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SATURDAY 1 MARCH 2008 – Jack & Bonnie offer us another trip to La Manzanilla.  On the way back they detour to show us around and do some exploring near Playa Boca De Iguanas.  A group are collecting coconuts and we pass just as one of the men abseils down from the tree.  There is a donkey waiting nearby with baskets over his back waiting to be loaded up.  Heading south on a track back towards La Manzanilla we pass many seemingly abandoned camping areas but the whole area is fenced off with the only access to the beach via narrow walking tracks.  The road ends at a river and as Steve looks over he sees a huge crocodile swimming past.  There’s a broken footbridge nearby and we walk to the top to look down on the crocodile as he swims towards the beach restaurants.  Mexicans run over and get very close, seemingly oblivious to any danger.  It finally rests by the edge of the river and families with small children close in, perhaps they are all related to Steve Irwin.  Steve wanders over but hovers in the background taking pictures.  The croc opens it’s mouth as if to pounce but then glides back and disappears into the murky water.  Next stop is “Raicilla distillery” where we take the free tour.  Bootleg brewers have got together to register and form a co-operative.  The alcohol is similar to tequila but a better quality with the top of the range one retailing at 295 pesos (£14.50) for a 700cc bottle.  Back at the slabs the camping area is quickly filling up with Mexicans who camp so close to each other that you can barely walk between the tents.  They soon crank up the music and we are surrounded by different tunes.  By nightfall there must be over 100 people and the party begins.  There are many campfires probably made from fresh wood, as they smoke is terrible.  A generator is started up and the arc lights come on and the music is turned up louder.  With no chance of sleep we invite Jack & Trudy to play cards then stay up reading until 12.30am.  It doesn’t quieten down until well after 2am.

TENACATITA SLABS 5

Suggested donation $5 (£2.50)

SUNDAY 2 MARCH – With family’s camped as well as young people there is no chance of a lie in.  Everyone is obviously having a great time and there are soon lots of people in the water and kids playing in dinghies.  Suddenly there’s a bit of disruption and a man emerges from the water carrying a huge squid – at least 1 metre long.  He races up the beach with the red rubbery thing in his arms and takes it to his camp with Steve following to take some photos.  At afternoon low tide we find it upsetting to see many Mexicans walking out on the coral.  There are signs up explaining how to preserve the reef but they totally ignore them and even bring chunks back as souvenirs.  One Mexican man approaches them to explain about the coral but they don’t want to know.  By early evening all the locals have left and there are just the quiet gringos left plus all the rubbish that has been left behind. 

TENACATITA SLABS 6

MONDAY 3 MARCH – Cathie packs up her “Travelling Dolphin” caravan to leave, as a lone 72-year-old lady you have to admire her guts in touring places like Mexico alone.  There’s a big hill at the end of the spit and we climb up a newly made dirt road to explore.  It would appear that they are cutting areas out to be sold as building lots.  The views are superb as you can see at least 5 different beaches and in all directions.  The ocean seems much calmer so we have a go at snorkelling but still find it too churned up near the reef.  After lunch Jack & Bonnie ask if we want to join them for a “washing” visit to the river.  Steve declines but I go along and take a few dirty clothes as well.  The river is just beyond the nearest village and Jacks 4wd gets us right down to the water.  It’s very shallow, clear warm water and I am soon filling buckets to take to the banks to do our laundry.  With that out of the way I get on with my personal bathing.  Bonnie does their washing whilst Jack cleans the car.  We’re parked by a ford and during our time there it is crossed by a couple of cyclists, a tractor with a load of chilli peppers, a cowboy on horseback and an old man with a donkey and cart.  No one bats an eyelid at us, as this is the place where all the locals come to do their washing. 

TENACATITA 7

TUESDAY 4 MARCH – Maz and family leave and as it’s a cloudy morning we go for a walk into the village.  There are no public phones but the hotel allows you to use their mobile for a fee.  Make arrangements with a host in Colima then settle in for a drink.  John & Sandy from Mount Shasta California are staying in the hotel and we have a chat with them.  A last game of euchre with Jack & Bonnie rounds off the day.

TENACATITA 8

WEDNESDAY 5 MARCH – We are leaving today as are Jack & Bonnie.  It’s been interesting for us to see the amount of packing everyone else has to do.  Maz starting last Friday in readiness for his departure yesterday and Jack seems to have spent at least a day in preparation.  We on the other hand take about 15 minutes, a big plus for having a motorhome large enough to keep things store inside in their correct place.  Continue south to the small tourist town of Melaque where we drive through a bit of a village on the north side of the river to get to the “almost free camping” area.  35 pesos (£1.75) day gets you a safe level parking spot and if you are lucky, like we are, a spot right on the water front with your own palapa.  The toilets are extremely basic and flushed with water from a barrel but most people seem to have dug holes for their waste pipes and filled the earth up around them.  Many people remain here for the whole winter season.  Just around the corner we take a walk along the unfinished Malecon gaining us fine views over the bay.  Exploring the camping area we find one camper is having his 5^th wheel cleaned and waxed by locals who have a portable truck with generator.  On the top camping area one van is obviously set up for the season with about 10 solar panels and even a car port canopy for his truck.  After lunch we ford the area we use the stepping-stones to cross the river where it flows into the ocean.  The town stretches a long way and begins with lots of beach restaurants.  You can’t continue walking behind the beach as the ruins of a massive 3-storey hotel block the way.  Reaching the town proper we find many Internet cafes, 15 pesos hour, mini supermarkets and above all else shops selling beach wares and tourist goods.  It’s still a very low key area as the hotels all look to be small family run ones aimed more at Mexican holiday makers.  Hot off the press we pick up a kilo of tortillas for 8 pesos (40p) from a factory in the main street.  After checking out the attractive main square we walk back along the beach. 

MELAQUE ALMOST FREE CAMPING

35 pesos (£1.75)

THURSDAY 6 MARCH – Sit out having breakfast under our palapa whilst watching the sun light up the bay.  Throughout the morning more campers leave, Semana Santa (Holy week) begins here next weekend and that is when the Mexicans invade the coast.  There are many species of bird here and as we are on a bank at the edge of the river they seem to fly past at eye level.  Late morning Steve is watching a bird then glances beyond it to see a small alligator basking on a log in the river, the very river that we cross to get to the town. Mid afternoon we walk to town, over the footbridge, to try and phone our next host.  There are payphones around but they are all the card type and we only want to make one call.  At least it gives us the opportunity of finding an easier way out when we leave tomorrow.  Wish we had allowed ourselves longer here as we could have got a bus to explore the adjoining resort of Barra de Navidad but that will have to wait until next year.

MELAQUE 2

            FRIDAY 7 MARCH – We are heading inland now to cut across Mexico.  It’s another misty departure morning but it clears inland and the sun breaks through exposing huge palm and banana plantations.  The toll road to Manzanillo is free but the main road through is not so we take the free road inland through many interesting villages.  In Mexico they cannot charge a toll if there is no alternative route nearby so the new dual carriageway to Colima is free.  Local stalls line the edge selling coconuts, a bargain at 20 pesos – 10p, and salt.  Steve notices us being tailed by the Police and eventually they pull out level with us and indicate for Steve to pull over.  He is sure we have done nothing wrong and they look genuine but we are still happy to pull off at a big Pemex gas station.  The two officers get out and whilst one of them begins quizzing us the other does a thorough inspection of the outside of the motorhome.  Only one speaks a little English but we gather that a motorhome like ours was involved in an accident but didn’t stop to report it.  They make a quick phone call to verify ownership and then apologise before sending us on our way.  Glad that Kevin fixed up our bump recently or that may have taken some explaining.  Colima is backed by a huge volcano and often suffers from earthquakes so all buildings must be no higher than 2 storeys making for an attractive city.  We get a bit lost trying to find our way and end up with 1 police truck in front leading us to the house and another behind!  She’s not home but the cleaner explains she will be back later.  He home is in a very nice newly developing neighbourhood and the road outside is wide and flat for parking.  She arrives back and invites us inside.  Alpha lives with her mother and they only moved here a year ago having had the house built to their design.  It’s huge, light spacious and very modern, a total contrast to the fishermen’s homes we have been seeing.  We hit it off immediately and have lots to chat about including the coincidence that she stayed with a host in Vancouver whom we had been in contact with.  Her Mum is director of a private school and Alpha’s New Zealand boyfriend Tom teaches English there.  Her Lupita and Tom arrive home and also make us very welcome.  They have brought food to cook us a typical Mexican meal so we sit around the breakfast bar learning how to prepare it all.  After a brief siesta we go out for the evening with Alpha and Tom to the theatre.  Our journey takes us through a very modern area of the city with huge shopping malls; you could so easily be in America.  The old part of town is a different story with a very Mediterranean feel.  Pedestrianised streets are full of walkers and also old men sat down playing chess.  Surrounding the main square are many restaurants and bars with tables outside and music is coming from the central bandstand.  The nearby theatre has recently been refurbished and very impressive.  Inside the stalls are surrounded by 4 levels of shallow balconies almost like boxes but without dividers.  There is no admission charge and it is very busy but we get on the 2^nd tier up. Alpha explains that it is mainly music and dance but the occasional narration is poetry.  Much of the music is swing and jazz and it’s an interesting performance including some Charlie Chaplin clips.  Back on the streets I can’t resist buying some 5 pesos (25p) fat stubby churros (sort of stick like doughnuts) that are filled with chocolate, strawberry or condensed milk. Alpha drives us to a local bar where Steve & Tom are horrified to have their jug of beer served full of ice.  This is soon replaced by slightly warm bottles of beer; the owner explains that their drinks delivery does not arrive until 9pm so nothing is chilled!  After chatting and sharing a snack we return home to camp out on the street.

COLIMA

SATURDAY MARCH 8 – Everything is very laid back in Mexico with no fixed time for anything.  Breakfast seems to take place anywhere between 8am and 10am and the main meal mid afternoon.  Lupita and Tom go off to the school whilst Alfa has made time to take us out.  She uses the schools pick up truck so Steve gets to sit in the back Mexican style.  The nearby of Comala was home to the famous artist Alejandro Rangel Hidalgo.  20 pesos (£1) gets us into the University museum where we see examples of his work set out within his home.  His pictures all have round child like faces and look very modern.  There’s a second museum in town, 10 pesos (50p) with really interesting gardens.  Driving back through the town we can see how it got it’s name as the white village as this is the colour of all the houses.  The local drink “ponche” comes from here and after sampling a few variants we settle on the cappuccino flavour, a kind of alcoholic milk shake.  Alfa drops Steve at their home so he can watch the Liverpool match on TV and I go to the school.  Lupita bought up an old orchard and on the land has built a complete school for students 14 – 18 years.  It’s a private multi lingual school with very impressive facilities and a really nice atmosphere.  Adjoining it is an old people home that Lupita often visits.  She takes me round to meet many of the residents who enjoy the chunks of cheese she has taken for them.  After lunch I learn how to wash up Mexican style, you pile the dirty dishes in an empty sink, fill a small container with diluted washing up liquid, and dip a scouring sponge into this to clean each item individually.  These are then put into a second sink to drain some of the suds off before being rinsed under a running tap.  In the evening we are invited to join them at the opening night of a Brazilian theatre mask exhibition.  The masks are made of a kind of papier-mache and enhance the image of the actor.  As the opening night it is followed by a talk from the people involved, a couple of songs from a local band and then wine and nibbles.  We are introduced to Jair the maker of the masks and although he speaks Portuguese we manage to chat using Alfa as interpreter.  He’s a very interesting and funny guy and invites Steve & I to visit him in Brazil.  In fact we are all getting along so well he goes in search of more wine, but it’s run out.  Alfa and Lupita invite him back to their place and he agrees to come along with Miriam, a member of the cast and also his girlfriend.  The evening ends after much entertainment with us all attempting to sing a traditional song, we do Ilkley Moore Bah’ tat.

COLIMA 2

SUNDAY 9 MARCH – The day’s plans, to go to the beach, have been changed many times before Tom gives us a knock after 9am.  We’ve already had breakfast but accept an invite for a second one.  Alfa chops tortilla into small squares and fries them in a pan.  Next she adds beaten eggs followed by tomato sauce.  Once it has all mixed together she puts strips of soft white cheese on top to melt, very tasty served with a hot sauce.  Lupita is cooking a chicken dinner for the nursing home but the rest of us are free to go to the University theatre to see “El Asno” – The Donkey – play performed by Jair & Miriam’s theatre group.  It’s supposed to start at 12.00 but we arrive after that and people are still queuing to buy tickets, 60 pesos (£3). It’s a type of street theatre mixed with pantomime but all in Portuguese. Luckily much of it is slapstick comedy.  Miriam plays a gypsy girl and also a character on stilts.  We get to see a number of the mask that Jair has made and enjoy the opportunity to do something very different.  Back at home the family have decided to take Lupita’s Mum and Auntie to the beach and they are short on space so having been at the beach for most of the last 3 months we are happy to stay in the motorhome and catch up on Internet. 

COLIMA 3

MONDAY 10 MARCH – Well we haven’t seen the pyramid temple or much of the centre of Colima as we had intended but what we have done has been far more interesting to us.  Yet again our hosts have excelled themselves and we now feel we know a little more of the Mexican lifestyle.  Heading north we opt for the toll road to avoid the twisty mountain roads, Pesos 136 (£6.80).  Leaving Colima we are lucky to see the volcano begin belching out smoke.  The new road takes us over many large bridges often with fine views.  In Ciudad Guzman we meet up with our next host a young man called Fernando.  He has offered a place for us to park on his fathers ranch and leads us there in his car.  There are 11 horses stabled there but plenty of room for us in the yard.  Fernando takes us off in the car to explore the city.  His English is very good having just returned from a few months working in a restaurant in Norfolk.  In contrast to Colima this is about half the size and much quieter.  Also prone to earthquakes they decided not to replace the clock tower on the church after it fell a second time in the 1985 tremble. In the main square there is an earthquake warning board with green light to signal all is well, amber for alert (this is on today) and red for danger.  Fernando says he has never seen it on green in his lifetime!  There are 3 famous artists from this area, including Orozco, and much of their work is in the form of murals in the public buildings.  The town hall has an amazing one along 2 walls and a most unusual moulding over the staircase depicting a 3 faceted face of the artist.  It looks like the entrance to a Disney ghost ride.  In another public building there is an art exhibition with pictures of the famous “gay ghost” and a statue of the same with a protrusion under his robe!  Pause for a drink and opt for the “Jamaica water” that Alfa introduced us to.  Fernando drives us up the hill to the local park, 2 pesos – 10p, where we walk up for fine views over the city.  After an afternoon rest at home Fernando calls to pick us up in the evening.  A horse and rider come down the road towards us, Fernando’s father Antonio.  Steve is highly amused to see him trotting along drinking a can of beer.  We have a brief chat before continuing to Fernando’s home.  His Mum & Dad are separated and he lives with his Mum who has invited us for dinner.  Eloisa is the local GP and a lovely lady.  She has cooked us a traditional Mexican meal with fried tortillas stuffed with chicken and other tasty treats.  After we have eaten Eloisa heads off for an early night whilst Fernando drives us back to the main square for a parade.  We miss the fireworks but see one of the saints being paraded through the town.  People letting of rockets, dancers and a band precede the statue and behind it pilgrims carry rucksacks with camping gear for their long trek to Tapalpa.  Next to the church a group of Aztec people are performing a traditional dance to the beat of a drum.  Someone comes round dispensing free drinks of a very alcoholic ponche.  They have at least 3 x 19 litres containers of the stuff so there are going to be a few merry people by the end of the night.

CIUDAD GUZMAN

TUESDAY 11 MARCH – Fernando picks us up early to rendezvous with a guide for an 8am walk.  Alejandro and his dog Tequila walk into the mountains every 3 days to water the newly planted trees.  The project has been going for a couple of years and 3 other people come to join the group.  We take water in bottles and Alejandro in a large container on his back.  After a steep climb we reach the area where the plants are.  To maximise the effect you invert the bottle and push it into the soil close to the plant enabling to water to seep out over a few days.  These trees are needed to stop the hill eroding and all the mud sliding down into the town.  We continue the walk after the watering and reach an interesting shrine with seats enabling us to enjoy a panoramic view over the city.  Higher up is a tree swing then beyond that a cross and shrine on a tree.  Alejandro leads us along the ridge then invites us to climb up to the highest point on the top of a rock.  Now we have even better views, the city, the volcano and the lake.  The gate to the ranch is locked so to fill in time we get to visit the local lake.  People are just cleaning a large rowing boat to store, apparently the Pan Am boat races will be held here in 2 years and the locals are a strong team.  Steve has found out that he can watch this afternoons Liverpool match on his satellite TV whilst I use the Internet.  We are amazed when Fernando’s friend arrives to drop off some lunch.  Along with tostadas and tortillas he has brought a carton of goat meat that he brought from Monterrey airport, as goat is a speciality of that area.  Once again it’s very tasty food for Steve washed down with the obligatory football watching beers.  We return home with Steve a very happy bunny after Liverpool won.

CIUDAD GUZMAN 2

WEDNESDAY 12 MARCH – Again Fernando picks us up early for a trek into the mountains.  He has borrowed his Dad’s truck to get us up to the “ Parque National Nevado de Colima” so that we can do a hike to the top of the Nevado de Colima (4335m).  You can drive about 17km to the park entrance and it’s a long steady ascent.  It was 19C when we started but at the top it is down to 8C.   Fernando tells us that in the past he has cycled the whole way up in 4 hours – crazy man!  Park admission is 20 pesos (£1), a ranger from America give us a quick briefing about the volcanoes.  You can drive a further 5km before parking and walking the last leg.  The earth is like very fine powder and it’s easy to slip when you get to the steep parts.  We are soon rewarded with stunning views and rounding a bend find we are higher than and looking over to “The Volcan de Colima” 3900m, the most active volcano in Mexico.  Today there are just faint puffs of smoke coming out but the surrounding views are outstanding.  We’ve climbed to over 4000m but Fernando decides to join a couple of young lads for the last stretch whilst we walk down slowly.  It’s around 3pm when we get back to the city so we head home and I cook us all a pasta and salad meal.  There are 4 Mexicans working at the ranch and I send a plateful over so they can try our kind of food and it seems to go down well as the plates come back empty!

CIUDAD GUZMAN 3

THURSDAY 13 MARCH – Leaving the ranch is fun as it was a tight squeeze to get in so they decide to cut some branches back.  Everyone is so kind and accommodating here and nothing seems too much trouble.  Fernando leads us to the local tyre garage for us to check the air before leaving.  Getting out of the city is a long job as the main road is closed with roadworks.  There are very few main roads around so we are lucky to have Fernando guide us on a circuitous route along narrow one way streets, alone I think we would still be either driving round or stuck!  Take the toll road, 136 pesos (£6.80), towards Guadalajara and pass a couple of huge dried up lakes, both with lots of sand blowing around and a few twisters.  Turn off towards Lake Chapala, the largest natural lake in Mexico.  There are a number of large and small towns along the lakeside and it’s a popular spot for Americans and Canadians to live due to the perfect climate.  In fact Ajijic has the largest ex-pat community in the world at over 10,000.  Getting to the waters edge is nigh on impossible as wall to wall houses prevent access and the few streets that lead there are narrow and twisting.  At Ajijic we follow directions to our hosts house and have to put our confidence in the fact that she understands the size of our vehicle, as the narrow cobblestone streets could be quite intimidating.   HTuWe find a spot in the private street behind her house and wait for her to return from work.  The moment we meet Linda we know we are going to get on well.  She designed the Italian style villa that she lives in and it is superb.  In place of a garden she has a central swimming pool with steps leading up to the lounge.  There’s a nice restaurant nearby on the lakeshore within walking distance.  La Tasca has live music and it’s loud so we sit outside so that we can talk.  We share a large Mexican style steak platter and for the first time eat cactus topped with cheese, very little taste but good to try.  Linda is put out when the bill arrives with 30 pesos (£1.50) pp cover charge.  She has been there many times before and not paid it and bearing in mind we sat outside to able to chat rather than dance it does not go down well.  A chat with the owner’s son sorts things out.

AJIJIC

FRIDAY 14 MARCH – Linda works at a the real estate agency that she started up but has now handed over the reins and only puts in a few hours a week.  Whilst she is out we are invited to make use of the Internet connection and telephone with free calls to UK and USA.  Before we know it Linda has arrived back to pick me up for the ladies lunch.  Further along the waterfront “Roberto’s” is the choice for this week.  You used to be able to drive to the front of the restaurant to park but it has now been cordoned off, the area cleared of rubbish and imported sand due to arrive to create a man made beach.  The other ladies are all Canadian and Americans Carol, Barbara, Jane, Pat and Cece.  After an initial curiosity about me the conversation reverts to the normal topic of wealth, men and health.  It seems that many women here are married to much older men who are now ill!  Whilst Linda is out in the afternoon we take a walk around the rather charming village of Ajijic then return to enjoy the swimming pool.  Although kidney shaped it is around 10m long so great for swimming, it even has a deep end so you can dive in off the balcony.  She returns from work to suggest a ride out to the next large town of Chapala.  There’s a wedding taking place so we check out the local church.  This is the beginning of “Semana Santa” and it is absolutely full of heavenly scented flowers.  We stroll along the waterfront and admire the new promenade and man-made beach.  This area has fewer ex pats so has a totally different feel and consequently does not have a bar behind the beach for us to stop and have a drink! 

AJIJIC 2

SATURDAY 15 MARCH – Linda wants to build a pagoda on the roof so we pick up her handyman Clemente before visiting the ironmongers.  It’s interesting to learn the different building techniques used in other countries.  We are impressed that they are going to deliver the goods within a couple of hours so drop Clemente back at the house.  Linda wants to take us to an area of Guadalajara known as Tlaquepaque. It’s a really interesting place with old mansions converted into showrooms for local artwork.  Much of it is huge and over the top but would be perfect for a hotel or bank.  After stopping for a beer we return to the square in Ajijic for a more reasonably priced lunch.  Time for a siesta before heading out to visit Linda’s friend Barbara who has a house up in the hills.  Her sister in law Leah is staying and we find lots to talk about as she is in the travel industry.  Sit out on the terrace to watch the sunset over the lake.

AJIJIC 3

SATURDAY 16 FEBRUARY – Steve gets up early for a sprint to the bathroom but doesn’t return.  I get up about half an hour later to find him sleeping like a baby in the hammock.  It’s a gorgeous morning so I stroll along the beach watching the fishermen in their small canoes.  We’ve getting to know a few more people here and I go up for a chat with Bob & Ronnie from the Isle of Wight.  They have bought a motorhome in USA and shipped it back to UK so have lot of advice.  On the afternoon Steve has a paddle whilst I swim in the warm sea.

TEACAPAN 5, PLAYA LAS LUPITAS

SUNDAY 17 FEBRUARY – Everyone lingers in bed, of course being a Sunday we don’t have to get up for work but no matter how long we wait the papers never get delivered!  Steve’s feeling much better and potters round catching up on a few jobs.  Mid morning we set out for a walk north along the beach all the way the next campground, Tambora.  There are only 5 people there, the 100 pesos (£5) fee seems reasonable as it includes electric but the ocean here is much rougher and the long beach more windswept.  Walking back we meet a gang of Mexican lads who have small planks of wood that they are using to collect crabs at low tide.  They dig down with the stick then flick the crab up into a bucket.  After a leisurely lunch I sit out swinging in the hammock only to get a shock when the rope snaps and I suddenly find myself flat on the grass – glad it was near to the ground and not up in the trees.  In the afternoon a group of Mexicans arrive and one begins shinning up the palm trees to collect coconuts.  Someone on the ground has a rope slung up over the branches to enable them to lower the clusters.  By removing the coconuts they are increasing the areas where people can camp as the winds over the last couple of days have caused a number to drop.  Afterwards the group gather round tables for a meal and start a fire to burn some of the coconut husks.  We make a late stroll through the campground and sit chatting to Bob & Ronnie.  Steve is definitely feeling better as he accepts a small beer.

TEACAPAN 6, PLAYA LAS LUPITAS

MONDAY 18 FEBRUARY – I’m up at 6.30am for an early stroll along the beach.  Steve is feeling much better so we accept Fernan & Nicole’s offer of a ride into town.  The outskirts of the village are now showing signs of development and we see some areas where people have already built and moved in and others that are staked out as lots.  The fishing village is really big with streets running off in all directions from the “main” road.  Small shops and street stands about and not of word of English is heard.  There’s a new Internet café, 10 pesos (50p) and hour so I catch up on mail.  Down at the waterfront and beyond the dirt roads you suddenly reach the fully paved dual carriageway of the “Malecon” complete with street lighting.  The town seems to be developing in a very uncontrolled manner as we reach a very modern hotel with swimming pool and a couple of luxury residences but they are opposite the smelly fishing port and next to a small shack made of corrugated iron.  We plan to leave tomorrow so have invited a number of our new friends around for happy hour.  Malcolm has set up a fireplace and once we have finished our snacks and it has gone dark we sit around the fire trying to keep warm.  It’s a cool damp evening, so much so that condensation from the trees drops onto the motorhome roof all night.

TEACAPAN 7, PLAYA LAS LUPITAS 

Fernan & Nicole – Quebec

Bob & Ronnie – Isle of Wight

Rob & Daphne – BC

Harry & Betty – Arizona

Tard & Betty – New Mexico

Kirsten & Helen – (Germany & England)

TUESDAY 19 FEBRUARY – Thanks to the Japanese water torture we are all up early and ready to hit the road by 8.30am.  It’s still very misty so it makes it much easier to leave this lovely spot.  Pick up the free Mex 15 heading south through agricultural plains and banana plantations.  The sun comes out and it soon turns into a hot day.  Most of the villages we pass through have narrow cobbled streets and no road signs but we are learning to pick our way through with fewer problems.  Topes (speed bumps) are a continuous hazard sometimes you get a warning sign but at other times not and occasionally you get a warning sign but then no bumps!  C&M want to visit the Huichol Centre for Cultural Survival and Traditional Arts and we have to drive through the centre of Santiago Ixcuintla to get to it. It’s a large bustling market town with an attractive main square and a street with mosaic style murals on both walls.  Steve & I are unimpressed with the cultural centre as we just see it as a few rooms with different local crafts on display however C&M are impressed and come away with a few purchases.  The next town is San Blas where we head to Playa de Barrego.  Palapa restaurants line the back of the beach and we park by the last restaurant and agree to have a meal there tomorrow.  C&M walk back and explore the town whilst we relax behind the long sandy beach.  This area is notorious for mosquitoes and no see um style bugs but luckily the wind and cooler weather at the moment is keeping most at bay.  Late at night we find young kids coming to the restaurant to sit on their chairs.  When another car arrives with music playing Steve goes out to investigate.  They are having an impromptu party and invite him to join but he declines and says we will move off.  With C&M lying in the over cab bed we retreat down the road to the first car park.

SAN BLAS

WEDNESDAY 20 FEBRUARY – Steve & I take a walk to the town and find a pleasant traditional village with very few tourists.  Call in at Los Cocos Internet café on the way back.  Steve tells me to take my time when he finds Playboy magazines in the pile of reading material!  Return to move the van back to the restaurant where we enjoy a fish lunch.  Your filleted fish can be cooked in butter or breadcrumbs and is served with rice, salad, chips and fried potato for 70 pesos (£3.50).  We’ve just finished eating when the local ice cream man arrives to supply us with dessert.  Whilst C&M go back to explore the town I head off with Steve on the track behind the beach.  He walked there yesterday and introduces me to Don who is renovating a house.  It’s a large 2 bedroom, 2 bathroom one that has survived the hurricane, of a few years ago, sufficiently to be done up.  Others nearby have not done so well, his neighbour’s house is overgrown with creepers and inhabited by bats.   Further along you can see the remains of a huge modern hotel, what’s left looks like a façade.  Early evening we re locate to the quieter car park.  Claire spots the new moon rising and then points out to us that it is beginning to be eclipsed by the earths shadow.  Makes for some interesting photos. 

SAN BLAS 2

THURSDAY 21 FEBRUARY – Make an early start to drive back to the bridge on the outskirts of town in order to take a boat trip into the jungle.  Run by a co-operative the price is fixed at 90 pesos (£4.50) pp (min 4) for a 3-hour trip to the hot springs.  Board our “lancha” then set off racing up the main river before turning off into a narrow mangrove lined channel.  Here we begin to see many different species of bird.  There are obvious creeks with a way through but it is often very narrow and frequently the undergrowth dangles overhead causing you to keep ducking down.  Apparently it was here that Walt Disney gained his inspiration for his jungle boat ride.  We pass a very pretty spot with 3 houses on stilts that were used as a movie set.  Emerging from the jungle we pass between fields with lots of ferns.  We turn a corner to reach the dead end at La Tavora springs.  We are the first boat in and the restaurant is not even open.  Hop out and walk around to the area that has been netted off to keep the crocodiles out enabling you to swim in relative safety.  Steve & I enjoy a dip in the warmish water whilst C&M walk around trying to find more birds to photograph.  On the trip back Steve & I manage to get the front seats enabling us to assist our guide in wildlife spotting.  We see crocodiles (they look more like long nosed alligators to us), a snake, iguana, turtles and racoon but could probably have seen more had our driver not been so insistent in getting back quickly.  At Mantanchen we stop to pay the co-operative for the boat ticket and pick up the soft drink that is included.  We could have taken the same trip from there but the price is the same even though the trip is shorter.  We arrive back at 10.30am after just short of 2 ½ hours so think he was rushing back to try and get another trip in before lunch.  Our journey south takes us past many more beautiful beaches then up over a couple of hilly areas with fine views.  Just beyond Las Varas at the turnoff to Chacala there are numerous fruit stalls selling local produce.  C&M return with a bag of bananas, pineapples, watermelon and the local speciality yaka.  Playa Chacala used to be accessed by dirt track but since the road was paved it has become more popular.  RV’ers camp in different places along and behind the beach and a small community of restaurants, tourist shops and mini supermarkets has emerged.  It’s a very pretty spot and we take a site amongst the trees, having first checked that we are unlikely to be hit by a dropping coconut.  A car rally pulls in for a lunch stop so we get chance to look over lots of old vehicles.  At one end of the beach there is a row of shops leading up the hill to the village and at the other end a luxury hotel – quite a contrast.  It’s a beautiful beach so we spend the afternoon there and even take a dip.  Sunset is great and after our evening meal we take a stroll into “town” but there’s nothing much happening. 

PLAYA CHACALA

FRIDAY 22 FEBRUARY – We’ve spotted a nicer parking spot further along the beach so re-locate after breakfast.  We are now directly behind the beach with a picture perfect palm tree in front of us, very tropical.  Our morning walk takes us along the beach and around to the local fishing port.  Pass many iguanas sunbathing on the rocks.  The water is lovely and warm so we have many swims.  I’ve had my last dip and am about to step into the shower when I hear Steve coming back from his swim crying out for me.  He’s stepped on a stingray and the barbed tail has cut him between his toes.  I’ve no first aid knowledge on the correct procedure but do remember that white vinegar is used for jellyfish and other stings so dunk his foot in a jug of that.  I take a closer look and find it is a small cut between his little and next toe.  If it weren’t for his foot starting to go numb I would not be worried.  Clean him up and put a clean dressing on then sit him down with his medicine - rum and coke.  We’d seen the stingrays earlier and I have worn shoes in the water since but Steve felt he would be OK having done the shuffle going in and out.  He was starting to swim and realised his shorts were on back to front.  Having removed them he put his foot down to put them back on and that is when he got stung.  Of course before he could make his way to the shore he had to put his shorts back on!  By the time I’ve showered his foot is feeling normal and he can now walk on it.    Sit out by the campfire with our Quebec neighbours Nicole and Albert.

PLAYA CHACALA 2

SATURDAY 23 FEBRUARY – Enjoy our breakfast sat out with a superb view of the bay.  I take a morning walk and dip but Steve is no longer keen to go in the ocean.  As I final lunch at the beach for C&M I cook up a Mexican meal of refried beans, rice, enchiladas and baked peppers.  In the evening we stroll around the village looking for the advertised live music but to no avail.  We pop into a bar – restaurant just as they are about to close and order drinks.  It amuses us to see young lads being sent out to the local shops and liquor store to buy the ingredients for our margarita and pina coladas.  Once they have customers other people gravitate towards the bar and each time a drink is ordered the lads are dispatched with the empty beer bottles as well.  An entertaining evening after all.

PLAYA CHACALA 3

SUNDAY 24 FEBRUARY – We leave on a misty morning bound for Puerto Vallarta, the main tourist destination for Americans and Canadians.  Crossing From Nayarit into Jalisco state clocks go forward 1-hour to “central” (GMT – 6hrs).  We drop down a hill into a different world, white people everywhere, signs in English and wall to wall hotels.  Tacho’s Trailer Park is on the northern outskirts, near the airport and with public transport to get us to the tourist areas and old town.  I take our washing to the laundry across the road, 11 pesos (55p) per kilo for wash & dry.  Local buses have a flat fare of 5 pesos (25p) and we hop on one that takes us south to the main beachfront area.  Begin our walk along the “Malecon” where there are lots of interesting sculptures, impressive sand sculptures and an unusual display of balancing rocks.  Timeshare touts approach us but we can’t participate as we are staying at the trailer park and to qualify you must be in a hotel and we are UK not USA citizens.  The persistent vendor says Steve’s USA driving licence gets over the residency problem and that it will be OK if he just writes in the name of a hotel for us.  Can’t resist the offer of $£300 (£150) plus a free breakfast for taking a 90-minute presentation at the Mayan Palace tomorrow morning.  He asks for a $30 deposit (to be refunded when we show up), reduces it to $10 then finally takes our booking without a deposit.  Playa Del Sol Grand for $200 but we mention we were already offered $300 for a different one.  He ups his offer to 3000 pesos (£150)  + breakfast + a bottle of tequila + a Mexican blanket + $30 (£15) for our camping fees (shown on the form as a deposit paid by us even though we have agreed no deposit) as we will need to stay an extra night to do the presentation on Tuesday.  At this rate we could be held up here for quite some time!  Back on the Malecon we are side tracked near the ladder sculpture as “Cheeky Monkey Bar” offers $1 (50p) margaritas.  Refreshed we manage to make it to the old town where the cathedral has an impressive crown on top of the spire.  High up in the back streets we find the house that Richard Burton bought for Elizabeth Taylor.  He had a place over the road and a pink love bridge connects them.  Back at sea level we cross on a swing bridge to a small island containing a flea market.  The bridge at the far side brings us to the southern part of town where the cheaper hotels are located plus many back street restaurants.  C&M have offered to take us for a “thank you” meal and we find an interesting restaurant “Pacifica Grill” offering steak and all you can eat shrimp menu.  We are first in when it opens at 5pm and it soon fills up.  The 3-course meal is excellent and the number of extra shrimps the others get through amazes me – they are offered steamed, in beer batter or coated in coconut and served with a selection of dips.  Emerge just in time to walk to the beach for a lovely sunset, can’t believe it when the Americans clap.  The Malecon is now very busy and we pause to watch many street performers before reaching “Cheeky Monkey” for another drink.  Bus it back to Wal-art for a quick shop before walking home to upload photos etc for C&M.

PUERTO VALLARTA, TACHOS TRAILER PARK

290 pesos (£14.50)

MONDAY 25 FEBRUARY – Leave C&M packing up whilst we go to the presentation.  We are supposed to be picked up outside the campground but our lift does not arrive.  With little to lose we take 2 buses up to Nuevo Vallarta (the second longer ride 12 pesos, 60p) and then begin a bit of a hike to the Mayan Palace.  This is a new rapidly developing tourists area and hotels are springing up all along the beach.  Arriving at Mayan Palace the representative looks suspiciously at our paper.  He asks who gave them to us and says they are old forms no longer in use.  We can still do the presentation but the reward has dropped to $100 (£50) + breakfast.  Next he queries the hotel we are supposedly staying in and says that to qualify you must be in a main tourist hotel at $80 or more per night and the one on the form is not.  By now we are fed up wasting our time and want to speak to the Manager to tell him about the fake tout who got us there under false pretences and is no doubt taking deposits off other tourists.  After all he wouldn’t want us telling this story to other people surely?  He seems uninterested in this angle and says the Manager is part of the Mexican mafia, things are done differently in Mexico and that we should take the offered 180 pesos (£9) for a taxi a buzz off – we do!  There are a few things that don’t add up in our minds but we put it all down to an interesting experience.  Arrive back to find C&M packed up and about ready to go.  They are taking a taxi to the airport for their flight to LA then onwards to England tomorrow.  Spend the afternoon cleaning up and rearranging the van but run out of steam half way through.  The majority of people on the campground are Canadians from Quebec, almost no one speaks to you and they seem quite unfriendly.  Collecting the laundry we find that things are not really clean and don’t smell particularly fresh so we retract the second lot that we had put in. 

PUERTO VALLARTA 2, TACHOS TRAILER PARK

TUESDAY 26 FEBRUARY – Walk to Wal-Mart where the timeshare rep is waiting for us.  He quickly exchanges our form and says he has altered to hotel to the Marina Condos, as they are in the area that we know and meet the other criteria.  He checks that we have our photo ID’s and credit card and dispatches us in a pre paid taxi.  Arriving at the Flamingo resort we are met by Jose who takes us to one side.  He is obviously in cahoots with the tout and runs us through the routine even telling us to say we have come from Arizona to explain our suntans.  At this stage he does refund the $30 (£15) deposit that we didn’t pay, in other words our campsite fees.  An office girl begins the paperwork but is not happy that I only have a UK drivers licence as opposed to Steve’s USA one.  We explain that the rep checked what we had before he sent us up in the taxi but they still can’t proceed.  They say that the only way to do the promotion is to go back and get our passports (can’t do that as it would show a different entry date into Mexico) or Steve as a single man at half the reward but they would need his credit card and we have only brought mine.  We go back to talk to Jose and decide to bail out.  He puts us in a free taxi back so less time wasted than yesterday!  So we reckon that although we won’t do it again here we do have better info as to how to do it in another resort.  Jose explained that they wouldn’t take people from the trailer park as they can only convert 1 in10 to buy whereas 1 in 3 people in hotels sign up. It’s now almost 10.30am and we have no reason to stay in PV so in spite of the time we do a quick pack up and hit the road at 11am.  It feels a little strange to be travelling alone.  Entering Mexico we had Kevin & Ruth tagging and Claire & Malcolm staying with us since Cabo San Lucas.  We manage to get totally confused by the road signs and end up driving right along the Malecon and through the old town before emerging ½ hour later at the south end of town.  The road heads along the coast up the hills with fine views including the 3 rock arches.  Mismaloya Beach, where “Night of the Iguana” was filmed, is the last part of the coast before we head inland through the mountains.  Get stuck behind a caravan of 3 fifth wheels, very frustrating as they are going much slower than us and show no consideration to other drivers by periodically pulling over.  Get past them at lunchtime and make good progress back to the coast to arrive at Tenacatita at 3pm.  The slabs camping area is on a narrow peninsula with beaches on both sides (so we get a sunrise and sunset over the ocean) and coral reef in the water.  Canadians Jack & Bonnie move their car so we can park beside them on one of the concrete slabs.  They make us so welcome that within minutes we are sat out enjoying an early “happy hour” with them.  Our other neighbour Cathie is an elderly ex Scottish lady who travels with her small dog Lady in a car with a small caravan.  She is really adventurous and backpacks in other parts of the world as well.  There’s a kind of caretaker here called “Chewy” and you are expected to “tip” him about 50 pesos (£2.50) a day for staying here.  Reckon we could be settled into this beautiful spot for a good few days.

TENACATITA SLABS  

WEDNESDAY 27 FEBRUARY – We’ve had a lovely peaceful night.  Jack & Bonnie are off to La Manzanilla for Internet and invite us along.  On the way back they drop us in Tenacatita to explore.  Away from the slabs the dusty street is lined with mini supermarkets and restaurant.  There’s a modern campground, a couple of nice hotels with swimming pools then beyond all development another cheap camping area.  People pull up beside the palapas and wait for the owner to collect money; low season rate is $100 (£50) month.  Walk home and decide that we have the best spot for us and it get even better once we re adjust our position to fully enjoy the sea view.  Cathie’s car is broken down but Jack has bought her some transmission fluid back and he and Steve have a good at fixing things up for her.  It seems to have worked so tomorrow she will go for a test drive.  Steve does a bit of snorkelling in the afternoon but with the full moon the tides are high and the waves strong.  The water is a bit murky and he is now afraid of getting caught by the stingrays.  Todays on site deliveries are from a beer truck and a gas (propane) tanker.  Needless to say the beer truck does most business.  Doing a late afternoon walk Steve meets up with Bruce & Karen at the far end of the beach, we first met them in Juncalito when they told us about this place.  Being on a peninsula we have a sunrise and sunset beach so join Jack, Bonnie and Cathie on the other side to sip tequila whilst watching the sunset.  After our evening meal we join fellow campers around a beach fire.

TENACATITA SLABS 2

THURSDAY 28 FEBRUARY – A very hot start to the day.  A bread delivery van arrives selling rolls at 3 pesos (15p), the same price as the small local stores.  Another water delivery is also made, 14 pesos (70p) for 19 litres.  Make a short walk part way round the headland to see the waves crashing into the rocks.  A stingray warning sign appears on our beach and Chewy tells us the best treatment is to put the injured part in hot water with one of the special local plants, but he can’t tells us which one!  A local lady comes round selling slices of milk flan and shortly after a lad with lots of pastries, you certainly would not need to move from here for shortage of food and drink.  Happy hour with wine at our place and as it is such a pleasant warm and light evening this goes on until well after 7pm.  Jack & Bonnie come round in the evening to learn more about hospitality club. 

TENACATITA SLABS 3

FRIDAY 29 FEBRUARY – We are woken early morning by are car pulling up nearby followed by lots of voices and then hammering.  When we finally get up we find a large tent has been erected in front of us and 4 Mexican middle-aged men are sat out at their table drinking.  They are down from Guadalajara for the weekend and have just made the 5-hour drive.  When the vendors arrive we share a huge 100 pesos (£5) sack of oranges with Jack & Bonnie.  Jack helps Steve with a repair to our leaking shower tray.  We think that Malcolm’s weight has caused it to sink a little and produced a leak by the plug.  In case we get any more weighty visitors we decide to pack wood underneath to create better support.  Steve does a quick snorkelling expedition in the afternoon and although the water is too cloudy for good visibility he does spot over 20 stingrays.  The 4 men spend the day playing loud music and partying, they have parked their car right in front of Cathies caravan and seem totally oblivious to the fact that we have all lost our view even though they could have pitched in many other places.  At least she is leaving tomorrow having had a new gasket fitted to her transmission leak.  Whilst sitting out having our happy hour we are amused to see the Mexicans receive a delivery of a fish dinner from a restaurant .

TENACATITA SLABS 4