200903

 

SUNDAY 1 MARCH 2009 – Heading further up the coast we get a great view from the “mirador”.  Zihuatanejo is a traditional fishing village and now linked to Ixtapa, a purpose built tourist resort.  We go for the former and stop off to do a bit of shopping before heading to Playa La Ropa.  There are a few camping options here but El Manglar is full and just a basic parking area for which they ask P300 (£15), Casa Bella opposite is also full.  Between them is a private house and we are waved into their walled garden to park up for P100 (£5).  David says we are fine there overnight.  It is his birthday so lots of friends are around celebrating with a meal.  Although we cannot see the beach it is just a short walk away and we are amazed to see just how busy and touristy it is.  All kinds of water sports are on offer, restaurants run along the back between hotels and vendors keep walking around.  There must be hundreds of people on the beach, a far cry from yesterday when it didn’t even get into double figures.  Settle down with Sandra on the lounger in the full sun, Steve in the half shade and me under an umbrella.  Sandra is whacked from the walks we have done so Steve and I stroll around the large bay.  We all take a few dips in the ocean, easier to get in and out but still with a few sneaky waves.  David whose garden we are in also has a small restaurant and we order our evening meal from him.  He sets up a table for 3 complete with tablecloth and miniature orange tree decoration.  Unlike the tourist beach restaurants we only pay P45 (£2.25) for mahi mahi fish, sticky rice, tomatoes, onions, beans and tortillas and P60 (£3) for 12 prawns with the same accompaniments.  We’ve tired Sandra out again so she has an evening nap whilst Steve and I take a stroll to the beach to be amazed by the sheer number of lights around. 

ZIHUATANEJO, DAVIDS GARDEN, P100 (£5)

59 MILES

 

MONDAY 2 MARCH – We manage an 8.30am start but within a couple of hours Sandra is snoozing on the sofa, think the morphine patches are knocking her out.  Near Lazaro Cardenas we pass a huge British steel works with a canal linking it to the shipping port.  Cross into MICHOCAN state as we drive over a dam with nice river views.  Heading up the coast there are lots of really nice beaches.  Most of them are small ones backed by palms or little coves with rocks.  Caleta De Campos is famous as the best place for the seasonal phenomenon of the green ocean.  If conditions are right the ocean glows a bright luminous green and if you go swimming you come out covered in green sparkles.  Having driven down the new road to town we turn left and head to the last restaurant behind the beach to park up for P50 (£2.50).  This is a total contrast to yesterday with just a handful of Mexicans on the beach.  At low tide you can walk all the way around the bay.  The sand is white but mixed with an olive green hue.  At one end there are a few surfers but this is not the main surfing season. I make up pina colada for us to enjoy before sunset.  Although we are in the right season for the green spectacle conditions are obviously not right as there is nothing to be seen, maybe a full moon would have worked better. 

CALETA DE CAMPOS – FREE

110 MILES

 

TUESDAY 3 MARCH – When we come to pay the restaurant lady she won’t accept any money so Steve gives a coin to her son and a gift.  The coastal Mex 200 continues to reward us with fantastic scenery, a bit like the Great Ocean Road in Australia.  As well as running along the coast it frequently veers inland up into the mountains meaning lots of twists and turns.  Sandra suffers with travel sickness so ends up lying down again.  It takes just over 2-hours to reach Maruata where we find a restaurant parking spot behind one of the beaches.  Sandra cooks up beef bourguignon for lunch and is surprised that the lovely looking meat is to my expectations of being rather chewy.   Exploring the beach we find that we are in an area with numerous small beaches surrounding a rocky outcrop.  There are many holes in the rocks and crevices that roar with the incoming waves.  Further east we reach the western end of the main beach with a small river where the fishing boats anchor.  You can get really close to the birds here as they scavenge for fish scraps.  This beach is much calmer for swimming.  The naval base backs the middle of the beach where a couple of Canadians are also free camped.  Spend the rest of the afternoon with Sandra sunbathing, Steve mixing beach with shade and me by the motorhome. 

MARUATA BEACH – FREE

64 MILES

 

WEDNESDAY 4 MARCH – Seem to be managing an 8.30am start to the day’s journeys, which is pretty good with 3 of us.  It is early in the day when we stop to check out the American owned campground Rancho Bougainvillea at km196.  It’s a pretty hillside setting but regimented sites with vehicles close together and a bit of a walk down to the beach.  They want P210 (£10.50) for dry camping so all in all not a great option for us.  At the border into COLIMA state we get the army inspection inside the vehicle.  They look in lots of our cupboards but don’t do an efficient enough inspection to have found anything that we may have wanted to hide.  We suddenly find ourselves on a very good, wide flat road and can now maintain 80kph for more than a few yards.  We take the free road and turn off to the Mexican beach resort of Cuyutlan.  There’s a turtle sanctuary at the southern end and the P25 (£1.25) admission includes use of their swimming pool.  Unfortunately today they are having staff training and will close at 1pm instead of 4.30pm.  They have quite a few turtles in pools with information in English, a few crocodiles and iguanas but it is not great, however the swim in the pool is most welcome.  Move off to park behind the beach.  It looks like this area is starting to be developed with lots marked off and many sprouting mansions.  We pick a vacant one between two of them and park up for the afternoon and night.  The beach is completely deserted with blackish sand (probably from the Colima volcano) and a rough ocean but beautiful.  Other than one train going through blowing its horn we have an extremely peaceful night.

CUYUTLAN BEACH – FREE

89 MILES

 

THURSDAY 5 MARCH – At the north end of the village we try to join the road to Manzanillo but the only choice is the toll road.  At the booth we see they want P230 (£11.50) so we double back 8km to pick up the free road.  Eventually we make it down to the waterfront in Manzanillo near the naval base then head towards the hotel zone.  The road is in terrible condition with lots of traffic so not an enjoyable driving experience.  To cap it all we see nothing of great interest.  It is nice to be returning to Melaque, by coincidence we were here exactly a year ago.  The “almost free camping” area have put the price up to P40 (£2) night or P1000 (£50) a month but they have now got a proper dump station and are putting in a toilet block.  Manage to get a great position with a palapa on the bank overlooking the river and the bay.  Take an afternoon walk into town to do the Internet and learn that Keith is ready to put a deposit on Harry.  After cooking us fish & chips for our supper I take Sandra for a walk along the “malecon”.  A fisherman throws his scraps to the pelicans and there is a feeding frenzy.  One gets a huge fish but it sits in his beak pouch with lots of protrusions.  For the next half hour we watch it trying to swallow it.  The bird doesn’t want to spit it back out as the others would take it so periodically it tries to shuffle it around but with limited success.  Eventually it flies off with his huge pouch hanging down.  Not sure whether it will survive as the things sticking into the pouch looked really sharp.

MELAQUE – P40 (£2)

75 MILES

 

FRIDAY 6 MARCH – It is a short drive to take us to Tenacatita Slabs, one of our favourite camping spots.  It is rather like coming home as we end up on exactly the same slab as last year.  Clem & Barb are already here plus Maz and his wife who we met last year.  We are soon set up next to a couple of American families.  The tide is very low and snorkelling difficult.  Stingrays are out in force and a Mexican girl gets a barb in her foot and has to be taken to hospital.  Shortly after an American guy also gets a small sting.  We wear our crocs in the water and swim on the opposite sandy beach.  There are so many people to chat to the day goes really quickly and we also have an hour in the evening at Maz’s.

TENACATITA SLABS – Donation

24 MILES

 

SATURDAY 7 MARCH – For the first day with Sandra we don’t have to move anywhere so lie in until 8.30am.  Lucas & Marcel (the Quebec couple we met in Zipolite) arrive, they have moved from Melaque as loads of Mexicans arrived and played loud music all night.  They opt to park here but further round the bay.  Quite a few Mexicans arrive and set up camp with one car parked right beside us for the shade.  They all like to play loud music but luckily the guy by us has good taste and we like his selection.  Sandra wants to take us out for a meal so we head off for lunch in the village.  At the restaurant with the stone arches we enjoy chilli rellanas (a huge chilli pepper stuffed with cheese and fried) whilst Sandra has a delicious coconut shrimp.  We are pestered with vendors and shoo them all away until we notice one lot coming round with desserts.  The flan (sort of home made crème caramel) is excellent buy it seems strange that they are welcome to wander around the restaurants making sales.  Sandra is almost falling asleep at the end of the meal so we go home for her to have a nap whilst we explore the bay.  It is a really low tide and the coral pools are like aquariums where ankle deep in water you can see colourful fish.  We find a small rock pool with 14 stingray trapped.  Clem hosts happy hour and after a brief gap we re gather for Maz’s evening fire.  This is such a neat spot with friendly people that it is almost tempting to send Sandra on ahead on a bus and stay here for longer!  Although the days are still very hot the nights are getting cooler as we head north and finally we have to put a cover on top of the sheet.

TENACATITA 2

 

SUNDAY 8 MARCH - For our last journey with Sandra we get up early and watch the sunrise during breakfast.  Quite a few people have come out to wave us off whilst Harry & Margot waste no time in relocating to our slot as we back off the slab.  We’ve done this journey coming south before so know it is going to take about 4-hours and it does.  Sandra does not enjoy it at all as she doesn’t like the twisty roads and the bumps give her a lot of pain.  We find it quite scenic especially the last stretch into Puerta Vallarta.  Return to Tachos Trailer Park and get a lovely spot opposite the swimming pool.  Jack & Michelle whom we met in Tangolunda are camped opposite and fill is in on how things work.  After Sandra has had a rest and we’ve eaten we catch a bus to the centre, P5.50 (28p).  The Malecon is much quieter than when we were here last year with Claire & Malcolm and that was also on a Sunday.  Cheeky Monkey still does the $1 margaritas or beers but this year this converts to P13 (65p).  At the bridge over the river it is interesting to see dozens of Mexicans having a great time swimming in the water backed by a fantastic luxury hotel with absolutely no one enjoying their infinity pool.  Sandra wants to treat us to another meal and the place we went to with Claire & Malcolm is closed but further down Basilio Badillo at No 223 is “Asaderos” advertising all you can eat BBQ for P125 (£6.75).  The meal is excellent as it includes cheese and bean tortillas with salsa to start then a huge platter of spicy sausage, chicken, ribs and fajita steak along with peppers, onions, radish, spring onion and tortillas.  We just about make it through the first batch but have to refuse second helpings.  Steve enjoys a game of pool with one of the staff before we leave to catch the sunset at the beach.  Along the Malecon there are lots of food stalls and the ones selling homemade gateau are just too tempting for me.  Walking back Sandra picks up a few souvenirs and we visit Senor Frog shop.  Of course we just have to go back to Cheeky Monkey for a last drink before catching the bus home.

PUERTO VALLARTA TACHOS TRAILER PARK – P290 (£14.50)

124 MILES

 

MONDAY 9 MARCH – Whilst Sandra sunbathes away the day I set about giving Harry a much needed clean up and bringing the washing up to date.  It is a tough call as the swimming pool is really nice here.  Late afternoon Sandra & Robert arrive and stay for a couple of hours.  After supper Sandra & I take a stroll around the campground to look at all the decorative lights outside the motorhomes.

PUERTO VALLARTA 2, TACHOS TRAILER PARK

 

TUESDAY 10 MARCH – Sandra picks up hot dogs for breakfast from Wal Mart whilst I shop.  The airport is a short drive north of the city and we have to stay on the laterals in a large vehicle so miss the turning.  This works out really well as we can pull up by a pedestrian overpass that leads you straight into the terminal building.  I walk Sandra over then leave her to make her way for her flight to Acapulco via Mexico City.  We continue north in the state of NAYARIT             where we should put our clocks back 1-hour but don’t because the tourist sections still work on PV time.  In Bucerias we go onto Tres Banderas campground.  It’s normally $25 (£18) but we negotiate P200 (£10) just for parking.  Robert arrives shortly after and brings Sandra’s brother Phillip to meet us.  In the afternoon Steve goes off with Robert in hunt of a pub showing the Liverpool match.  Sandra takes me on a tour beginning at her sisters home then on to the house that she is now building and there I meet Karen & Claude.  Next we go for a drive around the coast to Punta Mita.  There’s a lovely long flat beach there but it is almost too windy for us to lie down sunbathing for long without being sand blasted.  When we get back I have time to make use of the campsite laundry P20 (£1).  Steve & Robert arrive back after being on a real wild goose chase and ending up in a pub just a couple of blocks from here.  At least Liverpool had a great game and won!  In the evening we join Robert & Sandra in their motorhome parked next to Karen’s where we have a lovely meal of seafood pasta. 

BUCERIAS, LAS TRES BANDERAS – P200 (£10)

13 MILES

 

WEDNESDAY 11 MARCH – We’ve had a bad night disturbed by numerous dogs, roosters and traffic.  However we want to spend more time with Sandra & Robert so will tolerate it a bit longer.  Sandra picks me up for a shopping trip to Mega.  Using the ATM I find out the deposit on the sale of Harry has gone through.  Funnily enough we have had a lot of interest in him recently, someone even came up to us on the campground yesterday to ask if it was for sale, we’ve had an E-mail from an Aussie wanting to do an exchange and even Sandra & Robert were considering selling their motorhome as they much prefer ours.  Having picked up the lads we head off north up the coast.  First we stop at Roga’s Restaurant to see about returning for sunset as it has fine views.  However to get to it you go up in this flimsy outside lift that Steve hates.  There are obviously no regulations here as the door to the outside and the internal lift door can both be left open at any stage and the floor feels like it is liable to collapse.  The views from the terrace are excellent but unfortunately the swimming pool has just been given a shot of chemicals and out of use.  Steve really hates the ride down and this leaves him feeling quite queasy in the car.  First stop is Lo De Marcos where the Tlaquepaque campground is behind a wonderfully artistic hotel.  Although it is on the beach it is so huge that few sites have a view of the ocean and most are just parking spaces close to other RV’s.  There are many other campgrounds in the town but none as nice as the beach free camping we have been finding.  Further along we visit a house they had considered buying last year and then take a very rough road out to Playa de Naranco.  There was a good road out a few years ago and Sandra’s sister Karen camped with her motorhome on the beach.  Today the road is totally neglected and Sandra does well to get us through in her low slung convertible as a 4wd would be much more suitable.  You can no longer drive to the beach as a “security” booth (Mexican palapa with a camp bed) prevents you driving down but you can walk.  The area has been cordoned off with fencing ready for hotel development and we can see why as it is a stunning beach.   It’s late when we get back so by the time we have had curry at our place we opt out of the sunset drinks and just play games

BUCERIAS 2, TRES BANDERAS

 

THURSDAY 12 MARCH – Another noisy night so we are hoping Robert has found us another spot to stay tonight otherwise we will leave.  We relocate to Jose’s garden; he lives between Karen’s and the Ranch.  In the afternoon we all meet at El Ficas (the ranch) to use the free wi-fi whilst enjoying their swimming pool and bar.  Early evening we go to “Mauricio’s” restaurant between Puerto and Nuevo Vallarta to be joined by Karen & Claude.  The meals are all P169 (£8.50) but the price includes seafood soup to start, tostadas with marlin, your choice of main course (many are combo’s) unlimited tequila, fried banana for dessert followed by Kailua and milk.  Steve gets the lobster, prawn, fish and mussel combo and when he orders a beer it arrives with a back up supply in an ice bucket.  It’s not a touristy place at all but has obviously been discovered by the ex pats living here but retains it’s Mexican character.  As we are leaving we spot piles of the “jicama” vegetable and learn that they are there for you to help yourself. 

BUCERIAS 3, JOSE’S GARDEN

 

FRIDAY 13 MARCH - Back on the road again alone and with no particular place to go – what a great feeling.  We check out the resort area of Rincon de Guyabitos but soon realise it is not for us.  Previously we free camped at Chacala Beach but when we drive out there we see the beach road is fenced off.  In the town we learn that Americans have bought it for development and there is absolutely nowhere to now stay in an RV.  Following the coast road we veer inland then drop back to the ocean at Platanitos.  A steep cobbled street takes us down to the beach with a huge, level paved car park behind it.  We are told it is safe to stay there overnight so spend the afternoon on the beach.  It’s a small one but bigger at low tide and backed by loads of restaurants.  Just before nightfall and small VW camper arrives with Claude & Marie from Quebec so we have a bit of company. 

PLATANITOS – FREE

72 MILES

 

SATURDAY 14 MARCH – We’ve had one of the quietest nights for ages with just a few roosters waking us in the morning.  Had it now been the weekend we would probably stay longer but know it is going to be packed with locals.  Unusually for us we check out the next RV Park, Paraiso Miramar, and when we are quoted P75 (£3.75) pp with electric, wi-fi and use of the swimming pools we are in.  Walking round we see Bill & Bonnie whom we first met on the east coast and who also travelled with Kevin & Ruth for a time.  It’s a very nice RV park attached to the hotel with lush green lawns, 3 plunge pools then a swimming pool in another area so we are well catered for and enjoy making full use of them.

MIRAMAR, PARAISO MIRAMAR RV PARK – P150 (£7.50)

12 MILES

 

SUNDAY 15 MARCH – We’ve had a peaceful night and with the Internet we can use a bit more time here to research onward plans.  Tomorrow is a holiday in Mexico so many families are staying here over the weekend.  Throughout the day the pools are constantly in use with kids having a great time.  Late afternoon we play Euchre with Bill & Bonnie then catch up on watch “Long Way Down”.

MIRAMAR 2, PARAISO MIRAMAR RV PARK

I would appreciate a bit of feedback from anyone who reads this blog. 

Please send directly to glenswatman@yahoo.com

This is really my personal diary and photos put on line for people who know my but if you have any constructive criticism as to what you would like to read about, what type of photos etc I will do my best to improve things. 

Many thanks
Glen

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MONDAY 16 FEBRUARY – Kevin & Ruth cycled round the bays the other day to check out the camping by the lighthouse.  It’s an interesting drive out around the bays with lots of fine views.  When we arrive they are parked out on the street waiting for another rig to leave.  It is a stunning spot for the views but otherwise just a gravel parking lot a long way above the beach charging P100 (£5) for dry camping and P200 (£10) with services.  We drive right down to Playa La Entrega where there are numerous parking lots.  They say we can stay for free overnight and this suits us really well as we are a short level walk to the beach.  This is a wonderfully calm bay with really clear water and great snorkelling just off the shore.  Steve says it is the most colourful coral he has seen in Mexico and the best mix of fish.  I try to snorkel but my sinuses make it too painful.  Kevin & Ruth hike down to join us for an hour in the afternoon whilst we are happy to spend pretty much all day on the beach.  We learn that it is a Mexican holiday and this explains the beach being so busy and all the revelry in the restaurants.  Returning to the motorhome Steve negotiates to trade a beer for a fresh coconut.  After drinking the juice they slice out the inside then smear it with chilli and salt for us to eat and it is surprisingly tasty.  The holidaymakers stagger back the bus in fine fettle but once they have left it is a very peaceful spot.

HUATULCO, PLAYA LA ENTREGA

 

TUESDAY 17 FEBRUARY – We head along the coast to the southern most point of our journey at Puerto Angel.  The main Mex 200 is a good road but still winding and up and down hill so slow going.  Turn off and drop down to the traditional fishing port of Puerto Angel (doesn’t sound so nice in Spanish as it is pronounced Ann Hell).  We are pleased we know that motorhomes comes this way as we negotiate narrow streets and twisty lanes along the coast.  About 3km further on we reach the famous Zipolite Beach, the only nude beach in Mexico.  The “main” road runs along the back but between it and the beach is a sand road with palapas, restaurants and other buildings on either side.  There are 3 trailer parks, Fernando’s is landside and we have had reports of people getting mice in their motorhomes.  Mango’s is expensive at P350 (£17.50) and Palms is OK but down in a dip and very hot.  Having parked in the village we explore and find ourselves in a nice back packer type haven with lots of hippy people.  Learn that we can drive along the beach sand road behind Palms to a small camping area known as La Habana Trailer Park and somehow we manage to squeeze Harry onto it.  Negotiate with Mickey to pay P70 (£3.50) dry camping.  Two Quebec couples are just leaving from the top of the beach but we are too heavy to take their spots so settle below but without the view we would like.  It’s not long before we are stripped off enjoying a stroll around the bay.  The beach no longer seems to have naturists at the west end and the whole length is a mixture of nudes (including Mexicans), topless, people in swimwear and others fully dressed.  Lots of alternative lifestyle people can be seen with dreadlocks, doing yoga or practising juggling.  I wonder if a nude person doing yoga would be a “Yogi Bear”!  At the west end of the beach we see really nice attractive accommodation in classy bungalows built up the rock.  There is also a huge hole in a rock where you can watch the waves coming through.  Nearby is a nude restaurant with four-poster beds on the beach advertising nude breakfast for P30 (£1.50) – this seems like just our kind of place.  Other accommodation along the beach ranges from nice motel style rooms down through beach huts to tent camping catering for all but the most discerning visitor.  A Canadian van pulls up opposite us with a nice young family, Jeff, his girlfriend Nat, children Sarah and Isilie and a puppy they have just bought.  We make many walks along the beach (well over 1km each way) and take dips in the ocean, as it is really hot.  Late afternoon we walk the back streets and are amazed to see a wheelchair basketball match in progress.  The youths all have wheelchairs with three small central wheels along with the two inward sloping outside ones.  Nearby at the derelict community centre we find the two Quebec vans that left Habana.  They have a superb spot directly above the beach and moved due to noise from the reggae bar at the other place – think we may be joining them soon.  A local came and asked for P200 (£10) for the week but they told him it was too much and that they didn’t think he had any right to be asking money for them parking on public land.  We would be perfectly happy paying that to be there.  After the beautiful sunset we sit out sipping our drinks by candlelight.

ZIPOLITE, LA HABANA TRAILER PARK – P70 (£3.50)

39 MILES

 

WEDNESDAY 18 FEBRUARY – We were lucky there was no music last night and slept well.  Exercises and jogging along the beach makes a good start to the day and we very happy to watch whilst having breakfast outside.  Walking along the beach we learn the Quebec vans with naturists Gilbert & Lynn and another guy and Marcel had a good night.  Jeff has a friend arriving soon with 3 children and a big rig and it is going to be crowded at La Habana so we pack up and move to the “Casa Communal”.  Parked sideways to the beach we have a near perfect spot for us and set up camp properly.  We can be discretely nude by the van and are right behind the beach with an unobstructed view.  It’s really tough deciding whether to people watch, read, dip in the ocean or stroll along the shore so we mix it around.  The waves are very strong and there’s a bit of an undercurrent so swimming is not good but playing in the waves until you get fed up being knocked over is fun and the water is really warm.  During our second beach walk we meet fellow naturists Paul & Heather from Montreal.  They are also in a motorhome but with a 38’ rig are staying at “Mangoes” but seem a little envious of our spot.  Mid afternoon Kevin & Ruth arrive but opt not to stay by us partly because there are lots of burrs that get in Whiskey’s paws and also they are not so comfortable with nudity.  They move into the central parking area of the adjoining hotel at P100 (£5) so we can still socialise by visiting them – when we are dressed!  After sunset 3 Mexicans arrive asking for camping money.  They approach the Quebec vans and a heated argument begins.  In the end we see them packing up to leave.  When the men come to us they are very friendly, ask for P100 (£5) but we say that is expensive just for parking compared to other places offering more for the same price.  They say then ask for P50 (£2.50) and we get an official receipt.  Gilbert & Lynn think they are “Tres Bandidos” sent by Mickey from La Habana as his brother has the hotel next door where K&R are staying.  He is probably not happy to have lost 3 customers to this spot and sent them over to demand P200 (£10) night.  They really don’t want to pay anything and this is why they leave to park up the back street.  We want to be here for a good few days and don’t mind paying the small price they ask for the comfort of knowing we won’t be asked to move on.  K&R join us for a card evening.  Typing up my diary on the computer I chuckle to find the spell check wants me to change Zipolite to impolite – is that what the computer thinks of naturists!

ZIPOLITE 2, COMMUNITY CENTRE LAND, P50 (£2.50)

1 MILE

 

THURSDAY 19 FEBRUARY – There was a lot of noise with waves crashing during the night.  A strange thing happens here with waves rolling onto the shore, where there is a steep bank, then turning round and heading back out to sea to crash into the incoming ones.  Take our morning walk around the bay before settling into our routine.  The Canadians move back and park in the narrow sand street between the “casa communal” and the hotel.  Although they are speaking in French there is obviously quite a heated discussion going on culminating in the one couple leaving and Gilbert & Lynn moving in properly and setting up their camp. No one has called to collect any money before we set off with Kevin & Ruth for a sunset walk along the beach.  Sunsets here are pretty good with the huge pink ball descending behind the rocks.   Many of the restaurants and bars have glass jars filled with fuel and lit up like candles and we find one offering 2 cocktails for the price of 1, P40 (£2) during happy hour.  Service is really slow but the waitress does bring taco chips and salsa to nibble whilst we are waiting.  We have all ordered a different drink and when she arrives we get two of each.  There’s quite a lot of alcohol in them so I have a hard time continuing our walk to the far end, where the rock hotel is really attractively lit, and back again.  Round off with euchre in K&R’s.

ZIPOLITE 3, CASA COMMUNAL

 

FRIDAY 20 FEBRUARY – We must be getting used to the waves as we sleep in late.  Steve does what should be our last service on Harry.  In the evening we are joined by a French group in a California motorhome and they are kite surfers.  Take an evening stroll around the back streets of the village before an evening of Canasta with K&R.

ZIPOLITE 4, CASA COMMUNAL

 

SATURDY 21 FEBRUARY – Mid afternoon we walk round the block to do Internet, P15 (75p) hour, to finalise arrangements for picking up Sandra on Thursday.  It seems an even hotter day and stays hot well into the evening so we sit out late with our candles.

ZIPOLITE 5, CASA COMMUNAL

 

SUNDAY 22 FEBRUARY – Ending our late afternoon walk we see a sea rescue.  A couple have been out swimming but the guy has ended up quite a long way out and can’t seem to get back in.  The lifeguard swims out to him, fits a lifesaving belt around him then tows him along parallel with the shore before heading inwards.  He’s OK but must have got stuck in a rip.  Apparently many people drown here and one year 26 people died.  Watch a movie at K&R’s in the evening.  We are very reluctant to leave but want to break up the journey to the airport.  Without a deadline we would probably have stayed here for a few weeks as it is probably the best spot we have had in Mexico.  Cheap too as the rent man has only been to see us twice so our 5 days here have only cost P150 (£7.50), bargain.

ZIPOLITE 6, CASA COMMUNAL

 

MONDAY 23 FEBRUARY – Kevin & Ruth are also moving on today but we like to set off as soon as we are ready and this is often before them so we go alone.  The coastal road is slow going but we do pass a couple of nice beaches including one that is famous for the turtle sanctuary, a far cry from it’s fame of years gone by when they used to slaughter turtles here.  Back on the main Mex 200 it is a fast and easy road and a couple of hours after setting off we are at Puerto Escondido.  This area is world famous to surfers who enjoy riding the Mexican Pipeline.  Just before the river we turn down to Zicatela Beach then left along the sandy beach road.  At the far side of the "Hostal" we find a big parking area directly behind the beach and although there is no one else there a local tells us motorhomes often use it.  Just after 10am we are set up with our beach chairs enjoying the view.  Again this is the kind of spot that we could stay for quite some time.  Late afternoon I take a walk to the village and notice lots of nice hotels with interesting architecture.  At the western end of the beach there are lots of bars and restaurants and tourist orientated shops.  An attractive lookout gives you a view along the beach and also into the next bay.  On the beach they are renting out horses and I also see 4 parachutists drop in.  The surf is not that good so although lots of people are out there they are just paddling around.  When I tell Steve how nice it is he goes off to look as well and chats to Clermont and Barb in “Freedom 2”, we keep bumping into them en route.  We enjoy sitting out for sunset and chat to Don & his wife who bought a house here 20-years ago as a winter holiday home to get away from the cold in the Yucatan.  It seems a nice peaceful spot until 11.30pm when a car on the nearby dirt road decides to put a full wheel lock on and drive around in circles until he stalls it.  The noise is incredible but worse still is the amount of dust that he disturbs as we are down wind.  Luckily he only does it once before heading off.

PUERTO ESCONDIDO, PLAYA ZICATELA, NEXT TO THE HOSTAL

45 MILES

 

TUESDAY 24 FEBRUARY – Away by 8am we suddenly realise just how big Puerto Escondido is.  The old town is above the main highway with the tourist part below and both sections stretch a long way.  The road is pleasant enough at the start with enough points of interest to keep us happy.  We have been warned that there are over 200 topes (sleeping policemen) between here and Acapulco and they are a bit of a pain.  There are also lots of checkpoints, the first by Police who wave us through when we pretend not to speak any Spanish.  In Rio Grande there seem to be more Moto Taxi’s than cars.  We are waved through a military checkpoint then have to show our passports at an immigration check.   Passing through Huaxpaltepec we hear lots of music and see a gathering in the square.  We park up to investigate, hear a sort of country style music and see lots of men doing a strange dance.  They are wearing scarves over their faces covered with miniature masks.  It seems there is a story being told as one man pretends to shoot another and we see a whip come into play.  It’s a really hot day and we’ve a long way to go so press on.  At the next military checkpoint they indicate we must pull over.  There’s another motorhome already being searched.  It is the friends of Clermont & Barb and they have been there for ages as the soldiers are going through absolutely everything.  The lady speaks good Spanish and asked the guy what they were checking for and was told drugs and weapons.  He told her that tourists now often carry them through. We are parked in a narrow spot and other vehicles are having trouble getting past us.   There are only 2 soldiers, one to stop you or say you can go ahead and one doing the search.  They don’t stop a single Mexican vehicle whilst we are waiting so Steve speaks to the soldier in English, babbles on about targeting tourists and it is not fair and is a little surprised when they tell us to be on our way!  At the 6^th checkpoint of the day, crossing into GUERRERO state, we are waved through after pretending not to be able to understand their request for permission to search our vehicle.  At about 1.30pm we reach km124 and turn off to drive 7km to Playa Ventura.  This area has a beautiful long beach but little development, a handful of shops, bars, restaurants and rooms to let.  A boy leaps out and tries to guide us to his camping spot but he wants P100 (£5) for a poor spot with difficult access.  There are so many places here with parking options that we check out a few more.  At the eastern end we secure nice parking by a restaurant for P20 (£1) pp including use of showers and toilets.  Set out to explore more on foot and find the road extends further to the west.  Many areas seem to have been fenced off as plots of land for sale in between others that have already been developed.  Almost everyone has a sign up offering “camping” and one has a lovely swimming pool.  There are no campers there but the lady next door tells us we could stay so we negotiate a price of P30 (£1.50) pp and will move tomorrow.  Walking home we spot “Freedom 2” parked at the restaurant next to us.  They are just having a drink and thinking about dinner and parking there but decide to move to the site with the pool once we tell them about it.  If we hadn’t already paid we would have joined them.

PLAYA VENTURA – PALAPA PANCHO VILLA, P40 (£2)

171 MILES 

 

WEDNESDAY 25 FEBRUARY – We relocate to the place where the sign says “Lugar para acampar con alberca” about 1 mile northwest along the beach.  We are the only visitors so park by the toilet/shower block to make use of the water for a clean up.  Since our initial clean up in readiness for our visitor we have camped at the beach and had one side of the van covered in sea spray then had the other side sand blasted by the car doing doughnuts.  Between jobs we enjoy lots of cooling dips in the swimming pool. 

PLAYA VENTURA 2, LUGAR PARA ACAMPER, P60 (£3)

1 MILE

 

THURSDAY 26 FEBRUARY – Off at 7.45am.  Although we still only make 50 km an hour it is an easy drive to Acapulco and we turn off to Barra Viejo to follow the coast road in to the airport.  This looks to be the next area for development as it is only 30km for the city and has a nice beach.  Arriving at the airport we are amazed at how small it is, more like a little regional one rather than an International.  We are too big for the car park so Steve parks in the street no parking zone and OK’s it with security.  Sandra’s flight from Houston arrives on time and I am there to meet her and in minutes she is settled in Harry and we are on our way.  We’ve been advised to take a wide by pass around Acapulco and the first part is a toll road, P73 (£3.65).  We actually think we have gone wrong as we head off towards Mexico City but eventually find the turn off and finally make it down to the coast north of the city at Pie De La Cuesta.  It has taken ages so we think we would have been better going straight through the city.  Heading for the campground we see a great parking place directly behind the beach (warning see Saturdays entry).  Johnny Walker lives there and says he is the security and we negotiate to camp in amongst the palms for P100 (£5) night.  After a snack lunch Steve & Sandra brave the ocean but it is too challenging and Steve ends up giving Sandra a depiction of how easily you get sucked under and lose your footing.  A French motorhome arrives with Dutch couple Peter and Miriam who live in France.  They shipped their vehicle over to Nova Scotia and are on their way to Panama.  The rest of the afternoon is catching up on news from Sandra.  Take a late stroll up the road.  We see an open-air church on the beach with nice views of the ocean through the picture windows behind the altar.  There is an attractive lagoon opposite where you can do boat trips but we now have a time deadline to get Sandra to Puerto Vallarta for her return flight on 10^th March. The boatman does warn us not to go onto the beach at night here, as it is dangerous.   Acapulco Trailer Park is not bad, secure behind a low wall and fencing it is directly behind the beach, has a small swimming pool and free wi-fi.  Negotiate P150 (£7.50) for tomorrow, as we will be out all day.  Return for our evening Chinese meal sitting out looking at the ocean.  Sandra is whacked so we all retire to bed around 8.30pm.

ACAPULCO, PIE DE LA CUESTA BEACH PARKING, P100 (£5)

121 MILES

 

FRIDAY 27 FEBRUARY – After breakfast we move onto the trailer park, which is only about a quarter full.  The local buses run directly past the entrance and P4.50 (23p) gets us a ride for the 15km back to the city.  It takes about 1-hour due to road works and lots of traffic so maybe we did do the right thing going wide yesterday.  The roads are full of VW Beetle taxis painted white with blue hub areas.  It feels like we have walked onto the set of “Herbie”.  Begin exploring at the Zocolo with an unusual cathedral.  Walking down to the waterfront we have to head a long way round before we get a view of the enormous Acapulco Bay with the main beach backed by high-rise hotels.  We take a slow walk up the hill to La Quebrada and stop in a local restaurant for a snack lunch.  Whilst there the beer is being delivered and we are amazed to see Herculean men carrying 4 cases each (96 bottles) on their backs.  If you pay P35 (£1.75) you can get closer to the cliff divers and the price includes a soft drink.  There are no tour buses and few people around so we have a great view.  In total there are 8 divers who begin with fancy dives from a low level building up to the main event.  4 divers climb up the seemingly sheer cliff face, pray at a couple of shrines before checking the incoming water level then diving into the narrow channel.  There’s little else to interest us so we walk down to the bay and catch the bus back.  There are hundreds of buses around so we are amazed to get the same one going back.  It’s easy to tell this as they are all personalised and we are on “Figaro”.  Many of them have themes and fantastic adornment and paint jobs.  Back at camp we all head for a dip in the pool where Steve & Sandra eventually fall asleep. 

ACAPULCO TRAILER PARK, P150 (£7.50)

1 MILE

 

SATURDAY 28 FEBRUARY – We are surprised to see Peter & Miriam on the campground early morning.  Apparently they had a terrible night camped at “Johnny Walkers”.  After we left they pulled their motorhome forward almost onto the beach and stayed there.  In the night they had someone banging on the motorhome, seemingly spaced out on drugs or something.  Then he began throwing rocks at them.  Johnny Walker came out of his house and saw the man had a gun, shouted to Peter not to open their door.  All Johnny could do was open the gate to let Peter back up then drive out (one of the reasons we try to park faced ready to leave).  By that time a rock had hit them between the side windows, but the metal strip in the middle rather than breaking the window and another had smashed through the window in the door and ripped through the blind.  They were terrified so abandoned the stuff outside (we pack everything away each night), drove off and went to the Police.  Apparently the regular Police have no authority on the beach, as this is the domain of the “Federales”.  However they took a report and suggested they parked by the fire station for safety for the rest of the night.  Not sure whether the problem was that they were alone, it was a weekend, they had moved forward onto the beach or they were just plain unlucky but so glad that we had opted to move.  We are pretty late getting away and this gets worse as the road north along the coast turns into a dead end and we have to backtrack all the way past the Trailer Park wasting over 1/1 hour.  The village Saturday markets are in full flow so I hop out to pick up some fruit.  Following the free road sign to go around Tecpan De Galeana we suddenly notice the last sign has “cuota” (toll) added at the bottom.  With little time to make a decision we take it but the lack of traffic soon makes us realise the P43 (£2.20) toll for about 3km is the wrong call.  At Km150 we turn off to Piedra de Tlacoyunque and just over a mile down the rough paved road we reach a parking area directly behind a beautiful beach.  It’s lunchtime and by the time we have eaten and checked around we decide to stay for the night.  One of the men working on fixing up the restaurant says it is very safe and quiet.  To the north there are some unusual rocks like volcanic stuff bubbling up from the ocean and a huge one with two arches.  A man is busy fishing with a net but only catches small sardines.  To the south there is a fenced off area with shade cloth.  Within it are lots of pieces of wooden orange boxes pushed into the ground with dates and numbers.  This is a turtle sanctuary beach and we gather the eggs are moved here, re buried, labelled then near to hatching time a net cage is put over the area to catch the hatchlings.  Presumably then someone takes them down to release them into the ocean.  Again the sea is too rough to swim and Sandra is tired from our early stroll so Steve and I venture south but it is hard going.  In the evening around 9pm a car pulls up nearby with 2 girls and 2 lads.  They are playing loud music but more annoyingly smash their beer bottles as they empty them.  After last night we feel a little intimidated so stay up until they leave at 11pm but they actually caused us no trouble.  Throughout the night we hear the quad bike going up and down the beach, presumably moving turtle eggs into the hatchery.    

KM 150 PIEDRA DE TLACOYUNQUE - FREE

103 MILES