WEDNESDAY 1 JULY – Margaret goes out early to join friends to yoga and I meet her afterwards for coffee.  The teacher Thelma is a very interesting lady.  She met her Japanese husband at a Buddhist retreat in Scotland and went to live over there.  She is also very well travelled and amazes us with the story of her backpacking trip to Thailand with her baby daughter.  On the Internet I get a surprise message from Bev & Norm to say they are hoping to come over to Europe for the month of August and would love to meet up.  As we are looking after Natasha & Daniel that month it is going to take some organising so I swing into actions thinking up different plans.  It is a lovely afternoon so we sit out in the shade in the garden enjoying the company.

HITCHIN 2

 

THURSDAY 2 JULY – It is a lovely hot day, 25C by 8.30am.  Peter & Margaret takes us out for morning coffee at Luton Hoo Hotel, where the Queen used to stay.  It is a magnificent mansion with lovely gardens.  Set out to explore down to the Rock Garden with Peter following along on his mobility scooter.  Near the waterfall Margaret lives up to their name “Rollason” and takes a rolling tumble onto the grass when she goes over on her ankle.  She seems OK although a little shaken.  Walking back up to the house Peter takes his turn and falls out of the scooter when leaning over too far.  They show us some of the interesting features inside the mansion before we settle into the lounge for coffees.  Rooms here start at £350 so this is our only way of feeling rich without spending much.  The afternoon is spent between sitting in the garden and going on the computer.

HITCHIN 3

 

FRIDAY 3 JULY – We’ve had a great time with Margaret & Peter and it has give us chance to unwind a bit and recharge our batteries after all our dashing around.  We are heading to Wakefield today and Margaret takes us back to Stevenage so we can retrace our steps to London on Green Line, £7pp.   This seems to be the only economical way to get to Wakefield.  For the first time we use Mega Bus, £13pp and they seem fine but instead of taking about 2-hours by car it takes us 8 hours but we arrive safely and Karen & Auntie Pamela meets us at Wooley Edge service station.  Chris is out at a friends leaving do but Sarah is at home and along with boyfriends Mike joins us for a meal at the “Old Mill”.  Chris arrives home late but is still happy to stay up later chatting.

WAKEFIELD 1

 

SATURDAY 4 JULY – Chat to Chris in the morning and decide to book their cottage in France from 8-15 August to coincide with Bev & Norms visit.  It is in Brittany and close to many attractions and sleeps 6 so should be perfect. James has called round for the day so we leave the men watching Rugby whilst Karen and I make a trip round the shops and pick up some food for tonight.  Bob & Denise and her Mum come round for the evening and we get on with them really well.  After eating we play a card game, similar to Uno, and have a really good laugh.

WAKEFIELD 2

 

SUNDAY 5 JULY – By luck Denise & Bob are going to Burnley today to pick up a motorhome they bought on E-bay so we manage to get a lift with them to Keighley.  Settle back into Claire’s.

KEIGHLEY 1

 

MONDAY 6 JULY – We go round to Mom & Dads for the day except that I have to go back to Claire’s for a could of hours in the evening to be with Daniel whilst Claire & Natasha go swimming.

KEIGHLEY 2, MOM & DADS

 

TUESDAY 7 JULY – Mom & Dad drive us back to Claire’s and we stay there whilst I do us lunch.  Dad goes to Ling Studios for breathing exercises in the afternoon and whilst he is there Steve & I potter round town.  I spend the evening on the Internet and book us a hotel for the night we arrive in Boulogne and ferry crossings for us all.

KEIGHLEY 3

 

WEDNESDAY 8 JULY – Last summer we went to Egypt with Arf & Jean and have not seen them since.  They drive over from Sheffield to join us for the day.  Having spent the winter in Morocco in their motorhome we are eager to hear all about the trip and really enjoy their company.

KEIGHLEY 4

 

THURSDAY 9 JULY – David and Donna decide to pop over, David can’t wait for us to deliver the cigs we have bought back from Russia.  They stop for lunch and a chat then drop us at Rod & Nancy’s on their way home.  Their daughter Jenny now runs “The Ling Bob” pub and we meet Nancy there when she arrives back from work.  There is a good menu and the food is delicious and reasonably priced.  Rod & Steve drops us in Riddlesden so that they can go on to play snooker whilst Nancy & I walk to Sharon’s for a natter.  They forget to pick us up and the first we know of this is when Claire phones to check why we are not at bowling for her to pick us up!  She collects us from Sharon’s and we stay at Claire’s until Rod drops Steve home.

KEIGHLEY 5

 

FRIDAY 10 JULY – We are lucky that Claire pops home at lunchtime as she can run us down to Sandra & Keith’s to save us getting wet.  Sandra gives us a tour of their new campervan “Freddie” and it reminds us of Billy in Australia and makes us motor-homesick.  We enjoy a light lunch then spend the afternoon chatting and even sit out for a while when Sandra has a nap.  A guy from Sky comes round to show them how to use their new system and we can now understand why our parents are totally confused by it all.  Shimla Spice were awarded best restaurant in Keighley so we book for 6.30pm and can see why they won.  There is a vast choice on the menu, mainly Pakistani food, and we all seem to make good choices and really enjoy it.  Return to Sandra & Keith’s to chat until late.

KEIGHLEY 6

 

SATURDAY 11 JULY – I go down to Keighley baths to watch Daniels swimming lesson in the morning.  In the evening it is Steve’s turn to go to watch Natasha in a swimming gala at Aireborough.   Natasha’s mind is not really on it as she is going to a friends birthday party and sleepover afterwards so she doesn’t do as well as she might have done.

KEIGHLEY 7

 

SUNDAY 12 JULY – Pop down to Morrisons with Claire and pick up some beef for dinner, think I must have bought part shares in a cow as a small joint costs almost £10!  In the afternoon Steve joins Claire & Natasha going to Shipley swimming baths for another gala.  This time she returns with a bronze medal and was only 2 seconds off getting a huge trophy for being the most improved time in the 4 x 100 metres medley.

KEIGHLEY 8

 

MONDAY 13 JULY – For the first time we set out from Claire’s house on foot – she lives way out of town so you need to car to get to everything.  There’s a bus stop nearby and we buy a K-Day ticket for £3 and this gets us all the way to Leeds.  National Express charge £3 to Manchester and we arrive around 1.30pm and find David parked in the taxi rank waiting for us.  He has had a message to call into the Army office to be measured and weighed and due to the numerous one way streets in the city we get a grand tour before arriving there.  They tell him all the reports have come back fine and the next stage is the medical.  Back at his house we pick up Toby the dog and head over to Heaton Park for a long walk.  In front of the mansion is an unusual “ha ha” wall, designed to keep the cattle from coming onto the lawns whilst being invisible from the house.  Beginning Wednesday Macbeth is being performed in the park using many locations and we see some of the actors rehearsing.  Donna cooks a nice evening meal and we sit in their newly decorated dining room.  They have recently bought a new double bed so we get to stay in their bedroom whilst they use an airbed in the lounge and very comfy we are too.

MANCHESTER – PRESTWICH

 

TUESDAY 14 JULY – David drives us down to Mums with Donna joining us.  There’s a hold up on the M6 and when we get to the trouble spot we see that a caravan has come unhitched and gone up the embankment.  At Mums we chat over lunch then David heads home.  I walk up town to collect my book from WH Smiths.  It should be £19.99 but I ordered it on line for £11.99 and just have to wait a couple of days for it to be delivered to the store.  Now I can get on with doing some reading about South America to decide if we want to go there.  Bobby calls round in the evening, he has done a brilliant job resurrecting my old Acer computer and it now runs as a basic laptop with Windows 2000. 

MARKET DRAYTON 1

 

WEDNESDAY 15 JULY – I run Mum and Pauline up town then visit the library to do Internet dodging the showers on my way back.  Bobby comes round again to join us in the evening.

MARKET DRAYTON 2

TUESDAY 16 JUNE - We get up early and are ready to leave at 6.15am.  Mubins car is an old right hand drive Toyota with the bonnet tied down with string and a couple of dubious rear tyres but it is bigger and more comfortable than Lucia’s.  Once we have got around Moscow we make good time.  We are amazed by just how much forest there is in Russia as outside the villages this is all we see.  It is over 700km to St Petersburg but by 11.30am haven’t stopped so we suggest a short break.  Early afternoon we take a 40 minute lunch stop then pick up the ring road around St Petersburg to get to our hosts apartment around 5pm.  Liuba has been living and working in Southend but due to visa renewal problems is back in Russia for a short time.  Her English is excellent and we have lots to chat about.  She can accommodate Steve & me on a sofa bed in the spare room whilst Mubin has a host lined up elsewhere.  Liuba suggests taking the metro into the city and doing a boat trip to get our bearings.  The metro is very straightforward and much smaller than Moscow.  It is the deepest in the world as it has to go under the river so the escalator seems to go down forever.  Fares are R20 (40p) and again there are some impressive stations.  In all it takes about 30 minutes to get to Nevsky Prospect in the city centre.  We are instantly impressed by the architecture.  Almost every building on the main street is impressive.  Nothing prepares us for our first glimpse of The Hermitage in Palace Square, approached through an archway.  It is huge and very nicely painted.  Liuba shows us a few more nice buildings and statues before we board the boat, R400 (8.00).  The trip is longer and more interesting than the Moscow one and we learn that there are over 700 bridges in the city and many canals, a bit like Amsterdam.  To finish off the evening she leads us to a restaurant that serves the Russian version of fast food, it is interesting to be there as the place is nicely decorated but the food has been cooked before, left to go cold and then microwaved.  St Petersburg is in the north of Russia and at this time of year enjoys "white nights" as it never goes dark.  Exiting the restaurant we meet Liuba's daughter Aliona who hands over the car keys as she is out for the night.  We take the metro to pick up the car and change at an unusual station, instead of an open platform all you see is a corridor with lots of lift type doors that open when the train has arrived.   Mubin heads to his host and we get back to settle down at around 12.30pm.

SAINT PETERSBURG

 

WEDNESDAY 17 JUNE - Sleeping in the lounge it is very light as there are only decorative curtains that don't block out the light.  I end up putting my tube bra over my eyes with a black sock inside.  I may look stupid but manage to sleep until 8.30am.  Liuba has been on the phone to Mubin and arranged for us to meet later in the city.  She takes us out to a cemetery where thousands of people were buried during the 900 day siege of St Petersburg that began in 1941 and caused most of the population to starve to death.  Next we take a metro into the city and meet Mubin.  It is pouring with rain and Mubin has already been in the Russian museum and negotiated for us to have Russian pensioners rate, a huge saving at R30 (60p) instead of R350 (7.00) - we just have to remember not to speak English as we enter each sections and show our tickets.  He has also chatted up the lady who hands out the audio guides and is going to stay with her for his last 2 nights in St Petersburg – he sure is a sweet talker.  There are many exhibits but mostly Russian art and not that impressive to us however part of the museum is within Mikhailovsky Palace and this has some lovely rooms with fantastic ceilings.  We are in there for around 3-hours and once we leave go to a cafe that Mubin has checked out.  For R149 we get "borsch" soup, bread, fish and pasta or buckwheat, a small slice of swiss roll and a tiny dish of angel delight.  Not great food but very reasonably priced.  There are many more things we would like to do but the churches are all closed on Wednesday and we don't feel like walking in the rain.  Entering the metro station we find the doors are closed with a throng of people.  Inside the station we can see soldiers and sniffer dogs.  No idea what the problem is but we walk to another station instead.  We all go back to the flat where Aliana is there to greet us, Liuba has had a car accident, a car has run into the back of her, and must wait for the Police.  It takes over 2-hours for them to come and take statements - even the most minor accident here involves the Police. She is still quite upset when she gets back but perks up once her friend Sveta arrives to join us for a meal.  Sveta is an English teacher of small children and tells us of the methods they use including English television programmes.  We also spend a lot of time exchanging English and Russian jokes and setting out logic problems.  Think our English team come out ahead on that one!

ST PETERSBURG 2

 

THURSDAY 18 JUNE - We leave everyone in bed when we set out at 8.30.  We have no problem getting the right platform for the tube but the doors shut when Steve is on it and I am stuck on the platform.  With frantic gestures I make him understand to get off at the next platform and this works well – we seem to have been jinxed with travel traumas since it started with the London underground strike!  As in Moscow the women here love to wear very high heels with either extremely short skirts or skin tight jeans so plenty for Steve to look at!  In the centre of St Petersburg we meet Mubin and head to The Hermitage to join the queue for the 10.30am opening.  It is not raining but bitterly cold.  When we get inside it becomes a free for all but we manage to get to the ticket booth and Mubin gets us all tickets so today we are Russian citizens paying R100 (2.00) versus R350 (7.00) for tourists.  It is a magnificent museum with 3 connected buildings housing exhibitions of all kinds.  The famous artists have many works on display but we are far more impressed with the building itself, originally a Winter Palace.  It takes us 4-hours just to whizz through but I am sure many people could spend a week going round.  Next we walk to the "Church of the Resurrection of Christ" a fantastic building with lots of coloured onion dome towers.  As with most things in Russia there is an entry charge and we are not prepared to pay R300 (£6.00) for a peek inside.  There are some nice gardens next door and we make our way through these to the "Summer Gardens", closed for restoration.  Over the bridge we enter the Peter & Paul's fortress.  At almost all the famous places there are brides having their photos taken and this is no exception and they all travel in stretch limousines.  The church here is where many of the Tsars are buried so when Mubin gets us R90 (1.80) Russian price we take a look around.  Unfortunately the nearby metro is closed so we have a long walk to the next station.  We are back in time to shower and change before a night out with Liuba and Sergey.  They drive us to an Irish Pub and it is just like one in Ireland or England, except the drinks seem even more expensive with Guinness at R230 (£4.60) 1/2 litre.  We snack on 4 deep fried cheese balls for R250 (£5.00) whilst Sergey and Liuba have tiny salads at the same price.  Can't understand how Russians manage to visit places like this.  It seems to us that vodka, petrol, cigarettes and caviar are about the only cheap things here so not much use to us.  Anyway we have a nice evening chatting and learning more about Russian life during the communist days.

ST PETERSBURG 3

 

FRIDAY 19 JUNE - Meet up with Mubin then catch a bus, R50 (1.00) out to Petergof.  This is an estate built by Peter the Great with magnificent gardens.  Without realising it we get in without paying (the ticket person is elsewhere).  The gardens are fantastic with over 140 interesting fountains and canals.  The Grand Cascade is superb with the palace above and the lake below.  It keeps trying to rain but we make it round the main features and really enjoy it all.  Nearby is an impressive church and for once there is no admission.  Most of the churches here have frescoes covering all the walls so are interesting inside and out.  Return to the city to a vegetarian buffet for lunch, R250 (£5.00).  Afterwards we head to Nevsky Monastery more to visit the adjoining Tikhvin Cemetery.  The ticket attendant will only sell him 1 Russian ticket so Mubin stops some lads and asks them to get 3.  They do so but are sold R40 (80p) student tickets and surprisingly they let us in with them – so we have been pensioners, Russians and now students.  The cemetery is very interesting with many famous people buried there including Tchaikovsky and Rimsky Korsekof and lots of impressive memorial sculptures and unusual tombs.  Mustn’t forget to mention a funny incident with Mubin.  He is keen to learn new English phrases but being an English teacher is slow in spitting them out as he wants to be sure his English is correct.  This caused a problem for Steve when he called out “Steve” but stalled before saying “mind your head” causing Steve to bump his head as he was looking at Mubin instead of watching where he was going!  Tonight Mubin is staying with Regina (the attendant from the Russian Museum) but can’t go back until 8pm.  We return to Liuba's and Svetla comes round and another friend Nona.  Svetla has brought lots of games along so we play "Old Maid", "Go Fish" and Uno and thus learn some Russian numbers and colours.

ST PETERSBURG 4

 

SATURDAY 20 JUNE - Having meet up with Mubin we take the bus, R32 (64p) out to Pushkin (Catherine Palace).  P90 (45p) admission to the gardens for Russians (of course you now realise we are honorary Russians!).  The Palace looks lovely from the outside but the queue to go round is way too long.  I have a book to guide us round the gardens and am amazed to reach the Marble Bridge and read that it was modelled on the Palladian bridge in Wilton (the town where I lived as a child).  Also in the area is Pavlovsk, where the Great Palace is surrounded by gardens, R60 (1.20).  Maybe we are getting a bit palaced and gardened out but this is the least interesting one for us, made worse when the heavens open up.  Bus it back to Moscow then agree that although it is only mid afternoon we all have tired feet and have done enough.  Liuba and family are going away for the weekend but have left us a key so we are very happy to get back and have a bit of time alone.  In fact we are so weary that we go to bed around 8pm.

ST PETERSBURG 5

 

SUNDAY 21 JUNE - The longest day of the year but it really doesn't make much difference here as it never goes dark anyway.  Mubin arrives at 9.30am and we head off in the direction of Moscow.  On the outskirts of Velikey Novgorad the Police pull us over for a random check but only speak to Mubin and give him the chance to ask directions (we’ve noticed that this is one thing he loves to do and will often ask directions every 20 feet when we are trying to find something in the city).  Novgorad is a very old city and this weekend there is a festival with a row of cabins where neighbouring countries promote themselves.  These stands also offer some food and drink samples and one of them is even selling “Yorkshire beer”.  Also there are bands and some are playing really good music.  Over the bridge there is a small sandy beach with a volley ball tournament taking place.  In the Kremlin we visit the oldest church in Russia.  It is mid afternoon once we have finished and we are lucky to have parked on a street just beyond where a parade is taking place.  Pressing on we notice lots of "samovars" set up at the roadside serving tea.  Mubin gets pulled by the Police again, this time we believe it is for speeding but he escapes as their speed camera is playing up.  In Valday we check out a couple of hotels.  A fairly regular one on the lakeside charges R4800 (96.00) for a room whilst on the edge of town a room with no bathroom costs R1400 (28.00).  We are debating this when the receptionist comes out and suggests we might like to try another one in town.  There we get a double en-suite room (Mubin has his own) for R700 (14.00) per person.  It is not the best of hotels and certainly well past its best before date but the rooms are clean and we have a lake view.  Mubin says we should head straight to the monastery.  A pretty set up on an island in the middle of the lake.  The buildings are very attractive as is the setting.  Back at the hotel I have an early night whilst Steve and Mubin drink beer and eat sausages.

VALDAY

 

MONDAY 22 JUNE - Mubin gets up early for a swim down at the lake.  He ends up having to go round to the monastery to get in so is late returning at 9.30am.  Continuing our journey is much the same, forest, small villages, bad driving, bad roads.  We make a lunch stop at Tver, previously known as Lenin, and picnic on the banks of the Volga River.  Afterwards we walk around the town to check out the Palace used by Tsars en route from St Petersburg to Moscow.  It is a huge affair but almost completely derelict and waiting to be torn down.  Returning to the car there are lots of Police around.  It seems they have stopped a couple of cars coming over the bridge but Mubin is now worried he is parked illegally.  We have to "hide" until the Police have finished their paperwork and left.  On the outskirts of Moscow we see a huge memorial with lots of wreaths.  Today marks the anniversary of the 1941 entry of the Germans to Russia.  We arrive back in Klazma around 5pm to an empty house.  Last night Lucia has a call from her mother to say she must come immediately (she suspects her father has died).  So she boarded a train just before midnight last night and will be on it until 10pm tonight to get to her family home.  There's plenty of food in the house so I cook up a variation of the chilli pasta and we enjoy our first proper meal for ages.  

KLAZMA 1

 

TUESDAY 23 JUNE - We are all exhausted from the travelling so a day off is in order.  Mubin hears that Lucia's Dad has not died but has had a heart attack; she and her sisters will stay with him for some time.  Steve and I take a walk through the village to the shops but get lost en route.  We've learnt that most young people speak a little English and find a young man to ask the way to the station as we know the shops are nearby.  He directs us but soon after pulls up in his car to give us a lift right to the station.  We are a little embarrassed that we actually don’t want the station so pretend to go down the underpass until he has driven off.  Inside the village shops it is rather like lots of independent counters selling different products and you have to queue up to buy from each one so it takes a long time.  Walking back we get lost again (sounds stupid but most of the tracks are through the forest, don't go straight and are unnamed).  This time we find a man who speaks German and ask directions to the church as this is the nearest landmark to Mubin's.  We are on the right track but just lost confidence.  I spend the afternoon helping Mubin do things on his computer.  It is a lovely hot day so Steve sits out on the patio – a far cry from St Petersburg where we were wearing fleeces and coats and still feeling cold.  In the evening we have been invited for a meal at Dima's house.  We meet his father Karen, mother, Svetlana and grandparents Tatiana and Vladimir who all live together.  Dima gives us a guided tour of the garden and uses his English crib sheet to tell us the English names of the vegetables and plants.  Their house is huge and has a really grand dining room with a long table laden with food.  Vladimir produces Johnny Walker Black label whiskey and Vodka then spends the entire evening filling up our glasses when they are empty.  He proposes numerous toasts each of which means we must drink a little more.  By the end of the evening we can add “na zdorovje” to our new Russian phrases.   The family surprise us with some presents, a tray, glasses and matching bottle holder, a bottle of special vodka and a traditional shawl for me.  Their hospitality is overwhelming and we appreciate the opportunity to try different types of Russian food and learn more about their way of life.  Vladimir is a good friend of the artist C...... and he produces a gold covered book with the artist’s works whilst pointing out the ones he has on the walls.  We reach one picture and realise it is a portrait of Vladimir then look up to see it hanging in the room.  We arrived at 6pm and by the time we leave at midnight both Steve & Mubin are extremely merry whilst I am doing well after 2 glasses of vodka and one of Baileys.  Surprisingly neither of us sleep and both have a very restless night. 

KLAZMA 2

 

WEDNESDAY 24 JUNE - Before we left last night we realised some arrangements were being made for us today and were happy to "go with the flow".  Mubin says we must be ready at 8am and when we leave the garden Vladimir is waiting for us with his car and driver.  He wants to take us into Moscow on a sightseeing trip.  The traffic is really bad and after 1 hour we are still stuck in traffic on the outskirts.  With the heat in the car Steve is feeling really ill so we pull over to get him something to drink.  It turns out we have stopped at cash & carry yard where dozens of containers are opened up to create shops selling drinks by the case load. Whilst Steve would like water or tonic Vladimir returns with a bottle of whiskey, a bottle of vodka and 4 glasses.  Steve is feeling so ill he refuses Vladimir’s insistence to try the "hair of the dog" leaving Mubin and Vladimir to share the whiskey, must mention it is only 9am.  Manage to get Steve some water and set off.  Shortly after Steve feels much worse, thank goodness they bought the whiskey and vodka as the plastic carrier bag comes in handy when Steve starts throwing up.  Manage to pull over at a garage so he can sort himself out but it is not easy with Vladimir standing around trying to get him to drink alcohol!  He means well but Steve really just wants to be left alone quietly.  Anyway we make it through the centre to a hill on the south side of the city near the university with fine views.  Driving through the city we pass many of the famous and attractive Stalin skyscrapers but the MGU university building is one of the most impressive in wedding cake style.  We are on Sparrow Hills and there is a ski lift in the area and a church but the main attraction is the view.  Unbeknown to us Vladimir has sent his driver off to get some food and he appears with a huge tray covered with a white table cloth.  He unveils plates full of sandwiches, caviar, salami, cheese and raw bacon and garlic and a bottle of vodka and another of whiskey.  Next Vladimir has us taken to Victory Park area with a Russian war vehicle museum.  The public are not supposed to enter by road but once our driver greases the palms of the Police security guard we are able to drive through.  Adjoining the museum is a huge memorial to the Russian soldiers, it a 142m memorial obelisk with the archangel near the top but from a distance it looks more like a beetle.  We leave Steve resting in the car whilst we walk through the park and on to the Triumphal Arch.  Vladimir phones his driver and has him pick us up to save us walking back.  We sure are doing things in style today.  After a scenic ride through the city centre we double back beyond Klazma and out into the country.  Vladimir's friend has a special factory out here.  It is the only one in the world that makes everything needed for inside the church except the carpet.   Dima and Tatiana join us in their chauffeur driven car and we are admitted to the factory to do a special tour.  Steve remains along in the car to try and rest.  We begin in the museum with some amazing crosses with real precious stones, lots of crowns and other religious artefacts.  Next we go to see the icons being made for sale.  Each one is painstakingly painted individually using an egg mixture to prevent it from fading.  They also do restoration work on ancient icons and we go into a special temperature and humidity controlled room to see it being done.  Computer controlled machinery now does much of the embroidery and a piece that  is now completed in 4 days would have taken 2 years by hand.  The factory employs around 3000 people and is spread over a vast area.  Within the gardens are greenhouses where they grow fresh produce to be used in meals for the staff.  We end up in the sales area where there are rows of each type of item with prices.  This company has showrooms in countries such as Finland and Germany and also sells over the Internet.  It is really bizarre to look at the choices of altars, chandeliers and such like.  We return to collect Steve and only just in time as a guard has found him asleep in the car and is challenging him in Russian.  Moving into the restaurant area a table has been laid out for a meal for us.  Whilst we only number 8 there are already 23 plates of salads to begin with.  A lady brings round jacket potatoes and Vladimir opens the 2nd bottle of whiskey of the day.  Steve is very frustrated that he is not feeling well enough to do the caviar, salmon and other delicious dishes justice.  Next we are served beetroot soup with boiled eggs and sour cream and this is followed by cooked potatoes a bit like chips and steak with something on top.  We had no idea there was going to be so much food and having made a brave attempt on what turns out to have been the first course Steve can eat no more.  Coffee, tea and cakes rounds off a fantastic meal by which time Vladimir and Mubin are onto the 3rd bottle of Scotch.  It is hard to believe just how much the Russians eat and drink and their hospitality amazes us.  Both Steve and Mubin are very happy to get home around 6pm and settle down for a sleep.  I sit down to write up my diary of this most unexpected and amazing day. 

KLAZMA 3

 

THURSDAY 25 JUNE - Unsurprisingly Mubin is not feeling well whilst Steve is a little better. It is a cold day and it also begins raining so we are happy to stay at home.  I spend time giving Mubin travel sites on the computer.  In the evening I cook us fish & chips with cauliflower and broccoli.  Mubin is surprised that I have managed to make chips that are not swimming in grease as is the Russian style and he really enjoys them.  I also cook him up some meals to tide him through until Lucia comes back.

KLAZMA 4

 

FRIDAY 26 JUNE - It is difficult packing up as the presents we have been given take up almost all of one bag and we still need to pick up some cheap cigarettes.  Mubin wants to see us off so joins us on the train to Moscow and then onto the metro.  With time to spare we alight at a number of stations to appreciate the architecture.  We are sharing a bottle of water when a lady moves over to our side and presents us with a book opened to a page in English.  She's a Jehovah's Witness and disapproves of us using the same bottle and presents Mubin with a leaflet with certain sentences underlined!  Our final leg to the airport is the mini bus getting us there in plenty of time.  We've done on line check in but en route realised we needed to check in at least 1 bag as one of the presents was a bottle of vodka.  Repack and check in 2 bags before saying farewell to Mubin.  Security check in involves you standing in a round glass cabin, raising your arms whilst something sweeps around to do a body scan, very high tech.  We've had an excellent time in Russia, really enjoyed all the tourist highlights but it has been people that have been the icing on the cake.  Our 2 week trip has cost us around £900, (£360 whilst we were there and the rest on flights and visa's etc).  In AUSTRIA we connect to our Heathrow flight and settle down for the 2 1/2 hour journey.  After about 1 1/2 hours we notice the screen showing our plane turning around. The flight attendant tells us the captain will soon be making an announcement and 10 minutes later we learn that the plane has a crack in the windscreen (it has 10 layers so no real problem) and he has been instructed to return to Vienna.  To reduce pressure on the screen we will fly back slowly and at a low altitude.  Landing back in Vienna there are no more flights out to England.  It is such a shame that we must stay in the luxury airport hotel overnight and force ourselves to eat the buffet evening meal and breakfast - yippee.

VIENNA

 

SATURDAY 27 JUNE - After a leisurely pig out over breakfast we check in for our 11.45 BA flight to Heathrow, London ENGLAND.  We arrive in the middle of a heat wave and have to lug our bags, fleeces and raincoats whilst sweating profusely.  Today the Heathrow Piccadilly tube isn't running so we have to revise our plan.  (At the moment it seems we have a hiccup with every public transport journey we take). Catch the bus (£1 fare using the Oyster card instead of £2) to Fenchurch Station and then a train, £3.40 to Clapham Junction.  A short walks gets us to our Couchsurfing host Bernard who lives in a flat nearby.  We need to buy some foot so Bernard takes us for a walk to Clapham Junction town which is very close by.  Jamie Oliver has opened a shop here where people buy a package of ingredients for a meal and then stand at the work station preparing it with supervision.  We are also near to Lavender Hill and this brings up memories of the film "The Lavender Hill Mob" that we watch last winter with Kevin and Ruth.  Stock up on groceries at Lidl and return to cook some pizzas.  Bernard used to live in Zimbabwe and has had many Couchsurfers so we chat the evening away.

CLAPHAM JUNCTION

 

SUNDAY 28 JUNE - Bernard walks with us to the nearby bus station, he boards first and before we can step aboard the doors close.  We hammer on the door but the drive is oblivious and sets off.  Catch the next bus and Bernard joins us a few steps later.  We get off in South Kensington and set out to explore Hyde Park, very impressed with the Albert Memorial, check out the Princess Diana pool and wander along the Serpentine.  It is a really hot day and people are sprawled out on the lawns. Harrods is closed so we can't spend out money there.  Bernard leaves us when we head into the free Victoria & Albert museum.  The building is amazing and in the central courtyard kids are paddling in the pool whilst others lie around sunbathing.  We spend about 2-hours enjoying the building and the many varied displays - it actually compares well to the Hermitage as it is so varied.  Next stop the nearby Science Museum but this holds less appeal for us.  Finally the National History Museums is wonderful will a massive hall holding replicas of famous monuments. columns and church facades.  So other than the bus journey in and out at a total of £2 each we have had a fantastic day and spent nothing.  In the evening we want to take Bernard out for a meal and he suggests Little Bay where they have cheap meals before 7am.  It looks nothing from outside but the interior is decked out in Far East style with lots of billowing material on the ceiling and small niches to sit in.  The food is also excellent and reasonable at £2.25 for starters, £5.95 mains and £2.25 desserts.  A classic case of local knowledge being a winner.

CLAPHAM JUNCTION 2

 

MONDAY 29 JUNE - Today's travel hiccup is that the bus we are on to Waterloo has a last minute change of direction and terminates at St Thomas's hospital.  No matter as with Bernard's help we find our way to the south bank of the river.  There is a lovely walk along here past the London Eye and theatres and with fine views over the city.  The Tate Modern gallery is a bit of a laugh for us as we cannot believe some of the things they consider art - at one stage I drop my handbag on the floor and almost expect someone to photograph it as an exhibit.  Next door The Globe looks interesting from the outside (high admission fee) so we then walk over the famous Millennium Bridge and find it no longer wobbles.  Bernard peels off at this point and leaves us to continue to St Pauls cathedral (£11 admission) so we give a miss in favour of the free Museum of London.  The fire of London part is quite interesting but much of it is closed for renovation.  It is now early afternoon and very hot so we crash out in "The Postman's" park for an hour.  This is an interesting pocket park within the city with a wall of remembrance for heroes, ordinary people who have gone out of their way to try to save someone else and lost their own lives in doing so.  Hop on the bus to the British Museum and we are immediately enthralled.  The central court is the largest covered square in Europe and the galleries are huge.  I am fascinated by a display about the amount of drugs we take in a lifetime.  A male and female are followed from birth to death with a net containing all the pills they would have taken sectioned off to the different decades of their lives.  The Parthenon marbles are even more impressive after watching a video about them and the Rosetta Stone is another highlight.  It is probably our favourite museum so far.  In fact we are in there until closing time.  Amble along through Soho, China town and Piccadilly Square until we reach The Mall.  Opposite St James Palace we notice the Policeman dropping the chain.  He won't tell me who is due to arrive but says it is worth hanging around.  Half an hour later Prince Charles arrives home and sweeps past in the back seat of the car not 2 feet from us.  He must have recognised us as he gives a friendly wave!  Pick up the bus in Victoria to arrive back after a most interesting, but exhausting 12- hour day.

CLAPHAM JUNCTION 3

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TUESDAY 30 JUNE – We return to Victoria station to make our way to Hitchin.  It is promoted by National Express but their ticket office says it is run by Green Line, just across the street, and leaves at 1020am.  We are very early so I wander round the nearby shopping centre, return at 10 past 10 to find Steve fuming as the bus left at 10am and there isn’t another until 11am.  £7.50 gets us to Stevenage where our friend Margaret picks us up in the car.  We settle into the spare bedroom and have a most enjoyable afternoon enjoying the heat wave by sitting under a shady tree in the garden chatting.  Husband Peter has recently had an ankle operation so is probably glad of the company.

HITCHIN

 

 

 

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200906

 

MONDAY 1 JUNE 2009 – Claire has a nice list of jobs for us to do so I set off downtown to buy a few things.  Daniel and Natasha are swapping rooms and we are helping to get Daniels new room ready so need decorating stuff etc.  I’ve managed to find a lot of stuff on line and have ordered stuff to be collected from the stores.  I’m amazed by how many shops have closed down since last year and end up spending 3-hours because I can’t find things.  Steve has been busy removing the fitted wardrobe and shelves.  It is a really hot day so we both take a break in the afternoon to sunbathe.

KEIGHLEY 3

 

TUESDAY 2 JUNE – The kids are sleeping at Daz’s for the next couple of nights so we get stuck into the decorating.  The room is only about 6 foot square so we take it in turns to do the painting.  By mid afternoon the pink walls are all a light grey and everything is finished and looks pretty good.  It feels a bit like when we went through Parkwood in 10 days doing a whole room per day.  The new bed is arriving tomorrow so we have had to press on.  Again it is a really hot day so we manage a bit of sunbathing.  Claire is out swimming in the evening so we invite Lisa and Mick around for a meal and chat.

KEIGHLEY 4

 

WEDNESDAY 3 JUNE - I begin with a trip down town, a skin test at the hair salon ready for a colour tomorrow and more shopping for decorating supplies.  The bed hasn’t arrived by lunchtime and when I phone “Rooms” he says the delivery has just been dropped off and they only have the mattress and not the base so we cancel.  Claire goes downtown in her lunch hour to check out another one for delivery later today then I follow her down to pay.  The new bed arrives and I quickly get the bedding on to have it looking nice for when Claire gets back from work.  She is also happy with the way we have organised the furniture in Natasha’s new room and agrees with us that we should press on and paint the blue wall pink to complete the transformation.  Steve sets about giving it two coats of white in preparation whilst Claire goes for the pink and I paint the front door.  All hard work but we are beginning to see results.

KEIGHLEY 5

 

THURSDAY 4 JUNE – I leave Steve putting the pink sparkle paint on the wall.  Call round to pick up Mom, as she wants to see what the College beauty salon is like.  It turns out my hair colour, cut and blow wave is going to take longer than anticipated so she leaves me to bus home.  Steph does a very good job and at £11 for a full permanent colour and £2.40 for the cut it is very reasonable.  Back at home Steve has ended up having to put on 3 coats of pink (that’s 5 coats on the wall since 6pm last night – crazy).  We have a frantic couple of hours getting everything straightened as much as pos before heading for Doctors appointments.  Last year in Florida we had our skin checked for cancers and were warned to get them rechecked.  The Doctor here feels they are no problem but we should keep and eye on them.  When the kids get home they are both very pleased with their new rooms so all our hard work was well worthwhile.  Keeping up the pace I take Daniel to scouts whilst Claire is out swimming.  Really don’t think we could keep going at this rate without meeting ourselves coming back. 

KEIGHLEY 6

 

FRIDAY 5 JUNE – We have a last tidy round and wash our bedding, and Mums car, before leaving.  Drive to Prestwich to meet up with David & Donna.  When we arrive only Chelsea is home as David & Donna are at the funeral of the lady from next door.  We wait awhile then Chelsea gives them a call and says they are at the welcome.  I completely misunderstand this and think this must be a Manchester expression for a wake.  As the conversation develops I finally realise that they are at The Welcome pub just up the road.  We call in for fish and chips then head to the pub to chat with David and Donna in the beer garden.  David looks really well having put on a bit of weight and grown his hair however Donna is still not recovered after her operation last year and obviously in quite a lot of pain.  Arrive at Mums late afternoon and sit chatting before we settle ourselves back into the spare room.  We speak to Claire in the evening and she is really pleased with everything in the house but not the bedding that was wet through on the line as has rained in Keighley all afternoon.  For once we are in the right place as it is just cold in Drayton but dry.  Mum is keen to go away at Christmas so Swatours opens and I begin negotiations with Auntie Pamela and Mom & Dad to try and find a trip that suits them all.  Netty & Ian call round in the evening and we have a chat and a bit of a laugh.

MARKET DRAYTON

 

SATURDAY 6 JUNE – Other than waking up once in the night I have slept really well and am surprised to find it almost 9am when I get up.  Claire and family get up around 6.30am and I have been waking up with them to get on with jobs so I was due a lie in.  It is a miserable raining morning so I drive Mum up for her hair appointment then walk to the library for Internet.  I hear Aussie voices and find myself sat by Steve and his wife who live in Victoria and have a holiday home in Ocean Grove near Bev & Norm.  They are renting a canal boat to do a circular tour in the area.  When I get back I open Swatours and finalise the trip for Mum and everyone to do a coach tour to Ilfracombe for 5 days over Christmas.  In the afternoon I drive Steve to the pub so he can watch the England match – with great interest as they have almost guaranteed their place in the World Cup which means we plan to be back in South Africa next summer. 

MARKET DRAYTON 2

 

SUNDAY 7 JUNE – It is another rainy day, think we may have had the best of the summer last week!  Mum goes to church in the morning whilst we try to sort out some of our affairs.  It is Nick’s 17^th birthday and he is having a party so we head round there around 3pm.  It is raining and the original plan was for a BBQ so in true British style Ian arrives opens the garage door and sets up his stand underneath it.  We have a great laugh, Bobby’s is there with his girlfriend Kat, Nick with girlfriend Rachel and Netty’s friend Debbie, whom we also know, also joins in the fun.  Once Nick has blown out the candles on his cake we grab him to do the bumps.  Mum has a bit of a headache and leaves mid evening but we stay on quite late chatting.

MARKET DRAYTON 3

 

MONDAY 8 JUNE – We are on a mission with lots to do but fall at the first hurdle.  All we want to do is convert a bond that matures next week, whilst we are away, into an ISA.  Not so simple as you have to put in £3600 and they don’t know the exact value of the bond until the interest is added at the end.  I leave Steve gathering checks and go to the library to do our tax return on line but get stuck with that as Steve has the bankcards with the information I need.  Back home I had planned to go to the Tesco clearance store with Mum but she has heard it is only open weekends, sure enough it is closed today and now opens Wednesday to Saturday but at least Mum gets her shopping done.    

MARKET DRAYTON 4

 

TUESDAY 9 JUNE – It is a cold day and I am glad of the fleece jacket I have recently bought.  On the Internet I realise we may have problems in London tomorrow.  Elizabeth Street is where the National Express coach station is and is also where we could have caught a bus out to Heathrow.  From tomorrow afternoon it is closed for a street festival.  Checking out the alternative of the underground I learn that they are on strike for 2 days.  Good job we don’t fly until Thursday morning, reckon we could end up hitching a lift at this rate!  In the evening we drive over to Paul & Elaine’s and Pete & Carol come up to meet us all there.  We send out for Chinese and curries so we can spend more time catching up on news.   As usual Pete puts on a great performance and has us all in stitches.  It’s amazing how some things never change!

MARKET DRAYTON 5

 

WEDNESDAY 10 JUNE – Mum usually gets a lift to town but can’t today so I offer to drive her and Pauline up after her pupil leaves around 10.15.  At the library I do on line check in for Austrian Airlines, easy with only hand baggage.  It is raining mid afternoon so Mum offers to drive us to the bus station to catch the 3.10 to Hanley, £2.60.  We have a short wait for the 4.20pm National Express bus to London.  They stop at motorway services within an hour; think this is because they then get a voucher to travel free on the new toll road.  Nearing London the traffic is really bad due to the tube strike.  Our driver pushes along but gets blocked when a lorry driver tries to share the same lane.  There is a bit of road rage when the lorry drive comes over to shout at our driver but size wins and the lorry backs up.  From Victoria coach station we want to go to Heathrow, can’t take the tube due to a strike, can’t catch the local bus nearby as the street is cordoned off for a festival so have to use the National Express airport shuttle £4.  The 8pm is running late and we leave at 8.40pm but within an hour are stopped at the side of the road with a tyre problem.  We've been hearing strange noises and bits of rubber have come off and made a real mess of the wheel arch.  We must wait for another bus and just over an hour later a Dillons coach takes us to the airport.  With no tube running between terminals we are very pleased to find that the Heathrow Central bus stop is only a short walk to Terminal 2.  It is really quiet and we join the other "couchsurfers" laid out on the seats.  We are quite comfortable but sleep is nigh on impossible due to security announcements about unattended baggage every 15 minutes. 

HEATHROW AIRPORT

 

THURSDAY 11 JUNE- At 4am the departure area opens and we proceed through.  Austrian Airlines say you can only have 1 piece of hand luggage weighing 8kg but having checked in on line no one has weighed our bags or looked to see how many we have.  Our 6.05 flight to Vienna leaves on time and we have just over an hour to wait for our onward flight to Moscow.  We land in RUSSIA Moscow Domodedovo airport a little ahead of schedule.  At passport control it is organized chaos with no orderly line just a huge crowd of people pushing forward.  We see the right side moving faster then get to the front to find we are in the “diplomatic passport” area.  Anyway they seem to be taking everyone and we are very surprised how quickly the formalities are completed.  As we emerge into the terminal Mubin (our couchsurfing host) comes running up behind us.  As we have little baggage he says we can use the local bus and train to get to his home.  Exchange rate is around Rubles 50 = GBP1 so easy to convert.  The micro bus, R100 (5.00), takes us to the metro station at the edge of the city.  In Russia they drive on the right but seem oblivious to normal road rules!  Mubin is an English teacher and although he speaks well he wants to perfect phrases etc during our visit so we immediately begin chatting.  He has a carrier bag with beer inside so we have our first taste of Russian beer whilst on the bus.  The bus stops by the steps down to the Metro.  These tickets cost R22 (44p) per journey and we are soon underway on the largest underground in the world.  Many of the older stations are really impressive with fancy ceilings, chandeliers and murals.  Emerge at Komsomolskaya station adjacent to Yaroslavl train station.  Our journey costs R56 (1.12) and takes about 45 minutes to the town of Klazma where Mubin lives.  Every few minutes a vendor appears in the carriage and stands at the end giving the info on what he has to sell, food and drink (including beer), DVD’s, clothing and other things.  They are very professional and use a microphone to promote their wares.  Business seems good as they all make at least one sale.  Arriving in Klazma Mubin wife Lucia is waiting in the car.  She doesn’t speak English but seems very friendly and is always smiling and laughing.  They have a wooden home in the forest and we have our own room.  After a shower we enjoy our first Russian home cooked meal, a few a salad items followed by mash and chicken then salami, cheese and bread.  Mubin takes us for a walk around the area.  We are amazed to see huge posh mansions amidst small rustic log cabins.  Apparently Moscow has more billionaires than New York.  Walking down by the river it begins to rain so we head for home and settle into the spare room on the sofa bed. 

KLAZMA NR MOSCOW

 

FRIDAY 12 JUNE- Today is a holiday in Russia so Mubin & Lucia suggest we got out for a drive in the country.  Before that we try a Russian breakfast of rice porridge, bread, salami and homemade cottage cheese.  It is a nice sunny day and when we set off at 10.15 the roads are very busy.  The 2 lane dual carriageway has become 5 lanes with people driving in the centre lane, on the hard shoulder and also the dirt beside it.  Lucia is driving, aided and abetted by Mubin who encourages her to keep changing lane.  There are many modern cars on the road but lots of old Lada's and these are the ones that are generally seen broken down.  The countryside is very green with vast expanses of forest.  Petrol varies in price but seems to average 40p litre for regular unleaded.  We’ve been trying to explain motorhomes to Mubin & Lucia and this is made easier when a caravan tour of about a dozen Italian ones come towards us.  In Russia they use the cryllic alphabet so during the journey I try to learn it by translating the place names and it is no easy task.  Capital and lower case letters are used along with symbols.  Rostov is a most attractive town and we picnic down by the lake.  The main attraction here is the Kremlin (fortress) as it is very old.  We really enjoy wandering between the different buildings linked by bridges and outside walls.  There are many churches with nice frescoes and museums with exhibitions. Your admission ticket must be marked on entering each room and I notice the people seem quite surly so make it my mission to get one to smile.  I finally do on all but the last room.  Also in Rostov is a nice monastery with lots of domes on the church.  On the way back we stop at Pereslvl, the place where Peter the Great made his first boat.  There is a museum containing a replica on the hill but it is closed.  We take another picnic by the lake but a thunderstorm makes us cut it short.  Lucia has driven all day, to enable Mubin to drink, so must be tired when we get back at 9pm.  Mubin used to teach English to a neighbour’s boy called Dima and he wants to come round and chat.  He arrives with a lovely orange cake his mother has made.  He is 17 years old and his spoken English is now better than Mubins, but he has visited England and is still studying it at college. 

KLAZMA 2

 

SATURDAY 13 JUNE - - Lucia stays at home whilst Mubin takes us into Moscow on the train and metro.  We emerge in Revolution Square then walk around the corner to Red Square.  It is very impressive with the huge GUM department store on one side and the Kremlin opposite with the magnificent red Historical museum at one end facing the really picturesque onion domed St Basils Cathedral at the other.  To enter the cathedral costs R350 (7.00) but Mubin gets us all pensioner tickets for R100 (2.00).  Not as bad as it sounds as in Russia pension age is 55 for a woman and 60 for a man.  The cathedral is magnificent with numerous chapels with frescoes and murals linked by passages and stairs.  We double back through Red Square where a wedding couple are pausing for photos and even pose for us to take one.  We also stop for the obligatory picture on the KM 0 plaque where many people make wishes and throw a coin over their shoulder for each one.  Next we wander through the Alexander Gardens with the Unknown Soldier’s grave, story character statues in the stream and an impressive horse fountain.  There is a huge line for the Kremlin tickets and no discounts without proof so we pay R350 (7.00).  After walking over a bridge we emerge inside the walls to find modern and old buildings.  The churches are again impressive with murals and icons.  There is a famous canon and a bell, both the largest in the world but they have never been used.  We picnic in the Secret Garden before heading over the river to catch a boat.  R400 (8.00) gets us a 40 minute trip and we get to see lots of things including Peter the Great statue and Gorky Park.  We get off near the station that goes to Odessa and there is a wonderful fountain where we paddle to cool our feet backed by the Crystal Bridge over the river.  Back on the metro we wander the length of Arabat pedestrian street then walk through parks with statues and theatres.  Whilst walking around I can't help but notice that many Russian women are tottering around in high heels and are very dressed up, actually it is Steve that points this out plus the fact they have very long legs and big boobs, I guess the miniskirts and low tops don't hide much.  Again we get an evening storm.  Dima comes round and says he was very frightened as it is the worst storm he has known.  Tonight he has bought an apple cake from his Mum and we eat this after the liver and mash and the ubiquitous salami, cheese and bread.  It seems true that in Russia you get little variety of food but plenty of it and plenty of beer to wash it down.   After dinner Lucia produces some good Russian vodka and tells us we have to take 3 shots and follow each one with something salty like raw fish.  Now this is the part of Couchsurfing we really enjoy, when we get to know the local traditions although eating the fish is not on my agenda. 

KLAZMA 3

 

SUNDAY 14 JUNE - We set off early to beat the queues for Lenin’s tomb.  It is very somber but quite an experience to see him lying there looking more like something from Madame Tussauds waxworks than a preserved corpse.  Next we explore the GUM department store, 3 sections with high glass domed ceilings and lots of bridges joining the different areas.  There's a free guided tour of Kitay Gorod area leaving from Revolution Square at 11am and although it isn't in English we tag along.  Between Mubin filling us in and our Rough Guide we get a really good walk through district.  One of the buildings is famous as in has a huge hall inside and in 1994 they filled it with Masaratis and Ferraris sold out by the end of the day.  We walk up to Gorky's House and really appreciate some of the interesting “Gaudi style” features inside.  Onwards to Patriarch Ponds with fantastic brass 3d pictures depicting Aesop’s style fables along with a huge statue of the author Ivan Krylov.  It is a long metro ride out to Kolomensko but once we climb the hill and walk through the arches and see the magnificent Church of the Ascension with a stunning view of Moscow behind it is all worthwhile.  We are all weary and feel frustrated that our next long walk takes us to a replica wooden Palace that is still being built and cannot be visited; well at least we have seen the unfinished 8^th wonder of the world.  Arrive back shattered but very happy with all we have seen and done.  Mubin is not happy as the workers have made a real mess of his new gate.  We hear him having a go at them when they come round for payment and Steve is frustrated that he can't help by backing him up. 

KLAZMA 4

 

MONDAY 15 JUNE - In Russia tourists must be registered within 3 working days of their arrival.  There is confusion over where and how this must be done.  Hotels are responsible for registering their guest whilst for independent travellers the onus falls on their "landlord".  Mubin says we will try the local Police station where we arrive early and must wait for the 10am opening.  He gets forms to fill in, has to drive home to get family to sign papers and returns with his brother.  All to no avail as they then say we must go to Puskina Police Station, huge queue when we get there.  I've read on the Internet you can register at the Post Office and yes you can but this one doesn't do it on Mondays.  We want to go to St Petersburg tomorrow so need to get registered today.  At Mubins we call "Real Russia" who issued our visa and have an office in Moscow.  They will register us for R1000 (£20.00) each but say Mubin can do it at a Moscow Post Office cheaper.  In the car we find a Post Office on the outskirts but it is closed 1-2.  When it opens we find that their photo copier is broken and we need copies of our passport, entry visa and arrival form.  The photo copy shop next door closes for lunch from 2-3.  We leave Mubin filling in the forms and set out to get copies.  At a bathroom showroom across the road the assistant kindly does them for us and won't accept payment.  It takes Mubin almost 2-hours to complete the procedure.  He has difficulty with the forms and has to ask for assistance but the clerk shouts back at him.  Apparently they are very poorly paid and see no reason to be nice to customers!  Eventually we complete the process at a cost of R118 (2.36) each plus R89 (1.80) for recorded delivery.  We are given a receipt that Mubin must hand into a Police Station within 24-hours of our departure.  We can see why few people visit Russia independently with all this performance to go through.  Arriving back late afternoon Mubin realizes the gate in the fence has nothing to keep it closed and with us leaving Lucia behind tomorrow he wants to fit a lock and does so assisted by Dima and Steve.  For 3 years Mubins car has been stored in his brother garden so he gets it out to give it a run and top up the fluids. 

KLAZMA 5