impressive façade and inside is huge and gilded with an attractive pulpit.  Meet up with Sandra & Robert then stop for a delicious cappuccino, P12 (60p) in the square where we also buy some freshly ground local coffee.  Return to the vans and do a bit of shopping before Sandra & Robert join us for another game of Mexican Train.   Looking back on the journey it was nowhere near as bad as people have made out and very easy compared to many mountain roads we have done in other countries. 

SAN CRISTOBAL, CHEDRAUI CAR PAR

WEDNESDAY 4 FEBRUARY – Once the store closed at 11pm it became a quiet night although somewhat chillier than we have been used to necessitating a duvet and bedspread for extra warmth.  The store opens at 8am and I pop in for some fresh bread but cannot believe the crowd of people in the fruit and veg area.  Local women have trolleys full of oranges and tomatoes.  I wonder if the street sellers buy their produce here rather than growing it themselves!  In the morning we join Robert & Sandra for a ride to the mountain villages.  Ethnic (Indian) people still live here, daily dress varies with each village and they have their own language depending on their tribe.  We arrive in San Juan Chamula and it is bustling with people.  Along with a local market there are many women in town with their children as they are running an inoculation programme.  The ladies are dressed in dark skirts with bright coloured, but mainly blue, wool shawls whilst men have a kind of tabard with a belt.  P20 (£1) pp must be paid in the tourist office for a permit to enter the church.  You can take photos from outside, which is beautiful, but not within.  We’ve arrived early and the normally pine strewn floor is bare.  There are no seats so families are sat on the floor in groups lighting small candles and sticking them onto the tiles whilst drinking coca cola – they believe that each time you burp a bad spirit leaves your body.  The men often mix it with a spirit known as “posh” with the idea that when they get drunk they get a warm feeling making them closer to the sun and God.  One man shouts and waves us over to them and chatters away in his local language, we just smile but cannot understand a word.  Shortly after he keels over and is escorted out of the church.  It is a really beautiful scene enhanced by the hundreds of candles.  The sides of the church are lined with statues in clothing and many have mirrors hanging around their necks.  A group of men gather the sacks of pine needles and begin to scatter them over the floor creating a fragrant carpet, they say they do this 3 times a week.  It is a really moving and magical experience and we are the only tourists around.  Leaving the church we see the tour groups arriving so after a quick browse through the market and at the craft stalls we move ahead to Zinacantan.  To enter the village there is a tourist fee of P15 (75p) pp.  Here there are 2 churches in the square, no pine needles but the altars are completely covered with beautiful flowers.  The village women all have purple patterned shawls and we see some incredible large bundles of logs being carried by really old ladies.  At the bottom of the village we visit the museum with examples of local costumes.  The museum building is also of interest being the local wattle and daub style construction.  There is a new toll road towards Tuxtla Gutierrez and it is a fantastic and makes the drop of almost 2,000 metres very easy, toll P67 (£3.45) and worth every penny.  We turn off for Chiapa De Corzo heading for the main square.  A lad comes over to greet us, gives us a leaflet about the boat trip and tells us to follow him for free parking.  Reaching the end of the square he tries to send us down a narrow side street but we are too wide.  Cars are backed up right behind us so we must reverse up the wrong side of the dual carriageway to make the turn to go around the square.  At this point a motorhome comes up the one way street in front of us and we are amazed to see it is Kevin & Ruth.  We manoeuvre round the square to park and chat to them.  They tell us Thomas will lead us to the parking spot and we can make it in the motorhome, they are off to the zoo and will rendezvous with us further on tomorrow.  We do make it down to the boat ramp, harder for Robert & Sandra towing the car.  Within minutes of parking up we realise we can get on the 2pm trip up the Sumidero Canyon so pay our P150 (£7.50) and hop aboard the 16 seater boat.  Heading under the high and wide road bridge we enter the gorge and see lots of birds and crocodiles on the banks. The boatman only speaks Spanish but an Argentinean couple sat next to us translate into English.  It is a really attractive gorge with rock walls as high as 1000 metres.  En route there are some interesting features including a waterfall that looks like a Christmas tree the way it has fanned out and gone green.  At the top of the gorge we emerge onto the lake, created by the 3^rd largest dam in the world.  We have a fast boat ride back to complete the interesting 2-hour journey.   It is a lovely evening so we sit out by the water enjoying some delicious pina colada’s made to Robert’s special recipe.  I’ve cooked a huge pork curry, hoping Kevin & Ruth would be joining us, and Sandra supplies the rice to complete our meal.  Instead of Mexican Train they have a version of the game sequence so that completes our entertainment for the evening.

CHIAPA DE CORZO, BOAT RAMP

32 MILES

THURSDAY 5 FEBRUARY – Straight after breakfast we drive up to the plaza before the streets get congested with traffic. In the centre of the square is a magnificent fountain surrounded by a fancy Moorish style arched building.  Once we have used the free wi-fi signal we head off around Chiapas capital city of Tuxtla Gutierrez.  Pulling up at traffic lights we hear a car hooting and a hand waving out of the window, it’s the Argentinean couple we met yesterday.  On the outskirts of Ocozocoautla we drive to Hotel Infantil.  This is a children’s home with about 80 kids ranging from 6 – 22 years old.  You are welcome to camp for up to 5 days free of charge but may be asked to help with English lessons.  We have come armed with educational games and other things that may be of use.   Kevin & Ruth are already parked up but have gone into town.  There are just 2 more places available and we take them.  They are out for the day with 2 other motorhome couples and return late afternoon.  We go off for a ride out with Sandra and Robert to a tourist place just up the road.  12km of dirt track leads us to Sima De Las Cotorras (chasm of parrots) a kind of huge hole in the ground with steep sides and a forest in the bottom.  You can walk around the rim and this takes you to a restaurant where they take the P20 (£1) admission.  There is accommodation and you can camp there (if you can get to it in the first place).  The lady points us to signs in English explaining about the rare green parrots that live there and some ancient rock art on the walls of the pit.  In the evening we enjoy a game of Sequence with Robert & Sandra whilst Kevin & Ruth entertain their German neighbours. 

OCOZOCOAUTLA, HOGAR INFANTIL

37 MILES

FRIDAY 6 FEBRUARY – We’ve decided to stay one more day to catch up on a few things.  Robert & Sandra head off but a few minutes later Sandra comes back for help.  Their tow car slipped of the ramp and in their haste to sort it out they have got locked out of the motorhome with the engine running.  Kevin & Steve go to help, manage to get into the motorhome through a small window to deal with the engine problem.  They get the car back on the trailer but then find the motorhome won’t move.  After much research on the Internet and reading our handbook (they have the same base vehicle) they find the trailer coming unhitched blew a brake fuse and now the brakes are locked on.  With a new fuse in place they are ready to roll.  Spend the day on the Internet, doing laundry and odd jobs.  An evening game of Euchre with Kevin & Ruth rounds of the day.

OCOZOCOAUTLA 2, HOGAR INFANTIL

SATURDAY 7 FEBRUARY – We had planned to move on today but it is Kevin’s birthday and Ruth has invited us for supper.  It also means we can do loads on the Internet including Steve getting his sports results and catch up with the laundry.  This does not work out at all as the Internet is not on and the water goes off just after I start doing the washing.  At least it comes back on later.  The children here have obviously all got chores to do and we see many of the girl’s hand washing clothes.  We’ve tried to speak to someone in charge here to donate some gifts but still haven’t been able to find anyone and no one has come to see us.  In the evening we are just finishing dinner and Ruth is preparing dessert when the ice cream man calls.  Kevin buys a dish full for P10 (50p) to top off the fruit salad and brownies, yummy. 

OCOZOCOAUTLA 3

SUNDAY 8 FEBRUARY – We leave at 7am as we have a long journey.  Still in the mountains we have many more ups and downs to travel but also get fine views.  At La Venta there is a huge wind farm, not surprising as the wind howls down through the valley and fairly wobbles the motorhome.  Opt for the new toll road to avoid Santa Cruz, two tolls P94 (£4.70) and P47 (£2.35) but well worth it as it is a superb fast road and very quiet.  There are a few military checkpoints but pretending we don’t understand a word of Spanish they soon let us on our way.  Cross into the state of OAXACA.  We are both very pleased to get our glimpse of the Pacific Ocean and this is where we join the Pan-Am and head north up the coast.  Just over 7-hours after we set out we arrive at Tangolunda Beach where Robert & Sandra are parked up.  This is a purpose developed tourist area so we are very surprised to find cheap camping right next to the golf course.  There are just a few sites but all are large and there are toilets, cold showers and water so all that we need.  You walk through a forest to get to a lovely beach that takes up the whole bay.  It is backed by luxury all inclusive style hotels and behind them is a small village with tourist shops and restaurants. 

TANGOLUNDA BEACH P50 (£2.50) PP

MONDAY 9 FEBRUARY – We are trying to conclude a deal selling Harry to a friend of a friend from England so walk to the nearby Italian Coffee Shop to be sure of good Internet.  Keith & Louise agree to adopt Harry with a provisional plan to hand him over in Houston on 1^st May.  We return and head to the beach and walk all around the bay.  All-inclusive resorts back it and we see people with their wristbands but at the last one “Dreams” people have no bands.  We amble up the steps and watch the procedure before ordering our drinks from the bar – thank you very much.  It is very hot in the afternoon so cooler near the motorhome, not easy to nap, as there are so many amazing birds here with interesting calls.  We are invited to the communal “happy hour” and meet Michelle & Jack and Dave & Joyce with their dogs George and Gracie.  Robert & Sandra join us for an evening meal followed by a game of sequence.

TANOLUNDA BEACH 2

TUESDAY 10 FEBRUARY - Sandra takes me for a ride up to the Super Che supermarket and then around the old town where I buy a lovely fresh red snapper for P30 (£1.50).  It is a purpose built town to house the locals who work in the hotels here but looks just like any other traditional Mexican.  Driving back we get superb views over the bays and also stop to explore a couple of others.  Sandra has suggested we go for a drive up to town in the evening as it is all nicely lit up.  Unfortunately late afternoon their car breaks down and they have to leave at a garage.  During happy hour Dave’s dogs begin barking and run off, they have spotted Whiskey who is with Kevin & Ruth.  They arrived just before dark and rather than pay P100 to park here tonight they are parked up in the main car park.

TANGOLUNDA BEACH 3

WEDNESDAY 11 FEBRUARY – Robert, Sandra & I walk up to Kevin & Ruths for a ride up into town.  Robert needs to check on the car progress and I am going to do a bit more shopping.  On return Kevin & Ruth move onto the trailer park.  We head down to the beach but return for lunch and a siesta.  Late afternoon we manage another visit to the beach before holding “happy hour” at our place.

TANGOLUNDA 4

THURSDAY 12 FEBRUARY – We are falling into a nice routine now.  First thing I sit by the shower block doing Internet, along with so many others it often looks like an Internet café.  After breakfast I do a bit of laundry in the showers whilst Steve does an odd job or two.  Kevin helps him, as today’s is a complicated job fixing the top rear lights that were not working.  Turns out when we grounded we cut off the cable so it is an easy fixed once they have worked it out.  I cook a pork curry for lunch and invite Kevin & Ruth to join us.  Late afternoon we fit in a beach visit and return to see a couple of huge rigs coming into the park.  They are both from Quebec (seems that 90% of the Canadians in Mexico are from Quebec) and one has “just married” on the rear windows.  Think they must be only French speaking, as they don’t seem to want to talk.  In the evening a truck drives through the trailer park with bug spray and we just manage to shut the van windows before we get fumigated.  Round off the days with a movie at K&R’s.

TANGOLUNDA 5

FRIDAY 13 FEBRUARY – Well it may be Friday 13^th and unlucky for some but it was lucky for us as we ambled to Dreams at the end of the beach and spent the morning using their swimming pool.  Of course to blend in we had to accept a few of the free drinks as well!  Having agreed a sale of Harry Steve has decided to do some thorough cleaning a bit at a time.  Today he catches his little finger and this causes a huge problem.  He broke it many years ago, then re broke a few years after that and it is now permanently swollen with now cartilage.  It looks like he has done the same thing again today and is in great pain with it.  Luckily he can still manage to play Sequence when Robert & Sandra join us for the evening.

TANGALUNDA 6

SATURDAY 14 FEBRUARY – Robert & Sandra have had their car fixed and after lunch we join them for a ride out to Copalita, 10km down the coast.  Bocano Copalita is a beautiful beach backed by attractive rocks and with just a small boutique hotel behind it.  A river divides it and after a bit of a struggle wading across we settle on the banks.  It is great fun to float in the water and let it carry you downstream like a lazy river.  Some local lads are having fun jumping in on the bend from the high rocks.  In another area people are in kayaks and a white water rafting type dingy also floats past.  Unfortunately it is a very windy afternoon so if you are not in the water it is very uncomfortable having the sand blast at you so we don’t stay all that long.  It is Valentines day so 4 couples have decided to go out to dinner in Crucecita.  We get a ride with Robert & Sandra and Kevin & Ruth goes with Dave & Joyce.  Park in the main square by church and head to a fish restaurant in the back streets that Dave recommends.  Whilst waiting for our meal we get complimentary tostadas (sort of big round corn crisps) and ceviche (raw fish marinated in lemon juice and served with onions, hot peppers and olives) to put on top.  I’m surprised to find it is delicious.  I have orders shrimp salad (what Glen eating salad!) and it is a huge plate of peeled prawns with a mayonnaise dressing and onions and red peppers so not enough of a salad to scare me off.  Steve has the fish soup and gets an enormous bowl of broth with squid, massive prawns, a small red snapper and other fishy things.   Afterwards we head to the port at Santa Cruz where Sandra has sussed out a gem of a bar hidden behind the Pemex station.  They are all geared up for Valentines with candles on the tables and music playing in the background.   A nice finish to a romantic evening.

TANGOLUNDA 7

SUNDAY 15 FEBRUARY – We are leaving tomorrow so I do a bit more washing and cleaning.  Kevin & Ruth move off mid afternoon as they don’t want to pay for tonight and will stay on the car park.  We head down to the beach and Robert & Sandra joins us for a few drinks and a swim at Dreams.

TANGOLUNDA 8

FRIDAY 16 JANUARY – Well the gods must be looking after us as the rain has finally stopped.  Kathe give us a lift to Immigration offices where we manage to jump the queue by asking a question.  They give us some forms that we must take to the bank to pay for the tourist visa.  Catch a bus to town centre, P5 (25p) then queue for ½ hour to make the P282 (14.50) payment per person.  Next we have to get 3 copies of each of the receipts and the bank obliges us. Taxi back to immigration, P20 (1.00) and again the girl sees us ahead of the huge seated crowd.  She stamps the copies, gives us one back and says we are good to go.  Take a taxi to bus station, P14 (70p) and then on to the 11am chicken bus to Corozal P15 (75p).  It is one of the old American school buses and looks well past its best before date but at least the driver tops up the engine oil before we set off.  We could have caught a luxury Ado bus but for a short journey this is more fun.  At the Mexican border we all get off the bus and proceed to customs to show passports or ID.  The guy asks for our tourist visa, stamps it double entry before asking of our plan.  We explain we are returning and he asks for P100 (5.00) each.  We tell him we have already paid and asked for a double entry visa at the original border and should not have to pay more.  He says no he wants P100 so we call his bluff and say we will not bother going to Belize and stay in Mexico.  He then says OK we can go in for free, just this once.  Over the bridge the next stop is entry into BELIZE.  All very simple and strange to hear perfect English being spoken – due to Belize being British Honduras in the past.  It’s a short ride to Corozal but quite a transition from Mexico.  Signs are all in English and it looks like a Caribbean town with all the coloured people.  Everyone seems very friendly and many say Hello as we pass.  There’s an ATM in square, approx B2.80 = GBP1 so we are soon fixed up.  Bank notes have a picture of very young version of The Queen on them.  The island ferry doesn’t leave until 3pm and it’s only just after 12 so we have time to explore.   Chinese runs most of the shops but all the food seems to be tinned and very expensive, accommodation is not great so we will press on.   Thunderbolt ferry costs B$45 (GBP16) pp and takes 2-hours of very bumpy noisy riding to get us to Ambergris Caye, the island also known as “La Isla Bonita” in the Madonna song.  It’s starting to rain when we arrive and we are disheartened to find our first few choices of accommodation are full.  There seems to be no middle ground just budget rooms and posh rooms at $200 and up.  We drop “lucky’ at Thomas Hotel where he has a grotty cubicle room for B$50 (GBP17).  Well its one of those “no room at the inn” situations and better than nothing.  Dump the bags and set out to explore the small town where golf carts are the main mode of transport.  It’s happy hour in many bars so 2 x rum and cokes for B$5 (GBP 1.80) makes us feel much better.  We’re obviously in for a noisy night as drumming begins at 8pm in a bar nearby.

AMBERGRIS CAY, SAN PEDRO, THOMAS HOTEL - B$50 (GBP 17)

SATURDAY 17 JANUARY – We have no problem getting up early to leave and are pleased that it is a dry day.  Sit eating our grapefruit on the beachfront then enjoy a coffee at Estell’s whilst waiting for the ferry.  B$25 (GBP9) buys us a ticket to Caye Caulker with an onward one to Belize City for later.  This is another white-knuckle ride but only takes ½ hour.  Caye Caulker is a more laid-back backpackers type island with sandy streets and again golf cart transportation.  Amble along the shore checking out rooms but once again there are either cheapish grotty rooms or very expensive ones with nothing in between.  By comparison to Asia the cheap rooms are not great value but Ignacio Beach Bungalows seem the best of the batch with en suite cabins on stilts at B$30 (GBP12) if you stay for 2 nights.  Sounds cheap but you have to see them to realise they are little more than garden huts with damp sagging roofs, holes in the walls and smelly bathrooms but we do have a nice view and it’s well away from the noisy part of town.  Set out to explore the island, which can easily be done, on foot, in fact many people wander around permanently barefoot.  In the evening we return to Jolly Roger shack as his evening meal package of meal, dessert and 3 drinks at B$25 (GBP8) seems good value.  The mash and rice are sent from home in a polystyrene tray but the fish or lobster he cooks to go with it is really tasty.  Dessert is a small slice of chocolate cake and the drinks are weak rum and oranges however we do have good company.

CAYE CAULKER, IGNACIO BEACH BUNGALOWS - B$30 (GBP12)

SUNDAY 18 JANUARY – Begin our walk heading to the south of the island with an intriguing cemetery, signs give birth and death dates as sunrise and sunset.  The airport is just behind it and a plane is due to land so we step to one side whilst it drops in over our heads.  From there we walk to the north end of the island where the old bridge that connected it to another part was washed out in a storm many years ago.  There’s a nice bar where we buy drinks in order to sit on their loungers.  The channel between the islands is deep and full of tropical fish that we can easily see.  Most of the beaches around the island are marred by sea grass and people really come here to take a boat trip to the offshore reef for snorkelling.  The snorkelling here is not as good as it used to be and it is blamed on the tourists stepping on the reef however having seen that there is no drainage as such on the island we suspect other factors are at play.  Locals here think nothing of swearing even with young children around and often the F word mixed in with a bit of  “Creole”.  In the evening we go to Lloyds Canadian sports bar for the trivia quiz.  We arrive early and treat ourselves to a nice meal only to find that the quiz is off as there is a big American football game on TV. 

CAYE CAULKER 2

MONDAY 19 JANUARY – Catch the 7.30am express ferry to Belize arriving in the city 30 minutes later.  We have used to boats to create a circular tour for ourselves but we certainly would not call them pleasure boat trips.  Belize City looks pretty grim if our walk up Orange Street to the bus station is anything to go by.  The 9.15am bus will take us further south but not to Placencia as the road there is too bad for the bus.  We can get off at Independence and get a boat across but opt to make an earlier stop and re plan.  The old American school bus soon fills up and people are left standing.  B$10 (GBP4) will get us to Dangrina in just under 3 hours via the capital city of Belmopan.  This is another white-knuckle bumpy ride with lots of sliding on the seats as we swerve around the bends.  The scenery changes from low lying flooded areas to lots of big hills in the jungle.  In Dangrina we have a problem getting a room, as there is a medical conference in town.  Just about to give up and take a bus further when we find Riverside Hotel has basic rooms at B$25 pp but with no guests she will take B$40 (GBP14) for the two of us.  It’s less grim than the other places we have stayed but we have to share bathrooms.  We are now in a “garifuna” town with lots of Rasta’s who we think originated in Nigeria.  They have a different language but seem friendly people and call out to us as we stroll around.  Many fall in to one of 2 categories, piss heads that have just rolled out of the bar or piss pants that have just crawled out of the gutter.  The beach area is poor but we enjoy just wandering around a getting a feel for the place and have time to check out buses for tomorrow.

DANGRIGA, RIVERSIDE HOTEL - B$40 (GBP14)

TUESDAY 20 JANUARY – We catch the 7.45am James Bus to Punta Gorda, B$13 (£4.30).  Although we are on the “express” bus it still takes 3 hours and we drop of and pick up many people on route.  The express bus does have the advantage of having more comfortable seats but by this I mean an inch of foam on each seat and back rest!  Punta Gorda is pretty much the most southern coastal town in Belize and so laid back the locals can’t even be bothered to give it the full name and just say PG.  The driver asks where we want to be dropped of and we ask for the St Charles Inn as recommended in the Rough Guide.  This turns out to be the best accommodation we have seen so far in Belize with small but modern rooms and tiled bathrooms with hot water in the showers.  For B$40 (£14) we take a single room having finally realised that many single rooms mean just one bed but this is often a double bed.  He relays all the satellite TV to the town so his garden is full of huge dishes and he has TV in all the rooms.  We wander around town and everyone shouts a greeting to us.  The main ferry only goes further south twice a week but a local boatman says he has many people wanting to go tomorrow so we will go with him.  Obama is being inaugurated today and the locals are all glued to the TV watching the ceremony.  Most of the people here are the Garifuna, many of whom originated as slaves from Africa so they are very happy to see him as president.  We are happy to have an evening at home channel hopping with the TV.

PUNTA GORDA - CHARLES INN B$40 (£14)

WEDNESDAY 21 JANUARY – We both have an excellent nights sleep but linger in bed enjoying our surroundings.  Call in to the snack shack for breakfast and as usual everyone wants to chat.  One of the locals tells us we should visit “Johnny English” a Brit who bought a motorhome in Florida, drove it here and is now building on a plot of land.  We hunt him down along with his Canadian friend Pete just as their wives are going out shopping.  There’s so much to talk about in such a short time as we have a boat to catch.  He shows us his new home and tells us wages are incredibly low here and his workers get $2 (£1.35) a day.  Needless to say he has had lots of snags and work is behind schedule but once finished his 3-storey home with be fantastic.  Meet for El Chato’s boat trip at 2pm.  He charges B$30 (£10) versus the big ferry fee of B$50.  We have to pay B$7.50 (£2.50) environmental departure tax and do brief immigration facilities before boarding the 30-seater boat.  1-hour later we dock in Livingston GUATEMALA and amble up the main street to report to the customs house.  The currency is Quetzal with approx Q10 = £1.  This small town has no land access so has an island feel with very friendly locals.  Tourists come down from Rio Dulce on the river but few stay overnight.  The cliff top hostel has a simple double room with en suite for Q80 (£8) and we are ready to drop our bags off so take it.  Walking around town we end up along the waterfront where we find Marina Hotel with really nice rooms and a swimming pool so decide to upgrade tomorrow for Q200 (£20).  A little further along is the backpackers Casa Del Iguana run by a Cockney lad called Rusty.  He welcomes us and say he is just about to watch “Fools and horses” on TV and why don’t we stay.  He has a dorm and some pleasant cabins with en-suite and although I am fed up of cabins we love the atmosphere and book in for tomorrow night.

LIVINGSTON HOSTEL - Q80 double en-suite room

THURSDAY 22 JANUARY – Check out early then walk to Iguana to drop our bags off.  We want to do the beach walk to “Los Siete Altares”.  It is 5km along the back of the beach and takes us 1-½ hours, as there is so much to see.  You are walking along by all the village homes and we also see lots of fishermen.  There are many creek crossings with different sorts of bridges ranging from solid concrete ones down to a single pole.  We are the first visitors at the falls, Q15 (£1.50) and initially disappointed to reach what looks like a concrete barrier across the river with a trickle of water in the middle.  As the trail takes us across it we realise it is a natural rock formation and then upstream we find seven more pools going back into the jungle.  It is really attractive and nice for bathing in but we realise we are not seeing it at its best as there is so little water compared to the photos we have seen where you cannot see the walls between the falls.  Hiking back we hear drumming and chanting and pause to listen.  A fisherman sees us and tells us to follow the path into the village.  Reach a small wooden church and a man comes out to greet us.  He shakes our hands and says he is the man from the tourist office where we went yesterday to ask about the walk.  He is also the village “priest” or equivalent as he invites us into the building then proceeds to waft us with pungent smoke and sprinkle water over us.  Many of the people are white and hippy looking and joining in dancing with the locals.  The drumming gets more intense and barefoot people stamp around on the floor in a kind of trance, we wonder whether he has wacky backy in the incense burner! There seems to be no end to the ceremony so we discreetly take our leave.  Spend the afternoon watching more “Fools and Horses” and chatting to Rusty’s Mum and Dad who are over visiting but have a Post Office in England.  Many people have signed up for Rusty’s family evening meal, Q30 (£3) and it is a local dish of “tapado” a kind of stew with coconut milk.  During the meal we chat to other travellers and end up joining some for a few games of Texas Hold Em, after winning the first one I head to bed and leaving Steve to lose some of our winnings.

LIVINGSTON, CASA DE IGUANA - Q120 (£12)

FRIDAY 23 JANUARY – Neither of us get much sleep.  Not only did we hear roosters all night but also dogs were barking and fighting underneath our cabin and people were up chatting until late.  No more cabins for me.  One of Rusty’s cooked breakfasts soon make us feel better especially the extras of brown sauce and marmite on toast.  He really does go out of his way to make you feel at home.  He has booked us on the boat to Rio Dulce, Q125 (£12.50) and this means they pick us up at his place.  At 9.30am our boatman arrives and we head off up the river.  The river soon becomes a deep jungle sided gorge with small homes at the edges.  Turn off up the Rio Tatin to a Mayan school where we are shown the goods that they make.  Further up the main river we stop to bathe in some hot springs.  Hot water emerges into the main river and they have created a pool to hold it back and so you can mix it with the cool river to get a bath at whatever temperature you want.  The river has now widened and along the banks we are interested to see the locals out doing washing and going about their business.  The last part of the 2-hour trip is a bumpy fast ride along the lake to Rio Dulce town.  It seems to be a very busy one street town.  We book on the Fuente del Norte bus to Poptun leaving at 1.30pm, Q35 (£3.50) then walk down to the pier to enjoy our picnic.  The bus is already full when we get on so we have to stand in the aisle.  Steve tries sitting on his bag but when I try it I find you can see nothing but get to smell everyone’s feet.  There are many young people sat down but no one shows any courtesy in offering up seats.  We reach a Police stop and all have to get off the bus whilst they walk through it.  Getting back on we must show identification.  I get back to the area where we were stood and take a seat temporarily, when the youth returns he says I can stay there.   Further on there is a fruit inspection so again we must all get off whilst they do a check.  By 3.30pm we have covered around 100km at get dropped off at the junction to Finca Ixobel.  As we haul our bags 1km up the bumpy drive it begins to rain.  This is a working farm where they grow produce, offer horse rides etc and let out rooms.  They seem to have everything from dorm beds up to private bungalows.  We settle on a double room linked to an unused dorm but with shared bathroom for Q90 (£9).  They are really welcoming and seem to have thought of everything you may need or want to know.  Evening meals are taken in the main house and you can have a single serve for Q45 (£4.50) or all you can eat buffet for Q60 (£6).  The price includes salad, garlic bread and home made bread, soft drinks and coffee and the food is excellent.  It also gives us a chance to meet and chat to other guests from around the world.  The music bar opens at 9pm and is down a track in the forest.  Under our umbrellas we head off down the muddy track for what seems like a mile to reach the welcoming bar with a roaring log fire.  Unfortunately the music is too loud for Steve to talk and even the fire isn’t enough to keep me warm so we just stop for 1 quick drink.

POPTUN, FINCA IXOBEL - Q90 (£9) double room

SATURDAY 24 JANUARY – We have had a quiet night even if the rain was a little noisy on the tin roof.  Unfortunately it is still raining when we get up and at breakfast we learn that the Pyramid Mountain is too muddy to climb and the other walking track is very muddy.  We could use a days rest so will still stay here.  They have Internet Q20 (£2) hour, and we find out Judy & Stan will not be visiting us.  Due to fly to Mexico City tomorrow and meet us on the west coast a family illness has caused them to cancel.  Shame we had not known a few days earlier as we would then have had time to go on to Honduras, hey ho.  We visit Nate and Jena in their camper.  They are a young couple that are heading down to Costa Rica in the hope of finding work but using the camper to make a holiday of the journey.  They give us tips about the west coast of Mexico and we can reciprocate with motorhome help.  It clears to a drizzle in the afternoon so we walk to the pond where you could normally enjoy a swim and the water slide but today struggle to stay upright on the muddy banks.  Late afternoon we are amazed to see a French motorhome arriving followed by another with Adrian and Danielle (who we have bumped into 5 times before).  Their trip is going very well but they are chancing it without motorhome insurance.  Again we have an excellent evening meal in the main house.  Our room is attached to a dorm and last night it was empty but tonight holds a group of 8 Israeli’s.  At 11pm we ask them to kindly lower the noise so they turn the music off and talk a little quieter but nothing blocks out the sound of snoring through the night. 

POPTUN 2, FINCA IXOBEL

SUNDAY 25 JANUARY – We chat to Danielle and Adrian and realise there is every chance we will bump into them again on the west coast of Mexico.  Nate and Jena have offered us a ride in the back of their camper so we clamber aboard for our trip to El Remate.  They seem to have the perfect vehicle for this part of the world; a 4wd pick up truck with a small but functional camper on the back.  We can’t see much from the back but it is considerably more comfortable than our last bus journey when Steve was sat on the floor.  A couple of hours later they drop us in the wood carving village of El Remate on the edge of Lago Peten Itza (Lake Peten).  It’s a lovely spot and we begin our walk along the street hunting for a room.  A couple of local lads latch on to us offering advice.  We compare a few things along the way and are tempted by a posh hotel with swimming pool for Q200 (£20) but when I see a double room with en suite at Hermano Pedro for Q90 (£9) I begin to wonder, as we will be out all day tomorrow.  The lad thinks I am hesitating over the price and offers a reduction to Q70 (£7).  I go through all the checks as to if it includes tax, whether that is the price for the room for two people etc, if it is quiet at night and then agree to take it.  We can see it is not going to be all that quiet as the accommodation is on the top floor of a house in a wooden room with rooms all the way along so our bed head backs onto the ones in the next room.  Having settled in we explore the village, which seems really friendly.  A road spurs off around the lake and there are lots more rooms available, some a little cheaper with no en suite, but nothing any better.  Pick up a pizza for lunch then return for siesta.  Take our evening meal at Casa Don David where we get a nice view of sunset over the lake.  Our hotel book us a shuttle bus to Tikal for tomorrow morning Q50 (£5) each return.  As usual we have a disturbed night with dogs barking and roosters crowing most of the time.

EL REMATE, HERMANO PEDRO –

Q70 DOUBLE EN SUITE (LATER FOUND TO BE PP) 

MONDAY 26 JANUARY – We get up at 5am ready for our 5.30am pick up.  Check out time at our hotel is 2pm so when we get back we will move to the nice hotel.  The mini bus arrives at 5.45am but doesn’t finish picking up others until after 6am so we have no chance of being at the site for sunrise.  Arrive at 6.30am and pay the hefty Q150 (£15) pp admission then stride off purposefully towards the main ruins.  Tikal was a huge city begun around 700BC when the Mayans settled here.  Much is still unexcavated but it is still at least 10km walk to visit most of the major buildings that have been unearthed.  We reach the Great Plaza with two pyramids facing each other.  You can climb one of them although access is by a wooden staircase at the side of it.  It’s very quiet so we press on to Temple V.  This one is much taller and access to the top is by a series of ladders.  Steve pulls out after the first few steps up but I go ahead and enjoy a great view from the top.  You can see Peten Lake and a few other temples poking up out of the jungle.  I am at the top alone on a narrow ledge and about to walk to the ladder when a couple of big vultures land in front of me.  They are now blocking my access to the ladder and don’t fly away as I inch closer.  I creep closer getting great photos and then realise that I am really near to them and they are not going to fly away.  I try shooing them off but only one goes.  I move closer but realise there is no room to squeeze past and am frightened that if I scare the bird it will either attack me or take off in my direction and me with no place to step aside.  Luckily something scares it and it takes off so I make a quick escape.   Meanwhile Steve has been spotting Spider monkeys in the trees.  We amble through the Plaza of the seven temples and the Lost World to get to the back of the park.  We’ve been hearing strange noises like wind rushing through the trees but now realise it is the howler monkeys.  The sound is incredible, like a cross between a roar and a bark and extremely loud and frightening.  We track them down near temple IV only to find they are very small black things.   Temple IV is the tallest at 64m and easy to climb up a staircase so we both head to the top and sit there enjoying the views.  We have really seen all we want to but it is only 8.30am.  Decide to detour out to the temple of inscriptions but the inscription is very basic and too high up to see. Overall we are somewhat disappointed with the site compared to other things we have seen in the past but I guess is this was your first Mayan site it would be really good.  Stop for breakfast at the Jaguar Inn then catch the 12.00 mini bus back.  Back at the posh hotel they have put their price up to Q350 (£35) as yesterday they were empty and had reduced it.  Decide to stay put and it is interesting to see that today we are the only guests at Hermano Pedro.  In the evening we go across the road to watch sunset from Restaurant Cahui and to enjoy one of their delicious pasta meals.  Opposite is a small church and we hear the same singing we heard last night.  Passing the entrance we are invited in and enjoy seeing some very young children sing individually accompanied by a young lad on the drums and the congregation who all clap.

EL REMATE 2 - HERMANO PEDRO

TUESDAY 27 JANUARY – We come to pay the bill but they ask double the price quoted.  The girl says the price is per person not for the room but we repeat the conversation we had when we negotiated with her brother.  She then tells us her brother doesn’t work there!  We explain that their rooms are nicer than others but would not have stayed there for Q70 pp as there are many places at Q60 per room and we did not need the bathroom.  End up having to speak to the boss on the telephone and he is not happy but agrees to the lower price.  Next she won’t accept our US$20 note even through their tariff board shows both currencies. Seems a little strange as I go to the restaurant nearby and get Q146 then give here the Q140 as agreed.   It is less than 2km walk out to the main road at Puente Ixlu (El Cruce) where within minutes we are picked up by a collectivo.  Q25 (£2.50) gets us a ride to the border.  Over 1-hour to make the short journey as the bulk of the road is in terrible shape.  We have been told the Guatemalans won’t maintain it, as it is disputed territory and also if the Belizeans invade it will slow them down!  In the border town of Melchor de Mencos we spend our last few quetzals only to find they want a departure tax (having enquired before and told there was none).  They ask for Q20 (£2) then say they will take B$10 but settle for $5 (£3.30) but won’t give us a receipt!  Entry to BELIZE is really easy and we are through in minutes.  We are now in the middle of nowhere and must take a taxi 3km to the town of Benque Viejo del Carmen.  The driver asks US$10 (£7) but settles for US$5.  Chatting en route he says how quiet it is and offers to take us all the way to San Ignacio for a total of US$10 – deal.  He drops us by an information centre and they allow us to use their phone to call our host.  Marcus tells us how to get out to their place at Bullet Tree Falls so we head off to find a collectivo.  B$6 (£3) gets us both a ride to Parrots Nest where Marcus is waiting to meet us.  He’s a really lively guy and tells us that Theo, his girlfriend, runs the lodge whilst he teaches at night school.  Very knowledgeable on the area he tells us about lots of possible trips but they all seem very expensive and I am feeling a bit sickly and not too lively.  He says Theo has also been feeling sickly today as there is a bug doing the rounds.  I think mine is a mixture of aching from climbing the ruins, a chill from cold nights and not enough blankets for the beds, tiredness and bit of sickness.  Theo returns with her children Chloe and Katya and we have a bit of a chat.  They had a terrible flood through here in October and she shows us just how high.  It is amazing how much they have done since then with the help of lot of friends but it explains why our cabin is a bit wonky!  In the evening she takes us into town along with their other guests Rueben and Catherine so we can get a take away from “Hannas”.  By the time we get back both Catherine and I feel too sick to eat any of it.  I retire for an early night but get little sleep due to noisy dogs, roosters and things dropping onto the tin roof.

SAN IGNACIO, BULLET TREE FALLS, PARROTS NEST

WEDNESDAY 28 JANUARY – It has been another noisy night with dogs barking, roosters crowing and at one stage one of the dogs on our doorstep scratching then banging its tail on the door.  I’m still not feeling well and although Marcus mentioned tubing on the river I just want to rest.  Katya is also feeling sickly and stays off school.  There are some huge iguanas here and Steve takes great delight in tracking them down, watching them climb the trees and occasionally fall off.  By mid afternoon I’m a little better but Steve is making lots of trips to the toilet with a griping stomach.  I manage a dip in the river in the afternoon.  It’s a gorgeous spot here as the river has a pebbly beach, is clear and warm and deep enough for a nice dip but too strong a current to swim.  Theo is late back as Chloe’s team got further than expected in a basketball tournament in Belmopan.  She sees that I am reading one of their books “P.O. Belize” and tells me the author Kathy Stephens is her mother.

BULLET TREE FALLS 2 

THURSDAY 29 JANUARY – The bad night continues as I feel something jumping around in the bed.  By torch light I try to waft it out thinking it must be some kind of bug.  When I wake up in the morning to see a tree frog sat at the side of the bed I am not amused.  I hate frogs and would have really freaked if I had known what it was.  Theo offers to take us to town on the school run so we leave around 8am.  Across the river in San Pedro she drops us off at the bus stop where we buy tickets for the 9am Amigos Belize luxury express bus to Chetumal, $25 (£18).  There are cheaper local buses but that would mean 2 changes and lots of hanging around and as we are both not well we splash out.  The bus arrives on time having left Flores at 5.30am.  It’s a Toyota Coaster and reasonably comfortable but by no means luxurious.  Our luggage is added to the pile already on the roof.  Just over 2-hours later we arrive at the docks in Belize where lots of people get off to go to the islands and others get on.  So many board that we have to put the aisle seats down and even then one person is left standing.  Make it to the Belize border around 2pm and alight to do immigration.  Each person has to pay B30 (£10) departure processing fee plus B7.50 (£2.50) parks and conservation toll if you have been in the country for more than 24 hours.  This is a very slow process with only one clerk.  Back on the bus for a couple of minutes then all off, including luggage, for the Mexican entrance formalities.  This is a breeze and we are through in minutes and still have the remainder of our 180-day tourist visa.  It’s good to be back in MEXICO, almost feels like coming home. By 3pm we are at the main ADO bus station and from nearby take a taxi, P40 (£2) to Kathe’s.  Harry is waiting for us but the gardener tells us Kathe is out on a day trip with a visiting friend.  It’s still hot enough to make it worthwhile us washing out our holiday clothes in the pool.  We are both whacked and I am in bed before 8pm and Steve shortly after. 

CALDERITAS 

FRIDAY 30 JANUARY – We have both enjoyed a peaceful night and slept so well we did not hear Kathe return at 9.30pm.  It’s a beautiful hot day with a nice breeze so we take the rest of the washing down to the pool and do everything including the sheets; feel like the women we saw on the banks of the Rio Dulce.  We are both still a bit tired, not 100% well and feeling grumpy but manage to get a few odd jobs done throughout the day.  I check over our banking and find we spent almost £500 on our 13 nights backpacking trip, almost double what we spend in the motorhome and with much less comfort but worth it get a feel of the other countries.  Still feel it was the right decision for us, as we would not like to have taken Harry in without full insurance cover.

CALDERITAS 2

SATURDAY 31 JANUARY – We get up late again and Kathe has already left to take her friend to Cancun airport so we leave here a “Thank You” card.  In Chetumal we fill up the gas, get LPG and then do a grocery shop at Bodega, a.k.a Wal-Mart.  Around 10.30am we are ready to head west towards Palenque.  In fact we are now heading back towards USA, as the backpacking trip was our furthest point south.  Our first stop is to buy 3 good sized pineapples for P25 (£1.25), I cut one up straight away and we munch it as we drive along.  Going from the state of Quintana Roo into Campeche there is an inspection point, supposedly to confiscate eggs, pork and poultry.  A solider looks in our fridge then his mate on the doorstep asks if we have beer or coke – I say no even though beer is evident in the fridge.  A few yards further we are stopped for paperwork and they check the vehicle permit and our passports.  The road has been good so far but now becomes a mixture of good old road, bad old road, good new road, badly made new road and road works all complicated by topes either signed or un signed.  Driving here sure is interesting.  Kevin & Ruth came through a few days ago and told us about a Maya Campestre near km52 where they let you park overnight.  It is a lovely spot on the lake and we take a mid afternoon meal in their restaurant.  We still don’t have our appetites back so share a P70 (£3.50) Mexican special fish dinner of a whole fish cooked in tomato, garlic, onion and cilantro and served with tortillas.  3 motorcyclists arrive at the restaurant.  A Frenchman who lives in New York and his friend are cycling to Buenos Aires to set up a business and another American has recently joined them but is on his way to Argentina.  There are peacocks, chickens and roosters here but unlike Belize and Guatemala they seem to have their act together and all crow at the same time!

Hwy 186, Km 52, Restaurant Maya Campestre

148 miles