200804

TUESDAY 1 APRIL 2008 – Heading out of Houston we fill up on gas for the first time back in the States and the cheapest we can find is $3.14 (£1.57) US gallon.  It’s a drizzly but hot and humid day as we head up the interstate along with lots of 16 wheelers (articulated trucks).  Once we turn off towards Louisiana the road gets a little quieter, the drizzle stops and it turns into a pleasant day.  Turn off at the western end of Ba Steinhagen Lake to reach Campers Cove.  According to Don Wrights Free Campgrounds you can camp here for free.  There’s an attractive area beside the lake with a few picnic shelters but the land surrounding them is very boggy so we park right beside the road.  Our afternoon walk takes us through the gate blocking the road and along to the campsite proper, now being upgraded and attracting a fee so we are happy it’s not yet open.  There’s a huge problem with a non-native weed in the lake to the extent that anyone removing a boat must clean the propellers as it is easily transferred, in spite of that the lake is still not inviting enough for a swim.

BA STEINHAGEN LAKE, CAMPERS COVE

WEDNESDAY 2 APRIL – It’s not long before we cross into LOUISIANA, our first visit to this State.  The road is generally flat and straight and traversing the forest it is very boggy on either side.  Cross many “bayous” en route to Alexandria.  Again the road signs seem poor, in fact without a map showing you a road number and direction it would be nigh on impossible to navigate in America as that is often all they show you.  Detour in Pineville to Wal-Mart for a lunch stop and shop to take advantage of the fact that the state tax here is lower than the neighbouring states.  Leaving the store we manage to get lost but decide to re track along a new route.  Where the 84 rejoins the 28 that we should have been on we spot at Corp of Engineering recreation area.  It’s at the confluence of two rivers and other than mentioning a charge for using the boat ramps there is nothing to indicate a fee for us nor prohibiting overnight camping.  With a truck parking area just up the road we are happy to give it a shot.  Other than a bit of road noise it’s a great spot and once again we have our water view.

JUNC 84 AND 28 BETWEEN WHITEHALL AND WALTERS.

LITTLE RIVER CLOSURE RECREATION AREA

THURSDAY 3 APRIL – Our first interesting sighting are a load of prisoners in black and white striped uniforms cleaning up the roadside watched over by a gun touting sheriff.  The small town of Ferriday is famous as the birthplace of Jerry Lee Lewis and his cousins Jimmy Lee Swaggart and Mickey Gilley.  The Delta Music Museum chronicles their rise to fame and others who have a connection with the Delta music region including some we have heard of - Fats Domino, Percy Sledge and Conway Twitty.  Learn that “You are my sunshine” was written and performed by the singing senator, Jimmie Davis (who lived in 3 centuries 1899-2000) and is about his horse.  The nearby bridge takes us over the Mississippi river into the state of MISSISSIPPI at Natchez.  On our left is the huge visitor centre with a car park where you can stay overnight in a motorhome.  When we inquire about driving the Natchez Trace we are also told of free camping places en route so yes we like Mississippi. We spend the afternoon exploring the town and admiring numerous impressive antebellum and Greek revival style mansions.  Stanton Hall 1857 is claimed to be the most magnificent and palatial antebellum residence in America.  Returning via the river we are immediately met with signs of just how high it is.  The Island of Capri casino boat is in the process of being moved upstream as the river has already spilled over onto the road where it is moored.  It’s a huge operation, as it won’t move under its own steam and has to be dragged carefully with lots of pulleys as many things are attached to shore lines.  After an afternoon snooze Steve goes back down to check on progress and explore the casino.  He returns and tells me the casino is not great and that they are talking of the ship having to be moved again as the rivers predicted peak has not been reached.  To move the ship any further they will have to saw off railings along the embankment.  This is the highest they have ever known the river to be and the snowmelt from the north has still not kicked in. 

NATCHEZ, VISITOR CENTRE CAR PARK

FRIDAY 4 APRIL – On the outskirts of Natchez we check out Grand Village of the Natchez Indians.  The visitor’s centre is very basic and the site has a small traditional granary and a couple of mounds that used to have ceremonial buildings upon them so pretty boring.  Pick up the Natchez Trace Parkway that runs all the way to Nashville.  It roughly follows the old trading routes and is not used by trucks or through traffic.  The narrow road is bordered by high trees and with spring flowers on the verges is most attractive.  There’s almost no traffic so driving is a real pleasure.  Any points of interest are marked along the way and you can seem many sections of the old trace.  Emerald Mound may be the second biggest in the States but with nothing but a flat grassy bank to see it fails to impress us.  Detour into Port Gibson, spared by Gen. Ulysses S Grant when he said it was “too beautiful to burn”.  Church Street is full of attractive mansions and churches.  Back on the trace we stop to look at the sunken trace, a really pretty spot where numerous tracks join but rain stops us exploring further.  In fact the heavens open up and as we head onwards we can see that a huge storm must have passed through as debris covers the road.  We pull onto Rocky Springs camping area and are amazed to find that not only is it full but people are doubling and tripling up on sites.  The campground host finds us a spot and explains that these are unusual conditions; the road 10 miles ahead is closed as trees were blown down in the storm.  In fact last night a tornado touched down just north of here and there is warning of another storm and possible tornado tonight.  Apparently the drill is that we have a bag packed with torch, vital medicines and important papers.  Should we hear a noise like an express train bearing down on us we grab the bag, run for the nearest toilet block and lie down on the floor and try to cover our heads.  As it happens we just get lots of heavy blustering rainstorms passing through.  One of the biggest downsides of this camping area is that most people run generators and they are permitted from 6am until 10pm. 

NATCHEZ TRACE, ROCKY SPRINGS CAMPGROUND

SATURDAY 5 APRIL – ¼ to 7 the first generator kicks off but it’s no big deal as we have had little sleep anyway due to the heavy rain.  By the time we get up the campsite is buzzing with motors running.  Steve is really ready for a day off driving so although our idea of a couple of days quiet bush camping and doing some hikes is off we will still stay.   It remains a dry but dull day so in the afternoon we walk up the nearby road to the site of the Rocky Springs Township.  We walk up toward the church and Steve says it looks like it’s a “Pasta and Pizza hut”.  I’m mystified until I see the church sign saying “Pastor: E Piazza”.  The cemetery behind could be quite spooky at night as all the trees have stuff dangling from them.  Most of the tombs are from the era when yellow fever killed off many of the villagers.  Return along the old trace track and find one of the bridges has collapsed but Steve manages to scramble down the bank to the remains and help me across.

ROCKY SPRINGS CAMPGROUND 2

SUNDAY 6 APRIL – This morning the generators begin at 6.30am.  We find it hard to understand why people would attempt to free camp in such a beautiful peaceful setting only to disturb the peace.  Why not have solar panels and in any case what do they need to use that necessitates running their generators for such prolonged periods?  Luckily when Steve walks the campsite loop he finds us a better spot on a site only big enough for one van and with a greater distance to our neighbours.  It’s higher up, much more open and by late morning hot enough for us to sit out sunbathing.  There’s little noise and it’s like another world to our former gloomy noisy spot.   We hear on the news that Jackson is still under a state of emergency after the storms and schools and many other businesses will be closed tomorrow.  Good reason for us to hang on here for another day.  A large Monaco motorhome pulls up next to us.  Doug & Tricia are from Alberta and regularly buy the large luxurious motorhomes in America then take them back and sell them in Canada often getting more than their money back.  They help out by giving us tips should we decide to sell ours up there.  Would love to chat longer as we have lots in common but they have just had a long day’s drive and need to plan for another tomorrow.

ROCKY SPRINGS CAMPGROUND 3

MONDAY 7 APRIL – Anther glorious day once it gets going, admittedly it was such a cold start that I had to let the heating run through its cycle once.  Spend the morning catching up on all those “when we are parked up” jobs and make good progress.  Discover a hundred and one uses for some 3M Scotch 130C linerless rubber splicing tape given to us by one of our hosts.  It’s a black stretch sticky tape that is great for padding things to stop them rattling and also down the sides of the windows where the blinds clank.  Once it cools down in the evening we walk the loop and count 36 RV’s, 33 of which are from Quebec. 

ROCKY SPRINGS CAMPGROUND 4

TUESDAY 8 APRIL – During our short drive to Vicksburg we see lots of tree debris around and many trunks that have obviously been cut to clear the road.  Our first tourist attraction is the Vicksburg National Military Park, $8 admission covered by our pass.  After a brief overview film at the visitor centre we set out to tour the battlefield area where many Union and Confederate skirmishes took place during the civil war.  It’s an amazing 16 miles drive with a monument every few yards, in fact more of them in this park than any other in the States.  Each State has it’s own enormous memorial, each troop has one plus all the famous military people have their own often with a bust on top.  The battlefield areas are also marked with signs indicated the position of the troops.  We’re amazed to drop down a hill and see a huge white cover over the USS Cairo.  This iron-clad ship was sunk in the river and after 100 years it was salvaged and eventually brought here.  The museum holds many of the things found on board and then you can walk onto the remains of the ship to explore, terrific.  Opposite is the main military cemetery but it looks boring and can only be explored on foot.  Complete the circuit passing many more magnificent statues.  Outside the park we pick up the blue Vicksburg tourist trail taking us past some interesting buildings including the magnificent courthouse.  Down by the river Steve begins checking out the casinos and at the far end of town The Ameristar has sports TV’s.  He’s delighted to watch his Liverpool match and get the free drinks whilst I sit in the car park using the Internet.  Retreat to the nearby Wal*Mart for the night. 

VICKSBURG WAL*MART

WEDNESDAY 9 APRIL – Drive back into the centre of Vicksburg to explore the old town.  Biedenharn Coca-Cola museum, $3, tells the history of how the drink was first bottled here in 1894.  One of the original soda fountains is on display and they also have commemorative bottles from Charles and Diana’s wedding and a Harry Potter special.  A few doors along the Corner Drug Store is displaying an amazing array of civil war artefacts as well as old-fashioned medicines.  Down at the waterfront there is a row of interesting murals, mainly historical on the levee wall.  There’s a gap in the wall and walking through takes you straight to the river as it has already risen above the road.  In fact they are beginning to fill in the gaps in anticipation of higher floodwater.  The Childrens Park opposite also holds some interesting artwork.  China Buffet provides us with another excellent buffet.  We can’t help but laugh when we see a man walking round the buffet having a telephone conversation with someone asking what they want from the buffet.  Looking around the restaurant we spot a rather large lady sitting at the table phoning her order in to him!  It’s a short drive to Jackson, the state capital, where we find good parking behind the art museum.  Walking around we see many impressive buildings and explore inside the Capitol.  Stumble upon a huge glass cabinet holding 1c coins.  It’s a “Memorial to the Missing” holding over 50 million pennies, each one representing an aborted baby.  Once again the local Wal*Mart near the lake provides a handy overnight stop.

JACKSON, FLOWOOD WAL*MART

THURSDAY 10 APRIL – Spend a long time deliberating on our journey plan as another huge storm and tornadoes are heading this way from Dallas.  Knowing how often storms change course and the weather forecast is wrong we finally decide to carry on with our planned journey along the Natchez Trace.  Gas prices are climbing rapidly, www.gasbuddy.com showed the cheapest in Jackson at $3.05 yesterday and this morning it is up to $3.19.  We travel along the spillway road around the end of the huge Ross Barnett Reservoir and then have difficulties getting back onto the Trace.  Our map shows the roads meeting it but it’s actually on a bridge above us with no access.  After many failed attempts we retrace our steps back to the main freeway to join.  Our first stop is at Cypress Swamp a fantastic example of a submerged forest with a 20-minute walk around.  Steve stops for a wee and glances down to see something moving – he’s peeing on a snake and one that is about a metre long black with yellow stripes running down it’s body.  It’s definitely p…..d off and makes a hasty retreat as does Steve.  Reach the Jeff Busby campground where the sites are rather strange.  Most are sloping and others seem like a narrow side road with space for 3 or 4 motorhomes but not room to pass.  We spot a wide section of road with space for one motorhome but a cyclist is already camped below.  Rick is very happy for us to park there once he knows we don’t run a generator!  He comes in for a hot drink and tells us he is a fellow “Couchsufer” and has been down in New Orleans doing volunteer work.  He has built a bike from parts of others for $25 and is now cycling home to Wisconsin.  There are still storm warnings for this area but the worst should by pass us. We’ve bought some roof drainage spouts and Steve put these on in the hope that it will divert the dripping water a bit further away from us and not disturb our sleep so much!  It’s a very hot and humid day and much nice out in the fresh air so we make the hike up the road to Little Mountain, the highest point in the state at a mere 603 feet.  Return along the walking trail then I carry on to the gas station where I am surprised to find Bill on his laptop making use of the free wi-fi.  All evening we watch TV and pick up the storm warnings and fee happy once our county is no longer shown.  Others are not so luck and some come under storm warning, flood warning and flash flood alert.  We hear a sudden crack and crash and join Rick at the far side of our van with our torches.  A small branch of a nearby tree has just fallen and exploded on the ground.  Although not a huge branch it would certainly have done some damage had it landed on us but where else can we go as the whole area is a forest?  Settle down for the night and it’s really peaceful until the early hours when the rain starts.

NATCHEZ TRAIL, JEFF BUSBY CAMPGROUND

FRIDAY 11 APRIL – The storm seems to have passed and it’s a pleasant morning.  Rick joins us for breakfast but is heading off today hoping to put in his daily 50 miles.  A ranger drives through the campground announcing “tornado watch” and advises us to be on alert until 4pm and to go to the gas station for shelter – now a gas station with lots of underground fuel doesn’t sound the safest place to us?  A couple of lady cyclists roll up.  It’s Betsy & Cathy whom we met at Cypress Swamp yesterday.  They want to camp in the spot that Rick has vacated but we invite them in for a hot drink first.  Lucky we did as the heavens open up.  They have had a month in New Orleans doing voluntary work and are now cycling back to New Hampshire.  They play cards so a game of “Oh Hell” follows and by the time we finish after 2pm it has brightened up.  Make the most of the fine spell to walk around and chat to fellow campers.  I learn that our Quebec neighbour speaks good English and he’s just left a beach in Mexico near Escondido with cheap camping and nudity on the beach.  Meanwhile Steve chats to Don form Nova Scotia who is a writer.  Further round we are stopped and invited to join Heinz and Ollie, ex Germans who now live in Ontario.  Heinz is very funny and entertains us with many jokes.  Their neighbour Brenda is also there.  She lives in Ontario but emigrated from England, is now a priest and her car number plates are “Rev Who”.  Heinz is a very funny man and entertains us with many jokes. In the evening we invited Cathy and Betsy in and teach them Bush Rummy. 

NATCHEZ TRAIL, JEFF BUSBY CAMPGROUND 2

SATURDAY 12 APRIL – The girls have left by the time we get up.  It’s somewhat cooler but at least the threat of storms seems to have passed.  I make use of the Internet in the morning.  It gets cooler as the day progresses and is positively chilly by evening.

NATCHEZ TRAIL, JEFF BUSBY CAMPGROUND3

SUNDAY 13 APRIL – For the first time in months we put the central heating on in the morning and the porridge comes out for breakfast.  En route we stop to chat to Betsy & Cathy who are finding it hard going with the cold crosswinds.  They tell us they played Bush Rummy last night so maybe the Aussie game is going to be taking off here as well!  Continue to Tupelo where we stop at the visitor centre to watch the film about the Natchez Trace.  We are leaving the Trace here, having only come this far to visit Tupelo, Elvis’s birthplace.  Driving around town we can see the hardware store where he bought his first guitar.  He went there with his Mum Gladys to buy a bicycle but saw a gun and wanted that instead but his Mum compromised on a guitar.  Pass the fairground area where he played his first main concert and Johnnie’s drive in where he used to buy cheeseburgers.  However the centrepiece is his birthplace and museum, $7 (£3.50).  His Dad Vernon borrowed $180 to build the two-room frame house in East Tupelo and this is where Elvis and his stillborn brother were born.  3 years later, whilst his Dad was in prison, the loan could not be repaid and they had to move out.  When Elvis returned in 1957 to do a concert at the fairgrounds he donated the proceeds to the town of Tupelo to start a park in the East Tupelo.  They bought 15 acres, which included the house where he was born.  After he died the site was developed further and you can now stroll through the small museum of memorabilia donated by his lifelong friend Janelle McComb.   You can wander through the 2-room house and look at memorial features in the garden including a Memorial Chapel.  Not as impressive as Graceland but still worth the visit as Steve is a big Elvis fan.  Wal Mart at the nearby town of Amory becomes our overnight stop.

AMORY, WAL*MART

MONDAY 14 APRIL – We soon cross into ALABAMA and it’s an easy journey to Tuscaloosa.  The visitor centre is housed in the impressive “Jemison Van De Graff Mansion”, an Italianate house from 1859 with octagonal cupola.  It was the first house in Tuscaloosa to have a fully plumbed bathroom and even had a gas plant for illumination.  We wander a few of the rooms with antique furniture before heading off on the walking trail.  It’s a 2-mile trail taking us past noteworthy buildings but with the exception of a couple of nice mansions there is nothing outstanding.  It’s mid afternoon so we settle onto the local Wal*Mart for the night.  There’s a big shopping centre opposite and I decide to walk over and take a look.  Now it’s only across the other side of a dual carriageway but there are no facilities for pedestrians and I get many strange looks.  Reckon an American would have driven over!  The shopping centre is not popular and there is hardly anybody in it but on the plus size the stores are preparing to close down and there are plenty of bargains to be had.

TUSCALOOSA, WAL*MART

TUESDAY 15 APRIL – It’s a very pleasant drive across the state and the rest area kindly provides a free dump station.  At Prattville we stop at the huge Bass Leisure store in hope of buying a camping book.  The store is almost like a theme park with fishing and hunting souvenirs adorning the walls and ceiling.  We’ve got a host lined up and he lives in Wetumpka up a narrow street that winds its way up and over many hills on the edge of the mountains.  At the dead end of the road we are very lucky to get a level parking spot on the edge of the turning circle.  Ed arrives back around 10pm and comes in to chat to us.  He’s in his 40’s but back at school doing an English degree and his travels are limited because he has a 5-year-old son who lives with his ex but he is still keen to get inspiration from us.

WETUMPKA

SATURDAY 15 MARCH – Linda wants to build a pagoda on the roof so we pick up her handyman Clemente before visiting the ironmongers.  It’s interesting to learn the different building techniques used in other countries.  We are impressed that they are going to deliver the goods within a couple of hours so drop Clemente back at the house.  Linda wants to take us to an area of Guadalajara known as Tlaquepaque. It’s a really interesting place with old mansions converted into showrooms for local artwork.  Much of it is huge and over the top but would be perfect for a hotel or bank.  After stopping for a beer we return to the square in Ajijic for a more reasonably priced lunch.  Time for a siesta before heading out to visit Linda’s friend Barbara who has a house up in the hills.  Her sister in law Leah is staying and we find lots to talk about as she is in the travel industry.  Sit out on the terrace to watch the sunset over the lake.

AJIJIC 3

SUNDAY 16 MARCH – Barbara and Leah call round for Steve and I so we can join them for an early morning walk up the mountain.  The track follows the Stations of the Cross up to a shrine and the book recommends you take water for the new plants up there.  Given our new information we now know that it is better to upturn the bottle and leave it to drain slowly rather than water the base of the plant, maybe a few others will see what we do and follow suit.  The shrine has a superb mural of Jesus and is high on the hill giving us fine views over the lake and down to Ajijic where we can pick out the main square.  Return for a lazy day basking in and around the pool rounded off with an evening watching TV, the English “Calendar Girls” movie and munching curry-flavoured popcorn.  Give Linda a back massage before we retire, of course Steve also wants the same. 

AJIJIC 4

MONDAY 17 MARCH – A public holiday in Mexico so better for us to stay off the roads.  Clemente shows up with a few lads to help him move the girders up on to the roof.  I join Linda for a brief trip out before returning to cook us a meal and repeat yesterday evening’s relaxation process. 

AJIJIC 5

TUESDAY 18 MARCH – Reluctantly leave Linda to head towards America.  Her directions get us around Guadalajara; the second largest city in Mexico, on free roads so we are surprised to find the onward road is toll.  It’s a good fast motorway but we have to pay Pesos 44 (£2.20), Pesos 111 (£5.50), Pesos 139 (£7) and Pesos 45 (£2.25), all that for about 160km so pretty pricey.  Pass into AGUASCALIENTES STATE and our first security check heading north and it just doesn’t happen as they wave us through!  It’s a very windy day and there is so much dust around it is hard to see.  The Mexican Camping guide directs us straight towards the centre of town where we find the Best Western Hotel Medrano.  Around the back is a grassy square and motorhome are permitted to park around the perimeter and hook up to electric, water and dump.  The location is perfect as it’s only a short walk to the city centre.  It’s early afternoon so unfortunately all the churches and temples are closed but we do pop in to the Museum Jose Guadalupe and the Museum of Contemporary Arts, Pesos 10 (50p) each and worth about that to us.   It’s pretty busy in the main square, Plaza de la Patria, with the impressive Palacio Municipal and Palacio de Gobierno on one side.  Within the latter are some excellent murals by Chilean Oswaldo Barra Cunningham.  Other than that it is just a pleasant place to stroll around for a few hours. 

AGUASCALIENTES, HOTEL MEDRANO CAMPING

Pesos 150 (£7.50)

WEDNESDAY 19 MARCH – Leave around 9.30am and drive straight through and under the centre of Aguascalientes to join the main road to Zacatecas.  Cross in to ZACATECAS STATE again with both military and fruit check points but no stops.  When we reach Cosio and see the sign for the toll road we turn off on the “libre” and it works well as we rejoin the main motorway for the last stretch.  Couchsurfing host Alejandra has given us directions for parking by her house, in the suburb of Spauaz, and they are excellent.  She’s in Mexico City and due back tonight but we make us known to her Mum Leila.  As with all new housing developments there are many unsold blocks and the houses that have been built only finish the façade that will finally be on show so have many walls of exposed rough brick.  They are known as detached houses as they each have all their own walls but each of those walls touches the neighbours on both sides and at the back.  A few blocks away we catch the bus, Pesos 3.50 (17p) to the city centre but manage to alight a bit too soon.  No matter as we just follow the main road uphill to the centre.  The city is built between two mountains so all the streets are steep and off the main drag you see lots of narrow ones with stairs.  It’s heaving with Mexicans here on holiday and street stalls abound.  Local stone is a beautiful pink colour and used to good effect in many buildings especially the main cathedral that has stunning Mexican Baroque architecture.  Nearby San Agustin is interesting as an 18^th century temple that became a casino and has since been restored. However they seem to have made a few mistakes with the jigsaw as there are many pieces left over in a room at the back!  Today there are art displays where students have done their interpretation from a painting of Christ.   Wander up a long staircase to the western hill where we join a long line of people waiting to take the cable car across the valley.  Not surprising as yesterday it was closed because of the wind.  For 25 pesos (£1.25) we get superb views of the city from above and end up on the higher “Cerro de la Bufa” opposite.  There’s an interesting chapel above and superb views of the city and valley.  Getting back to the city is easy as you just take any track down then zig zag your way towards the cathedral.  A very pleasant few hours later and we are back on the bus in time for tea.  Unfortunately Alejandra doesn’t make it back.

ZACATECAS, SPAUAZ

THURSDAY 20 MARCH – Opt for the toll road around Zacatecas, possibly a mistake at Pesos 57 (£2.80) for the short distance involved.  Head off the on free dual carriageway towards Saltillo and it’s an excellent road.  I speak too soon as after 50km it becomes a narrow single lane pot holed affair.  After passing north through the Tropic of Cancer, marked by a dilapidated orange globe, the road improves to being just narrow.  The stretch from Zacatecas to Saltillo is almost 400km and has no proper towns along the way.  Terrain is mainly flat with scrub and cactus and the odd Mexican cowboy herding his goats.  In COAHUILA state the road improves and returns to dual carriageway.  The ring road around Saltillo is slow going as the building of new bridges and underpasses means we have to travel on the narrow lateral roads.  We emerge onto the busy dual carriageway towards Monterrey hoping but not finding an overnight parking place.  Just into NUEVO LEON state we see a truck overturned on the opposite carriageway completely blocking both lanes.  Lucky it wasn’t on our side as there are no alternative routes.  Just beyond the Monterrey toll ring road is another that is free.  Our friends Kevin & Ruth came this way and turned off to visit the caves at Garcia then stayed on the car park overnight.  It’s a 24km detour but we are getting tired so opt to do the same.  When we reach the cave area there are cars everywhere parked in all available spots including dry riverbeds.  Finding a spot for Harry is impossible so we continue as the map shows the road drops back to the ring road.  It may well do but after a couple of incredibly bumpy miles we turn around.  Manage to park badly near the caves and learn that there are no tours in English today and although it closes very soon there is still a long queue for the cable car up and people will no doubt stay late as there are lots of stalls selling food and souvenirs.  Return to the motorhome and stop a passing Police car to ask about a safe place to park overnight.  They don’t recommend here as cars pass through and there will be nobody else.  He suggests we follow him to Villa de Garcia where he will lead us to a safe parking spot in the centre.  In the centre it certainly is, on the narrow one-way road through town and at the edge of the main square.  He says it is absolutely fine but we are not entirely happy especially when the church bells ring out nearby.  Steve takes a walk around town and secures us a spot in the Hotel San Francisco car park so all is well that ends well, except we do have to make one more move as we are parked underneath a nut tree!

VILLA DE GARCIA, HOTEL SAN FRANCISCO CAR PARK

FRIDAY 21 MARCH – On the road at 8am, Good Friday not that you would know as there are still many trucks on the road.  The free by pass around Monterrey is easy going even if it does seem to take forever, 45 minutes.   The toll for motorhomes to Nuevo Laredo is Pesos 254 (£12.50) but we have a map that shows where the tollbooth is and think we can come off just before.  It’s a very good road and we soon reach the required exit but they’ve tricked us, as there is a tollbooth on the exit ramp.  The next one is also the same but we quickly calculate that coming off at this point will still be much cheaper so we pay Pesos 131 (£6.50).  In fact the free road is also very good and we continue through to Nuevo Laredo (TAMAULIPAS STATE) then pick up the by pass towards Columbia Bridge.   Although the gas prices are supposed to be the same throughout Mexico we do notice that our last fill up at the border costs a bit more than normal at Pesos 7.47 (37p) litre.  Columbia Bridge seems to be a new purpose built border point so easy to negotiate and find the Mexican office to hand in our tourist visa.  Looping back we pay Pesos 49 (£2.40) toll for the bridge over the Rio Grande and into TEXAS, USA.  The Laredo inspection station has narrow lanes but we squeeze through and are asked to pull into the inspection garage.  A brief interview relieves us of 2 potatoes then we are free to walk to the immigration offices.  We are very happy to have our passports stamped for 6 months, $6 (£3) pp fee which we did not pay before, as it was included in our air ticket.  Approaching Laredo we are struck by the contrast with Mexico.  Steve has a run in with a couple of lorries hastening to pass us and the freeways, flyovers and shopping malls scream civilisation – think we prefer Mexico at this stage!  We don’t adjust quickly enough to the America style road signs so miss a turning, miss where we intended to camp and decide to carry on.   Other than the improved road quality we could still be in Mexico as the ranches and side roads all have Spanish names.  Over 50 miles out of town there is a checkpoint, American border patrol looking for stowaways but they don’t even check our van.  A town called Alice becomes our stop, as the 24-hour Wal Mart will do us nicely.  I’m slow going around the store, as I have to get used to the huge choice of things now on offer, again in many ways the small Mexican shops were much nicer although overall most things are cheaper in the States. 

ALICE WAL*MART

SATURDAY 22 MARCH – Head out towards Corpus Christi then onward to Padre Island.  By passing the city takes us by the shopping malls with lines of cars waiting to get onto the car parks.  When you consider that Americans get so few days holiday it seems amazing that they would want to spend any of it in a shopping mall especially on a beautiful sunny day.  A bridge and causeway lead to the island.  It’s beautiful, a bit like going along the Florida Keys.  At the visitor centre we learn that the island fans out north and south with free camping in both sections.  Emerge with an arm full of tourist information.  Drive south to the National Seashore, $10 (£5) included in our annual parks pass.  You can free camp here in certain areas and stay for 14 days at a time and a total of 56 days a year.  The visitors’ centre has some interesting displays, information and free showers.  Beyond it the road turns into a compacted sand beach track and the first 5 miles are accessible by normal vehicles, the last 55 miles requiring a 4wd.  There are lots of campers already set up in motorhomes tents and other vehicles so we press on to where they are more spaced out.  It’s difficult to get a level and we almost get stuck so settle for being a bit lob sided.  We have a super spot just a few feet from the high tide mark and sit out to relax and enjoy the warm sun, sheltered from the breeze by the motorhome.  As holiday weekend and a glorious day it is very busy but quietens down by nightfall.

PADRE ISLAND, SOUTH BEACH

SUNDAY 23 MARCH – We’ve both slept well, lulled by the continuous but gentle noise of the waves.  It’s a poor morning, cloudy and so windy that the pelicans have to fly almost on the water.  Lots of transport vehicles go past, heading down the beach to send goods out to the off shore oil rig.  The wind gets worse as the day progresses and the sand is being blown everywhere.  I need to make some calls as we are trying to arrange for Claire & family to fly out to us in Florida.  Late afternoon we drive to the nearby campground to use the phone. At the campground you pay $8 (£4) night for hard standing and use of showers and toilets and it seems very popular.  On the opposite side of the barrier island you are facing Corpus Christi and we think it may be more sheltered so head to Bird Island free camping area.  This area is favoured by the wind surfers and still breezy but it’s a gravel parking area so more comfortable.  We are right on the waterfront and the sea here is much calmer and shallower. 

PADRE ISLAND 2, BIRD ISLAND

MONDAY 24 MARCH – I gathered lots of flight information yesterday but still need Internet to contact Claire.  We can’t get wi-fi anywhere so drive back to Corpus Christi to a library to us their computer.  Having done as much as possible I pass the ball over to Claire.  Head back onto the Barrier Island and north onto Mustang Island.  There are many beach access roads but no 3 and 2 lead us to inaccessible sand roads meaning we have to back all the way out.  Road 1 is now wider as a new golf course is developing the area.  The beach sign says free camping between markers 27 and 34 for 3 days with beach parking permit but not indication where to get one.  It looks like they have recently graded the compacted sand road and having pushed the sand into banks at the side you can no longer pull over to park.  Decide to chance it where we are until tomorrow.  Claire texts us to say flights book, we go back to England on 10^th June, return with Daniel and Natasha on 18^th July then Claire & Daz follow on 3^rd August and take the kids back with them on 16^th August.  Now all we need to do is sort out Disney tickets, motorhome parking and other travel plans!

MUSTANG ISLAND, BEACH ACCESS ROAD 1

TUESDAY 25 MARCH – It doesn’t look all that far to the town of Port Aransas so we set off walking along the beach.  There a many of blue “Portuguese men of war” washed up and a few jellyfish so it’s a good job the water is too cold for a swim.  I spot a few coins shining on the sand and we gather them up and then begin looking in earnest.  It’s much further than we thought to the town and as we are walking slowly beach combing it takes us 2 ½ hours.  Beach parking permits are $12 (£6) or you can camp on the beach in town for $10 (£5) night and this may be better for us with only 1 night left.  There’s supposed to be a 25c (12p) trolley circulating around the town and beaches but it’s obviously not running to schedule so we walk further to the tourist office to find out about the floating casino as well as the trolley.  Return on the bus to pick up the motorhome.  At the Family Centre IGA the $11 (£5.50) cruise tickets are discounted to $9 (£4.50), of course plus tax the bugbear of American prices.  A free 24-hour ferry shuttles you across to the other bank of the river and the casino car park.  Steve checks at the desk and learns that if he has a drink, or two, on board we are OK to stay parked up in the motorhome on their car park overnight. The idea behind the cruise is to get around the Texas non-gambling laws by sailing out to sea.  Board around 6pm for the 6.30pm session and head straight to the buffet that is included in the price.  It’s a mediocre offering but there’s enough to fill us up.  Leaving the port area is rather pleasant but soon after it gets quite bumpy and the ship creaks and groans.  I think we are the only ones on board for the cruise rather than the gambling as people are by the machines and tables long before they are in operation.   A band plays some pleasant music so we will probably spend most of our time in the lounge.  Wrong on that one because as soon as the casino opens the band disappears.  Watch some of the Texas hold-Em poker and throw $5 (£2.50) into the slots but with 5c the minimum rather than the usual 1c it doesn’t last long.  The rest of the evening is pretty boring and we really wish we could get off but of course they have got you.  It’s really cold in the lounge and in the end people are getting blankets.  Once the casino closes the band return but most people are too tired to enjoy it.  Arrive back just before 1am and return to bed.  Shortly after we get a hammering in the door.  The 2 men say we cannot camp on the parking lot and must move immediately.  A bit of an argument follows with Steve explaining that he asked earlier and has now had too much drink to drive.  Things get quite heated so I intercept and the man finally calls his boss and gets permission for us to stay until 6am.  I soothe the waters a bit further and get a stay of execution until 7am when someone will knock us up.  It’s all very frustrating, as we could have done things very differently had we known.

PORT ARANSAS, TEXAS TREASURE CASINO CAR PARK

WEDNESDAY 26 MARCH – I’m awake just before 7am anyway but no one has called.  Soon after there are hooters and other noise to disturb us so we voluntarily leave.    Our journey around the Gulf Coast is pretty boring, the area is very flat and marsh like.  Near Port Lavaca we turn off to go 10 miles out to Magnolia Beach with a rather pleasant free camping spot.  Many other RV’s are parked up and although it’s a gravel beach and the toilets are grim we can see the attraction of the place.  After lunch we walk along to the “ghost” town of Indianola.  Wiped out by numerous storms and yellow fever the residents eventually gave up and abandoned the place.  Today there are many signboards telling of the history and just a few hardy residents.  All along the coast there are many properties and pieces of land for sale but the strong winds and threat of storms no doubt deter most people.  Many other areas are available for free camping, often with a concrete shelter housing a picnic table.  Wildflowers abound and we see over a dozen different varieties amongst the roadside grass. 

MAGNOLIA BEACH, INDIANOLA PARK

THURSDAY 27 MARCH – There’s just a gentle breeze when we get up but by mid morning the Texas wind is up to full force.  With water in the toilet block we take the opportunity to do some cleaning up, after leaving here we probably won’t be at the beach again for many weeks so sand should be less of a problem.   By noon there is a strong wind again, maybe not such a common thing as it is reported on the news.

MAGNOLIA BEACH 2

FRIDAY 28 MARCH – Make an early start for Houston.  It’s the 3^rd largest city in USA but much less intimidating than driving in Los Angeles.  Road signs are good and traffic is light as we make our way to our hosts.  Tim lives in the northwest suburb of Garden Oaks, in the kind of street that we recognise from many movies.  Lots of large houses with big open plan front gardens. Unfortunately the front of each garden has a continuous drainage channel and because Tim hasn’t bridged over his we cannot park on the drive.  However the front area between the ditch and the road makes a good back up.  We chat to Tim about what we might like to do in Houston; he works from early afternoon until evening but is free to play tourist with us over the weekend. 

HOUSTON

SATURDAY 29 MARCH – We’re woken early in the morning by rain but the brief downpour has stopped by the time we get up.  Set out late Morning with Tim as our tour guide.  He drives us around the nearby neighbourhoods explaining how many were developed just after the war but now the old homes are being bought, torn down and replaced with “Mac Mansions”.  In The Heights the majority of these mansions are so well done in the traditional, gothic, style that we would not know the difference but in other sections the new ones are massive modern structures dwarfing any remaining single storey small bungalows.  The art car museum makes a great first stop.  Admission is free and there’s a bonus of a very interesting temporary art exhibition.   Cars must be roadworthy and home made.  One is completely covered in shells and another in small steel panels and designed to look like animals leaping from it.   An impromptu detour takes us in to Glenwood Cemetery where many famous people are buried including statesmen.  The only once we recognise is Howard Hughes whose tomb is very simple.  A highlight of the attractions is supposed to be the Rothko Chapel.   Externally it’s a very boring brick structure that looks like a nuclear bunker.  Inside there are 14 famous paintings by Mark Rothko.  In the main room it looks like the pictures have all been covered over by purple cloth.  A couple of others look like blackboards.  I speak to the docent and find out that these are the famous pictures themselves and that one must spend time quietly studying them to appreciate them.  We just don’t get it and head out but pause to read the visitors book with amazing comments as to how impressed people are – we feel like writing “you cannot be serious”.  Sit outside with Tim who feels the same as us but to give it a fair chance we return to sit and contemplate a little longer.  Well it’s a bit like those 3d pictures that were around years ago but with these there is no image to jump out at you but possible shadows in the depths of the paintings that could be anything.  The adjacent Menil Collection of art is another disappointment for us.  Too many surreal images but a few Picasso’s and Andy Warhols although we got more pleasure from the pictures at the car place.  Tim is with us on this so we head off in search of something more to our liking.  Downtown is compact and deserted at weekends with just a handful of interesting high rises.  Lunch is a delicious sandwich at a Vietnamese restaurant.  Next stop is the beer can house, recently resurrected and opened as a tourist attraction, $2 (£1).  Many years ago the owner was fed up with minting the property and set out to create and maintenance free garden.  He poured concrete slabs and beautified them with marbles.  His next project was to cut and flatten out beer cars into small tiles and cover the exterior house walls eliminating the need to paint it.  Over 500,000 cans later he had covered the house, created walls and gates surrounding it, curtains to hang from the eves to keep it cool and other artistic features.  Return for a rest before our evening’s entertainment.  Goode Company do a fabulous smoked Texas BBQ and the meat is extremely tasty.  It’s a simple cabin with self-service, long tables in and out to share with others and a great atmosphere.  All the meat is cooked in 3 huge wooden furnaces out back (yes we can now speak some American!).  The Big Easy Social and Pleasure Club, cover charge $5 - £2.50 has the cities best blues music.  It’s really busy but we manage to get a set to watch people dancing to the band.  Both the style of music and dancing is new to us.  Couples seem to be doing a sort of stilted slowed down rock n roll whilst the main singer of the band is a white man whose voice is low and gravelling as you would expect from a black person.  It’s after 11pm when we leave for the nearby Irish Bar where Tim’s son Nick works.  Guinness and Irish coffees are the order of the day and again it’s very pleasant to be out in a non-smoking environment.  By the time we get home it’s after 1am but we have had a wonderful and interesting day.

HOUSTON 2

SUNDAY 30 MARCH – We’re all a bit tired after yesterday’s excursion so make a late start.  Tim drives us downtown where we explore Sam Houston Park where many old homes have been relocated.  Steve wants to see some of the seedier neighbourhoods and whilst trying to find them Tim drives us past another quirky house.  It’s a corner plot and the arty owner lives in railway carriages and has used sleepers and other parts to create a fence, gate and other sculptures.  Houston is home of the legendary Astrodome.  The first domed, climatised stadium in the world it lends its name to astroturf, which was first laid down here.  The new Reliant Stadium built next to it now takes pride of place.  Lunch stop is back at he same Vietnamese we visited yesterday.  Tim drives us around many other interesting parts of the city but our planned visit to the art show in the park is abandoned due to lack of parking.  We’re all pretty tired anyway and Tim’s back is playing up so return home for the evening.  Tim creates a delicious home made pizza and I make some real custard to go with a raspberry pie that I bought. 

HOUSTON 3

MONDAY 31 MARCH – Tim doesn’t start work until early afternoon so he helps out by driving us to the driver-licensing centre.  Steve’s Texas licence runs out this year and he wants to renew it and change the address to Tim’s.  There’s a huge queue so we decide we will just take the forms and apply by post.  I slide up to the information counter to ask if I can have them and am abruptly told that I must wait in the queue to ask for them!  By the time we have bided our time we figure we might as well go ahead with the application there and then.  Surmise that they don’t want to leave the forms readily available in case people take the wrong ones.  You receive your form and a number and must sit down, complete the form and wait for your number to be called.  Now you are entitled to stand in another line to see the clerk who will deal with your paperwork.  The second part of the system flows much faster and $26 (£13) lighter Steve is granted another licence to be sent out in the post.  It’s late morning and a dull day so we decide to make use of Tim’s Internet to while away the day and leave tomorrow.  It’s a very productive session as we learn that our Australian friends Ken & Kay are going to fly out and join us and stay in Harry at Cypress Cove naturist resort whilst we are back in England. 

HOUSTON 4