WEDNESDAY 11 NOVEMBER – Bruce & Louise are leaving today as the advance party heading to Salta.  Mid morning we take a taxi, AR$30 (£5) for the 20 minute 8km steep ride up the mountain.  At the top we want to do the walk to “Giganta  del Diablo”, AR$3 (50p).  Initially we walk down to the bottom of the gorge then follow the course of the stream hopping to a fro across it.  The rocks here are purple and turquoise and make a beautiful backdrop.  At the end of the gorge is the waterfall, so tempting to duck under it but signs tell us this is the towns water supply so no bathing.  Back tracking we go the opposite way following the water course channel, at one stage balancing on the edge of the channel with a sheer drop at the side of us.  You can continue this way to join the track back to town but it seems quite dangerous so we return to the entrance and the main road.  Further down the main road is a much easier and safer track of 4km taking us back to the village?  As we are now much higher we can see more of the orange/red uplift amongst the hills opposite – an amazing area for geology.  It only takes 45 minute to get back so we are glad we opted to do the hike rather than keep the taxi waiting.  In the evening we want to try a meal at the local cookery school, www.egma.com.ar  Fellow backpackers from Germany Andreas and Beata are game to join us.  The food is quite pricy by local standards so our hopes are high for some gourmet cuisine.  We share a platter of cheeses and meats as a starter. AR$36 (£6), then Steve has huge medallions of beef as his main whilst Beata & I do less well with the lasagne.  No sign of pasta just meat layered with creamed purple mashed corn.  Overall not a huge success.

TILCARA 4

 

THURSDAY 12 NOVEMBER – Our last day here so we have a lie in then relax on our terrace.  Book the Balut bus to Salta for tomorrow, AR$38 (£6.40) and we are given seats 1 and 2.  These are at the top of the bus at the front and in other South American countries are known as the death seats but hopefully not here in Argentina where driving standards seem higher. Take lunch at the local restaurant then home again.    Laze around and watch a movie in the evening, thank you Bobby for putting so many on my hard drive.

TILCARA 5

 

FRIDAY 13 NOVEMBER –   As we have stayed for 5 nights Danny kindly charges us AS$70 per night the same as the other room.  Both he and his nephew Pablo have been brilliant in offering us lots of help and travel advice.  It is Friday 13^th, a good day to travel or not – time will tell.    We rather enjoy the front seats at the top of the bus as we have a panoramic view of the scenery.  At Salta bus station there are a few hotel touts.  We are amazed to be offered the 3* Cumbre Hotel with a double en-suite and buffet breakfast for AR$80 (£13).  It looks lovely in the brochure and we fear there is a catch but with a free taxi ride there with and commitment what do we have to lose?  It lives up to the brochure pictures and the price includes free internet, cable TV and air-con.  We are a little further from the centre than other hotels but it makes for an interesting walk.  Surrounding the main square are numerous fascinating sculptures made out of scrap metal.  The main cathedral looks very pretty in pink but a couple of blocks away the church of San Francisco is magnificent.  It has the most unusual entrance doors with concrete shaped to look like a curtain pelmet above each one.  As we walk back the streets are coming to life and our area seems to be full of hairdressers and wholesalers selling sweets and packaged cakes.   We have to double back to find a restaurant and I get a shock when my AR$15 (£2.50) promotion meal arrives. A 1 litre bottle of coke and a 12” pizza, no wonder the waitress was confused when Steve ordered another meal for himself. 

SALTA, CUMBRE HOTEL www.cumbrehotel.com.ar

AR$80 (£13) Inc buffet breakfast

 

SATURDAY 14 NOVEMBER – Bruce & Louise are due back in town this morning so we hang around until mid day then decide we need to get things done.  At the bus station we buy our onwards tickets to Chile with Gemini’s, AR$170 (£28).  At a tour office we book to go to Cafayate tomorrow and Cachi on Monday, ARS190 (£32) for the two a saving of AR$50 on booking separately.   Just after we get back to our hotel Louise arrives.  After their stay on the ranch they were dropped at a hotel in the city centre and she has left Bruce there sleeping.  Our hotel has a swimming pool that is closed until December but at the moment they give you free tickets to use another one.  Steve is glued to the TV watching sport Louise & I decide to go for a swim.  Unfortunately the baths are public ones and heaving with kids so we pass.  In the evening we are supposed to meet Bruce & Louise in the square at 7pm but around 6 the heavens open up with thunder and lightning.  The rain is so bad that the street quickly floods with cars having a hard time getting through.  It’s a fair walk to the square so we cop out.  Needing to eat Steve pops to the shop next door which is also flooded so the man has people waiting at the door and passes stuff out to them. 

SALTA 2, CUMBRE HOTEL

 

SUNDAY 15 NOVEMBER – Up just after 6am as our tour bus should arrive between 6.45 and 7.15.  Breakfast starts at 6.30 so we fit that in.  Just about to give up when the bus arrives at 7.45 as we are the last pick up.  Bruce & Louise made it to the square 10 minutes late, and eventually figured we were no shows.  Our tour bus takes us out into the country and after an hour or so we reach the gorges which impressive rocks.   Garganta Del Diablo (Devils Throat) is one stop as is the natural amphitheatre with acoustics proven by amateur musicians.  Other rocks are shaped like a duck, titanic, frog and prince.  En route guide Pablo has us chewing coca leaves and we reckon this helps us see the shapes!   Cafayate is in the middle of the wine region and we call in at a winery before lunch.  The dry aromatic white is delicious.  In the town the tour stops at a restaurant for lunch but it is packed out and has loud music.  We have 2 hours until meeting up in the square so find our own place and wash down our tasty food with a litre of wine.  A second winery is the next stop with a few more photo stops in the gorges on the way out.  All in all an interesting trip.  Back in Salta we go for a final drink and snack with Louise & Bruce (they are flying to Buenos Aires tomorrow).  Leaving the restaurant it is raining heavily so we call it a night.

SALTA 3, CUMBRE HOTEL

 

MONDAY 16 NOVEMBER – Well this morning our wakeup call is late and the bus is early – typical.  The bus is only half full but we drive up onto a housing estate, with fine views over the city, and pick up a family group of 11 people.   For over an hour we drive out towards Cachi then begin to climb the mountains.  We are the only English speakers on board so guide Monika just gives us an abbreviated version of the talk.  Today we are going to traverse 4 areas of vegetation beginning in a cloud forest jungle.  Walking just a few yards into the forest we can see the strange moss on the trees and the way many of them have roots growing upwards out of the earth whilst others cling to rock walls.  The next area higher up is sparse trees, occasional cactus and farming.  One of the many stops is so we can walk over an old road bridge.  It is made of planks going across with other lengthwise for the vehicles.  One lady opts to walk in the middle but doesn’t notice the gaps.  Her leg falls through one and her camera drops to the river below.  Luckily she has just grazed her leg and her camera falls onto gravel beside the water and still works once retrieved.  Meanwhile our driver is mending a puncture from where he hit one of the rocks from the recent rain induced rock falls.  We then begin the climb proper, a steep ascent along valleys then directly up with lots of hair pin bends.  The minerals in the rocks create amazing colours.  It takes 40 minutes to climb the famous bishops something or other.  Up and eventually above the clouds we reach a plateau.  We travel part of the famous Inca road.  Here they achieved the amazing feat of producing a road over 20km long with only 3cm deviation from the straight.  They did this by building at night and lining up torch bearers to show the way.  We are now in a forest of Cordones cactus and hear the fascinating story of how they are born and live to over 400 years.  Higher still we meet local people selling all kinds of herbs and spices very cheaply.  These are the families of the “gauchos” who live off the land and still farm in the primitive manner.  The lunch stop is at a rather posh and expensive restaurant in the middle of nowhere.   Steve orders the starter of roasted lamb tripe and says it is excellent.  Once we arrive in Cachi we have 1-hour to look around.  Probably about 45 minutes too long as other than the streets having high pavements, to enable the short women and children to mount horses, there is little of interest.  In fact most of these tours could be at least 1/3 shorter if they didn’t take such frequent and long stops.  Even a toilet break ends up being ½ hour.  The journey back is in better weather so we manage to stop at a few viewpoints that on the way up were shrouded in cloud.  It is still a long haul and we don’t get back until after 8pm.  It is funny when Monika does her final speech and thanks us for being nice English people, always smiling laughing and being funny and not as she expected!

SALTA 4, CUMBRE HOTEL

 

TUESDAY 17 NOVEMBER – Another early morning start.   Our Geminis bus leaves at 7am and is nice and comfortable.  We do two pickups en route then begin to head toward the “Jama Pass”.  It is a spectacular journey and we wonder why we bothered with the last two trips – isn’t hindsight wonderful.   We get to see all the coloured rocks in the Quebrada de Humahuaca then climb up the mountains just like yesterday.  On the plateau we cross numerous salt pans.  Lunch is a couple of sandwiches and a wafer biscuit washed down with Coke.  Funnily enough we are served this whilst bouncing along then shortly after we stop at the Argentinean exit border.  As the exit stamp formalities take quite some time it would have been so easy to serve lunch whilst waiting there.  It is a desolate place with nothing other than the few customs buildings.  It is 160km’s from here to the first town in CHILE where we will complete arrival formalities.  Many stretches of road are long and flat but we also do more up and down mountain climbs with views, interesting sand dunes and rock formations.  In the afternoon we get a hot drink and a croissant.  Now why serve this on a nice flat stretch of road when you can pull up on a slope, serve the drinks then set off on a bumpy winding stretch downhill.   At San Pedro the customs office is at the edge of town and would be very easy to skip if you were so inclined.  All our bags have to off loaded, searched then put back on for the 2 minute journey to the bus stop.   We’ve arranged to be met by Couchsurfing host Marta at the bus station but we just arrive at a dusty car park.  No sign of Marta but by the time our bags are unloaded she has arrived.  Walking through the town we can tell it is really only thriving due to tourism.  It is said to be the most expensive town in Chile, even more expensive than Santiago the capital.  The ATM is out of order but Hostal “Corvatsch” takes credit cards.  Chilean Pesos 800 = £1 so our basic room with just beds and a table at CH$15,000 works out at just short of £20.  En suite rooms are roughly double so we may not be having many of those!    The main attractions here are the tours of the salt pans, geysers etc but the reason we have stopped is that it was the first possible break in the journey.  We wander around the town with narrow dirt streets and are amazed to see a motorhome coming towards us.  Even more surprisingly it is a conventional European “A” class with Italian plates.  The other motorhomes we have seen have been converted Mercedes panel vans.  Before we get near enough to be able to direct him to the campground he takes a wrong turn then has to battle down a narrow street.  In the evening Marta calls round for us along with her Couchsurfing guests Sarah from Australia and Romulo from Brazil.  We head to “La Estaka” because Couchsurfer Siobhan from New Zealand works there.  It is one of the most expensive restaurants in town so we have a drink and share a starter platter between us.  We draw inspiration from Siobhan’s trip through the Middle East and love hearing the other travel stories.

SAN PEDRO DE ATACAMA. HOSTAL CORVATSCH

CH$15,000 (£19) basic room no bathroom

 

WEDNESDAY 18 NOVEMBER – Not happy without a bathroom, when I need the loo in the night I find that there is no water, someone has done a poo in the one with the light and the other is dark.  Worse still we are underneath an en-suite room and they are forever flushing their toilet.  We want to do the walk to Valley of the Moon, according to the map 4km from town.  The hostal has no luggage storage and you have to vacate your room by 11am and Marta is picking us up here at 1pm  The owner says we cannot stay there as water is short in Atacama and they only have enough for departing guests until 11am and new guests from then onwards so we would not be able to even use the toilet if we waited!  She suggests leaving our luggage with the bus company and as we cannot reach Marta on the phone this is our only option.  We walk to Frontera office but have to wait for them to open.  Book our ticket to Calama for 16.15hrs, CH$2500 (2.80) and leave the bags.  Walking out towards the desert it is not clear which track we should take.  We ask a few people and get varying answers from unknown to 15km up the road.  As we started late it is really hot so we just do a short walk to enjoy the scenery then return to the hostal to visit the bathroom before the 11am lockout.  Phone Marta and meet in the square then go back to her place, collecting our bags en route as she says she doesn’t trust Frontera.  Along with Siobhan she is renting a room in a small house.  It is of traditional adobe construction and has big tyres built into the walls as window frames.  Sarah left this morning to hitch to Antofagasta but they have another friend Almenada round.  Early afternoon we go for lunch at “Delicias del Carmen” where we both try some typical Chilean food.  This has been another excellent Couchsurfing experience including meeting very interesting and intrepid young female travellers.  On the bus we travel for about 10 minutes out of town before the driver pulls up and comes round to collect our tickets.  Arrive in the city of Calama after about 1 ½ hours and only have a few minutes to wait before our host Oscar arrives.  He is very enthusiastic to improve his English.  He owns a large building with many of rooms and has a spare one for guests whilst the other rooms are rented out to the miners.  The biggest and largest producing copper mine in the world is nearby and the men come here from all over the country for the work.  Oscar has plans to turn it into a backpacker’s hostel in the future.  Once we are settled in we all go for a walk around town with Oscar.  It is much nicer than we expect and will give us plenty to explore tomorrow.  Stop for some delicious empanadas as supper before returning and watching TV in our room.

CALAMA, COUCHSURFING WITH OSCAR

 

THURSDAY 19 NOVEMBER – We are both happy to have a lie in, there is a bit of noise when the miners leave at 5am but it is quiet after that.  Oscar suggests we join him and his sister, Sibyla, for breakfast so we go out with him to buy fresh bread.  The bread he chooses is actually dry and flattish like a cross between a scone, a bread roll and a slap of pastry.   They eat this with butter and cheese and often have the same in the evening.  Oscar is really keen to practice his English and learn more about travelling so we spend as much time with him as we can.  Explore a bit of the town and book our onward ticket with Pullman to Caldera CH$14,000 (£17.50)..  We didn’t want to do any more long bus journeys but the 12-hour one tomorrow will get us to a coastal resort and we need to see the ocean.  The one thing I am noticing in Chile is that they seem to understand my bad Spanglish much better than the people in the other countries but once they reply I can understand almost nothing.  They speak very quickly, miss the endings of words and often use slang.  Oscar has a number of copied movies in English so we spend part of the afternoon putting them on to our computer.  He invited us up for tea and more of a chat.  Later in the evening his sister arrives with her friend Monika who is doing a European trip in January.  We look through her 17-day itinerary and offer a few suggestions and she seems really pleased but would really have liked us to go and stay with her to chat more.

CALAMA 2, COUCHSURFING WITH OSCAR

 

FRIDAY 20 NOVEMBER – Oscar sees us off in a shared taxi to the bus station, CS$500 (65p) pp.  The bus station appears to have a resident population of dogs, we see over 20 hanging out there.  Stray dogs do seem to be a big problem in Chile but at least they seem placid.  Our bus arrives a little late but is a very comfortable 2-storey one.  We have the panoramic seats at the front but the view is obscured by the “Elqui Bus” sign across the window directly in front of us.  Heading out into the desert the scenery is very similar all the way to Antofagasta.  This is a large industrial city but our first view of the Chilean coast.  Onwards the scenery gradually changes from sandy desert to stony then dirt and finally nice granite rocks.  There are many shrines along the way, often very large ones dedicated to saints.  Just outside Caldera we are stopped for a drug inspection.  A dog comes on board and sniffs our bags then also the luggage compartment.  We comment on what amazing obedient and well trained dogs they are.  A few minutes later we see him running off into the bush with the handler having a hard time getting him to come back to the amusement of everyone on the bus.  In Caldera our Couchsurfing host lives just a block from the bus station and we are soon in Andres home.  He speaks very good English and works with the schools setting up libraries.  His home is directly behind the fishing beach and we have a separate room with 2 sofas and mattresses to sleep on so will be very comfy.  His girlfriend Priscilla returns from doing a big shop in the city of Copiapo, about 1-hour away.  She speaks no English but understands some.  We pop out to pick up some drinks and get a quick orientation walk of the small town.  It is after 10pm by the time we eat and midnight before bed but Andres & Priscilla are then in full flow and head off to party leaving us to retire. 

CALDERA 1, COUCHSURFING WITH ANDRES

 

 

SUNDAY 1 November 2009 – We are keen to visit the main La Paz cemetery for the interesting tombs and sculptures and to see how they celebrate the “day of the dead”.  Along with Adam and Melissa we take a mini bus directly there, Bs2.50 (23p).  The street leading to the cemetery is cordoned off and sellers of flowers and vases are doing a roaring trade.  Almost every niche, grave and mausoleum has fresh flowers and at a few graves the relatives are gathered making the offerings of bread and biscuits.  The food is all flavourless to start with but the thought is that overnight the spirit of the dead person sucks the flavour out of them so that when the relatives return and eat them the next day they are bland.  In the nearby streets we come upon a fish market with many restaurants.  We opt for one in a huge hall packed with locals.  A band arrives to play and after the first song they make a point of asking everyone to welcome the tourists then ask us where we are all from.  There’s a football match on this afternoon and the others want to go but I am not keen so we split up.  It is a local derby with The Strongest v Bolivar.  They take a mini bus to the stadium whilst I head towards Achumani.  I want to cook us all a meal for tonight so get off at the hypermarket to buy the where with all.  Arrive back just after 4pm and prepare a giant size cottage pie and layered desserts in glasses.  The football fans arrive back just before 8pm, the match started an hour later than they expected and Bolivar won 3-0 and they think it was the first leg of a play off to compete in the South American cup next year.  Admission was only Bs 20 (£1.80) and they have all enjoyed the experience.  Ronald arrives shortly after and then I serve dinner which goes down well.

LA PAZ 4, COUCHSURFING WITH RONNIE

 

MONDAY 2 NOVEMBER – We are moving on today but unfortunately the only buses to our destination are night ones.  Spend the day chilling out, watching a movie and cooking up dinner from left overs.  At the bus station we find that all the companies charge the same price however Copacabana, Trans Copacabana and Bolivia have been recommended to us as having a better safety record.  Trans Copacabana is the only one doing our route and we book on the 7.30pm taking the cama (reclining seat) class at Bs90 (£8).  There are only 4 seats left on the bus and the 2 together are right at the back so we have little choice.  Opposite us are a couple from New Zealand so at least we have someone to chat to whilst the Spanish movie blares out.  The first part of the journey is flat good road surface but once we start to climb the mountains we are almost shaken out of our seats going over bumps.  The engine is below us and Bolivian driving style seems to involve dropping into neutral and coasting where possible then kicking back into gear and cranking up the revs so very noisy.  Even worse are the stretches of dirt road with dust coming in and almost choking us.  Needless to say we get very little sleep.

BUS FROM LA PAZ TO SUCRE

 

TUESDAY 3 NOVEMBER – Arrive in Sucre at 8am.  In the bus station there is a warning sign to say they recommend taking the official taxis to town and to beware of “fuked” policemen – luckily we know it was meant to say fake.  Share a ride with Bruce and Louise and settle into Joy Ride café for a nice breakfast.  Steve & Bruce head off in search of a room and are gone for ages.  When they return they have found nothing, all the accommodation is higher priced and poorer quality than we have been used to.  Together we check out a couple of options and end up settling on The Grand, an attractive colonial house with courtyards but tired rooms and lumpy pillows - not half as tired as we are as we flop on the beds.  Unluckily outside our room window is the next building with a family on their terrace who keep shouting.   After a couple of short naps we give up, change rooms then go for a stroll.  Sucre is a UNESCO site because of the beautiful buildings, all painted white.  They are very attractive but none of them seem exceptional, maybe we are just too tired to enjoy it all.  In the evening Louise & I pop out to get some drinks and food.  Suddenly the city has come to life with the streets heaving with people and buildings attractively lit up.  We pick up a huge pizza and eat it in our room before playing cards.

SUCRE, THE GRAND

Bs 160 (£15) Inc breakfast

 

THURSDAY 5 November – Getting information on bus times is difficult as each travel agent sells tickets for just one company and will only give you their times.   Bruce & Louise know to their cost that many agents charge a high commission; they paid BS140 for their ticket to Sucre through an agent whilst we paid Bs90 at the bus station.  We take a taxi to the bus station.  It pulls up on the main street outside and before we can even open the door we are mobbed by people trying to sell us tickets.  We ask the driver to move into the safety of the bus terminal car park as it is a bit overwhelming.  Once there we have only one person trying to sell us a ticket, for the 10.30am “Trans Villa Imperial” bus at Bs15 (£1.35).  I ask to see the bus and it is a basic coach but the tyres look OK!  Walking around the terminal there are no other buses leaving before 12.00 so we settle on this one.  Being loaded onto the top of the bus is the bottom part of an old coffin with viewing window.  There’s no one in it so we surmise that they re use the same coffin for many people.  This is definitely the local chicken bus but fortunately the chickens go underneath with the baggage.  As people board we have 2 lots who try to claim our seats.  The seat numbers are on our tickets but they also have tickets with the same number – maybe there are many people selling the same bus seats but not co-ordinating information.  We refuse to move on the basis of first in best dressed.  It is 11am by the time there are enough people on board to make it worthwhile setting off.  It is a jolly bus, without air-con we have the windows open, local music blares out and we are entertained first by a salesman with a product like tiger balm and then by various vendors who hop aboard.  It does lots of pickups and drop offs and we are a little concerned when that when people take baggage off and the driver finds a can of opened white paint in the locker.   We get good value for money as our 3-hour journey takes over 4.  Arrive in Potosi at 3.15pm and our baggage has escaped the paint spill.  Potosi is the highest city in the world, 4100m.  It was founded in 1545 when a llama herder was stuck on the mountain Cerro Rico at night, lit a fire and then saw molten silver trickle from the blaze.   Within 20 years Potosi was the richest single source of silver in the world.  The boom came and went and now the city is mining tin.  Finding a room is almost as bad as in Sucre but having found a couple that are too expensive and one that is too basic we settle into Hostel Campania de Jesus with en-suite doubles at BS 110 inc breakfast.  The main attraction here is to do the mine tours but the tours into the real working mines with appalling conditions are not recommended for people with various medical conditions including asthma.  Even today the average life span of someone working in the mines is only 10-years.  Walking the city with Bruce & Louise there are quite a few impressive buildings built during the mining boom.  Rough Guide has recommended El Fogon for good steaks and rightly so.  For Bs38 (£3.40) I get an excellent steak, cooked to perfection, with peppercorn sauce, chips and rice.  Steve’s order comes completely wrapped in foil and is spaghetti with steak, prawns, mushrooms and a creamy sauce.  Walking back to our hostel we get to appreciate the floodlit buildings.  Watch a movie on the laptop to round off the evening.  Nights are obviously cold here as we have 5 very heavy blankets plus a quilt on the bed but we feel brave enough to discard 3 blankets and lighten the load.  We both still struggle to breath in the thin air at this altitude.  With hindsight we should have given Sucre and Potosi a miss and gone straight to Uyuni as the cities themselves were not worth the detour.

POTOSI, HOSTEL CAMPANIA DE JESUS

Bs 110 (£10) Inc breakfast

 

THURSDAY 5 NOVEMBER – Bruce & Louise want to buy some handicrafts in Potosi so have decided to stop on for another night.  We catch the 10am basic bus to Uyuni, Bs 30 (£2.70).  After about 1 hour the tarmac road finishes and we are on dirt and dust.  Our journey takes us across the desert with fantastic scenery.  We travel along the edge of gorges then drop down into them and up the other side.  At one point there is a lorry unable to make the climb out and he ends up backing down to allow us to pass.  The rock formations and colours are amazing as are the many oasis.  A ½ stop for lunch keeps us on track arriving in Uyuni at 4pm.  We half fall for the spiel of one of the touts and check out the Hotel Intel that is part of their package.  Now we need to price the tours to find out if the complete package is a good deal.  Uyuni is a flat desolate outback town but buzzing with tour offices.  We want to do the 1-day tour to the salt pans.  To cut a long story short we decide to take up Laura’s deal until we find she wants Bs300 pp not for us both.  It works out better for us to pay for the hotel at Bs100 (£9) and book the tours with Maria at Brisa Tours for Bs120 (£10.50) pp.  At the Minuteman restaurant within Tonino Hotel we enjoy homemade lemonade, chocolate cake and apple pie and ice cream.  Walk back through the market area where many streets are full of stalls selling all manner of things. 

UYUNI, HOTEL INTI

Bs100 (£9)

 

FRIDAY 6 November – We drop off our laundry, grab some breakfast and arrive at the train station when the ticket office opens at 9am.  We buy tickets on the Expreso Del Sur train to Villazon leaving at 10.40pm, Bs63 (£5.70).  We take our luggage to be stored at Brisa Tours and await the arrival of our 4wd car.  The street is full of cars with most having luggage loaded onto the roof for the 3 day trips.  A car turns the corner and the spare tyre falls off the roof and begins bouncing down the street, luckily no harm is done.   At the last minute another tour company merges with ours (common practice here) so we have Swiss couple Pius and Margaret for company.  Our driver Richard is accompanied by his wife, (the cook), and son.  First stop is the famous train graveyard on the outskirts of town.  Dozens of rusty engines line the track and make an amazing sight and photo opportunity.  Our guide speaks no English but we do catch another guide telling his group about Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid coming through this way on a train.  Our next stop is back in town as a couple on a 4-day tour need to join us for the first day, Rob & Rachel cousins from Ireland.  It is quite a drive out to the salt pan and we learn that Pius and Margaret have been on the road for 3-years cycling, originally from Switzerland to Japan and then from Mexico down to here.  They are in their 60’s and camp most nights. Along with loads of other tour cars we stop at the village of Colchani where artists have made things from the salt ranging from small souvenirs to life sized llama statues.  We see a demonstration of how the women each pack up to 1000 bags of table salt per day by hand sealing the bags with a basic gas burner.  We arrive at the “Salinas de Uyuni”, the biggest salt flats in the world and an incredible sight very much like a huge frozen lake.   The flat white surface stretches into the distance enabling you to do trick shots with the cameras as there is nothing for perspective.   Unfortunately our old camera only has a very small screen which makes it difficult to see properly but we have fun trying.  Nearby Hotel De Sal has just about everything made out of salt blocks, the building, the furniture, bases for the beds plus carvings.  There’s even a small salt paddling pool outside.  Driving for over an hour we reach “Fish Island”, an amazing sight rearing up in the middle of the flats.  It is a protected site so you have to pay Bs15 (£1.35) admission in order to do the hike over the island.  Surround it are many salt and rock tables and chairs and each tour group commandeers one.  Richard tells us to do the hike whilst they prepare lunch.  The island is volcanic and covered in huge cactus.  Climbing to the top we get superb views of the island and surroundings.   After a late lunch most of the 1 day tours return to Uyuni but we have to drop Rob and Rachel at Tunupa volcano which they will climb tomorrow morning.  For about 1-hour we drive over the flats and as we get closer have fine views inside the cone of the volcano with many colours.  We are dropped at an area with flamingos and llamas whilst the others are taken to their basic accommodation for the night.  A final stop on the way back is at some bubbling cold pools.  It is 6pm when we get back to town and Bruce & Louise are at Brisa Tours waiting for us.  They are staying at Inti Hotel and are booking the 1-day tour with Maria following our recommendation.  Together we go for a Minuteman Pizza, then return to play cards with them.   At 10pm we are at the station checking our bags in.  The train has similar, but slightly less comfortable, seats to the coaches and we settle in for a long night.  There is a man directly in front of me who snores like a pig and extremely loudly.  We have no chance of sleeping.

TRAIN FROM UYUNI TO VILLAZON

 

SATURDAY 7 NOVEMBER – The train stops a couple of times en-route and at Tupiza the snorer gets off giving us chance for a couple of hours of snatched naps.  Arrive in Villazon around 7am.  Turning right out of the station it is about a 20 minute walk to the border and over the bridge to ARGENTINA.  Leaving Bolivia is just a quick stamp but entering Argentina is quick for the entry stamp (no paperwork) but then a long wait in line for a thorough baggage search.  We see a sign 5121km to Ushuaia, the most southern part of the country; we are going there but cheating a bit and doing it as part of our Antarctica cruise.  Although we are still the same longitude as Bolivia we put our clocks forward 1-hour (3 hours behind GMT) to take into account that the capital Buenos Aires is on the east coast.  Currency is the peso, approx AR$ 6 = £1.  We have been chatting to an Israeli couple behind us and agree to share a taxi to the bus station.  Once there I pick up money from a nearby ATM and Steve checks out the bus times.  Most people go straight on to the big city of Salta but I think we have done enough travelling this last few days so suggest we just make the 3-hour journey to Humahuaca, AR$30 (£5).  Our bus doesn’t leave until 11.15am so we go to a nearby café.  Four of the people from our train are there and not happy.  They have just had one of their day packs stolen in the bus station.  Their luggage was all piled on a bench with the 2 lads watching it.  One of them was jostled from behind, turned around to see what was happening and when he turned back a bag was gone.   Loading our bags on the bus we learn there is an additional charge per bag seemingly - AR$1 for the locals and up to AR$6 for ignorant tourists!  We travel for about 1-hour then pull over for customs and immigration.  Everyone has to leave the bus with belongings, collect luggage then line up for inspection.  The women in a separate line to have their bags searched by women.   Finally reach our destination around 2pm and are the only ones to get off.  We know prices are going to be higher in Argentina but it is going to take some adjustment as the first rooms we check out are over £20 and nothing special.   We drop lucky when someone sends us to the campground.  They are in the process of renovating it but have some simple rooms.  A half done up one with bathroom and cold shower comes in at AR$50 (£9) and there are hot showers in the campsite block.  We both feel better after showering and donning clean clothes, sufficiently so that we set out to explore the town.  The most prominent feature is the “Independence Monument” up a hill where along with a fine sculpture we get great views of the multi colour hills behind the town.  The town is very sleepy with cobble stone streets and easy to get around but without any other outstanding features.  At this stage we are ready to have a few days rest but to do this we either want to be in a really interesting place or have nice accommodation so will continue the search tomorrow.    

HUMAHUACA, CAMPGROUND ROOM

AR$50 (£10)

 

SUNDAY 8 NOVEMBER – Catch the Jama bus to Tilcara, AR$5.5 (96p).  It is the next sizeable town down the track but half the populations of Humahuaca.  Turning off the highway we are in a compact area of dusty streets with a really basic bus station.  Begin our search for rooms as we walk towards the centre finding one possibility en route.  At the tourist office they have great information and mark the map with many places offering en suite rooms below AR$100.  Nearby Pablo gives us a card for his family run hostel and makes it sound good.  I leave Steve guarding the bags whilst I climb the hill to check it out.  Owner Danny has basic rooms and a couple with en-suite.  I like the one at the top of the building with its own private and secluded terrace even if it is AR10 more than the rest.  At AR$80 (£13) including breakfast it seems perfect and they even have free Internet.  Steve agrees and we settle ourselves in.  Setting out to explore the town we find the central area has stone streets and proper pavements, a tourist orientated market in the main square and numerous bars and restaurants.  Recommended by Danny, El Carmel in the square offers a 2-course lunch for AR$15 (£2.50).  We both have delicious meals and dessert, Steve has meat balls and I have meat cooked in wine.   Explore a bit more of the town then return to our room.   The terrace has a laundry sink so I catch up with the washing.  Late afternoon we return to town and stop by a hamburger stall for a snack.  There’s an ice cream stand next to it so this completes our evening meal.  A big waffle cone with 2 huge scoops of delicious Italian ice cream for AR$3.50 (60p) – bargain.  I can see us being here for a few days as there are lots of places nearby to explore.

TILCARA, LA ALBAHACA HOSTEL www.albahacahostel.com.ar

AR$ 80 (£13) including breakfast.

 

MONDAY 9 NOVEMBER – Well we didn’t quite get the peaceful night we hoped for.  The overflow on the roof tank kept playing up and periodically we could hear the water overflowing then drips of it coming into our room.  At breakfast Danny says he will get it fixed.  We walk up the hill to visit the ancient fortress of Pukara.  It was discovered just over 100 years ago and much has been reconstructed.  Luckily for us on Monday the archaeological site and museum are free.  Not only do we get to see a number of the buildings including a ceremonial centre and necropolis but the views are stunning. It turns out we are walking round back to front so miss many of the signs, including the one asking you not to go into the tombs – oops just took a photo with Steve inside one!   Tilcara is surrounded by hills half of which are multi colours of red and pink.  At the edge of the site is a botanical garden with many of the cactus found in Argentina.  Return to our terrace for a bit of sunbathing before heading to town for lunch.  Near the bus station we get a tasty 3-course meal for AR$10 (£1.70) and walk it off around the archaeological museum.  Steve says it feels really strange to be walking around without our backpacks and I have to agree.  At sunset we sit out on our terrace enjoying a drop of local wine, palatable but not great at AR$5 (85p) for a 1 litre carton.  Accompanied by crackers, cheese, tomatoes and crisps it is just like being back in the motorhome.  Around 7pm Louise & Bruce arrive.  They are very happy to take the other en-suite room here and join us for drinks and nibbles. 

TILCARA 2, LA ALBAHACA

 

TUESDAY 10 NOVEMBER – Louise makes it down to breakfast but Bruce prefers his sleep.  Steve & I head off to catch a bus to Purmamarca, AR$3 (50p).  This village is famous for the “Cerro Siete Colores” (hills of seven colours) and even approaching it we can see exactly why.  In fact seven is an understatement as the main hills are grey, purple and dark turquoise blue whilst the uplifted rocks amongst them are many shades of pink and orange.  We climb the hills and walk around the beautiful rocks, not only interesting for the colours but also the shapes.  It is quite a small area so takes less than 1-hour for us to explore.  Take the return bus to Maimara, AR$2 (35p).  This village is famous for the cemetery and this is where we alight.  It is interesting in that it is built into a hillside but not really worth the stop.  There is supposed to be a natural bridge here and we find the sign on the main road but then many tracks lead off with no further signs so we give up.  Return to Tilcara in a shared taxi then to our room for a siesta.  Bruce & Louise come round for a happy hour.  Danny is organising a BBQ for his guests, AR$20 (£3.30) but it doesn’t kick off until 9pm.  By that time we have all been having a few pre dinner drinks so are a very merry crowd.  The food is lettuce and tomato salad, various sausages, ribs and huge chunks of meat.  Amongst the guests are Americans, Germans, Argentineans and Spanish all with the common interest of travel so it is not surprising that it is midnight by the time we finish eating and chatting. 

TILCARA 3, LA ALBAHACA

SUNDAY 11 October – Last night Sara told us how to get out to the Lambayeque museum so we take a taxi, PS10 (£2.20) directly there.  Now we realise that we went right past it on the bus yesterday and had we know this we could have got off and stayed in Lambayeque overnight.  The museum of the royal tombs opens at 9am, PS10 (£2.20) and we are the first in.  The building has been shaped like one of the tombs and inside we see many of the finds from the tombs and replicas of the burial chambers.  It is quite different from anything we have seen before and takes us almost an hour to get around.  Catch a collective PS2.20 (49p) each back to the city.  We keep thinking it is full but the conductor leans out of the window touting for more business until there are 17 of us jammed into the small mini bus.  Pick up our luggage then taxi PS2.50 (55p) to the Linea bus station.  We make it just on time to catch the 11am one to Trujillo, PS14 (£3.10) pp.  I am pretty tired but the landscape is so interesting I don’t want to miss anything.  It begins with flat desert that then becomes dotted with small grass covered sand dunes.  The villages have obviously appeared due to a water supply as they are surrounded by paddy fields.  Other crops being grown are tobacco, corn and sugar cane.  We’d been told that not all buses are the same quality but so far in Peru they have all been much the same and drivers have been very steady.  Arrive in Trujillo at 2.45pm and pick up another taxi PS10 (£2.20) to take us out to Huanchaco beach resort where Matt recommended Naylamp Hostal.  It is at the northern end of the promenade so should be quieter.  We take a simple room around a courtyard in the back and drop off our bags.  Many locals are at the beach but it is a cold and windy day so they are either sitting in their cars or out walking.  The one thing we have never seen before is the reed canoes that the local fishermen use.  It has a really holiday feel and even has a pier.  We check out a couple more hostals and book into the Ocean for tomorrow.  Their rooms are better than ours, have a TV as well and are cheaper.  Walking back we spot John & Sue in a bar.  They are on an organised day tour and have 20 minutes here so the odds of us spotting them were slim.  We talk to their tour guide and book on for tomorrow.  We eat at Naylamp then settle down for an early night.

HUANCHACO, NAYLAMP

PS50 (£11)

 

Monday 12 Oct. 09 – Trolley our bags along to Ocean Hostal where the extremely friendly owner stores them.  A colectivo (micro bus) costs PS1.5 (33p) to the edge of the city with the ubiquitous stops every few kilometres for the conductor to dash from the bus to a machine to get a card stamped and then back on – seems to be some sort of clocking on system.  Trujillo has some lovely colonial buildings especially surrounding the main square.  We are not sure what is happening there but lots of school groups are there in uniform and with instruments.  Making a quick tour of the highlighted sights doesn’t take too long.  Yes there are some nice buildings and churches but nothing that much different from what we have seen elsewhere.  Call into the Linea office and book our bus ticket to Lima for tomorrow morning leaving at 8.30am on the direct bus, PS35 (£7.70).  They have buses leaving almost every ½ hour in various categories from the economy right up to VIP cama cama which has beds.  We have opted for the cheapest comfortable one and the one the salesperson recommended for tourists.  At Hostal Colonial we pay for our tour, PS25 (£5.50) per person and at 11am board the mini bus.  We head out to the edge of the sandy desert where some temples have been discovered.  The Moche ruins from 400AD to 600AD include Huaca Del Sol, the largest adobe temple in the Americas but its interior has yet to be excavated.  Opposite is Huaca de la Luna with excavations revealing the remains of a town between them.   PS11 (£2.40) gets you into Huaca de la Luna and you must have a guide to go round which is one of the reasons we did a tour.  Evers gives a great explanation of how this ceremonial temple is actually 4 temples one on top of another in the form of an inverse pyramid.  The first temple was the smallest and when the king died the rooms were filled in with adobe stones, a new surrounding wall made outside the existing one and a new temple built on top.  Excavations have shown that this happened 4 times but little survived of the top layer as the desert sand and winds eroded it.  It is easy to see the other layers with magnificent coloured wall carvings.  The whole set up reminds us much of Egypt and although not as impressive it is better than we expected.  Back in the city the tour pauses at Sombrero restaurant for lunch (not included).  It may be a tourist restaurant but most of the diners are Peruvians.  They put on a dance show and also drag some unsuspecting tourists up in “Generation Game” style to try and copy them.  The afternoon tour is to the Chan Chan complex, PS11 (£2.40) for all parts of the site, except the museum is closed on Mondays.  From 1100AD Huaca Arco Iris o Dragon has been excavated and renovated so you can see the rainbow and dragon wall carvings that give it the name.  Out in the desert the Chan Chan palace of Nik An covers a huge area with excavations revealing walls about 1 metre high.  We are escorted round by an additional guide, Toby a dog that is of the same breed that would have been here 1000 years ago – a hairless dog with big pointed ears.  Chan Chan, the capital of the Chimu Empire, is an area of around 20km with numerous palaces yet to be excavated.  The tour ends at Huanchaco beach where we peel off and head to our new room. 

HUANCHACO 2, OCEANO

PS30 (£6.60)

 

TUESDAY 13 October – By 7.15am we are on bus “H”, PS1.20 (27p) which takes us right to the Linea bus station arriving just before 8am.  It is a fancy bus station with free Wi-Fi, and as you board the bus there is a security camera check and finger printing.  You have to put your right “peter pointer” finger into the ink then print it on a plan of the bus seats to show which seat you are in.  The “directo” is a very comfortable bus, fewer seats than normal so more legroom.  Set off at 8.45am heading out into the desert.  Again near towns there are farming areas and in one village we see a side street full of carrots drying out.  There is a 40 minute stop for lunch at a restaurant with reasonably priced meals but we didn’t know about this so have already had a picnic on the bus but manage to fit in an ice cream from the street stall.  In the afternoon we ask the conductor if he can put English subtitles on with the movie so that helps pass the time.  Nearing Lima the scenery is stunning with steep sand hills dropping sharply into the ocean and the road cut into the side of them.  We reach the outskirts of Lima at ¼ to 5 but the traffic is terrible.  The population of the capital city is around 8m with half the people living in poor conditions and this is the area of the city we reach first.  2-hours and about 30km later we reach the city centre bus depot.  A total journey time of 10 hours instead of the 8 ½ quoted.  It is just about dark so we get ourselves into a taxi, PS10 (£2.20) out to the Miraflores suburb where our host lives.  It is less than 8km away but takes the best part of an hour.  Mauricio lives in the “Happy Home”, an old building he leases then sublets rooms.  At the moment he has 3 French people, a Welsh girl and some Americans staying.  He has been really kind and moved out of his en-suite room to give it to us.  It is on the roof top and a bit like a cabin leading onto the roof terrace.  Miraflores is the new suburb of town and very modern compared to the centre.  It is also a very safe area so we walk out to Parque Kennedy and stop for a meal.  There are a few things we want to do here but having seen how busy the traffic is and how cold it is in the city we intend to try and get them all done tomorrow so we can move on.

LIMA, MIRAFLORES, COUCHSURFING WITH MAURICIO

 

WEDNESDAY 14 October – There was a short lull of traffic noise during the night but not for long.  All the vehicles hoot the minute there is a car in front of them.  Road rules definitely don’t apply here but when people cut across in front or cut in there doesn’t seem to be any problem.  You certainly have to drive with a view that anything can happen at the front or the side of you at any time.  We take a bus, PS1.20 (27p) to get near to the city centre then walk.  There are some very elaborate churches and the main square is surrounded by beautiful buildings.  Nearby the San Francisco church has catacombs and a combined ticket, PS10 (£2.20) gets us a tour of the monastery, museum and catacombs where 70,000 people were buried.  The bones have been dug up and placed by type in the shallow graves.  There is a changing of the guard at the Presidential Palace at 11.45 but few people gather to watch it making the Police with riot shields look a bit silly.  The guards have nice uniforms, there’s a band piping the old duty off and new one on but they need a bit more co-ordination with their goose step style marching.   In China town we get a good buffet at the China Salon, PS26 (£5.70) then try to walk it off by cutting back across the city towards the bus depot.  En route we can’t resist ducking into the free bank museum (numismic, archaeological finds, paintings and local wares) and death museum (a fancy coffin plus pictures and paintings of cemeteries).  One of the problems in Peru is that each bus company has a depot in a different part of town so it is really difficult to compare buses and prices.  Cruz Del Sur is known to have one of the best bus companies, and the most expensive, but their depot is easy to get to.  End up booking their coach to Nazca for tomorrow morning, PS66 (£15).  We take a bus out to Miraflores and get off near the beach area.  It surprises us to find we are on a cliff top a hundred or so feet above the ocean.  All along there is a promenade linking various parks.  If it weren’t so cold and windy I guess it would be very pleasant.  One of the parks is to commemorate love with a huge statue of a couple lying down kissing and a long ceramic curving seat with the names of couples.  Further along is a park where people jump off to paraglide, at PS150 (£33) I would be tempted were it not so flipping cold.  Arrive back at the Happy Home just before dark. 

LIMA 2, MIRAFLORES

 

THURSDAY 15 Oct. 09 – Up at 6.30am and take a taxi to the bus station, PS8 (£1.80).  There is not much traffic so we arrive early and manage to change to the 7am bus.  This time we get a hand baggage security check boarding the bus then someone comes round with a video camera!  We can see what we are paying extra for, leg rests, blankets, pillow, meals and internet.  Well the Internet doesn’t work and the leg rests are not so comfortable in the long term and the breakfast of an olive sandwich, a cheese roll and a tart was no great shakes so maybe the cheaper buses are good enough for us.  Heading south we pass many nice looking beach resorts that we a/ wished we had known about and b/ had time to check out.  Arriving in Nazca at 2pm we are immediately assaulted by people at the bus station trying to sell us flights over the famous Nazca lines, accommodation or other tours.  Last night Mauricio phoned up our Couchsurfing host in Nazca to confirm arrangements and Javier volunteered to meet us at the bus station at 2.30pm.  By 3pm there is no sign of him and his mobile phone is switched off.  Later his phone is on but not being answered and by 4pm we figure something is wrong so check into The Walk On Inn.  The rooms are very basic but they are very welcoming and the inn has everything a backpacker needs and more including a small indoor swimming pool.  Walking around Nazca we get lots of people trying to sell us tours or get us into their restaurants but at least they accept our refusals.  Settle on a nice restaurant for our evening meal but even there the Dutch waiter Ronald tries to sell us a flight and tours.  At least he manages to offer us the flight at $46 when everyone is selling it for $50 and the best previous offer was $48pp.  We are ready to book anyway so take him up on the deal for 7am tomorrow.  Catch a street parade of children and floats whilst we are eating our meal.

NAZCA, THE WALK ON INN www.walkoninn.com

PS50 (£11)

 

FRIDAY 16 Oct. 09 – We have had a bad night, having asked for a quiet room at the back of the hostel we find there is a local house beneath our window and they played loud music until after midnight.  Then from 4am onwards we were surrounded by cockerels (or as Natasha would say cockroaches) crowing.  Ronald meets us just before 7am, for our flight over the mysterious Nazca lines, and takes us out to the airport.  When we get there we realise he hasn’t actually booked us onto a flight but is going from desk to desk to get a deal – in fact this is what we should have done ourselves.  Anyway including airport tax we pay PS150 (£33) each and go with Aero Palcazu taking off in a Cessna C206 5-seater plane at 8am.  Our flight takes us over more than a dozen figures and to make sure everyone gets a good view the pilot circles over them clockwise then anti clockwise so steeply that the wing is almost vertical to the ground.  Each was drawn with one continuous line by dragging something over the stones to reveal the lighter sand underneath.  They are an amazing sight and you can clearly see the 110 metres monkey, 46 metres spider, lots of birds and other symbols.  The largest figure we see is the parrot at 200 metres long.  Our flight lasts 30 minutes and I half wish we had done the longer one.  Return to our room until check out time at 12.30.  Take a walk around town intending visiting the museum but it is PS15 (£3.30) pp and we have no idea what it is or if there is info in English so give it a miss.  Pick up one of the “lucky dip” lunch deals at PS6 (£1.35) and get a nice soup, good main meal and drink.  Spend the rest of the afternoon by the swimming pool then in the lounge killing time until our coach departure.   Arriving at the Cial depot we hear our coach will not be leaving at 8pm as it will be late arriving from Lima.  In fact we don’t leave until 9.15pm but at least it is a nice coach much the same as the ones used by Cruz del Sur but at PS100 (£22) rather than PS140 (£32).   It is already dark but we can tell we are making a steep climb with lots of switchbacks and nothing but sheer rock face ahead of us.  It is really slow progress made worse by heavy fog.  The evening meal is cold rice and chicken which we turn down to be given a small bread roll with jam and a coke.  Although the coach set up is similar to that on an aeroplane the food is definitely worse.  Watch a movie then settle down to try to doze.  It is not easy as the bus sways around the bends and we also stop 3 times with the drivers getting out and walking round the coach which is a bit of a worry.

CIAL BUS FROM NAZCA TO CUSCO

 

SATURDAY 17 October – Neither of us gets much sleep so are glad when dawn breaks around 5am and we can enjoy the view.  We are now high up in the Andes but seem to continue climbing or driving along valleys then making another climb over a mountain range.  Many times we are actually above the clouds and it quite spectacular.  Breakfast is a jam roll and coke followed by a couple of movies.  We are more than happy to arrive in Cusco at 1.15pm after our 15-hour journey.  Although we have tried to break the long coach journeys up into smaller stretches in this instance there is no choice.  We hop into a taxi to Ronald’s, our Couchsurfing host.  As we reach the area where he lives the road is closed for a big religious procession.  The taxi driver circles around and can’t seem to find a way through at which point we hear a voice calling out to us in English.  Ronald is chasing us up the street, hops into the taxi and leads us to the nearest place to his home.  We get out and walk and Ronald immediately throws Steve’s heavy rucksack on his back saying it is no trouble for him to carry as he is a porter.  Ronald and his brother Willie both work as tour guides, Willie a recently qualified official one and Ronnie still unofficial.  They share a flat and have a spare bedroom for guests.  They offer us coca tea to help reduce the effects of altitude sickness (3500M) and give us lots of information about the area.  It seems that in Cusco they have packaged 16 tourist sites into one ticket, a great idea but except it costs $45 (£30) whether you do 1 or all of them (and this does not include Machu Picchu which is a further $40 (£27).  However Ronald convinces us it is the way to go in conjunction with bus tours that take us to the sites.  He suggests we have a late nap which we are happy to do and we are so weary and cold that we don’t even bother to undress.  Reckon we must smell pretty rank after our night on the bus but who cares?  Apparently being weary is one of the effects of altitude sickness which often seems like a hangover.  The other thing we have both noticed which isn’t mentioned in the book is that we get loads of crusty dry bogies up our noses!  Early evening they suggest going out for a meal and we are joined by their other Couchsurfing guest Kyle from America.  At the local restaurant we get soup, main course and coffee for PS5 (£1.10) and it is not bad at all.  After a brief walk around the area and a view of the city by night we are ready for bed.

CUSCO, COUCHSURFING WITH RONNIE.

 

SUNDAY 18 OCTOBER – We feel better after a good sleep and a shower and ready to hit the town.  Ronnie & Willie guide us down the hill dropping our laundry off en route.  Arrive in the San Francisco square with a nice church.  Next on the agenda is breakfast up one of the side streets, P2.50 (55p).  It is similar to the lunch and evening menu with full meals so I opt for fresh trout which comes, as always, with rice, a slice of cucumber, one of tomato and a few raw onions.  Included in the price is a bread roll and coffee so we can understand why the lads don’t bother to cook at home.  At the moment I am finding that I want to eat food but only a little and would rather have a very small snack every couple of hours.  I am sure we are eating too much rice and bread but this is so often the tradition.  On our own we are trying to eat fruit and yoghurt.  We want to buy our train tickets to Machu Picchu (you can book on line www.perurail.com) and at the station find we cannot get on the back packer train the day we want so have to delay until Wednesday to go.  The price is $31 (£20) pp each way for the 1-1/2hour journey from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes.  The full journey is from Cusco but that is more expensive and adds another 3-hour to cover a not very interesting part of the line.  Top of the range is the Hiram Bingham class with full silver service dinner at just $500 (£300) return.  Ronnie leads us through the town pointing out interesting places and we are lucky to catch the army ceremony in the main square.  The historical district of Cusco is really nice.  We meet up with Kyle to walk to the bus stop.  I hear a barking dog and the next thing I know it is hanging off my calf.  I shout out and it runs away, Luckily I have trousers on so only have a tiny puncture mark and cover It with hand sanitizer.  Tipon is about ¾ hour bus ride, PS1 (22p) into the country.  It is Sunday so we are going to have a traditional roast dinner and in Tipon this means roast guinea pig.  The delicacy is much cheaper here than in the city and cooked better.  Ronnie & Willie select a restaurant where 1 whole guinea pig, jacket potato, spaghetti and a stuffed pepper costs PS20 (£4.40).  I blank my mind to the fact that we have had them as pets and first try the shoulder of guinea pig.  It is a black meat and very dry so I move onto the leg which is a bit like chicken.  I still think it is way over rated so pass my half over to Steve.  The lads demolish theirs leaving just a small pile of bones on their plates.  Using the jaw bones they then have fun creating funny sculptures; in fact the bird one is really good!  In Tipon there is an archaeological site that is included in our Cusco ticket so the others head back to the city and we take a taxi up to the site, PS8 (£1/75), 20 minutes drive on a dirt road up a steep hill.  It is the only working example of Inca irrigations system and we are impressed at the sight of lots of terraces with water being fed into channels down the terrace and across each field.  The taxi down is only PS5 (£1.10) and the bus back to town PS1 (22p).  This is one of the buses the locals call “bread on bread” as you are packed as tight as a loaf of sliced bread.  We have about ½ walk back to the historic district then kill time on the Internet, PS1 (22p) hour, until the theatre opens.  Again included in our ticket is a cultural show.  It is really not our scene but nice to see the different traditional costumes.  In the interval you are invited to look at the costumes in the museum and it is really funny to notice they are all on models that are taller than me.  I have yet to see anyone round here that even comes to my shoulders.  By the 5^th dance we have had enough and take a taxi back to Ronnie’s. 

CUSCO 2, COUCHSURFING WITH RONNIE

 

MONDAY 19 October – Take a taxi down to “Qorikancha site museum” to begin our tour of the attractions included in the ticket.  It is a very small museum with nothing to hold our attention.  At the “Museum of Popular Art” surprises us as we really like the displays of quirky sculptures.  In the “Museum of contemporary art” we see sculptures made out of bones which is probably where Ronnie & Willie got their guinea pig sculpture idea from.  There’s a separate admission fee of PS10 (£2.20) for the Inka Museum has been recommended to us a here we see trepanned skulls.  These are fractured skulls that have been repaired by way of a hole being made then filled and soldered with gold and silver enabling the person to live.  The museum is within the Admirals Palace and the exhibition takes you through some very nice rooms.  It is lunch time and we head up the hill towards San Blas and come across Toqokatchi restaurant with interesting PS10 (£2.20) and PS15 (£3.30) 2 course menu plus a drink.  It is a very cosy place and we order from each menu with Steve trying Alpaca steak in a creamy rosemary sauce whilst I get a nice trout fillet.  The dearer menu even includes are large glass of wine and we both really enjoy the meal.  Further along Carmen Alto we see “Edilberto Merlda Rodrigueza” studio and find it is a lot of the work that we saw in the popular art museum.   His daughter shows us around and explains her father died 4 months ago but his work represents the Indians with characteristic big hands and feet to show how hard they work.  Return to the main square to meet up with Ronnie as he has booked us on the afternoon City Tour, PS20 (£4.40).  Our guide Carlos does his talk in English and Spanish.  First stop Koricancha, PS10 (£2.20) a most impressive buildings where the Santo Domingo Convent used an existing Inca temple and adapted it to their own. Originally the interior was coated with gold plate and the outside wall topped with a cornice of gold all of which was pilfered by the Spanish.  We are not the only group going round and it is very difficult to hear the talk and to actually see much.  Heading out of town up the hill we arrive at Sacsayhuaman (sounds a bit like sexy woman).  This is the next 3 sites are included in the Cusco ticket.  When Cusco was first built it was in the shape of a Puma and this area was the head.  The fortress edges are in a zig zag shape to show the animal frowning.  Here they unearthed some skulls that showed Inca skills at dentistry with missing teeth replaced by pieces of stone in the poor people and gold or silver in the richer ones.  Not only is it an impressive site but we get stunning views over Cusco.  Qenko is a large limestone outcrop with natural passageways and caves.  Puca Pucara is a lookout area also used for stop over’s by runners.  Tambo Machay is a temple of the waters where the water of youth flows out of a fountain.  The entry path is lined with vendors and it is extremely touristy but fairly interesting although the best of them all for me was Sacsayhuaman.  On the way back to town we stop off at factory outlets with local wares.  This means we head down the hill in the dark to be greeted by the wonderful spectacle of Sacsayhuaman by floodlight. 

CUENCA 3, COUCHSURFING WITH RONNIE

 

TUESDAY 20 October – Today we are doing the Sacred Valley Tour, PS30 (£6.60) so Ronnie & Willie take the taxi down town with us to get us onto the bus and recommend the left hand side for the best views.  We are taking all our baggage with us as one of the stops on the tour is Ollantaytambo and we are getting off there to stay the night.  We retrace our route from yesterday past the ancient sites.  Our first stop is a village craft market where prices are said to be good.  Don’t know about the crafts but the large glass of freshly squeezed orange juice at PS1 (22p) is terrific.  There is also a market in Pisac and we have time to wander around but from the minute we arrive and find they charge PS1 (22p) for the toilet when it is normally half that and double the normal price for empanadas we realise it is just for the tourists. The ruined citadel on the hill is spectacular with a 98 tier Inca terrace running down from it.  You have to walk 2km to see the citadel and it is quite a hike with lots of steps but the view is fantastic.  There is even the Temple of the Sun at the top.  The tour takes us along the valley with a stop for lunch then on to Ollantaytambo.  The bus comes to a halt at roadworks and Carlos our guide announces that we can go no further and must walk the rest of the way.  We have our entire luggage with us so I quickly pack up the stuff we have on board whilst Steve goes out to collect the bags.  Carlos immediately takes a hold of Steve’s heavy rucksack enabling us to carry the rest between us.  Most of the streets are cobbled and a bit slippy as it has been raining.  The main square has been completely dug up as has the last stretch of road to the ruins.  We have to clamber down make shift steps and slip and slide down a muddy slope.  Normally we check out a few hostals but under the circumstances we need to check into one quickly to leave the bags.  At this point I realise I have left my handbag on the bus and it has the site admission tickets in it.  Carlos tells Steve to return to the bus which should be in the same place whilst other people help with our bags.  Luckily we have been given the name of Hostal Kuychi down a cobbled pedestrian street off the square immediately in front of the ruins.  They leave me there with the bags and say to join them at the site as soon as we can.  Luckily the rooms at PS50 (£11) are very pleasant so I explain the handbag problem to the girl and she allows me to pick and room and leave our stuff in and check in later.  I wander back to try and find Steve to no avail so return to the square.  I then see Steve in the distance, race towards him to find that he has returned to where we were dropped off but the coach has moved.  I suggest he goes looking for it whilst I wait at the square until the tour returns.  Next I see Carlos on the hill waving to me, he runs down the terraces and comes out to tell me he could see the bus moving off and has phoned the driver to learn it is now in the main square.  I race after Steve but get stuck behind a funeral procession.  I locate the bus and my bag but have little chance of finding Steve in the maze of side streets.  About ½ hour later he returns to the square, not happy but relieved that we have my bag.  We enter the site and soon catch up with Carlos and our group.  This is another terraced site but almost curved around the edge of the valley.  Many of the nearby rocks have faces in them and it is all really nice.  Carlos fills us in on the talks we missed and we carry on with the group around the agricultural terrace and past various buildings.  Return to our hotel room for a quick shower then wander into town.  We are surprised to see a small monkey wandering freely around the side streets but of course we are at the edge of the jungle now.  Was it not for all the road works it would be really lovely exploring although I think Steve probably saw most of the town earlier.  We have to be up at 4am tomorrow so return for an early night. 

OLLANTAYTAMBO, HOSTAL KUYCHI PUNKU

PS50 (£11)    

200910

THURSDAY 1 OCTOBER 2009 – Catch the 8.45am, $2 (£1.20) bus to Riobamba. The direct road is still closed after the February 2008 eruption of volcano Tungurahua so we skirt Ambato then head south along the “avenue of the volcanoes”.  We get a beautiful view of Volcano Chimborazo, at 6310m the highest one in Ecuador and famous as the furthest point from the centre of the earth due to the Equatorial Ridge.  Fellow passengers are kiwi Scott and his Czech girlfriend.  We share a $1 (60p) cab to the centre of Riobamba.  El VIP café is owned by Couchsurfer Juan who advertises last minute beds.  Immediately ahead of us entering the café are 2 young Polish girls, Gosia and Marwina.  Juan says he may have space for us all and walks us to his house nearby.  The girls are happy with the offered mattresses on the floor and we thank him but say we are a bit too old to sleep on the floor and ask if he can recommend a hostel.  Shyris at $8pppn is OK but the rooms are directly over the street so probably noisy.  In fact so noisy that at the junction we hear a terrific crash when a “Coca Cola” lorry takes the corner too fast and sheds part of its load.  Nearby Hotel Tren Dorado has much nicer rooms surrounding a courtyard in the back, $10 pppn (£6).  Drop the bags and head to the nearby railway station.  The famous “Devils Nose” train journey only leaves on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday and needs booking, $11 (£6.60).  At VIP restaurant we have an excellent lunch, complimentary herbal water and popcorn and the meal of the day cream of carrot soup, chips, rice and beef casserole, strawberry whirl and a glass of cherry juice.  The Polish girls join us for coffee and Juan tells us of a free guitar concert tonight.  Exploring the town we find many nice buildings, churches and squares and a park with fine views.  In the main square we employ a couple of local lads to polish our shoes.  They ask for 25c (15p) a pair and do a great job using their hands to work the polish in.  We chat to them and they assure us they went to school this morning.  They are cute kids and enterprising so we pay them double.  The concert in the “Casa Del Cultura” is supposed to start at 7pm, arriving shortly after there are few people there and it only really fills up at about 7.30pm with more people piling in with plastic chairs during the opening speeches.  Safety first doesn’t come into it as they block the aisles and all available exits with extra seats.  People are called onto stage, given certificates and musicians are introduced and it is really long winded.  Around 8pm 3 guitarists and a singer begin performing.  The guitarists twang away in the background whilst the singing sounds a bit like opera.  By the middle of the second song we take the opportunity to escape following the first person who leaves.

RIOBAMBA, HOTEL TRAIN DORADO

$10PPPN

 

FRIDAY 2 October 2009 – We get up at 5am for the 5.30am $3 (£2.40) buffet breakfast.  Notice as we are leaving that a couple of bread rolls and bananas have fallen into our rucksack!  Arriving at the station at 6am they put on a film show about the building of the Guayaquil to Quito railway. Ecuadorians failed, so in 1895 Americans were called in to engineer what was at that time the “most difficult railway in the world”.  At Sibambe the track entered a valley blocked by an almost perpendicular wall of rock called “The Devils Nose”.  A zigzag was carved out of the rock to allow the train by advancing and backing up to climb the mountain to Alausi.  Today’s journey takes us from Riobamba down the zigzag then back up to Alausi.  Instead of the nice old steam train shown in the picture we get an individual carriage rather like a bus balanced on train wheels.  There is a low platform so it looks very strange.  Leaving at 6.30am we pass through Riobamba suburbs and out into farming country.  It is so interesting; cattle are positioned individually in fields tethered to about 6 foot of rope.  They often break free and many times we must stop for them to move off the track.  Around 8am the train goes down the main street of a town, waits for people to push a parked car off the track and move a few stalls and then pulls up for a toilet stop.  Further on the farming changes to pocket fields of crops and huge areas of fir trees.  There is a lovely section following a small stream through the mountains and here we have to stop as a JCB is clearing part of the track after a landslide.  A short stop in Alausi then we are into the most exciting part of the journey.  There are 2 carriages in use today and we often see the other one higher on the track.  Shunting down the “Devils Nose” is quite a spectacle and after waiting for the other carriage to arrive at the bottom we repeat the process giving all passengers a change to be on the side hanging over the drop.  A few years ago you could sit on the roof of the train but a Japanese tourist fell off and died.  There is a clause on the back of the ticket saying it includes life cover but you can no longer sit on the roof.  Alighting in Alausi at 11.30am we check into Hotel Europa, $24 (£14.50) on the main street.  We are doing rather well fitting into our hoped for $15 - $25 a night room budget and apart from in the remote community Quilotoa have had nice en suite rooms with a double and single bed and often cable TV.  Take a wander round town and up to the huge mosaic covered statue of San Pedro.    In the evening Steve gets the set $4 (£2.40) at the Chinese adjoining the hotel, the main course and coke are great but the tube soup is a bit dodgy even for him.

ALAUSI, HOTEL EUROPA

$24

 

SATURDAY 3 October – Waiting for the bus I see many locals buying hot herbal drinks from a man with a cart.  I tell him I need something for an upset stomach and get a honey based drink with some of the inside of the aloe Vera leaf and lots of other herbs, 50c (30p).  The bus arrives at 7am, $5 (£3) pp for the 4 hour journey.  After a couple of hours the bus pulls up in a small village at the road junction to Guayaquil.   The driver comes through the bus with a long speck and we pick out bus, problem, road, indigenous, Cuenca.  Many people get off and although we ask him to explain slowly we don’t know what is happening so opt to stay onboard with a few other passengers.  At the next village with a minor road turn off to Guayaquil the bus stops and tells us all to get off.  It seems there is a road block ahead and he can go no further.  The passengers that are left get off.  The driver refunds $1.50pp and says we must get a camionetta to the road block, walk through that and keep repeating the process.  We are not too happy and by the time we have got our luggage back we are alone at the road junction with our bags.  I spot a Police car coming from the direction of the road block and in broken Spanish learn that there are many road blocks but they are not dangerous for tourists and we should be able to get through.  Figure we could try and go back to Alausi or Riobamba, on the side road to Guayaquil almost 200km away or carry on.  In fact we have no options as there are no buses or camionetas in sight. Maybe if we had understood the situation and got off at the last junction we would have had more options.  We hitch a ride and along with another lady get into a truck.  The driver insists we sit with him in the cab and she goes in the back.  He speaks broken English, worked in America as a chef for 15 years, and tells us he is going to Cuenca and will get us as far as he can.  We start to see rocks in the road, sometimes the remains of roadblocks but others that have been thrown at cars.  Driver tells us when we see the partial roadblocks and have to slow down we must look out for people hiding nearby as they may try to hi jack the car.  We reach an area with a continuous line of lorries parked at the side of the road but press on further.  Eventually driver stops a car coming towards us to learn there is a complete block a little further ahead.  Our driver says he must turn back and try the coastal road to Cuenca and invites us to join him.  By now we have realised he has been drinking so we decide to take our leave whilst still in one piece although he’s a nice enough guy and refuses our offer of money.  A bus pulls up behind us so we transfer to that to get a mile or two further on.  The blockade is rocks and burning tyres.  Everyone disembarks, walks around the blockade then continues to walk along the road now lined with lorries.  We feel a bit afraid as we don’t really understand what is going on so make haste to stay with the group of walkers.  After walking for a couple of miles and up a hill we get to the end road block where there are lots of protesters.  If this is what we saw on TV a couple of weeks ago it is about the local indios being asked by the government to pay for their water.  They seem happy for us to skirt the side of the roadblock where another bus is waiting.  No idea where it is going but for $1 pp (60p) we are happy to be on it.  It doesn’t get far before protesters and telegraph poles across the road prevent progress.  Think the driver is making the most of the opportunity to shuttle people the short distance as the locals all complain bitterly about the price.  By the time we have got our luggage the other passengers are way ahead of us.  At the end of the blockade the others have piled into a truck but there is no space for us.  We wait for another one and this takes us to the town of El Tambo.  Walking round town we see lots of lorries and a few buses parked at the side of the road.  In theory we could get another camioneta to the next road block but people seem to be saying there are many more blocks and up to 10km to walk between them.  The opinion is that the road will not be passable until at least 5pm on Monday when the government makes an announcement on TV.  There is no sign of the other bus passengers so they may have tried to get further but given our lack of understanding of the situation and comparatively heavy luggage we are wary.  We phone a Couchsurfing friend in Cuenca who says the next stretch is the worst but if we can get through Canar it will be easy however this is the area where we may have a 10km walk.  We check into a Hotel for the night to chew over our options.  Even if you can get through the way we have been doing with short rides and walks we feel like it would be better to start afresh in the morning.  Reckon the road blocks must come and go and maybe the weekend is when they are worst.  At least we haven’t had the experience we saw on TV of a bus being set on fire.  Wander the town and eat at the Chinese.  Try to gather information on the Internet but there doesn’t seem to be any fresh update about our stretch of road.  We buy some fruit at the market and a big bottle of drinking water and return to our comfortable room to watch TV so could be a lot worse off.

LA TAMBO, HOSTAL CHESKY WASY

$9 PPPN

 

SUNDAY 4 October 2009 – We’ve had a very disturbed night, our room has a false ceiling and the family lounge is above us.  They had the TV on loud until 2.30am and again from 6.30am so we move rooms.  Looking at a map we may be able to take the side road out to Ingapirca ruins then continue on that to south of Canar.  Walking the town we see lorries now parked both sides of the road for as far as we can see.  Chat to the Police who say the town is effectively sealed off with road blocks on all exit roads including the one to Ingapirca.  A local taxi driver who speaks English confirms this but says we could do the ride, block, walk, block, ride thing to visit the Ingapirca ruins but certainly won’t get onwards from there.  He agrees there is nothing else to do in town and that would be our best option for a trip out.  However he also agrees that the road blocks are at their worst at the weekend and more may spring up and we could end up stranded in Ingapirca so kick that idea into touch, even though we could actually walk the 9km back.   Late morning the lorry drivers are getting restless and create their own human blockade to stop any movement of traffic or other lorry drivers getting ahead of them.  It seems that occasionally lorries are let through the blockade but then they cannot park as the roadside is full and the other drivers get cross if they appear to be trying to push ahead.   After taking lunch at the local café we walk to find out where the road block is on the road towards Canar.  There are small partial blocks but the main one including many people is about 1 mile out of town but more importantly we see a sign saying 9km to Canar so think we misinterpreted the information about having to walk 10km when in fact that was the total distance so we will give it a go tomorrow.  Settle down to sleep around 8.30pm then awake an hour later when I hear English speaking voices.  When I hear a man’s voice saying “we must have walked f…king miles” I reckon I must investigate.  The people are in the room above us and I figure we could exchange information so I give them a knock.  John is English and his girlfriend Sue from Canada.  They have come from Riobamba today, reckon they have walked around 10km between road blocks as there are many more blocks than yesterday and some with piles of earth.  Comparing notes we decide we will try to get further tomorrow together.

EL TAMBO 2, HOSTAL CHESKY WASY

 

MONDAY 5 October 2009 – We set off together at 7.30am.  Pick up a camioneta in town and ask him to take us as far as he can.  He does exactly what we ask but down dirt roads and finally stops and says we must walk down to a stream, over the bridge then up through the fields to join the PanAm highway.  Not an easy task with all our baggage so we ask him to take us to the PanAm highway even though this is further back, $2 (£1.20) for the ride.  A bus is coming by and takes us further but only for about ¼ mile.  There is a huge road block with telegraph poles, burning tyres and rocks in the road beyond it.  Get out and walk but at least on the road we can trolley our bags along.  In fact we probably walk less than 1km to get beyond the next blockade.  A camioneta pulls up and we explain we are trying to get to Cuenca.  He asks how much we would pay to get there and we offer $5 pp. In the back of his 4wd we set off on a track up in to the mountains.  By asking people coming towards him he manages to navigate a route to take us around the Canar blockages and back onto the PanAm.  After that it is relatively plain sailing as all the blockades have been breached.  He stops at Azogues bus station from where a 50c (30p) ride gets us to Cuenca.  Amazingly we do the whole journey in around 4-hours and cannot believe our luck.  Taxi into town to check out hostels.  By chance Sue & John are on a similar budget to us looking for the same price and standard of accommodation.  We are all happy with the deal of $28 (– 10% for taking 2 rooms) at Casa De Barranco overlooking the river.  It is one of the colonial mansions with lots of character, breakfast is included and we have a room with a proper bath and a nice terrace outside.  There is an Indian curry house nearby so we walk there for lunch.  At this stage John & Sue are struggling to walk far after their long hikes yesterday in flip flops.  The menu looks great but the food is all heavily salted and not great.  With Internet at the hotel we check out our onward options but with flights around $400 to Lima we are reluctant to book.  Around 5pm we meet up with Couchsurfers Diego and Betta.  Betta is from Slovakia and Diego Ecuadorian but has lived and worked in the States so speaks excellent English.  We go to a Columbian restaurant for a snack then they take us for a drive.  There is a great view point south of the city giving us an idea of the size of it.  The centre is a UNESCO site because of all the colonial building and feels quite compact whilst we now understand why it is the 3^rd largest city in Ecuador.  Next we go to the bus station where Diego kindly gathers information for the International bus to Peru.  It is $11 ($6.60) and takes 8-hours but the bus didn’t get through today because of the blockades.  Will try to catch it in a couple of days If the roads are clear, at least there is more to do here if we are stranded!

CUENCA, CASA DEL BARRANCO

$25.20 INC BREAKFAST

 

TUESDAY 6 October – Set out to explore the town with some really nice churches.  The main cathedral is magnificent with lots of roof domes and a statue of Pope John Paul inside to commemorate his visit to the city.  There is a flower market and a clothes market that includes hotel sized kitchen pans etc, stalls manned by the indigenous people in costume.  The Panama Hat museum is here and we learn that they were called that because they were made in Ecuador but shipped up to the people working on the Panama Canal.  The river walk is lovely and there we spot the quirky medical museum, $1 (60p).  Along with lots of old equipment they have medical magazines that you can look at, Steve enjoyed reading the one for the year he was born.  In a cabinet I am fascinated by a 3-month pickled foetus along with the skeleton of an 8-month one and a mummified 5-year old.  Walking back we pass a church closed for renovation and the guard invited us inside where we have no idea how they are going to have it finished in the 1-year available.  Spot a traffic warden taking photographs of the offending cars – now isn’t that a good idea.  In the market Steve has a freshly carved roast pork dinner, $2 (£1.40) with excellent crunchy crackling and tender meat whilst I have a large glass of freshly squeezed juice, 50c (30p).  Meet up with Diego & Betta at 3pm and they take us out to his parent’s weekend house in the country nearby.  It feels much more than 20 minutes from the city as you are out in farming country and at 200m lower the weather is considerably warmer.  His Dad Miguel soon has us set up drinking beers outside.  Diego has made the American game “corn hole” and we have great fun trying to throw corn bags onto a ramp and into a hole.  Of course our combination of ten pin bowling and petanque skills give us the edge.  They drop us back at the hotel and arrange to pick us up along with Sue & John for an evening of cards at their place.  At 7pm we leave and order a pizza en route.  To begin with we play “Hoopla”, an American game that is a sort of combination of charades, Pictionary and a word game where you have to describe the word on a card you have chosen.  It is great fun and lots of laughs.  After eating we learn the card game “Arsehole”, that the others all know.  Neither of us becomes President but we do manage to rank as arsehole and neutrals a number of times.  Diego asks us all to sign his world map.  You have to sign and put the town you come from with an arrow pointing to it.  It is amazing to see just how many visitors they have had from around the world.  We all agree what an excellent evening out it has been with good like minded company and lots of laughs.

CUENCA 2, HOSTAL DEL BARRANCO

 

WEDNESDAY 7 October – At the bus station we buy tickets on the 9am International bus to Mancora in Peru, $11 (£6.60).   It is supposed to take 8-hours and be a through bus but today we have to change at the Ecuadorian customs and wait 1 ½-hours for a second bus meaning we will arrive just as it is getting dark. The journey to the Ecuadorian coast is through more spectacular mountain scenery and we are amazed at the journey as Diego & Betta once cycled the 200km in a day.  At the Ecuadorian customs (3km before the border) we get our exit stamps noting we have been in Ecuador exactly a month.  The next bus arrives but is already packed with people and our allocated seat numbers are in use.  It would appear they have merged buses but we are lucky and do get a seat whilst others have to stand.  Entry into PERU is over a bridge then beyond the border town we reach immigration.  You have to queue up to get your entry papers stamped then go to another line to get your passport stamped and registered.  The currency here is Nuevo Soles with approx 5 = £1.  In Tumbes a few people get off so we all have seats.  Our initial impression of Peru is that it is considerably poorer than Ecuador and in many ways more like Mexico.  Near the border there are many villages of huts.  Our journey takes us along the Pacific coast through lots of fishing villages.  After about 50km we arrive at customs, have to get off the bus and file through a buildings whilst the bus is checked then drives on to meet us at the other end.  Arrive in Mancora just after 6pm.  We want to check out a 2-bedroom bungalow seen on the Internet and hop into a couple of motocyclos (tuk tuks) to get there.  The lads say it is 5-minutes away inland but having gone on a dirt road they reach a big hill they cannot get up and say it is a long walk from there so we pass.  It seems that the main resort town of Mancora, with the PanAm passing through, is a small village dominated by back packing surfers and renowned for all night parties.  South along the coast is a dirt road behind the beach lined with big expensive hotels and a few bungalows.  We try a couple of the bungalows but one is full and the other asks PS200 (£40) per room.  After telling the cyclo boys the kind of price we are looking for they suggest we go to “The Point” near the town.  It is now dark and arriving at Estrella del Mar it is hard to see what we are getting other than fairly simple cabin style rooms but at PS80 (£16) it is affordable.  Pay off the cyclos, PS8 (£1.60) each and check in.  At least this place has a swimming pool and grassy lawns, is near the beach and a short walk to the town centre whereas the beach road was isolated.  Walking together into town we see lots of menu of the day offers P5 (£1).  From this Steve & I pick cervice (marinated fish) for starters then I have fish fillet with rice and Steve fried rice with sea food and the price even includes a fruit juice.  Better still you get 4 huge beers for P10 (£2) so maybe the food and drinks prices will offset the more expensive accommodation.  The restaurants are full of back packing Brits.  We take a wander around town and find lots of rooms at PS40 (£8), the rooms are similar to ours but the places have no gardens and are nearer the area where they have discos.  Mind you our room is not exactly quiet overnight as we realise it has no windows just fly screens so we have background noise of the ocean, the main road and the disco’s and are accompanied by ants in our bed.

MANCORA, ESTRELLA DEL MAR

http://www.mancorahotelestrellafugaz.com/

 

Thursday 8 October 2009 – Compounded by a very firm mattress, mosquitoes buzzing round (at least there is a net) and being cold I have little sleep.  The music goes on until after 4am and before 7am they are watering the grass in front of our bungalow.  We had heard such good reports on Mancora but suspect it was from people who came down and just stayed in the posh hotels further down.  We really like the small town area with shops, bars and restaurants but need to find more suitable accommodation.  When Steve gets up we walk north along the beach and settle on The Sahara Hotel PS110 (£22) night. http://vivamancora.com/saharahotel/index.html we get a nice room overlooking the ocean and a hotel with swimming pool directly behind the beach, gardens, gym, pool, table tennis, internet and breakfast.  We quickly re locate and settle ourselves on the comfy loungers by the pool.  It is hard to get shade here because being near the Equator the sun is almost always directly overhead so we decide on an early beach walk.  We are just about at the end of the northern development and other than a nice new backpackers at the point there are just local houses.  In the afternoon Steve spots a whale out on the horizon.  Late on John & Sue arrive with a bag of beer so we sit and watch the sunset together.  In the village we end up at a local burger bar with freshly made huge burgers and ships and delicious passion fruit juice.  Pick up more beers on the way back and learn another new card game “Yussa”.  We will be sorry to see our new friends go on ahead tomorrow.

MANCURA 2, SAHARA HOTEL

PS110 (£22) INC BREAKFAST

 

FRIDAY 9 October 2009 – It is a lovely sunny morning so after breakfast we make a quick walk to town to book our onward bus.  The direct walk takes us through a very poor but interesting area of house built with all manner of materials.  There are numerous coach companies in Peru and all seem to have quality buses so we go for the cheapest one with the time to suit us.  Spend the rest of the morning by the pool.  We have new neighbours, John from America and his new Internet girlfriend Marie.  They originally had the nice room with Jacuzzi but have opted to move to the basic rooms.  We ask if they would like to join us for our evening in the village.  Begin at the cheap PS5 (£1) restaurant then go to the La Badjadita for deserts.  Recommended in the Rough Guide they sure live up to expectations and we all enjoy it.  During the evening we learn that John’s English wife died 2 years ago and he now has a travel trailer in America and “met” Marie on line and has come over to visit.  It is so nice to see how well they have hit it off.

MANCURA 3, SAHARA HOTEL 2

 

Saturday 10 October – Walking to the bus office we are amazed to find no one around.  Steve heads off to draw some cash and get bread and fruit for the journey.  When a lady appears in the office I realise why it is quiet.  We are booked on the 9.30pm bus not am which we wanted.  The error has risen because the Spanish word manana can mean tomorrow or morning.  They have no other bus going where we want and I end up pleading with her to get our money back.  This eventually works so I race to the next nearest office where they do have a 9.30am bus.  El Dorado charge PS25 (£5) but it arrives a little later at 4pm but at this stage I am just happy to have the tickets.  Steve is happy with the upshot and we board the bus for our long journey.  We are soon out into barren desert area where there are many “nodding donkeys” bringing up oil.  Nearer one of the towns there are lots of paddy fields which is quite a contrast.  In Piura we change buses with a half hour wait.  Arriving in Chiclayo we have arranged to be met by a Couchsurfer.  Carlos speaks little English but his Peace Corps girlfriends Sara is on her way into town and we talk to her on her mobile.  She suggests we go to the same hotel she is staying at and arriving at the Hostal Amigos we are more than happy with our double ensuite room with TV.  Carlos seems to know everyone here and introduces us to another Peace Corps worker Matt who spends ages talking to us.  They are all going out to a birthday party later – and I mean later as it starts at 11pm so unable to spend the evening with us.  We take our evening meal at the nearby “Esquina” corner restaurant and really enjoy my fish fillet and chips.  Being in the centre of town we don’t have the quietest of nights.

CHICLAYO – HOSTAL AMIGOS

PS50 (£11)

SATURDAY 26 SEPTEMBER – At 7am we rendezvous with our shipmates for the ride to the airport.  They have all enjoyed the last 3 days but agree the first 3 were the most interesting.    Our flight leaves early and gets us back into Quito 1.30pm local time.  Pick up a taxi back to Juan’s arriving about 10-minutes before he returns from his round of golf.  We are happy to spend the afternoon sorting our luggage and catching up on the Internet.  We suggest taking Cynthia and Juan out for an evening meal but when he comes back he tells us that we are all going to Cynthia’s for a fondue.  On the way we pick up his friend Carlos and at Cynthia’s her friend Marie is there making it 6 of us.  The first fondue is cheese with bread, salami slices, and apple and mushrooms to dip into it.  For desert there is a delicious fondue with apple, strawberries and a local fruit a bit like an orange coloured cherry tomato but tasting sweet.  Marie tells us she lived in London when she first got married but had big problems.  In Ecuador you can get married at 14 with your parents’ permission and this she had done to a man aged 21.  When she arrived in England complete with baby the social services intervened, split them up and it took quite some time to get matters resolved.  It obviously didn’t deter her though as she is returning this year but alone as she is now separated.  After eating we play the card game 40 taking it in turns to be part of the foursome.  It is a lovely evening and we are amazed how time flies.  Around 1pm Juan drops us at his apartment and takes Carlos home before going back to spend the night with Cynthia.

QUITO 1, BELLAVISA, JUANS

 

SUNDAY 27 SEPTEMBER – Juan said he would be back around 10am so Steve gets up early to watch the Liverpool match that was taped for him last night.  By 11am Juan has not arrived and we realise we may have to revise plans as we were hoping to connect with a bus further south that only leaves once a day at noon.  When Juan returns he is happy for us to stay another night and set out early tomorrow.  We take a taxi, $5.50 to La Floriana burial chambers.  Recently discovered these are an ancient site in the hills above the airport.  Free admission to a small area with these extremely deep round chambers where we see depictions of the 15 people that would have been buried in each sat up in the foetal position.  Also in the chamber there would be pottery and gold.  One of the chambers can be explored by a camera that goes down on a lift and produces images on a screen.  Our guide then takes us into the museum to view the things they found in the chambers.  Unexpectedly very interesting.   We splash out on lunch, 2 bananas to have in bread rolls at a total of 30c (18p).  A taxi, $3.50, takes us to the Case del Cultura to visit the Bank Museum, $2 (£1.20). It begins with the history of the land then the people and culture and includes lots of art so a bit of everything.  Take the tram back to the supermarket near Juan’s and there they are having a tasting day so we get sausages, meat, toffee stuff and ice cream to round off our lunch.  Back for an afternoon nap.   

QUITO 2, BELLAVISA, JUANS

 

MONDAY 28 SEPTEMBER – We are just about ready to leave when Couchsurfer Ian turns up.  He stayed with Juan before going on a jungle trip and is back for an overnighter – we tell him the bed is still warm!  Juan just takes this all on board; he is a brilliant host and really laid back.  Taking a taxi to the southern bus station our driver tells us there is a problem with his brakes and he must put us into another car.  Now Quito is not the kind of place you want to be driving without brakes, too many hills and crazy drivers.  We swap into a regular yellow cab and a few junctions further on he has the car behind flashing and tooting him, turns out he has left the spare keys in the boot.  Anyway we arrive safely at the very modern bus station, buy our tickets and board the coach to Latacunga, $1.90 (£1.20).  The bus leaves at 8.30am but before we have even left the station we have had half a dozen vendors through selling hot and cold food and drinks.  At almost all the stops en route more vendors hop on board and often end up staying on until the next stop.  Steve points out the bag belonging to the lady sat behind me, don’t know what is in it but it keeps moving.  We make rapid progress along the Pan Am highway and get dropped off in the town area of Latacunga.  It is freezing cold so we rug up then walk over the bridge to the main bus station.  This time there are lots of men approaching you asking where you are going?  We figure that in addition to the standard buses with ticket offices there are many others going to the same places and the touts are all trying to get you on theirs.  However there is only 1 bus a day to Quilotoa so we have no choice.  Englishman James was on our bus from Quito, he had planned a day north to some hot springs but that bus wasn’t running so he decided to go south instead.  The Quilotoa bus leaves at 11.30am, $3 (£1.80) and begins a very steep ascent up into the Andes.  Lots of locals hop on and off making progress very slow.  As we get higher up we can see the amazing farming with some incredibly sloping fields of crops.  There are lots of llamas around as well as the usual cattle and some huge pigs that the local lads try to ride.  Entering Quilotoa tourists have to pay $2 (£1.60).  The bus stops by the first hostel but it is not great and the guy wants $20 pp.  We get back on and tell the driver where we want to go and end up at the top of the hill by the lookout.  Here there are quite a few more hostels, all very basic and run by the indigenous people.  Finally at Hostel Pacha Mama we find everything we need, double bed, wood burning stove, bathroom with hot water and all fairly new and nicely decorated.  $10 (£6) pp includes evening meal and breakfast so a good deal.  There is only one bus a day out of Quilotoa and it is the one we came on which returns at 2pm.  James wants to hike down to the lake so has to arrange a private car to leave.  We set out to walk part way around the rim of Lago Quilotoa, a very attractive crater lake.  The full walk takes over 4-hours so we are too late to do it but no matter as I find that with lots of ups and downs I am struggling to breathe.  We are at an altitude of 3800m, the air is thin, and it is extremely windy and very cold.  Return for a late afternoon nap before the 7pm evening meal.  They already have the wood burner going in the dining area and we ask if they can light the one in our room and they say they will after supper.  The two young girls who showed us the room are cousins Blanca aged 16 and Marie 17.  They are very short (as are most Ecuadorians) so it was hard to tell their age.  All the women and girls here wear the traditional costume of a felt pork pie hat, lots of colourful shawls, and below knee length velour skirt with patterns, woollen knee socks and low clumpy heel shoes.  The all have long dark hair with the pony tail covered in fabric and their rosy cheeks must be from all the wind.  Our meal is a nice hot soup with potatoes and a few bits of carrot and pepper followed by rice, chicken and chilled vegetables (that part was not so nice).  We ask about the fire in our room and they say they are out of wood but will put an electric fire in.  There’s a slight problem there as there is no socket in our room.  They check the other rooms to find one with a socket.  Meanwhile they tell us to wait in our room.  About ½ hour later nothing is happening so we go back to the dining room and find them huddled round their fire.  They can’t find the electric fire.  Explain that we really need a fire in our room as my asthma is bad.  Next thing we know they are chopping up wood, bring us a pile of logs and have our room warm and cosy in no time at all.  Luckily we have about 50 heavy wool blankets on the bed as the wood doesn’t last long.  The wind howls all night long and lots of things rattle around outside.

LAKE QUILOTOA

HOSTAL PACHA MAMA $10PP

 

TUESDAY 29 SEPTEMBER – We both manage a reasonable amount of sleep.  Breakfast at 7.30am is fruit followed by a small plate of scrambled egg with tomatoes and a couple of bread rolls.  We’ve pre booked the “camionetta” (truck) that James used yesterday and for $5 (£3) he will take us to the village of Zumbagua where we he says there is a bus every ½ hour to Latacunga.  We are the first ones in so get to sit in the cab whereas the pickups en route have to suffer on the wooden floor in the back.  Arriving at 8.30am it turns out the next bus is not until 10am.  A camionetta leaves at 9am for Latacunga, $2 (£1.60) so we join the poor souls in the back.  It is unbelievably cold and misty and we huddle together.  There is a small bench behind the cab and 4 men sit there whilst the women sit on the floor.  The initial 9 of us swells to 13 until we have to turn people away.  For over 1 ½ hours we bounce along, me with someone’s bags on my feet and a baby’s head resting on my knee.  We must be mad!  In Latacunga we are delighted to find a very comfortable coach for Ambato, $1 (60p), don’t care how long it takes at least we have a nice reclining seat.  On coaches in South America they say that if you are lucky you get one with music playing, if not you get the DVD, not sure what we are but they have both going simultaneously!    A quick change in Ambato to the Banos bus, $1 (60p) arriving in Banos early afternoon.  It is a very inviting town, lots of accommodation at all levels, quiet, friendly and plenty to do in the area.  We are almost spoilt for choice on rooms having been offered a basic one for $6 pp and a luxury American style room at $26 plus all point in between.  Settle at Hotel Casa Blanca with a nice double and single bedded room at $10 (£6) pp including breakfast.  Steve is happy to watch some football on TV whilst I use the free Internet.  It is raining in the afternoon so we have to do something to fill the time!  In the evening we enjoy a stroll around town, check out the large church with pictures depicting the Virgin Mary saving the town from the volcanic eruptions.  Café Good has 2 large beers for $1.80 before 7pm and we slip in just in time.  They have an interesting menu and as there is an English movie on at 7.30pm we decide to eat there as well.  Steve orders the filet mignon at $6 (£4.20) and again gets cold vegetables, reading the menu we now realise that where it says accompanied by salad vegetables this is their take on it.  The movie “Blood Diamond” is difficult to hear and I keep nodding off so we head back to the hotel.  I left some laundry earlier on, at $1 a kilo, and am very surprised to find it all washed, dried and neatly folded – reckon I will only be doing undies by hand from now on.

BANOS, HOTEL CASA BLANCA

$10 PPPN Inc breakfast

 

WEDNESDAY 30 SEPTEMBER – The hotel breakfast is very good, fruit, bread with marmalade or cheese, 1 egg cooked to your liking, a glass of fresh fruit juice and tea or coffee.  We book onto a waterfalls tour, $5 (£3) but at the last minute Danny opposite has to off load us to another tour.  You go off in the “chivas” an open back truck with bench seats running across so a step up from yesterdays rides.  The road to Puyo takes us past the hydro electric dam and then many waterfalls.  The road goes through many rock tunnels and there is a scenic detour past more waterfalls.  At the bridge there is the Ecuadorian take on bungee jumping.  For $10 (£6) you jump off one bridge fastened to the bridge opposite and pretty much just swing until they lower you down to the river.  At Cascada Manto de la Novia there is an optional $1 (60p) cable car trip across the river to get closer to the falls.  It looks really dodgy and is powered by a lorry engine.  A man sits looking out at the cable and engaging gears, clutch and brake to control the car.  I pay up and get into the swinging car to take the plunge and have to laugh at the other end where a lady is waiting to check your ticket to make sure you have paid – now considering we have just come across on the cable car and are still sat in it you would think that was a foregone conclusion.   We stop at a number of other pretty falls and the last one is Cascades de Machay.  You pay $1 (60p) and then walk down a long and steep track through the cloud forest past tiny falls to finally reach a big narrow waterfall at the bottom.  Climbing back out is a bit more of a challenge, don’t know whether it is my asthma, the altitude, humidity or general lack of fitness but I find it quite hard going.  Steve doesn’t have to confess to any problems as he tells me to go ahead at my pace and he will follow!  It is a most enjoyable 3-hour trip and much easier than trying to do it alone.  Late afternoon we set out to get ourselves a massage.  On the way we see a procession with children at the front with banners and flowers.  We are busy snapping away when we see the coffin being carried along behind so quickly put the camera away.  It was a bit misleading as many people in the procession looked happy and were laughing.  There are lots of massage places down the road that leads to the baths.  The expensive places tell you that the cheaper ones use unqualified staff which may be true but we have had a recommendation.  Steve opts for the Chinese massage, $15 (£9) hour and I have the Ayuverda $17 (£11.50) one.  Mine is a mixture of a relaxing massage and some deeper work whilst Steve’s is quite intense.  We really enjoy it and will have them again if the price is right.  Round off the evening at the pizza place opposite our hotel splashing out on their special of an individual 4 slice pizza and coke at $1.50 (£1). 

BANOS 2, HOTEL CASA BLANCA

WEDNESDAY 16 SEPTEMBER – We are up at 5am and Raphael is waiting for us with his taxi at quarter past.  Again driving over the highlands we get rain but it is dry once we reach the canal.  Arriving at 6am we are a little early but know we cannot have missed the zodiac.  Around 6.30am the boat comes into view and anchors in the distance.  We have binoculars but cannot see a zodiac being launched and 15 minutes later it begins to sail off into the distance.  Surely we haven’t missed the boat again!  Raphael is a boat Captain and knows most of the boats and crew and asks if we have the name of anyone he can phone.  We have the number of Williams the guide on board and when he calls him finds out they didn’t receive the message to pick us up but will send a zodiac now.  It arrives at ¼ to 8 and we end up chasing the boat for 45 minutes and catch it up anchored in Bachus Bay.  There are 6 classes of boat in the Galapagos the top being Luxury then Deluxe, first class, tourist superior, tourist and at the bottom economy.  Poseidon is first class and a traditional boat with lots of polished woodwork.  We are welcomed aboard by the Captain, shown our cabin and 10 minutes later sit down to a cooked breakfast.  The boat carries 16 passengers and the lounge/dining area has 4 tables seating 4 so it will be very cosy.  After breakfast the zodiac takes us ashore where we catch up with guide Williams.  He has just returned from a guided walk and says he will take us on it a little later once the 90 passengers from the “Celebrity Xpedition” have left.  In the meantime he tells us a bit about Galapagos National Park rules then suggests we have a snorkel.  On many boats you have to pay $5 day for snorkel and goggles but it is included on this one.  Steve goes out and reports some nice fish but nothing outstanding.  On the walk we pass the remains of a barge used by the Americans during the Second World War when they used the islands as part of the Panama Canal defence.   At an inland lagoon we get our first sighting of marine iguanas, piled one on top of another sunbathing on the beach.  There are also a couple of flamingos.  As soon as we board the ship Diego is waiting with drinks and snacks.   We meet the other passengers, mostly from England.   Return to do our unpacking which takes about 2 minutes.  The cabins are modest with single beds but to a motorhomer more than big enough.  We get a 3-course lunch with water, tea and coffee included.  Shortly after we stop at Baltra to refuel then sail for a couple of hours.  There are 2 decks with sun loungers but it is too hot to stay on the top deck for long.  Chugging along we admire the beautiful blue ocean and passing landscape.  We anchor off from Black Turtle Cove then board 2 zodiacs for a 2-hour trip through the mangroves.  At the start a pelican lands on the back of the other dinghy then flies over and lands on Pete’s cap.  We knew that the Galapagos wildlife was tame and not afraid of humans but didn’t expect that.  Venturing further into the mangrove they cut the engine then begin to paddle.  We see lots of white tipped reef sharks, eagle ray and golden rays and pacific green turtles plus many birds.  It is an amazing experience and the time passes quickly.  On return we again have drinks and snacks waiting.  Williams comes to our room so we can discretely pay him the $1050 agreed for our trip (reduced from $1100 when we missed the boat yesterday).  The normal price for this cruise is $3100 and we would find that hard to justify.  Whilst we are on a very nice boat there is no comparison to this and the big cruise ships and it makes us wonder what the lower classes of boat are like.   

GALAPAGOS 2, GRAN POSEIDON 1

 

Shipmates

UK, Phil & Chris, Matt & Sonia, Pete & Sue, Neal & Helen, G2 & Ann, Holland Arno & Martin, Wim & son

 

THURSDAY 17 SEPTEMBER – It has been a rough crossing to Genovesa.  We are directly above the engines which make it noisy and the ship has rocked all through the night, unfortunately too much to make it pleasant.  At breakfast it seems no one has had any sleep.   The zodiac takes us along the coast to enable us to climb Prince Philip’s steps.  At the top we are in an area with hundreds of “Nazca boobies” nesting.  It is an amazing sight and we snap away using our zoom lens.  This turns out to be a big waste of time as we take off on a walking path and find ourselves within inches of the birds.  They are totally oblivious to our presence and we can see newly born chicks and eggs under the birds.  This is the Galapagos experience we have been waiting for and we find it hard to believe that they are all so tame.  Williams takes us on a walk across the island pointing out the different types of birds and explaining about the land.  Steve spots an unusual bird and Williams identifies it as a dark billed cuckoo, only the second time Williams has seen one in 25 years.  We return to the boat for snacks and the next activity is snorkelling from the dinghy.  Steve does it and reports that he was able to swim with a sea lion playing beside him.  For our mid day meal we have tree tomato mousse as dessert.  Steve is not keen so I eat his portion as well.  Big mistake, once we set off on our afternoon walk at Darwin Bay I begin feeling sick.  So much so that I end up turning back and halfway back to the beach give the birds an unexpected extra feed.  I curl up on the beach with a towel over me to avoid being blessed by the birds and hope that the nearby sea lions don’t come too close.  Once we get back to the ship I go straight to bed for the night and with ear plugs manage to get in a few hours.

GALAPAGOS 3, GRAN POSEIDEN 2

 

FRIDAY 18 SEPTEMBER – I’m still feeling a bit delicate but determined not to miss out so join the pre breakfast dinghy trip to see the penguins in Sullivan Bay by Santiago Island.  Mid morning we go ashore on Santiago, an amazing volcanic island with great lava formations.  Again I have to turn back and this time hitch a left back to the boat on a dingy and just make it in time to dash to the loo.  Steve comes back with photos of the colourful “Sally Lightfoot” crabs, monitors and lizards.  Unfortunately he also arrives back with an upset stomach so we both opt out of lunch.  The afternoon tour is to climb to the volcanic cone of Bartolome for fine views but we are both too weak to even attempt it.  By late afternoon I am feeling considerably better whilst Steve is getting worse.   We set sail for Santa Cruz.  Our evening meal is delayed until 8.30pm as cook couldn’t prepare it whilst we were sailing.  Prior to eating all the crew line up in the lounge in uniform and thank us for being their guests whilst one of our group responds and thanks them for having us.  The majority of passengers do this as an 8 day tour beginning and ending on Saturday from Puerto Ayora.  There’s an option to go ashore after dinner but Steve is still poorly so we decline. 

GALAPAGOS 4, GRAN POSEIDEN 3

SATURDAY 19 APRIL – We have to get up early as everyone else is leaving today.  Heading ashore we drop a few people at hotels in town then set off over the Highlands, rainy as usual.  Stop at a couple of sinkholes to check for birds but there is nothing new.  Today Williams is finishing as guide and once he has escorted his guests to the departure area we are introduced to our new guide Andre.  He come from Belgium, speaks 4 languages and seems very nice.  10 new people arrive, Sabine from Germany, Zack USA, 2 young lands from France and Andy & Vivien, Rob & Helen and newlyweds Ian and Rachel from England.  Before returning to the boat we stop at the tortoise farm.  At once stage almost all the tortoises on the Galapagos had been wiped out but once the National Parks took over they rescued what were left and brought them either to this farm or the Darwin Research Station to breed then reintroduce.  We don wellie boots to walk the muddy paths and are immediately rewarded by seeing one of the giant tortoises.  They are huge, can weigh as much as 4 men and it is possible for them to survive up to 1-year without food or water.  The size is a reflection of their age as they grow approximately 1cm a year so this one is probably 60 or 70 years old.  Further into the farm we see many more and can get really close.  At the end of the tour Andre shows us a couple of old turtle shells and says you can slip inside them for a photo.  Rachel is small and petite and fits in easily so Steve has a go so I can take a fun picture on this his 55^th birthday.  Next stop is to walk inside a huge lava tunnel.  It is quite long and really high and at the entrance we spot a short eared owl.  Finally we make it back to the boat.  We’ve been moved to cabin 7 on the upper deck which should be much quieter.  Our original cabin 2 being known to be the worst on board as you are above the engine room and beside the kitchen so get lots of noise and strange smells.  After lunch we return ashore to visit the Darwin Research Station where we learn a lot more about the giant tortoise and meet “Lonesome George”, the last of his particular species alive.  Before our evening meal we get a proper introduction talk from Andre, safety briefing and info on tomorrow’s itinerary.

GALAPAGOS 5, GRAN POSEIDON 4

UK shipmates Rob & Helen, Ian & Rachel, Andy & Vivian, USA Zack, Germany Sabine, France 2 lads

 

SUNDAY 20 SEPTEMBER – We set sail around 4am and it is notably quieter in our new cabin.  We wake up anchored between North and South Plaza Island off the east coast of Santa Cruz.  On shore we begin a hike on South Plaza and immediately see both water and land iguanas.  There are lots of sea lions and we learn the differences between them and seals even though the sea lions here are the fur seal species!  The landscape is beautiful with a kind of red coloured cactus type grass.  As usual we get close to much of the wildlife and birds.  Return to the ship for a couple of hours sailing.  Andre has brought some DVD’s on board and it is great to watch the BBC one on the Galapagos Island reiterating how each of the animals sustains another such as the small birds that feast on the ticks when the tortoises stand up and the lava lizards that eat the flies off the sea lions.  After lunch we arrive in the bay of Santa Fe, a really pretty spot with beautiful clear turquoise water.  We begin with a snorkelling session from the dinghies and I brave the waters, surprisingly not too cold.  The bay is protected by a lava wall and along this there are lots of fish including yellow tailed surgeons, sergeant majors, and damsel and parrot fish.  There are also sea lions that like to play around you.  From underwater they are so elegant and great fun to watch.  In the middle of the bay we also swim over a large turtle, a really excellent experience.  Later in the afternoon we land on the beach amongst over 100 oblivious sea lions.  They are so entertaining we almost don’t know which to watch.  Lying in heaps you regularly see another try to join the pile by clambering over the top and wiggling their way in.  Pups amble round trying to find Mum and whilst they don’t mind whose milk they suckle the Mums will only allow their own pup to latch on so they suffer many rejections.  A tiny pup is in its last throws of life at the back of the beach and the Galapagos hawks are already standing by.   As a National Park the policy is now to let nature take its course.  We do a short hike up around the island through an attractive forest of opuntia cactus and as usual Steve is happy to encounter many more iguanas.  On the way back to the boat we pass over a shoal of large eagle rays and quite a few turtles.  Probably our best day yet.   Before dinner we have a welcome meeting with all the crew dressed in their whites.  After dinner we watch another episode of the BBC Galapagos.

GALAPAGOS 6, GRAN POSEIDEN 5

 

MONDAY 21 SEPTEMBER – We sail until around 4am and it is a rough crossing with the boat pitching up and down.  Anchored by Espanola Island things calm down.  There are 3 other boats in the bay so Andre tries to time it so we all go ashore at different times.  We land around 8am to begin our 2-mile walk around Suarez Point.  There are lots of fur seals on the beach but the sheer number and size of the marine iguana is the most impressive thing initially.  They are black with yellow blotches and piled up one on top of another as if someone has flung them there.  We’ve heard of the book “Driving over lemons” and here the take on it is “walking over iguana” as in one place they completely cover the path and there are bushes stopping us going around.  The trail takes us past many nesting blue boobies with some going through their courting routine.  We pause to watch the water spray at a blow hole and have many close encounters with waved albatross and their young.   At the top of the cliffs we look down at the rock pools and can see the marine iguana battling to get in and out of the ocean and then climb the steep cliffs.  There are also many species of “Darwin finch” on the island.  Andre is an excellent guide and you never feel rushed or as though you are asking a stupid question.  This week he has his eldest, 10-year old, son Willie with him and next week he will have his youngest on board.  After lunch we re-locate to another part of the island, the beautiful Gardner Bay with a stunning white sandy beach.  Obviously a popular spot on the cruises as there are even more boats anchored up.  You can snorkel from the shore out to a rocky outcrop and Steve enjoys this and sees manta ray and many fish.  I enjoy walking the length of the beach and watching the barking sea lions playing in the surf.  At the far end of the beach turtles are also enjoying a bit of surfing.  At the end of our evening meal the lights are dimmed and the chef appears with something on a tray accompanied by Diego with a lighter.  I suspect it is a baked Alaska but am proved wrong when they head towards Steve singing “Happy Birthday”.  A couple of days late but a very nice touch all the same and a huge cake that can be shared by all.   After watching the final part of the Galapagos series we retire to bed.

GALAPAGOS 7, GRAN POSEIDON 6

 

TUESDAY 22 SEPTEMBER – We’ve been warned to get up early as just before 6am we will be circling “Leon Dormido” (The sleeping lion) rock formation.  We are all up on deck and get a talk from Andre about how the vertical tuff stone formation was formed but seeing a lion shape is stretching things a bit.  Docking on San Cristobal in the Galapagos capital of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno we head off to the Interpretation Centre.  There is an excellent 3d map showing how the islands were formed and lots of interesting history.   The is free time to wander the town so we check out a few hotel options  and decide the best for us is Nelly’s at the edge of the village.  On the 3^rd floor there is a room with twin beds and en suite, a shared kitchen area and huge patio with loungers, table & chairs and hammock.  Negotiate to take 2 nights for $50 (£30) total.  Back at the pier the zodiac arrives with our luggage plus that of the French lads and Sabine who are flying out this morning.  We arrange to meet up with the ships tour at 3pm and meanwhile head up to our new digs.  We have stunning views of the bay and town and with a further 2 mini balconies on our room can see in all directions.  Nearby is a school with a large “Bingley Grammar School” mural which intrigues us as there is a Bingley Grammar School near Keighley.  Will have to check out tomorrow to find out if there is any connection.  After a quick walk through the town, most things closed for siesta, we meet the ship group at 3pm then go by bus to Loberia Beach by the Airport.  The newbies have arrived, a young couple from Israel so for the next leg there are only 8 passengers.  After being driven alongside the airport runway we arrive at a beach with black volcanic rocks and walk along the back of it.  Loberia is a pleasant beach with a small lake behind but at this stage in the trip has nothing we have not already seen.  The itinerary says they have the largest marine iguanas in Galapagos here but we don’t even see one.  It is a wild windy afternoon, the water looks choppy and uninviting so we are happy just to take in the scenery.  Back in town we set off along to find something to eat.  It is just after 5pm and the main restaurants haven’t opened but in the main square the BBQ’s are up and running and Steve has a meal of potatoes with salsa then a mixture of cow’s innards, $3 (£2).   Lots of locals are eating this and even the Police car pulls up and the officer sits inside eating so it must be good?  No so, other than the liver Steve says the rest is rather chewy.  I spot a bakery and my meal is a sausage roll followed by a chocolate topped kind of vanilla slice.  We sit out on our terrace having a drink and admiring the view until just after 6pm when it is dark.  Reflecting on the last week we are both very glad we opted for the full cruise and also please with our choice especially after seeing some of the other yachts.  By 7.30pm we are both really tired and drop off to sleep. 

GALAPAGOS 8, SAN CRISTOBAL, HOSTAL NELLY

$25 (£15) night

 

WEDNESDAY 23 SEPTEMBER – We both have a really good sleep and wake at 6.30am when the streets become a little noisy.  School starts at 7am and most people seem to get up early here.  I take a walk out and buy some cereal, yoghurt and fruit juice so we can take our breakfast on the terrace.  It is interesting that on this island all prices seem to be rounded up to the nearest dollar and even if shown otherwise you never get the residual change.  Walking into town we stop at the school and learn that a group of 15 students from Bingley Grammar were over earlier this year.  Needing the Internet we head for Mocking Bird café and supplement the $1.50 (£1) hour session with coffee and brownies.  Late morning we set out to do the “Cerro Tijeretas” (Frigate bird Hill) walks that begin behind the interpretation centre.  We are alone on the trail and really enjoying the silence.  The track leads us to a lovely lookout point from which we can see “Leon Dormido” in the distance.  There are lots of side trails and I figure if we take them all and keep turning right we will end up back where we started.  On the rocky beach Steve takes a snorkel but the water is so clear anyway that it doesn’t need him in there to tell me there are no fish.  At the top of the next hill and lookout there is a fantastic tall statue of Charles Darwin plus an iguana, sea lion and giant tortoise.  We settle for a snack and drink whilst enjoying the view.  Further on is a large cannon and a sign saying it was put there in 1970 but not why.  We join the seals on the sandy beach and when Steve takes to the water he also has turtles swimming around him.  Sitting down for a quiet read our peace is disturbed by a group of American teenage girls arriving.  They talk loudly and keep using our pet hate phrase of “it was like” so we pack up and leave.  In the evening we walk into town to a pizza place we spotted last night.  They advertise $12 (£7.25) for a family sized pizza and coke.  We are the only customers and place our order for a meat pizza.  A few minutes later we see her taking slices from the one in the display case and preparing to pop it into the microwave.  Explain that we would like a freshly baked one then realise that this involves her husband preparing it, lighting the oven and baking it.  Meanwhile he has nipped out to buy the bottle of coke to go with our meal.  Anyway the pizza comes out of the oven but the base is still very doughy so we have to ask for it cooked longer, after it has been put back in the oven twice more we realise the oven really isn’t hot enough to cook it and settle for it as it is.  We want to take a ferry to Santa Cruz island tomorrow and by visiting a couple of travel agents finally figure out that instead of one large boat it is numerous 20 seaters that  do the run, surprisingly all at 7am.  Trying to get any more information about the boats is difficult and we don’t know which to choose until the girl in the 3^rd office offers us a discount.  Reduced from $30 pp to $26 (£16) she secures our business. 

GALAPAGOS 9, SAN CRISTOBAL 2, HOSTAL NELLY

 

THURSDAY 24 SEPTEMBER – Getting up at 6am we notice that it is raining, the weather pattern here seems to be very early morning rain easing off to drizzle.  Late morning things dry up and you get a couple of nice hours with clear blue sky and sun in the afternoon before the clouds close in.  At the pier there is a bag check for foodstuffs that they don’t want transporting inter island.  This is not the only check as a sea lion is in the middle of the loading ramp and when anyone gets close he tries to push you off.  A man and a boy have just disembarked and cannot come ashore.  Eventually someone walking down from the top entices him to take to the water.  Our boat Costas pulls up and 11 of us board.  It has 3 engines and is very fast, good job too as the thin cushions do not make for a very comfortable ride.  Call in at a small island to hand over gas bottles to a waiting boat and arrive on Santa Cruz in Puerto Ayora about 9.15am.  It is still raining so I settle myself and the bags into a café whilst Steve sets out to find us a room.  He reports back that many of the cheaper places are full up but he wants to show me a room at “The Francis Drake Hotel”.  It is on the main street and from the front looks very nice indeed however the further you walk into the building the more signs of neglect you see.   Walk along a balcony with small dingy rooms (a big hotel is being built next door blocking off all the light) then out to the back where there is a large corner light and airy double room with 2 big windows.  He has bargained the price down from $50 to $30 (£18) and our choice is this or back to Hermanas where we stayed before at $35.  The deciding factor is that this one has satellite TV with movies in English and sport.  Resting on the beds we realise we are close to a school when we hear their break time drums as we did in the last place.  After lunch we set out to do the walk to “Tortuga” Beach.  At the edge of town you enter the National Park where the ranger asks you to sign in for the walk and also explains park rules.  A 2 1/2km cobbled path has been created to take you over the hills and to the other side of the island.  It is a very pleasant walk and we emerge onto Playa Brava, one of the most attractive beaches in the Galapagos.  The ocean here is too rough for swimming and the walk is not over.  Hiking about 1km along the beach we arrive at a rocky headland with lots of very big marine iguanas.  The track takes us along an inlet to what looks like a lake, then through a forest of cactus trees to reach turtle beach.  There are no turtles to be seen but it is a lovely beach for sunbathing with plenty of shade.  The water is pleasantly warm and although it does open out to the ocean at the far end it is calm like a lake.   Making the most of the hot sunny spell we sit and read then set off back once it clouds over.  Hiking out we are amazed by the sheer number of locals walking in, reckon this must be the best place around for them to take a hike.  In the evening we walk down the side street opposite the hotel for our evening meal.  At 6pm the street is cordoned off and the small restaurants spill out into the street with their tables and chairs.  At the Chinese we get really good hot fresh food with most main courses $5 (£3) or less.  I surprise Steve by ordering the fish and vegetables as I am not a veggie person but have almost missed having many this last couple of weeks.  Retire to the room to watch TV.

GALAPAGOS 10, PUERTO AYORA, HOTEL SIR FRANCIS DRAKE

$30 (£18)

 

FRIDAY 25 SEPTEMBER – After the rainy start I nip out to buy cereal for breakfast.  After lunch we take a water taxi, 60c (36p) to the opposite side of the port.  There are a few exclusive hotels here including Finch Bay eco resort which is where the trail leads.  Continuing further we pass some old salt flats and then begin lava rock hopping.  After about ½ hour we reach “Las Grietas” a beautiful mini gorge with water in the bottom.  The top layer is freshwater from the highlands with sea water underneath.  Steve swims to the end but there is a landslide preventing him going further.  A few local lads arrive and entertain us by jumping in from the top.  Stop off for an hour or so on “Playa de las Alemanes” then head for home.  Have really enjoyed our land based hikes but the cruise has to be the highlight of The Galapagos.

GALAPAGOS 11, PUERTO AYORA, HOTEL SIR FRANCIS DRAKE 2

 

200909

TUESDAY 1 SEPTEMBER 2009 – Keith & Sandra always go to the Kilnsey show so we are happy to join them.  Again we get a lovely drive through the Yorkshire countryside.  At Kilnsey we opt for the free car park, don our wellingtons and head to the show.   £7 admission gets you into what seems to be a mixed agricultural, craft and local wares show.  The ground is incredibly muddy and we even see quite a few wellies that have broken up when they got stuck in the mud.  The motorcycle display is pretty good and the fly fishing one is entertaining for a short time.  In the Farmers Market we enjoy sampling many locally produced foods and find them reasonable prices.    Mid afternoon is the famous Crag run where first juniors and then seniors run up Kilnsey Crag and back, the weather is appalling for the junior run and we watch from undercover.  At the nearby Kilnsey trout far we stop for a hot drink then catch the senior race as we are leaving.  Back home Sandra cooks a delicious spaghetti bolognaise, puts a colour on my hair then leaves Steve & I to wallow in the Jacuzzi. 

KEIGHLEY 13, KEITH & SANDRAS

 

WEDNESDAY 2 SEPTEMBER – We reluctantly get up at 8am ready for moving on.  Call in to Prestwich to spend an hour with David.  His trip to Tignes did not work out too well but he is now getting plenty of work doing his silver service waiting.  Arrive in Market Drayton in time to catch Netty & Ian before they set off on their holiday to Portugal.  We are going to stay at their house so I get a quick briefing before they leave.  Call round to Mums as she has just got back from holiday but has a chest infection.  We settle in the lounge to chat but her pupil arrives and we have to leave.  In the evening Bobby does a brilliant job tidying up my laptop and updating some programmes.

MARKET DRAYTON 1

 

THURSDAY 3 SEPTEMBER – It has been a wild and windy night but at least it isn’t raining so I take a walk around town.  Having managed to get all our South America stuff packed into 2 small carryon bags we do an about turn and decide to change one of them for a larger bag and check them in.  In the evening I cook a meal for us plus Bobby, Kat and Nick.  There isn’t really enough of anything for 5 so I end up adding onions to stretch the mash, using hamburgers and also sausages and serving it all with Yorkshire pudding and mushy peas – a kind of toad in the hole meets a pie floater! 

MARKET DRAYTON 2

 

FRIDAY 4 SEPTEMBER – I drive round to Mums and try to help fix her freezer which has a mystery fault of blowing the electric.  Claire’s fridge/freezer has also packed in and when I phone the dealer all is revealed.  Apparently a few years ago when the cost of appliances was escalating they took a decision to replace many metal parts with plastic.  This reduced the price dramatically but also the life span to an average of 5-years.  At least now Mum knows it is not worth spending much money to get hers repaired.  After going shopping we settle into Stafford Court pub for lunch.  Mums friend told us they did a £2.99 3-course meal and it is excellent. There are quite a few choices on the menu and I opt to start with beer battered mushrooms with garlic mayonnaise and Mum has Florida cocktail.  We both enjoy the scampi with excellent home cooked chips and round it off with chocolate sponge and custard.  Apparently they change the menu every 2 weeks.  As Mum says, not worth cooking yourself. 

MARKET DRAYTON 3

 

SATURDAY 5 SEPTEMBER – In Newport we meet up with Paul & Elaine for lunch at The Bridge.  They are busy having an extension built over the garage to create a mini flat for Matthew.  I am still desperate to find a pair of comfortable shoes for our trip and Elaine suggests a place at Telford Retail Park.  Brantano have something that fits the bill although shelving out £55 for a pair of shoes that don’t look great hurts but at least my feet won’t!  The lads are both out for the night so we have a leisurely soak in the bath and a relaxing evening before our big adventure begins.  Have never back packed for 7-months so it will be quite an experience for us both.

MARKET DRAYTON 4

 

SUNDAY 6 SEPTEMBER – Once I have cleaned up at Netty’s we head round to Mum’s.  She is very happy with the way we have cleaned out the car and enjoys us taking her out to Wetherspoons for a Sunday dinner.  They have a great deal, £5.99 for a roast and drink so Steve makes the most of it to enjoy a last draft Guinness.  It almost seems the less you pay for meals in England the better they are as the dinner is terrific and each plate has its own gravy boat.  Probably the best roast potatoes I have had in ages as well.  Return to Netty’s for a last coffee and to change and put our bags in the car.  We are still travelling very light with just a small bag each, the laptop plus a rucksack with our coats in.  Mum drops us at the bus stop and we begin our journey with the 2.10pm bus to Hanley, £2.50.  After an hour’s wait we board the National Express coach to Manchester airport, £6.  For some reason it is not the normal National Express coach and has plusher seats with many in 4’s facing each other.  Not sure where the bus has come from but it is packed and there are hardly any other white people on board.  Manchester airport is like a ghost town.  As Steve’s bag is about 3” too tall for cabin baggage we decide to check mine in as well and fine absolutely no line up at all.  Even at passport control there is no queue and the boarding area is equally quiet.  Apparently it is a combination of it being an evening flight and immediately after the main holiday season.  We board our KLM flight to Amsterdam at the time when it should have left so consequently arrive in HOLLAND a little late.  This doesn’t cause any problem as it is also a quiet airport.  We were a bit cheeky at check in and request a window and an aisle seat in a row of 3 in the hope that no one would take the middle one and the gamble pays off.  It is a great help if Steve can spread his legs out a bit further.  Take off around 11pm.  It is a nice DC10 – seems almost new, with the usual movies on demand so we both enjoy Angels and Demons. 

KLM FLIGHT AMSTERDAM TO BONAIRE

 

MONDAY 7 SEPTEMBER – After just over 7-hours we land at Bonaire airport in the DUTCH ANTILES.  It is 3am, 29C and the heat and humidity hit us as we walk off the plane to the tiny terminal.   A few people are leaving the plane here and others will be joining the onward flight.  We stop for just over 1-hour and I spend the time walking around.  The next leg takes us to Guayaquil in ECUADOR where passengers for Quito are asked to stay on board.  Cleaners come on wearing face masks and ear muffs and tidy round before the new passengers’ board.  Apparently this flight now goes to Quito then back to Bonaire and Amsterdam, a bit of a circular tour.  This time I watch the movie “The Hangover” which is very funny.  It is daylight as we fly over the Andes and the scenery is spectacular with lots of snow capped mountains.  We are due to arrive at 8.30am and descending into Quito it is hard to see where we are going to land between the mountains ranges with the narrow plateau full of buildings.  The airport almost seems to be in the city centre surrounded by houses.  Customs is really easy as we don’t need a visa and the arrival forms we filled in are discarded without a glance.  There is no sign of our luggage on the carousel and when it gets to the stage that there is none coming through we realise there is a problem.  Apparently our luggage has taken an unscheduled stop-over in Amsterdam and will be arriving tomorrow!  It is so rare that we check in bags it is hard to believe this has happened to us. Worse still Steve has chosen to travel in his suit as he needs it for the cruise.   Apparently the bags will be on tomorrow’s flight and until then we are given a comfort pack containing toiletries, a white T-shirt and pair of socks.  Exiting the terminal we are met by Couchsurfing host Juan.  He is from Columbia but now lives and works for a British company in Quito.  His English is excellent and he tells us a few things about the city as we make the short journey to his apartment.  Traffic is bad with everyone pushing their way through; apparently there just isn’t anywhere to build more roads.  Juan has a lovely modern apartment with fine views over the city.  His girlfriend Celia is there along with her 2 month old fluffy puppy.   Juan shows us our separate bedroom and insists on lending Steve some casual trousers and a jacket, we are so lucky to meet nice people.  It is a gorgeous sunny morning so he suggests we make the most of it to take the cable car up the mountains.  Having only met him for about ½ hour it is a credit to the Couchsurfing system that he goes off to work and leaves us in the flat with keys to let ourselves out.  After a quick shower we phone for a taxi.  It isn’t that far to the cable car but takes a while in the traffic but at $5 (£3.50) we don’t mind.  Currency in Ecuador is the US$ (around $1.60 = £1) and they use American banknotes but have their own coins.  It costs $8 (£6) for foreigners to take the return cable car journey.  The views going up are superb but once we reach the top and climb higher it is stunning.  We are now at over 4,000 metres and feeling the effects of the high altitude so have to take it steady.  We bump into fellow Brits Sven and Debbie who now live in Spain but are taking a year out to travel the world.  They have been in Quito for a week so when we get back down we hop on the same bus as them, $1 each, to get back to the new part of the city.  Unfortunately the main museum is closed on Mondays but the big arch in the park is really nice and we manage to get some money from an ATM and a good feel for the place.  It is early afternoon and we are both whacked so catch the local tram back, 25c (15p).  I take a wrong turning walking up the hill to Juan’s which is all we need when we are footsore but we ask directions and arrive back around 3pm.  We both try to sleep but flying plays havoc with my sinus’s so I leave Steve to it and begin my diary.  It starts to get dark here just after 6pm and is completely dark when Juan arrives home at 7pm.  I have trouble dragging Steve out of the pit but if he sleeps too long now he won’t sleep through the night.  I am also weary so we send out for a pizza ($20, £15) and have a huge one delivered with half and half of different toppings.  Juan shows us lots of photos of places we hope to visit but also whets our appetite for his home country of Columbia but as was decided in our original planning we just don’t have time to do everything. 

QUIT0 BELLAVISTA AREA, COUCHSURFING WITH JUAN

 

WEDNESDAY 9 SEPTEMBER – I have a really good night’s sleep getting in 6-hours nonstop, a rare treat for me.  When I get up at 8am I creep to the bathroom to avoid disturbing Juan’s other guest who is asleep on the couch in the lounge.  When she wakes up we get to meet French Cecile and hear about her backpacking around Ecuador and Peru.  She is also doing some work here but has visited many places we want to go to and helps us cross a few off the itinerary and add others.  Head out for the day calling in at a small grocery store/café to pick up drinking yoghurt and bananas for breakfast a steal at 75c (50p).  Hop on the tram to play sardines all the way to the historic district.  We are immediately impressed by the narrow cobbled streets and houses with attractive balconies.  Plaza Grande is just lovely and with a short wait we get on one of the free tours around the Palacio del Gobierno.  We go through security checks, have to wash our hands with antiseptic lotion and don face masks.  Presumably this is to prevent the staff working there picking up our germs.  The tour guide gives out information in Spanish then comes over to us to give us a condensed version in English which is really nice.  There are some fine halls with fancy wooden ceilings, silk walls and nice furniture.  Next we go down a side street to enter the main cathedral through the museum, $1.50 (£1).  We are guided through back rooms to the main cathedral which is very impressive, this leads on to the museum halls with papal gowns and other stuff.  Make our way to Plaza San Francisco and then into the nearby La Compania de Jesus.  This church is famous as the interior is coated with 7 tons of gold, as the guide book says “it borders on opulence gone mad”.  The streets we wander through are all crowded and lined by small shops selling all manner of goods, seemingly quite cheaply.  Pick up a freshly squeezed grapefruit and orange juice, 65c (40p) and it is delicious.  I also can’t resist street sellers with gateaux and pay 75c (50p) for a huge slice but it is a bit dry.  After looking at Plaza Santa Domingo and wandering up the renovated La Ronda we are done.  Pick up a taxi to the airport negotiating the fare down from $7 to $5 (£3.00).  We get a refund on the taxi fare and are very happy to be reunited with our bags.  The padlocks are missing and someone has obviously looked inside but we are told this is common when bags travel without their owners.   The airport taxi service quote us $12 to get back to Bellavista but outside we find one for $5 and return to Juan’s arriving around 3pm.  Juan says he is now on a diet and we should eat up certain foods from his freezer so we enjoy a lasagne.  I am struggling with an almost continuous headache (either altitude sickness or my sinuses from the flight) so I take a nap whilst Steve watches TV.   When Juan arrives home he takes us up on the roof to see the fires around the cable car, glad we went yesterday.  Next I go out shopping with Juan and Cynthia to Megamaxi supermarket.  It is within a modern mall and a huge store with groceries and household goods.  Many products are USA brands but more expensive than in the States. The choice of fresh fruit is amazing and Juan tells me about many of the fruits I do not recognise. 

QUITO 2, JUANS

 

WEDNESDAY 9 AUGUST – Having bought in food we are able to have our normal breakfast.  Spend an hour or so planning our onward trip before setting out to the nearby art museum.  It is a short walk but all uphill to the “Museo fundacio Guayasamin”, the museum of Ecuador’s most famous contemporary artist Oswaldo Guayasamin.  $4, (£2.40) admission allows you to view the 3 separate areas of his work and collections.  Each is in a separate area and when we enter the first area of ancient pottery a girl comes over to give us a personal guide in English and this makes it so much more interesting.  The second exhibition is Oswaldo’s collection of religious art which he used as a base for many of his paintings.  Finally we get to see his works, a bit like Picasso with others having a protest theme.  Further up the hill we get a discount to the combined museum “Capilla del Hombre” Chapel of Man a huge building that Oswaldo died before it was finished.  It looks like a huge cube with a small dome in the middle but once inside opens up to be two floors with a central dome and open area making a great canvas for displays of his work.  We are very impressed especially by an area with an original religious painting then his version of it.  Higher up the hill is the tree of life under which his ashes are buried.  All much more interesting than we expected.  Return home a mid-day as the England match is going to be on TV.  Steve is delighted when they win 5-0.  Unfortunately when Juan returns early to watch Columbia play they don’t fare as well.  Juan gives us lots more info on travelling Ecuador and also truly inspires us to go to Columbia in the future for at least 2 months.  In the evening I cook up the huge “Covina” sea bass.  Cynthia joins us and it turns out really well served with pommes noissettes and salad.  After dinner Juan and Cynthia teach us how to play the card game 40 and we really enjoy it and reluctantly call it a day at 11pm. 

QUITO 3, JUANS

 

THURSDAY 10 SEPTEMBER – We are undecided whether to pre book our Galapagos cruise or do it when we are there so catch a lift into Quito with Juan to check the travel agents.  We first establish that for the airlines low season starts on Tuesday, a saving of $56 (£34) each so that decides our departure date.  As far as the cruises go it seems that most travel agents own 1 or 2 boats and can offer better discounts on these than the others they sell.  After about 3 hours we conclude that the prices of around $1100 (£660) each for 7 nights is still not that cheap and considering the sheer number we have been offered we should be able to get a better deal once there.  Set off of Mitad del Mundo (The middle of the world aka The Equator).  Pick up a tram 25c (15p), and as well as playing sardines we also see the game of chicken.  Too many people try to get on so the doors won’t close but the tram sets off at a rapid speed with the men on the outside clinging on and people shouting at the driver.  We are the next ones in so I hold on tight to a bar in case the men on the outside start to fall and grab me.  Luckily we all arrive safely but we have learnt not to hover near the doors.  During our 1 block walk to the next tram we pass a stall selling lots of food.  For $1 (60p) you get a big bowl full of as many of the items you want.  Steve has a bit of everything and we share it between us and still struggle to get through it all.  Nice and tasty and new stuff to try.  A tram, a bus 15c (10p) and about 1-hour later we arrive at Mitad Del Mundo.   There are two Equator areas.  12- Years ago using GPS the military proved the original to be about 300 years out.   We start at the old area, $2 (£1.40) where we walk past lots of restaurants, one with guinea pig on a spit, and souvenir shops to reach a central 30m high square tower topped by a brass globe.  Each side shows a different direction and from the north and south ends a line runs out showing the Equator.  Signs enable you to stand on this line to take photos with part of you in the Northern Hemisphere and part in the South and this also means a change from spring to autumn.   Next we go to the new area about 300 yards up the road known as Museo Inti-Nan, $3 (£1.80).  An English speaking guide first takes us through replica houses of the local people and explains how they live.  In another area we see genuine shrunken heads and learn all about the process.  After “admiring” the rainforest preserved anacondas and spiders we get to the Equator experiments.  The traditional one with water going down the plughole straight on the Equator and anti and clockwise either side is amazing as she only moves the sink about 6 feet.  We also learn that it is easier to walk a line with your eyes closed on the Equator and to balance an egg on a nail – how handy is that?   To round it off we get our passports stamped at the Equator.  Reckon if we had to pick between the two this is the best museum but both were worth a visit at the price.  Arrive back around 5pm.  Juan has gone back to Columbia to visit family overnight but has left us with the key which is really a sign of how trusting Couchsurfers are. 

QUITO 4, JUANS

 

FRIDAY 11 SEPTEMBER – We have a taxi booked at 11am to take us to Jaime’s place.  He is our next host and lives about 1-hour north of the city centre.  We had agreed the $5 taxi fare when we booked it and are glad we did so as the driver gets lost and goes a roundabout way to get there.  Jaime’s wife Amalfi welcomes us but speaks no English.  Now that we have decided to book our cruise on the Galapagos we need to have cash to pay as most tours won’t accept cards for last minute boarding. Each day we must draw the maximum on our card so toddle off to the nearby bank.   Neither of the 2 banks machines will accept my card but that is not surprising as they show the MasterCard symbols then just the word visa without the symbol.  Having been warned that some South American countries only use MasterCard we have one on standby but not to hand.  Walking back we pass a nice looking hairdressers and I pop in and get my hair cut for $3 (£2).  It must look good because as we leave Steve says “actually it looks OK”, a big compliment considering he doesn’t like my hair short!  Amalfi has cooked us some corn on the cob and mini jacket potatoes for lunch served with cheese and followed by melon and yoghurt.  We learn they have 3 children, an eldest son the same age as Claire living in Sydney and another son and daughter in Ecuador.  Jaime’s arrives home and quickly changes so that his friend can drive us all to the bus station.  Our 2.30pm Esmeraldas coach arrives and we are soon on board with comfy seats that recline a long way and lots of leg room.  The 7-hour journey costs $8 (£4.80) following the rough guideline that coach travels costs about $1 an hour depending on the quality of the bus.  Within minutes we are served a drink of Coke and packet of crackers.  Next a DVD is put on in English so we settle down to watch “The Fighter”.  Just getting into it when the host comes through and changes it to Spanish.  The front cab area of the bus is completely closed off with glass partition and doors and the glass covered by a curtain on the driver’s side.  The driver, second driver and host all sit in the cab whilst we sit behind unable to ascertain why we brake and swerve so often – is this a deliberate ploy to stop all the passengers screaming out?  We chat a little to Jaime, who speaks more English than I do Spanish, but he is soon ready for a sleep after working.  The scenery is spectacular as we make our way through mountain rainforest down towards the coast.  After a couple of hours we stop at a service station where the drivers have a meal and passengers use facilities.  They are selling locally produced “provolone” cheese and Jaime says it is very good.  Another couple of hours later and we make a second stop where there is an ATM I can use.  Once it has gone dark the driver turns the interior lights out so most passengers go to sleep.  Passing through the villages is fascinating as you can see into the lighted homes.  I notice that most villages have an area with pool tables frequented by young lads.  Arriving in the big city of Esmeraldas many passengers alight.   I get up to stretch my legs and notice lots of water under our seat coming through from behind us.  This would not be too bad if our bag wasn’t on the floor.  Inside the bag I have packed the computer with coats either side to protect it further but this has not helped with the water seeping upwards.  We quickly unpack everything, wipe the damp side of the laptop and sit with everything drying on our knees.  Unbeknown to us Jaime has asked the driver to drop us before the end destination of Aticames so we suddenly have a mad scramble to gather our things and get off when the coach stops.  I have a carrier bag with me so pile in as much as I can.  Fortunately we have left much of our stuff at Juan’s and only have 2 small bags with us.  We begin walking down a dirt road and minutes later the “beach bus” pulls up.  20c (12p) takes you anywhere on the circuit and Jaime has us dropped off by their apartment.  Along with 6 other couples they bought it in 2002 and each take turns to have a week from Wednesday to Wednesday enabling them to come down for weekends as well as full week holidays.  Amalfi leads us through the gardens with 2 lovely swimming pools then over to their block where we must climb to the 5^th floor.  The apartment is spacious with 3 en-suite bathrooms, open plan lounge dining and kitchen and small patio.  We take off the dust covers and make up the beds before sitting out.  Amalfi cooks cheese toasties using the provolone and this goes down very well with a beer.  It is a humid warm evening and Jamie tells us we are just 1 block back from the beach.  They have mosquitoes here but considerate ones that only come out between 6pm and 7pm.  Amalfi and Jaime have done quite a lot of travelling; coincidently they stayed with the same hosts as us in San Antonio a month before we arrived.  Tomorrow Jaime will give us lots of tips for our onward journey, another bonus of Couchsurfing as generally we are all travelling on similar budgets.  Around 11pm we head for bed.

COSTA ESMERALDAS, TONSUPA BEACH, N ATICAMES

 

SATURDAY 12 SEPTEMBER – It is very light in the room but the comfy bed and intermittent sleep mean I don’t wake properly until 7.30am.  I hear movement in the apartment so get up to shower but when I go into the lounge no one is around but there are some keys on the table.  Now that I hear noises from neighbouring apartments I am not sure whether Jaime & Amalfi have got up and gone out and left the keys for us or are still in bed and left the keys so we could go out!  No matter, Steve is still in bed anyway so I sit on the balcony looking out to the ocean typing up my diary.  Yes the computer survived the mishap but lesson learnt and in the future I will put the computer padded sleeve into a plastic bag for further protection.  It is a warm but cloudy day and the swimming pool that Amalfi says is very cold can’t be so bad as children are already in it.  Well I was right and I was wrong, Jaime has been out to buy our return tickets whilst Amalfi was still in bed.  We enjoy a breakfast of fresh apple in yoghurt and cheese sandwiches on the balcony.  Next we set out to walk along the beach backed by numerous apartment blocks.  These are almost all owned by people from Quito and used for holidays, few people live here and there are not many conventional hotels.  Many new apartment blocks are being built unfortunately blocking the views of those behind as the new ones are even up to 15 stories high.  On our return walk we settle down to sunbathe.  It is still cloudy but I soon feel the burn, being on the Equator the sun is much stronger.  The water is very warm and nice for swimming.  Walking back we take lunch at a street café near the apartment.  You get soup, a main course and drink for $4 (£2.80) and it is nice and tasty.  In the afternoon Jaime and Amalfi return to the beach whilst Steve & I hang out by the pool before taking a siesta.  There is no water in the apartment and everyone must be in the same boat as we see people showering down by the pool.  In the evening we go for a meal at the nearby hotel as a premature celebration of our 34^th wedding anniversary – it is already the 13^th in England.  Back at the apartment Jaime surprises us by bringing out 4 buns with match candles on top.

PLAYA TONSUPA 2

 

SUNDAY 13 SEPTEMBER – There is still no water in the apartment and Amalfi was going to cook eggs for breakfast so Jaime has arranged for us to go up to Patty’s street café where she will cook breakfast using their eggs.  The local breakfast delicacy is mashed platanos (a kind of vegetable version of the banana) which is rolled into a ball, stuff with grated cheese then deep fried.  Served with scrambled egg it is pretty tasty, $1.50 (90p).  We return to the beach for the morning and enjoy a last swim in the warm sea.  Claire is doing her Windermere swim today but unfortunately we have neither Internet access nor phone reception to keep track.  After a last swim in the pool we return to pack and clean up the apartment.  This morning Jaime noticed that Patty had 4 fresh red snapper and he has ordered them for our lunch.  We get fish soup followed by snapper, rice, platanos and a bit of salad plus a drink for $3.50 (£2.20).     As we have our bags with us we just need to hop on the bus to Aticames to connect with our 3.40pm coach back to Quito.  This time we get a very new coach with air conditioning and an on board toilet.  The downside of the air conditioning is that is takes longer to clear the air first when a baby’s nappy has to be changed then later when someone is sick!  This time we have chance to admire the lowland scenery on route.  There are lots of petroleum pipes, many towns with locals washing in the rivers and chances just to observe local life.  With only 1 stop the coach arrives back at 9.15pm then it is a short taxi ride to Jaime’s.  He is planning to visit his son in Australia next year and delighted that I can help him out with some websites, especially the one with relocation motorhomes at $1 day.  It is around 11pm when we settle into our comfy en-suite bedroom having said good-bye to Jaime as he will have gone to work when we get up tomorrow.

QUITO, JAIME’S

 

MONDAY 14 SEPTEMBER – I left the phone on through the night and am delighted to receive a text to say Claire completed her swim and enjoyed it but was a little disappointed in her time, compared to what I could do it in I am very impressed.  Amalfi cooks us a traditional Columbian dish for breakfast, pastry with cheese in the middle flattened out and fried.  Jaime’s has arranged for his driver from work to pick us up and take us back to Juan’s.  We cannot stay at Jaime’s tonight as his nephew stays with them through the week but we have had a most enjoyable weekend and really enjoyed their hospitality.  Back at Juan’s we drop off our bags then walk back to the big shopping centre to buy sunscreen and goggles for our Galapagos trip.  In the afternoon I colour my hair as my new haircut shows too much mousy and grey hair for my liking.  Juan arrives home followed shortly by Cynthia so we get stuck into playing 40 and then teach them golf.

QUITO 2, JUANS

 

TUESDAY 15 SEPTEMBER – Up at 6am to take a taxi to the airport.  At the Tame offices they try to charge us a higher price than when we made the reservation.  Fortunately we have all the references and get the new low season fare of $359 (£220) each return.  Next we pay $10 (£6) pp, think it is Galapagos landing fee.  Passing through security you have to pause to have your photo taken, so glad I coloured my hair yesterday!  Our 9.30am departure is delayed so using the Wi-Fi at the airport I try negotiate a last minute deal with Galapagos Voyager but must check back when we arrive.   Leaving at 10am we cover the 600 miles due west out to sea to arrive in the GALAPAGOS ISLANDS at 12 o’clock local time.  First we pay $100 (£60) pp National Park fee then proceed through customs.  There are numerous buses waiting to take you on a free ride to the canal which separates the airport island of Baltra from the inhabited island of Santa Cruz.  We’ve already been approached by a hotel guide and agreed to pay him $3 (£1,80) to take us to Puerto Ayora instead of paying 80c (50p) for the ferry then $1.80 (£1.10) for the local bus.  We can immediately see the likeness with the volcanic island of Fuerteventura but the landscape changes in the highlands where we get drizzle.  Arriving in the town the bus guide insists on escorting us to the tour offices, we are not keen on this as he will no doubt be trying to get a commission.  We tell him we will go alone and try to pay him the $6 but he then asks for $16, the cost of a taxi.  Needless to say he gets $6.  There is no message on the Internet and at the agencies we make little progress, there are very few boats leaving today and the price is still well over $1000 (£600) pp even in the lower class boats.  Freddy accosts us leaving a tour office, insists on taking us to a hotel to tell us about a Gap Adventure boat leaving tomorrow for 8 days and he can do 1 night in the hotel + cruise for $1100 (£660).  I have a feeling he is lying about the cabins and that they are bunk beds not doubles so insist on going to the Internet to check it out.  It is bunk beds (albeit with a ¾ bottom bunk) but at the same time we get a message from Galapagos Voyager to say they have agreed the deal we offered but must get to San Cristobel for the departure. We have missed the 2pm regular ferry at $30pp and can only get there by chartering a speedboat at $700 so that’s not an option.  We negotiate further with the Voyager agents and agree that they will pick us up at the Canal tomorrow morning at 6.30am.  A panga (small boat) will be waiting with a person wearing a “Galapagos Voyager” life vest.  We are still paying the higher price but have not got a luxury cruise so are very happy.  Of course now we must stay overnight in Puerto Ayora and in the backstreets secure a nice apartment for $35 (£21).  Off loading our bags we set out to explore and find ourselves in a very attractive tourist town with many artisan shops.  The waterfront is lovely and we catch the show when the fishing boats arrive back.  2 seals, pelicans and a few other birds gather round for scraps and it is very entertaining.  Amongst the birds are a couple of blue footed boobies so we are off to a good start.  Making use of the kitchen in the apartment we brew up some cup a soup to go with our fresh bread, seems like a good idea to eat light in view of the cruise ahead. 

GALAPAGOS 1, PUERTO AYORA, HERMANO APARTMENT

$35 (£21)

200908

 

SATURDAY 1 AUGUST 1 – Richard cooks us a terrific full English breakfast before we leave, you just can’t beat the great British breakfast to set you up for the day.  David is off to France today to Tignes in the Alps where he and Chelsea will be doing silver service waiting at the hotel for 3 weeks.  We call at Mom & Dads to pick up some things then using the Daily Mail I start to phone up the flight companies that guarantee to beat any price.  By doing this I manage to get the airfare we want down to £715 each and book it with Dial-a-flight.  We are flying from Manchester with KLM to Quito (Ecuador) on 6^th September via Amsterdam, and Guayaquil returning from Rio (Brazil) on 2^nd April with Air France via Paris.  Claire calls and suggests we race over to Haworth to the food festival in the park where Natasha is about to go on stage with the famous chef Jean-Christophe Novelli.  There is a huge marquee in the middle of the park with lots of stalls selling home made food both from England and France.  Most things are around £3 a time, lucky for me, as I could have been tempted by dozens of cakes.  It turns out you need tickets to go into the food show but Natasha and her friends are there because they do cookery at school.  Steve & I return home so I can sort out our travel insurance.  This poses a problem as within our 7 months trip we are doing a 20-day cruise to Antarctica and probably 5 –8 days cruise around the Galapagos.  Many companies either won’t cover cruise holidays or charge a higher premium that applies to the whole trip.  Claire returns with the kids and Natasha has a signed book and spoon from Jean-Christophe.  Mid evening we get a surprise phone call to say Mark & Netty are up in Yorkshire and are calling round with Lisa & Mick.  Claire, Steve & the kids are doing a car boot sale tomorrow so they end up getting all the stuff down to see if anyone wants anything before loading up the cars.

KEIGHLEY 10, CLAIRE’S

 

SUNDAY 2 AUGUST – The car boot sale is at Airedale hospital so just after 6am they head off leaving me in bed.  Good job I didn’t want to go as the cars are packed to the gills.  I get a text from Claire before 8am saying she is fed up and never doing it again, she also says her friend Liane has set off on her 2 way channel swim.  I manage to sort out travel insurance with Nationwide for £313.26 per couple including me declaring my pre-existing medical asthma (thought I had better as we are going to be at high altitudes).  The car booters arrive back just before 1pm.  They have sold about half the stuff very cheaply and are reasonably happy with their takings but didn’t enjoy doing it.  The washing machine is playing up and won’t empty and spin.  We manage to restart it a couple of times on the spin cycle but each time it fills up more water then stops.  In the afternoon Steve takes Natasha back over to Haworth for the second part of the festival where her school class is doing a cooking demonstration.  Late afternoon I get called down from upstairs to find the kitchen floor flooded and water pouring out from the washing machine.  Claire has caught the door walking past and it has sprung open.  We take it in turns to hold the door shut whilst collecting water in a bowl and mopping the floor.  At least we can get the clothes out now.  Throughout the day Claire receives photos of Liane doing her swim.  I go on the Internet and find a very interesting web site http://www.dover.uk.com/channeltraffic/ where you can see the ships throughout the world, click on a marker and find out all the details.  In the English Channel it doesn’t show Liane’s support boat but it sure is scary to see how many ships are in the area.  In the evening we get a call from Mom & Dad as Steve is picking them up from their day out coach trip.  Apparently all is not well as Dad collapsed when they were out and had to be taken by ambulance back to the coach.  Steve returns and tells us Dad slept all the way back and doesn’t seem too bad so we will review it all in the morning.  By the time we go to bed we hear that Liane has made the single crossing slightly faster than her previous time and is now heading back.  Daniel & Natasha leave to stay with Daz for the next few days so we are released form child minding duties.

KEIGHLEY 11, CLAIRE’S

 

MONDAY 3 AUGUST – No news from Liane so we are hoping her sister Dee’s phone is out of credit and they have arrived back and gone to bed.  Dad has been to the doctor who thinks the problem is down to the warfarin he takes so he orders blood tests later in the week.  When Claire gets home she tells us Liane finished in around 27-hours.  Inspired by this Steve takes Claire to the lake where Liane trains so that she can put in a few laps in readiness for her Windermere swim next month.

KEIGHLEY 12, CLAIRES

 

TUESDAY 4 AUGUST – The engineer can’t come out to Claire’s washing machine until a week on Friday so I take a couple of loads up to Mom & Dads to do.  In the evening Steve takes Mums car down to Ray’s for an oil change and service and returns with it pronounced in good health and ready for the holiday.

KEIGHLEY 13, CLAIRES

 

WEDNESDAY 5 AUGUST – Last minute shopping, tidying up and Steve mowing the lawn.  Daz calls round to collect the Jack the hamster and Nemo the goldfish and a couple of plants.  Claire goes to Daz’s for tea after work then arrives home with the kids to do a final pack up. 

KEIGHLEY 14, CLAIRES

 

THURSDAY 6 AUGUST – We’re making a leisurely start but I can’t resist making a bit of noise when I get up first.  Leave just after 9am with Claire and the kids following us towards Dover on the A1 (M).  There a bit of a hold up at Tuxford  but we still make good time and even with a second hold up at the services on the M25 we make it to Dover by 3.45pm to park up for our rendezvous with Bev & Norm.  Unfortunately the town is a maze of 1-way streets and although we can see Penchester Street we can’t access it.  In another car park I ask a traffic warden directions and he suggests we walk with him to the other one.  Bev & Norm arrive trundling their small bags looking really well and no different from when we last saw them 3 years ago.  We opt to spend a bit of time at the beach and find a nice pebbly one behind the beachfront flats.  Natasha and Daniel can’t resist having a dip but say it is quite cold.  It now makes us realise the enormity of Liane’s task as we see the constant flow of ferries in and out of the docks nearby.  In town we pick up fish & chips for our tea before driving to the port.  We have booked on the LD lines fast catamaran Norman Spirit that leaves at 7pm (£36 per can and 5 passengers).  It used to do the run from Melbourne to Tasmania so Bev & Norm have probably seen it a number of times in the past.  We depart on time and with speeds up to 60kph make the crossing in just over 1-hour.  Dock in Boulogne-sur-mer FRANCE around 9.15pm (1-hour ahead of BST).  I’ve booked us rooms at a Formula 1 motel and got directions off the Internet so it should be a piece of cake.  Over 1-hour later we are still going round in circles the directions being obviously wrong.  Passing the walled city with the funfair is interesting the 1^st time but by the 3^rd by pass the novelty has worn off.  We consider hiring a taxi to lead us to the motel but can’t find one.  Stop at Dominoes pizza where Claire & I go in for directions.  The girl speaks a little English but writing directions down we can see it is a long way and very complicated.  I am just about to order a pizza for delivery to the motel on the proviso we can follow the van when the manager comes through.  He speaks English, says he is just finishing work and will lead us there.  So off we go following the Dominoes pizza van to an industrial area out of town that we would have had no chance finding alone.  It seems the Internet directions were completely wrong even though I double-check that I keyed in the correct address.  Anyway the Formula 1 motel is straightforward, €36 (£32) for a basic triple room with double bed and single bunk over and a sink.  We have two adjoining ground floor rooms with windows opening to the car park so pass the luggage in that way.  The 2-storey motel is shaped like cross with toilet and shower cabins in the centre, extremely clean (self clean after each use) but a little claustrophobic.  We are all shattered so Steve settles into the bunk over Bev & Norm in one room whilst Daniel goes on and air bed with Claire & Nat in the double bed and me in the bunk in the other.  It is a really hot night and hotter still up top so it takes me ages to get to sleep but at least the others seem to drop off quickly.

BOULOGNE-SUR-MER, FORMULA 1 MOTEL

 

FRIDAY 7 AUGUST- Steve wakes us around 8am and we breakfast on cereal bars. We pass the luggage out through the windows followed by the kids and luckily no one sees us or they would think we were mad.  Of course our directions for leaving Boulogne are no use and we don’t even know exactly where we are!  End up on the right motorway in the wrong direction but after doing a “U” turn things pick up.  That is until we realise we are low on fuel and have to leave the motorway to buy some.  In Le Touquet the first garage has closed the pumps due to a delivery.  End up going down the coast to get fuel then continuing for some way.  Being holiday season there is heavy traffic congestion everywhere.  Re plan on joining the motorway and paying tolls to get some miles behind us.  By lunch time we reach Honfleur having paid €19.50 (£17) in tolls but made good time.  The town is heaving with motorhomes parked up on the north bank of the Seine and tourists on foot and in cars milling round the town.  It is a stunningly beautiful town and well worth the detour to crawl through in traffic.  With no hope of stopping we take a picnic parking spot further along the coast and feast on leftovers.  It is a lovely drive along the coast with fantastic mansions and lots of attractive beach homes.  In one town the main roundabout has a huge dinosaur made from plants.  Rejoin the motorway to get around Caen and onwards to Ploermel where we arrive just after 6pm.  Stop at Le Clerc to pick up some groceries.  The cottage is less than 20 minutes away in Le Bourg Neuf and boy are we happy to arrive.  It looks very small from outside but inside it is bigger and far nice than we had expected.  Downstairs is a large lounge with dining table, a modern kitchen, double bedroom, bathroom with toilet then an outside toilet.  Upstairs a huge bedroom with double bed and bunks and a bathroom.  We are going to be very comfortable here for sure.  In no time at all we are sitting around washing down the French stick, pate and cheese with a nice drop of red wine.  We cook up pizza for tea then settle down for Coronation Street; yes they have satellite TV from England.  At bedtime Natasha hops into the shower and seems to be taking ages.  Suddenly we hear music and go to see what is happening.  We crack up laughing when we see her dancing in the cubicle with coloured lights flashing, water blasting from all angles and music pumping out, wow. 

LE BOURG NEUF

 

SATURDAY 8 AUGUST – We wake to a lovely sunny morning.  Bev & Norm got up early for a walk and are now having breakfast.  It has been really peaceful during the night and we have all slept well.  Have to laugh when Natasha tells us she can hear a “cockroach” going cock-a-doodle-doo.  After a few attempts I manage to take a normal shower without lights and music!  Following our leisurely breakfast Bev, Norm, Steve, Natasha and myself set off for a walk.  Daniel stays behind on the computer whilst Claire is studying for her accountancy exams.   The larger village of Guillers is close by and there we find a bar, restaurant, lovely church with memorials, shop and boulangerie where we buy more fresh bread.  It is a lovely place with a very French feel and not at all touristy.  The village cemetery is interesting with graves topped by small plaques from relatives and friends.  Walking back we notice the motorhome parking area with free dump station.  It is now really hot and sunny so we sit out for our lunch.  Natasha finds some sheers in the garage and has fun using them to dead head the hydrangeas and cut the grass.  Daniel entertains us with a power point presentation song of “She’ll be coming round the mountain” with different words and funny pictures.  For our evening meal we cook up spaghetti bolognaise and sit out in the warm sun to eat. 

LE BOURG NEUF 2

 

SUNDAY 9 AUGUST – Bev & Norm return from their early walk with some French bread.  After eating breakfast on the terrace we make a late start and head for Josselin.  Steve and I get twinges of home sick ness when we see so many motorhomes in the special parking spots.  We walk down towards the river for a view of the really attractive castle.  Everywhere we go there are masses of flowers making the town of old building even prettier.  Climbing the 138 steps to the church tower gives us a fine view into the castle courtyard and a good bit of exercise too.  Just outside Ploermel we settle at Lac au Duc where there is an attractive sandy beach and swimming in the lake.  The kids are soon enjoying themselves in the water.  We reckon almost all the people around us are English speaking but as the afternoon progresses it is the French who arrive.  Bev, Norm & I set out to walk around the lake where you are supposed to be able to see many of the different hydrangeas that grow in this area.  The “Eye witness” guide mentioned “circuit de l’hortensia” around the Lac au Duc 1km (0.5m) northwest of Ploermel.  We have walked for about half an hour and made little progress around the lake before realising that the book isn’t talking about the distance of the walk but the distance from the town!  We double back and spend another hour or so on the lakeshore.  In rural France all the shops are closed on Sundays so using the tinned food I packed we manage to cobble together a chilli con carne and rice supper.  There are lots of DVD’s in the cottage so we pick out a movie to round off the evening.

LE BOURG NEUF 3

 

MONDAY 10 AUGUST – Many shops are closed all day on Mondays so we have to sacrifice the fresh bread for breakfast and make do with cereal.  We get a text from Mom to say Dad is in hospital (they have had to cancel their holidays) but doing OK.  Unfortunately Lisa and family are also away on holiday so she has no one around to help her.  Driving off together Claire and the kids peel off to go to the lake whilst we go on a mini tour.  I have info about a couple of interesting villages but even with a reasonable map we are unable to pick the correct lanes to lead us there and get bad directions when we ask so just enjoy a circular drive.  We’ve found this before in France that smaller junctions often have no signs or just the name of a village that is not shown on our map but at least in a car it is easier than in the motorhome when we often came unstuck, or rather got stuck down narrow streets.  Returning to Ploermel we pick up some better maps at the tourist office and also the town walking trail which guides us past the points of interest.  There a Lidl and Netto in town , neither are as good as the UK versions, where we pick up some basic supplies before heading to the lake.  Today is not quite so busy and we commandeer a picnic table in the grassy area for our lunch.   This morning Daniel & Natasha spent the time in the water park behind the beach, €5 (£4.50) but found it only contained 2 smalls slides as was good for about 1 ½ hours only.  In the afternoon we sit at the beach and the kids are happy in the water but it is cloudy and when a bit of a breeze gets up we leave.  We’ve found a BBQ in the garage so Steve stokes it up and we cook our pork steaks and sausages outside.

LE BOURG NEUF 4

 

TUESDAY 11 AUGUST – For the first time Daniel is the first up.  He is cooking us all a special French breakfast today and wants to walk to the bakery with Bev & Norm to get fresh croissants and pain au chocolate.  Just before we sit down to eat someone pulls up at the derelict cottage next door.  It is an Irish lady who has bought it to do up and live in and she invites us to look around.  The main room is the only one fit for habitation and was obviously the place where someone lived, cooked and slept.  The potential to create something similar to Karen’s is there but there’s a lot of work involved.  After our delicious calorie laden breakfast I set out on a drive with Bev & Norm leaving the others to chill at home.  It is a dull day so not the best for the beach but perfect for exploring the surrounding area.  Armed with the map from the tourist office we easily find the village of Montertelot and park up to explore.  It is on the Nantes Brest canal so we walk the towpath and explore that attractive village.  A little further on is Malestroit and where we arrive at lunchtime.  In typical French style all the shops are closed but the restaurants are doing a roaring trade.  A bigger town this still has many attractive buildings and a nice canal walk.  On our way back we stop in Loyat and walk into the town then out to the head of the lake and return along a boardwalk.  It has been a great day out but there is only so much you can take of pretty villages and old houses! 

LE BOURG NEUF 5

 

WEDNESDAY 12 AUGUST – Awake to a dull morning so make it a late start.  It seems that the days don’t really get going until lunchtime so goodness knows what it would be like in the winter here.  I take Norm & Bev off on another mini circuit beginning with a walk around the nearby town of Mauron.  At the bakery we pick up cakes and Bev gets the local speciality of a sort of firm custard with prunes, eaten in the town square surrounded by flowers it makes a perfect lunch.  I take us on back roads past a wonderful disused abbey then out to the fishing lake near Guillers before heading for home.  When we get back the others have made the most of the hot sunny afternoon to visit the lake.  They arrive back just a few minutes ahead of our friends.  Sandra and Robert are Canadians from Montreal and we met them earlier this year in Mexico and toured together in our motorhomes.  For 2 months they have been visiting friends and borrowing houses in France and at the moment are based in Anger but have called in on the way back from a tour of Normandy.  Robert has bought the nearest French ingredients to make his world famous delicious “pina colada” whilst I have made a curry for our evening meal together.  Time passes quickly as we catch up with their news and hear about their trip in France.  Amazing how small the world is at times.

LE BOURG NEUF 6

 

THURSDAY 13 AUGUST – Tonight Claire and Daniel are catching the ferry to Poole from St Malo (£112) so we head off in that direction to do a bit of sightseeing en route.  We want to stop off in Dinan but even before we get there the traffic builds up.  It is market day, the traffic at a standstill, parking impossible and people even queuing up to get into the market.  It takes about ½ hour to drive through so at least we all get a good look at a small part of the town.  Dinard, on the coast, is much the same but we drop lucky with French style street parking where we have to straddle the kerb and fit between trees and lampposts.  Walking into town we stop for lunch at a very popular “creperie” where we are spoilt for choice with main course and dessert pancakes.  Downhill we reach the beach backed by old-fashioned changing rooms’ then more modern tent like ones on the beach.  After the kids have dipped their toes in the ocean we walk around the adjacent cliffs before returning through the old town.  Heading on to St Malo we stop at the barrage to watch some boats going through the huge locks with the road being lifted up to a 90-degree angle.  Just east of the city at Rothneuf I’ve read about a walk to some carved rocks.  Apparently between 1870 and 1895 a partly paralysed country priest carved about 300 figures into the granite cliffs.    After parking and walking along the cliff top we realise the area is now fenced off and you must turn inland and around to reach a really huge half empty car park and the ticket office.  €2.50 (£2.25) gets us onto a path down the cliff where we are surprised to find many of the sculptures are carved into flat picture scenes on the rock face or on the ground.  Below is a kind of man made long pool and the whole place is quite strange but interesting.  Next we drive along St Malo seafront but find parking impossible and end up at the port area.  It is 6.30pm so we change plan and have our picnic out of the car boot.  Leaving Claire & Daniel to join the Condor ferry waiting area we find parking nearby and walk back to the town.  Steve & I visited before in our motorhome and walked the whole of the ramparts and streets so tonight, with time being a problem; we just walk part of the walls and the town and still find it very impressive.  Natasha makes me laugh at one point when Steve has walked a long way ahead, I point him out in the distance and she says “he’s not a very good sight see-er is he!”  Our journey home is much easier and quicker and takes just over an hour getting us back in daylight.  We all plonk down in the lounge to watch a bit of TV before bed then end up with Steve, Natasha and me in our bed watching the Bill.

LE BOURG NEUF 7

 

FRIDAY 14 AUGUST – As we now know the weather format we have planned a lunch at home in the hope of getting to the beach early afternoon.  With time on our hands we do a bit of washing and tidying around.  Receive a text from Claire to say the ferry left ½ hour late but she has now arrived safely at Daz’s although very tired.  After lunch we drive to Ploermel MacDonald’s to make us of the free wi-fi to book some motels for our onward travel.  We are a little surprised to find that we cannot get anything for tomorrow night in the coastal area or just inland so plump for a room in Rennes at the Etap, €49 (£45) for a double including breakfast.  Natasha is very patient whilst we are working so we are very happy to spend almost 3-hours at the beach with her.  Back home we make use of lots of leftovers for our evening meal.

LE BOURG NEUF 8

 

SATURDAY 15 AUGUST – Just typical, we wake to a dry clear morning and by the time we leave around 9.30am it is a scorcher.  Back to MacDonald’s to book our return ferry then onward to Rennes.  Traffic is terrible backed up on the freeway leading to the ring road.  Arrive at the Etap Hotel where we have pleasant rooms with air-con.  With free wi-fi I am happy for us to have a couple of hours rest.  Late afternoon we drive into Rennes for a good walk around, noting that it is still 32C.  There are a large number of attractive timber buildings and a few nice government ones and churches.  End up in the main square at a creperie for our evening meal.

RENNES, ETAP HOTEL €49 (£44) room Inc breakfast

WEDNESDAY 1 JULY – Margaret goes out early to join friends to yoga and I meet her afterwards for coffee.  The teacher Thelma is a very interesting lady.  She met her Japanese husband at a Buddhist retreat in Scotland and went to live over there.  She is also very well travelled and amazes us with the story of her backpacking trip to Thailand with her baby daughter.  On the Internet I get a surprise message from Bev & Norm to say they are hoping to come over to Europe for the month of August and would love to meet up.  As we are looking after Natasha & Daniel that month it is going to take some organising so I swing into actions thinking up different plans.  It is a lovely afternoon so we sit out in the shade in the garden enjoying the company.

HITCHIN 2

 

THURSDAY 2 JULY – It is a lovely hot day, 25C by 8.30am.  Peter & Margaret takes us out for morning coffee at Luton Hoo Hotel, where the Queen used to stay.  It is a magnificent mansion with lovely gardens.  Set out to explore down to the Rock Garden with Peter following along on his mobility scooter.  Near the waterfall Margaret lives up to their name “Rollason” and takes a rolling tumble onto the grass when she goes over on her ankle.  She seems OK although a little shaken.  Walking back up to the house Peter takes his turn and falls out of the scooter when leaning over too far.  They show us some of the interesting features inside the mansion before we settle into the lounge for coffees.  Rooms here start at £350 so this is our only way of feeling rich without spending much.  The afternoon is spent between sitting in the garden and going on the computer.

HITCHIN 3

 

FRIDAY 3 JULY – We’ve had a great time with Margaret & Peter and it has give us chance to unwind a bit and recharge our batteries after all our dashing around.  We are heading to Wakefield today and Margaret takes us back to Stevenage so we can retrace our steps to London on Green Line, £7pp.   This seems to be the only economical way to get to Wakefield.  For the first time we use Mega Bus, £13pp and they seem fine but instead of taking about 2-hours by car it takes us 8 hours but we arrive safely and Karen & Auntie Pamela meets us at Wooley Edge service station.  Chris is out at a friends leaving do but Sarah is at home and along with boyfriends Mike joins us for a meal at the “Old Mill”.  Chris arrives home late but is still happy to stay up later chatting.

WAKEFIELD 1

 

SATURDAY 4 JULY – Chat to Chris in the morning and decide to book their cottage in France from 8-15 August to coincide with Bev & Norms visit.  It is in Brittany and close to many attractions and sleeps 6 so should be perfect. James has called round for the day so we leave the men watching Rugby whilst Karen and I make a trip round the shops and pick up some food for tonight.  Bob & Denise and her Mum come round for the evening and we get on with them really well.  After eating we play a card game, similar to Uno, and have a really good laugh.

WAKEFIELD 2

 

SUNDAY 5 JULY – By luck Denise & Bob are going to Burnley today to pick up a motorhome they bought on E-bay so we manage to get a lift with them to Keighley.  Settle back into Claire’s.

KEIGHLEY 1

 

MONDAY 6 JULY – We go round to Mom & Dads for the day except that I have to go back to Claire’s for a could of hours in the evening to be with Daniel whilst Claire & Natasha go swimming.

KEIGHLEY 2, MOM & DADS

 

TUESDAY 7 JULY – Mom & Dad drive us back to Claire’s and we stay there whilst I do us lunch.  Dad goes to Ling Studios for breathing exercises in the afternoon and whilst he is there Steve & I potter round town.  I spend the evening on the Internet and book us a hotel for the night we arrive in Boulogne and ferry crossings for us all.

KEIGHLEY 3

 

WEDNESDAY 8 JULY – Last summer we went to Egypt with Arf & Jean and have not seen them since.  They drive over from Sheffield to join us for the day.  Having spent the winter in Morocco in their motorhome we are eager to hear all about the trip and really enjoy their company.

KEIGHLEY 4

 

THURSDAY 9 JULY – David and Donna decide to pop over, David can’t wait for us to deliver the cigs we have bought back from Russia.  They stop for lunch and a chat then drop us at Rod & Nancy’s on their way home.  Their daughter Jenny now runs “The Ling Bob” pub and we meet Nancy there when she arrives back from work.  There is a good menu and the food is delicious and reasonably priced.  Rod & Steve drops us in Riddlesden so that they can go on to play snooker whilst Nancy & I walk to Sharon’s for a natter.  They forget to pick us up and the first we know of this is when Claire phones to check why we are not at bowling for her to pick us up!  She collects us from Sharon’s and we stay at Claire’s until Rod drops Steve home.

KEIGHLEY 5

 

FRIDAY 10 JULY – We are lucky that Claire pops home at lunchtime as she can run us down to Sandra & Keith’s to save us getting wet.  Sandra gives us a tour of their new campervan “Freddie” and it reminds us of Billy in Australia and makes us motor-homesick.  We enjoy a light lunch then spend the afternoon chatting and even sit out for a while when Sandra has a nap.  A guy from Sky comes round to show them how to use their new system and we can now understand why our parents are totally confused by it all.  Shimla Spice were awarded best restaurant in Keighley so we book for 6.30pm and can see why they won.  There is a vast choice on the menu, mainly Pakistani food, and we all seem to make good choices and really enjoy it.  Return to Sandra & Keith’s to chat until late.

KEIGHLEY 6

 

SATURDAY 11 JULY – I go down to Keighley baths to watch Daniels swimming lesson in the morning.  In the evening it is Steve’s turn to go to watch Natasha in a swimming gala at Aireborough.   Natasha’s mind is not really on it as she is going to a friends birthday party and sleepover afterwards so she doesn’t do as well as she might have done.

KEIGHLEY 7

 

SUNDAY 12 JULY – Pop down to Morrisons with Claire and pick up some beef for dinner, think I must have bought part shares in a cow as a small joint costs almost £10!  In the afternoon Steve joins Claire & Natasha going to Shipley swimming baths for another gala.  This time she returns with a bronze medal and was only 2 seconds off getting a huge trophy for being the most improved time in the 4 x 100 metres medley.

KEIGHLEY 8

 

MONDAY 13 JULY – For the first time we set out from Claire’s house on foot – she lives way out of town so you need to car to get to everything.  There’s a bus stop nearby and we buy a K-Day ticket for £3 and this gets us all the way to Leeds.  National Express charge £3 to Manchester and we arrive around 1.30pm and find David parked in the taxi rank waiting for us.  He has had a message to call into the Army office to be measured and weighed and due to the numerous one way streets in the city we get a grand tour before arriving there.  They tell him all the reports have come back fine and the next stage is the medical.  Back at his house we pick up Toby the dog and head over to Heaton Park for a long walk.  In front of the mansion is an unusual “ha ha” wall, designed to keep the cattle from coming onto the lawns whilst being invisible from the house.  Beginning Wednesday Macbeth is being performed in the park using many locations and we see some of the actors rehearsing.  Donna cooks a nice evening meal and we sit in their newly decorated dining room.  They have recently bought a new double bed so we get to stay in their bedroom whilst they use an airbed in the lounge and very comfy we are too.

MANCHESTER – PRESTWICH

 

TUESDAY 14 JULY – David drives us down to Mums with Donna joining us.  There’s a hold up on the M6 and when we get to the trouble spot we see that a caravan has come unhitched and gone up the embankment.  At Mums we chat over lunch then David heads home.  I walk up town to collect my book from WH Smiths.  It should be £19.99 but I ordered it on line for £11.99 and just have to wait a couple of days for it to be delivered to the store.  Now I can get on with doing some reading about South America to decide if we want to go there.  Bobby calls round in the evening, he has done a brilliant job resurrecting my old Acer computer and it now runs as a basic laptop with Windows 2000. 

MARKET DRAYTON 1

 

WEDNESDAY 15 JULY – I run Mum and Pauline up town then visit the library to do Internet dodging the showers on my way back.  Bobby comes round again to join us in the evening.

MARKET DRAYTON 2

 

THURSDAY 16 JULY – Seems we are in for mixed weather for the next week or so meaning I try to time my visits up town between the downpours.  Mum goes out for lunch and it is actually rather nice late morning and we mange to sit out sunbathing for an hour.   I have had a chunk come out of one of my teeth and take up an emergency appointment with the dentist in the afternoon.  I get off lightly as he says the “temporary” stuff he fills it will can sometimes last 10-years so the whole job is a reasonable £20.   Netty & Ian go to visit Bobby in the evening and the operation has gone well although he himself is not feeling too good.

MARKET DRAYTON 3

 

FRIDAY 17 JULY – Set out on a local tour with Mum making our first stop in the attractive village of Audlem with an interesting church.  Unfortunately the guidebook is not clear on where to find the other points of interest in the different villages and Acton church is closed.  We settle for a wander round Nantwich where we are extremely impressed by the numerous black and white old buildings.  In the afternoon Mum & I join Netty to visit Bobby.  He’s asleep when we arrive but soon comes round and shortly after we get a visit from a nurse to say he can come home with us.  It takes an hour or so to get his discharge papers and for him to have a support stocking on his leg.  I’m very impressed by the fact that he can put weight on the leg and walk quite well on crutches.  He sits in the back of the car with his leg on my knee, as he can’t bend it.  Just about get back ahead of a torrential downpour.  According to the news there are many areas in England that are now flooded.  Netty & Ian call round for a chat in the evening and we sit out in the conservatory trying to talk over the rain.

MARKET DRAYTON 4

 

SATURDAY 18 JULY – We missed going to Netty & Ian’s wedding so promised to take them out for a special meal when we got back.  They have chosen Grinshill Inn, a small pub and restaurant in the village near Shawbury.  On arrival we sit in the bar perusing the menu.  It has recently received a Michelin award so should be good.  The bar area is nothing special but the restaurant itself is lovely with lots of candle and an open kitchen set up.  The menu is not extensive but the food is delicious and nicely served. 

MARKET DRAYTON 5

 

SUNDAY 19 JULY – Both Mum & I have had a disturbed nights sleep due to an intermittent beeping noise.  She points me to her newly fitted fire alarm but it has a 10-year sealed battery set up.  The company phone number is only for Monday – Friday and the instruction leaflet is no help.  Kevin & Sandra call round to pick up their Russian cigs and for a chat.  We had planned to go out walking with Netty & Ian but are put off by the rain.  Instead I invite them round for dinner.  Mum goes out in the afternoon to meet her friend Diane and we sit in the lounge watching a movie.    We all get fed up with the alarm and find the troubleshooting suggestions unhelpful.  It has 2 solutions; vacuum the sensors or check where else the beeping is coming from.  We’ve done the first and what is the point of the latter!  In the end we figure we might as well remove the detector and put is somewhere out of hearing.  Having done this we are amazed to still hear the beeping in the hall.  Unbeknown to us and set on the wrong track with Mum pointing to the new detector we had overlooked another one connected to her alarm system and this is the problem.  Mum doesn’t have the correct replacement batteries but once put back in the sensor stops beeping.  Meanwhile Netty & I have managed to re set the alarm but replacing the new fire alarm we realise it is not working anymore.

MARKET DRAYTON 6

 

MONDAY 20 JULY – Late afternoon we drive to Telford to Netty & Mark’s.  Along with Stacey we go bowling, a bit pricey at £12 for 3 games but fun.  It takes a long time to fit in our 3 games as Stacey and Netty need to keep nipping outside for a cig, the toilets are a long way from the lanes and football is being shown on the big screen.  The lanes are poor and the bowling balls in bad condition so we resign ourselves to challenges such as who can bowl the fastest bowl.  Mark throws one at over 16 mph but Steve is the overall winner on points. 

MARKET DRAYTON 7

 

TUESDAY 21 JULY – I take Mum up to Morrisons so she can do a big shop.  She has kindly agreed to lend us her car until the end of August so I help her to stock up a bit.  In the afternoon we do the Internet at the library and begin researching a cruise to Antarctica.  It seems that the expedition style cruises where you go to some of the island by zodiac only come down to around $3000 and are for about 7 days whereas we have seen a 16 day proper cruise including 3 days cruising around the Antarctic for about half that price so need to consider our options. 

MARKET DRAYTON 8

 

WEDNESDAY 22 JULY – Nicole is visiting from Australia and staying with her Mum whilst daughter Paula and family are renting an apartment.  We walk up to visit them and have a good chat with them all.  Paula’s husband Jason gives us lots of info about Africa for next year and we also catch up on their family news and meet their new son Darcy, 3, and James who is considerably bigger than when we last saw him 3 years ago when he was Darcy’s age.  Nip back to have dinner with Mum then drive round to Netty’s to do some Internet.  Bobby is home and walking very well without his crutch.  We make a spur of the moment decision and book a Holland & America Antarctic cruise for 20 nights departing from Chile and ending up in Brazil.  The nice thing is that it leaves on 21^st December so we are on board for Christmas and New Year.  The American site www.smartcruiser.com has the best deal with an outside cabin working out around £1200 each including taxes etc.  So now we have to decide where in South America to fly to in September and what route we are going to take to get us to Valparaiso by 20^th December.  Steve pops back and brings Mum round to visit Bobby.  She has made him his favourite oranges in lime jelly and he and Nick demolish it in one hit.  In the evening we drive up to Manchester for a chat with David.

MARKET DRAYTON 9

 

THURSDAY 23 JULY – Mum’s friend Ann calls round and we enjoy hearing about her daughters project to build a wooden home in Utah.   After our last lunch with Mum we make our way across country to visit our friend Steve in Winsford.  He and his wife Rosemary brought a B&B there a couple of years ago.  Their B&B is well located for visiting Cheshire and we are surprised to learn that Winsford has the largest underground salt mine in Britain where they are busy digging the stuff out so they don’t run out like they did last winter.  It is great to catch up on all their news and to hear that they are doing well with the business but nice to know we don’t have to run our own business anymore.  Call in for a quick chat with David then head on to Claire’s for the night.  Steve even manages to fit in a game of bowling.

KEIGHLEY, CLAIRES

 

FRIDAY 24 JULY – Claire heads out at 7.30am to drop Daniel at Daz’s whilst we drive off in the other direction to go to Manchester.  We are booked in at Double Take studios for a photo shoot.  Claire had one done earlier this year and got some fantastic shots so I would now like a nice one of Steve & myself to replace the older ones on display at both Mums and one of myself before I age much more!  Arriving at the studios we fill out a questionnaire asking about what type of make up and what style photos we would like.  Next I really enjoy being pampered with a hand and arm massage, full make up and hair styling.  Steve gets his turn with just a little powder on his nose and some hair wax.  We are introduced to our photographer Mark then shown the changing rooms where we begin with the first of our 3 outfits.  This is not a personal experience as there are numerous rooms with props, many photographers and lots of other people having their pictures taken.  I am quite nervous and feel very uncomfortable but begin to relax into it.  After the shoot we move to another waiting room, have snacks and drinks provided.  They ask you to list phone numbers of people who may be interested in the experience and reward you with gifts and discounts.  I end up putting 75 names down – so odds are if you are reading this you are going to get a call up, sorry.  In a private lounge we view our pictures on a big screen and feel disappointed that there aren’t any with a wow factor for us.  However I really want a pic of us as a couple and one of me alone and this has to be our best shot having had my hair and make up done professionally so we re assess and pick out 4.  Total cost £199 for the digital images that we can reproduce however we wish plus an 8x6 of one pick and the option to change the choice once we have spoken to Claire.  Return to Claire’s and begin unpacking our things, as this is now our base until September.  Dad is not well so when we get there to sleep over I end up preparing tea for us all.

KEIGHLEY 2, MOM & DADS

 

SATURDAY 25 JULY – We get up early to be back at Claire’s by 7.30am.  Steve is joining her and Natasha at a swimming gala whilst I am staying with Daniel.  He gets us quite late so we go straight to the shops, to the new Asda, to stock up.  I hate it, as it is busy, large and confusing but am determined not to have to do it again before we leave a week on Thursday so manage to fill up 2 trolleys.  It’s no joke shopping for 5 and instead of being able to load it into the motorhome we have to put it in the car then take it out again to take into the house.  Still playing housewife I put the washing out and another load on before sitting out to sunbathe in the hot afternoon sun.  Natasha hasn’t won anything today but has got a couple of personal best times.  Back at Mom & Dad’s I sort out some tea before we settle down for a TV evening.  Dad seems much better tonight.

KEIGHLEY 3, MOM AND DADS

 

SUNDAY 26 JULY – We get up late, as it is a dull drizzly morning.  I cook us all a roast pork dinner and it goes down really well.  I’ve corrupted Mom by making lots of fresh fruit salad then negating the health benefits by pouring alcohol over it.  Late afternoon it is back to Claire’s where I start cooking another meal.    Natasha has got some best times at the gala so is very happy. 

KEIGHLEY 4, CLAIRE’S

 

MONDAY 27 JULY – We all get up late, think the kids would have stayed in bed longer if we hadn’t disturbed them.  It is funny to see Daniel, Natasha and I all working on computers whilst Steve tats around.  In the afternoon I pop down to Keighley with Natasha, the problem is the Grandma Enid sent her some money and it is burning a hole in her pocket and she really needs to buy everything she sees!

KEIGHLEY 5, CLAIRE’S

 

TUESDAY 28 JULY – We rendezvous with Daz at the leisure centre and pick the kids up so they can do their life saving course.  However there is a problem in that Daniel is not very well.  Last night he began to have an ache in his hip and leg and today it is worse.  We defer their life saving class then take him to the Doctors and get an appointment for this afternoon.  Return home for an hour then set out for our second rendezvous in Oldham with Ian.  When we left Mums we inadvertently picked up one of her bags along with ours and it had to be the one she needs for holiday.  It is amazing how much lighter the traffic is everywhere with the kids on summer holidays and we make good time on the motorway.  After handing over the bag we decide to return on the country roads via Todmorden and Oxenhope.  Originally we thought we would find places to stop and explore and take short walks but as it begins to pour down and with Daniel’s bad leg this is no longer an option.  Settle for a picnic on Lidl car park en route!  When we arrive back my map of South America has arrived and we are both a little shocked to find it unfolds to a rug size sheet with the map continuing on both sides.  We always knew it was a large continent but this somehow makes it seem more so.  No matter my next task is highlighting the places we really want to visit to enable us to plan our tour.  Claire goes out swimming in the evening and whilst she is out we get a call from Lisa & Mick and they pop round with Sian to drop of some tables to put stuff on to sell at the car boot sale this weekend.  Sian is now working at the local nursery with a chance of it becoming a permanent job in September.  They are all off to Turkey on holiday next week.  End up chatting about the work Mick has done on tracing ancestors and it is very interesting.

KEIGHLEY 6, CLAIRES

 

WEDNESDAY 29 JULY – I invite Mom & Dad round for lunch, Dad is starting to feel a bit better and getting out of the house seems to do him good.  In the evening we go over to Bingley to see our campervan friend Pete.  He is back from Ibiza and has his camper with him and is living in it on his factory forecourt.  We have loads to chat about but the topic keeps coming back to how much we all prefer being almost anywhere but England!  He had his Mercedes camper built to suit his need with a garage at the back for all his sporting toys with a bedroom above it and it is excellent.  He travels with his dog Dolly and has been full timing almost as long as we have.  His mate calls round for the evening and having recently retired is eager to chat to us to pick up tips.  We chat for so long that Pete ends up nipping out for a Chinese take away to sustain us.  Hope we can get back for another chat before we all leave.

KEIGHLEY 7, CLAIRE’S

 

THURSDAY 30 JULY – The kids stayed at Daz’s last night and are there until tomorrow so we are home along.  I manage to narrow down our options for flights to South America but it sure takes a long time.  I cook up a fish pie and invite Mom & Dad to join us when Claire gets back from work.  Steve goes out bowling in the evening and Claire is out with friends celebrating her exam passes.  Claire did some work for Virgin Vie many years ago and the tax office have caught up with her so I spend the evening summarising the figures for her tax return – bit of a joke considering she is the budding chartered accountant.

KEIGHLEY 8, CLAIRE’S

 

FRIDAY 31 JULY – I spend the day fine tuning our flight details so the extent I just have to contact a couple of the companies who guarantee to beat any price to complete the final touches.  We are going to fly to Quito (Ecuador) early September then back from Rio at the beginning of January so we are back to help out with the kids during Easter holidays.  In the evening we go round to Richard Johns.  He cooks us delicious bacon, chicken and cream pasta meal and we have lots of laughs chatting and doing games on the TV.

KEIGHLEY 9, RICHARDS

WEDNESDAY 1 JULY – Margaret goes out early to join friends to yoga and I meet her afterwards for coffee.  The teacher Thelma is a very interesting lady.  She met her Japanese husband at a Buddhist retreat in Scotland and went to live over there.  She is also very well travelled and amazes us with the story of her backpacking trip to Thailand with her baby daughter.  On the Internet I get a surprise message from Bev & Norm to say they are hoping to come over to Europe for the month of August and would love to meet up.  As we are looking after Natasha & Daniel that month it is going to take some organising so I swing into actions thinking up different plans.  It is a lovely afternoon so we sit out in the shade in the garden enjoying the company.

HITCHIN 2

 

THURSDAY 2 JULY – It is a lovely hot day, 25C by 8.30am.  Peter & Margaret takes us out for morning coffee at Luton Hoo Hotel, where the Queen used to stay.  It is a magnificent mansion with lovely gardens.  Set out to explore down to the Rock Garden with Peter following along on his mobility scooter.  Near the waterfall Margaret lives up to their name “Rollason” and takes a rolling tumble onto the grass when she goes over on her ankle.  She seems OK although a little shaken.  Walking back up to the house Peter takes his turn and falls out of the scooter when leaning over too far.  They show us some of the interesting features inside the mansion before we settle into the lounge for coffees.  Rooms here start at £350 so this is our only way of feeling rich without spending much.  The afternoon is spent between sitting in the garden and going on the computer.

HITCHIN 3

 

FRIDAY 3 JULY – We’ve had a great time with Margaret & Peter and it has give us chance to unwind a bit and recharge our batteries after all our dashing around.  We are heading to Wakefield today and Margaret takes us back to Stevenage so we can retrace our steps to London on Green Line, £7pp.   This seems to be the only economical way to get to Wakefield.  For the first time we use Mega Bus, £13pp and they seem fine but instead of taking about 2-hours by car it takes us 8 hours but we arrive safely and Karen & Auntie Pamela meets us at Wooley Edge service station.  Chris is out at a friends leaving do but Sarah is at home and along with boyfriends Mike joins us for a meal at the “Old Mill”.  Chris arrives home late but is still happy to stay up later chatting.

WAKEFIELD 1

 

SATURDAY 4 JULY – Chat to Chris in the morning and decide to book their cottage in France from 8-15 August to coincide with Bev & Norms visit.  It is in Brittany and close to many attractions and sleeps 6 so should be perfect. James has called round for the day so we leave the men watching Rugby whilst Karen and I make a trip round the shops and pick up some food for tonight.  Bob & Denise and her Mum come round for the evening and we get on with them really well.  After eating we play a card game, similar to Uno, and have a really good laugh.

WAKEFIELD 2

 

SUNDAY 5 JULY – By luck Denise & Bob are going to Burnley today to pick up a motorhome they bought on E-bay so we manage to get a lift with them to Keighley.  Settle back into Claire’s.

KEIGHLEY 1

 

MONDAY 6 JULY – We go round to Mom & Dads for the day except that I have to go back to Claire’s for a could of hours in the evening to be with Daniel whilst Claire & Natasha go swimming.

KEIGHLEY 2, MOM & DADS

 

TUESDAY 7 JULY – Mom & Dad drive us back to Claire’s and we stay there whilst I do us lunch.  Dad goes to Ling Studios for breathing exercises in the afternoon and whilst he is there Steve & I potter round town.  I spend the evening on the Internet and book us a hotel for the night we arrive in Boulogne and ferry crossings for us all.

KEIGHLEY 3

 

WEDNESDAY 8 JULY – Last summer we went to Egypt with Arf & Jean and have not seen them since.  They drive over from Sheffield to join us for the day.  Having spent the winter in Morocco in their motorhome we are eager to hear all about the trip and really enjoy their company.

KEIGHLEY 4

 

THURSDAY 9 JULY – David and Donna decide to pop over, David can’t wait for us to deliver the cigs we have bought back from Russia.  They stop for lunch and a chat then drop us at Rod & Nancy’s on their way home.  Their daughter Jenny now runs “The Ling Bob” pub and we meet Nancy there when she arrives back from work.  There is a good menu and the food is delicious and reasonably priced.  Rod & Steve drops us in Riddlesden so that they can go on to play snooker whilst Nancy & I walk to Sharon’s for a natter.  They forget to pick us up and the first we know of this is when Claire phones to check why we are not at bowling for her to pick us up!  She collects us from Sharon’s and we stay at Claire’s until Rod drops Steve home.

KEIGHLEY 5

 

FRIDAY 10 JULY – We are lucky that Claire pops home at lunchtime as she can run us down to Sandra & Keith’s to save us getting wet.  Sandra gives us a tour of their new campervan “Freddie” and it reminds us of Billy in Australia and makes us motor-homesick.  We enjoy a light lunch then spend the afternoon chatting and even sit out for a while when Sandra has a nap.  A guy from Sky comes round to show them how to use their new system and we can now understand why our parents are totally confused by it all.  Shimla Spice were awarded best restaurant in Keighley so we book for 6.30pm and can see why they won.  There is a vast choice on the menu, mainly Pakistani food, and we all seem to make good choices and really enjoy it.  Return to Sandra & Keith’s to chat until late.

KEIGHLEY 6

 

SATURDAY 11 JULY – I go down to Keighley baths to watch Daniels swimming lesson in the morning.  In the evening it is Steve’s turn to go to watch Natasha in a swimming gala at Aireborough.   Natasha’s mind is not really on it as she is going to a friends birthday party and sleepover afterwards so she doesn’t do as well as she might have done.

KEIGHLEY 7

 

SUNDAY 12 JULY – Pop down to Morrisons with Claire and pick up some beef for dinner, think I must have bought part shares in a cow as a small joint costs almost £10!  In the afternoon Steve joins Claire & Natasha going to Shipley swimming baths for another gala.  This time she returns with a bronze medal and was only 2 seconds off getting a huge trophy for being the most improved time in the 4 x 100 metres medley.

KEIGHLEY 8

 

MONDAY 13 JULY – For the first time we set out from Claire’s house on foot – she lives way out of town so you need to car to get to everything.  There’s a bus stop nearby and we buy a K-Day ticket for £3 and this gets us all the way to Leeds.  National Express charge £3 to Manchester and we arrive around 1.30pm and find David parked in the taxi rank waiting for us.  He has had a message to call into the Army office to be measured and weighed and due to the numerous one way streets in the city we get a grand tour before arriving there.  They tell him all the reports have come back fine and the next stage is the medical.  Back at his house we pick up Toby the dog and head over to Heaton Park for a long walk.  In front of the mansion is an unusual “ha ha” wall, designed to keep the cattle from coming onto the lawns whilst being invisible from the house.  Beginning Wednesday Macbeth is being performed in the park using many locations and we see some of the actors rehearsing.  Donna cooks a nice evening meal and we sit in their newly decorated dining room.  They have recently bought a new double bed so we get to stay in their bedroom whilst they use an airbed in the lounge and very comfy we are too.

MANCHESTER – PRESTWICH

 

TUESDAY 14 JULY – David drives us down to Mums with Donna joining us.  There’s a hold up on the M6 and when we get to the trouble spot we see that a caravan has come unhitched and gone up the embankment.  At Mums we chat over lunch then David heads home.  I walk up town to collect my book from WH Smiths.  It should be £19.99 but I ordered it on line for £11.99 and just have to wait a couple of days for it to be delivered to the store.  Now I can get on with doing some reading about South America to decide if we want to go there.  Bobby calls round in the evening, he has done a brilliant job resurrecting my old Acer computer and it now runs as a basic laptop with Windows 2000. 

MARKET DRAYTON 1

 

WEDNESDAY 15 JULY – I run Mum and Pauline up town then visit the library to do Internet dodging the showers on my way back.  Bobby comes round again to join us in the evening.

MARKET DRAYTON 2

TUESDAY 16 JUNE - We get up early and are ready to leave at 6.15am.  Mubins car is an old right hand drive Toyota with the bonnet tied down with string and a couple of dubious rear tyres but it is bigger and more comfortable than Lucia’s.  Once we have got around Moscow we make good time.  We are amazed by just how much forest there is in Russia as outside the villages this is all we see.  It is over 700km to St Petersburg but by 11.30am haven’t stopped so we suggest a short break.  Early afternoon we take a 40 minute lunch stop then pick up the ring road around St Petersburg to get to our hosts apartment around 5pm.  Liuba has been living and working in Southend but due to visa renewal problems is back in Russia for a short time.  Her English is excellent and we have lots to chat about.  She can accommodate Steve & me on a sofa bed in the spare room whilst Mubin has a host lined up elsewhere.  Liuba suggests taking the metro into the city and doing a boat trip to get our bearings.  The metro is very straightforward and much smaller than Moscow.  It is the deepest in the world as it has to go under the river so the escalator seems to go down forever.  Fares are R20 (40p) and again there are some impressive stations.  In all it takes about 30 minutes to get to Nevsky Prospect in the city centre.  We are instantly impressed by the architecture.  Almost every building on the main street is impressive.  Nothing prepares us for our first glimpse of The Hermitage in Palace Square, approached through an archway.  It is huge and very nicely painted.  Liuba shows us a few more nice buildings and statues before we board the boat, R400 (8.00).  The trip is longer and more interesting than the Moscow one and we learn that there are over 700 bridges in the city and many canals, a bit like Amsterdam.  To finish off the evening she leads us to a restaurant that serves the Russian version of fast food, it is interesting to be there as the place is nicely decorated but the food has been cooked before, left to go cold and then microwaved.  St Petersburg is in the north of Russia and at this time of year enjoys "white nights" as it never goes dark.  Exiting the restaurant we meet Liuba's daughter Aliona who hands over the car keys as she is out for the night.  We take the metro to pick up the car and change at an unusual station, instead of an open platform all you see is a corridor with lots of lift type doors that open when the train has arrived.   Mubin heads to his host and we get back to settle down at around 12.30pm.

SAINT PETERSBURG

 

WEDNESDAY 17 JUNE - Sleeping in the lounge it is very light as there are only decorative curtains that don't block out the light.  I end up putting my tube bra over my eyes with a black sock inside.  I may look stupid but manage to sleep until 8.30am.  Liuba has been on the phone to Mubin and arranged for us to meet later in the city.  She takes us out to a cemetery where thousands of people were buried during the 900 day siege of St Petersburg that began in 1941 and caused most of the population to starve to death.  Next we take a metro into the city and meet Mubin.  It is pouring with rain and Mubin has already been in the Russian museum and negotiated for us to have Russian pensioners rate, a huge saving at R30 (60p) instead of R350 (7.00) - we just have to remember not to speak English as we enter each sections and show our tickets.  He has also chatted up the lady who hands out the audio guides and is going to stay with her for his last 2 nights in St Petersburg – he sure is a sweet talker.  There are many exhibits but mostly Russian art and not that impressive to us however part of the museum is within Mikhailovsky Palace and this has some lovely rooms with fantastic ceilings.  We are in there for around 3-hours and once we leave go to a cafe that Mubin has checked out.  For R149 we get "borsch" soup, bread, fish and pasta or buckwheat, a small slice of swiss roll and a tiny dish of angel delight.  Not great food but very reasonably priced.  There are many more things we would like to do but the churches are all closed on Wednesday and we don't feel like walking in the rain.  Entering the metro station we find the doors are closed with a throng of people.  Inside the station we can see soldiers and sniffer dogs.  No idea what the problem is but we walk to another station instead.  We all go back to the flat where Aliana is there to greet us, Liuba has had a car accident, a car has run into the back of her, and must wait for the Police.  It takes over 2-hours for them to come and take statements - even the most minor accident here involves the Police. She is still quite upset when she gets back but perks up once her friend Sveta arrives to join us for a meal.  Sveta is an English teacher of small children and tells us of the methods they use including English television programmes.  We also spend a lot of time exchanging English and Russian jokes and setting out logic problems.  Think our English team come out ahead on that one!

ST PETERSBURG 2

 

THURSDAY 18 JUNE - We leave everyone in bed when we set out at 8.30.  We have no problem getting the right platform for the tube but the doors shut when Steve is on it and I am stuck on the platform.  With frantic gestures I make him understand to get off at the next platform and this works well – we seem to have been jinxed with travel traumas since it started with the London underground strike!  As in Moscow the women here love to wear very high heels with either extremely short skirts or skin tight jeans so plenty for Steve to look at!  In the centre of St Petersburg we meet Mubin and head to The Hermitage to join the queue for the 10.30am opening.  It is not raining but bitterly cold.  When we get inside it becomes a free for all but we manage to get to the ticket booth and Mubin gets us all tickets so today we are Russian citizens paying R100 (2.00) versus R350 (7.00) for tourists.  It is a magnificent museum with 3 connected buildings housing exhibitions of all kinds.  The famous artists have many works on display but we are far more impressed with the building itself, originally a Winter Palace.  It takes us 4-hours just to whizz through but I am sure many people could spend a week going round.  Next we walk to the "Church of the Resurrection of Christ" a fantastic building with lots of coloured onion dome towers.  As with most things in Russia there is an entry charge and we are not prepared to pay R300 (£6.00) for a peek inside.  There are some nice gardens next door and we make our way through these to the "Summer Gardens", closed for restoration.  Over the bridge we enter the Peter & Paul's fortress.  At almost all the famous places there are brides having their photos taken and this is no exception and they all travel in stretch limousines.  The church here is where many of the Tsars are buried so when Mubin gets us R90 (1.80) Russian price we take a look around.  Unfortunately the nearby metro is closed so we have a long walk to the next station.  We are back in time to shower and change before a night out with Liuba and Sergey.  They drive us to an Irish Pub and it is just like one in Ireland or England, except the drinks seem even more expensive with Guinness at R230 (£4.60) 1/2 litre.  We snack on 4 deep fried cheese balls for R250 (£5.00) whilst Sergey and Liuba have tiny salads at the same price.  Can't understand how Russians manage to visit places like this.  It seems to us that vodka, petrol, cigarettes and caviar are about the only cheap things here so not much use to us.  Anyway we have a nice evening chatting and learning more about Russian life during the communist days.

ST PETERSBURG 3

 

FRIDAY 19 JUNE - Meet up with Mubin then catch a bus, R50 (1.00) out to Petergof.  This is an estate built by Peter the Great with magnificent gardens.  Without realising it we get in without paying (the ticket person is elsewhere).  The gardens are fantastic with over 140 interesting fountains and canals.  The Grand Cascade is superb with the palace above and the lake below.  It keeps trying to rain but we make it round the main features and really enjoy it all.  Nearby is an impressive church and for once there is no admission.  Most of the churches here have frescoes covering all the walls so are interesting inside and out.  Return to the city to a vegetarian buffet for lunch, R250 (£5.00).  Afterwards we head to Nevsky Monastery more to visit the adjoining Tikhvin Cemetery.  The ticket attendant will only sell him 1 Russian ticket so Mubin stops some lads and asks them to get 3.  They do so but are sold R40 (80p) student tickets and surprisingly they let us in with them – so we have been pensioners, Russians and now students.  The cemetery is very interesting with many famous people buried there including Tchaikovsky and Rimsky Korsekof and lots of impressive memorial sculptures and unusual tombs.  Mustn’t forget to mention a funny incident with Mubin.  He is keen to learn new English phrases but being an English teacher is slow in spitting them out as he wants to be sure his English is correct.  This caused a problem for Steve when he called out “Steve” but stalled before saying “mind your head” causing Steve to bump his head as he was looking at Mubin instead of watching where he was going!  Tonight Mubin is staying with Regina (the attendant from the Russian Museum) but can’t go back until 8pm.  We return to Liuba's and Svetla comes round and another friend Nona.  Svetla has brought lots of games along so we play "Old Maid", "Go Fish" and Uno and thus learn some Russian numbers and colours.

ST PETERSBURG 4

 

SATURDAY 20 JUNE - Having meet up with Mubin we take the bus, R32 (64p) out to Pushkin (Catherine Palace).  P90 (45p) admission to the gardens for Russians (of course you now realise we are honorary Russians!).  The Palace looks lovely from the outside but the queue to go round is way too long.  I have a book to guide us round the gardens and am amazed to reach the Marble Bridge and read that it was modelled on the Palladian bridge in Wilton (the town where I lived as a child).  Also in the area is Pavlovsk, where the Great Palace is surrounded by gardens, R60 (1.20).  Maybe we are getting a bit palaced and gardened out but this is the least interesting one for us, made worse when the heavens open up.  Bus it back to Moscow then agree that although it is only mid afternoon we all have tired feet and have done enough.  Liuba and family are going away for the weekend but have left us a key so we are very happy to get back and have a bit of time alone.  In fact we are so weary that we go to bed around 8pm.

ST PETERSBURG 5

 

SUNDAY 21 JUNE - The longest day of the year but it really doesn't make much difference here as it never goes dark anyway.  Mubin arrives at 9.30am and we head off in the direction of Moscow.  On the outskirts of Velikey Novgorad the Police pull us over for a random check but only speak to Mubin and give him the chance to ask directions (we’ve noticed that this is one thing he loves to do and will often ask directions every 20 feet when we are trying to find something in the city).  Novgorad is a very old city and this weekend there is a festival with a row of cabins where neighbouring countries promote themselves.  These stands also offer some food and drink samples and one of them is even selling “Yorkshire beer”.  Also there are bands and some are playing really good music.  Over the bridge there is a small sandy beach with a volley ball tournament taking place.  In the Kremlin we visit the oldest church in Russia.  It is mid afternoon once we have finished and we are lucky to have parked on a street just beyond where a parade is taking place.  Pressing on we notice lots of "samovars" set up at the roadside serving tea.  Mubin gets pulled by the Police again, this time we believe it is for speeding but he escapes as their speed camera is playing up.  In Valday we check out a couple of hotels.  A fairly regular one on the lakeside charges R4800 (96.00) for a room whilst on the edge of town a room with no bathroom costs R1400 (28.00).  We are debating this when the receptionist comes out and suggests we might like to try another one in town.  There we get a double en-suite room (Mubin has his own) for R700 (14.00) per person.  It is not the best of hotels and certainly well past its best before date but the rooms are clean and we have a lake view.  Mubin says we should head straight to the monastery.  A pretty set up on an island in the middle of the lake.  The buildings are very attractive as is the setting.  Back at the hotel I have an early night whilst Steve and Mubin drink beer and eat sausages.

VALDAY

 

MONDAY 22 JUNE - Mubin gets up early for a swim down at the lake.  He ends up having to go round to the monastery to get in so is late returning at 9.30am.  Continuing our journey is much the same, forest, small villages, bad driving, bad roads.  We make a lunch stop at Tver, previously known as Lenin, and picnic on the banks of the Volga River.  Afterwards we walk around the town to check out the Palace used by Tsars en route from St Petersburg to Moscow.  It is a huge affair but almost completely derelict and waiting to be torn down.  Returning to the car there are lots of Police around.  It seems they have stopped a couple of cars coming over the bridge but Mubin is now worried he is parked illegally.  We have to "hide" until the Police have finished their paperwork and left.  On the outskirts of Moscow we see a huge memorial with lots of wreaths.  Today marks the anniversary of the 1941 entry of the Germans to Russia.  We arrive back in Klazma around 5pm to an empty house.  Last night Lucia has a call from her mother to say she must come immediately (she suspects her father has died).  So she boarded a train just before midnight last night and will be on it until 10pm tonight to get to her family home.  There's plenty of food in the house so I cook up a variation of the chilli pasta and we enjoy our first proper meal for ages.  

KLAZMA 1

 

TUESDAY 23 JUNE - We are all exhausted from the travelling so a day off is in order.  Mubin hears that Lucia's Dad has not died but has had a heart attack; she and her sisters will stay with him for some time.  Steve and I take a walk through the village to the shops but get lost en route.  We've learnt that most young people speak a little English and find a young man to ask the way to the station as we know the shops are nearby.  He directs us but soon after pulls up in his car to give us a lift right to the station.  We are a little embarrassed that we actually don’t want the station so pretend to go down the underpass until he has driven off.  Inside the village shops it is rather like lots of independent counters selling different products and you have to queue up to buy from each one so it takes a long time.  Walking back we get lost again (sounds stupid but most of the tracks are through the forest, don't go straight and are unnamed).  This time we find a man who speaks German and ask directions to the church as this is the nearest landmark to Mubin's.  We are on the right track but just lost confidence.  I spend the afternoon helping Mubin do things on his computer.  It is a lovely hot day so Steve sits out on the patio – a far cry from St Petersburg where we were wearing fleeces and coats and still feeling cold.  In the evening we have been invited for a meal at Dima's house.  We meet his father Karen, mother, Svetlana and grandparents Tatiana and Vladimir who all live together.  Dima gives us a guided tour of the garden and uses his English crib sheet to tell us the English names of the vegetables and plants.  Their house is huge and has a really grand dining room with a long table laden with food.  Vladimir produces Johnny Walker Black label whiskey and Vodka then spends the entire evening filling up our glasses when they are empty.  He proposes numerous toasts each of which means we must drink a little more.  By the end of the evening we can add “na zdorovje” to our new Russian phrases.   The family surprise us with some presents, a tray, glasses and matching bottle holder, a bottle of special vodka and a traditional shawl for me.  Their hospitality is overwhelming and we appreciate the opportunity to try different types of Russian food and learn more about their way of life.  Vladimir is a good friend of the artist C...... and he produces a gold covered book with the artist’s works whilst pointing out the ones he has on the walls.  We reach one picture and realise it is a portrait of Vladimir then look up to see it hanging in the room.  We arrived at 6pm and by the time we leave at midnight both Steve & Mubin are extremely merry whilst I am doing well after 2 glasses of vodka and one of Baileys.  Surprisingly neither of us sleep and both have a very restless night. 

KLAZMA 2

 

WEDNESDAY 24 JUNE - Before we left last night we realised some arrangements were being made for us today and were happy to "go with the flow".  Mubin says we must be ready at 8am and when we leave the garden Vladimir is waiting for us with his car and driver.  He wants to take us into Moscow on a sightseeing trip.  The traffic is really bad and after 1 hour we are still stuck in traffic on the outskirts.  With the heat in the car Steve is feeling really ill so we pull over to get him something to drink.  It turns out we have stopped at cash & carry yard where dozens of containers are opened up to create shops selling drinks by the case load. Whilst Steve would like water or tonic Vladimir returns with a bottle of whiskey, a bottle of vodka and 4 glasses.  Steve is feeling so ill he refuses Vladimir’s insistence to try the "hair of the dog" leaving Mubin and Vladimir to share the whiskey, must mention it is only 9am.  Manage to get Steve some water and set off.  Shortly after Steve feels much worse, thank goodness they bought the whiskey and vodka as the plastic carrier bag comes in handy when Steve starts throwing up.  Manage to pull over at a garage so he can sort himself out but it is not easy with Vladimir standing around trying to get him to drink alcohol!  He means well but Steve really just wants to be left alone quietly.  Anyway we make it through the centre to a hill on the south side of the city near the university with fine views.  Driving through the city we pass many of the famous and attractive Stalin skyscrapers but the MGU university building is one of the most impressive in wedding cake style.  We are on Sparrow Hills and there is a ski lift in the area and a church but the main attraction is the view.  Unbeknown to us Vladimir has sent his driver off to get some food and he appears with a huge tray covered with a white table cloth.  He unveils plates full of sandwiches, caviar, salami, cheese and raw bacon and garlic and a bottle of vodka and another of whiskey.  Next Vladimir has us taken to Victory Park area with a Russian war vehicle museum.  The public are not supposed to enter by road but once our driver greases the palms of the Police security guard we are able to drive through.  Adjoining the museum is a huge memorial to the Russian soldiers, it a 142m memorial obelisk with the archangel near the top but from a distance it looks more like a beetle.  We leave Steve resting in the car whilst we walk through the park and on to the Triumphal Arch.  Vladimir phones his driver and has him pick us up to save us walking back.  We sure are doing things in style today.  After a scenic ride through the city centre we double back beyond Klazma and out into the country.  Vladimir's friend has a special factory out here.  It is the only one in the world that makes everything needed for inside the church except the carpet.   Dima and Tatiana join us in their chauffeur driven car and we are admitted to the factory to do a special tour.  Steve remains along in the car to try and rest.  We begin in the museum with some amazing crosses with real precious stones, lots of crowns and other religious artefacts.  Next we go to see the icons being made for sale.  Each one is painstakingly painted individually using an egg mixture to prevent it from fading.  They also do restoration work on ancient icons and we go into a special temperature and humidity controlled room to see it being done.  Computer controlled machinery now does much of the embroidery and a piece that  is now completed in 4 days would have taken 2 years by hand.  The factory employs around 3000 people and is spread over a vast area.  Within the gardens are greenhouses where they grow fresh produce to be used in meals for the staff.  We end up in the sales area where there are rows of each type of item with prices.  This company has showrooms in countries such as Finland and Germany and also sells over the Internet.  It is really bizarre to look at the choices of altars, chandeliers and such like.  We return to collect Steve and only just in time as a guard has found him asleep in the car and is challenging him in Russian.  Moving into the restaurant area a table has been laid out for a meal for us.  Whilst we only number 8 there are already 23 plates of salads to begin with.  A lady brings round jacket potatoes and Vladimir opens the 2nd bottle of whiskey of the day.  Steve is very frustrated that he is not feeling well enough to do the caviar, salmon and other delicious dishes justice.  Next we are served beetroot soup with boiled eggs and sour cream and this is followed by cooked potatoes a bit like chips and steak with something on top.  We had no idea there was going to be so much food and having made a brave attempt on what turns out to have been the first course Steve can eat no more.  Coffee, tea and cakes rounds off a fantastic meal by which time Vladimir and Mubin are onto the 3rd bottle of Scotch.  It is hard to believe just how much the Russians eat and drink and their hospitality amazes us.  Both Steve and Mubin are very happy to get home around 6pm and settle down for a sleep.  I sit down to write up my diary of this most unexpected and amazing day. 

KLAZMA 3

 

THURSDAY 25 JUNE - Unsurprisingly Mubin is not feeling well whilst Steve is a little better. It is a cold day and it also begins raining so we are happy to stay at home.  I spend time giving Mubin travel sites on the computer.  In the evening I cook us fish & chips with cauliflower and broccoli.  Mubin is surprised that I have managed to make chips that are not swimming in grease as is the Russian style and he really enjoys them.  I also cook him up some meals to tide him through until Lucia comes back.

KLAZMA 4

 

FRIDAY 26 JUNE - It is difficult packing up as the presents we have been given take up almost all of one bag and we still need to pick up some cheap cigarettes.  Mubin wants to see us off so joins us on the train to Moscow and then onto the metro.  With time to spare we alight at a number of stations to appreciate the architecture.  We are sharing a bottle of water when a lady moves over to our side and presents us with a book opened to a page in English.  She's a Jehovah's Witness and disapproves of us using the same bottle and presents Mubin with a leaflet with certain sentences underlined!  Our final leg to the airport is the mini bus getting us there in plenty of time.  We've done on line check in but en route realised we needed to check in at least 1 bag as one of the presents was a bottle of vodka.  Repack and check in 2 bags before saying farewell to Mubin.  Security check in involves you standing in a round glass cabin, raising your arms whilst something sweeps around to do a body scan, very high tech.  We've had an excellent time in Russia, really enjoyed all the tourist highlights but it has been people that have been the icing on the cake.  Our 2 week trip has cost us around £900, (£360 whilst we were there and the rest on flights and visa's etc).  In AUSTRIA we connect to our Heathrow flight and settle down for the 2 1/2 hour journey.  After about 1 1/2 hours we notice the screen showing our plane turning around. The flight attendant tells us the captain will soon be making an announcement and 10 minutes later we learn that the plane has a crack in the windscreen (it has 10 layers so no real problem) and he has been instructed to return to Vienna.  To reduce pressure on the screen we will fly back slowly and at a low altitude.  Landing back in Vienna there are no more flights out to England.  It is such a shame that we must stay in the luxury airport hotel overnight and force ourselves to eat the buffet evening meal and breakfast - yippee.

VIENNA

 

SATURDAY 27 JUNE - After a leisurely pig out over breakfast we check in for our 11.45 BA flight to Heathrow, London ENGLAND.  We arrive in the middle of a heat wave and have to lug our bags, fleeces and raincoats whilst sweating profusely.  Today the Heathrow Piccadilly tube isn't running so we have to revise our plan.  (At the moment it seems we have a hiccup with every public transport journey we take). Catch the bus (£1 fare using the Oyster card instead of £2) to Fenchurch Station and then a train, £3.40 to Clapham Junction.  A short walks gets us to our Couchsurfing host Bernard who lives in a flat nearby.  We need to buy some foot so Bernard takes us for a walk to Clapham Junction town which is very close by.  Jamie Oliver has opened a shop here where people buy a package of ingredients for a meal and then stand at the work station preparing it with supervision.  We are also near to Lavender Hill and this brings up memories of the film "The Lavender Hill Mob" that we watch last winter with Kevin and Ruth.  Stock up on groceries at Lidl and return to cook some pizzas.  Bernard used to live in Zimbabwe and has had many Couchsurfers so we chat the evening away.

CLAPHAM JUNCTION

 

SUNDAY 28 JUNE - Bernard walks with us to the nearby bus station, he boards first and before we can step aboard the doors close.  We hammer on the door but the drive is oblivious and sets off.  Catch the next bus and Bernard joins us a few steps later.  We get off in South Kensington and set out to explore Hyde Park, very impressed with the Albert Memorial, check out the Princess Diana pool and wander along the Serpentine.  It is a really hot day and people are sprawled out on the lawns. Harrods is closed so we can't spend out money there.  Bernard leaves us when we head into the free Victoria & Albert museum.  The building is amazing and in the central courtyard kids are paddling in the pool whilst others lie around sunbathing.  We spend about 2-hours enjoying the building and the many varied displays - it actually compares well to the Hermitage as it is so varied.  Next stop the nearby Science Museum but this holds less appeal for us.  Finally the National History Museums is wonderful will a massive hall holding replicas of famous monuments. columns and church facades.  So other than the bus journey in and out at a total of £2 each we have had a fantastic day and spent nothing.  In the evening we want to take Bernard out for a meal and he suggests Little Bay where they have cheap meals before 7am.  It looks nothing from outside but the interior is decked out in Far East style with lots of billowing material on the ceiling and small niches to sit in.  The food is also excellent and reasonable at £2.25 for starters, £5.95 mains and £2.25 desserts.  A classic case of local knowledge being a winner.

CLAPHAM JUNCTION 2

 

MONDAY 29 JUNE - Today's travel hiccup is that the bus we are on to Waterloo has a last minute change of direction and terminates at St Thomas's hospital.  No matter as with Bernard's help we find our way to the south bank of the river.  There is a lovely walk along here past the London Eye and theatres and with fine views over the city.  The Tate Modern gallery is a bit of a laugh for us as we cannot believe some of the things they consider art - at one stage I drop my handbag on the floor and almost expect someone to photograph it as an exhibit.  Next door The Globe looks interesting from the outside (high admission fee) so we then walk over the famous Millennium Bridge and find it no longer wobbles.  Bernard peels off at this point and leaves us to continue to St Pauls cathedral (£11 admission) so we give a miss in favour of the free Museum of London.  The fire of London part is quite interesting but much of it is closed for renovation.  It is now early afternoon and very hot so we crash out in "The Postman's" park for an hour.  This is an interesting pocket park within the city with a wall of remembrance for heroes, ordinary people who have gone out of their way to try to save someone else and lost their own lives in doing so.  Hop on the bus to the British Museum and we are immediately enthralled.  The central court is the largest covered square in Europe and the galleries are huge.  I am fascinated by a display about the amount of drugs we take in a lifetime.  A male and female are followed from birth to death with a net containing all the pills they would have taken sectioned off to the different decades of their lives.  The Parthenon marbles are even more impressive after watching a video about them and the Rosetta Stone is another highlight.  It is probably our favourite museum so far.  In fact we are in there until closing time.  Amble along through Soho, China town and Piccadilly Square until we reach The Mall.  Opposite St James Palace we notice the Policeman dropping the chain.  He won't tell me who is due to arrive but says it is worth hanging around.  Half an hour later Prince Charles arrives home and sweeps past in the back seat of the car not 2 feet from us.  He must have recognised us as he gives a friendly wave!  Pick up the bus in Victoria to arrive back after a most interesting, but exhausting 12- hour day.

CLAPHAM JUNCTION 3

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TUESDAY 30 JUNE – We return to Victoria station to make our way to Hitchin.  It is promoted by National Express but their ticket office says it is run by Green Line, just across the street, and leaves at 1020am.  We are very early so I wander round the nearby shopping centre, return at 10 past 10 to find Steve fuming as the bus left at 10am and there isn’t another until 11am.  £7.50 gets us to Stevenage where our friend Margaret picks us up in the car.  We settle into the spare bedroom and have a most enjoyable afternoon enjoying the heat wave by sitting under a shady tree in the garden chatting.  Husband Peter has recently had an ankle operation so is probably glad of the company.

HITCHIN

 

 

 

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200906

 

MONDAY 1 JUNE 2009 – Claire has a nice list of jobs for us to do so I set off downtown to buy a few things.  Daniel and Natasha are swapping rooms and we are helping to get Daniels new room ready so need decorating stuff etc.  I’ve managed to find a lot of stuff on line and have ordered stuff to be collected from the stores.  I’m amazed by how many shops have closed down since last year and end up spending 3-hours because I can’t find things.  Steve has been busy removing the fitted wardrobe and shelves.  It is a really hot day so we both take a break in the afternoon to sunbathe.

KEIGHLEY 3

 

TUESDAY 2 JUNE – The kids are sleeping at Daz’s for the next couple of nights so we get stuck into the decorating.  The room is only about 6 foot square so we take it in turns to do the painting.  By mid afternoon the pink walls are all a light grey and everything is finished and looks pretty good.  It feels a bit like when we went through Parkwood in 10 days doing a whole room per day.  The new bed is arriving tomorrow so we have had to press on.  Again it is a really hot day so we manage a bit of sunbathing.  Claire is out swimming in the evening so we invite Lisa and Mick around for a meal and chat.

KEIGHLEY 4

 

WEDNESDAY 3 JUNE - I begin with a trip down town, a skin test at the hair salon ready for a colour tomorrow and more shopping for decorating supplies.  The bed hasn’t arrived by lunchtime and when I phone “Rooms” he says the delivery has just been dropped off and they only have the mattress and not the base so we cancel.  Claire goes downtown in her lunch hour to check out another one for delivery later today then I follow her down to pay.  The new bed arrives and I quickly get the bedding on to have it looking nice for when Claire gets back from work.  She is also happy with the way we have organised the furniture in Natasha’s new room and agrees with us that we should press on and paint the blue wall pink to complete the transformation.  Steve sets about giving it two coats of white in preparation whilst Claire goes for the pink and I paint the front door.  All hard work but we are beginning to see results.

KEIGHLEY 5

 

THURSDAY 4 JUNE – I leave Steve putting the pink sparkle paint on the wall.  Call round to pick up Mom, as she wants to see what the College beauty salon is like.  It turns out my hair colour, cut and blow wave is going to take longer than anticipated so she leaves me to bus home.  Steph does a very good job and at £11 for a full permanent colour and £2.40 for the cut it is very reasonable.  Back at home Steve has ended up having to put on 3 coats of pink (that’s 5 coats on the wall since 6pm last night – crazy).  We have a frantic couple of hours getting everything straightened as much as pos before heading for Doctors appointments.  Last year in Florida we had our skin checked for cancers and were warned to get them rechecked.  The Doctor here feels they are no problem but we should keep and eye on them.  When the kids get home they are both very pleased with their new rooms so all our hard work was well worthwhile.  Keeping up the pace I take Daniel to scouts whilst Claire is out swimming.  Really don’t think we could keep going at this rate without meeting ourselves coming back. 

KEIGHLEY 6

 

FRIDAY 5 JUNE – We have a last tidy round and wash our bedding, and Mums car, before leaving.  Drive to Prestwich to meet up with David & Donna.  When we arrive only Chelsea is home as David & Donna are at the funeral of the lady from next door.  We wait awhile then Chelsea gives them a call and says they are at the welcome.  I completely misunderstand this and think this must be a Manchester expression for a wake.  As the conversation develops I finally realise that they are at The Welcome pub just up the road.  We call in for fish and chips then head to the pub to chat with David and Donna in the beer garden.  David looks really well having put on a bit of weight and grown his hair however Donna is still not recovered after her operation last year and obviously in quite a lot of pain.  Arrive at Mums late afternoon and sit chatting before we settle ourselves back into the spare room.  We speak to Claire in the evening and she is really pleased with everything in the house but not the bedding that was wet through on the line as has rained in Keighley all afternoon.  For once we are in the right place as it is just cold in Drayton but dry.  Mum is keen to go away at Christmas so Swatours opens and I begin negotiations with Auntie Pamela and Mom & Dad to try and find a trip that suits them all.  Netty & Ian call round in the evening and we have a chat and a bit of a laugh.

MARKET DRAYTON

 

SATURDAY 6 JUNE – Other than waking up once in the night I have slept really well and am surprised to find it almost 9am when I get up.  Claire and family get up around 6.30am and I have been waking up with them to get on with jobs so I was due a lie in.  It is a miserable raining morning so I drive Mum up for her hair appointment then walk to the library for Internet.  I hear Aussie voices and find myself sat by Steve and his wife who live in Victoria and have a holiday home in Ocean Grove near Bev & Norm.  They are renting a canal boat to do a circular tour in the area.  When I get back I open Swatours and finalise the trip for Mum and everyone to do a coach tour to Ilfracombe for 5 days over Christmas.  In the afternoon I drive Steve to the pub so he can watch the England match – with great interest as they have almost guaranteed their place in the World Cup which means we plan to be back in South Africa next summer. 

MARKET DRAYTON 2

 

SUNDAY 7 JUNE – It is another rainy day, think we may have had the best of the summer last week!  Mum goes to church in the morning whilst we try to sort out some of our affairs.  It is Nick’s 17^th birthday and he is having a party so we head round there around 3pm.  It is raining and the original plan was for a BBQ so in true British style Ian arrives opens the garage door and sets up his stand underneath it.  We have a great laugh, Bobby’s is there with his girlfriend Kat, Nick with girlfriend Rachel and Netty’s friend Debbie, whom we also know, also joins in the fun.  Once Nick has blown out the candles on his cake we grab him to do the bumps.  Mum has a bit of a headache and leaves mid evening but we stay on quite late chatting.

MARKET DRAYTON 3

 

MONDAY 8 JUNE – We are on a mission with lots to do but fall at the first hurdle.  All we want to do is convert a bond that matures next week, whilst we are away, into an ISA.  Not so simple as you have to put in £3600 and they don’t know the exact value of the bond until the interest is added at the end.  I leave Steve gathering checks and go to the library to do our tax return on line but get stuck with that as Steve has the bankcards with the information I need.  Back home I had planned to go to the Tesco clearance store with Mum but she has heard it is only open weekends, sure enough it is closed today and now opens Wednesday to Saturday but at least Mum gets her shopping done.    

MARKET DRAYTON 4

 

TUESDAY 9 JUNE – It is a cold day and I am glad of the fleece jacket I have recently bought.  On the Internet I realise we may have problems in London tomorrow.  Elizabeth Street is where the National Express coach station is and is also where we could have caught a bus out to Heathrow.  From tomorrow afternoon it is closed for a street festival.  Checking out the alternative of the underground I learn that they are on strike for 2 days.  Good job we don’t fly until Thursday morning, reckon we could end up hitching a lift at this rate!  In the evening we drive over to Paul & Elaine’s and Pete & Carol come up to meet us all there.  We send out for Chinese and curries so we can spend more time catching up on news.   As usual Pete puts on a great performance and has us all in stitches.  It’s amazing how some things never change!

MARKET DRAYTON 5

 

WEDNESDAY 10 JUNE – Mum usually gets a lift to town but can’t today so I offer to drive her and Pauline up after her pupil leaves around 10.15.  At the library I do on line check in for Austrian Airlines, easy with only hand baggage.  It is raining mid afternoon so Mum offers to drive us to the bus station to catch the 3.10 to Hanley, £2.60.  We have a short wait for the 4.20pm National Express bus to London.  They stop at motorway services within an hour; think this is because they then get a voucher to travel free on the new toll road.  Nearing London the traffic is really bad due to the tube strike.  Our driver pushes along but gets blocked when a lorry driver tries to share the same lane.  There is a bit of road rage when the lorry drive comes over to shout at our driver but size wins and the lorry backs up.  From Victoria coach station we want to go to Heathrow, can’t take the tube due to a strike, can’t catch the local bus nearby as the street is cordoned off for a festival so have to use the National Express airport shuttle £4.  The 8pm is running late and we leave at 8.40pm but within an hour are stopped at the side of the road with a tyre problem.  We've been hearing strange noises and bits of rubber have come off and made a real mess of the wheel arch.  We must wait for another bus and just over an hour later a Dillons coach takes us to the airport.  With no tube running between terminals we are very pleased to find that the Heathrow Central bus stop is only a short walk to Terminal 2.  It is really quiet and we join the other "couchsurfers" laid out on the seats.  We are quite comfortable but sleep is nigh on impossible due to security announcements about unattended baggage every 15 minutes. 

HEATHROW AIRPORT

 

THURSDAY 11 JUNE- At 4am the departure area opens and we proceed through.  Austrian Airlines say you can only have 1 piece of hand luggage weighing 8kg but having checked in on line no one has weighed our bags or looked to see how many we have.  Our 6.05 flight to Vienna leaves on time and we have just over an hour to wait for our onward flight to Moscow.  We land in RUSSIA Moscow Domodedovo airport a little ahead of schedule.  At passport control it is organized chaos with no orderly line just a huge crowd of people pushing forward.  We see the right side moving faster then get to the front to find we are in the “diplomatic passport” area.  Anyway they seem to be taking everyone and we are very surprised how quickly the formalities are completed.  As we emerge into the terminal Mubin (our couchsurfing host) comes running up behind us.  As we have little baggage he says we can use the local bus and train to get to his home.  Exchange rate is around Rubles 50 = GBP1 so easy to convert.  The micro bus, R100 (5.00), takes us to the metro station at the edge of the city.  In Russia they drive on the right but seem oblivious to normal road rules!  Mubin is an English teacher and although he speaks well he wants to perfect phrases etc during our visit so we immediately begin chatting.  He has a carrier bag with beer inside so we have our first taste of Russian beer whilst on the bus.  The bus stops by the steps down to the Metro.  These tickets cost R22 (44p) per journey and we are soon underway on the largest underground in the world.  Many of the older stations are really impressive with fancy ceilings, chandeliers and murals.  Emerge at Komsomolskaya station adjacent to Yaroslavl train station.  Our journey costs R56 (1.12) and takes about 45 minutes to the town of Klazma where Mubin lives.  Every few minutes a vendor appears in the carriage and stands at the end giving the info on what he has to sell, food and drink (including beer), DVD’s, clothing and other things.  They are very professional and use a microphone to promote their wares.  Business seems good as they all make at least one sale.  Arriving in Klazma Mubin wife Lucia is waiting in the car.  She doesn’t speak English but seems very friendly and is always smiling and laughing.  They have a wooden home in the forest and we have our own room.  After a shower we enjoy our first Russian home cooked meal, a few a salad items followed by mash and chicken then salami, cheese and bread.  Mubin takes us for a walk around the area.  We are amazed to see huge posh mansions amidst small rustic log cabins.  Apparently Moscow has more billionaires than New York.  Walking down by the river it begins to rain so we head for home and settle into the spare room on the sofa bed. 

KLAZMA NR MOSCOW

 

FRIDAY 12 JUNE- Today is a holiday in Russia so Mubin & Lucia suggest we got out for a drive in the country.  Before that we try a Russian breakfast of rice porridge, bread, salami and homemade cottage cheese.  It is a nice sunny day and when we set off at 10.15 the roads are very busy.  The 2 lane dual carriageway has become 5 lanes with people driving in the centre lane, on the hard shoulder and also the dirt beside it.  Lucia is driving, aided and abetted by Mubin who encourages her to keep changing lane.  There are many modern cars on the road but lots of old Lada's and these are the ones that are generally seen broken down.  The countryside is very green with vast expanses of forest.  Petrol varies in price but seems to average 40p litre for regular unleaded.  We’ve been trying to explain motorhomes to Mubin & Lucia and this is made easier when a caravan tour of about a dozen Italian ones come towards us.  In Russia they use the cryllic alphabet so during the journey I try to learn it by translating the place names and it is no easy task.  Capital and lower case letters are used along with symbols.  Rostov is a most attractive town and we picnic down by the lake.  The main attraction here is the Kremlin (fortress) as it is very old.  We really enjoy wandering between the different buildings linked by bridges and outside walls.  There are many churches with nice frescoes and museums with exhibitions. Your admission ticket must be marked on entering each room and I notice the people seem quite surly so make it my mission to get one to smile.  I finally do on all but the last room.  Also in Rostov is a nice monastery with lots of domes on the church.  On the way back we stop at Pereslvl, the place where Peter the Great made his first boat.  There is a museum containing a replica on the hill but it is closed.  We take another picnic by the lake but a thunderstorm makes us cut it short.  Lucia has driven all day, to enable Mubin to drink, so must be tired when we get back at 9pm.  Mubin used to teach English to a neighbour’s boy called Dima and he wants to come round and chat.  He arrives with a lovely orange cake his mother has made.  He is 17 years old and his spoken English is now better than Mubins, but he has visited England and is still studying it at college. 

KLAZMA 2

 

SATURDAY 13 JUNE - - Lucia stays at home whilst Mubin takes us into Moscow on the train and metro.  We emerge in Revolution Square then walk around the corner to Red Square.  It is very impressive with the huge GUM department store on one side and the Kremlin opposite with the magnificent red Historical museum at one end facing the really picturesque onion domed St Basils Cathedral at the other.  To enter the cathedral costs R350 (7.00) but Mubin gets us all pensioner tickets for R100 (2.00).  Not as bad as it sounds as in Russia pension age is 55 for a woman and 60 for a man.  The cathedral is magnificent with numerous chapels with frescoes and murals linked by passages and stairs.  We double back through Red Square where a wedding couple are pausing for photos and even pose for us to take one.  We also stop for the obligatory picture on the KM 0 plaque where many people make wishes and throw a coin over their shoulder for each one.  Next we wander through the Alexander Gardens with the Unknown Soldier’s grave, story character statues in the stream and an impressive horse fountain.  There is a huge line for the Kremlin tickets and no discounts without proof so we pay R350 (7.00).  After walking over a bridge we emerge inside the walls to find modern and old buildings.  The churches are again impressive with murals and icons.  There is a famous canon and a bell, both the largest in the world but they have never been used.  We picnic in the Secret Garden before heading over the river to catch a boat.  R400 (8.00) gets us a 40 minute trip and we get to see lots of things including Peter the Great statue and Gorky Park.  We get off near the station that goes to Odessa and there is a wonderful fountain where we paddle to cool our feet backed by the Crystal Bridge over the river.  Back on the metro we wander the length of Arabat pedestrian street then walk through parks with statues and theatres.  Whilst walking around I can't help but notice that many Russian women are tottering around in high heels and are very dressed up, actually it is Steve that points this out plus the fact they have very long legs and big boobs, I guess the miniskirts and low tops don't hide much.  Again we get an evening storm.  Dima comes round and says he was very frightened as it is the worst storm he has known.  Tonight he has bought an apple cake from his Mum and we eat this after the liver and mash and the ubiquitous salami, cheese and bread.  It seems true that in Russia you get little variety of food but plenty of it and plenty of beer to wash it down.   After dinner Lucia produces some good Russian vodka and tells us we have to take 3 shots and follow each one with something salty like raw fish.  Now this is the part of Couchsurfing we really enjoy, when we get to know the local traditions although eating the fish is not on my agenda. 

KLAZMA 3

 

SUNDAY 14 JUNE - We set off early to beat the queues for Lenin’s tomb.  It is very somber but quite an experience to see him lying there looking more like something from Madame Tussauds waxworks than a preserved corpse.  Next we explore the GUM department store, 3 sections with high glass domed ceilings and lots of bridges joining the different areas.  There's a free guided tour of Kitay Gorod area leaving from Revolution Square at 11am and although it isn't in English we tag along.  Between Mubin filling us in and our Rough Guide we get a really good walk through district.  One of the buildings is famous as in has a huge hall inside and in 1994 they filled it with Masaratis and Ferraris sold out by the end of the day.  We walk up to Gorky's House and really appreciate some of the interesting “Gaudi style” features inside.  Onwards to Patriarch Ponds with fantastic brass 3d pictures depicting Aesop’s style fables along with a huge statue of the author Ivan Krylov.  It is a long metro ride out to Kolomensko but once we climb the hill and walk through the arches and see the magnificent Church of the Ascension with a stunning view of Moscow behind it is all worthwhile.  We are all weary and feel frustrated that our next long walk takes us to a replica wooden Palace that is still being built and cannot be visited; well at least we have seen the unfinished 8^th wonder of the world.  Arrive back shattered but very happy with all we have seen and done.  Mubin is not happy as the workers have made a real mess of his new gate.  We hear him having a go at them when they come round for payment and Steve is frustrated that he can't help by backing him up. 

KLAZMA 4

 

MONDAY 15 JUNE - In Russia tourists must be registered within 3 working days of their arrival.  There is confusion over where and how this must be done.  Hotels are responsible for registering their guest whilst for independent travellers the onus falls on their "landlord".  Mubin says we will try the local Police station where we arrive early and must wait for the 10am opening.  He gets forms to fill in, has to drive home to get family to sign papers and returns with his brother.  All to no avail as they then say we must go to Puskina Police Station, huge queue when we get there.  I've read on the Internet you can register at the Post Office and yes you can but this one doesn't do it on Mondays.  We want to go to St Petersburg tomorrow so need to get registered today.  At Mubins we call "Real Russia" who issued our visa and have an office in Moscow.  They will register us for R1000 (£20.00) each but say Mubin can do it at a Moscow Post Office cheaper.  In the car we find a Post Office on the outskirts but it is closed 1-2.  When it opens we find that their photo copier is broken and we need copies of our passport, entry visa and arrival form.  The photo copy shop next door closes for lunch from 2-3.  We leave Mubin filling in the forms and set out to get copies.  At a bathroom showroom across the road the assistant kindly does them for us and won't accept payment.  It takes Mubin almost 2-hours to complete the procedure.  He has difficulty with the forms and has to ask for assistance but the clerk shouts back at him.  Apparently they are very poorly paid and see no reason to be nice to customers!  Eventually we complete the process at a cost of R118 (2.36) each plus R89 (1.80) for recorded delivery.  We are given a receipt that Mubin must hand into a Police Station within 24-hours of our departure.  We can see why few people visit Russia independently with all this performance to go through.  Arriving back late afternoon Mubin realizes the gate in the fence has nothing to keep it closed and with us leaving Lucia behind tomorrow he wants to fit a lock and does so assisted by Dima and Steve.  For 3 years Mubins car has been stored in his brother garden so he gets it out to give it a run and top up the fluids. 

KLAZMA 5

FRIDAY 15 MAY – Our final day at sea and last chance for on board activities.  We have had a rough nights sailing and it is still a bit choppy but I am feeling much better and ready for action.  Steve is finally on a winning trivia team (they have been up as tie breakers many times but lost).  I don’t like being in the same team as him as one of the guys takes it too seriously.  British immigration officers have boarded the ship and throughout the day we take turns to clear customs.  Apparently there will be nothing more at Harwich so you can take in virtually anything on the basis that you are limited by how much you can carry.  Our final formal night and Steve must have lost a bit of weight as his trousers now fit!  Alan & Ika are absent and we are upset when she arrives and tells us Alan is ill with a lung infection and has been on a drip.  Judging by the number of “alpha” calls this sailing we have had a lot of illnesses on board and at least one death.  Guess this is a reflection on the age of the passengers and the duration of the cruise.  The “Soul Sensation” show is excellent, all our kind of music.  This is followed by the talent show with some great singers plus a comedian.

JEWEL OF THE SEAS 12 – AT SEA VIGO TO CHERBOURG

 

SATURDAY 16 MAY – Cherbourg FRANCE, our final port of call.  It is 15C out so we rug up with our coats on and catch the free shuttle into town.  Could easily have walked as it turns out to be very close.  It is a typical French harbour town but what we find curious is a whole street full of Turkish kebab restaurants!  Numerous motorhomes are free camping along the quay but none are British.  Back on board late morning we decide on a sauna and Turkish bath to warm up.  There are separate ones for men and ladies and I am the only one in the ladies.  I’m surprised to find that Steve is out before me but not when he tells me there was a gay guy in the men’s playing with himself whilst looking across at him – maybe he saw Steve in The Quest and took a fancy to him!  It is Steve’s turn to spend the afternoon in bed so I go along to the timed sudoku challenge but must be slipping as I only come in second.  It suddenly dawns on me that we need to be packed up before dinner, as the suitcases must be put out for collection.  We’ve bought duty free cigarettes and won 4 bags as prizes so getting everything into the bags is a nightmare.  It is good to see Alan at the dinner table for our last meal.  Apparently there is a virus going around on the ship and I suspect that I am starting with it as I have similar symptoms.  We’ve been really lucky with our dinner companions as although we are a mixed age group from different walks of live everyone has been friendly and many of us have socialised together.  Our last show is British magician “Jamie Allan” who does some amazing sleight of hand card stunts.  A handful of people gather for the late night “Family Feud”, like Family Fortunes and we both end up on teams but luckily only win runners up key rings.  Looking back over the trip we are really glad we have travelled this way, found Bermuda the most interesting port of call, like everyone on our table we felt the food was lacking and that in general cuts were being made and noticed.  Still for what we paid this is more of an observation than complaint.

JEWEL OF THE SEAS 13. CHERBOURG

 

SUNDAY 17 MAY – We wake up in Harwich ENGLAND where disembarkation is extremely efficient and the railway station is directly beside the ship.  I’ve got a great deal with tickets from www.raileasy.co.uk paying £19 all the way to Stoke whilst people in the ticket line in front of me pay £49 just to London.  From Harwich the line is closed on Sundays for maintenance so we are bussed to another station.  It is really funny listening to the Americans pointing out features of England – the cars on the wrong site, the tiny roads, old houses, greenery etc.  Pass through a town called Stratford and one lady shouts out to ask if it is where Shakespeare is from!  On the train to London it turns out she also thinks that Liverpool Street Station is actually Liverpool – hope she wasn’t planning on doing the Beatles attractions there.  Laden with bags it is hard work picking up the two tubes to get us to Euston where we wait about 1-hour for our onwards Virgin train.  The early morning rain has ceased and the weather is picking up a bit but it is still cold.  Arrive in Stoke on Trent at ¼ to 2 (less than 6 hours after leaving ship) and are delighted that Netty & Ian are there to meet us.  They both look really well and very happy in their newly married life.  Mum also looks well and is very pleased to see us.  After catching up on news it is difficult to know what to do next with 5 bags to unpack, 2 weeks worth of laundry to tackle, 1 years worth of mail and family and friends to contact.  Mum cooks us a chicken tikka dinner and it is tastier than most of the food on the ship.  Call round to Netty's in the evening to begin tackling the Russian visa challenge but with numerous setbacks including the fact they have crossed Steve’s and my details on the invitation letter.  I have very bad nights sleep.   My asthma is bad; I seem to have a chest infection, blocked nose and a chill.  I must look really funny in bed with a woolly hat on, 2 T-shirts, socks and in addition to the normal bedding an extra bedspread, dressing gown and blanket.  Blame it all on the air conditioning on the ship.

MARKET DRAYTON   

 

MONDAY 18 MAY – I have a really bad night and get up at 6am.  By the time the others get up it is pouring with rain and I’m still not feeling well.  We must sort out our Russia visa so Steve drives us up to the library to use the Internet.   Way to Russia quickly sort out the invitation problem and will E-mail new ones (good job too as they charged us $55 for the service).  I’m whacked when we get back and retire to bed for the afternoon.

MARKET DRAYTON 2

 

TUESDAY 19 MAY – I sleep better and get up at 8.30am to enjoy my first bath in months, enhanced with my favourite Avon “skin so soft” bath oil.  We spend the morning at the library continuing the visa application.  The new invitation arrives but I am frustrated to find “Way to Russia” direct me to “Real Russia Ltd” for application assistance.  Way to Russia charge £107.80 each for the visa including assistance but for £115.30 they would have included the invitation and this would have been a cheaper and quicker option.  Oh well, at least we can now complete and get the application in the post.  So far our cheap Russia holiday that started with £2 flights has already cost over £500 and we haven’t even set off!  If you have ever seen the movie “Terminal Man” about Tom Hanks ending up living at an airport you will understand that we are beginning to feel like “Library Couple”!  Once we get back I again feel worse and by mid afternoon am struggling to breath.  I’m sure I haven’t got swine flu but am not keen to race to the Docs but phone for advice.  They say I must phone the NHS help line for a consultation.  They are extremely thorough and more concerned about the virus on the ship but insist I must see as Doctor.  At the surgery Doctor Dean says I have lots of “grott” on my lungs and need penicillin but that everything else will clear up in time.  Bobby & Kat call round in the evening and we have a good chat. 

MARKET DRAYTON 3

 

WEDNESDAY 20 MAY – I’m feeling considerably better but Steve is now barking (more than normal) and wheezing.  We’re terrified of giving anything to Mum so have been trying to keep out of her way and frequently squirt with antibacterial spray.  She’s off up town to meet her mates at the Tudor House.  Steve gets up and sets to work on some jobs for Mum and U join in but we are both too weak to do much.  In the afternoon we go over to Mark & Netty’s in Dawley.  Lauren and Aidan arrive just ahead of us, Marks girls are already there and Netty has her granddaughter Amber for the evening so it is quite a house full.  Kevin & Sandra come straight from work and Stacey’s getting back from work completes the party.  It is pretty chaotic but nice to get a chance to see everyone again.  Mid evening we get a text from Claire.  Natasha has had an accident doing karate and is at hospital having stitches for a head wound.   Steve is going downhill fast so I end up driving back.  Claire tells us Natasha has needed 5 stitches but was very brave and now at home sleeping. 

MARKET DRAYTON 4

 

THURSDAY 21 MAY – I answer the door at 20 to 10 as Mum is expecting a pupil.  An elderly couple are standing there with a sheet in their hand and I ask if they are here for the lesson with Mum and am just about to ask them in when I hear Mum coming through.  It turns out they are Jehovah’s witnesses and must have thought I was offering them the chance to give Mum as lesson.  I’ve spent the last 3 days unpacking and sorting our stuff but must now pack for our visit to Yorkshire.  In the afternoon I drive Mum over to the Princess Royal hospital for an X-ray.  The specialist says that they didn’t replace the hip socket but he doesn’t consider it is needed and he believes her limp and pain is now down to a back problem but that is for her Doctor to figure. 

MARKET DRAYTON 5

 

FRIDAY 22 MAY – We are off to Yorkshire to day and Steve begins driving but gets tired on the motorway so I take over.  At Stanley Middleton’s we pick up fresh pies for lunch to take to Claire’s where she meets us during her lunch hour.  Steve spends the afternoon in bed but I have to pick up the kids at 3.30pm.  Mum joins we for the drive over to Howarth where Daniel arrives on the school bus and Daz brings Natasha to us.  Her head looks pretty good with only a small covering over the stitches and no other bruising.  Daniel looks very grown up in his Halifax Grammar School uniform.  I cook tea for all of us after which Claire takes Mum up to Mom & Dads to spend the night.  We are keeping our distance, as Mom doesn’t want us to give Dad our colds, as he is not too well himself. 

KEIGHLEY

 

SATURDAY 23 MAY – We’ve slept reasonably well in Claire’s bed but must come up with a better sleeping plan for Claire when we come back to stay for longer.  The kid’s rooms are really small but we talk about Daniel moving into the smallest room and Natasha into his old room where w may be able to get an extra bed.  We pick up Mum, who has had a lovely evening, and drive over to Wakefield to drop her at Auntie Pamela’s.  Onwards to Hull where we first stop to shop at Asda.  John meets us at the gate to YSS (Yorkshire Sun Society) and leads us to the new visitors caravan.  The old one got wrecked in the floods and new one used to belong to a member.  They have done a nice job making it look homely inside and we even have all new bedding, pink for Natasha and blue for Daniel.  Apart from it not having mains electric and a TV it seems nicer than the old caravan.  Tonight is the tramps ball and the kids enjoy getting dressed up then ripping their clothes and covering them in mud.  The evening begins with a fish and chip supper, £3, or sausage and chips for the kids.  There are some really funny tramps costumes and some people really get into the spirit of it curling up on the floor in boxes.  There are prizes for the best male, best female and extra one for the kids as Daniel and Natasha are the only entrants and win a box of jelly babies.   It is 10.30pm by the time we get home to bed but there is a problem with the battery so we can’t have the lights on and go straight to bed. 

YSS 1

£50 club caravan, £7 per couple per day visitor fees, £5 bedding pack

 

SUNDAY 24 MAY – We’ve all been cold in the night so are happy to get up and find it is a hot and sunny morning.  We enter the petanque competition with Natasha and I in one team and Daniel and Steve in the other.  Nat & I are consistently bad and don’t even get a point in either of our two games.  Steve & Daniel do really well and lose 15 – 14 in the final.  Sheila is so impressed with Daniel’s performance that she gives him her prize of a free drink voucher.  Spend much of the afternoon at the swimming pool.  Natasha gradually manages to worm her way further in but as it is only chest high we trust her not to wet her stitches.  The evening entertainment is skittles and Daniel enters us as “The Randomers”.  Natasha is the star of the team as the only one ever to knock over all 9 pins but even that is not enough to get us to the final.  Throughout the day the kids have enjoyed looking at the magazine adverts on the club walls, the product name has been cut out and this is the base of the competition.  The last 3 questions are in the evening in the form of tunes being played and you have to guess the advert. Daniel & Natasha draw but Daniel wins the tie breaker of how many calories in a slice of wholemeal bread and this time wins a box of liquorice all sorts.  Steve stays up watching TV in the lounge but has a big problem coming home as it is very dark and he spends half an hour being lost in the forest.  That’s all he needs as he still has a cold and fells cold and shivery but at least we have extra duvets tonight.

YSS 2

 

MONDAY 25 MAY – Bank holiday Monday and surprisingly the weather is nice.  We spend a lot of time at the pool and the kids enjoy being able to sit in the Jacuzzi.  Late afternoon the weather changes and it rains in the evening. 

YSS 3

 

TUESDAY 26 MAY – We are all getting very lazy and don’t get up until 10am.  At North Point centre we go to the clinic to get Natasha’s stitches removed.  She is very brave and the nurse comments on what an excellent job was done on the stitching.  North Point is a good shopping centre so we stock up on food before returning for lunch.  As Natasha can now go in the pool properly we spend the whole afternoon up there.  Mark arrives with his children Ethan, 10, and Bethany, 8, so it is great for the kids to have someone to play with.   Andy & Chris call for a chat in the evening as they are going away.  Spend the evening watching TV in the clubhouse.

YSS 4

 

WEDNESDAY 27 MAY – It is a bit of a miserable morning so we decide to have a ride out to Hornsea and begin at the Freeport factory-shopping outlet.  The kids are most interested in the amusement arcade and have had so much fun they go in another one when we get to Hornsea seafront.  It’s really cold and blustery and with Steve still not feeling well we return for lunch.  The kids spend all afternoon in the swimming pool.

YSS 5

 

THURSDAY 28 MAY – We all spend the morning at the pool and I put in 50 lengths.  In the afternoon we leave Steve behind and go for a ride to visit John & Maureen in their bungalow in Wawne and then to North Point shopping centre.  Britain’s got talent has become our addictive TV viewing this week.

YSS 6

 

FRIDAY 29 MAY – It is a glorious day so we have an early swim.  My false nails are growing out and I have a heck of a job getting them off after soaking them in remover – never again.  I attempt to clean Mums car in the afternoon but the water keeps going off and it ends up looking worse than before I started.  Plenty of time for sitting out sunbathing in the afternoon.

YSS 7

 

SATURDAY 30 MAY – We drive to Auntie Pamela’s in Wakefield arriving around 11pm.  Whilst eating an early lunch we catch up on their news then take Mum with us to Bradford to rendezvous with Claire.  She is going to the Midlands to Aidans birthday party, taking Natasha with her and dropping Mum at home.  Daniel has opted to come back with us to Keighley.  It is another lovely day so I get loads of washing done.  Late afternoon we receive the Tesco grocery delivery that Claire ordered on line – very efficient. 

KEIGHLEY

 

SUNDAY 31 MAY – We drive round to visit Mom & Dad and find them both well.  There’s a car boot sale at Bracken Bank community centre and we walk down to it but other than enjoying the exercise it wasn’t worth it with only 2 stalls.  Claire arrives to pick up Daniel but we stay on for lunch and for me to defrost their freezer.  Early afternoon we go to town to check out divan beds with drawers.  I’ve seen some good deals on line but now realise that the quality of the drawers varies and you need to see them.  Whilst Claire takes Natasha swimming Steve and I set about clearing out Natasha’s room ready for decorating.  In between all this I make use of the Internet to book our bus, insurance and other things ready for Russia.  Not sure we could keep up this pace for too long.

KEIGHLEY 2

200905

 

FRIDAY 1 MAY 2009 – The next stage of the motorhome sale is for Keith to get a Texas safety inspection test.  Luckily there is a garage a couple of miles away and they do it instantly.  It cost around $40 (£28) and Harry passes with no problems.  The final hurdle is registration at the county offices.  In Harris County this is at the courthouse and the appropriate office has a huge queue.  I nip to the ladies toilet and am amazed to find it a single room complete with armchair – Louise declines my invitation to come in and wait!  They only take cash for vehicle transfers so I have to draw money from my ATM to give Keith enough for the fees.  At the desk the lady begins putting the info on the computer and once Keith has signed a form to show he has no social security number everything can be completed.  Keith is presented with a total bill for vehicle registration, number plates, taxes and transfer fees etc and that completes the deal.  Returning to the campground Tom Tom gets us a little lost and we end up driving through the attractive old town of Spring.  Louise is a hairdresser and gives me a super haircut and does my make up for our night out.  We drive to Tim’s, our host whom we previously stayed with.  Since we saw him he has done a hike into the Grand Canyon and a ski trip so we enjoy looking at his photos.  Goode Company BBQ (www.goodecompany.com) is our choice for a meal and it is as good as last time.  They serve lots of smoked meats in a canteen like setting with outdoor tables and we all enjoy our food.  After dropping Tim off we head to a nightclub in the hope of surprising Wayne & Sylvia and other HHH members who are going there.  The surprise is on us, as they don’t show up.  In fact the whole thing is a bit of a waste of time as hardly anyone is there and even when we leave just before midnight it is still not very lively. 

HOUSTON 3, SPRING OAKS

 

SATURDAY 2 MAY – Steve & I get up early to pack our things.  Spend a little time reviewing things with Keith & Louise.  After lunch we head off to check out the “Orange Show”.  It is one of Houston’s quirkier attractions but a bit of a let down.  Many years ago a guy bought the land opposite his house with the intention of creating a show to encourage people to eat more oranges.  He bought up anything old and cheap to build a sort of theatre with tractor seats and other oddities.  Unfortunately it hasn’t quite worked out but is preserved because it is a foundation connection to the art car festival.  We try to visit Heritage Park in the centre but again Tom Tom fails us and we miss the exit and need to do another complete circuit of the city to get back but decline and return home – or should I say to Keith & Louise’s motorhome.  After a final pack up we leave Harry for the last time to drive to China Bear restaurant to meet Ineke, Jos and their girls.  The buffet is excellent and good practice for the cruise.  It is only10 months since they emigrated from Holland but Mara 11 and Jona 8 are now speaking really good English, if only we could learn half as much as they as quickly I would be delighted.  When it is time to leave we transfer the luggage and wish Keith & Louise well for the travels.  No sooner have we arrived back at Ineke’s than I realise we have left Steve’s suit hanging up in Keith’s car.  Jos drives Steve over to the campground to retrieve it and when they get back they tell us that Keith & Louise were sat down watching “Last of the summer wine” on TV.  Mara has moved out to share Jona’s bedroom giving us a double bed for the night so we settle down to our first night of being homeless!

SPRING

 

SUNDAY 3 MAY – Jos hated his work here as a teacher so packed it in and now has 3 part time jobs.  Today he is doing a shift at Home Depot and heads off on his motorhome bike straight after breakfast.  Ineke suggests we might like to go with them to the local church “The Loft” (www.loftchurch.com).  It is not like anything we have ever been to before.  The location is more like a theatre with a coffee shop in the foyer and free coffee if you only want the basic stuff.  You are encouraged to takes your drinks into the auditorium with a huge stage set up like a concert.  Everyone is dressed very casually including the band and the pastor who arrives in jeans.  He makes a really funny introductory speech and then the band play a rock song with religious overtones.  The service continues with the theme about God offering unlimited Grace when we do things wrong.  He illustrates the point with a story of his own life and how as a San Diego city boy he struggled with the outdoors in the army and got addicted to pornography whilst training to be a pastor.  We really enjoy it and think that if more places were like this then probably far more people would go to church.  Ineke takes us back via the best 99c (70p) store we have ever been to, they even sell fresh fruit and veg.  I can’t resist some chunky jewellery and a few other things – in fact 17 items in all!  Ineke was bitten by a fire ant recently and her foot has swollen up so she decides to shelve the afternoon trip, which also suits us fine.  Shortly after Jos returns from work around 10pm we head to bed for Steve to try and sleep and me to clock watch.

SPRING 2

 

MONDAY 4 MAY – Ineke gives us a call at 5am and half an hour later is driving us to Houston Bush Intercontinental airport.  We’ve got on really well with the family and hope our paths cross again in the future.  We’ve done on line check in so after being dropped off we only have to find a place to leave the 1 bag that we couldn’t avoid checking in.  Continental now charge $15 (£12) for the first bag but allow 2 pieces of carry on and we have 5 items.  This is probably the largest amount of luggage we have ever travelled with and it is most uncomfortable.  We also don’t look the way we normally do, Steve has his suit on and I am wearing jeans and trainers in order to wear our bulkiest and heaviest things.  Our flight leaves at 7.30am.  2 hours later we land in Miami, 10.30am local time.  We need to get to the cruise port and can take the RCI shuttle at $15.80 each, Super Shuttle at $15 each or a taxi for $24.  No contest especially as we manage to share a cab with another couple.  As soon as we get out of the cab our bags are taken from us to be sent to our cabin.  Check in for the cruise is speedy and by noon we are enjoying our first buffet meal aboard the Royal Caribbean International ship Jewel of the seas.  It is strange to suddenly hear so many British accents.  Quite a few people have done this as a back-to-back cruise following 2 weeks cruise from Miami through the Panama Canal whilst others came over on the Queen Mary 2 to New York.  At 1pm we can go to our cabin, 4014, where we are impressed by its spaciousness including a sofa in a small lounge area.  The daily list of activities is quickly studied and priorities highlighted in true Swatour style!  2pm is a mingle and meet welcome meeting with a quiz that has you hunting places for answers and thus discovering what they offer on board.  You can get a free make up at the shop so I book one for before the first formal meal.  Next we do a full exploration of the ship, which seems huge. It has a large out door pool with 2 hot tubs, a beautiful solarium with pool and a smaller pool on the top deck.  There’s a cinema, games room and plenty of other things to keep us occupied.  To lure people to the beauty salon area they hold a raffle offering prizes for many of the different treatments they offer.  We can’t hear what the last offering is but hear our cabin number and Steve’s name called out.  Turns out he has won the “exotic aromaspa seaweed wrap” valued at $195 (£140).  He asks if I can take it instead and I am delighted to find it is for the seaweed body mask followed by a head and foot massage.  The prize must be taken on land days so I book it for after our day in Bermuda.  Are we off to a good start or what?  The Turkish bath and sauna are free to use and I hop on their scales to weigh in at 146 lbs.  The lifeboat drill takes place then at 5.30pm we set sail.  Leaving Miami is lovely as we head out along a channel past South Beach.  We find a small restaurant called “Seaview Café” and can’t resist having fish & chips and onion rings to “put us on”.  Our baggage still hasn’t been delivered but our cabin steward Tetiana from Ukraine assures us all the bags are on board and we will get ours soon.  We are very happy to receive them before going out for the evening as Steve feels over dressed and I feel under dressed.  We take up the offer of free liqueur sampling before the show that introduces the entertainment staff with a brief comedy act.  We’ve changed to 6pm early dining from tomorrow onwards but tonight dinner for us is at 8.30pm.  We are at a table of 10 with good company.  Jim & Jackie are next to us and we have a great chat.  I control myself and only have 2 desserts.  Last event of the evening for us is the trivia quiz and our team are joint winners but lose the tiebreaker.  Clocks go forward another hour tonight so with 2 time changes today we head to bed at midnight.

ROYAL CARRIBEAN INTERNATIONAL, JEWEL OF THE SEAS 1

SAILING FROM MIAMI TOWARDS BERMUDA

 

TUESDAY 5 MAY – We have a really good sleep.  I manage to show considerably more restraint than Steve at breakfast as he has 4 different lots.  At 10am we are in the cinema watching Wall E.  It is a Disney cartoon having a pop at the Americans style of living the theme being that they have had to leave earth to allow robots to clean up the trash whilst living in space and becoming totally sedentary and obese.  It has its moments but could be better and at one point I am the only person in our row that isn’t sleeping.  Sea life must make you sleepy as we return to our cabin for a nap but get disturbed by announcements; it is starting to feel like “Hi Di Hi”.  After lunch I sit by the pool whilst Steve goes to the art auction, mainly for the free champagne.  Swimming in the pool is rather strange as it is salt water and you get waves as the ship rocks.  I take up my free make up offer before getting changed for our first formal night.  This begins in the Safari Lounge with a cocktail party and introduction to the Captain and crew.  The Captain tells us there are just over 2000 passengers on board, 1100 have sailed with RCI before and come from 55 countries.  He also informs us that the crew come from 65 different countries.  In the dining room we are seated at a table of 12 and end up between 2 Yorkshire couples - Alan & Ike who have stayed on from the Panama cruise and Pat & Dave who came over on the Queen Mary 2.   From Scotland Lyn is on board with her Mum Margaret.  Alan & Christa are from Canada, and Louisa & Francois from Belgium.  Our waiter is Clifford from India and drinks waitress Benen from Turkey.  I lack restraint and end up ordering 3 desserts to everyone’s amazement.  Funny how others order 2 or 3 starters or main courses without anyone noticing but my dessert order creates quite a stir.   

RCI JEWEL OF THE SEAS 2

SAILING FROM MIAMI TOWARDS BERMUDA

 

WEDNESDAY 6 MAY – After breakfast we play a round of mini golf before settling down to sunbathe.  Late afternoon we sight land as we approach the islands of BERMUDA.  The ocean here is a most beautiful inky blue and the island looks really attractive.    It is around 4pm when we are allowed off ship into the attractive Docklands area.  At the tourist information we gather maps and guide books and begin our walk around.  It is already cold and windy and when it begins to rain we opt to return to the ship.  The evening show is a Frankie Valli and the Four Seasons tribute band called “The unexpected boys” and they are excellent.  After that we go to the disco for Motown hour. 

RCI JEWEL OF THE SEAS 3

BERMUDA

 

THURSDAY 7 MAY – We leave the ship to give us time to explore the docklands before catching the ferry to St George.  We’ve bought an all day bus and ferry pass for $12 (£8) but don’t have long enough to make the best use of it.  St George is really pretty.  There is no natural fresh water supply on the island so all the houses collect rainwater and store it in an underground tank.  To purify the water the roofs are white lime washed and this looks really pretty off set by pastel coloured walls.  Virtually every house is a different colour, which would look rather twee in England but works very well here.  We wander around the town with cobbled and narrow streets admiring the buildings.  There are lot of narrow alleys inviting exploration and we are happy to get lost whilst making our way to the unfinished church.  It takes almost an hour for us to go by bus to Hamilton and the journey is very interesting giving us chance to see more of the island.  Hamilton is the capital and the largest (in fact only) city.  Here we see businessmen in suits with Bermuda shorts and long socks.  In the City Hall there is a free art museum with a special display of painted motorcycles.  The cathedral looks rather strange being of British design but surrounded by palm trees.  We visit many nice parks and buildings but can’t linger long and hop on the South Road bus after an hour.  This time we get an overview of many fantastic pink beaches back by the beautiful blue ocean.  At the Docklands we visit the Snorkel Beach before boarding ship.  At 3.30pm I take the spa treatment Steve won.  Alexandria from Serbia is my beautician and she really wants to pick my brains about our travels doing things on the cheap.  She’s only 37 but her husband died a couple of year ago and now she is afraid to travel alone and not sure she can afford it.  Naturally I steer her in the right direction and recommend Lonely Planet and Rough Guides. Then we get down to business, I strip off and put on these black paper shorts – one size fits all and most inelegant, then lie on a table covered in foil.  Warm mud is plastered all over me then I am wrapped up like a turkey with a big duvet on top to keep me warm.  Whilst the seaweed and aromatherapy mixture takes effect I get a lovely head massage.  About 15 minutes later I clean up in the shower then lie face down for more massage.  This time it is my back and legs and so relaxing that the next thing I know I hear a bell jingling to wake me up.  I must have had a little extra treatment as it is after 5pm and should only have been a 75-minute session. Alexandria doesn’t have another client so I stay for another half hour chatting to her.  In the dining room it is Italian night with most of the food from there.  The evening show is an English man on the piano and he is very skilled but doesn’t manage much interaction with the audience.  Round of the day with the 10pm movie “Next” at the cinema.  For a ship of over 2000 passengers the cinema with around 50 seats is insufficient and many people end up sitting in the aisle or missing out.  Clocks forward another hour (BST –3).

JEWEL OF THE SEAS 4 – TRANSATLANTIC CROSSING

 

FRIDAY 8 MAY – What with all our activity and the time changes we don’t wake up until almost 10am.  Luckily breakfast is served until 11.30am.  In the cards room there is a backgammon championship but only 2 other players turn up so we just have a few games amongst ourselves.  Hang out by the pool enjoying the warm sun.  The afternoon movie “21” is fun and based in Las Vegas.  As Crown & Anchor (previous passengers) members we have a voucher for wine tasting saving us the $10 (£7) fee.  We get to sample 6 wines, all very expensive but none to our palate – is it possible to actually prefer cheap-boxed wine!!  A couple on our table amaze us saying they have been on 120 cruises as they live near a port and their travel agent gets them all the deals.  After thinking we had a great deal at $850pp it turns out others paid $600 and got a balcony room.  In America the best deals on this cruise seem to have been in January and February so we don’t feel too bad about it as we could not have booked that early.  The dinner table service is slackening off and after 1 hour 45 minutes we still haven’t seen the dessert menu and need to be at the Crown & Anchor member’s cocktail party.   Alcohol is very expensive on the ship so we have to grab all opportunities for free drink!  In the Coral Theatre tonight’s show is a young violinist, his playing is excellent but this is his first performance on a cruise ship and he is very nervous.  The final movie of the days is “Swing Voter” after which we retire and put our clocks forward yet again (BST – 2hours).

JEWEL OF THE SEAS 5 – TRANSATLANTIC

 

SATURDAY 9 MAY – I’m getting a little tired racing around to activities so have a lie in whilst Steve goes to breakfast then catch up on my diary when he goes to a quiz.  The good thing about cruising is that you can get food 24 hours a day so I can easily snack later.  During lunch on the deck we spot a tanker and a yacht, others see whales.  The afternoon comedy show is really funny with audience interaction almost taking over.  There’s a rock-climbing wall on board and I want to try it.  Having got all kitted out I find that my false nails are too long for me to use the handholds.  Few people turn up for the evening meal, the service is getting slower each day and we all agree the food isn’t quite up to expectations or other cruises.  After trivia we go to the show but they have changed it.  Bad weather is forecast so they are putting on the tango dancing tonight.  We sit out the first two dances then leave, as it doesn’t appeal to us.  The late Mr & Mrs style show is pretty funny though.  Clocks forward another hour (BST – 1 hour).  Reckon you get a better deal on the western transatlantic crossing adding an hour to each day!  Along with tomorrows programme there is a message in our cabin to say that people on board have been quarantined with chicken pox and it tells you what to look out for.

JEWEL OF THE SEAS 6 – TRANSATLANTIC

 

SUNDAY 10 MAY -             We are woken early with a repeated announcement “alpha alpha alpha to cabin …”.  Suspect this was not meant as a public message but in panic someone pressed the wrong button.  Over breakfast people guess that it was a medical emergency.  At the games room you can put your name on a list for the games you enjoy playing and I have been invited to join 3 other ladies for Canasta.  Americans Fran, Gail and Andrea are travelling together along with their husbands.  Their Canasta rules are almost completely different but I manage to get the hang of it sufficiently to be invited back for another game.  We’ve found out you can take lunch in the Tides formal dining room and we enjoy this better than the buffet.  You get table service, have a chance to chat to other passengers and the food seems tastier.  We try sitting out on deck by the pool but apart from wallowing in the hot tub we are chilly.  Many people look like they are on holiday in England wrapped up in blankets.  Settle for an afternoon in bed watching TV movies.   We do the buffet for our evening meal then trivia, show (a great singer) and Mr Bean on holiday movie to round off the day.  The ocean has been getting rougher throughout the day and we have a rather pleasant rock and roll.  Maybe worse is expected as sick bags have appeared throughout the ship but we think they are going over the top when we get back to our room and find a huge plastic laundry bag on the bed!

JEWEL OF THE SEAS 7 – TRANSATLANTIC

 

MONDAY 11 MAY – Hard to believe we have been on board for a week, the time has flown by and we are certainly not bored. Our daily routine is now getting up late, eating, doing trivia quizzes, lying by the pool and lounging in our room.  It is formal night again and I can see we may not be going to the next one as Steve can barely do up his suit trousers!  Brenda Cochrane from Scotland is the evening show performer.  She is a singer but also has a really funny rapport with the audience.  However the highlight of the day is the late evening entertainment of the game show “The Quest”.  We have arranged for our dining table members to make up our team.  The cruise director calls out for a male or female to bring an item to him and you are awarded points for doing so and extra for being in the first 3.  Steve & Alan look really funny skipping around the room together whilst I cop it to wriggle on the floor like a worm.  Everyone helps in someway including Margaret who loans her false teeth!  When a request goes out for a women to take up 2 pairs of men’s trousers Steve is unlucky in that JohnnyO keeps his and he has to go up alone at the end to collect them.  He also ends up being our team member to be dressed up like a women and strut around.    Our team come in 3^rd and end up with medals but couldn’t have cared less as we had such a fun night.

JEWEL OF THE SEAS 8 - TRANSATLANTIC

 

TUESDAY 12 MAY – I join the ladies for cards whilst Steve does the trivia.  By the time I finish it is time for the movie “Lucky you” so I end up having a picnic in the cinema.  Part way through is another “Alpha” call out, the second today.  We are now picking up British TV so spend late afternoon in bed watching “Fawlty Towers” and “Allo Allo”.  The evening show is cruise director “JohnnyO” who plays the EWI (Electronic wind instrument).   It is like an electric organ and can imitate numerous different instruments.  During the show he tells the story of his life accompanied by significant songs.  The late entertainment is “Battle of the sexes” but it is not as funny as “The Quest” and we end up in the smoking section of the Safari Room so leave early.

JEWEL OF THE SEAS 9 - TRANSATLANTIC

 

WEDNESDAY 13 MAY – When we wake up we are docked in Lisbon PORTUGAL.  For once we get up early and by 8.30am set foot on dry land for the first time since last Thursday.  The ship have organised a shuttle bus, $6 (£4.20) to take you to the city centre.  Armed with a map from the tourist office we set off to explore.  We visited Lisbon in 1997 but concentrated on the Belem area.  Today on foot we want to explore the centre and begin heading from Praca de Comercio to San Sebastio.  The 1902 street lift is very impressive as are a number of squares with fine buildings.  Returning along a parallel side street full of theatres and restaurants we stop to look inside “Casa do Alentejo”.   From the outside it looks insignificant but inside the restaurant is done in Moorish style with lots of small restaurant rooms with walls decorated in ceramic murals, most impressive.  There are many electric cars in use here but it is still a shock to see the Police driving round in an electric golf cart style vehicle.  We both struggle to find our land legs and find it a hard climb up to the castle, made worse by getting lost and having to walk up and down numerous staircases.   We have really enjoyed wandering around but feel quite weary so catch a local bus, Euro 1.40 (£1.20) back to the ship.  Manage to get off one stop too soon and end up walking through the dockyards but Steve is happy as we pass a workers canteen where he gets a bottle of Sagres beer for Euro 1 (90p), a bargain after paying $6 (£4.20) on board for an inferior brew.  I feel quite queasy so spend the afternoon in bed whilst Steve sunbathes on deck.  Set sail around 4.30pm and we both stand on deck to watch our passage out along the river.  Feel almost envious of the motorhomes parked on the banks of the river.  Service in the Tides dining room is getting very slow (over 2-hours for a 3 course meal) so tonight we eat buffet style at the Windjammer.  The Extreme Vegas show is quite good with some magic, juggling and audience participation. 

JEWEL OF THE SEAS 10, LISBON

 

THURSDAY 14 MAY – Today’s port is Vigo in SPAIN.  Again we have toured the area in our motorhome so settle for a wander round the hilly town.  The weather is poor and once we have climbed up to the castle it begins to rain.  We thought we had wrapped up for the cooler weather but by the time we get back I am wet and shivering.  I go straight to bed whilst Steve spends the afternoon eating, doing quizzes and reading.  Not sure what is wrong with me but it is evening 8.30pm showtime before I get up.  Steve went to the earlier show and left after about 10 minutes.  City of Dreams has great sets and costumes but much of the singing is screechy opera style and not to my liking but I do sit it through.  Head to the Card Room and realise how week I am when I am overtaken by someone with a zimmer frame.  Round of the evening with a game of Euchre with Alan and Christa.

JEWEL OF THE SEAS 11, VIGO

 

FRIDAY 15 MAY – Our final day at sea and last chance for on board activities.  We have had a rough nights sailing and it is still a bit choppy but I am feeling much better and ready for action.  Steve is finally on a winning trivia team (they have been up as tie breakers many times but lost).  I don’t like being in the same team as him as one of the guys takes it too seriously.  British immigration officers have boarded the ship and throughout the day we take turns to clear customs.  Apparently there will be nothing more at Harwich so you can take in virtually anything on the basis that you are limited by how much you can carry.  Our final formal night and Steve must have lost a bit of weight as his trousers now fit!  Alan & Ika are absent and we are upset when she arrives and tells us Alan is ill with a lung infection and has been on a drip.  Judging by the number of “alpha” calls this sailing we have had a lot of illnesses on board and at least one death.  Guess this is a reflection on the age of the passengers and the duration of the cruise.  The “Soul Sensation” show is excellent, all our kind of music.  This is followed by the talent show with some great singers plus a comedian.

JEWEL OF THE SEAS 12 – AT SEA VIGO TO CHERBOURG

THURSDAY 16 APRIL – We park up by the laundry and get started on the washing.  It costs $1.75 (£1.50) to wash and $1.50 (£1.05) for a dryer.  1 ½ later we have done 3 loads of washing and 2 dries and now have everything up to date including the spare bedding for Harry’s new owners.  We do our last grocery shop at Port Lavaca Wal Mart then head towards Houston.  We stop in Palacios for lunch and make use of the free dump station in City Park.  Bay City has a Wal Mart where we can spend the night.  The parking area down the side is by a grassy park and looks very peaceful.  It is until about 5pm when trains start hurtling through about 50 feet from us.  Luckily they only run until about 10pm and go quiet in the night.

BAY CITY WAL MART

74 MILES

 

FRIDAY 17 APRIL – Other than a bit of rain pattering on the roof we have had one of our quietest Wal Mart nights to date.  Unfortunately the weather forecast is poor and we are heading to a naturist resort.  Natural Horisuns is easy to find near the village of Boling.  Resident Randy shows us around and we manage to get set up before the rain begins.  There’s a nice outdoor pool, hot tub and clubhouse with TV lounge.  On the TV they are showing area warnings for flash floods, heavy rain and tornadoes but we seem to be in an area on the edge of almost all of them.  Other than nipping out for a shower between showers we stay in the van.  The evening news shows areas near here with heavy snow and hail stones so we have got off lightly.

NATURAL HORISUNS, NR BOLING - $120 (£85) week + metered electric

28 MILES

 

SATURDAY 18 APRIL – We’ve had a few showers through the night but things get much worse during the day with torrential downpours and low light.  So much for us being at a naturist resort and outside cleaning Harry up!  When I open the bedroom blind the cord snaps and it drops shut so another job to add to our list.  Late morning when I put the kettle on to boil the socket doesn’t work and we then notice that the circuit breaker on the bathroom socket has popped out.  Exploring to find about the problem I notice wet in our bedroom and realise that I had just opened the bedroom window when the blind fell shut and I had forgotten to close it.  However compared to the people on the news who have flooded homes we are doing OK and it is a huge downpour that we get.

NATURAL HORISUNS 2

 

SUNDAY 19 APRIL – What a difference a day makes and we wake to a very nice morning.  I soon have the blind restrung and one of the members called Slim is an Electrician and offers to help with the socket problem.  He works out that it is connected to an outdoor socket that has got damp in the rain so easy to put right and a bit of silicone will prevent future problems.  In the evening everyone gathers at the clubhouse for George’s famous ribs.  He cooks them to a family recipe and they are the best ribs we have ever had.  People bring along side dishes and we sit with Slim and his wife Lucy and meet other members Charles, Sandy, Berth & Steve and Cille. 

NATURAL HORISUNS 3

 

MONDAY 20 APRIL – Considering we have been doing odd jobs for the last week or so there is still a lot to do.  As I go through each cupboard I put the things we want to take over the cab and can soon see that we are going to have package problems. Accustomed to travelling light it will quite a novelty for us to check in baggage and look like a proper tourist when we board the cruise ship!  We both work hard but break at 3pm to sit by the pool.  Slim & Lucy have an Internet card and offer us use of it so we do a quick message check and time our visit to them felling a dead tree.  Unfortunately Slims plan to tie the tree to his truck, to ensure the direction of the fall by driving off, backfires as the rope is too short and the branches land on the back of his truck.  

NATURAL HORISUNS 4

 

TUESDAY 21 APRIL – Another hot day and more jobs to do.  Again break off for late afternoon by the pool.  One of the members comes over to see the work we are doing on Harry and comments that he thought it was a new vehicle so obviously our hard work has paid off.

NATURAL HORISUNS 5

 

WEDNESDAY 22 APRIL – Now down to the odd jobs I defrost the fridge and freezer then join Slim & Lucy for a ride to Wharton Wal-Mart.  They take me on a scenic route through town where there is a most attractive courthouse.  Steve stays behind to finish polishing before it gets too hot.  Usual afternoon by the pool including a few cooling dips.

NATURAL HORISUNS 6

 

THURSDAY 23 APRIL – Lucy has a washing machine and dryer in their trailer and offers me use of it.  We continue past their place to walk the nature trail and spot a deer in the woods.  Onto the last leg of the jobs we are a little disappointed that it is a cloudy day as we planned to spend most of it topping up our tans.  Late afternoon I manage to gather a few people by the pool for a photo shoot to go with my TAN article.  Our last night alone in the motorhome and last night in the queen sized bed as we are going to let Keith & Louise use it when they arrive. 

NATURAL HORISUNS 7

 

FRIDAY 24 APRIL – Time to move off and our journey should take less than 1 hour to Brookshire but with our exploratory detour it takes 1-¾ hours.  Arrive at 12.15 and passing Orlando’s Pizza we can’t resist their $4.99 (£3.50) buffet.  There are salads, pasta and 12 different savoury pizzas and 3 dessert pizzas so it is great value.  Finally arrive at Wayne & Sylvia’s, we visited in October so it is great to see them both again as they have the day off work.  Catch up on recent news then take them out to a new Mexican restaurant nearby for a meal.  With Internet at our disposal we check out flights to Russia and get a good deal with Austrian Airlines via Vienna.  The flights are actually only £2 but with taxes come to £129 each and we go on 11^th June so another trip to look forward to.

BROOKSHIRE, WAYNE & SYLVIA’S

 

SATURDAY 25 APRIL – We enjoy a cooked breakfast of scrambled eggs, bacon and biscuits with delicious gravy – actually a creamy sausage sauce.  Sounds like we just got out of Mexico in time, as swine flu is becoming a major problem there.  After lunch we head off to Houston for the Healthy Hides of Houston toga party.  Felix and Ernie (Ernestine) have a lovely private property with pool, spa and games room so perfect for a gathering.  Having been to one of their parties last year we recognise a number of people and also make new friends.  With tons of food even with a small helping of everything leaves us overeating (good practice for the cruise!).  The fancy dress parade is really funny with some very innovative costumes.  It is almost 1am when we arrive back.

BROOKSHIRE 2

 

SUNDAY 26 APRIL – We don’t wake up until 9.30am then spend the day pottering around.  Sylvia offers to merge my laundry with hers and does a fantastic job sorting it all and processing it correctly unlike myself who chucks it all in together.  Having got the cheap flights to Moscow and a host lined up we are frustrated to find out how expensive and complicated the visa situation is – guess that is why few people go their independently but we’ll figure it out.  In the evening we play Mexican Train with Wayne & Sylvia’s rules and find it a little less challenging with the version using the doubles as a block but still fun.

BROOKSHIRE 3

 

MONDAY 27 APRIL – Wayne leaves for work early so he can fit 10 days hours into 9 days and have alternate Fridays off.  Sylvia doesn’t leave until 8.30am so we get to see her.    We are really tight on luggage space to do a mock pack and find we can just about squeeze in everything we need and don’t have enough left over to warrant buying another bag and paying $15 to check it in.  In the afternoon a storm begins to brew and by the time Wayne arrives back around 5pm we have torrential rain and lots of wind.  Sylvia phones to say she will be late so just Wayne joins us in Harry for a Chinese meal.  As the evening progresses the storm worsens so we are all glad to see Sylvia arrive home safely.  Spend the evening doing a quick slide show of our Mexican trip; already I have forgotten so much of what we did. 

BROOKSHIRE 4

 

TUESDAY 28 APRIL – The storm wakes us all up and at 4.30am it is like a hurricane with garden chairs having been blown into the pool.  There’s a bit of a lull and Steve dashes out to check that Harry is OK and is pleased to find no leaks.  When we get up later we learn that a tornado passed this way at 4.30am so that was probably the worst of the storm.  Many areas of Houston are flooded and people are trapped in their homes.  They are saying it is worse than the hurricane Ike so we are lucky to have escaped with no real damage.  We are surprised to find a damp area on the carpet in Harry, as there is no evidence of rain coming in.  Eventually we figure it must be from when Steve dashed out to check the van and the water ran off him onto the floor then pooled in one area – he was like a drowned rat when he got back into the house.  The weather picks up and we have a few spells in the afternoon when we can sit out sunbathing.  Wayne arrives home and brings 3 juicy steaks that he cooks on the
BBQ.  Tonight Sylvia gets back sooner than anticipated so she could have eaten with us.  Enjoy our last game of Mexican Train together.

BROOKSHIRE 5

 

WEDNESDAY 29 APRIL – We are sad to be leaving our friends again as the time has flown by and we haven’t even managed to fit in a dip in their hot tub or a game of petanque.  Our journey towards Spring takes us out in the country where fields have become lakes and small lanes are like rivers.  At the Wal Mart store I treat myself to solar nails ready for the cruise.  I’ve never had it done before and am fascinated by the process.  The beautician is a Vietnamese man who used to be a computer technician!  To begin with my nails are smoothes and filed down then really long tips are glued on.  These are cut shorter and a sort of pink paste is applied to the bottom half of my nails, smoothed then cut into the correct shape.  On the tips a sparkly white paste is blending onto this.  Much filing and polishing follows but I do end up with some really nice looking nails for $32 (£23).  Spring Oaks RV park is only a couple of miles down the road and we have booked on for 1 week, $150 (£100), to enable Keith & Louise to deal with registering Harry etc.  This is our final trip in Harry and I tot up that we have covered 22713 miles in 22 ½ months so pretty much bang on the 1000 miles a month as usual.  The wi-fi at the park is not working but receptionist Linda is very helpful and offers us use of the office computer.  On the TV news they say the first death in America to swine flu has occurred with a toddler dying in Houston.  At 5pm we get a text to say Keith & Louise are here and just off to pick up the hire car.  They arrive just after 6pm and we are soon showing them around.  Keith is struggling with flu and coupled with jet leg is finding it hard to take everything in.  We have a few snacks then to keep him awake for a little longer, and to practice driving, we suggest a trip to the Wal-Mart.  It works for a short time but they are both asleep in the bedroom within minute of returning.

SPRING CREEK MOBILE HOME PARK, $150 (£100) WEEK

51MILES

 

THURSDAY 30 APRIL – Keith & Louise are awake early so once Steve and I wake around 7am we get up and sit out having breakfast and talking things through.  A few people walk past and everyone is really friendly and stops to chat.  On the computer we complete the balance of the sale using an instant UK bank transfer.  As part of the sale deal with have offered to help them getting the van on the road so our first task is to get Keith an American drivers licence for cheaper insurance.  Rather than face Houston traffic we suggest going to nearby Conroe after buying a Tom Tom navigator from Wal Mart.  We get bad news at the driving test office, under new rules Keith cannot take a driving test in America on his B2 tourist visa and is also told he can’t even drive on his British licence on an International Driving Permit.  This is a huge problem as IDP’s can only be bought in your country of residence whilst you are there.  However reasoning that Keith had already hired a car using his British licence this does not add up.  Call in at Best Buy for them to buy a laptop then back to the campground for a re think.  On the computer I fill in an application for Keith’s insurance through Progressive using the section for him to enter a foreign drivers licence (no mention of an IDP). Surprisingly even with the British licence the premium is only around $670 (£500), so not even worth the hassle of Keith taking the American test.   We are trying to meet up with our friend Tim but the office with the phone is closed.  Neighbour John offers us use of his mobile and comes round for a chat.  I cook my last meal in Harry, chilli pasta that we eat at the picnic table.

HOUSTON 2, SPRING OAKS

 

200904

 

WEDNESDAY 1 APRIL 2009 – We have a very quiet night with just the occasional donkey braying to disturb us.  Our plan is to set off across country tomorrow to avoid the rush traffic for the beginning of the Semana Santa holiday this weekend.  We’ve still got some vegetables left and cannot take raw ones into the States so spend an hour or so preparing them for the freezer but also doing a batch of home made potato crisps, most of which we eat during the manufacturing process.  Cruise ship of the day is or should I say are Sapphire Princess and RCI Mariner of the Seas.  There’s a big hill at the end of the peninsula and we climb this to get superb views in all directions.  Throughout the day we see the tourists doing horse rides along the beach, quad biking, water sports and walks around the island. 

ISLA DE LA PIEDRA 3, BENJIS

 

THURSDAY 2 APRIL – We are up just before 6am ready for our big journey.  It’s not that we have a really long drive towards Durango but it is on very twisty mountain roads.  It takes almost an hour to get to the start of Mex 40 and sure enough we begin climbing and winding our way into the Sierra Madre almost immediately.  The road is good with lots of lorries using this route but progress is slow and the driving tedious.  We pass one Quebec camper en route.  There are far reaching views but nothing spectacular to see.  We pass the Tropic of Cancer at 1700m then reach the summit and cross into DURANGO state around 2620m complete with military checkpoint (clocks forward 1-hour).  We are now on a plateau with stretches of excellent new road going through the pine forest and logging the main industry.  Billboards tell us that the development of the next 45km will include 38 tunnels and 34 bridges.  Around km 57 we stopped at Parque El Tequan.  Signs tell us it is open Thursday – Sunday from 8am – 10pm but we still have to shout through the gate to be let in even though it is 12.30pm.  For P50 (£2.50) we can stay overnight and we walk around before picking an area at the lower level by the basketball court and near the chalets.  After lunch we are ready for a nap.  When I set out for a late walk I find that the Quebec camper van is here and parked further along as they have a 4wd truck.  Even with that the road leading to the dried up lake was too bad for them to continue.  Jacques & Jeanne are very interesting people.  She is Belgian and was raised in Belgian Congo and he is French but they moved to Quebec 50 years ago.  They still have a motorhome in France and have take it down to Morocco and other north African countries and have taken this camper all through South America so lots of inspiration for us.  Our days are now numbered so we start to work out way through our DVD’s and watch a Barbara Cartland “The Lady and the Highwayman after supper.

PARQUE EL TEQUAN, KM 57 MEX 45 – P50 (£2.50)

165 MILES

 

FRIDAY 3 APRIL – It has been a really cold night and is still only just above freezing when we wake up so we get chance to give the central heating a run.  As Jacques & Jeanine are leaving they tell us it went down to –4C.  We really like it here; it is so quiet and the only noise in the night was the occasional distant truck using air brakes.  In reverse of recent days when we have sat out in the morning before it got too hot here we are sit in for the morning until it warms up then outside in the afternoon but boy is it hot then.  One car comes in to check the place out but other than that we have the place to ourselves unless you count all the deer in the enclosure. 

PARQUE EL TEQUAN 2

 

SATURDAY 4 APRIL – Today is the start of the main Mexican holiday but we can’t get on the road early, as the park gates don’t open until 8am.  The by pass round Durango is excellent and we pick up the free road to take us across country with comparatively little traffic.   The “periferico” around the tri cities of Ciudad Lerdo, Gomez Palacio and Torreon is good and fast although there is a lot of traffic.  We are now in COAHUILA state, along with Durango sited by the Americans as dangerous places to be!  We stick with the free road and this merges with the main road in many places.  It is easy driving on good roads across a flat barren landscape with lots of saltpans, much like central Australia.  Heading towards Saltillo on the free road we hope to find a place to stay overnight.  The hotel in Saltillo is our banker but time is against us.  Options are very limited with just roadside parking by very poor housing communities.  Truckers are using these places but we’ve learnt they often just stop for a few hours so we could be left alone and safety is our primary concern.  We are very happy to see the only Pemex en route about 50km before Saltillo.  It’s 6.15pm so we take it and settle in at the back of the parking area.  The gas station closes from 11pm to 7am but the attendant lives here and tells us truckers usually park up as well so we feel safe. 

PEMEX, 50KM BEFORE SALTILLO ON FREE ROAD

344 MILES

 

SUNDAY 5 APRIL – With our 7.15am start we are around Saltillo before any traffic builds up.  Good job too as the signs for Monterrey are terrible, you have to turn off the ring road but the signs are at the bottom of the off ramp.  Call in for a last shop at Soriana only to be disappointed when they refuse to sell me booze on a Sunday.   Enter the state of NUEVO LEON and make good progress until the Monterrey ring road where we miss a sign (or there was a sign missing), overshoot and have to double back.  Last year we paid to use the toll road towards Laredo but know it was very expensive so opt for the free road.  All goes well until we reach Sabinas Hidalgo with a diversion from the main road.  This leads us right into the centre of the bustling little town on small roads but with no signs to get us out.  We keep asking directions and with great difficulty make it back on track.  Enter our last Mexican state; TAMULIPAS then pick up the road out to the Columbia Bridge exit point west of Nuevo Laredo.  It’s fairly busy with lots of Mexicans heading into the States for holiday week.  Leaving the Mexican side is easy as they have a booth where they remove your vehicle sticker after checking that you are taking out the same things you brought in – laptops, TV’s etc.  After turning in our tourist cards at the office and paying P50 (£2.50) bridge toll we cross the Rio Grande to the USA.  Getting through with the vehicle is easy including a sniffer dog check and so far we have only been about ½ hour in total.  The final hurdle is American immigration where we queue up and then fill in the Visa waiver forms.  At the desk they ask us lots of questions but we were prepared for this after our last entry difficulties.  This time they really get stuck in and accuse us of living at our friends Texas address.  Worse is to come when they ask for our drivers licence as there are now special Texas visitors’ licences but when Steve got his back in 2002 we were issued with a residents licence.  They imply that we obtained the drivers licence under false pretences so we have to explain exactly how we went about getting it.  There are 3 officers on our case and talk of refusing us entry and sending us back to Mexico but we explain that we have sold our motorhome and have a flight and cruise booked out of the States.   They then ask us for our vehicle registration documents which are in the motorhome.  Steve goes off to get them but my mind then goes into a panic imagining us trying to explain why the vehicle is registered in Florida with our friends Miami address.  A computer printout shows them all the times we have visited the States and I talk the officer through the scenarios and explain that on our last entry it should have been logged on the computer what our ongoing plan was.  The offices huddle together talking our scenario through and seem to reach a decision before Steve gets back.  Fortunately they agree to grant us entry with a 3-month stay.  All that is left is for our 4 fingers then thumb to be fingerprinted and a photo taken before paying $6 (£4) each visa charge.  Welcome back to America!  So we are now in TEXAS and suddenly find our clocks have gone forward an hour for daylight saving time so it’s after 5pm before we leave the border.  Realise now that I definitely made the right decision not to go back for my sisters wedding as re entering twice would have been must too much for them.  The exchange rate is now around $1.40 = £1 and the first gas we see is $1.89 (1.30) gallon.  Luckily we have a free camping spot in mind; the Texas Welcome centre at junction 18 on the I35 and it’s a great spot.  We’re too late for the visitor centre but they have free wi-fi and a nice seating area in gardens complete with pretty pools.  We chat to some truck drivers and learn that the new vehicles are so automated that the engines must be left running at all times for cab temperature control.  On hearing this we clear it with the rest area security guard so we can park where the cars go.  Not sure whether this was a good move or not as just after settling down to sleep we realise we are right beside a railway.  Between midnight and 1am 3 noisy trains go past and this is why I am now sat up at 1.15am writing my diary!  At least trains in Mexico never bothered us – they don’t have any.  I do some figures out of interest and find out our time in Mexico averaged out at £125 week, that’s for food, meals out, sightseeing, petrol and everything.  Within this figure is the Central America 2-week trip and there we spent £500 in 2 weeks so the real Mexico figure is even lower and what a great time we had as well. 

NORTH OF LARDEO, I35, EXIT 18 TEXAS WELCOME CENTRE REST AREA

270 MILES 

 

MONDAY 6 APRIL – Claire’s birthday so we are happy to be able to chat with her on Skype.  She’s off work for 2 weeks partly because it is the school holidays but she is also studying for her Chartered Accounts exam next month.   Leaving the freeway we are impressed by how little traffic there is on the minor roads, how smooth the road surface is and how quiet it is inside Harry.  Stopped at a junction we cannot even hear the engine running.  Although distances are now marked in miles we seem to travel them faster than the same in kilometres in Mexico because the roads are so good and there are no topes to bring us to a halt in the towns.  In Beeville we do a Wal Mart grocery shop, it’s actually quite hard not to stock up as there is such a wide choice of stuff compared to Mexico but with only 3 weeks to go I have to show some restraint.  I’ve been having problems with my new laptop and Victoria is the nearest major city with a Best Buy so we aim for there and are impressed by the RV Park on the edge of town.  It’s a grassy area by a stream at the edge of the City Park and only $12 (£8.50) night with full hook ups.  It is now light until around 8pm so we potter around outside until that time.  Then with unlimited water and electric I use the kettle for hot water to do lots of inside cleaning jobs.  Digital TV did not begin in February as planned and so we wind up the evening watching telly.

VICTORIA RV PARK - $12 (£8.50)

209 MILES

 

TUESDAY 7 APRIL – We want to go back to Mexico, can’t handle the cold nights and last night was almost freezing.  Once the day warms up we get the hose going and give Harry a good clean outside and what a difference it makes.  Head off along Navarro, the main road with big stores and Malls.  Best Buy admits there is a problem with my laptop screen but would have to send it back to Toshiba and it would be away for at least 2 weeks.  The only solution is for them to fill out a fault report form so I can deal with it back in England.  By dropping into different stores we manage to get many of our odd jobs done.  A few small things broke in Mexico and it was just a matter of getting the right parts to fix them up.  Surprisingly the running around takes all afternoon so we return to the RV Park to take in the last of the sun.  We are happy that it is less cold in the evening and night so maybe we will stay!

VICTORIA RV PARK 2

20 MILES

 

WEDNESDAY 8 APRIL – Heading off just before lunchtime we stop at Pizza Hut to partake in their $5.99 (£5 inc tax) buffet lunch and as usual manage to overeat.  Coming out of Mexico our attention is immediately drawn to the amount of obese people in America, especially at the all you can eat buffets!  We move on to “Buffalo Wings” car park as it is a sport bar showing the Liverpool match.  Whilst Steve spends him money in the bar I head to the shops to pick up a few new clothes for our cruise back to England.  It is easy to lose track of time in the Malls, as they are somewhat like casinos with no natural light and few clocks.  Consequently Steve is back before me and not a happy bunny after they lost.  Even worse the waitress chose the moment Liverpool scored to come over and chat to him so he missed the goal and the replay!  Wal Mart will do us for overnight; the number of RV’s surprises us. They are all from Quebec and gathered together for a happy hour with their chairs set up in the car park, in our opinion abusing the hospitality offered by Wal Mart.  I manage to buy a few more clothes in the store to complete my new wardrobe and now just need shoes.  At this stage Steve knows he needs stuff but just can’t be bothered to shop for it.

VICTORIA 3, WAL MART

 

THURSDAY 9 APRIL – We’ve done all we wanted and more in Victoria so head off to the coast to Magnolia Beach.  Again the place is full of predominantly Quebec vehicles.  Unfortunately it is extremely windy and not so pleasant to be outside plus the mosquitoes are a bit of a problem.  On the other hand we have a lovely view and the price is right.

MAGNOLIA BEACH

47 MILES

 

FRIDAY 10 APRIL – The wind dropped in the night and it is a glorious morning.  It is Good Friday an American holiday and many families arrive to camp at the beach.  They come towing boats and jet skis for a fun day in the water.  There are loads of people camped up here and we’ve walked around but not seen anyone we knew.  However we missed Paula who comes over to chat to us, we met her and Serge at Tenacatita Beach in Mexico.  The rest of the people here have been too afraid to go into Mexico so spend winter in the south of the USA.  They don’t know what they are missing!

MAGNOLIA BEACH 2

 

SATURDAY 11 APRIL – It is windy again so we take a walk into Magnolia.  This is a really strange town that doesn’t seem to know whether it is coming or going.  The store and gas station have closed down but a laundrette has opened in a hut and plots of land are being marked out for sale.  Many people seem to move here in their RV and then build onto it.  By the time we get back many of the motorhomers have left and it is much quieter other than Linda from Thunder Bay who comes round for a chat.

MAGNOLIA BEACH 3

 

SUNDAY 12 APRIL – The weather has got worse and we’ve had a little rain in the night and wake to a dull drizzly morning.  A few families brave it and are rewarded when things improve dramatically and we end up with a superb hot afternoon with clear blue skies.  There are 2 Mexican families, from Victoria, next to us and they entertain us with their Easter egg hunt and deliver some eggs to us.  The family business is making tacos and this uses lots of eggs.  For the last few weeks they have been careful removing the egg through just a small hole.  Having washed the eggs they decorated them, stuffed them with a type of confetti and sealed the top with tissue.  During Easter they go up to people and pretend to crack the egg on their heads at which point all the confetti flies out.  It is so hot in the afternoon that we have to keep going to the water for a cooling dip.  At one point a dolphin can be seen swimming out in the bay and late afternoon we see a couple of oilrigs being towed into Port Lavaca.

MAGNOLIA BEACH 4

 

MONDAY 13 APRIL – We sure are getting a mixed bag of weather here.  Today we have clear skies and sun but with wind coming along the shore.  Someone who stayed here all winter said it had been cold but at least they hadn’t any rain.  A local tells us they have a small problem here with mosquitoes in the summer – from March to December!  Still we manage a few hours sat out sunbathing in the afternoon.

MAGNOLIA BEACH 5

 

TUESDAY 14 APRIL – Many more vans leave and we are now down to single figures.  Get on with a few more clean up jobs; the outdoors furniture sure gets grim.  Manage to get on the Internet in the evening, the nearby campground has wi-fi and the password is their phone number!

MAGNOLIA BEACH 6

 

WEDNESDAY 15 APRIL – Usual day bit of cleaning bit of sunbathing, lots of doing nothing.  Linda & Brian leave, they look like a convoy as they have a truck towing a 5^th wheel towing a boat, in total of about 54’.  They make us laugh when they say they have only used the boat once all winter. 

MAGNOLIA BEACH 7

 

200903

 

SUNDAY 1 MARCH 2009 – Heading further up the coast we get a great view from the “mirador”.  Zihuatanejo is a traditional fishing village and now linked to Ixtapa, a purpose built tourist resort.  We go for the former and stop off to do a bit of shopping before heading to Playa La Ropa.  There are a few camping options here but El Manglar is full and just a basic parking area for which they ask P300 (£15), Casa Bella opposite is also full.  Between them is a private house and we are waved into their walled garden to park up for P100 (£5).  David says we are fine there overnight.  It is his birthday so lots of friends are around celebrating with a meal.  Although we cannot see the beach it is just a short walk away and we are amazed to see just how busy and touristy it is.  All kinds of water sports are on offer, restaurants run along the back between hotels and vendors keep walking around.  There must be hundreds of people on the beach, a far cry from yesterday when it didn’t even get into double figures.  Settle down with Sandra on the lounger in the full sun, Steve in the half shade and me under an umbrella.  Sandra is whacked from the walks we have done so Steve and I stroll around the large bay.  We all take a few dips in the ocean, easier to get in and out but still with a few sneaky waves.  David whose garden we are in also has a small restaurant and we order our evening meal from him.  He sets up a table for 3 complete with tablecloth and miniature orange tree decoration.  Unlike the tourist beach restaurants we only pay P45 (£2.25) for mahi mahi fish, sticky rice, tomatoes, onions, beans and tortillas and P60 (£3) for 12 prawns with the same accompaniments.  We’ve tired Sandra out again so she has an evening nap whilst Steve and I take a stroll to the beach to be amazed by the sheer number of lights around. 

ZIHUATANEJO, DAVIDS GARDEN, P100 (£5)

59 MILES

 

MONDAY 2 MARCH – We manage an 8.30am start but within a couple of hours Sandra is snoozing on the sofa, think the morphine patches are knocking her out.  Near Lazaro Cardenas we pass a huge British steel works with a canal linking it to the shipping port.  Cross into MICHOCAN state as we drive over a dam with nice river views.  Heading up the coast there are lots of really nice beaches.  Most of them are small ones backed by palms or little coves with rocks.  Caleta De Campos is famous as the best place for the seasonal phenomenon of the green ocean.  If conditions are right the ocean glows a bright luminous green and if you go swimming you come out covered in green sparkles.  Having driven down the new road to town we turn left and head to the last restaurant behind the beach to park up for P50 (£2.50).  This is a total contrast to yesterday with just a handful of Mexicans on the beach.  At low tide you can walk all the way around the bay.  The sand is white but mixed with an olive green hue.  At one end there are a few surfers but this is not the main surfing season. I make up pina colada for us to enjoy before sunset.  Although we are in the right season for the green spectacle conditions are obviously not right as there is nothing to be seen, maybe a full moon would have worked better. 

CALETA DE CAMPOS – FREE

110 MILES

 

TUESDAY 3 MARCH – When we come to pay the restaurant lady she won’t accept any money so Steve gives a coin to her son and a gift.  The coastal Mex 200 continues to reward us with fantastic scenery, a bit like the Great Ocean Road in Australia.  As well as running along the coast it frequently veers inland up into the mountains meaning lots of twists and turns.  Sandra suffers with travel sickness so ends up lying down again.  It takes just over 2-hours to reach Maruata where we find a restaurant parking spot behind one of the beaches.  Sandra cooks up beef bourguignon for lunch and is surprised that the lovely looking meat is to my expectations of being rather chewy.   Exploring the beach we find that we are in an area with numerous small beaches surrounding a rocky outcrop.  There are many holes in the rocks and crevices that roar with the incoming waves.  Further east we reach the western end of the main beach with a small river where the fishing boats anchor.  You can get really close to the birds here as they scavenge for fish scraps.  This beach is much calmer for swimming.  The naval base backs the middle of the beach where a couple of Canadians are also free camped.  Spend the rest of the afternoon with Sandra sunbathing, Steve mixing beach with shade and me by the motorhome. 

MARUATA BEACH – FREE

64 MILES

 

WEDNESDAY 4 MARCH – Seem to be managing an 8.30am start to the day’s journeys, which is pretty good with 3 of us.  It is early in the day when we stop to check out the American owned campground Rancho Bougainvillea at km196.  It’s a pretty hillside setting but regimented sites with vehicles close together and a bit of a walk down to the beach.  They want P210 (£10.50) for dry camping so all in all not a great option for us.  At the border into COLIMA state we get the army inspection inside the vehicle.  They look in lots of our cupboards but don’t do an efficient enough inspection to have found anything that we may have wanted to hide.  We suddenly find ourselves on a very good, wide flat road and can now maintain 80kph for more than a few yards.  We take the free road and turn off to the Mexican beach resort of Cuyutlan.  There’s a turtle sanctuary at the southern end and the P25 (£1.25) admission includes use of their swimming pool.  Unfortunately today they are having staff training and will close at 1pm instead of 4.30pm.  They have quite a few turtles in pools with information in English, a few crocodiles and iguanas but it is not great, however the swim in the pool is most welcome.  Move off to park behind the beach.  It looks like this area is starting to be developed with lots marked off and many sprouting mansions.  We pick a vacant one between two of them and park up for the afternoon and night.  The beach is completely deserted with blackish sand (probably from the Colima volcano) and a rough ocean but beautiful.  Other than one train going through blowing its horn we have an extremely peaceful night.

CUYUTLAN BEACH – FREE

89 MILES

 

THURSDAY 5 MARCH – At the north end of the village we try to join the road to Manzanillo but the only choice is the toll road.  At the booth we see they want P230 (£11.50) so we double back 8km to pick up the free road.  Eventually we make it down to the waterfront in Manzanillo near the naval base then head towards the hotel zone.  The road is in terrible condition with lots of traffic so not an enjoyable driving experience.  To cap it all we see nothing of great interest.  It is nice to be returning to Melaque, by coincidence we were here exactly a year ago.  The “almost free camping” area have put the price up to P40 (£2) night or P1000 (£50) a month but they have now got a proper dump station and are putting in a toilet block.  Manage to get a great position with a palapa on the bank overlooking the river and the bay.  Take an afternoon walk into town to do the Internet and learn that Keith is ready to put a deposit on Harry.  After cooking us fish & chips for our supper I take Sandra for a walk along the “malecon”.  A fisherman throws his scraps to the pelicans and there is a feeding frenzy.  One gets a huge fish but it sits in his beak pouch with lots of protrusions.  For the next half hour we watch it trying to swallow it.  The bird doesn’t want to spit it back out as the others would take it so periodically it tries to shuffle it around but with limited success.  Eventually it flies off with his huge pouch hanging down.  Not sure whether it will survive as the things sticking into the pouch looked really sharp.

MELAQUE – P40 (£2)

75 MILES

 

FRIDAY 6 MARCH – It is a short drive to take us to Tenacatita Slabs, one of our favourite camping spots.  It is rather like coming home as we end up on exactly the same slab as last year.  Clem & Barb are already here plus Maz and his wife who we met last year.  We are soon set up next to a couple of American families.  The tide is very low and snorkelling difficult.  Stingrays are out in force and a Mexican girl gets a barb in her foot and has to be taken to hospital.  Shortly after an American guy also gets a small sting.  We wear our crocs in the water and swim on the opposite sandy beach.  There are so many people to chat to the day goes really quickly and we also have an hour in the evening at Maz’s.

TENACATITA SLABS – Donation

24 MILES

 

SATURDAY 7 MARCH – For the first day with Sandra we don’t have to move anywhere so lie in until 8.30am.  Lucas & Marcel (the Quebec couple we met in Zipolite) arrive, they have moved from Melaque as loads of Mexicans arrived and played loud music all night.  They opt to park here but further round the bay.  Quite a few Mexicans arrive and set up camp with one car parked right beside us for the shade.  They all like to play loud music but luckily the guy by us has good taste and we like his selection.  Sandra wants to take us out for a meal so we head off for lunch in the village.  At the restaurant with the stone arches we enjoy chilli rellanas (a huge chilli pepper stuffed with cheese and fried) whilst Sandra has a delicious coconut shrimp.  We are pestered with vendors and shoo them all away until we notice one lot coming round with desserts.  The flan (sort of home made crème caramel) is excellent buy it seems strange that they are welcome to wander around the restaurants making sales.  Sandra is almost falling asleep at the end of the meal so we go home for her to have a nap whilst we explore the bay.  It is a really low tide and the coral pools are like aquariums where ankle deep in water you can see colourful fish.  We find a small rock pool with 14 stingray trapped.  Clem hosts happy hour and after a brief gap we re gather for Maz’s evening fire.  This is such a neat spot with friendly people that it is almost tempting to send Sandra on ahead on a bus and stay here for longer!  Although the days are still very hot the nights are getting cooler as we head north and finally we have to put a cover on top of the sheet.

TENACATITA 2

 

SUNDAY 8 MARCH - For our last journey with Sandra we get up early and watch the sunrise during breakfast.  Quite a few people have come out to wave us off whilst Harry & Margot waste no time in relocating to our slot as we back off the slab.  We’ve done this journey coming south before so know it is going to take about 4-hours and it does.  Sandra does not enjoy it at all as she doesn’t like the twisty roads and the bumps give her a lot of pain.  We find it quite scenic especially the last stretch into Puerta Vallarta.  Return to Tachos Trailer Park and get a lovely spot opposite the swimming pool.  Jack & Michelle whom we met in Tangolunda are camped opposite and fill is in on how things work.  After Sandra has had a rest and we’ve eaten we catch a bus to the centre, P5.50 (28p).  The Malecon is much quieter than when we were here last year with Claire & Malcolm and that was also on a Sunday.  Cheeky Monkey still does the $1 margaritas or beers but this year this converts to P13 (65p).  At the bridge over the river it is interesting to see dozens of Mexicans having a great time swimming in the water backed by a fantastic luxury hotel with absolutely no one enjoying their infinity pool.  Sandra wants to treat us to another meal and the place we went to with Claire & Malcolm is closed but further down Basilio Badillo at No 223 is “Asaderos” advertising all you can eat BBQ for P125 (£6.75).  The meal is excellent as it includes cheese and bean tortillas with salsa to start then a huge platter of spicy sausage, chicken, ribs and fajita steak along with peppers, onions, radish, spring onion and tortillas.  We just about make it through the first batch but have to refuse second helpings.  Steve enjoys a game of pool with one of the staff before we leave to catch the sunset at the beach.  Along the Malecon there are lots of food stalls and the ones selling homemade gateau are just too tempting for me.  Walking back Sandra picks up a few souvenirs and we visit Senor Frog shop.  Of course we just have to go back to Cheeky Monkey for a last drink before catching the bus home.

PUERTO VALLARTA TACHOS TRAILER PARK – P290 (£14.50)

124 MILES

 

MONDAY 9 MARCH – Whilst Sandra sunbathes away the day I set about giving Harry a much needed clean up and bringing the washing up to date.  It is a tough call as the swimming pool is really nice here.  Late afternoon Sandra & Robert arrive and stay for a couple of hours.  After supper Sandra & I take a stroll around the campground to look at all the decorative lights outside the motorhomes.

PUERTO VALLARTA 2, TACHOS TRAILER PARK

 

TUESDAY 10 MARCH – Sandra picks up hot dogs for breakfast from Wal Mart whilst I shop.  The airport is a short drive north of the city and we have to stay on the laterals in a large vehicle so miss the turning.  This works out really well as we can pull up by a pedestrian overpass that leads you straight into the terminal building.  I walk Sandra over then leave her to make her way for her flight to Acapulco via Mexico City.  We continue north in the state of NAYARIT             where we should put our clocks back 1-hour but don’t because the tourist sections still work on PV time.  In Bucerias we go onto Tres Banderas campground.  It’s normally $25 (£18) but we negotiate P200 (£10) just for parking.  Robert arrives shortly after and brings Sandra’s brother Phillip to meet us.  In the afternoon Steve goes off with Robert in hunt of a pub showing the Liverpool match.  Sandra takes me on a tour beginning at her sisters home then on to the house that she is now building and there I meet Karen & Claude.  Next we go for a drive around the coast to Punta Mita.  There’s a lovely long flat beach there but it is almost too windy for us to lie down sunbathing for long without being sand blasted.  When we get back I have time to make use of the campsite laundry P20 (£1).  Steve & Robert arrive back after being on a real wild goose chase and ending up in a pub just a couple of blocks from here.  At least Liverpool had a great game and won!  In the evening we join Robert & Sandra in their motorhome parked next to Karen’s where we have a lovely meal of seafood pasta. 

BUCERIAS, LAS TRES BANDERAS – P200 (£10)

13 MILES

 

WEDNESDAY 11 MARCH – We’ve had a bad night disturbed by numerous dogs, roosters and traffic.  However we want to spend more time with Sandra & Robert so will tolerate it a bit longer.  Sandra picks me up for a shopping trip to Mega.  Using the ATM I find out the deposit on the sale of Harry has gone through.  Funnily enough we have had a lot of interest in him recently, someone even came up to us on the campground yesterday to ask if it was for sale, we’ve had an E-mail from an Aussie wanting to do an exchange and even Sandra & Robert were considering selling their motorhome as they much prefer ours.  Having picked up the lads we head off north up the coast.  First we stop at Roga’s Restaurant to see about returning for sunset as it has fine views.  However to get to it you go up in this flimsy outside lift that Steve hates.  There are obviously no regulations here as the door to the outside and the internal lift door can both be left open at any stage and the floor feels like it is liable to collapse.  The views from the terrace are excellent but unfortunately the swimming pool has just been given a shot of chemicals and out of use.  Steve really hates the ride down and this leaves him feeling quite queasy in the car.  First stop is Lo De Marcos where the Tlaquepaque campground is behind a wonderfully artistic hotel.  Although it is on the beach it is so huge that few sites have a view of the ocean and most are just parking spaces close to other RV’s.  There are many other campgrounds in the town but none as nice as the beach free camping we have been finding.  Further along we visit a house they had considered buying last year and then take a very rough road out to Playa de Naranco.  There was a good road out a few years ago and Sandra’s sister Karen camped with her motorhome on the beach.  Today the road is totally neglected and Sandra does well to get us through in her low slung convertible as a 4wd would be much more suitable.  You can no longer drive to the beach as a “security” booth (Mexican palapa with a camp bed) prevents you driving down but you can walk.  The area has been cordoned off with fencing ready for hotel development and we can see why as it is a stunning beach.   It’s late when we get back so by the time we have had curry at our place we opt out of the sunset drinks and just play games

BUCERIAS 2, TRES BANDERAS

 

THURSDAY 12 MARCH – Another noisy night so we are hoping Robert has found us another spot to stay tonight otherwise we will leave.  We relocate to Jose’s garden; he lives between Karen’s and the Ranch.  In the afternoon we all meet at El Ficas (the ranch) to use the free wi-fi whilst enjoying their swimming pool and bar.  Early evening we go to “Mauricio’s” restaurant between Puerto and Nuevo Vallarta to be joined by Karen & Claude.  The meals are all P169 (£8.50) but the price includes seafood soup to start, tostadas with marlin, your choice of main course (many are combo’s) unlimited tequila, fried banana for dessert followed by Kailua and milk.  Steve gets the lobster, prawn, fish and mussel combo and when he orders a beer it arrives with a back up supply in an ice bucket.  It’s not a touristy place at all but has obviously been discovered by the ex pats living here but retains it’s Mexican character.  As we are leaving we spot piles of the “jicama” vegetable and learn that they are there for you to help yourself. 

BUCERIAS 3, JOSE’S GARDEN

 

FRIDAY 13 MARCH - Back on the road again alone and with no particular place to go – what a great feeling.  We check out the resort area of Rincon de Guyabitos but soon realise it is not for us.  Previously we free camped at Chacala Beach but when we drive out there we see the beach road is fenced off.  In the town we learn that Americans have bought it for development and there is absolutely nowhere to now stay in an RV.  Following the coast road we veer inland then drop back to the ocean at Platanitos.  A steep cobbled street takes us down to the beach with a huge, level paved car park behind it.  We are told it is safe to stay there overnight so spend the afternoon on the beach.  It’s a small one but bigger at low tide and backed by loads of restaurants.  Just before nightfall and small VW camper arrives with Claude & Marie from Quebec so we have a bit of company. 

PLATANITOS – FREE

72 MILES

 

SATURDAY 14 MARCH – We’ve had one of the quietest nights for ages with just a few roosters waking us in the morning.  Had it now been the weekend we would probably stay longer but know it is going to be packed with locals.  Unusually for us we check out the next RV Park, Paraiso Miramar, and when we are quoted P75 (£3.75) pp with electric, wi-fi and use of the swimming pools we are in.  Walking round we see Bill & Bonnie whom we first met on the east coast and who also travelled with Kevin & Ruth for a time.  It’s a very nice RV park attached to the hotel with lush green lawns, 3 plunge pools then a swimming pool in another area so we are well catered for and enjoy making full use of them.

MIRAMAR, PARAISO MIRAMAR RV PARK – P150 (£7.50)

12 MILES

 

SUNDAY 15 MARCH – We’ve had a peaceful night and with the Internet we can use a bit more time here to research onward plans.  Tomorrow is a holiday in Mexico so many families are staying here over the weekend.  Throughout the day the pools are constantly in use with kids having a great time.  Late afternoon we play Euchre with Bill & Bonnie then catch up on watch “Long Way Down”.

MIRAMAR 2, PARAISO MIRAMAR RV PARK

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MONDAY 16 FEBRUARY – Kevin & Ruth cycled round the bays the other day to check out the camping by the lighthouse.  It’s an interesting drive out around the bays with lots of fine views.  When we arrive they are parked out on the street waiting for another rig to leave.  It is a stunning spot for the views but otherwise just a gravel parking lot a long way above the beach charging P100 (£5) for dry camping and P200 (£10) with services.  We drive right down to Playa La Entrega where there are numerous parking lots.  They say we can stay for free overnight and this suits us really well as we are a short level walk to the beach.  This is a wonderfully calm bay with really clear water and great snorkelling just off the shore.  Steve says it is the most colourful coral he has seen in Mexico and the best mix of fish.  I try to snorkel but my sinuses make it too painful.  Kevin & Ruth hike down to join us for an hour in the afternoon whilst we are happy to spend pretty much all day on the beach.  We learn that it is a Mexican holiday and this explains the beach being so busy and all the revelry in the restaurants.  Returning to the motorhome Steve negotiates to trade a beer for a fresh coconut.  After drinking the juice they slice out the inside then smear it with chilli and salt for us to eat and it is surprisingly tasty.  The holidaymakers stagger back the bus in fine fettle but once they have left it is a very peaceful spot.

HUATULCO, PLAYA LA ENTREGA

 

TUESDAY 17 FEBRUARY – We head along the coast to the southern most point of our journey at Puerto Angel.  The main Mex 200 is a good road but still winding and up and down hill so slow going.  Turn off and drop down to the traditional fishing port of Puerto Angel (doesn’t sound so nice in Spanish as it is pronounced Ann Hell).  We are pleased we know that motorhomes comes this way as we negotiate narrow streets and twisty lanes along the coast.  About 3km further on we reach the famous Zipolite Beach, the only nude beach in Mexico.  The “main” road runs along the back but between it and the beach is a sand road with palapas, restaurants and other buildings on either side.  There are 3 trailer parks, Fernando’s is landside and we have had reports of people getting mice in their motorhomes.  Mango’s is expensive at P350 (£17.50) and Palms is OK but down in a dip and very hot.  Having parked in the village we explore and find ourselves in a nice back packer type haven with lots of hippy people.  Learn that we can drive along the beach sand road behind Palms to a small camping area known as La Habana Trailer Park and somehow we manage to squeeze Harry onto it.  Negotiate with Mickey to pay P70 (£3.50) dry camping.  Two Quebec couples are just leaving from the top of the beach but we are too heavy to take their spots so settle below but without the view we would like.  It’s not long before we are stripped off enjoying a stroll around the bay.  The beach no longer seems to have naturists at the west end and the whole length is a mixture of nudes (including Mexicans), topless, people in swimwear and others fully dressed.  Lots of alternative lifestyle people can be seen with dreadlocks, doing yoga or practising juggling.  I wonder if a nude person doing yoga would be a “Yogi Bear”!  At the west end of the beach we see really nice attractive accommodation in classy bungalows built up the rock.  There is also a huge hole in a rock where you can watch the waves coming through.  Nearby is a nude restaurant with four-poster beds on the beach advertising nude breakfast for P30 (£1.50) – this seems like just our kind of place.  Other accommodation along the beach ranges from nice motel style rooms down through beach huts to tent camping catering for all but the most discerning visitor.  A Canadian van pulls up opposite us with a nice young family, Jeff, his girlfriend Nat, children Sarah and Isilie and a puppy they have just bought.  We make many walks along the beach (well over 1km each way) and take dips in the ocean, as it is really hot.  Late afternoon we walk the back streets and are amazed to see a wheelchair basketball match in progress.  The youths all have wheelchairs with three small central wheels along with the two inward sloping outside ones.  Nearby at the derelict community centre we find the two Quebec vans that left Habana.  They have a superb spot directly above the beach and moved due to noise from the reggae bar at the other place – think we may be joining them soon.  A local came and asked for P200 (£10) for the week but they told him it was too much and that they didn’t think he had any right to be asking money for them parking on public land.  We would be perfectly happy paying that to be there.  After the beautiful sunset we sit out sipping our drinks by candlelight.

ZIPOLITE, LA HABANA TRAILER PARK – P70 (£3.50)

39 MILES

 

WEDNESDAY 18 FEBRUARY – We were lucky there was no music last night and slept well.  Exercises and jogging along the beach makes a good start to the day and we very happy to watch whilst having breakfast outside.  Walking along the beach we learn the Quebec vans with naturists Gilbert & Lynn and another guy and Marcel had a good night.  Jeff has a friend arriving soon with 3 children and a big rig and it is going to be crowded at La Habana so we pack up and move to the “Casa Communal”.  Parked sideways to the beach we have a near perfect spot for us and set up camp properly.  We can be discretely nude by the van and are right behind the beach with an unobstructed view.  It’s really tough deciding whether to people watch, read, dip in the ocean or stroll along the shore so we mix it around.  The waves are very strong and there’s a bit of an undercurrent so swimming is not good but playing in the waves until you get fed up being knocked over is fun and the water is really warm.  During our second beach walk we meet fellow naturists Paul & Heather from Montreal.  They are also in a motorhome but with a 38’ rig are staying at “Mangoes” but seem a little envious of our spot.  Mid afternoon Kevin & Ruth arrive but opt not to stay by us partly because there are lots of burrs that get in Whiskey’s paws and also they are not so comfortable with nudity.  They move into the central parking area of the adjoining hotel at P100 (£5) so we can still socialise by visiting them – when we are dressed!  After sunset 3 Mexicans arrive asking for camping money.  They approach the Quebec vans and a heated argument begins.  In the end we see them packing up to leave.  When the men come to us they are very friendly, ask for P100 (£5) but we say that is expensive just for parking compared to other places offering more for the same price.  They say then ask for P50 (£2.50) and we get an official receipt.  Gilbert & Lynn think they are “Tres Bandidos” sent by Mickey from La Habana as his brother has the hotel next door where K&R are staying.  He is probably not happy to have lost 3 customers to this spot and sent them over to demand P200 (£10) night.  They really don’t want to pay anything and this is why they leave to park up the back street.  We want to be here for a good few days and don’t mind paying the small price they ask for the comfort of knowing we won’t be asked to move on.  K&R join us for a card evening.  Typing up my diary on the computer I chuckle to find the spell check wants me to change Zipolite to impolite – is that what the computer thinks of naturists!

ZIPOLITE 2, COMMUNITY CENTRE LAND, P50 (£2.50)

1 MILE

 

THURSDAY 19 FEBRUARY – There was a lot of noise with waves crashing during the night.  A strange thing happens here with waves rolling onto the shore, where there is a steep bank, then turning round and heading back out to sea to crash into the incoming ones.  Take our morning walk around the bay before settling into our routine.  The Canadians move back and park in the narrow sand street between the “casa communal” and the hotel.  Although they are speaking in French there is obviously quite a heated discussion going on culminating in the one couple leaving and Gilbert & Lynn moving in properly and setting up their camp. No one has called to collect any money before we set off with Kevin & Ruth for a sunset walk along the beach.  Sunsets here are pretty good with the huge pink ball descending behind the rocks.   Many of the restaurants and bars have glass jars filled with fuel and lit up like candles and we find one offering 2 cocktails for the price of 1, P40 (£2) during happy hour.  Service is really slow but the waitress does bring taco chips and salsa to nibble whilst we are waiting.  We have all ordered a different drink and when she arrives we get two of each.  There’s quite a lot of alcohol in them so I have a hard time continuing our walk to the far end, where the rock hotel is really attractively lit, and back again.  Round off with euchre in K&R’s.

ZIPOLITE 3, CASA COMMUNAL

 

FRIDAY 20 FEBRUARY – We must be getting used to the waves as we sleep in late.  Steve does what should be our last service on Harry.  In the evening we are joined by a French group in a California motorhome and they are kite surfers.  Take an evening stroll around the back streets of the village before an evening of Canasta with K&R.

ZIPOLITE 4, CASA COMMUNAL

 

SATURDY 21 FEBRUARY – Mid afternoon we walk round the block to do Internet, P15 (75p) hour, to finalise arrangements for picking up Sandra on Thursday.  It seems an even hotter day and stays hot well into the evening so we sit out late with our candles.

ZIPOLITE 5, CASA COMMUNAL

 

SUNDAY 22 FEBRUARY – Ending our late afternoon walk we see a sea rescue.  A couple have been out swimming but the guy has ended up quite a long way out and can’t seem to get back in.  The lifeguard swims out to him, fits a lifesaving belt around him then tows him along parallel with the shore before heading inwards.  He’s OK but must have got stuck in a rip.  Apparently many people drown here and one year 26 people died.  Watch a movie at K&R’s in the evening.  We are very reluctant to leave but want to break up the journey to the airport.  Without a deadline we would probably have stayed here for a few weeks as it is probably the best spot we have had in Mexico.  Cheap too as the rent man has only been to see us twice so our 5 days here have only cost P150 (£7.50), bargain.

ZIPOLITE 6, CASA COMMUNAL

 

MONDAY 23 FEBRUARY – Kevin & Ruth are also moving on today but we like to set off as soon as we are ready and this is often before them so we go alone.  The coastal road is slow going but we do pass a couple of nice beaches including one that is famous for the turtle sanctuary, a far cry from it’s fame of years gone by when they used to slaughter turtles here.  Back on the main Mex 200 it is a fast and easy road and a couple of hours after setting off we are at Puerto Escondido.  This area is world famous to surfers who enjoy riding the Mexican Pipeline.  Just before the river we turn down to Zicatela Beach then left along the sandy beach road.  At the far side of the "Hostal" we find a big parking area directly behind the beach and although there is no one else there a local tells us motorhomes often use it.  Just after 10am we are set up with our beach chairs enjoying the view.  Again this is the kind of spot that we could stay for quite some time.  Late afternoon I take a walk to the village and notice lots of nice hotels with interesting architecture.  At the western end of the beach there are lots of bars and restaurants and tourist orientated shops.  An attractive lookout gives you a view along the beach and also into the next bay.  On the beach they are renting out horses and I also see 4 parachutists drop in.  The surf is not that good so although lots of people are out there they are just paddling around.  When I tell Steve how nice it is he goes off to look as well and chats to Clermont and Barb in “Freedom 2”, we keep bumping into them en route.  We enjoy sitting out for sunset and chat to Don & his wife who bought a house here 20-years ago as a winter holiday home to get away from the cold in the Yucatan.  It seems a nice peaceful spot until 11.30pm when a car on the nearby dirt road decides to put a full wheel lock on and drive around in circles until he stalls it.  The noise is incredible but worse still is the amount of dust that he disturbs as we are down wind.  Luckily he only does it once before heading off.

PUERTO ESCONDIDO, PLAYA ZICATELA, NEXT TO THE HOSTAL

45 MILES

 

TUESDAY 24 FEBRUARY – Away by 8am we suddenly realise just how big Puerto Escondido is.  The old town is above the main highway with the tourist part below and both sections stretch a long way.  The road is pleasant enough at the start with enough points of interest to keep us happy.  We have been warned that there are over 200 topes (sleeping policemen) between here and Acapulco and they are a bit of a pain.  There are also lots of checkpoints, the first by Police who wave us through when we pretend not to speak any Spanish.  In Rio Grande there seem to be more Moto Taxi’s than cars.  We are waved through a military checkpoint then have to show our passports at an immigration check.   Passing through Huaxpaltepec we hear lots of music and see a gathering in the square.  We park up to investigate, hear a sort of country style music and see lots of men doing a strange dance.  They are wearing scarves over their faces covered with miniature masks.  It seems there is a story being told as one man pretends to shoot another and we see a whip come into play.  It’s a really hot day and we’ve a long way to go so press on.  At the next military checkpoint they indicate we must pull over.  There’s another motorhome already being searched.  It is the friends of Clermont & Barb and they have been there for ages as the soldiers are going through absolutely everything.  The lady speaks good Spanish and asked the guy what they were checking for and was told drugs and weapons.  He told her that tourists now often carry them through. We are parked in a narrow spot and other vehicles are having trouble getting past us.   There are only 2 soldiers, one to stop you or say you can go ahead and one doing the search.  They don’t stop a single Mexican vehicle whilst we are waiting so Steve speaks to the soldier in English, babbles on about targeting tourists and it is not fair and is a little surprised when they tell us to be on our way!  At the 6^th checkpoint of the day, crossing into GUERRERO state, we are waved through after pretending not to be able to understand their request for permission to search our vehicle.  At about 1.30pm we reach km124 and turn off to drive 7km to Playa Ventura.  This area has a beautiful long beach but little development, a handful of shops, bars, restaurants and rooms to let.  A boy leaps out and tries to guide us to his camping spot but he wants P100 (£5) for a poor spot with difficult access.  There are so many places here with parking options that we check out a few more.  At the eastern end we secure nice parking by a restaurant for P20 (£1) pp including use of showers and toilets.  Set out to explore more on foot and find the road extends further to the west.  Many areas seem to have been fenced off as plots of land for sale in between others that have already been developed.  Almost everyone has a sign up offering “camping” and one has a lovely swimming pool.  There are no campers there but the lady next door tells us we could stay so we negotiate a price of P30 (£1.50) pp and will move tomorrow.  Walking home we spot “Freedom 2” parked at the restaurant next to us.  They are just having a drink and thinking about dinner and parking there but decide to move to the site with the pool once we tell them about it.  If we hadn’t already paid we would have joined them.

PLAYA VENTURA – PALAPA PANCHO VILLA, P40 (£2)

171 MILES 

 

WEDNESDAY 25 FEBRUARY – We relocate to the place where the sign says “Lugar para acampar con alberca” about 1 mile northwest along the beach.  We are the only visitors so park by the toilet/shower block to make use of the water for a clean up.  Since our initial clean up in readiness for our visitor we have camped at the beach and had one side of the van covered in sea spray then had the other side sand blasted by the car doing doughnuts.  Between jobs we enjoy lots of cooling dips in the swimming pool. 

PLAYA VENTURA 2, LUGAR PARA ACAMPER, P60 (£3)

1 MILE

 

THURSDAY 26 FEBRUARY – Off at 7.45am.  Although we still only make 50 km an hour it is an easy drive to Acapulco and we turn off to Barra Viejo to follow the coast road in to the airport.  This looks to be the next area for development as it is only 30km for the city and has a nice beach.  Arriving at the airport we are amazed at how small it is, more like a little regional one rather than an International.  We are too big for the car park so Steve parks in the street no parking zone and OK’s it with security.  Sandra’s flight from Houston arrives on time and I am there to meet her and in minutes she is settled in Harry and we are on our way.  We’ve been advised to take a wide by pass around Acapulco and the first part is a toll road, P73 (£3.65).  We actually think we have gone wrong as we head off towards Mexico City but eventually find the turn off and finally make it down to the coast north of the city at Pie De La Cuesta.  It has taken ages so we think we would have been better going straight through the city.  Heading for the campground we see a great parking place directly behind the beach (warning see Saturdays entry).  Johnny Walker lives there and says he is the security and we negotiate to camp in amongst the palms for P100 (£5) night.  After a snack lunch Steve & Sandra brave the ocean but it is too challenging and Steve ends up giving Sandra a depiction of how easily you get sucked under and lose your footing.  A French motorhome arrives with Dutch couple Peter and Miriam who live in France.  They shipped their vehicle over to Nova Scotia and are on their way to Panama.  The rest of the afternoon is catching up on news from Sandra.  Take a late stroll up the road.  We see an open-air church on the beach with nice views of the ocean through the picture windows behind the altar.  There is an attractive lagoon opposite where you can do boat trips but we now have a time deadline to get Sandra to Puerto Vallarta for her return flight on 10^th March. The boatman does warn us not to go onto the beach at night here, as it is dangerous.   Acapulco Trailer Park is not bad, secure behind a low wall and fencing it is directly behind the beach, has a small swimming pool and free wi-fi.  Negotiate P150 (£7.50) for tomorrow, as we will be out all day.  Return for our evening Chinese meal sitting out looking at the ocean.  Sandra is whacked so we all retire to bed around 8.30pm.

ACAPULCO, PIE DE LA CUESTA BEACH PARKING, P100 (£5)

121 MILES

 

FRIDAY 27 FEBRUARY – After breakfast we move onto the trailer park, which is only about a quarter full.  The local buses run directly past the entrance and P4.50 (23p) gets us a ride for the 15km back to the city.  It takes about 1-hour due to road works and lots of traffic so maybe we did do the right thing going wide yesterday.  The roads are full of VW Beetle taxis painted white with blue hub areas.  It feels like we have walked onto the set of “Herbie”.  Begin exploring at the Zocolo with an unusual cathedral.  Walking down to the waterfront we have to head a long way round before we get a view of the enormous Acapulco Bay with the main beach backed by high-rise hotels.  We take a slow walk up the hill to La Quebrada and stop in a local restaurant for a snack lunch.  Whilst there the beer is being delivered and we are amazed to see Herculean men carrying 4 cases each (96 bottles) on their backs.  If you pay P35 (£1.75) you can get closer to the cliff divers and the price includes a soft drink.  There are no tour buses and few people around so we have a great view.  In total there are 8 divers who begin with fancy dives from a low level building up to the main event.  4 divers climb up the seemingly sheer cliff face, pray at a couple of shrines before checking the incoming water level then diving into the narrow channel.  There’s little else to interest us so we walk down to the bay and catch the bus back.  There are hundreds of buses around so we are amazed to get the same one going back.  It’s easy to tell this as they are all personalised and we are on “Figaro”.  Many of them have themes and fantastic adornment and paint jobs.  Back at camp we all head for a dip in the pool where Steve & Sandra eventually fall asleep. 

ACAPULCO TRAILER PARK, P150 (£7.50)

1 MILE

 

SATURDAY 28 FEBRUARY – We are surprised to see Peter & Miriam on the campground early morning.  Apparently they had a terrible night camped at “Johnny Walkers”.  After we left they pulled their motorhome forward almost onto the beach and stayed there.  In the night they had someone banging on the motorhome, seemingly spaced out on drugs or something.  Then he began throwing rocks at them.  Johnny Walker came out of his house and saw the man had a gun, shouted to Peter not to open their door.  All Johnny could do was open the gate to let Peter back up then drive out (one of the reasons we try to park faced ready to leave).  By that time a rock had hit them between the side windows, but the metal strip in the middle rather than breaking the window and another had smashed through the window in the door and ripped through the blind.  They were terrified so abandoned the stuff outside (we pack everything away each night), drove off and went to the Police.  Apparently the regular Police have no authority on the beach, as this is the domain of the “Federales”.  However they took a report and suggested they parked by the fire station for safety for the rest of the night.  Not sure whether the problem was that they were alone, it was a weekend, they had moved forward onto the beach or they were just plain unlucky but so glad that we had opted to move.  We are pretty late getting away and this gets worse as the road north along the coast turns into a dead end and we have to backtrack all the way past the Trailer Park wasting over 1/1 hour.  The village Saturday markets are in full flow so I hop out to pick up some fruit.  Following the free road sign to go around Tecpan De Galeana we suddenly notice the last sign has “cuota” (toll) added at the bottom.  With little time to make a decision we take it but the lack of traffic soon makes us realise the P43 (£2.20) toll for about 3km is the wrong call.  At Km150 we turn off to Piedra de Tlacoyunque and just over a mile down the rough paved road we reach a parking area directly behind a beautiful beach.  It’s lunchtime and by the time we have eaten and checked around we decide to stay for the night.  One of the men working on fixing up the restaurant says it is very safe and quiet.  To the north there are some unusual rocks like volcanic stuff bubbling up from the ocean and a huge one with two arches.  A man is busy fishing with a net but only catches small sardines.  To the south there is a fenced off area with shade cloth.  Within it are lots of pieces of wooden orange boxes pushed into the ground with dates and numbers.  This is a turtle sanctuary beach and we gather the eggs are moved here, re buried, labelled then near to hatching time a net cage is put over the area to catch the hatchlings.  Presumably then someone takes them down to release them into the ocean.  Again the sea is too rough to swim and Sandra is tired from our early stroll so Steve and I venture south but it is hard going.  In the evening around 9pm a car pulls up nearby with 2 girls and 2 lads.  They are playing loud music but more annoyingly smash their beer bottles as they empty them.  After last night we feel a little intimidated so stay up until they leave at 11pm but they actually caused us no trouble.  Throughout the night we hear the quad bike going up and down the beach, presumably moving turtle eggs into the hatchery.    

KM 150 PIEDRA DE TLACOYUNQUE - FREE

103 MILES

 

 

FRIDAY 16 JANUARY – Well the gods must be looking after us as the rain has finally stopped.  Kathe give us a lift to Immigration offices where we manage to jump the queue by asking a question.  They give us some forms that we must take to the bank to pay for the tourist visa.  Catch a bus to town centre, P5 (25p) then queue for ½ hour to make the P282 (14.50) payment per person.  Next we have to get 3 copies of each of the receipts and the bank obliges us. Taxi back to immigration, P20 (1.00) and again the girl sees us ahead of the huge seated crowd.  She stamps the copies, gives us one back and says we are good to go.  Take a taxi to bus station, P14 (70p) and then on to the 11am chicken bus to Corozal P15 (75p).  It is one of the old American school buses and looks well past its best before date but at least the driver tops up the engine oil before we set off.  We could have caught a luxury Ado bus but for a short journey this is more fun.  At the Mexican border we all get off the bus and proceed to customs to show passports or ID.  The guy asks for our tourist visa, stamps it double entry before asking of our plan.  We explain we are returning and he asks for P100 (5.00) each.  We tell him we have already paid and asked for a double entry visa at the original border and should not have to pay more.  He says no he wants P100 so we call his bluff and say we will not bother going to Belize and stay in Mexico.  He then says OK we can go in for free, just this once.  Over the bridge the next stop is entry into BELIZE.  All very simple and strange to hear perfect English being spoken – due to Belize being British Honduras in the past.  It’s a short ride to Corozal but quite a transition from Mexico.  Signs are all in English and it looks like a Caribbean town with all the coloured people.  Everyone seems very friendly and many say Hello as we pass.  There’s an ATM in square, approx B2.80 = GBP1 so we are soon fixed up.  Bank notes have a picture of very young version of The Queen on them.  The island ferry doesn’t leave until 3pm and it’s only just after 12 so we have time to explore.   Chinese runs most of the shops but all the food seems to be tinned and very expensive, accommodation is not great so we will press on.   Thunderbolt ferry costs B$45 (GBP16) pp and takes 2-hours of very bumpy noisy riding to get us to Ambergris Caye, the island also known as “La Isla Bonita” in the Madonna song.  It’s starting to rain when we arrive and we are disheartened to find our first few choices of accommodation are full.  There seems to be no middle ground just budget rooms and posh rooms at $200 and up.  We drop “lucky’ at Thomas Hotel where he has a grotty cubicle room for B$50 (GBP17).  Well its one of those “no room at the inn” situations and better than nothing.  Dump the bags and set out to explore the small town where golf carts are the main mode of transport.  It’s happy hour in many bars so 2 x rum and cokes for B$5 (GBP 1.80) makes us feel much better.  We’re obviously in for a noisy night as drumming begins at 8pm in a bar nearby.

AMBERGRIS CAY, SAN PEDRO, THOMAS HOTEL - B$50 (GBP 17)

 

SATURDAY 17 JANUARY – We have no problem getting up early to leave and are pleased that it is a dry day.  Sit eating our grapefruit on the beachfront then enjoy a coffee at Estell’s whilst waiting for the ferry.  B$25 (GBP9) buys us a ticket to Caye Caulker with an onward one to Belize City for later.  This is another white-knuckle ride but only takes ½ hour.  Caye Caulker is a more laid-back backpackers type island with sandy streets and again golf cart transportation.  Amble along the shore checking out rooms but once again there are either cheapish grotty rooms or very expensive ones with nothing in between.  By comparison to Asia the cheap rooms are not great value but Ignacio Beach Bungalows seem the best of the batch with en suite cabins on stilts at B$30 (GBP12) if you stay for 2 nights.  Sounds cheap but you have to see them to realise they are little more than garden huts with damp sagging roofs, holes in the walls and smelly bathrooms but we do have a nice view and it’s well away from the noisy part of town.  Set out to explore the island, which can easily be done, on foot, in fact many people wander around permanently barefoot.  In the evening we return to Jolly Roger shack as his evening meal package of meal, dessert and 3 drinks at B$25 (GBP8) seems good value.  The mash and rice are sent from home in a polystyrene tray but the fish or lobster he cooks to go with it is really tasty.  Dessert is a small slice of chocolate cake and the drinks are weak rum and oranges however we do have good company.

CAYE CAULKER, IGNACIO BEACH BUNGALOWS - B$30 (GBP12)

 

SUNDAY 18 JANUARY – Begin our walk heading to the south of the island with an intriguing cemetery, signs give birth and death dates as sunrise and sunset.  The airport is just behind it and a plane is due to land so we step to one side whilst it drops in over our heads.  From there we walk to the north end of the island where the old bridge that connected it to another part was washed out in a storm many years ago.  There’s a nice bar where we buy drinks in order to sit on their loungers.  The channel between the islands is deep and full of tropical fish that we can easily see.  Most of the beaches around the island are marred by sea grass and people really come here to take a boat trip to the offshore reef for snorkelling.  The snorkelling here is not as good as it used to be and it is blamed on the tourists stepping on the reef however having seen that there is no drainage as such on the island we suspect other factors are at play.  Locals here think nothing of swearing even with young children around and often the F word mixed in with a bit of  “Creole”.  In the evening we go to Lloyds Canadian sports bar for the trivia quiz.  We arrive early and treat ourselves to a nice meal only to find that the quiz is off as there is a big American football game on TV. 

CAYE CAULKER 2

 

MONDAY 19 JANUARY – Catch the 7.30am express ferry to Belize arriving in the city 30 minutes later.  We have used to boats to create a circular tour for ourselves but we certainly would not call them pleasure boat trips.  Belize City looks pretty grim if our walk up Orange Street to the bus station is anything to go by.  The 9.15am bus will take us further south but not to Placencia as the road there is too bad for the bus.  We can get off at Independence and get a boat across but opt to make an earlier stop and re plan.  The old American school bus soon fills up and people are left standing.  B$10 (GBP4) will get us to Dangrina in just under 3 hours via the capital city of Belmopan.  This is another white-knuckle bumpy ride with lots of sliding on the seats as we swerve around the bends.  The scenery changes from low lying flooded areas to lots of big hills in the jungle.  In Dangrina we have a problem getting a room, as there is a medical conference in town.  Just about to give up and take a bus further when we find Riverside Hotel has basic rooms at B$25 pp but with no guests she will take B$40 (GBP14) for the two of us.  It’s less grim than the other places we have stayed but we have to share bathrooms.  We are now in a “garifuna” town with lots of Rasta’s who we think originated in Nigeria.  They have a different language but seem friendly people and call out to us as we stroll around.  Many fall in to one of 2 categories, piss heads that have just rolled out of the bar or piss pants that have just crawled out of the gutter.  The beach area is poor but we enjoy just wandering around a getting a feel for the place and have time to check out buses for tomorrow.

DANGRIGA, RIVERSIDE HOTEL - B$40 (GBP14)

 

TUESDAY 20 JANUARY – We catch the 7.45am James Bus to Punta Gorda, B$13 (£4.30).  Although we are on the “express” bus it still takes 3 hours and we drop of and pick up many people on route.  The express bus does have the advantage of having more comfortable seats but by this I mean an inch of foam on each seat and back rest!  Punta Gorda is pretty much the most southern coastal town in Belize and so laid back the locals can’t even be bothered to give it the full name and just say PG.  The driver asks where we want to be dropped of and we ask for the St Charles Inn as recommended in the Rough Guide.  This turns out to be the best accommodation we have seen so far in Belize with small but modern rooms and tiled bathrooms with hot water in the showers.  For B$40 (£14) we take a single room having finally realised that many single rooms mean just one bed but this is often a double bed.  He relays all the satellite TV to the town so his garden is full of huge dishes and he has TV in all the rooms.  We wander around town and everyone shouts a greeting to us.  The main ferry only goes further south twice a week but a local boatman says he has many people wanting to go tomorrow so we will go with him.  Obama is being inaugurated today and the locals are all glued to the TV watching the ceremony.  Most of the people here are the Garifuna, many of whom originated as slaves from Africa so they are very happy to see him as president.  We are happy to have an evening at home channel hopping with the TV.

PUNTA GORDA - CHARLES INN B$40 (£14)

 

WEDNESDAY 21 JANUARY – We both have an excellent nights sleep but linger in bed enjoying our surroundings.  Call in to the snack shack for breakfast and as usual everyone wants to chat.  One of the locals tells us we should visit “Johnny English” a Brit who bought a motorhome in Florida, drove it here and is now building on a plot of land.  We hunt him down along with his Canadian friend Pete just as their wives are going out shopping.  There’s so much to talk about in such a short time as we have a boat to catch.  He shows us his new home and tells us wages are incredibly low here and his workers get $2 (£1.35) a day.  Needless to say he has had lots of snags and work is behind schedule but once finished his 3-storey home with be fantastic.  Meet for El Chato’s boat trip at 2pm.  He charges B$30 (£10) versus the big ferry fee of B$50.  We have to pay B$7.50 (£2.50) environmental departure tax and do brief immigration facilities before boarding the 30-seater boat.  1-hour later we dock in Livingston GUATEMALA and amble up the main street to report to the customs house.  The currency is Quetzal with approx Q10 = £1.  This small town has no land access so has an island feel with very friendly locals.  Tourists come down from Rio Dulce on the river but few stay overnight.  The cliff top hostel has a simple double room with en suite for Q80 (£8) and we are ready to drop our bags off so take it.  Walking around town we end up along the waterfront where we find Marina Hotel with really nice rooms and a swimming pool so decide to upgrade tomorrow for Q200 (£20).  A little further along is the backpackers Casa Del Iguana run by a Cockney lad called Rusty.  He welcomes us and say he is just about to watch “Fools and horses” on TV and why don’t we stay.  He has a dorm and some pleasant cabins with en-suite and although I am fed up of cabins we love the atmosphere and book in for tomorrow night.

LIVINGSTON HOSTEL - Q80 double en-suite room

 

THURSDAY 22 JANUARY – Check out early then walk to Iguana to drop our bags off.  We want to do the beach walk to “Los Siete Altares”.  It is 5km along the back of the beach and takes us 1-½ hours, as there is so much to see.  You are walking along by all the village homes and we also see lots of fishermen.  There are many creek crossings with different sorts of bridges ranging from solid concrete ones down to a single pole.  We are the first visitors at the falls, Q15 (£1.50) and initially disappointed to reach what looks like a concrete barrier across the river with a trickle of water in the middle.  As the trail takes us across it we realise it is a natural rock formation and then upstream we find seven more pools going back into the jungle.  It is really attractive and nice for bathing in but we realise we are not seeing it at its best as there is so little water compared to the photos we have seen where you cannot see the walls between the falls.  Hiking back we hear drumming and chanting and pause to listen.  A fisherman sees us and tells us to follow the path into the village.  Reach a small wooden church and a man comes out to greet us.  He shakes our hands and says he is the man from the tourist office where we went yesterday to ask about the walk.  He is also the village “priest” or equivalent as he invites us into the building then proceeds to waft us with pungent smoke and sprinkle water over us.  Many of the people are white and hippy looking and joining in dancing with the locals.  The drumming gets more intense and barefoot people stamp around on the floor in a kind of trance, we wonder whether he has wacky backy in the incense burner! There seems to be no end to the ceremony so we discreetly take our leave.  Spend the afternoon watching more “Fools and Horses” and chatting to Rusty’s Mum and Dad who are over visiting but have a Post Office in England.  Many people have signed up for Rusty’s family evening meal, Q30 (£3) and it is a local dish of “tapado” a kind of stew with coconut milk.  During the meal we chat to other travellers and end up joining some for a few games of Texas Hold Em, after winning the first one I head to bed and leaving Steve to lose some of our winnings.

LIVINGSTON, CASA DE IGUANA - Q120 (£12)

 

FRIDAY 23 JANUARY – Neither of us get much sleep.  Not only did we hear roosters all night but also dogs were barking and fighting underneath our cabin and people were up chatting until late.  No more cabins for me.  One of Rusty’s cooked breakfasts soon make us feel better especially the extras of brown sauce and marmite on toast.  He really does go out of his way to make you feel at home.  He has booked us on the boat to Rio Dulce, Q125 (£12.50) and this means they pick us up at his place.  At 9.30am our boatman arrives and we head off up the river.  The river soon becomes a deep jungle sided gorge with small homes at the edges.  Turn off up the Rio Tatin to a Mayan school where we are shown the goods that they make.  Further up the main river we stop to bathe in some hot springs.  Hot water emerges into the main river and they have created a pool to hold it back and so you can mix it with the cool river to get a bath at whatever temperature you want.  The river has now widened and along the banks we are interested to see the locals out doing washing and going about their business.  The last part of the 2-hour trip is a bumpy fast ride along the lake to Rio Dulce town.  It seems to be a very busy one street town.  We book on the Fuente del Norte bus to Poptun leaving at 1.30pm, Q35 (£3.50) then walk down to the pier to enjoy our picnic.  The bus is already full when we get on so we have to stand in the aisle.  Steve tries sitting on his bag but when I try it I find you can see nothing but get to smell everyone’s feet.  There are many young people sat down but no one shows any courtesy in offering up seats.  We reach a Police stop and all have to get off the bus whilst they walk through it.  Getting back on we must show identification.  I get back to the area where we were stood and take a seat temporarily, when the youth returns he says I can stay there.   Further on there is a fruit inspection so again we must all get off whilst they do a check.  By 3.30pm we have covered around 100km at get dropped off at the junction to Finca Ixobel.  As we haul our bags 1km up the bumpy drive it begins to rain.  This is a working farm where they grow produce, offer horse rides etc and let out rooms.  They seem to have everything from dorm beds up to private bungalows.  We settle on a double room linked to an unused dorm but with shared bathroom for Q90 (£9).  They are really welcoming and seem to have thought of everything you may need or want to know.  Evening meals are taken in the main house and you can have a single serve for Q45 (£4.50) or all you can eat buffet for Q60 (£6).  The price includes salad, garlic bread and home made bread, soft drinks and coffee and the food is excellent.  It also gives us a chance to meet and chat to other guests from around the world.  The music bar opens at 9pm and is down a track in the forest.  Under our umbrellas we head off down the muddy track for what seems like a mile to reach the welcoming bar with a roaring log fire.  Unfortunately the music is too loud for Steve to talk and even the fire isn’t enough to keep me warm so we just stop for 1 quick drink.

POPTUN, FINCA IXOBEL - Q90 (£9) double room

 

SATURDAY 24 JANUARY – We have had a quiet night even if the rain was a little noisy on the tin roof.  Unfortunately it is still raining when we get up and at breakfast we learn that the Pyramid Mountain is too muddy to climb and the other walking track is very muddy.  We could use a days rest so will still stay here.  They have Internet Q20 (£2) hour, and we find out Judy & Stan will not be visiting us.  Due to fly to Mexico City tomorrow and meet us on the west coast a family illness has caused them to cancel.  Shame we had not known a few days earlier as we would then have had time to go on to Honduras, hey ho.  We visit Nate and Jena in their camper.  They are a young couple that are heading down to Costa Rica in the hope of finding work but using the camper to make a holiday of the journey.  They give us tips about the west coast of Mexico and we can reciprocate with motorhome help.  It clears to a drizzle in the afternoon so we walk to the pond where you could normally enjoy a swim and the water slide but today struggle to stay upright on the muddy banks.  Late afternoon we are amazed to see a French motorhome arriving followed by another with Adrian and Danielle (who we have bumped into 5 times before).  Their trip is going very well but they are chancing it without motorhome insurance.  Again we have an excellent evening meal in the main house.  Our room is attached to a dorm and last night it was empty but tonight holds a group of 8 Israeli’s.  At 11pm we ask them to kindly lower the noise so they turn the music off and talk a little quieter but nothing blocks out the sound of snoring through the night. 

POPTUN 2, FINCA IXOBEL

 

SUNDAY 25 JANUARY – We chat to Danielle and Adrian and realise there is every chance we will bump into them again on the west coast of Mexico.  Nate and Jena have offered us a ride in the back of their camper so we clamber aboard for our trip to El Remate.  They seem to have the perfect vehicle for this part of the world; a 4wd pick up truck with a small but functional camper on the back.  We can’t see much from the back but it is considerably more comfortable than our last bus journey when Steve was sat on the floor.  A couple of hours later they drop us in the wood carving village of El Remate on the edge of Lago Peten Itza (Lake Peten).  It’s a lovely spot and we begin our walk along the street hunting for a room.  A couple of local lads latch on to us offering advice.  We compare a few things along the way and are tempted by a posh hotel with swimming pool for Q200 (£20) but when I see a double room with en suite at Hermano Pedro for Q90 (£9) I begin to wonder, as we will be out all day tomorrow.  The lad thinks I am hesitating over the price and offers a reduction to Q70 (£7).  I go through all the checks as to if it includes tax, whether that is the price for the room for two people etc, if it is quiet at night and then agree to take it.  We can see it is not going to be all that quiet as the accommodation is on the top floor of a house in a wooden room with rooms all the way along so our bed head backs onto the ones in the next room.  Having settled in we explore the village, which seems really friendly.  A road spurs off around the lake and there are lots more rooms available, some a little cheaper with no en suite, but nothing any better.  Pick up a pizza for lunch then return for siesta.  Take our evening meal at Casa Don David where we get a nice view of sunset over the lake.  Our hotel book us a shuttle bus to Tikal for tomorrow morning Q50 (£5) each return.  As usual we have a disturbed night with dogs barking and roosters crowing most of the time.

EL REMATE, HERMANO PEDRO –

Q70 DOUBLE EN SUITE (LATER FOUND TO BE PP) 

 

MONDAY 26 JANUARY – We get up at 5am ready for our 5.30am pick up.  Check out time at our hotel is 2pm so when we get back we will move to the nice hotel.  The mini bus arrives at 5.45am but doesn’t finish picking up others until after 6am so we have no chance of being at the site for sunrise.  Arrive at 6.30am and pay the hefty Q150 (£15) pp admission then stride off purposefully towards the main ruins.  Tikal was a huge city begun around 700BC when the Mayans settled here.  Much is still unexcavated but it is still at least 10km walk to visit most of the major buildings that have been unearthed.  We reach the Great Plaza with two pyramids facing each other.  You can climb one of them although access is by a wooden staircase at the side of it.  It’s very quiet so we press on to Temple V.  This one is much taller and access to the top is by a series of ladders.  Steve pulls out after the first few steps up but I go ahead and enjoy a great view from the top.  You can see Peten Lake and a few other temples poking up out of the jungle.  I am at the top alone on a narrow ledge and about to walk to the ladder when a couple of big vultures land in front of me.  They are now blocking my access to the ladder and don’t fly away as I inch closer.  I creep closer getting great photos and then realise that I am really near to them and they are not going to fly away.  I try shooing them off but only one goes.  I move closer but realise there is no room to squeeze past and am frightened that if I scare the bird it will either attack me or take off in my direction and me with no place to step aside.  Luckily something scares it and it takes off so I make a quick escape.   Meanwhile Steve has been spotting Spider monkeys in the trees.  We amble through the Plaza of the seven temples and the Lost World to get to the back of the park.  We’ve been hearing strange noises like wind rushing through the trees but now realise it is the howler monkeys.  The sound is incredible, like a cross between a roar and a bark and extremely loud and frightening.  We track them down near temple IV only to find they are very small black things.   Temple IV is the tallest at 64m and easy to climb up a staircase so we both head to the top and sit there enjoying the views.  We have really seen all we want to but it is only 8.30am.  Decide to detour out to the temple of inscriptions but the inscription is very basic and too high up to see. Overall we are somewhat disappointed with the site compared to other things we have seen in the past but I guess is this was your first Mayan site it would be really good.  Stop for breakfast at the Jaguar Inn then catch the 12.00 mini bus back.  Back at the posh hotel they have put their price up to Q350 (£35) as yesterday they were empty and had reduced it.  Decide to stay put and it is interesting to see that today we are the only guests at Hermano Pedro.  In the evening we go across the road to watch sunset from Restaurant Cahui and to enjoy one of their delicious pasta meals.  Opposite is a small church and we hear the same singing we heard last night.  Passing the entrance we are invited in and enjoy seeing some very young children sing individually accompanied by a young lad on the drums and the congregation who all clap.

EL REMATE 2 - HERMANO PEDRO

 

TUESDAY 27 JANUARY – We come to pay the bill but they ask double the price quoted.  The girl says the price is per person not for the room but we repeat the conversation we had when we negotiated with her brother.  She then tells us her brother doesn’t work there!  We explain that their rooms are nicer than others but would not have stayed there for Q70 pp as there are many places at Q60 per room and we did not need the bathroom.  End up having to speak to the boss on the telephone and he is not happy but agrees to the lower price.  Next she won’t accept our US$20 note even through their tariff board shows both currencies. Seems a little strange as I go to the restaurant nearby and get Q146 then give here the Q140 as agreed.   It is less than 2km walk out to the main road at Puente Ixlu (El Cruce) where within minutes we are picked up by a collectivo.  Q25 (£2.50) gets us a ride to the border.  Over 1-hour to make the short journey as the bulk of the road is in terrible shape.  We have been told the Guatemalans won’t maintain it, as it is disputed territory and also if the Belizeans invade it will slow them down!  In the border town of Melchor de Mencos we spend our last few quetzals only to find they want a departure tax (having enquired before and told there was none).  They ask for Q20 (£2) then say they will take B$10 but settle for $5 (£3.30) but won’t give us a receipt!  Entry to BELIZE is really easy and we are through in minutes.  We are now in the middle of nowhere and must take a taxi 3km to the town of Benque Viejo del Carmen.  The driver asks US$10 (£7) but settles for US$5.  Chatting en route he says how quiet it is and offers to take us all the way to San Ignacio for a total of US$10 – deal.  He drops us by an information centre and they allow us to use their phone to call our host.  Marcus tells us how to get out to their place at Bullet Tree Falls so we head off to find a collectivo.  B$6 (£3) gets us both a ride to Parrots Nest where Marcus is waiting to meet us.  He’s a really lively guy and tells us that Theo, his girlfriend, runs the lodge whilst he teaches at night school.  Very knowledgeable on the area he tells us about lots of possible trips but they all seem very expensive and I am feeling a bit sickly and not too lively.  He says Theo has also been feeling sickly today as there is a bug doing the rounds.  I think mine is a mixture of aching from climbing the ruins, a chill from cold nights and not enough blankets for the beds, tiredness and bit of sickness.  Theo returns with her children Chloe and Katya and we have a bit of a chat.  They had a terrible flood through here in October and she shows us just how high.  It is amazing how much they have done since then with the help of lot of friends but it explains why our cabin is a bit wonky!  In the evening she takes us into town along with their other guests Rueben and Catherine so we can get a take away from “Hannas”.  By the time we get back both Catherine and I feel too sick to eat any of it.  I retire for an early night but get little sleep due to noisy dogs, roosters and things dropping onto the tin roof.

SAN IGNACIO, BULLET TREE FALLS, PARROTS NEST

 

WEDNESDAY 28 JANUARY – It has been another noisy night with dogs barking, roosters crowing and at one stage one of the dogs on our doorstep scratching then banging its tail on the door.  I’m still not feeling well and although Marcus mentioned tubing on the river I just want to rest.  Katya is also feeling sickly and stays off school.  There are some huge iguanas here and Steve takes great delight in tracking them down, watching them climb the trees and occasionally fall off.  By mid afternoon I’m a little better but Steve is making lots of trips to the toilet with a griping stomach.  I manage a dip in the river in the afternoon.  It’s a gorgeous spot here as the river has a pebbly beach, is clear and warm and deep enough for a nice dip but too strong a current to swim.  Theo is late back as Chloe’s team got further than expected in a basketball tournament in Belmopan.  She sees that I am reading one of their books “P.O. Belize” and tells me the author Kathy Stephens is her mother.

BULLET TREE FALLS 2 

 

THURSDAY 29 JANUARY – The bad night continues as I feel something jumping around in the bed.  By torch light I try to waft it out thinking it must be some kind of bug.  When I wake up in the morning to see a tree frog sat at the side of the bed I am not amused.  I hate frogs and would have really freaked if I had known what it was.  Theo offers to take us to town on the school run so we leave around 8am.  Across the river in San Pedro she drops us off at the bus stop where we buy tickets for the 9am Amigos Belize luxury express bus to Chetumal, $25 (£18).  There are cheaper local buses but that would mean 2 changes and lots of hanging around and as we are both not well we splash out.  The bus arrives on time having left Flores at 5.30am.  It’s a Toyota Coaster and reasonably comfortable but by no means luxurious.  Our luggage is added to the pile already on the roof.  Just over 2-hours later we arrive at the docks in Belize where lots of people get off to go to the islands and others get on.  So many board that we have to put the aisle seats down and even then one person is left standing.  Make it to the Belize border around 2pm and alight to do immigration.  Each person has to pay B30 (£10) departure processing fee plus B7.50 (£2.50) parks and conservation toll if you have been in the country for more than 24 hours.  This is a very slow process with only one clerk.  Back on the bus for a couple of minutes then all off, including luggage, for the Mexican entrance formalities.  This is a breeze and we are through in minutes and still have the remainder of our 180-day tourist visa.  It’s good to be back in MEXICO, almost feels like coming home. By 3pm we are at the main ADO bus station and from nearby take a taxi, P40 (£2) to Kathe’s.  Harry is waiting for us but the gardener tells us Kathe is out on a day trip with a visiting friend.  It’s still hot enough to make it worthwhile us washing out our holiday clothes in the pool.  We are both whacked and I am in bed before 8pm and Steve shortly after. 

CALDERITAS 

 

FRIDAY 30 JANUARY – We have both enjoyed a peaceful night and slept so well we did not hear Kathe return at 9.30pm.  It’s a beautiful hot day with a nice breeze so we take the rest of the washing down to the pool and do everything including the sheets; feel like the women we saw on the banks of the Rio Dulce.  We are both still a bit tired, not 100% well and feeling grumpy but manage to get a few odd jobs done throughout the day.  I check over our banking and find we spent almost £500 on our 13 nights backpacking trip, almost double what we spend in the motorhome and with much less comfort but worth it get a feel of the other countries.  Still feel it was the right decision for us, as we would not like to have taken Harry in without full insurance cover.

CALDERITAS 2

 

SATURDAY 31 JANUARY – We get up late again and Kathe has already left to take her friend to Cancun airport so we leave here a “Thank You” card.  In Chetumal we fill up the gas, get LPG and then do a grocery shop at Bodega, a.k.a Wal-Mart.  Around 10.30am we are ready to head west towards Palenque.  In fact we are now heading back towards USA, as the backpacking trip was our furthest point south.  Our first stop is to buy 3 good sized pineapples for P25 (£1.25), I cut one up straight away and we munch it as we drive along.  Going from the state of Quintana Roo into Campeche there is an inspection point, supposedly to confiscate eggs, pork and poultry.  A solider looks in our fridge then his mate on the doorstep asks if we have beer or coke – I say no even though beer is evident in the fridge.  A few yards further we are stopped for paperwork and they check the vehicle permit and our passports.  The road has been good so far but now becomes a mixture of good old road, bad old road, good new road, badly made new road and road works all complicated by topes either signed or un signed.  Driving here sure is interesting.  Kevin & Ruth came through a few days ago and told us about a Maya Campestre near km52 where they let you park overnight.  It is a lovely spot on the lake and we take a mid afternoon meal in their restaurant.  We still don’t have our appetites back so share a P70 (£3.50) Mexican special fish dinner of a whole fish cooked in tomato, garlic, onion and cilantro and served with tortillas.  3 motorcyclists arrive at the restaurant.  A Frenchman who lives in New York and his friend are cycling to Buenos Aires to set up a business and another American has recently joined them but is on his way to Argentina.  There are peacocks, chickens and roosters here but unlike Belize and Guatemala they seem to have their act together and all crow at the same time!

Hwy 186, Km 52, Restaurant Maya Campestre

148 miles

200901

 

THURSDAY 1 JANUARY 2009 – It is 9am and we are chatting to Carmen getting ready to leave when a taxi rolls up.  One of the Finish girls is unconscious in the front seat.  We manage to rouse her and get her to produce enough money from out of her bra to pay the taxi drive.  Carmen says she got a phone call a few hours ago from a guy in a car with the two girls asking where they lived.  The person themselves sounded drunk so Carmen suggested he put them in a taxi back.  It has taken until now for a taxi to show up but with only one of them, apparently the other has gone off with a man.  Guess they must have had a good time but for girls aged 29 and 40 we are a bit surprised at them leaving themselves so vulnerable although it now makes us less surprised by the story that one of them was mugged in Cuba a few days ago.  Kevin & Ruth want to see the hotel zone so we set off that way and see a few bars still open with customers.  Further south there is only one road and it runs near the coast so you would expect beach access roads.  This is not the case as it is full of huge luxury resorts with security at the gate.  Just north of Playa del Carmen Kevin has found us a Couchsurfing host in Sacbe.  This is a small ecological community inland.  People buy plots of land and build their own homes, using lots of natural materials, and have solar and wind power.  It is all in the jungle and the access roads are narrow with lots of trees so it’s an interesting drive in to say the least.  At one stage Ruth is up on the ladder watching the clearance as Kevin drives below low branches.  Surprisingly we make it to the far end to find the “white house”.  Lynn Earle was born in England, raised in Canada then moved here a few years ago.  She takes us for a walk around, explains the development and shows us some of the cenotes.  Due to the limestone here Yucatan has no above ground rivers but a honeycomb of these underground springs, rivers and caves.  There are many access points; Lynn even has a small one in her garden.  We have all had little sleep so afternoon siestas are the order of the day. 

SACBE

49 MILES

 

FRIDAY 2 JANUARY – Lynn has an open invitation for morning coffee and there we meet Tom & Joanne who are in the process of building a tree house here.  “Flower Bill” and his wife Jacqui have almost completed their home but have just built an extension that is being used by his sister Phemie.  We are invited to look around and love the extension where glass bottles have been embedded sideways in the concrete to create colourful windows with others inset with the necks sticking out to create hangers.  Their bedroom has a double bed that hangs by rope from the ceiling.  Tom & Jacque’s place is the tree house with room sections in different trees linked by skywalks.  Most people have built of wood and instead of windows have a fly screen large opening and a low thatched roof to keep most of the rain out.  Next-door is a huge concrete monstrosity whose owners are in dispute with someone in the community so it has been left to go to ruin.  Tom shows us some smaller cenotes and one has stalagmites that look like the New York skyline.  Early afternoon we set off in a car convoy to the beach.  Most people here have dogs and the nearest good beach that allows them is Xpu-Ha (Pronounced Ish Poo Ha).  Traffic is bad and made worse by the military checkpoint, road works and an accident.  Beach access is restricted but in this area you can pay to park at a campground or restaurant.  They enter at X7 Bonanza, P25 (£1.25) pp per day.  RV camping here is P150 (£7.50) and security tell us there is room for 2 motorhomes but we would love to know where as it is difficult to park 2 cars.  It is a pleasant bay but very busy.  Kevin, Steve & I decide to walk around to check out the camping options.  There’s a huge abandoned hotel nearby but access to their car park is security controlled and they want P100 (£5) per motorhome per night to park outside their gates leaving us a long walk to the beach.  Walking around the hotel it seems odd that no one has resurrected it as it was obviously very nice in its time and doesn’t look beyond repair.   Not sure whether this is one of the hurricane/insurance jobs or a money laundering affair – another Mexican mystery.  Further along the beach there is another campground north of Bonanza where we see Dean & Pinar’s motorhome and Aidan and Danielle’s but they are all out.  Others tell us the monthly rate is $450 (£300) and there looks like just enough space to squeeze us in.  Further along the beach there are no more camping options just an all-inclusive resort and small restaurants without good road access.  Back at the second campground we find the owner, Cellos, and negotiate $10 (£6.50), or P120 a day without facilities and arrange to arrive tomorrow.  It’s far from perfect but by far the best option we have had for ages and we all need a beach fix.  In the evening I invite K&R and Lynn for a chilli in our motorhome to round off the day.

SACBE 2

 

SATURDAY 3 JANUARY – Kevin suggested a 6am start to beat the traffic and get to the campground before the car park fills and blocks our access.  This is deferred to a more sensible 7am but they struggle to make it.  Not to worry as traffic is light and we arrive around 8.30am ahead of the day visitors.  We squeeze between two rigs on a site that no one wants because the electricity is not working whilst Kevin ends up on a sandy space opposite.  Catch up on news from Dean & Pinar and also Aidan & Danielle who have all been here for quite some time.  It would appear that everyone has realised this is the best and most reasonably priced spot along this coast.  Dean also smashed his wing mirror at the same place we did so we help him out with advice on fixing it.  We have a very pleasant morning on the beach then after lunch stroll to Bonanza.  Yesterday we met the parents of an English couple who are motorcycling round the world and want to chat to them.  Simon & Lisa set are 8 years into a 2 year trip but on a more challenging one than us.  At the moment her parents are visiting from England and fellow cyclist Graham is chilling out with them having been inspired by their web site www.2ridetheworld.com.  Late afternoon we walk to the far end of the beach then return for a card evening.

XPU HA BEACH CAMPGROUND

$10 (£6.65)

 

SUNDAY 4 JANUARY – We noticed many topless sunbathers in front of the hotel area so locate ourselves there in order to partake (Steve would have been most uncomfortable being topless alone!).  Ruth has invited us to lunch so we return for that and are joined by Dean & Pinar who also bring along a contribution.  Unfortunately Pinar is vegetarian so her salad and cabbage rice dish don’t appeal to me being a choc-ice and chips kind of girl.  We are keeping out of the sun in the heat of the day so wait until late afternoon to walk south and around a couple of headlands to a cenote that empties into the ocean.  Although the sea and fresh water mix the main pool is mainly fresh and lovely for a cooling dip.  It is so quiet there that we stay for sometime just watching the waves.  Finish the day with cards and a movie at K&R’s.  Reckon we could handle a good few days here.  Kevin is not such a beach bum as the rest of us but he will also be happy as he has managed to buy a 2-week Internet package for P125 (£12.50).  Not such a good night as the beach dogs kept setting of rounds of barking. 

XPU HA BEACH 2

 

MONDAY 5 JANUARY – We break up our morning beach stint with a walk to the north end passing more derelict hotels and restaurants.  In the evening we join our neighbours Andy & Margie for drinks along with Dean and Pinar.  Andy is from Walsall but has spent most of his life living in Germany where he met his wife.  They then moved to Jersey but now live in Alberta.  He has a fantastic stereo system where he bought a satellite package with his new car for $500 (£350) for life.  The fascia can be removed and fitted into a “boom box” which he is now using in his caravan or the full stereo system he has at home.  With it he has 24-hour choices of 100 channels of continuous music and we really enjoy the 60’s stuff.  Margie brings out her rum special drinks; they are almost entirely rum with just a hint of tonic and a squirt of lime.  One is enough for me but Dean & Pinar manage a few more and after we have left we lie in bed listening to their attempts at singing.  Dean is so bad at one point that Steve goes round with a bucket of water threatening to throw it on the strangled cats!

XPU HA 3

 

TUESDAY 6 JANAURY – Morning and afternoon sessions on the beach, a bit of hand washing and an afternoon siesta completes our day in paradise.

XPU HA 4 

 

WEDNESDAY 7 JANUARY – We are getting into a nice routine now.  First thing in the morning we do any odd jobs before it gets hot.  After a morning on the beach we walk up to the cenote late afternoon.  For the first time in ages we get a bit of rain in the evening but we are not surprised as the temperature has been climbing steadily and it usually culminates in a storm in the tropics.

XPU HA 5

 

THURSDAY 8 JANUARY – Call in at Bonanza and chat to the biker’s parents.  On the beach Graham gives us more info on Belize and Guatemala.  He is on his way down to Panama and Central America alone on his motorbike and like so many people sees this as a 2-year trip that may grow!  Kevin & Ruth want to go cycling in the afternoon and ask us to look after Whiskey giving me the chance to use Kevin’s Internet connection.  They go to Puerto Aventura and report of the Dolphin Experience.  People pay big money (prices are only in US$ so that tells you something) to interact with the friendly dolphins in a pool and you can buy combo packages to include manatee and seal experiences as well.

XPU HA 6

 

FRIDAY 9 JANUARY – Dean & Pinar head onwards; we may yet catch up with them on the west coast, although Pinar is talking of flying home from Acapulco. On the beach in the morning we chat to Graham and invite him for lunch.  He is motorcycling down to South America but has previously visited Guatemala and Belize so as he puts it we have a “cross pollination” of information.  In the afternoon I put a colour on my hair and do a mud face pack.  Luckily there are few people around, as I must look pretty scary covered in mud with a shower cap on. 

XPU HA 7

 

SATURDAY 10 JANUARY – Along with Kevin & Ruth we head north to the end of the beach.  We want to look at Xpu-Ha cenote but it is on private land but if you tell the guard you are at a certain hotel he will let you through.  It is part of the Palace Hotel complex but this front area has been devastated by storms.  We reach a lagoon and head inland to find the jungle cenote.  Steve & Ruth do a bit of snorkelling but don’t find anything of great interest and the water is so clear you can see most things without getting wet.  In the afternoon a very early happy hour begins at Andy’s next door.   This rolls on to the beach happy hour where Mike, Jacques and Bill are camped.  Graham calls round to return a book and to load episodes of  “Long Way Round and down” onto my laptop.  

XPU HA 8

 

SUNDAY 11 JANUARY – Kevin spoke to Chelleos yesterday and he said he would come for our money at 8am but of course no one shows up.  We find Victor and pay him the agreed amount.  On reaching the gate we are barred, first they don’t believe we paid and then they say we must pay the regular price of $15 when we agreed $10 just for parking.  They try to get more money from us but we stand fast and say 3 of us were there when Chelleos agreed the price.  We are not surprised as Dean had a similar problem when he had agreed $12, got asked for $15 and between running back to get the difference they told him the exchange rate to pesos had gone up.  Bad business in our opinion.  Anyway we finally get away and 17 miles down the road turn off to Xcacel beach with the turtle sanctuary.  It isn’t nesting season but it is still a nice beach with snorkelling and a cenote.  The guard says the price is P10 (50p) pp admission or P30 (£1.50) if we want to stay overnight.  We ask to look at the beach before deciding.  Kevin & Ruth now have a problem as they would like to stay but pets are not allowed.  The guard says they can walk Whiskey up the drive but that’s all and they don’t want to settle for that.  Meanwhile he has told Kevin the price is P100 (£5) because we have big vehicles (the same ones he saw when we first asked!).  We like it here so opt to stay and catch up another day.  It’s a really quiet beach and we spend the morning at the north end. Between about 1pm and 4pm it is really busy with locals.  The cenote at the south end is approached on a log path through a mangrove forest and quite attractive.  We have a very quiet night with no noise at all.

XCACEL BEACH

P100 (£5)

 

MONDAY 12 JANUARY – We drive out at 7.30am to find the main entranced chained off.  Steve has to go back to wake the guy up to let us out (he said it would be open from 7am).  In Tulum we drive out to the beach area, which has a relaxed backpacker feel with lots of simple huts.  You can stay in the car park of the fishing co-op in the motorhome (P80 pp).  Park up and check out the beach and the view of the superbly located ruins a little further north.  We’re half tempted to stay but our friend Sandra has just book to fly into Acapulco next month and we are not sure how much spare time we have.  The road to Chetumal is good on the whole and we make great time.  Bacalar looks a nice place to stop but it’s raining so the lagoon doesn’t look its best.  RV’er Cathe lives just north of Calderitas and there we find her home “Maricasa” and Kevin & Ruth parked in the garden.  Cathe moved here many years ago and has a large plot of land on the lake with two apartments.  She lives in one and rents out the other but at the moment has family staying in it.   K&R show us around the large garden complete with natural spring flowing into the lagoon.  We get more rain so settle for a card afternoon.  Ruth cooks delicious spaghetti bolognaises for supper and we round of with more cards and travel planning.

CALDERITAS

 

TUESDAY 13 JANUARY – We get heavy rain in the night and the storm is still rumbling when we get up.  I begin packing for our backpacking trip, 2 or 3 weeks around Belize and NE Guatemala.  The afternoon is dry so making use of the water from the fresh water pool we Steve washing the motorhome and I bathe in the pool.  Ruth & I give each other a pedicure.  We want to turn the fridge/freezer off when we leave and have lots of food to eat up so I cook a pork roast for us all at night.

CALDERITAS 2

 

WEDNESDAY 14 JANUARY – We all pile in a taxi to town, P70 (£3.50), as Kathe has booked us an appointment at the dentist.  It seems his speciality is cosmetic dentistry and before I know it I no longer have any gaps in my front teeth as he has built up the two either side of the front ones.  He wants to replace my enamel fillings with amalgam so I will return for that later.  Steve has a check and clean up and my caps are P500 (£25) each as is Steve’s clean up.  Kevin gets fitted for a new bridge and Ruth needs nothing so we are all happy with the result.  Walking through town we try to pay our tourist visa at the banks.  All say that we should have another piece of paper but we all only got one copy.  Eventually a clerk tells us to go to the “Hacienda Federales” where luckily a customer can translate.  We must go to a bookstore and buy a special form, take this to the immigration office on the outskirts of town, get this completed, return to the Hacienda to get it stamped and then go to the bank.  Tourist office tells us immigration is open until 4pm but we arrive to find it is only open 9am - 1pm.   It’s all a bit of a pain as we planned to leave first thing tomorrow for the border and may yet do that and take a chance.  We still have a bit of food to use from emptying the freezer so invite Kathe, Kevin & Ruth to join us for cottage pie.  Kathe tells us we should have no problem at the border as many people just go into the “free zone” for the day so we could sail past without handing in our tourist card.  She also tells us a huge storm is heading for the Yucatan peninsula with winds up to 120 kph.  Discussing it later we decide that we can’t take the risk as re-entry without the original card means they only give us one for 15 days and this is too short.  Guess we are British and not used to messing with officials!

CALDERITAS 3

 

THURSDAY 15 JANUARY – Get up to more heavy rain, certainly not the kind of weather conducive to back packing.  We have a taxi booked and intend to go to the immigration office and make a final decision based on their information.  Whilst waiting we talk ourselves in and out of the trip plan many times and when the taxi doesn’t show up we see this as an omen that we should not go.  Kevin has a problem as his fridge has stopped working, double problem as Kathe already told us hers was too full to store any food for us and ours has been turned off and we are almost out of gas.  Steve helps Kevin who decides to try and dry the connections with a hairdryer.  He then finds his generator won’t start but in the process the exhaust pipe drops off.  Mid afternoon we try our generator to try and help Kev but our battery is too low for it to kick in.  Talk about a day when things go wrong!  Kevin has been on the Internet and tells us he can see no sign of the approaching storm and in fact it should be better weather on Sunday.  Late afternoon it has dried up and we reassess our trip with me doing a "for and against" list.  Finally decide we will take our luggage and go to immigration in the morning and if we sort out the tourist card payment and they can assure us we can come back in for the remainder of the original 180 days we will proceed. 

CALDERITAS 4