Wednesday 1 April  1998    We both still stink and take another shower before leaving the car park.  Back at Milazzo beach we wash all the clothes to try and rid the van of the sulphur smell.  The weather has definitely changed and we enjoy a full day sunbathing in hot weather.
MILAZZO BEACH

Thursday 2 April  Spoke too soon as we wake to cold, rainy, windy weather.  Fortunately we had planned to move on today anyway.  Arrive in Messina around 11.00 in time to catch the Astronomical clock performing the full repertoire at noon.  Traffic and parking pose a problem and I end up leaving Steve and jogging to the campanile.  Steve arrives before me and we both prepare to watch the show.  The lion roars, the cock crows, all the people move etc but not today.  The lion just about manages to yawn before the display grinds to a halt!  Ferry back to mainland Italy and then a fast drive (well 55 m.p.h.) up the toll free A3 Autostrade.  Some very innovative displays of Oranges for sale at the side of the road but no obvious signs of how to get them.  A car transporter has had problems with a low bridge and bashed the top front car.  A flyover has collapsed and we detour onto the old road.  255 miles further and at 7.00pm we park up on a motorway service area level with Paestum where we plan to go in the morning.
PAESTUM

Friday 3 April  A better day and we arrive at the site early.  Most of the temples are covered in scaffolding and we a debating whether to go in or not when a man tells us all the museums and sites in Italy are free until this Sunday.  We visit both the site and museum (normally £8,000 each) but are not over impressed.  On the way in we meet Mel and his Mum Elizabeth from London - touring France and Italy by car.  In the afternoon we join them in their car for a ride up into the mountains.  We find a very quaint little village with the Christmas tree still trimmed up, tiny narrow streets with lots of archways and splendid views.  As we leave we see an old guy laying in the ditch and pull up to check he is OK  He is fine and we guess the other two we see further along are also quite happy lying there (we think the local Vino must have kicked in). Drive further North to Camping Spartacus at Pompeii.  What a shock this area is - very commercialised and all built up.  Check out the site for tomorrow and I end up buying a lovely little photograph size book with pictures of the existing site with transparent reconstruction pictures that slot on top.  This confuses the issue as the book has pictures of Herculaneum as well which we now also want to visit.  These are two of the most expensive sites in Italy at £12,000 each so I think we will be getting good value out of the culture week promotion.
POMPEII - CAMPING SPARTACUS

Saturday 4 April  Up bright an early for an 8.00am start to catch the train to Herculaneum (Ercolano).  Again very reasonable at £2,200 (70p) one way.  The train station is about 15 minutes walk from the site through the town crowded with shoppers at the street markets.  We arrive just after it has opened and spend the first hour almost alone.  What a fantastic place.  When Vesuvius erupted in 79AD the ancient town was buried under the mud and remained there until the 18c.  The mud preserved the bricks and wood of the houses and also encased the population that died whilst trying to flee.  A technique has now been perfected of pouring plaster  into the spaces where the bodies would have been and recreating the figures of humans and pets huddled or contorted  trying to shield themselves from the lava.  Lots of quality frescoes and mosaics make this a fascinating place and we spend over 3 hours browsing.  Train back to Pompeii where we make a quick visit to the Vesuvius museum before retreating to the van to freshen up.  1.15pm and we are entering Pompei.  Much larger than Herculaneum the ruins fared less well as it was nearer the volcano and the hot volcanic cinders burnt a lot of it.  Again magnificent frescoes, mosaics, buildings and recreated corpses.  You can even see furniture in the houses that were carbonated and have been welded in place.  The more recent excavations show everything in place where it was found and this gives you a better idea of the buildings usage - Wine shops, bakeries, grocers, brothels etc. We spend over 5 hours being mesmerised by the whole place and cannot stress strongly enough how fabulous both sites are.  I  think if the weather had not been so very hot we would have stayed just a little longer until they closed at 7.00pm but our feet are worn out.  Foot massages are the order of the day on return to the van in preparation of another hard slog tomorrow.
POMPEII - CAMPING SPARTACUS 2

Sunday 5 April  Another glorious day and another early start.  Train into Naples (£4,000) and then Metro (90 minute ticket for Metro, Busses and Funiculars is just £1,500/50p) to the archaeological museum.  An exceptional place with most of the displays coming from Pompei and Herculaneum.  When the sites were first excavated the frescoes, mosaics and statues were removed as the methods of preservation were not good enough for them to be left.  Huge marble statues, hundreds of frescoes and mosaics impress us.  Smaller items including the armour of the Gladiators and kitchenware also prove interesting as they have been so well preserved.  The Villa Communale down by the bay seems to be the "in" place for locals at weekends.  Body builders pose, Scooters tootle past and Rollers Bladers complete the California type scene.  We visit the Villa Pignatelli and the Aquarium before starting our walk past the major sights.  The Palace, Theatre and Castle in the harbour district followed by an area of around 1 square mile in the old town containing over 30 churches. Ambling round these dark gloomy streets you get a sense of how Naples gets it's bad reputation but we feel safe and are amazed at how the churches pop up in amongst the houses in the most unlikely places. Everything is so cramped that you can be in a Piazza with three churches and not be able to stand back far enough to see any one in it's entirety. A small shop is advertising wine from the barrel and we buy a litre for 70p. Next we see a line of people queuing for 1 foot long (sorry 30cm) French sticks with various fillings that are then microwaved.  Steve has Spicy meat and I have Double Egg & chips and realise that the locals know what value is at 80p each. Who says it is expensive to eat in Naples. We sit in a doorway and enjoy our feast until the security dog comes and barks at us from the inside.  Return footsore and weary but far more impressed with Naples than we had anticipated.  Get chatting to an American family - Steve and Sam Rounds with daughter Ruth.  They have driven down from Bonn where he works at the American Embassy.  End up having drinks back in our van and they stay until 10pm.  So much for our early night!
POMPEII - CAMPING SPARTACUS 3

Monday 6 April  Happy 21st Birthday Claire, our thoughts are with you today.  We make an early start and catch the 7.47am train to Sorrento (£2,100).  There are loads of school kids on board and all the ones near us are rolling and then smoking joints, think we will be high by the time we arrive.  Change onto the coach to take us along the coast to Amalfi (£3,700).  This is the most spectacular corniche road in Italy and Steve is very glad not to be driving (He says that if he had been he would have sweaty bo---cks and sh--y pants by the end!).  A hair raising trip along very narrow winding roads but with breath taking views down to the rocky shore below.    Lots of famous people have Villas here including Roger Moore and Sophie Loren.  The coaches tank along and blast their air horns at the bends and just hope the cars will stop.  We have a few close shaves squeezing past buses -  much too close for comfort had we been in our van.  Enjoy  the trip so much we change onto a local bus and continue up into the mountains to Ravello (£1,700).  This is a pretty village high above Amalfi and the route is strewn terraces full of Lemon trees.  There is a big market in a local liqueur, soap, cologne, freshly squeezed juice in Slush Puppy and numerous other things made out of the enormous Lemons.  The main reason for coming here is the view but the weather is not so great today and our view is masked by clouds so after a stroll around we go back to admire the fantastic Cathedral in Amalfi. The entrance is from the main square up loads of steps.  The gold mosaic shows the twelve apostles and the facade is studded with huge multi coloured stones.  The disciple St Andrew is buried here and most of the pictures in the church depict him.  We had planned to take a boat back along the coast to Capri but the sea is choppy and the boats not running so it is the "switchback hang onto your seats" coach journey again.  From Sorrento we catch the Jet boat (£10,000) to Capri..  The funicular (£1,500) then takes you up to the main town.  We choose to take a circular walk down to the South coast and then around the Eastern end of the Island.  Again many famous people have or had Villas here including Gracie Fields and DH Lawrence and we try to guess which ones belong to the stars.  I didn't realise how hilly our proposed route was and we arrive back cream crackered again from climbing up and down hundreds of steps and just in time to catch the last trip back to Sorrento.  The ferry (£5,500) leaves at 18.45 and gets us back to Sorrrento at 19.35 giving us time to stroll around and stop for a meal before catching the last train back to Pompei.  We celebrate Claire's Birthday in style - I have Spaghetti Amatriciana and Steve has mixed Hors D'oeuvres followed by Mussels in Black Pepper sauce.
POMPEII - CAMPING SPARTACUS 4

Tuesday 7 April  We plan to leave today so I get up early to prepare but cut my big toe rather badly which leaves me hobbling around. The sky is cloud free and by 10.00am it hot and so we change our minds.  Enjoy a nice leisurely day sitting sunbathing and sorting our washing out. A nice change as I feel we have been on the "fast track" since we arrived in Sicily 3 weeks ago.  We definitely intend to slow down after our visit to Rome.
POMPEII - CAMPING SPARTACUS 5

Wednesday 8 April  Pay a toll on joining the motorway at Pompei (£2,000) and again to come off at Caserta (£1,700) to visit the Palace.  As we leave the motorway we see signs for Carrefour so detour to do a good shop.  The Palace (£8,000) is a little disappointing but the baroque park (£4,000) is fantastic.  A 3km walk through the formal gardens takes us past lots of fountains with mythological creatures and to the grandiose Cascata di Diana.  Water falls 250 feet from the Carolina aqueduct over natural rocks then onto statues of Actaeon transformed into a stag and devoured by his dogs for watching the goddess at her bath. We sit on the grass in the hot sun and enjoy a picnic of freshly roasted chicken and crusty bread.  Catch the bus (£1,500) back as my big toe is throbbing.  We don't want to get too near to Rome tonight as Steve believes the Italian cup final is being played there tonight and the traffic will be bad.  Spend the night at the motorway services about 40 miles south - a lonely motorhome in amongst the lorries.
MOTORWAY 40 miles S ROME

Thursday 9 April    Awake to find ourselves surrounded by over 20 other motorhomes.  Steve panics that they are all heading to the same campsite as us in Rome and so we make a quick getaway. Pay a final toll (£14,500) and then join the "Grande Raccordo Anulare" - Rome's version of the M25 ring road or Rome's largest car park depending on the time of day.  Camping Flaminio is the nearest site to the city, very busy and one of the most expensive sites (£39,000/£13) but very convenient.  The bus and train stop nearby and by connecting  them with trams and metro we can reach most places in the city quite quickly.  Again a cheap public transport system with 75 minute tickets for £1,500 and a full days travel for £6,000.  Take the train and then the metro and check out the location of the hotels Pete & Carol, Paul & Elaine will be staying.  Steve gets chatting to the receptionist and learns that the cup final was played in Milan last night and Inter Milan beat Lazio 1-0 and the next game is to be played in Rome.   Decide to take a short walk to do a recce on opening times and special events for Easter weekend.  We stumble upon the Trevi fountain which is magnificent and exceed all expectations.  As I have said  before the Italians are superb with fountains and statues - and motorway bridges and tunnels. Rome driving combines all our worst previous experiences of  Italian motorists.  Terrible at driving and parking a fact made worse as the Police seem only to book anyone for double, triple parking etc when it causes a major problem and in general turn a blind eye.  The traffic lights work in reverse here with red appearing to mean go and green stop as everyone has already blocked the road.  Exiting a motorway involves staying in the outside lane until  the last moment, not indicating, swerving across and then pushing alongside any other cars queuing up to leave!  To cross at a pedestrian crossing don't look (or appear not to look) then  confidently step off the kerb and walk - any hesitation at all and the cars get in first.
ROME - CAMPING FLAMINIO

Friday 10 April   A morning sunbathing and idling and then around 4.00 we catch the train into town.  A nice leisurely stroll takes us to Paul & Elaine's by 7.30 for our 8.00 rendezvous.  9.00pm and still no sign but as we are debating if the sofas in the foyer are good enough for a night's sleep or if we should pretend to be them and take their room they appear.  Again it's good to see our friends and after a quick change we meet up at Pete & Carol's hotel.  Pete's priority is food so we head for a Trattoria that we spotted earlier.  The heavens open up and we get soaked in a torrential downpour and arrive looking liked drowned rats.  We are horrified but they say at least it is warmer than in England with the snow.  Enjoy a noisy boozy meal with non stop chatter and laughs - there is so much to catch up on since we saw them all last September.  They have had a pre trip planning meeting and Paul is in charge of the weekend's itinerary which lets me off the hook for a change.  The last connecting buses back to the campsite leave around 11.15pm so we disperse and agree and morning meeting by the Vatican at 9.00am.  I spend the bus journey trying to look through the bags of goodies brought from England and end up staying up until 1.30 reading all the letters which we love to receive.
ROME - CAMPING FLAMINIO 2

Saturday 11 April  First stop the queue for the Vatican Museum (£15,000) which although long is constantly on the move.  We enter and choose the C/three & half hour tour.  It is a huge place with over 4km of corridors connecting the various areas.   The only way to see the famous Sistine chapel is to visit the museum and do at least the A/short tour.  Start off together but Pete takes the lead followed closely by me, Steve, Carol & Elaine fall behind with Paul bringing up the rear. There is so much packed into the corridors and halls that you start to loose interest despite the fact that there are some wonderful things.  Once into the system you have to carry on with the route all the way through with the Sistine chapel near the end of the tour.  For most of us the highlight is the ceiling in the "Map corridor" with the Sistine chapel being a bit of a let down (Carol & Elaine were stand inside it debating where they are!).  Pete races ahead with the thought of a jug of Red wine to spur him on and it is a close finish a couple of hours later.  St Peter's square is being prepared for the Easter Sunday Papal blessing and the basilica is shrouded in scaffolding but non the less impressive inside.  The group decision is to walk back to the other bank of the River Tiber and stop somewhere for coffee but it takes us quite a long time and we end up stopping for lunch.  Steve finds a nice Pizzeria up a side alley and Pete is in seventh heaven with the Italian food and wine - we are all just as pleased but it is not quite as noticeable.  Head towards Piazza Navona with the beautiful fountains and Pete studies the menus (think he must be going to write a book about eating in Rome).   Ice cream stop en route to the Pantheon.  Continue on foot to the Trevi fountain and throw the obligatory coins (1 to return to Rome, 2 for eternal love and 3 for divorce).  We threw 2, Paul & Elaine 1 and Carol was busy hunting for 3 but had to settle for 1.  Back to the area of the Hotels (with a brief stop in a bar en route) for a quick freshen up before our evening meal.  The heavens open up again with the accompaniment of thunder and lightening.  Visit a nice Restaurant near Pete & Carol's hotel and enjoy the usual merriment.  My stomach is starting to hurt from so much non stop laughter.
ROME - CAMPING FLAMINIO 3

Sunday 12 April   Happy Easter.  We are woken early with heavy rain which turns into hail stones, thunder and lightening.  I give up trying to sleep and work on the computer.  Meet up at Paul & Elaine's hotel and set out walking down to the Coliseum (£10,000).  Spectacular inside as so much can still be seen, probably the best one we have been in.  Up through the Roman Forum to the main square where we are stunned by the number of motorhomes parked up.  Lunch at Ciao (a kind of Italian fast food restaurant specialising in Pizza).  Pete now decides that this has taken over as the best Pizza he has ever eaten. As usual our walking involves a lot of banter and lots of pauses for Pete to peruse menus.  Do a lot more walking and return to the Hotel area to select a restaurant for tonight.  This takes well over an hour and still leaves us with about 3 to choose from.  Regroup at 7.00pm for the final decision and settle in for our "Last Supper".  It's a small wonder we are not thrown out.  The volume and frequency of laughter increase with every bottle of wine.  We totally crack up when Pete comes to order dessert and asks "do you have a house tart?".  Tears stream down our faces and we have great difficulty regaining control of ourselves.  Reluctantly leave around 10.00 as we had problems getting buses this morning due to the limited Sunday service and don't want to be stranded tonight.  I think it will take me a few days for the stitch in my stomach to heal from so much laughing.   We are both shattered from getting very little sleep for the last few days and starting with colds from getting wet the other night but can live for a good while recollecting the anecdotes of the last few days and keep finding ourselves grinning to ourselves on the bus back.
ROME - CAMPING FLAMINIO 4

Monday 13 April  Leave the site at 11.30.  The weather is awful with lots of heavy rain.  Park up on the edge of Lake Vico amongst dozens of Italian motorhomes.  The weather deteriorates even further to heavy hail.  By early evening we are only one of two vans left and it is quite cold.  Seems like typical Easter Monday weather in England.  I am full of cold so settle for an early night but keep being disturb by heavy rain and hail bouncing on the roof.
LAKE VICO

Tuesday 14 April  At last the rain has stopped but it is cloudy just about warm but certainly not as warm as we would like it to be.  I finally have chance to sort through the photos etc. that Carol brought and get them labelled and in albums and even find the energy to write a couple of letters.  Watch some video in the evening but the generator starts to cough and splutter which we hope is due to the gas tank being low and not another little problem to contend with.
LAKE VICO 2

Wednesday 15 April  Bitterly cold in the night and once again the thermostat needle disappears.  The heating soon warms us up but uses almost all the remaining gas so we decided to push on.  Tank up with LPG and Diesel and drive to Orvieto.  The first views of the hilltop town are stunning.  Highlight of the town is the magnificent facade of the duomo.  Gothic in design with something of everything - gilt mosaic pictures, statues, jewelled twisted pillars, plaques with 3d biblical scenes and lots of other fancy tit bits.  My favourite so far in Italy but my all time number 1 still has to be Gaudi's creation in Barcelona.  The town itself is also very nice and in places looks like Haworth with lots of narrow steep cobbled streets.  We stumble on a small restaurant/bar "La Bottega del Buon Vino" where last year they discovered a very deep well and remains of civilised dwelling underneath, now open for investigation.  Wish we hadn't already eaten as it is such a nice small restaurant with lots of character and an interesting and reasonably priced menu.  Pete would have loved it.  Drive on to Todi and begin to notice lots of prostitutes at the sides of the road, nearly all black ladies wearing little more than underwear.  Todi provides us with a nice car park below the town where we can stay the night.   Our walk up into the town reveals little more than the pretty medieval square surrounded by the cathedral and palaces but it is nice to be away from the noise and hustle and bustle of  tourist places. 
TODI

Thursday 16 April    More rain in the night - what a surprise.  At least it is dry when we wake up and drive on.   We bumped into an English couple in a motorhome in Orvieto yesterday morning and again last night in Todi while he was sitting on the church steps painting a postcard.  He does this on a regular basis and sends them as a normal card.  They recommended that we visit Spoleto so plans revised we head east.  Lots of prostitutes en route cluttering up the lay bys.  Nearly all very dark coloured  "ladies" wearing little more than underwear and looking pretty uninviting.  Once again with these small hill towns ample parking is available in large free flat car park at the bottom.  We walk over the famous bridge which started out as an aqueduct and then became an escape route from the town castle.  At the end of the bridge we turn and look back an see the English couple following us over.  We get chatting and wander round the town together.  A very quiet un touristy Umbrian town with lots of narrow streets with arches.  Mike and Julia are visiting Italy for the 3rd time this time for 3 weeks.  They are returning to Spoleto to enjoy a drink in the lovely square overlooking the beautiful facade of the Duomo while Mike paints a postcard.  This is not to be as the main square is being resurfaced and the front of the Duomo shrouded in scaffolding - this bears out our theory that you should never go back anywhere.  Decide to eat together in a restaurant and sample the local cuisine.  Steve has an Umbrian type of mixed grill cooked over the fire and I sample the local rough cut pasta in a sauce with sausage, tomatoes and chilli.  In the afternoon we drive on to Assisi of St Francis fame and also the scene of the local earthquakes.  Easy parking with a few other vans and time for a stroll around the town leaving the big Basilica for tomorrow morning before the tourists arrive.  It is quite distressing to see how much damage the earthquakes have caused.  Most of the churches and many private houses are shored up.  The latest tremor was on 1st April and the first one last September.  We manage to go into the large church of St Claire, a life long friend of St Francis and the patron saint of T.V.  Apparently St Francis was a bit of a lad and when in Jail decided to reform.  A crucifix in this church bowed down to him and showed him the way.  A very unusual chapel underneath holds a casket with Claire's remains and a model lying on the top.  The church of St Stephen is a bit of a non event tucked away up a backstreet and very small and plain.  A huge area holds portacabins for temporary school and dormitory facilities.  Manage to make it back just before it starts to rain.  
ASSISI

Friday 17 April  Rain most of the night and still spitting when we set out.  We have made an early start as the book warns us that the place soon fills up with tourists and it can take a good few hours to do it justice - wrong.  Not a tour bus in sight and only the small lower Church is open the rest having suffered too much damage to be safe to visit. St Francis's tomb was recently discovered and is now the main display.  Half an hour later we leave but stop in the nearby village to look inside Santa Maria Degli Angeli.  Most unusual - St Francis died here when living with other peasants in nearby caves.  This area has now been incorporated in to the church in the form of a Rose garden.  Within the church is a shrine under an arched tunnel which women were crawling through before praying to his statue.  Lake Trasimeno looks like a good place to stop en route to Sienna and San Feliciano on the shores suits us well.  A small town but with tourist info (there is a Regatta tomorrow at one of the villages on the north shore) PO, shops and all the essentials.  Rain on and off and windy but with some bright spells in between.  This has to be the longest spell of bad weather since we started our life in a motorhome.
LAKE TRASIMENO

Saturday 18 April  Rain in night (think I should just start each day with ditto) but fine enough for us to drive to Passignano to watch the boats.  Park by the harbour and nothing seems to be happening so walk through the town stopping to peruse the Saturday market and stock up on joss sticks.  The tourist office know nothing at all about the Regatta despite it being advertised in a brochure at the place yesterday!  A walk up to the Castle ruins where an old man lives and a trip to one of the three Islands are recommended.  The Castle ruins are a total waste of time and the only sign of the inhabitant are flower tubs and a T.V. aerial.  Have to leg it back before we get soaked in a torrential downpour complete with thunder and lightening.  The rain stops after dinner and we move on to Tuoro the scene of Hannibal's massacre of thousands of Roman soldiers when he ambushed them and pushed them back into the marshy lake to drown.  An unusual feature at the Campo del Sole are 27 columns sculptured by artists from different countries and standing on the lakeshore in an ever decreasing spiral.  We pass lots of prossies wearing clothes today as it is cold.  Steve says they are wearing jump suits.  Well they are jumping up and down and sort of dancing to keep warm!   By luck we find a special parking spot for motorhomes in Sienna.  Fresh water and dumping facilities are provided and we park amongst over 20 vans from Italy, Germany, France, Holland and Switzerland.
SIENNA

Sunday 19 April   No rain in the night - no that is not an error we actually had a dry night and now a dry morning with clearer skies but some clouds.  It is a steep walk up hill into Sienna but the unusual sloping half circle main square with Palaces makes it worthwhile. Climb over 400 steps to the top of the Torre Grande for a birds eye view.  The Duomo is also spectacular inside and out and most of the streets hold our interest with unusual buildings.  Steve is swayed by the tourist menu outside a Chinese restaurant.  I have Crispy vegetable strips,  Pork and egg fried rice, Chicken with bamboo shoots and a 1/4 litre wine for £12.000 and Steve has Spring rolls, Prawn fried rice, Pork with mushrooms and bamboo shoots and wine for £14,000.   Fantastic value for such a good meal in a very attractive restaurant.  Further ambling reveals underwater springs forming pools under archways and a fake window on a building with a concrete figure of a topless girl peaking out and a large black spider dangling outside - any ideas?  I misread the map and take us on a very long detour back to the car park made much worse when the heavens open up.  Arrive back like drowned rats but an hour later it is sunny.
SIENNA 2

Monday 20 April  Now in Tuscany the book recommends we sample at least one hill town of three categories ranging from touristy to unscathed.  Monteriggioni is unscathed and very small with a complete city wall with towers at intervals.  It is sunny so we stay in the car park and sunbathe for an hour before it clouds over.  Colle Di Val D'Elsa is middle category with pretty winding streets, great views and lots of covered streets.  San Gimignano is definitely touristy.  The coaches fill the car parks and cars are parked on the grass verges leading to the town.  We drive around the edge of the town and off in all directions trying to park.  It looks impossible but the town is so striking with huge tower houses and the guide book makes it sound too good to give up on.  By luck we find a car park on the outskirts with barriers too narrow for us but with  waste ground below where we can park free of charge with great views over the valleys for miles beyond.   Sun again so we sit out until 5.00 and head for the town in the hope that some of the tourists will have left.  What a fantastic place - definitely recommended for a visit for anyone near Florence or Sienna.  Lots of everything - tower houses, churches, palaces, squares, pretty narrow streets, Americans, Germans etc.  Great photo opportunities as the sun casts a lovely golden glow on the pale stone of the buildings.  Spend a couple of hours absorbing everything including an ice cream from the famous shop recommended in all the guide books.  The chocolate is unbelievably chocolatey and I also try the other star flavour with a foreign name  tasting of coffee and cream with alcohol and lots of biscuity bits - yummy.  Back in the van we sit with the blinds up and enjoy watching the lights go on in the villages down the valley whilst eating our meal.
SAN GIMIGNANO

Tuesday 21 April   Warm and sunny morning with clear blue skies  Wow.  Up and away fast before it changes.  Free motorway to Florence and the toll to Sasso Marconi (£8,500).  Heading for a Naturist site we get lost so I ask for directions to the nearby village.  The girl in the bank goes to great trouble drawing me a map and then towards the end asks if we are heading for the convent or the Naturist site as the road forks.  The site is up in the mountains and we come unstuck with the direction when we have to pass under a railway line with a bridge showing 2.5m clearance (we need 3.2m).  Double back and find a railway crossing but this leads to a very narrow bridge.  Squeeze over the bridge and then up winding roads in the mountains.  We begin to see very unusual commemorative shrines and plaques and I read that this is the area where 1800 people were massacred in the war.  Eventually find the site and we are the only visitors.  Beautiful  terraced pitches in the woods where fortunately for us the trees haven't grown leaves yet.  Finally we can bare to sit out all day in the sun.  The B.B.Q. gets dusted off for our evening meal to complete a nice relaxing day. 
MARZABOTTO - CA'LE SCOPE

Wednesday 22 April  The sun is shining first thing and not a cloud in sight.  Settle down to serious sunbathing and the oil and lotion come into play.  By 4.00pm I am beginning to burn a little in areas not recently exposed and so we decided to go for a walk.  The campsite owner has kindly given us a good map of the area and suggests we walk to the top of the nearby mountain.  Well it may have looked nearby from the campsite but we have to cross two valleys involving up and down walking before actually starting the hill climb to 800 metres.  I loose track of the number of times we talk of turning back but we spur each other on and eventually reach the top where there is an old crucifix with Madonna and child and a newer huge metal one that looks like a pylon gone wrong.  Under the original one is a little cupboard containing pens and a visitors book.  I notice we are the only English visitors since this section of the loose leaf book started in February.  What a fantastic view over many more hills, valleys and small villages.  Our walk down seems a lot quicker and we arrive back at 6.45pm absolutely jiggered.
MARZABOTTO - CA'LE SCOPE 2

Thursday 23 April  Bad news - the clouds are back in force.  An ideal opportunity for catching up on videos, cleaning, letter writing etc.  Apart from the videos it all seems quite an effort which just goes to show how lazy we have become when it only takes half an hour to clean the inside of the van from top to bottom!  Actually I get stuck in and clean the oven as well as doing some clothes washing so a Brownie point for me today.  Manage to hop in and out a bit when we see the occasional bit of blue sky but hope for better things tomorrow.   Having spoken to Ian on the phone yesterday and having being proffered and invite we are now contemplating changing our plans and "popping" to Provence in France to visit him and Cynthia who we met last year in France.  This would also involve a lot of other changes to the itinerary but what the heck.  Will keep you informed as we chop and change our minds.  Another plan came to mind when Steve casually mentioned that he had never been (or can't remember) to Austria and it might be an idea to take in Salzburg and Innsbruck as well as Vienna.  Oh decisions decisions.
MARZABOTTO - CA'LE SCOPE 3

Friday 24 April  Hot and sunny all day so we sit out and absorb the sun.  An evening meal in the site restaurant proves interesting with all local dishes.  We are sat on a long bench with two other Dutch couples and enjoy good conversation in English of course as their English is a little better than our Dutch!
MARZABOTTO - CA'LE SCOPE 4

Saturday 25 April   Another hot and sunny day so our intentions of leaving early become a late departure at 4.00pm.  Arrive in Bologna just before 6.00pm and on walking into town we find lots of activities to celebrate "Liberation Weekend".  I had thought of Bologna as a big industrial town but the old Historical centre is nothing like that.  We park by the football stadium and walk along the pretty canal tow path to the town.  Wonderful buildings and kilometres of porticoes -  perfect shelter from the winter rain and summer sun. In the main church there is an unusual clock formed by the sun rays coming in through a hole in the roof and shining on a bronze line on the floor marked with the hours.  Raised tombs scattered around the piazzas holding the bones of scholars and even a leaning tower like Pisa.  More Italian Motorhomers' have joined us on the car park and we feel very safe staying for the night.  For the first time in ages we are so warm that we are considering putting the air conditioner on.
BOLOGNA

Sunday 26 April    An 8.00 start gets us further north to Ferrara by 9.30 where once again we find signs to a campervan friendly parking place with dozens of others already there.  Plan to make a quick visit into town but we are so taken with the place that we stay until 11.30 for the Medieval display at the castle and enjoy the quaint streets and palaces.  Leave at 12.30 but shortly after pull up on the banks of the River Po for our daily dose of sunbathing with lunch.  Evening finds us back in Vicenza ready for our visit to the American garage tomorrow for a service.  Again we find a special motorhome car park and are very amused to see all the Italians calling in on their way home to dump the toilet waste etc.
VICENZA

Monday 27 April    Drop the van at the garage and to pass the time we do a major shop at the nearby hypermarket.  I manage to spend more in the store than the garage can chalk up on their bill and that's saying something!    Park up for the afternoon in Vicenza hoping to sunbathe but shortly after the rain starts again. We meet an American guy named Rich Richens (think he must have modelled himself on Richie Rich from Bottom)  who lives in a Winnebago motorhome and works on the US Base.  We chat all afternoon and then  go for a meal in the evening which he insists on paying for.  He shows us a good place to park afterwards and we drink and play backgammon until after midnight.
VICENZA  2

Tuesday 28 April  Lots of rain again but we decide to press on with the tour.  Marostica just North has a claim to fame as the home of human chess.  Many years ago to decide who the Princess was to marry her suitors had to play a game of chess.  So the town could view a huge marble chess board was made in the square of the lower town and locals dressed up in costumes as the pieces.  This in re-enacted each September but also world-wide throughout the year.  We went up to the upper Castle for the view and into the lower Castle to see the costumes.   Continuous rain so on to Bassano del Grappa - home of Grappa which we tasted in a museum.  There is also an unusual wooden bridge built to withstand the pressure of the river when it floods and we got a perfect demonstration of this.  Oderzo our stop for the night where I do even more shopping at the very cheap Lidl supermarket (Austria had better be expensive after all this stocking up).  Ten pin bowling around the corner beckons and we get bargain games at £1 a time.  Just about remember how to do it and we both get reasonable scores mine 173, 163 and 125 and Steve 166,163 and 159.
ODERZO

Wednesday 29 April    More rain in the night and now we think our decision to head for Salzburg may have been the wrong one.  Drive to Grado a small town at the end of a causeway just before Trieste.  The approach is just like driving along Florida Keys.  Park with 3 German motorhomes on a grassy headland East of the main town.  Cycle into town and walk back following Steve's puncture and my chain breaking!  Nice weather from 3.00 onwards.  Steve finds a bar showing football in the evening to watch the Italian cup final.
GRADO

Thursday 30 April   Dry but dull day and so I finally finish putting the photos in order and labelling the album.  It's a good job we get a few bad days or nothing would get done.  Our evening meal is a bit of a surprise as the roast  beef turns out to be a side a gammon but is still goes down well with the roast potatoes and cauliflower!  It's getting busy on our "site" with vans arriving up until 1.00am.
GRADO2

 

SUNDAY 1 MARCH 1998 - Up and about early and into Athens on the bus for a 6-hour walking tour taking in all the major sites and areas.  Extend the tour by going up Livkados on the funicular and out the marble Olympic stadium. 8 hours later and with aching feet we catch a taxi back.  At least we've seen all that we had planned to see tomorrow as well.  Aromatherapy foot massages go down very well.  Meal at the local Chinese.
GLYFADDA 4

MONDAY 2 MARCH - Drive south to Cape Sounion and visit the Temple of Poseiden in a superb cliff top setting.  Proceed around the eastern coast of Attica to Parala Kakis Thelassas where we sunbathe for most of the afternoon.  There are a lot of Greeks here celebrating "clean Monday" bank holiday, the first day of lent.  Kites seem to be the order of the day with the Dads being left flying them whilst the kids play boules with Steve and John!
PARALIA KAKIS THAIASSAS - 55 MILES

TUESDAY 3 MARCH - Head north up the eastern Attica coast and stop at a lovely beach, just south of Rafina, for lunch and sunbathing.  Steve and John carry the table from the van to the beach heavily laden with wine, cheese, pate, saldas, pickled veg etc - a veritable feast.  Leave late afternoon and drive thorough Marathon from where the man ran 26 miles to Athens to warn of the invasion.  Drive over the marble dam on Lake Marathon and on to Krioneri.  Karen cooks a lovely meal of chilli pasta, it's like being taken to a restaurant as it is so nice.  Here's the recipe:-
1 tin tomatoes
 4 slices of bacon thinly chopped
1 large onion sliced.
4oz grated cheese.
1 teaspoon full of chilli powder.
Pasta shells. 
Put pasta on to cook.  Fry bacon until crisp then add onions.  When onions are soft stir in the chilli powder then add the tin of tomatoes and simmer away.  Once the pasta is cooked you drain it and stir in the sauce and then the cheese. 
KRIONERI - 64 MILES

WEDNESDAY 4 MARCH - Early start for our drive to Delphi.  Stop at Orhomenos to visit a tholos tomb but it is poor.  We get a bit lost in Livadhia where the market it filling the streets. On turning right at a junction we drive over one of a number of bags of potatoes on display in the road - oops.  At Delphi we check on to Camping Apollon, 5000Drs (£11) and sunbathe all afternoon.  In the evening we walk into town and meet an American gay called "Scott" who joins us for a drink.  We have a nice mixed meze meal at the local restaurant before catching a taxi back. 
DELPHI, CAMPING APOLLON - 110 MILES

THURSDAY 5 MARCH - Walk to the museum and site.  It's a fantastic location and we think the ruins are second only to the acropolis.  The clear blue skies and sun make it all the more attractive.  The site and museum cost 1200Drs (£5.20) each but are well worth it.  The site is spread over two different areas and we spend ages looking around.  I particularly like it once I have bought a postcard depicting how it would have looked.  Return to the campsite to sunbathe and enjoy a BBQ in the evening.  John helps me a lot with the computer.  The bad news is that although the lead is now mended and I can use it from the mains it still won't charge the battery. 
DELPHI, CAMPING APOLLON 2

FRIDAY 6 MARCH - Drive down to Corinth for Karen & John to visit the ruins.  No admission charge today as the site has been sprayed with pesticide and you enter at your own risk!  We all climb up to the fortress at Acrocorinth before driving back over the Corinth canal.  Find a super parking spot on the edge of Lake Vouliagmeni.  Over drinks and nibbles we decide on the evening meal which Karen, bless her, volunteers to cook. 
LAKE VOULIAGMENA - 156 MILES

SATURDAY 7 MARCH - Enjoy a cooked breakfast by the lakesie, a rather late on that we finish at 11am.  Lunch at the lakeshore fish restaurant with a huge sea bass being the highlight.  Back at the van we are quite surprised when a helicopter flies in and lands just behind us to enable the four passengers to go for a meal at the restaurant.  We have to force ourselves to pack up and head towards Athens.  Detour to the eastern end of the Corinth canal where we are atwater level.  The road bridge sinks to the bottom of the canal to allow a naval boat to pass through, quite something to see.  Heading east along the coast we come to a stop behind a queue of traffic by a level crossing.  No train shows up and eventually someone decides the signals are faulty and starts to cross.  A pedestrian stands in the middle of the track to reassure us!  We zig zag through the barriers as quickly as possible, not easy in a long motorhome.  Park by a small harbour at Pahi.  There are small parking lots, designed for 2 cars, with seats and flower beds all around. Perfect for motorhome parking.  Steve is over the moon to hear that Wolves have beaten Leeds 1-0 in the FA cup semi finals.  Although it is our last night with Karen and John and we have done very little today we are all shattered and after a quick stroll around the village we settle for a night in the van with snacks and booze. 
PAHI - 44 MILES

SUNDAY 8 MARCH - Early drive to Glyfadda and then bus into Athens.  The National Archaeological museum is huge and has quite a few very interestingitems.  Walk on to Keramikos, an ancient site and cemetery.  It's a nice spot with tortoises roaming wild.  Meander through the street market snacking on gyros and ice cream.  Stop for a nice "people watching" lunch at a street restaurant on the junction of two busy pedestrian only streets.  Catch the bus back to Glyfadda.  The town is heaving with people and the van has been wedged betweeen two cars so a soon as one moves we head out to the airport.  The fligt is at 7pm so at 6pm we say our farewells and head out of town with just over 1/2 hours daylight for us to get parked up.  Now we hit all the day trippers trying to get back into Athens and progress is slow.  In Pireus there is a bigfootball match on at the stadium and police are diverting traffic.  We end up lost in the narrow back streets and keep being given wrong direcitons - the tension mounts.  The last straw comes when we finally make it onto the motorway to find the we have only one lane in our direction as the rest are contra flow to ease the traffic returning to Athens from the west coast.  Breathe a sigh of relief when we make it back to Pahi harbour.  This journey confirms our belief that driving at night is not a good idea and sign reading in the dark impossible.  Steve's resolve to drink less, now that our visitors have gone, is instantly broken as he heads to the fridge for a beer to help him chill out - I head for the paracetamols. 
PAHI 2 - 78 MILES

MONDAY 9 MARCH - A big change in the weather as the sky is covered with clouds.  Try to make an early start getting the van back to "normal" but come unstuck in the bathroom.  To make room for our visitors we moved extra things into the wardrobe and crammed our clothes from 3 drawers into 2.  the bottome of the wardrobe has collapsed big time and also the drawers.  Steve does the best job he can but tomorrow we must spend time re distributing weight and finding some things to throw out.  Finally leave at noon and head to Ireon for our rendezvous withJo &Haan.  Our route takes us back past Lake Vougliamena, looking round the shore we can't see them, and drive on to the point.  A walk down the cliffs takes us to the remains of the partially sunken ancient site of Heraion Mecan Gavi, scant but in a nice setting.  As we climb back up we hear Haan calling out to us.  They were parked further round the lake and we missed them.  The weather has picked up so we reutrn to the lakeshore and sit out chatting and drinking.
LAKE VOULIAGMENA - 39 MILES

TUESDAY 10 MARCH - Awful weather, rain rain and more rain.  Get up late and uncurl the awning to give us a dry area outside to do a few jobs but this in itself leads to a job as the awning also needs cleaning.  After a real pottering around day we retirre to Jo & Haans van and play Scrabble then teach them how to Farkle (a dice game).  WE leave at 11pm and it is now raining heavily and with a cold wind as well.  What a change from the 8 days of hot sunny weather with Karen & John, come back all is forgiven.
LAKE VOULIAGMENA 2

WEDNESDAY 11 MARCH - The rain is dying out but it is still windy and not the best weather for being by a lake.  Stop at the large A&B supermarket at Corinth where Steve gets chatting to an English couple, Keith & Kate, who were with Jo & Haan just a few days ago at Epidauros.  End up on the motorway by mistake and have to pay 1000Drs (£4.40) toll to Dhiakofto.  After our visitors I need to get the bedding washed.  In Grece you usually drop you laundry off and they wash and dry it for you and charge by the kilo of dry weight.  The launderette is closed until tomorrow so we park up and moments later the heavens open up. 
DHIAKOFTO - 72 MILES

THURSDAY 12 MARCH - Drive into town and park opposite the launderette for when it opens at 8am.  Meanwhile I get a hair cut 1700Drs (£3.70).  It takes 3 hours for our laundry to be done and once collected we head to Patras.  Book the MedLink ferry to Brindisi boarding at 6pm for the 8pm departure. 6480Drs (£14) pp plus 16200Drs (£35) for the van and 2000Drs (£4.40) tax per person and for the van, a total of 35,160Drs (£76).   With 6 hours to spare we fill up with LPG, water and diesel then head out to the Achaia Clause winery for a tour.  The palce is deserted but we are asked to wait for 10 minutes.  Another couple appear and we recognise them as the Australians who spoke to us at the acropolis in Athens and then again at Delphi - small world.  An hour later the tour commences with a spooky guide who speaks no English but points to a sign showing us some very modern wine vats and the 100 year old vats with fancy carvings.  Their famous wine is made from the blackest grapes and the sample very sweet so we just buy a couple of bottles of their cheap white.  Rebecca & Steve join us in the van for a drink and snack until 5.30pm.  Down at the port we meet Barry & Margaret from Huddersfield, long term travellers in an American RV with the identical Ford truck as ours.  We are booked on the same crossing.  Board at 7.30pm and we are the only two motorhomes to be "camping on board".  This means we are on an open deck with a sea view and electric hook up enabling us to use our motorhome during the crossing.  We get together with Barry & Margaret for a chat and their plans are very similar to ours, the most obvious differences being the speed of travel (they have already been in Europe for 3 years) and the fact that they already write article for magazines along the same lines as I had planeed to do so that gives me another excuse not to bother!  Set sail about an hour late on the calmest seas I have ever known. 
FERRY PIREUS TO BRINDISI - 48 MILES

FRIDAY 13 MARHC - It's a great crossing and after amking use of the ships showers and clearning on board customs we disembeark at 11am Greek time, 10am local time in ITALY.  Arrage to meet up with "Rosie" (Barry & Margaret's van) at a campsite tomorrow night.  We detour to Alberobello, a smal town with hundreds of "trulli (small houses with round spiral limstone roofs).  A lady invites us in and shows u that a home consists of a number of trulli around a courtyard, each one used as a different room.  We are very impressed with the whole place. Next stop Matera anothr "must" according to the Rough Guid.  The old "sassi" (cave dwellings) and churches are now abandoned following their deline 30 years ago to malaria infested squalor.  The previous occupants are now housed in horrible concrete blocks of flats.  We drive around but don't feel comofortable enough to park anywhere.  Youth keep coming up to us offering to "park" the van or "guide" us round the sassi.  We are not at all happy with the situation and err on the side of caution and give it a miss.  This leaves us time to drive south along the underside of the boot of Italy to Camping Onda Zaaura by the beach at Coraglio Calabro (just on the hight instep!).  Fees 5,000 Itl pppn, 5,000ITL for the van inc electric giving a total of 15,000Itl night but this is reduced to 10,000 Itl night on stays of 14 nights or more.  Barry & Margaret have saved us a prime plot next to "Rosie" and on the sea front.  The 133 plot site is full bar one spot and with the price at £3.50 night for stays of over 14 nights we can understand why the Germans flock here.  We all comment on how "civilised" Italy seems after Greece, decent road sings in our normal alphabet, good roads, a recognisable language, toilets you can put paer down, plugs in the sink and shower hoses hung on the wall.  What seems odd is that after Romania, Bulgaria and Turkey we thought Greece seemed to be the more civilised place!  We are none too please to hear however that Greeece have today devalued the drachma by quite a substantial amount and we are no longer there to benefit.
CORIGLIANO CALBRO, CAMING ONDA AZZURA - 203 MILES

SATURDAY 14 MARCH - Quite a pleasant morning and I make use of the electric hook up to catch up on the computer and watch some videos.  Barry is very knowledgeable about our van so Steve tells him a few of our problems and they spend most of the day doing what they can.  We get together for an evening meal in our van at7pm and they stay until after 2am.  Good job it's Sunday tomorrow and we can have a da of rest!
CORIGILIANO CALBRO 2

SUNDAY 15 MARCH - We have decided to stay for at least another day and this gives us chance to plan our route ahead a little better.  I think by the time we leave here we should be on top of all those little jobs tat we never find time to do.  Drinks and nibbles at Barry & Margaret's in the evening - there is so much information we want to exchange that it looks like we may be staying for yet anotehr day.
CORIGILIANO CALBRO 3

MONDAY 16 MARCH - Sunny day but with wind and intermittent clouds.  Spend the day on site but we will make a determined effort to leave early tomorrow as Sicily and the south west coast of Italy are beconning.  Evening in our van playing Scrabble and Dominoes.
CORIGILIANO CALBRO 4

TUESDAY 17 MARCH - We do manage to leave, but our early start is actually 10am.  Drive down the
South western Calabrian coast and catch the ferry from Villa San Giovanni on the mainland to Mesinna on Sicily, 36,000 Itl one way.  On the way down the eastern coast of Sicily we make a side trip o the village of Savoca.  The wedding breakfast scene in he Godfather film was shot in the village's bar Vitelli (a swift reminder of the Mafia's presence on Sicily) and it is also a chance for us to visit our first catacomb, at the Cappuccini monastery.  What a spooky place - 200 to 300 year old bodies stood up in alcoves and dressed in 18c clothes.  Bits of the bodes have been wired back into place where decay has set in but most are remarkably intact and look like a cross betweeen Madame Tussauds dungeon and a visit to a Disney haunted house - except these are the real thing.  I think we were expecting bodies on shelves and certainly not to see them dressed and apparently watching you.  We are a bit too spooked to spend the night in the car park and although time is pressing on we reckon we can make Taormina.  We do get there but I did not realise from the map that the whole town is spread up a hillside with very narrow streets and virtually no parking.  Carry on above the town to the Castelmola but still can't find a parking spot.  This necessitates us winding our way back through the town, now in darkness.   We heave a sign of relief to make it back down to the coast and to find a car park in the nearby village of Mazzaro.  We are joined shortly after by two Italian motorhomes. 
MAZZARO - 212 MILES

WEDNESDAY 18 MARCH - As luck would have it there is a bus stop in the car park and we take the 8am one up into Taormina, 2,000Itl.  .  This is a lovely old town with an ancient Greek theatre, 3,000Itl,  and nothing really outstanding but just a lot of nice buildings and a nice feel to it.  Walk down and stop on the way in the delightful Duke of Cesaro gardens.  An English noblewoman Florence Trevelyan had spectacular wooden towers with balconies built here to enable her to study the birds and these are scattered around the park.  The rest of the park is full of unusual plants and relics of the World Wars, a real find and it isn't mentioned in any of the guide books.  Next port of call - the Gorges of Alcantara which are unusual in their rock formations but with very little water flowing through.  We intend to travel all the way round the base of Mount Etna before ascending it.  The first town Randazzo (also the nearest to the summit) is built of volcanic lava and came close to being ruined when following the 1981 eruption the lava flow stopped just outside the town.  Near Bronte town we stop to explore the huge local cemetery.  The tombs range from simple crosses to small chapels with space for up to t30 bodes in a type of filing cabinet system on the walls.  The big ones seem to belong to the very rich families (we guess probably Mafia money).  Wander round amazed at the statues on some of the graves.  Our route finally takes us up the southern slope of Mount Etna.  At first we see a few lava rocks then fields full of lava.  As we progress it is evident where building have been wiped out and the different colours of the rocks give an indication to the age of he relevant eruption.  The road has had to be rebuilt many times, the last eruption lasting through 1991 and 1992 was finally stalled by huge concrete blocks being dropped into the fissures.  Eruption is usually every 4 - 12 years and we can see rocks being spat out of the top right now.  Our parking spot is at the end of the regular road at 1,923 metres.  As the sun sets we see the craters change from red to orange, green and hen black like slag heaps as the last of the sun dies.  Steve has done a recce on the restaurant and brings in pizza for me and a cheese pie for him to go with the jacket potatoes and ratatouille left over from last night.  Steve gets the short straw as his pie turns out to be a sweet and not a savory one.  Reckon he is glad he didn't put HP sauce on it.  The mist begins to descend and the temperature drops rapidly so we settle for a nice hot bath and an early night.
MOUNT ETNA - 70 MILES

THURSDAY 19 MARCH - I wake up freezing cold at 5am.  The thermostat needle, which goes down to 50F, can't be seen and the double glazed windows are frozen on the inside.  Fortunately the blown air heats the van up quickly and I return to bed with a fresh hot water bottle. (I'm glad the 3am tour to see the sunrise from the top isn't an option).  Our tour, 62,000Itl, leaves at 9.30am and takes us up in a special vehicle to 3,000 metres (the summit being at 3,323 metres).  Here we disembark and wrapped up well against the cold and with glasses to protect against the dust we walk towards the crater.  It is dangerous o climb too high but we get high enough to stand by some minor emissions of hot steam and to get a good view of the two major craters that are grumbling.  One of them can be seen to throw up rocks the size of footballs every few minutes.  Quite a strange experience to be stood on a partially snow covered lava field on the mountainside watching a volcano puffing away.  The view is splendid and we can just make out Cantania about 35km away, devastated when the 1669 lava flow flooded through the town and out into the harbour.  Down at 2.054 metres we take the gondola cable car back to the car park.  Descent towards Catania and drive along the coast to a campsite at Brucoli enabling us to make the most of the afternoon sunshine.
BRUCOLI, BAIA DEL SILENCIO - 48 MILES

Friday 20 March 1998  Drive South to Syracuse where we park near the Archaeological site.  A little different as there are three parts, an natural stone cut amphitheatre (the largest in Italy) a Necropolis with a waterfall and the area of an old quarry with an unusual cave.  The cave is called the ear of  Dionysius, an S shaped cavern where state prisoners were kept and because of the unusual acoustics Dionysius could hear from outside everything they were plotting.  A half  hour walk takes us to the old town of Ortygia via a bakery selling fresh pies and with a vino thrown in.  Archemedes lived here at one time. The main sites of interest are a spectacular fountain of Diana, The baroque cathedral (closed) and the Fountain of Artemis said to contain water from the Greek Peleponnese. It seems strange seeing all the Police driving round in Panda cars (Fiat  Pandas!). Back in the new town we visit some more catacombs but these are as we expected, long corridors with body storage areas hewn out of rocks and no corpses.  There is a new church in town dedicated to the weeping Madonna.  The ultra modern building is shaped like a teardrop following an incident in 1953 when a local family found their Madonna plaque shedding tears which it did for 5 days.  It became a place of pilgrimage and scientists never came up with an explanation. Drive out to Belvedere to see the ancient castle and park up by the stadium for the night.
BELVEDERE - 33 MILES

Saturday 21 March  A  short drive further South to Avola for a day relaxing and sunbathing on the beach followed rather surprisingly by some rain in the evening.
AVOLA - 22 MILES

Sunday 22 March  First stop Noto where there is a street full of Baroque buildings from the 1700's that are now crumbling due to the pollution.  We spot some kind of a celebrity in the street with lots of discreet bodyguards hanging around but never manage to find out who he is, Steve reckons he is one of the Mafia.   We end up just West of Gela on the Southern Sicilian coast and park up at the back of some sand dunes ever hopeful of sunbathing weather tomorrow.  We are travelling much faster than we would like but the weather is now pushing us along.
W of GELA - 112 MILES

Monday 23 March  We potter around until noon, Steve the eternal optimist waiting for the clouds to blow away.  First stop North is a small village called Caltagirone and famous for ceramics.  There are 142 steps up to the Scala and the front of each row is decorated with a different design tile.  The walls by the bridge and park are also very attractively tiled. Pushing on North West we reach Piazza Armerina and at last find something to amaze us.  The Villa Imperiale 4c BC was covered by a landslide and only found in the 50's.  Someone has ingeniously decided to preserve the floor mosaics by building a perspex dome over the area  in the size and shape of the original building.  This really gives you a sense of the layout and vastness of it all.  We have never before seen such beautiful floor mosaics, most of them complete and some huge ones telling stories e.g. the 60 metre long hunting scene.  We are so impressed we do the tour circuit twice and take far too many photos and videos.  Back at the car park it is starting to get dark & we spot two people looking intently at our van.  They turn out to be Germans Klaus & Anna also in a camper and debating whether to stay the night.  We agree that together we are much safer.  Shortly after dusk we are joined by two French motorhomes.  Klaus & Anna come in for a drink & chat and I am presented with a gift of one of his pottery vases.  He is a potter and she is an artist and they insist that when we pass through Germany we must visit and stay in their house and take a bath etc - no she's not inferring we smell but understands that wallowing in a bath is one of the things you miss in long term travel.
PIAZZA ARMERINA - 52 MILES

Tuesday 24 March  It's cold and raining heavily so we decide we might as well press on with the sites in the hope that we can catch up on sunbathing later.  The novelty of just crashing out on a beach still hasn't worn off and we are getting a bit depressed with the recent bad weather.  Drive S.W. to Agrigento to walk through the Valley of the Temples.  It is pouring down when we arrive and we need water before we park up.  Steve insists on keeping the tank very low when we are travelling up and down hills, so much so that we had to use bottled water last night.  I am very much against this idea as despite the slightly lower m.p.g. I like to be able to shower etc whenever I want.  We drive around the town and Steve gets soaked stopping at garages and trying to find water.  At first we buy Diesel at each one but as the tank fills we have to just ask for water.  The annoying thing is that they tell you they have it and then either change their minds and say it is undrinkable, don't have the right hose connection, don't have enough or at the last one run out when we have only just 1/3 tank full.  Tempers start to fray and we park up and sit in silence reading.  The rain stops and the weather brightens up and so do our moods.  Our walk starts at  the 5c BC Temple of Juno with 25 columns and at the Eastern and highest point of the valley  Next the magnificent Concorde with all 34 columns standing then  Hercules the oldest and with only 8 columns.  Over the road to Zeus the largest temple ever built but not completed and with a fallen support statue still to be seen, finally Castor & Pollux  and a sanctuary with many alters and mini temples.  An extraordinary setting and unusual in the amount of temples so close together.  We stay on the car park near the site overnight and the weather deteriorates to thunder and lightening and we don't have enough water to wallow in the mini bath tub but at least we are nice and warm and cosy.
AGRIGENTO - 80 MILES

Wednesday 25 March  Much brighter morning and once again we dither over whether to head for  the coast or up through the country to Palermo.  Just setting out late morning and we see an English motorhome coming our way.  We do an about turn and stop for a chat and coffee.  Ian and Irene are travelling for a couple of months and at the end of last week were on a site with Barry & Margaret whom we left in Corigliano Calabrio. Exchange information and leave early afternoon for Palermo.  Notorious for being dangerous we have been warned repeatedly not to go near the town centre in the van and to be extremely cautious with our bags and cameras when we go in o n the bus.  We manage to get around the rings road despite the horrendous traffic and head out to Monreale  The  cathedral is closed until 3.30pm so we stop in a bar and I enjoy and enormous house special pizza with loads of ham, mushrooms, cheese, sausage, spinach and tomatoes, Steve has the spinach cannelloni and for once regrets his choice as he decides mine is much better even though he doesn't normally like pizza.  The church interior is magnificent with gold mosaics covering all the walls and showing the most popular bible stories.  Noah's ark is particularly good.  The church is dark when you enter and you have to pay 1000 lire to light an area for 60 seconds.  We rush around after the tour groups and get to see all the areas gratis and manage to earwig on some English commentary.  Up on the roof we get a splendid view of the cloisters and should have a good view of Palermo but not when it is misty, raining and the wind is freezing.  Once again we negotiate our way around Palermo to a campsite just NW of the city at Sferracavallo.  The site is by the sea and as we pull up we notice how much the wind has got up and  how the waves are crashing in and onto the road.  Try to find a spot as sheltered as possible but still find the night is the most windy we have ever encountered.
SFERRACAVALLO nr PALERMO - 105 MILES

Thursday 26 March   We had planned to go into Palermo today to see the sights but wake up feeling tired and although it is fine it is still windy.  I edit the video and write up my diaries.  We may go into Palermo later today and also tomorrow morning.  The bus fare is  cheap at £1,500 (£ is also the sign for lire) 50p and that gives us 1 hour of travel on public transport.  In Italy there are no free days to museums but admission is almost always only £4,000  (£1.40) and so it's no problem.  I'm sure the prices in Rome will be somewhat higher.  Since arriving here last week the lire has gone up from £2,900 to £3,000 to the pound.  We have been very lucky with the exchange rates since leaving England - in fact a glance at my old diary tells me we were in Portugal this time last year in the Solifer.  England is the only country we have been in where Diesel is not substantially cheaper than ordinary petrol, we are paying around 50p a litre here.  After a nice hot shower we decided to head into town and catch the 11.30 bus.  After one change we arrive at Piazza Verdi, Steve with the wallet and camera stashed in his inside coat pockets and me with the video hung around my neck under my coat and looking strangely fat or pregnant. Our walking tour takes us to Quattro Canti (the four corners) the busiest traffic square in town reflected in the fancy but blackened curved columns of statues and fountains on each corner.  Piazza Bellini has a beautiful fountain with loads of statues and different animal heads.  The church of San Cataldo has pretty domes outside and is bare inside, La Martorana is plain outside and absolutely fantastic inside - painted ceilings, fancy carvings, mosaics and a diamond studded mosaic panel picture.  Moving on along Corso Vittorio Emanuelle the effects of pollution on the old building is sadly evident but our first glimpse of Palermo cathedral is rewarding as it has been sandblasted.  Our timing is bad again and both the Cattedrale and Palazzo dei Normanni are closed until 3.00. We are finding this Italian custom of afternoon closures very frustrating but like yesterday I'm sure the man in the cafe approves.  Steve tries and enjoys a local fast food delicacy,  sesame seed bun with slices of warm beef, liver and a dollop of grated cheese.  The book says "for real attention-grabbing stuff " take a short bus journey  to the catacombs at the Convent of Cappuccini.  A combination of the  types we have previously seen - a maze of underground passages but with around 8000 dressed corpses  Sorted into areas by sex and status they are suspended in individual niches with vile contorted grinning faces and in various states of decomposure.  A two year old girl who died in 1920 has skin and hair following a series of embalming injections.  The American Viceroy is prominently displayed alongside a man of unusual body proportions.  Like the house of horrors and quite haunting.  Back at the palace we visit the Cappella Palatine - private chapel of Roger 2nd (a miniature version of Monreale), nip into the cathedral and then walk through the narrow alleyways of  the oldest district Capo.  The streets are full of market stalls gathered by trade.  We buy a nice piece of steak from a butcher and a few other bits and pieces.  Nip into Sant' Agostino church as a service is in progress.  There are many people bobbing in and out, bringing an odd flower to deposit in front of a picture and seemingly just  wandering around.  We are surprised at how many young people there are.  Back on the bus for a nice meal of the steak cooked in a red wine sauce, chips and peas. (I will rephrase that, bus back to campsite and meal in our motorhome).  Fester the rest of the evening watching videos which leaves us with a problem.  The colour on the TV has been none too good and it was suggested we ran it from 12volts as the electricity would constantly recharge the battery.  This has not proved the case and we now have a flat leisure battery that we can't seem to charge properly.  It has been playing up for some time but this is the last straw and I can just foresee the fun trying to buy a special deep cycle battery on the strength of our Italian.
SFERRACAVALLO 2

Friday 27 March    A short drive along the Northern Sicilian coast takes us to Cefalu where we park at the harbour.  Make a note of the time and wait until 3.00pm before setting out to view the cathedral and other sights.  Nice beach with a lot of windsurfers but too cold for us.  Franz & Margret motorhomers from Germany join us on the car park and we combine a meal as the restaurant nearby isn't open.  They provide salad and drinks and I make Chilli Pasta to the recipe Karen cooked for us.
CEFALU - 54 MILES

Saturday 28 March  Just 29 miles further along the coast we feel the urge to stop and enjoy the greatly improved weather.  Park by the sea and sit and sunbathe at Marina Di Coroni.
MARINA DI CORONI - 29 MILES

Sunday 29 March    Fortunately we were warned a few days ago by Irene and Ian that the clocks move forward.  This is very good for us as we now have daylight until about 7.30pm but it didn't help with us getting up this morning! Some motorway driving to avoid the high mountains and a couple of hours later we are at Milazzo.  We have come to check out the ferries to the volcanic chain of the Aeolian Islands but all the agents are closed.  Decide to drive out to the Cape but get stuck in a huge traffic jam waiting for a procession to walk through town.  Brief visit to enjoy the view from the Cape and then to a nice quiet parking spot by the football stadium at the back of the beach.  We have the place to ourselves to spread out and sunbathe until cars start to appear.  By 4.00pm there are over 100 cars parked by us and loads more around the stadium as people arrive to watch the football match.  At one point the ball comes over to the beach and when Steve returns it he is dragged in to watch the match.  Think he is the only spectator in beachwear but at least he has shorts and not trunks on.
MILAZZO - 68 MILES

Monday 30 March  By 11.00pm we have parked the van in a secure compound and are aboard a ferry to Stromboli , very reasonable at £16,500 (less than £6) each. It takes twice as long as the hydrofoil but costs half the price.  An hour late in leaving 12.00pm  Steve suggests that no one told them the clocks went forward yesterday.  We arrive complete with rucksacks at Stromboli dock around 3.00pm and take a walk following our check in at Pensione Stella.   The beaches are very strange being of black volcanic sand and with coves between lava flow rocks that have petrified on hitting the sea.  We want to walk to the crater but it is not allowed without a guide and out of season he wants £300,000 (£100+) to take us so opt for a hike alone to the safe halfway point.  Last year two people died  attempting the climb alone - a Spaniard fell into the crater and another tourist down a ravine.  Return to our room to prepare for our hike and leave at 6.00pm.  An hour later we arrive at the combined observation point and restaurant and enjoy the view of the smoke coming out of the crater.  As darkness descends the smoke becomes a red glow and we are lucky enough to see some spectacular eruptions.  Flames shoot out 30 metres high and the rocks can be seen glowing as they roll down the mountainside.  The big bursts come complete with a very  loud booming noise.  The restaurant owner says it is particularly spectacular tonight.  Pizza, Spaghetti and a couple of jugs of wine complete the experience.  We spot torches coming down the mountain and shortly after are joined by Barry & Jill (from Wolverhampton!) with 2 year old Matthew in a back pack.  They climbed to the top in the afternoon but realised it would be too dangerous to climb down in the dark and agree that we are in the best viewing spot. Once Steve and Barry are convinced they have caught a good explosion on camera we descend back to the village together.  Barry tells us that the ferries had to be cancelled last week due to the bad weather and people were stranded on Stromboli for a week.  He is a volcano fanatic and says Stromboli is particularly active now because of the recent earthquakes and also tells us we must climb up to and above the volcano on Vulcano Island where we are going tomorrow.
STROMBOLI - 2 MILES

Tuesday 31 March    I have a lousy nights sleep due to block sinuses and am only too glad to get up at 6.30 to catch the 7.15 hydrofoil (£25,000) to Vulcano.  First stop a little further round Stromboli is for the people of Ginostra.  It is the smallest port in the world and the passengers have to be ferried to us on a small boat and climb aboard out at sea.  We call at Panarea next and whilst waiting for people boarding spot a school of dolphins behind a fishing boat.  There seem to be about half a dozen of them jumping in and out of the water but unfortunately they don't follow us.  Arrive on Vulcano just before 9.00am and immediately smell the sulphur in the air.  The "Gran Crater" at 1290 feet has numerous fumeroles pumping out sulphuric gases and  that is where we are heading.  Dump our bags at the ferry office and follow the crater signs.  The first part of the climb is through green vegetation followed by a band of black volcanic dust.  The third tier is red solidified clay and we walk along the fissures.  Boulders of lava are scattered around although there has been no major eruption since 1890.  Above the clay we realise there is another peak beyond which the smoke is rising.  An hour after the start we are being gassed in the extreme and have to walk through the smoke to complete a circuit of the rim.  An absolutely fantastic site but smelling worse than one of David Spooner's ..... we walk as quickly as is possible when ploughing uphill through lava sand.  The fumeroles are really warm and the earth nearby is stained bright yellow.  Looking down into the crater you can see lots of bands of different coloured rock and just a flat area at the bottom with the fumeroles all on one side.  Spectacular views over the rest of Vulcano and the other nearby islands.  A much quicker walk down as we skip part of the path and half walk and half skate down a sandy fissure.  Along the coast at Porto di Levante we cut through a curiously shaped rock to the beach.  The rock is a remnant of an old volcano and riddled with caves for the extraction of alum but the colours are once again magnificent.  Signs warn us we are entering a radioactive area.  We arrive at the sulphurous mud baths adjacent to the black sandy beach with hot springs bubbling up in the sea.  First a dip in the sea for the natural Jacuzzi and then into the hot mud bath.  A thick covering of mud makes us look ridiculous but we are assured that if we leave it to dry before washing it off we will feel the benefit.  (No further details given as to the benefit of slopping radioactive mud on you but we are game for anything.)  We spend about 4 hours between mudbathing, Jacuzzi bathing and sunbathing before making a final attempt to clean up before dressing.  Easier said than done as no matter how much we try to get rid of the mud in the sea it reappears as it dries and we still smell of sulphur.  We sit on the boat hoping people realise where we have been and don't think we have both got bad cases of wind.   Arrive back in Milazzo 90 minutes later just before 6.00pm.  We are allowed to stay overnight on the car park and have to make full use of  the shower which has been thoughtfully provided.  A day of rest is planned for tomorrow as we are both cream crackered
MILAZZO

SUNDAY 1 FEBRUARY 1998 – We aim for any early start and when Steve opens the van door at 7.30am he sees Chris and Barrie in their car waiting to see us off.  They have been there since 7am and Barrie has hung a big “Baggies” flag on the bikes behind the van to remind Steve that West Brom beat Wolves 1-0 yesterday.  A quick drive through Malia so Claire & Daz can see where the island pulses in summer.  Next a blitz on the ancient sites of Knossos, the archaeological museum, Gortys (where we bump into Claire & Malcolm again) and finally Festos.  We park up for the night and are joined by Claire & Malcolm.  We all gather in their motorhome for a combined meal.  Try to use out microwave to cook some food but find we have a problem with the generator.  Malcolm sorts it out temporarily with a by pass from the fuse.  Our feast begins with nibbles and sherry.  Main course is roast chicken, roast potatoes, cauliflower cheese, broccoli, carrots, peas, sweetcorn and gravy.  Desserts of Christmas pudding (with drambuie) and custard rounded off with cheese and biscuits.  The diet begins tomorrow!  

FESTOS – 94 MILES

 

MONDAY 2 FEBRUARY – Daz & Claire use our mountain bikes to cycle from Festos to Matala with us following as support vehicle (forgot to mention that they cycled from Vai to Palekastro the other day but this is twice as far).  We stop ahead of them at the top of a hill and I lean out of the window with a sponge and drink.  Claire is too shattered to be amused but they carry on and complete the journey.  After a few moments recovery they head off to climb up the rocks to the Matala cave tombs.  On to Kok Pirgos and The Red Castle fish restaurant for lunch where Steve & Daz share a fish platter with 15 assorted ones complete with heads and tails.  Last stop Ag Galini where the 3 Dutch vans are still parked up.  Nice warm afternoon for wandering around.  After dropping the laundry off we make an early evening visit to the Café Neo where we snack on baked potatoes, tomatoes, boiled eggs, olives and fish.

AG GALINI – 29 MILES

 

TUESDAY 3 FEBRUARY – Lovely hot day so we make an early start and after brief stops at Spilli and the Armenian cemetery we arrive at Lake Kournas at 11am.  Serious sunbathing weather but Claire & Daz do drag themselves away for long enough to take a pedalo out on the lake to see the turtles.  We leave after 4pm when the sun starts to drop behind the mountains.  Into Chania to book onto the ferry for tomorrow night.  We upgrade from our 2 aircraft style seats to an ensuite cabin for 4.  Claire & Daz manage a bit of shopping and sightseeing whilst we are dealing with this.  Meet American Steve at the roadhouse where we round off the day with a nice steak dinner.

ONIOUFRIOS BEACH – 93 MILES

 

WEDNESDAY 4 FEBRUARY – Another nice morning so we drop more laundry off in Chania and drive out to our usual peaceful beach spot – this time invaded by 4 coach loads of school kids on an outing to the park.  Claire & Daz sunbathe on the beach and Steve has a swim before starting the BBQ lunch.  We board the ferry at around 6.30pm but have to complain as the air conditioner isn’t working in the cabin and it is very hot.  We get upgraded to a distinguished class cabin but the only thing up about it is the 3 flights of stairs.  The air conditioner again doesn’t work but this time the purser assures me it will once we set sail.  The crossing isn’t good and the rooms stays hot most of the night.  At least when we came over as deck class we could move around the ship to find a cooler spot – will know for next time. 

FERRY TO ATHENS – 26 MILES

 

THURSDAY 5 FEBRUARY – The alarm goes off at 5am and although we are convinced we haven’t slept it does wake us all up.  Good job too as when we emerge from the cabin at 5.30am we are docked and the majority of passengers have already left (crazy Greeks, they spend half the night keeping us awake with tannoy announcements but don’t make one in the morning to get you up!).  Luckily we were not blocking anyone on the car deck.  Drive out of the docks onto the GREEK MAINLAND and south to Glyfadda for a few hours sleep.  Just in the throws of deciding when and how to “hit” Athens when the heavens open up.  The rain finally stops and we get a taxi straight to the acropolis (taxi very reasonable at £3.50 for 11 miles).  The site is fantastic.  Perched on a hill with incredible 360-degree views over Athens and into the distance.  The sun has come out and it is getting quite warm.  Spend time looking at the various temples before hitting a problem with Daniel’s dinner.  We need to find a place with a microwave to warm his frozen meal but can’t find one anywhere.  Sitting it in boiling water doesn’t work and he is none too thrilled at yoghurt along.  We get a taxi back to the motorhome (can’t figure out why the meter shows £4.50 as we drove faster on exactly the same route back) by which time Daniel is asleep.  Drive further onto Voula Beach.  It is now hot and sunny and we stop for lunch.  A final drive around the coast brings us to Varkiza, a small town with beach, good parking and shops etc.  I cook a meal for us which holds a couple of surprises – the battered onion rings turn out to be calamari fritters and the pistachio dessert is tasteless so we can only imagine it is pistachio coloured!

VARKISA – 28 MILES

 

FRIDAY 6 FEBRUARY – Our last day together so we begin with a lie in followed by a traditional English cooked breakfast.  Claire & Daz pack whilst we take a stroll with Daniel.  We are really going to miss him; he is such a pleasant little fellow.  Head to the airport before it gets dark and I prepare our “last supper” whilst Steve and Claire check out departure details.  Preparations begin in earnest after dinner and I enjoy bathing Daniel for the last time.  And so to bed with the alarm set for 3am. 

ATHENS, GLYFADDA AIRPORT –

 

SATURDAY 7 FEBRUARY – No problem checking in and with luck they have a row of 3 seats so that they can spread out with Daniel.  We say our Goodbyes and I just manage not to cry until they are out of sight (what a softie hey?).  We try to move the van to a quieter spot away from the airport but get a bit lost and by the noise I think we have ended up parked right at the end of the runway.  Feel a bit like the lads in “Wayne’s World” lying back to watch the planes fly overhead.  Give up on sleep around 9am and move on to fill up with water and for me to do a hand wash and make the most of the warm breezy day.  Park up by Glyfadda marina and in the evening visit the cinema to see “The full monty” – what a laugh.  I can’t remember when I last laughed aloud so much at a film.  A lot obviously gets lost in the translation to Greek subtitles as at times there seems to be only us and another couple behind us laughing.  A classic example is at the funeral when two of the lads remark on two of their other friends turning out to be gay and finish the conversation with “well there’s nowt as queer as folk!” 

GLYFADDA MARINA – 24 MILES

 

SUNDAY 8 FEBRUARY – Back on tour and we head out to the Peleponesse.  Our approach takes us over the Corinth canal.  Opened in 1893 it cut 6 hours sailing time around the Peleponesse peninsula.  Today it is little used, as the super tankers are too big to go through.  We are lucky and see a ship being pulled through by a tug but unlike he one Michael Palin was on with only 6” to spare this one is a baby.  Still a spectacular sight to see and obviously on the main tour itinerary as on both sides of the bridge the large car parks are full and shops, bars and restaurants take advantage.  Ancient Corinth the roman city is huge and impressive.  There’s an unusual fountain area where a natural spring still fills the roman water cistern and is still used today.  A quick visit to Nemaea with the stadium for the biennial games (the winner got crowned with a ring of wild celery).  Last ancient site of the day (yes it’s Sunday sites are us day) Mycenae, a citadel surrounded by massive graves.  These tombs are entered via a long corridor then through a chamber doorway into a huge domed underground central area.  It is though the tombs here held royalty and the treasures found are the richest archaeological finds to date but you have to go to the museum to see them.  There is a secret water cistern in the citadel with dark twisty underground passageways leading to a sudden 70-foot drop into the well.  We have learnt from past mistakes and pass on this one.  A little further south Nafplio is our stop for the night.  A pretty town and once the capital of Greece.  The old quarter is a maze of Venetian houses overlooked by the citadel on one hill and the fort on another 857 steps up from town).  You can wander round for ages stumbling on quaint houses, backyards full of junk, side alley steps covered with flower tubs, catholic churches, mosques and Turkish fountain – enchanting. 

NAFPLIO – 140 MILES

 

MONDAY 9 FEBRUARY – We climb to the top of the Palamidhi fort and I count over 900 steps to the entrance plus loads more inside the 8 bastions, which make up the compound.  It is named after Palmedes who invented dice, lighthouses and measuring scales.  The views are superb but there is a very cold wind so we are glad to leave.  We have spotted a better parking place at the bottom of the fort so move it then drop all the visitor bedding off at the laundry.  I spend all afternoon cleaning in the van.  Steve seems to be going down with a cold so sits in the corner and reads but still manages to dangle his legs around to trip me up.  Go out for an evening meal to a place on the harbour front where a man tried to entice us in last night by offering out of season prices.  Negotiate the mousakka and chips from 1300Drs (£2.85) to 1000Drs (£2.20) and beer from 450Drs (99p) to 300Drs (66p) or to put it another way we get a free beer with the meal.  The funny thing is that he is offering different deals to everyone but fortunately he writes your price on the paper tablecloth.  Steve’s cold is really developing and I am starting with one as well.

NAFPLIO 2 – 1 MILE

 

TUESDAY 10 FEBRUARY – I get up at 3.30am.  Steve definitely has flue, the snoring, snorting and throat clearing are dead giveaways.  I can feel myself getting bunged up so I am sitting writing yesterdays diary whilst sipping a Lemsip.  It is the first time since we left Cappadocia early November that we have had a lot of cold nights.  We are leaving the heating on low and I think we are getting the same type of cold we used to get in England when we first put the heating on in the autumn.  Back to bed.  I get up at 8.30 and we dose ourselves up before driving north first to Paliaepidauros then to the site of Epidauros.  The huge amphitheatre is impressive but the setting is not as nice as others we have seen.  The whole area is the Sanctuary of Asklepios, a kind of 4c BC health farm in a beautiful pine tree valley.  There are remains of baths, gymnasiums, hostels, stadium etc but all in the throws of major reconstruction.  Apparently anyone cured of an illness here used to leave behind a clay model of that part of the body (I wonder what he phallus was cured of?  Onwards for a tour of the coast and to Ermioni with a detour to check out the Lena Mary naturist hotel (now under development as a textile hotel).  Up the coast to Galatas opposite the island of Poros.  Didn’t realise that Poros was only 350m from the mainland or that it is actually two islands, the small one comprising solely of Poros town.  Park up and at 4.30pm set out to stroll around Galatas town.  We are trying to read a poster on the door of a Café Neo when a man comes out and hauls us in.  He insists on buying us an ouzo, then another and yet another.  He also keep ordering food for us, the last dish being an omelette with tomatoes and salami.  His name is Yannis and he works hard through the day as a labourer then comes to the bar with his workmates to drink until 7.00pm, the time his wife thinks he finishes work!  One of the men speaks English and when we try to buy them a round of drinks he says that in Greece when you are bought the first drink you cannot reciprocate at all that night so we must enjoy the hospitality.  Two of the workers nearly come to blows over who is to buy us the next drink.  Yannis gives us his phone number and offers us free accommodation at his pension (wonder how he would explain to his wife how he met us).  Eventually they begin to disperse and stagger drunkenly to their cars.  Back at the van we get a knock on the door from an old man who just says, “Welcome in my country”.  What a strange but friendly place.  Later on we take the ferry to Poros (bargain at 20p) but having walked along the seafront we conclude it is only a summer resort as almost everywhere is closed.  Back at Galatas we stop at a different Café Neo nearer to the car park.  “Die hard with a vengeance” is on the TV in English with Greek subtitles.  The old man who came to the van to welcomes us appears in the bar and starts to great us again.  One of the other customers explains that he is a bit of a nutter. 

GALATAS – 107 MILES

 

WEDNESDAY 11 FEBRUARY – Steve is struggling with his cold (he didn’t seem too bad last night in the bar though).  I nip to the kiosk for cough sweets whilst he festers in bed.  The sun is shinning and not a cloud in sight and this entices Steve to get up.  A short drive west takes us to Troezen.  We park in the lemon groves and walk past hundreds of lemon trees and through fields full of carnations to get to the ruins.  Not much of a site but a super view of both the northern and southern argolid coast.  Back to the van to pack a picnic for our hike up the gorge to “Devils Bridge”.  The path is difficult to find and after much rock clambering, stream hopping and scrambling up and down the gorge sides we give up when we still haven’t found it after ½ hour.  Luckily we do find a nice pool and sit in the sun before taking a skinny dip, drying out in the sun then eating our picnic, probably better than walking to the bridge anyway.  Back at the starting point we decide to explore downstream and this is where we find the bridge!   Someone as secured a rope between two trees and you have to kind of abseil sideways hanging above the stream to get to the viewing point.  It is like a fairy grotto with the rock bridge above strewn with greenery, caves, rock pools and waterfalls that look like waterslide – and only a 10 minute downstream and not 30 minutes up stream as stated in the book!  Amble back to the van tired but having really enjoyed the walk in the sun.  South to Tolo for the night.  We spot some oil under the front of the van and this causes concern.  John the mechanic on Crete said he thought one of the front shock absorbers had gone but it would be better to wait and get it fixed in Italy.  We have around 1000 miles to go before we even get to the ferry so will try and find a Ford garage tomorrow.

TOLO – 56 MILES

 

THURSDAY 12 FEBRUARY – Call at the Ford garage in Nafplio and they can’t do anything but assure us it is no problem and we will be able to get it repaired or new parts in Tripoli or Athens (we believed we would need to replace both shock absorbers with new ones).  I rather get the impression that if a particular place can’t help you they try to reassure you that it is no problem regardless.  Drive on then stop to phone Ford Tripoli rather than make the 150km detour.  Exactly the same response but they say that Nafplio or Athens will definitely be able to help!   Give up and drive south down he Arcadian coast with fine views over the small islands.  A nice hot day with clear deep blue skies so we stop at Paralia Astrols and pitch on a grass verge behind the pebble beach just south of the village.  We are attempting to follow a 7-day Peloponnese tour from a book and today should be day 2with us driving 118 miles to Monemvasia.  We have already taken 5 days and driven just 24 miles of it!  Enjoy an afternoon sunbathing and watch the sea turn pink from the reflection of the sky as the sun goes down.  Just beautiful.  Early evening walk around the village.

Paralia Astros – 24 miles

 

FRIDAY 13 FEBRUARY – Steve is still struggling but it’s a nice day so he manages to drag himself out to sunbathe.  It is hot all day so we stay out until 5pm then pack up and make the short journey south to Paralia Tirou where we make our usual stroll around the town. 

PARALIA TIROU – 22 MILES

 

SATURDAY 14 FEBRUARY – Leave at 9am and drive south to Leinido, a pretty medieval village beneath high red cliffs.  The streets are the narrowest we’ve been on but knowing that buses use this route we are sure to be OK.  There are high walls on both sides and backing out would be even more difficult than keeping going.  Fold the wing mirrors in and I stand in front of the van guiding Steve as we somehow squeeze round 90 degree corners and eventually get through, often with barely an inch to spare.  We then find out that the buses do use this route but stop at the edge of the village whilst the passengers walk and pick up another one on the other side of town!  Beyond the village the road winds up into the mountains.  A herd of goats dawdle by the side of the road and as we near them one starts to stray in front of us.  Steve hits the horn but the stupid things charges into us.  Fortunately the goat is only stunned and no damage has been done to the van.  The road climbs up to Kosmas village at over 1000m where we see snow amongst the many huge fir trees, a bit like a mini Canada but with much narrower roads. On through Sparta and to camping Mystra, 2500Drs (£5.50), our first stay on a campsite since 5^th November.  Arrive at noon and set up stall to enjoy the sun.  There site is full of orange trees and the owners says to help ourselves.  He only gets 30Drs kilo (3p a pound) so it’s not worth him picking them.  The juice of four goes down nicely with a dash of vodka.  We meet fellow traveller Jans from Germany.  He tells us his life story over vodka and orange, a paediatric doctor who as worked for UNICEF and other charities worldwide but mainly in Bolivia and Vietnam.  His wife and daughter were killed in Romania 2 years ago and he is trying to get back to Bolivia hasn’t got the right paperwork and not enough money.  In the evening he comes and sits by us in the restaurant and we end up buying him a meal (so much for our romantic Valentines meal for two!).  We leave early, as Steve cannot stand the sight of an old man skinning sparrows on t next table, the Greeks eat 3 or 4 each as a meal - gross.

SPARTA – CAMPING MYSTRA – 67 MILES

 

SUNDAY 15 FEBRUARY – The ancient site of Mystras is huge and covers the whole side of a hill.  A castle at the top, numerous churches and monasteries in the upper town and ruined houses on the lower level.  We start at the bottom and I reach the upper town but leave Steve to go on alone to the castle.  He is much better now but I think he has passed the flu on to me.  Monemvassia is our next stop.  Stuck on an island rather like Gibraltar, it is similar to Mystras but still inhabited.  The tiny cobbled streets are lined with shops and tavernas and it’s a lovely place.  End up at Gythion and park on the “mole”.  We have a lovely meal in the taverna adjoining the stadium.  The old man speaks no English but takes us into the kitchen and pulls trays out of the oven for us to see.  Steve chooses lamb with a type of pasta and I have ½ chicken with herby potatoes.  Very authentic, nice and inexpensive.

GYTHION – 111 MILES

 

MONDAY 16 FEBRUARY – Explore around the Mani peninsula, famous for it’s tower houses.  We stop for a couple of hours to sunbathe in a secluded pebbly cover near Vathia.  Can’t believe how good the weather is for February.  We complete the circuit late afternoon and head up the coast towards Kalamata.  The paces we had earmarked for overnight stops are no good, all ports with narrow streets.  End up driving until dusk to the beach just north of Kardamilli.

KARDHAMILI – 103 MILES

 

TUESDAY 17 FEBRUARY – Kalamata is t largest town in the area.  The epicentre of the 1986 earthquake it has since seen 50% of the population leave.  Drive to the LPG station and check out the Ford garages.  LPG is no longer available and we are told that the only place on the Peloponnese where they have it is Patra, about 1 week away at the speed we travel.  We turn the fridge off and hope we have enough gas to last for cooking and heating.  The Ford garage say “no problem” for us to wait and easy to get fixed up in Athens.  Our drive down the coast takes us to Koroni but we have to turn back.  A lorry replacing all the telegraph poles blocks the narrow street into town.  Drive out of town and find Amnos campsite nr Finikoundas with a German motorhome on it.  They have been here since December and no one has come for any money.  Enjoy a free nights parking on a grassy site scattered with pampas grass, palms and pretty flowers and adjoining a nice beach.  

FINIKOUNDAS, CAMPSITE AMNOS – 77 MILES

 

WEDNESDAY 18 FEBRUARY – Typical, we’re at a lovely spot by a beach and it rains.  North to Pilos where we bump into an Australian lady at the bakers.  Drive to the campsite where Elayne is staying with her husband Chris and sons Adam (15) and Tristan (13).  In Australia you can take your children out of school and educate them using the outback correspondence course.  The family left Melbourne in November 1996 flew to USA and bough a truck and tents to tour there and in Mexico.  Next they visited the UK and bought a camper van converted from a PO delivery van to drive across Europe.  Now they are changing to 3 motorbikes to go down to Egypt and possibly Ethiopia.  The campsite owner wants to charge us nearly £10 to stay overnight but Chris knows a good free camping spot nearby.  On his bike he guides us to a cove on the bay of Navarino between a freshwater lagoon and the sea.  We’re also near Nesters cave and the bay of Voidhokilia.  Walk through the bugs at the side of the lake and continue on to beautiful Voidhokilia beach known by the locals as Omega bay because of its shape.  The Aussies come down to join us for an evening meal complete with a travel brain storming session before we get too drunk to retain any more information.

NAVARINO BAY – 21 MILES

 

THURSDAY 19 FEBRUARY – The “Clash’s” join us at 10am for a hike up the hills to explore Nesters Cave then higher up to Paleao Kastro and the ruined fortress at the top.  Superb views of Navarino Bay, the lagoon and omega beach.  We clamber down and head to the beach to swim and sunbathe as it is now hot and he skies are deep blue and free of clouds.  This is one of the nicest beaches we have found in Greece with soft sand and dunes.  The family leave before us as they have a lot of work to do condensing the contents of a campervan onto 3 motorbikes.  They plan to be back in Australia this November so we exchange details in the hope that we will one day make it there.  I now really need a special overseas book so that I can list all our contacts country by country as we have made so many new friends.

NAVARINO BAY 2

 

FRIDAY 20 FEBRUARY – An early start for out drive north through Filiatra where there is a replica Eiffel Tower and also a globe from the 1964 New York expo.  Harry Fournier, an ex doctor from Chicago, came here in the 60’s to build his fantasies.  The most amazing one is his fairytale castle on the beach.  Very like Disney but with 30-40 foot statues of Poseidon’s horse, Neptune and Athena amidst other strange statues scattered around the gardens.  At the moment all a little derelict but it looks like renovations work is beginning.  A nice change from all the old sites and fortresses.  Stop behind the beach at Kiparissia and enjoy and afternoons sunbathing.  This fantastic weather has now meant we have just completed day 4 of the tour on our 13^th day.  Tonight we are joined by English Jo (Josephine) and Dutch Han (Johan) in their motorhome.  We walk in to town for an evening meal then return to invite Jo & Han round for drinks and a chat.  They’ve been touring in their motorhome for 6 years.  I’m beginning to think we were late jumping on the bandwagon and certainly not as unusual in our ideas as we first thought. 

KIPARISSIA – 44 MILES

 

SATURDAY 21 FEBRUARY – Bit of a cloudy day.  Stay put and spend the day with Jo & Han, eating, chatting, drinking and playing boules.  We share an evening meal before settling down for the night.  Bit of a disturbance late evening when a load of youths begin riding their motorbikes around us.  Han pops out and has a word with them and all goes quiet.

KIPARISSIA 2

 

SUNDAY 22 FEBRUARY – 7am start for our drive to Olympia, the site of the original Olympic games.  Visit the sanctuary, stadium, archaeological museum and Olympic museum making the most of the free Sunday admission.  The actual site is a little disappointing but the museum makes up for it.  Hot and sunny now so we head to the nearest beach at Skafide and sunbathe for a few hours.  Continue north to Kalogria, a beautiful 6km strip of beach backed first by dunes and then a nature reserve in a pine forest.  The books tells us that you can swim in the estuaries here along with 1 metre long friendly water snakes – pass.  Joined on the car park by a German motorhome. 

KALOGRIA – 105 MILES

 

MONDAY 23 FEBRUARY – Perfect nice hot sunny day for sunbathing.  An elderly Englishman Maurice walks down with his dog “Mug” and Steve takes Mug for a run along the beach, as Maurice is unable to do this.  The German van leaves in the afternoon.  Late afternoon we drive to the corner of the car park where there is a water tap and give the van a really good wash.

KALOGRIA 2

 

TUESDAY 24 FEBRUARY – Another scorcher, probably the hottest day we’ve had since last autumn.  Sunbathe until 3.30pm then drive to Patra for LPG and a food shop.  Park above the town by the castle and church.  Walk down to town to check out the ferries.  We want to take one from here to Italy via Corfu but this is not possible in winter.  We will have to either miss Corfu or drive there then catch a ferry from Igoumenitsa.  On the way back to the van we call in at a rickety old off licence full of barrels.  You can buy almost anything by the litre.  We end up with wine, cinnamon brandy, 5* brandy, raki, ouzo, cointreau and crème de menthe mostly in 1 ½ litre water bottles.  An excellent £20’s worth.  Back at the van we realise our nice quiet spot is not so as the church clock clangs a bell every ¼ hour.  May have to sample some of our booze to knock us out although the samples in the shop have got us off to a good start. 

PATRAS – 31 MILES

 

WEDNESDAY 25 FEBRUARY – The bells chime twice for ¼ past, four times on the half hour and 6 times at ¼ to the hour plus a different bell then chimes 1 for each hour.  The as if that isn’t enough at 11.30 last night the dustbin mean came round then at 7.30am all the church bells in the area started to peel at once.  At this point we get up.  Our journey east takes us to Dhiakofto.  After dropping off the laundry we take the 100-year-old rack and pinion railway, 1800Drs (£4) return, up through the spectacular Vouraikos gorge to Kalavrita.  On 13 December 1043 at 2.43pm the Germans massacred the entire male population of 1436 mend and boys.  The clock on the church tower stays at this time and there is a massive shrine just on the outskirts of town.  It has a huge cross, external flame (but not burning just now), individual graves and a crypt with hanging incense burners, each with a tag dangling and the names and ages of the family members killed.  Quite a sobering place, we had no idea how badly this country suffered once invaded by the Germans but we can understand why they still hate them and prefer the British.  The return train doesn’t leave until 13.31 so we sit in the square and enjoy a snack and beer before ambling to the station.  The train is on the platform and we nip to the station loo before our 1-¼ hour journey.  Whilst we are both sat on the toilet we hear the train begin to pull out but are in no position to react quickly enough to get to it.  I look at the timetable and am embarrassed to see the departure time listed as 13.21 and it is now 13.22.  Probably the first time anything has left on time in Greece.  My fault entirely and Steve is non too pleased to learn the next trains isn’t until 15.30 and there isn’t a bus until 16.30.  Try to hitch a life.  A number of cars pass by and drivers indicate that they are either full or turning off but after a short time a Rover stops.  Dimitri gives us a lift back to Dhiakofto where he owns a bar; he takes us right to the van and pops in for a look.  We say we will try and call at his bar later as we have to stay in the village to collect our washing from the laundry (or rather the pharmacy as the laundry closed for the day at 1pm and they said they would leave our stuff there but didn’t mention that the pharmacy was closed from 1-5pm!).  After tea we collect the laundry and visit Dimitri.  It’s a very nice bar, surprisingly busy as he charges 500Drs (£1.10) for a small beer whereas the Café Neo’s would charge 300 or 350Drs for a large one.  Good luck to him.

DHIAKOFTO – 41 MILES

 

THURSDAY 26 FEBRUARY – Some rain and wind through the night so we have a lie before driving to Acrocorinth to explore the fort.  We spend quite a long time exploring the area and admiring the views.  Late afternoon we take the toll motorway, 800Drs (£1.75) for a fast (well fast for us at 55 mph) drive to Athens.  As usual we don’t like the traffic but manage o make our way to the Continent hypermarket near the airport.  We haven’t been in a decent supermarket since meeting Claire over a month ago so it’s not surprising that we spend over £100.  Park at Glyfaddda and hope there won’t be too many night flights.  Seems to have ended up on “lovers beach” as courting couples come and go all night.

GLYFADDA – 120 MILES

 

FRIDAY 27 FEBRUARY – It wasn’t too noisy in the night.  Drive to the campsite at Voula but it is now closed to everyone except the disabled.  Back to Glyfada to park up behind the beach near the marina.  Nice hot day so we sit out and do a bit of plane spotting.  Take in the afternoon showing of “Titanic” at the cinema, very good.  The Athens News proves interesting (for a change).  Apparently this weekend is a big holiday and Monday a bank holiday.  The bulk of Athenians are expected to head out to Patra for the carnival and we had been considering going there.  On the other hand it could be a good time to explore the city and as a bonus the sites and museums are free on Monday also.  Just find out that its Mother’s day on Sunday (the first we know of it as the diary I bought in Turkey doesn’t mention it!).  Too late for cards so will have to make a few phone calls.  Gremlins strike again and the furnace for our blown air heating is not working, and we now find that the instruction book is missing. 

GLYFADDA 2

 

SATURDAY 28 FEBRUARY – Lovely morning, clear blue skies so we are up and about early preparing for our visitors.  Have a problem when it comes to shower time.  Steve injured his little finger last year, first in Italy on a mock parachute jump then again last August in Turkey whilst playing squash.  It has been swollen and red at the end ever since and throbs occasionally.  (Now you can see why finger is underlined!).  Jan the German doctor told us to buy a roll of plaster of Paris and wrap it tightly for a couple of days to force the “poison” back into circulation.  All well and good when I put in on last Wednesday but now we can’t get it off.  We try scissors, hacksaw, stanley knife, oil to lubricate and hot water to melt it.  Eventually a combination works but his finger looks just the same.  Had visions of a trip to hospital at one stage.  On to the furnace problem which we just can’t figure out.  Although we are getting hot days the clear skies are giving us cold nights and we could do with the heating.  Force ourselves to pack in sunbathing and drive to the airport to meet Karen & John.  It’s great to see them again and we appreciate all the goodies they have brought.  Thanks once again everyone for your letters etc.  Park in Glyfadda and after a wander round town I prepare a Greek meze style meal. 

GLYFADDA 3 – 12 MILES  

THURSDAY 1 JANUARY 1998 – Manage against all odds (church bells, loud speaker church service, carol playing and sun shining through the blinds) to stay in bed until 11am.  By this time the van is getting hot (and smelly) and outside beckons.  Wonder what this year holds in store for us?  Doubt we will match last years total of 17 countries visited.  It’s hard to believe how much we packed into the last 12 months nor how often we changed our original plans.  We’ve both made new years resolutions to drink and eat less but fall at the first fence when Colin and Lin roll up at 12.00 with a big bottle of red wine.  Shortly after we are joined by Chris (having left Barrie in bed), Tsipi & Tom and some passing Greeks.  Looks like we won’t be able to cut back until we have left Elounda.  Lots of noise attracts us to the waterfront where we see a boat with a man dressed up as “superman” in a 1997 T-shirt sailing past.  The boat disappears around the corner and another one comes out decked in balloons with Santa on board.  He docks by the village square and comes ashore with a sack of pressies for the waiting children.   In Greece gifts are exchanged on New Years day instead of Christmas.  At The Venus the 3pm pig roast is finally served at 5pm due to technical problems and by 6pm we are back in the van shattered and full of alcohol and food once again!  Bed at 8pm

ELOUNDA – 16

 

FRIDAY 2 JANUARY – Leave Elounda at 10am.  Barrie, Chris, Colin and Lin come to wave us off.  En route to Iraklion we detour to drive through Malia, a package holiday resort aimed at the younger end of the market.  In winter it is like a ghost town but we believe that in season it is wall-to-wall disco’s bars and street parties.  Zoo disco has a wall that opens at midnight to increase its size.  Unfortunately the tour operators are considering pulling out as too many drunken youths are causing problems to the extent that someone died here last year.  It sound similar to Palma Nova on Majorca that we visit over 20 years ago but no holds no appeal at all.  Into Iraklion to collect the mail, even more Christmas cards and letters.  Out to Continent hypermarket to shop but it’s closed, as is the LPG station.  Nothing for it but to park up in our “usual” spot by Amoudari Beach.  Our regular en tour evening of food and games but we do manage an AFD (alcohol free day)!

AMOUDARI BEACH – 61 MILES

 

SATURDAY 3 JANUARY – In Continent by 9.30am, (or should I say at Continent as we don’t want you to get the wrong idea) for a quick trolley shop.  Our third visit so it is a once up each aisle and away.  The LPG station is still closed so we will try and make what we have last.  Drive south to Gortys, a ruined site that was the Roman capital of Crete and a lot of North Africa.  We park by the archaeological site entrance and walk back along the road towards the village of Ayii Dheka.  At the side of the road there are many tracks leading to the remains of temples, theatres and other buildings.  It seems strange having it all scattered over such a large unguarded area.  Steve keeps picking up bits of marble in the hope of finding a “treasure”.  In the village we buy gyros (Greek doner) 400Drs (88p) a beer 250Drs (55p) and a coke 150Drs (33p) at a Café Neo before walking back to the van and moving to a side road to park overnight so that we can do the main site tomorrow and save 1600Drs (£3.50).

GORTYS – 33 MILES

 

SUNDAY 4 JANUARY – Early start to take in three different archaeological sites.  Gortys, The palace of Festos and Ayia Triadha, saving us over £10 each on admission fees.  We have seen so many sites that although we like to see more a quick visit is enough and by lunchtime we are at Matala.  A sandy beach famous for the caves cut into the rocks at one end.  They were originally roman tombs but in the 60’s were used by hippies when there was a commune here.  Nowadays they are fenced off and closed in the evenings.  Yet again the guide books warns us to expect a packed beach and coach loads of tourists piling in, we enjoy it in solitude. 

MATALA BEACH – 33 MILES

 

MONDAY 5 JANUARY – At lunchtime the clouds appear so we head off and back track to Festos where we stop and chat to a Dutch couple in their motorhome.  On to Ayia Galini, a picturesque fishing village.  We spot another Dutch motorhome parked by the harbour and pull up nearby.  A lady and young girl walk all around our motorhome and Steve hears them debating in English whether we are German or not so he puts them right.  The lady is Dutch with an Irish husband and the girl has an American Mum and an English Dad.  The girl recommends her parent’s bar “Incognito”.  Tomorrow morning there will be a procession from the village church to the sea where the priest blesses a cross then throws it in the water.  We are parked on part of the route so will have to move first thing in the morning.  Take a nice walk along the harbour then round below the cliffs to the beach before returning over the hilltop and through the village.  “Incognito” have a sign us saying open at 8.30pm ish!     Back at the van another Dutch motorhome pulls up.  Marlene and Peter know Wim and Lis and keep linking up.  They have seen quite a few other motorhomes but non are the same as the ones we have seen.  We know that Claire & Malcolm (whom we met in Thessalonica) are on Crete as they left us a note at the Amex office but they had moved on before we got it and no one else has seen tem.  “Incognito” is still not open at 9pm so we go to another bar first and return just before 10am to find they have just opened.  The young girl Christina is there, Mum Marylynne, Dad Alan and a few other people.  We all play a type of Trivia quiz game based on 50’s and 60’s music.  They play one line of the song and you have to guess the next one.  Could have done with Pete Scott to help us.  I get stuck into the ouzo and feel worse for wear when we get back to the van.  So much for the New Year’s resolution – well we have had 2 AFD’s. 

AYIO GALINI – 22 MILES

 

TUESDAY 6 JANUARY – Sit on the bench in front of the van to drink coffee.  The two Dutch couples are sat out and we get engrossed in a conversation with them.  Before we have chance to move the vans the procession comes through and we have a ring side seat.  The priest throws crosses into the sea at which point cars sound their horns and boats their hooters (or rather the people in them do).  Young lads dive into the harbour to retrieve the crosses amidst much cheering.  A ceremony follows before everyone disperses.  Shortly after the Dutch motorhome that we saw yesterday at Festos pulls up with Vinand and Jeannie.  We all start to chat but it starts to spit with rain so all 8 of us retire into our van.  The other vans are old and quite small and they all say how nice and roomy ours is.  Vinand and Jeanie are in their 70’s and have been “on the road” for over a year continuously.  They carry only 30 litres of water (we have 150), have no shower and cannot stand up straight in their van, a bit too primitive for us but they are used to it and stay on sites more than us.  We talk about where we plan to travel and Vin tells us he goes to Scandinavia each summer and takes the ferry to Helsinki from Tallinn in Estonia having travelled there through Latvia and Lithuania.  He buys insurance at the borders and recommends this instead of our planned journey crossing from Gdansk in Poland – more food for thought.  Who said this was an easy life, it’s hard when there are so many decisions to make about where to go and then how to get there!  In the village we have become the focus of attention and unlike in England, where it is rude to stare, in Greece it is seen as a sign of admiration and they think nothing of peering through our windows – perhaps I should offer guided tours!  Yesterday we noticed that there had been a landslide below the cliffs between the harbour and the beach.  Locals tell us it happened last summer and a 21 year old English girl was killed.  She was walking with a Walkman headset on and didn’t hear the warning; at the last minute all she could do was jump into the sea to get out of the way before being hit by a rock.  A fishing boat found her next morning when he saw her hand floating in the water – Yuk.  As the day progresses I begin to feel worse and then remember that someone said if you get drunk on ouzo (or any pernod type drink) then you get drunk again the next day when you drink water as this reactivates it.  Seem to remember this happening to us last summer (28^th May) in France.  Skip back in the diary if you want to know how I feel.  Have a siesta and at 6pm join Trudie to visit the local Café Neo.  They offer very good complimentary nibbles, boiled eggs, tomatoes, pickled beans, olives, jacket potatoes and roast chestnuts.  Far more than we have ever been offered before and we rather like the idea of buying drinks and getting a meal thrown in.  9pm and we move on to Incognito.  Steve plays darts whilst I chat to Grigorio, a Russian KGB who now lives in Bavaria but works for the CIA – we certainly meet some characters.  Almost every time someone new enters the pub a complimentary drink of raki (local spirit brewed from the wine making dregs) is sent around.  It tastes awful but we don’t like to refuse and once again ended up sozzled.  Return to the van and shortly after get woken by rain.  Our grey water (bath and sink waste) tank is full and we see this as an ideal opportunity to empty it and let it run into the nearby drain.  Unfortunately in his drunken state Steve opens the toilet valve by mistake and it’s a few minutes before the stench hits him and warns him to close it quick!

AYIA GALINI 2

 

WEDNESDAY 7 JANUARY - We’re concerned about the mess we may have made with the waste so get up a first light.  You can still smell it and worse still there are turds behind the van.  Fortunately there is a tap nearby so once we have pooper scooped the worst bits we water and brush the rest away with disinfectant.  Next we start to clean our motorhome in order to explain away the river behind us!  Leave at noon and drive to Mires where we buy a double mattress 18,000Drs (£40) for our over cab bed as the foam one keeps bottoming out.  At Kok Pirgos we park behind the beach by a lovely fish restaurant “The Red Castle”.  It’s a very hot day with clear blue sky and we enjoy a meal al fresco at the restaurant (Steve finally gets lamb kleftica).  We have heard some funny stories these last few days, one about a Dutchman asleep on a car park in his motorhome – the police knocked on the door and said he couldn’t sleep there as it was only for parking and the man replied that it was no problem as he was not sleeping but making love to his wife!  The other about a crazy English ex army policeman travelling the world on his own in an old red double decker London bus.  The top deck has been turned into mini apartments for him to take in paying guests - last seen crossing Turkey.

KOK PIRGOS – 25 MILES

 

THURSDAY 8 JANUARY – Another very hot day with clear skies.  Walk along the beach and find a secluded spot to sunbathe au natural.  Back to the Red Castle late afternoon for a beer (as we are parked on his land we feel a bit obliged).  A visit later to the local Café Neo, the first one not to provide snacks so we won’t be going there again.  Can’t get used to seeing so many men with worry beads, some only in their 20’s, it drives you mad when you are in a bar and can hear them all rattling. 

KOK PIRGOS 2

 

FRIDAY 9 JANUARY – Phone Netty to wish her Happy Birthday, she tells me they are going to New York in February and Florida in May (and she thinks we are mad doing all this travelling!).  Also learn that the two Mums are going to Mexico together in March to visit Netty & Alan and family.  We have our usual sunbathing day and it’s hotter than ever.  Late lunch at the Red Castle where we chare a platter of 12 different fish lightly battered and fried but complete with heads, winking eyes and tails.  Mum, you wouldn’t believe how I now get stuck in and rip them apart.  Guess I must be a little more mature now although a quiz I did yesterday in Cosmopolitan to see if you are adult, teenager or child said I was ½ child and ½ adult – Steve says that sounds about right as I am a bit of a mix up.  Beautiful sunset behind the van over the ocean with small islands and a fishing boat to complete the scene; hope the photo is as good.  The only problem with these hot days is that the nights are cold but it’s a small price to pay and still much warmer than January nights in England.  We both fall asleep on the sofa before 9pm so crawl into bed with and extra blanket for an early night.

KOK PIRGOS 3

 

SATURDAY 10 JANUARY – Move on intending to go to Plakia.  Get lost and “enjoy” a scenic tour up in the mountains and into the Amari valley.  End up doubling back almost all the way to Galini.  Stop in Spilli to photo the famous 24 spouted fountain, which has 19 spouts from Lions mouths and 6 plain spouts!  Arrive at Plakias beach at 12.00 but it is very windy.  Try it on the beach but it’s not pleasant.  Further west Souda beach is also too windy and we can’t find anywhere to shelter.  Head inland to explore Prevali monastery but it is closed.  Walk to look at Palm Beach, a beautiful spot with a nice sandy beach divided by a river that has palm trees on both sides of it.  Further north a walk down Kourtali Otiko ravine takes us to a waterfall.  Our final spot for the day is on the car park by the late Minoan cemetery of Armeni (hopefully dead quiet).   

ARMENI – 85 MILES

 

SUNDAY 11 JANUARY – Early visit to the cemetery.  There are long tunnel entrances sloping down to burial chambers, the deepest and longest entrances are to the tombs of queens.  It’s all quite interesting and we amble round the site and explore inside a number of tombs but there’s little to see inside.  Make another scenic detour (our terminology for when we get lost) up and down mountain roads and round the peninsula by Georgopoulis before arriving back on the Akrotiri peninsula to visit American Steve.  We join him at the American road house, a typical American diner, and enjoy nice big juicy steaks.

AKROTIRI PENINSULA, ONIOUFRIOS BEACH – 61 MILES

 

MONDAY 12 JANUARY – Into Chania to park up by the old walls.  Get all the washing done in preparation of our visitor’s arrival.  Think the launderette will think it’s Christmas with the amount of business we have brought them.  Walk around Chania like locals with no map needed to guide us.  Back at the car park the Dutch couple Vinald and Gina arrive in their motorhome.  It’s late afternoon and once again we sit out and chat.  We’ve decide that it would be better for Claire and family to join us on Crete where the weather is better and we know our way around.  Visit a travel agent to try and make the necessary arrangements.  Stop for a beer and gyros before visiting the cinema to see “007 Tomorrow never comes”.  11pm back at the van and our usual quiet spot has been transformed by the opening of a new trendy bar opposite.  Will have to delete this from my recommended overnight parking list.

CHANIA, BY OLD WALLS – 6 MILES

 

TUESDAY 13 JANUARY – Return to John’s garage for him to complete the service (total cost including parts from the States £60).  Carry on to Omaloss and Samaria Gorge picking up an old man hitch hiking on route.  We drop him at the gorge entrance where he meets two other old codgers whose job it is to stop people entering the gorge, which is closed in winter.  16km long and the longest gorge in Europe it takes 6 hours to walk through in summer but is now flooded.  Well worth the drive for the views alone.  Our hitch hiker thanks Steve with a mug full of raki and this goes down really well as it was raki that made him drunk and ill the other night.  Chris & Barrie drive over from Elounda and meet us by the beach west of Chania.  It’s lovely to see them again.  We go to the American roadhouse for a meal then to American Steve’s where we are joined by Dave for a card evening.  Chris & Barrie are staying in the van with us parked up on beach.  The fun starts when we all try to settle to sleep.  It reminds me of the first night back at boarding school as we all keep getting the giggles.  Chris has a cold, Barry snores, Steve gets cramp and I fidget.  We all spend the night not sleeping through trying to avoid disturbing everyone else but what a laugh! 

ONIOUFRIOS BEACH – 66 MILES

 

WEDNESDAY 14 JANUARY – Up at 7am.  Barrie swears he hasn’t slept a wink so he must snore when awake.  He says he is going to sleep in the back of their estate car tonight and looks sad when no one objects.  Into Chania for a stroll around town.  Barrie pops in to what looks like a junk shop looking for a second hand guitar.  It turns out to be a gun shop and the old man gets it into his head that Barrie is German.  He shouts at and prods Barrie, shakes his head and says “no bazooka”.  We cannot make him understand what Barrie wants or that we are English and leave amidst a rapid fire of verbal abuse.  We get the impression that he has a big problem with Germans, good job we didn’t mention the war.  We take an afternoon ride in Barrie’s car to Souda Bay war cemetery (Brits, Aussie etc) and then west to Maleme German cemetery.  Both immaculate and in superb setting but it’s upsetting to see so many young buried.  Call at the go cart track and check in for 15 minutes of Athens driving practice.  Barry accelerates ahead with Steve hot on his heels.  I tootle round but at least stay on the track which is more than Steve does.  An evening visit to the Chinese restaurant, previously visited on my birthday.  A superb menu for 4 and the best crispy duck ever.  Take drinks by the edge of he harbour, cocktails in 1foot tall glasses.  Feel like real posers watching and being watched.

CHANIA – 7 MILES

 

THURSDAY 15 JANUARY – Have to find a new way out of Chania as a street market blocks out normal route.  Show Chris and Barrie round the ancient site of Aptera. We’ve visited previously but this time manage to find the house of columns in a field nearby.  Return to Lake Kournas and as the weather is so beautiful we call it a day.  Sit at a waterside restaurant table and order drinks and a meal.  Exercise for the day is a 1 hour pedalo tour round the edge of the lake.  We see some turtle at the far side and a few fish.  The only other thing of interest is the speed with which Steve gets out of the water having gone in for a swim.  I think the “King Hell” as he hits the water says it all.  Barrie and Chris leave at 5pm but not before an old bloke cadges a lift with them.  We decide to spend the night here, as it is so nice, peaceful, and scenic.   

LAKE KOURNAS – 29 MILES

 

FRIDAY 16 JANUARY – Lazy day b the lake.  Still can’t believe how good the weather is.  Have had to unpack more summer gear but I’m not complaining.  In Chania I bought the book “Who paid the ferryman” so I get stuck into it.  I recognise all the places mentioned and get so absorbed that I can’t put it down and end up reading the whole 284 pages before dinner time. 

LAKE KOURNAS 2

 

SATURDAY 17 JANUARY – Another lazy day at Kournas.  We go to the bar at 5pm so that Steve can watch the English football.  He is non too pleased when they put the ice skating on instead. 

LAKE KOURNAS 3

 

SUNDAY 18 JANUARY – Leave early and drive into Rethimno to pay a quick visit to the archaeological museum.  Next stop further east Adelianos Kambos beach where we sunbathe.  I colour my hair and have a bit left over so persuade Steve to go blonde as well, except he ends up brownish red.  When it clouds over we head back up into the mountains to the Arkadi monastery where in 1866 1000 Greek men, women and children tried to defend themselves against 17,000 Turks.  They shut themselves into the gunpowder room and blew themselves and 1,500 of the Turks up when all else had failed.  On to Eleftherna, a Dorian 10c BC town where we look at the watch tower, acropolis and underground water cisterns.  At Sendoni cave huge amounts of money have been spent making a grand car park and entrance but when they couldn’t get the price they wanted from anyone to rent and operate it they just left it.  The massive car park is now full of ruts, as it seems the locals’ use it as a race track.  The cave entrance is muddy with signs of a rock fall so we decline a visit, a shame, as it is one of the most beautiful caves on the island.  Final stop Anogia where the guide book recommends a restaurant with a fire outside to smoke the meat.  Unfortunately the meal is poor and quite expensive. 

ANOGIA, BY GARAGE – 71 MILES

 

MONDAY 19 JANUARY – Tillos, an ancient Dorian mansion is selected for our first visit – through the village we miss the turning and have to double back.  The road to the site is blocked and we cause our usual disturbance down the side streets waiting for badly parked cars to be moved.  We emerge at the place where we first entered the village and drive through again looking for parking but without luck.  Another about turn and back through to the other side of town where we manage to park.  WE have to look at the site through a fence so don’t spend long.  Make our final passage through the town.  We get more waves each time we pass – think it will be the red carpet if we do it again.  Into Iraklion to collect mail from Netty and a large packet from Claire with a lovely photo calendar featuring Daniel.  Travel agents next where we pay for tickets for Claire, Daz and Daniel to fly from Athens to Iraklion.  Regular shopping trip to Continent where Steve is so laid back he actually dawdles along behind me looking for things to buy – on our very few visits to supermarkets in England he used to march up and down each isle ahead of me and then leave!  Back to our beach parking spot at Amoudara.

AMOUDARA BEACH – 32 MILES

 

TUESDAY 20 JANUARY – Lots of rain in the night.  Reckon we have been lucky this last few weeks.  Drive south back to Gortys this time to climb up to the acropolis for views over the roman site.  Get rather lost and end up slithering down t wrong side of the mountain leaving us with a long walk back.  Heading further south we drive over more mountains with not only winding roads but rain and fog to make the driving difficult.  Come out at Lendis where we visit the Asciepieia.  Back in 4c BC this ancient spa site was visited by people from the mainland and Africa when word of the curing powers spread.  There’s a nice beach nearby but it’s not much good in the wind and rain.  Drive west to view he naturist sandy beach where we see a rainbow camper on the beach then another German converted lorry in the town.  We try to find a sheltered spot and try back up by the site and end up having to park near the town.  Call in to the local bar for evening drinks.

LENTAS – 50 MILES

 

WEDNESDAY 21 JANUARY – Happy Birthday Mum.  Drive back over Kofinas mountain range then east along the plateau.  Our route end up a zig zag pattern instead of the straight one shown on the map, half the roads are dirt tracks, others are not signposted, the map is inaccurate and the people you ask just guess directions.  A bit of a mystery tour but by keeping the sun ahead of us we manage to progress east.  Spend an hour walking round Iearapetre, a bit of a ghost town in winter with the waves crashing spectacularly over the promenade with café and bar areas.  Further east we pull up in a forest car park near Analipsi.  It’s a super spot with forest walks and caves behind us and across the road a beach and man made miniature marina.  Hopefully we will get to use the beach tomorrow.  At the moment it is cooler and windy but at least the rain has stopped.  Steve clips his toe nails and passes comment that this is the first winter for years that he hasn’t had Keighley toe (chilblains). 

NR KOUTSOURAS, ANALIPSI FOREST CAR PARK – 97 MILES

 

THURSDAY 22 JANUARY – It turns out that the car park is for the Dasaki butterfly gorge so we follow the trail of yellow paint blobs.  The small stream leads us into the gorge under strange rock formations and shelf caves.  We begin to see small waterfalls and the route involves much hopping over stepping stones.  Quite a lot of butterflies but all the same type.  We come to a halt where the gorges rocky sides meet at a pool with a waterfall beyond.  There is a yellow paint blob above the waterfall and a knotted rope hanging down it.  It’s not for us today, too cold and we have neither swimwear nor waterproof bags or perhaps we are getting a little more sensible in our old age.  There’s running water from a tap in the car park so we wash the van and a well timed downpour rinses it.  The rain here is strange, you get a sudden very heavy downpour but equally suddenly it stops, just like a tap being turned off.  Venture east to Zakros but a combination of inaccurate map, poor signs and bad information (yet again) lead us south east towards Xerobambos.  Things get worse as we are now low on fuel and the only petrol station we pass doesn’t have diesel.  Having gone up and over the mountains the tarmac road abruptly stops and becomes a dirt track.  We are just completing a 33 point turn when a truck comes by and the driver strongly advises us to continue on the dirt track as it is only 20 km on

 passable surface to Zakros where there is a petrol station.  Do another 33 point turn and head off but things get worse.  The track becomes bright pink mud and the clean van disappears under a layer of mud.  The surface deteriorates to a level where we wouldn’t normally bring and old car never mind our motorhome.  We come to junctions with no signs or obvious route and invariably take the wrong one and have to double back.  Meanwhile the fuel gauge is dropping but we dare not stop in case we waste anymore.  After over 2 hours we emerge frustrated, filthy (me included from getting out to back us up) and almost out of fuel, into Zakros.  We’re delighted to make it to the petrol station but it’s bad news as all he pumps are out of order.  We’ve come all this way to visit the site of Kato Zakros but this is 8km east and the nearest petrol station is 18km in the opposite direction.  Actually the decision is made easier when we realise that it is now ¼ to 3 and the site closes at 3pm.  In Palekastro we fill up on diesel then go north to Vai Beach.  Famous as the location for the Bounty commercials as it is at the end of a valley of over 5000 palm trees.  The story is that the arab pirates came ashore here and the palms grew from the date stones they spat out which makes them date palms so how come the “coconut” bounty advert was filmed here?  Again the book slates it as a beautiful but very overcrowded spot but once again we are along and hope the photos we have taken come out well.  There’s a phone box in the car park and Steve phones Claire and we get the sad news that Uncle Gerald died of a heart attack on Monday.

VAI BEACH – 54 MILES

 

FRIDAY 23 JANUARY – The weather has improved again so I dig my bikini out and a few hours sunbathing.  We want to view Toplou monastery in Sitia and pull up on the waterfront to spot Claire & Malcolm’s motorhome.  Postpone our plans to carry on to Elounda in order to spend time with them.  Catch up on their news then all go to the cinema to see “The Game” with Michael Douglas.

SITIA – 15 MILES

 

SATURDAY 24 JANUARY – Return to Elounda.  First stop Colin & Lin’s stop then the Venus Bar where we meet up with Chris, Barrie, Chris, Chrissie Roger, Stuart, Jerry, Mark, Denis and Travis.  Bit like coming home to a family as everyone welcomes us back.  Steve goes into Ayios with Mark & Barrie to watch football whilst I go to Chris’s for a welcome bath.  We all meet up again at The Waterfront for a meal and drinks.

ELOUNDA – 29 MILES

 

SUNDAY 25 JANUARY – Woken by church bells then rain.  Chris has given me an old duvet set and I spend the morning altering the curtains.  Steve tries to improvise a curtain rail out of my washing line but it isn’t up to Blue Peter standard.  Tom & Tsipi stop by.  Call up to see Iris and John and say Goodbye to Iris who is off to England tomorrow.  We go to Chris and Barrie’s for a traditional Sunday roast beef dinner.  Think the UK is the place where meat, potatoes, vegetables and gravy constitute a normal meal – for us it takes some beating.  I watch Somersby on video in the evening, Steve joins Barrie & Mark for the regular Sunday Elounda challenge – table soccer, pool, and darts at various locations, all just happen to be bars.  When we went into he Venus Bar yesterday we were recruited for a boat race next Friday so Barrie spends all evening winding up the opposition that Daz is being flow in as an ex Cambridge rower to be on their team.

ELOUNDA 2

 

MONDAY 26 JANUARY -   Rain on and off all day, hope it stops before Claire arrives.  Drive into Ayios to get a new valve put in the tyre.  Finish making the new curtains and cushion covers.  Getting very exciting about our impending visitors.  Go out for a nice meze meal with Chris & Barrie.  Return to the van to watch more episodes of “Bottom” and we all learn the bedtime verse:-

Night night, sleep tight don’t let the bed bug bite

If they do, do a poo and put it in the Cornish stew.

Into the ambulance dring dring dring, fish trouser elephant in Beijing

Saw a busy bee, diddle diddle dee

Daddy’s an accountant just like me

Night night!

ELOUNDA 3 – 15 MILES

 

TUESDAY 27 JANUARY – David’s 19^th birthday.  Even worse weather with hail stones in amongst the heavy rain.  We spring a leak in the roof by the shower and rain also seeps in through an air vent above the wardrobe.  Phone David to wish him a Happy Birthday and he tells us he has written to us via Claire, should be interesting.  Steve goes out to play with Barrie whilst I prepare the van for our visitors.  Steve returns at 4pm very merry and reminds me of how he used to be after his Christmas Eve drinks with the boys.  I cook a meal for us all and we try to watch “The hand that rocks the cradle” video, not very appropriate with Daniel arriving tomorrow.  We plan an early start as today the road to Iraklion was blocked with snow at one stage.

ELOUNDA 4

 

WEDNESDAY 28 JANUARY – I manage to rest in bed until 7am but have spent most of the night calculating just where Claire & Daz are on their journey.  Arrive at Iraklion airport in plenty of time for the 10.50am flight arrival.  It is lovely to see them again.  Apart from the time dragging at Athens airport they have had a good journey.  Head straight to Continent hypermarket for a quick shop before driving to Elounda.  We make the 1 ¼ hour journey with 3 sleepers on board.  Park up and leave Claire & Daz to sleep whilst we parade 5 month old Daniel around town.  Regular Wednesday bingo outing, quite a dramatic introduction to Crete.  Claire and I leave at 10pm with Daniel and Steve and Daz stay until after midnight and return with the quiz winnings. 

ELOUNDA 5 – 96 MILES

 

THURSDAY 29 JANUARY – A nice morning and after our 2 hour getting up routine in the van we emerge to sit in the sun.  Claire & Daz go for a walk to Spinalonga with Daniel whilst I enjoy a proper look at the photos that Claire has brought and re read all the most welcome letters.  Later we visit the Café Neo next to Makalis’s and enjoy cool beers whilst sitting out on the terrace with views all over Elounda.  Steve, Barrie and Daz play pool late afternoon.  Claire tries to catch up on some more sleep and I do what Grandmas do best.  An evening meal at a typical Greek restaurant seals the day.  Assorted meze – chips, calamari fritters, meat balls, fried courgettes, fresh fish, pork kebab, stuffed cabbage, deep fried cheese, Greek salad and garlic bread followed by fruit and then later ice cream.  A 4 ½ hour feast.  Daniel is excellent and everyone fusses over him.  I stay sober to look after Daniel while everyone else hits the raki.

ELOUNDA 6

 

FRIDAY 30 JANUARY – The planned trip to Vai beach doesn’t happen.  Apart from Daniel and me no one surfaces before 10am and by the time everyone has washed, dressed, breakfasted and packed up the weather changes and tempers are getting frayed.  We have evolved into our own little routine but this only really works for he two of us.  Also our visitors are not used to being in a motorhome.  Drive into Ayios Nikolaos and enjoy a pleasant stroll round town.  Back in Elounda Barrie picks us up for a dry run for his “Happy Raki” tour.  Along with Mark he plans to take tourists into the mountains to visit 8 different Café Nio’s where the owners will give them a free shot of raki at each.  The plan is to spend ½ hour at each one so having downed the free drink they are encouraged to buy others.  We stop at only 3 and return in time for Claire & Daz to get ready for a meal out whilst we baby-sit.  They enjoy a belated birthday meal for Daz at The Venus and I try to catch up on my diary and start replying to all the letters we have received.  Barrie gave us an interesting snippet of info today.  The reason there are so many unfinished looking buildings in Greece is that you only have to pay tax once building is complete.  By leaving rods sticking out of the roof they can claim they are saving up to build another story. 

ELOUNDA 7 – 14 MILES

 

SATURDAY 31 JANUARY – An early start and we make it to Vai (Bounty) beach in time for lunch.  What a change since we were here a week last Thursday – the storms have caused a lot of rubbish to be washed through the car park and on to the beach and the rainwater has gouged a river from the car park, through the beach and into the sea.  On the way back I drop Steve in Ayios and drive the motorhome back to Elounda.  The big kids have a sleep whilst I take the little one out for a walk.  Our leaving party at The Waterfront Dutch bar.  Barrie, Chris, Mark, Denise, Colin, Lin, Tom and Tsipi give us a good send off.  We sample the Dutch and Indonesian house mix with chips then Claire & Daz leave as it gets too smoky for Daniel. 

ELOUNDA 8 – 129 MILES

 

 

November 1997

Well Hello again

Once again you have been selected to receive the Swatman Christmas Special and I hope it finds you fit and well. What a year we have had - never a dull moment what with our travels, a wedding and a new baby in the family (don't panic not mine!). So on with the mini Diary:

November 1996 - Signed the binding paperwork on the sale of the business the day before setting off to China. The schedule is that we move out of the house on Friday 3 Jan, transfer the shop business on Saturday 4th and hand over the Post Office on Wed 8th.

December - China was fantastic and my 40th Birthday especially memorable as we visited the Terracotta warriors. The weather was very cold but with blue skies and sunshine each day and not too many people around it suited us. At one stage we had a stretch of the Great Wall all to ourselves to walk along - not much chance of that in the summer when people are 6 abreast along it. We returned on 8 December and it was action stations to get the house emptied. I decided that it would be nice to combine a New Years eve party with a leaving party. We collected out motorcaravan on Sunday 22 December and load it up with our "new lifes" necessities. Christmas is spent in the Midlands with us testing out the van under snow conditions. New Years eve didn't quite work as planned as the weather was awful and our guests from afar couldn't come but we had a good party with friends and neighbours.

January 1997 - The handover of the Post Office and Shop completed we started off on a farewell tour of friends and family intending to start down South and head North to finish with a bit of ski-ing in Scotland . Unfortunately some big problems showed up with the van and the company wanted it back for 1-2 weeks for repairs so apologies if we didn`t get to see you. Having already made our presence felt on our visits we decided that as we will be homeless a cheapie holiday would fit the bill so 25 January sees us on a plane to Tunisia for 2 weeks Claire finally moves in the house she is buying with her boyfriend Darren then shortly after tells us the news that she is pregnant but they are not sure if they want to marry just yet.

February - After 2 weeks most enjoyable holiday we found the van still wasn't ready so stay at Mums for 2 weeks before our next trip. Claire decided the day before we left again that they want to have a full Church wedding as soon as possible so we have to leave her to start arranging it. We fly to Singapore for 3 days and then tour through Malaysia and up to Penang where Dad was in the war. It was nice to be able to show Mum all the places they had planned to visit after he had retired.

March - Return on 8 March and found that Claire had organised just about everything for a Wedding on April 26th. This made us decide to take a short trial run trip in the van and return for the Wedding before setting off in earnest. David had not been too well and was out of work so we agreed to take him with us for a holiday. Our journey took us down through France where the weather was beautiful and hot and produced our first problem with the van overheating. Spain fixed it temporarily so we ventured on to Portugal.

April - 5 weeks after setting out and having visited France, Spain and Portugal we were convinced that the idea of Motorcaravan traveling was for us but our first van wasn't up to the job. We decided on the smallest American Motorhome available and chose one in Wolverhampton where they took the old one in part exchange. The Wedding day was not too good on weather but everything else made up for it. Top hats and tails were the order of the day but most other things were very informal and we all enjoyed ourselves.

May - Our big trip started on 7th May with a channel crossing to France and a detour via Belgium to Luxembourg to fill up with over 200 litres of diesel as it is cheap there. Back into France and towards the South coast.

June - On to Italy where we picked our friend Sandra up in Milan to travel with us for 2 weeks.

July - Slovenia, Hungary and into Romania. Big changes were noticed in the standards of roads, living and foods as we ventured into Eastern Europe but the people more than made up for it and a Romanian couple who were on the camp site next to us insisted we return to their house in Bucharest for a few days.

August - Out of Romania for 2 weeks in Bulgaria and on to Turkey where we met up with Barry whom we had met previously on the Hungarian/Romanian border. We became very good friends with Barry and his Turkish fiancee Cicek and stayed at his house. Claire was taken into hospital with high blood pressure and they induced the baby. Daniel Lee Wilson was born on Saturday 30th August after a quick labour with Mum an baby in great shape.

September - Monday 1st and we were on a flight back to Manchester to visit our new grandson. Claire was home and looked very well and Daniel just beautiful. Stayed in England for 3 weeks before flying back to Istanbul for Barrys wedding.

October - The Turkish Wedding was most interesting - I went to the hen night and Steve became Barry's witness (Turkish version of Best Man), we really enjoyed it all. Set off on our journey down through Turkey. Traveled down the West coast then along the South before cutting through Cappadocia in the centre.

November - Back in Istanbul having had such a superb time in Turkey. The sights and people have been fantastic. 21 November and our 3 month Turkish visa runs out so Greece next stop with a detour to Bulgaria for cheap fuel.

What next you may ask - Crete for a couple of months, Claire Darren & Daniel are flying to Athens end of January and some other friends end of February. March should be on to southern Italy and up through Austria to Czech Republic , Slovakia, Poland and on to Scandinavia. IF all is still going well we will return to England around September to sell the motorhome before flying to the States to buy another one and spend a year traveling there.

All the family are well. Claire is contemplating going back to work full time, Darren is working, Daniel is growing fast. David is still in Keighley and unsettled. Mum had a laser op on her eyes and it seems to have worked well. We visited everyone else in September and have nothing else to report. Fortunately Steve is of the same mind as me and enjoying traveling so much that we share the same optimism for our future plans.

If you would like to drop us a line we can collect mail from the American Express office in Crete (letters and cards only as they will not except packages) and we should be there from end of November until mid January. A Very Merry Christmas to you all- we will be thinking of England on Xmas day. We wish you well and all the best for 1998. Should you wish to join us for any part of our journey just contact Claire as we are in touch regularly. We are always glad of company and although we have met and made many new friends you cannot beat a good chinwag about old times.

Love from SWATMAN S T & G

c/o Adamis Tours, Avgoustou 23,

PO Box 1031. CRETE. GREECE.

Steve & Glen

 

 

 

 

 

TUESDAY 16 DECEMBER – Make good use of the available running water with Steve cleaning the roof of the van whilst I scrub the mats wash come clothes and clean the kitchen floor.  It’s nice and sunny so with the chores completed we enjoy a beer or two sitting in the sun.  Steve has discovered that the hypermarket pay 25Drs (6p) for empty beer cans so for every four he finds he can trade them in for a full can!  Rain late afternoon.

MALIA, SUN HOTEL CAR PARK 2

 

WEDNESDAY 17 DECEMBER – Drive just along the beach to the ancient Minoan palace of Malia.  It’s just after 9am and the sign says open from 8.30am but there is no sign of life.  A closer inspection reveals at room at the back of the site entrance from which a mean emerges to open the ticket booth and entrance gate.  No one has visited for 2 weeks and he wasn’t expecting anyone today!  It’s an unusual site, which hasn’t been reconstructed, but because it was never reoccupied all the walls are intact up to about 2’ high.  They are in the process of unearthing a whole town at the side of it.  The guardian tells us of a big problem in Athens where they keep finding ruins whilst trying to build an underground railway.  Next port of call is Ayio Nikolaos.  Our approach to the town is hampered by a double parked car but after much hooting (mainly by the car stuck behind us) a policeman arrives, can’t find the car owner so books him then moves the car on the opposite side of t road.  We proceed about 100 years before finding the road blocked again – this time by the Police car!  We eventually pull on to the car park and are amazed to see two cars with GB stickers.  We have come here in the hope of finding some activity at a hotel or something local going on over Christmas.  I approach a lady in the blue astra who turns out to be Chris from Darlaston.  She moved to Crete a month ago with her partner Barrie.  They are renting a place just north of here at Elounda.  We follow them back and park in the square by the harbour.  The Venus Bar is run by Chris and Chrissie who set out from England in October 1996 in a motorhome to travel the world.  They got to Crete and fell in love with the place so last December bought the bar/restaurant.  We sign up for the Christmas day lunch, the whole monty including a bottle of wine for 5,000Drs, boxing day buffet at 2,500Drs (£5.50) and the New Years eve pig roast 3500Drs (£7.70).  Chris has been a chef in many famous hotels and the visitors book (which started out as a visitor book for “Henry” their motorhome – sad or wot?) has lots of glowing tributes to the excellent food.  Next we call at Barrie and Chris’s flat.  Chris invites us to put a load in the washing machine then join tm for a drive up into the mountains to a very traditional Greek village taverna.  We are welcomed into a sparsely furnished room and sit on wooden home made chairs drinking beer.  The owner is a very old man and he keeps bringing us nibbles of nuts, apples with a sort of honey syrup to dip them in and home made cake.  He chats to us and unveils his concerns about the price of gold as he has 2 kilos of Victorian sovereigns!  We return to the van for a late siesta before meeting up for bingo, held each Wednesday at the “Hope Café Nio”, Café Nio’s being traditional meeting places for the Greeks.  You usually get two side by side, the green one being for labour people and the blue for conservatives.  During the war the Germans took over the green and the Italians the blue ones.  The bottom rails around the tables are worn away from when the soldiers used to wipe their boots on them.  The gathering consists of: - Irene and John a Welsh couple but locals for 15 years, southerners Mark and Denise here for 7 years, a Scottish couple who arrived here in October, Barrie & Chris who came in November and us who have just arrived!  The owner joins us all playing bingo and John calls the numbers out in English and Greek.  As the evening progresses we help ourselves to drinks from the fridge and at the end of the night pay up based on the number of empty bottles on the table.  Despite playing 3 games of bingo we don’t win a thing but take the kitty for both rounds of the trivial pursuit quiz that follows.  Irene invites us to join them next Wednesday, Christmas eve, for more of the same but we are all to bring snacks and the quiz will have a festive theme.  We totter back to the van at 1am but by 3am can’t settle as the waves are lapping around us so Steve gets us and drives along to the other end of the harbour.

ELOUNDA

 

THURSDAY 18 DECEMBER – We now have a lovely parking spot with our own quiet beach and a view back along the promenade with all the Christmas lights.  Now that we have established our plan of action for Christmas and New Year (New Years eve everyone goes to the Dutch bar “The Waterfront” and Barrie says he will put our names down for that also).  It’s a bit of a dull day so we drive back down to Ayios Nikolaos to explore.  On the way the weather looks much brighter ahead so we continue down to the south of the island.  At the petrol station a most peculiar vehicle pulls up and I can only describe it as a small wagon covered in canvas being towed by a man sat across the front steering a very rusty ancient lawn mower!  A valley cuts through the island from north to south and we soon emerge on the south side at sunny Ierapetra.  Head east along the coast but each time we stop we find it is too windy to settle.  Not to be defeated we turn around and head west to Mirtos, a tiny village recommended in the book.  The streets are so narrow that having entered the place we have no room to turn left or right and make a reverse exit to a small road running behind the beach.  At last the hills behind us are shielding us from the wind so we set up stall and enjoy 10 minutes of bliss before it clouds over.  Continue with the road, on the map it veers inland before rejoining the main highway.  Yes you’ve guessed, it doesn’t veer inland and instead gets narrower and narrower and bumpier and bumpier with a drop into the sea on the left and a rock cliff face on our right. It’s a difficult decision whether to try and reverse back or carry on but continuing looks to be the worst of the two evils.  We eventually emerge amongst a field of plastic greenhouses growing tomatoes.  Manage a 33 point turn in the muddy tractor ruts.  At this point I am inclined to agree with my sister that we are mental.  Drive back to Elounda stopping on route at a huge shed housing a market where I buy a pair of black “genuine” Levi 501’s for £10.  I console myself that as the jeans are obviously fake then so too is he size tag saying 32” waist!

ELOUNDA – 93 MILES

 

FRIDAY 19 DECEMBER - Reckon the sun and wind are following us as we wake up in a wobbly van but we see blue skies and sunshine.  It’s exactly a year since we collected our first motorhome “The Solifer” and to celebrate we have booked a table at the Venus.  Chris is going to cook us his speciality “Chicken Veneziana” which is a special recipe that originated in on of the top hotels in Venice.  I am trying to persuade Steve to get the bikes off so that we can take some exercise.  I want to wear my black lycra Ann Summers dress on New Years eve without looking like I’m pregnant.  Begin to feel like a local as I chat to people en route to the shop.  For any telly addicts Elounda was the location for “Who paid the ferry man”.  When I get back to the van Steve is chatting to Pete from Jennifer’s Bar who is out walking his dog Whisky.  He tells us it will be windy al day so we replace the bike ride with a walk.  Ray & Helen (the Scottish couple whom we met in the Café Neon) drive by and offer us a lift to the big supermarket at “Ag Nik”.  Easily persuaded to abandon our walk we join them then return to their apartment.  Stay for coffee and a couple of hours chin wag leaving just enough time for a quick siesta.  Lovely meal in the Venus Bar. Start with a Greek salad followed by mushroom pasta before Chicken Veneziana, the sauce is superb.  Chris and Barrie join us later and give us an envelope that looks like a Christmas card but is a card saying “bath voucher – Have a Happy Christmas a giggle and a laff, we don’t know what to buy you so come and have a baff. Barrie and Chris” – Brilliant. 

ELOUNDA 2

 

SATURDAY 20 DECEMBER – I join two car loads of people for an 8.30am departure to Iraklion to visit the big Saturday market, Continent hypermarket then Makro.  I leave everyone at the market and go to the Amex office and collect lots of mail.  Ian & Cynthia (whom we met in Saint Tropez in June) write that they were in Crete with their motorhome until just 2 days before we arrived. A card from the Dutch couple tells us they have made it through Syria and into Jordan without problems.  From Claire there’s a letter and a photo of Daniel (now proudly displayed on the fridge door).  Buy a Greek style velour blanket at the market then catch up with the others.  Chrissie (the lady from the Venus bar) has come to buy groceries for the restaurant but is a very slow and unorganised shopper and drives us all crazy.  It’s 6pm by the time we get back to Elounda.  In the evening we all meet up in “The Waterfront” Dutch bar.  A really cute blonde haired little boy attaches himself to me and his Mum Jenny makes enquiries to see if we are residents, as she need a babysitter for “Yorgas” who normally won’t go to anyone – unlucky.  We enjoy a shared meal, the house speciality being Indonesian Nasi Goreng, lots of spicy tit bits and dips.  Steve is rather merry by the time we leave to walk home.

ELOUNDA 3

 

SUNDAY 21 DECEMBER – A nice day and we’ve noting planned so sit out playing backgammon.  Barrie & Chris call by and offer us a ride into Ayios to wander round so we pack everything away and join them for a very pleasant browse.  We do a BBQ on return and although it start with just the four of us our prominent location attracts the crowds and we are joined by Ray & Helen, Tom & Tsipi (an Israeli couple with their boat moored in the bay) and finally by Mark.  It all turns into a bit of a booze up in the sun.  Evening at The Waterfront but we leave early as the music is very loud.

ELOUNDA 4

 

MONDAY 22 DECEMBER – Unbelievably another nice day so before it changes we get the bikes out and cycle to Olous Island that is opposite us and then all around the village.  We notice that whenever the church bell is tolled the old ladies cross themselves; most of them are dressed all in black and affectionately known as blackbirds.  The nativity scene in the square is now finished but don’t have Christmas carols playing from speakers as they did in Ayios.  Back at the van we are just about to set up the table and chairs to play backgammon when Tom and Tsipi calls us from their dinghy.  They ask if we would like to go on the boat with them to Spinalonga, a tiny island in the bay an abandoned leper colony with lots of ruins.  We go on the dinghy to their boat and on the way learn that they are a bit older than us and planning a similar trip but by sea.  We don’t much like the sound of the 2 month crossing from the Azores to New York, especially when they tell us that until buying their 12 metre boat a year ago neither of them had sailed at all, and you thought we were mad?   There’s not much to explore on the island but it’s OK.  Back a the van we are waiting to hear from t man whose kiosk we are parked by.  We want to plug in and use his electricity and need to discuss payment.  We have left lots of messages around the town and called at his house but no response.  We hear a knock on the door “parakalo, electriciteeee”, Barrie returning our washing and winding us up at the same time.  Just as he is leaving Nikos pulls up and assures us it is Ok to use his electricity and we think we have agreed to pay him the same price as we would pay for electricity on a campsite but as everything we say is OK who knows?  A quick drive up to Plaka to find a place to empty our tanks.

ELOUNDA 5 – 6 MILES

 

TUESDAY 23 DECEMBER – We have now sussed out the weather pattern here.  Hot and sunny in the morning with wind and cloud gathering by the afternoon.  Taking this into account we spend the morning on the beach and even take a paddle to check out the water prior to our Christmas day swim.  I have a haircut at the local barbers (last one was in Turkey 8 weeks ago) and make a mistake when he asks me how much hairdressers charge in England as this turns out to be the exact price that he charges me!  Chatting to people we learn that you can rent a 1 bedroom apartment here for as little as £100 a month in the winter or sometimes for the whole year if you pay ahead, no wonder there are so many Brits around.  Following a drink and meal at The Venus, Barrie and Chris come back to the van.  They are also fans of the comedy “Bottom” so we have a good chuckle watching a few episodes on video. 

ELOUNDA 6

 

WEDNESDAY 24 DECEMBER – Christmas eve.  I convince us it really is Christmas by playing festive tapes whilst we sit out sunbathing.  A ride into Ayios with Barrie to collect the English Christmas papers but here aren’t any.  We cash in our voucher and take a bath at Barrie & Chris’s, bliss, a nice long soak in a hot bubble bath with aromatherapy oils.  We proceed to the Hope Café Nio with our trays of nibbles.  Chris has cheese and spinach pies plus mince pies.  I have prepared sweet and salted versions of popcorn, loads of different dips and different types of crisps to dunk.  There are about 20 of us, all British except 1 Greek lady and I am one of 3 to wear festive earrings so feel in good company.  Steve wins one of the bingo games, Chris a line and Barrie another game but we do badly in the quiz.  The food is great, drinks cheap and as the evening progresses we go on the play charades and I’m going shopping (which I win).  Not so very different to back home but we still miss our family and mates.

ELOUNDA 7

 

THURSDAY 25 DECEMBER – MERRY CHRISTMAS.  Arrive back at the van around 1.30am and shortly after it starts raining heavily so we get up to watch a video knowing we can have a long lie in in the morning.  How wrong could we be?  5am the church bells start and ring for ages.  Again at 7am the chime followed by the church Christmas service broadcast on loud speakers around the square.  Steve wanders into the square and reports that the church is full to overflowing and people are standing in the street joining in with the service.  Give up trying o sleep.  Chris and Barrie call down for coffee and we breakfast on chips, dips and chocolate weinbrandbohnen.  We arrange to meet at 11am for a swim but by 11.15 no one else has shown so we go it alone but have just dried off when Barrie appears so it has to be a repeat performance with Chris photographing us.  Back in the pre-heated van we sip warm “Glu wein”.  We are joined by Colin and Lin, who used to have a pub in Hawkshead but have not bought a supermarket in Elounda.  We’ve all been making phone calls to England and discuss what we have heard.   Agree without a doubt that although the sea may be cold the air temperature is much better than in England.  3pm we rendezvous at The Venus.  The chiffon outfit bought for Cicek’s wedding gets a second outing and Steve also spruces up.  It’s a really international gathering with British, German, Greek, Belgian, Dutch, Israeli, Swiss and Canadian people. We are the odd ones out being the only non smokers amongst nearly 30 people.  This has been the case from Hungary onwards and at times has cut short our evenings, as the smoke has been so bad.  Fortunately today it is warm outside so the doors are open to start with.  We enjoy a typical British Christmas dinner but notice the Greeks and Belgians eat very little, decide the Belgians must eat Brussels pate, sprouts and Belgian chocolate and the Greeks are waiting for it to go cold!  We retire for an early night after watching Faulty Towers in the van with Chris and Barrie. 

ELOUNDA – 8

 

FRIDAY 26 DECEMBER – Lunch at The Venus, traditional cold buffet which we start eating outside but retire indoors as the sun drops.  We watch a man on the quayside tenderising an octopus.  This involves much strength as he keeps picking it up and bashing it back on to the concrete – we saw this being done a few days ago and thought they were trying to kill them!  The buffet is followed by games and everyone is enjoying themselves so much that once we have played all of Chrissies games I am persuaded to take over.  I organise passing the orange and then polo, musical chairs with men sat down on the seats with a balloon on their knees and pass the parcel with forfeits.  Makes us feel really at home.  We return to the van after a great time but smelling awful after being stuck in a bar full of smokers.

ELOUNDA – 9

 

SATURDAY 27 DECEMBER – Dull drizzly day.  Walk to the island to see the Byzantine mosaic.  In the evening Steve joins Chris and Barrie for a Balti at the Venus but my suspicions are proved correct and the “fresh traditional lamb Balti” emerges as a leftover Christmas turkey curry and not very good at that.  We’ve borrowed Michael Palins “Full Circle” videos and I prefer to stay in and watch these and for once not end up with my hair and clothes stinking of smoke.

ELOUNDA – 10

 

SUNDAY 28 DECEMBER – Steve’s yesterday purchased a bag of fresh fish.  He was very proud to have sussed out the system – the fishing boats dock and unload the pre-ordered fish first and then put the rest on the back of a truck.  This is driven into the square and announcements made over a loudspeaker.  Steve went off with 1000Drs (£2.20) and in exchange got ½ carrier bag full of 5” fish (he’s just measured them and also counted up that we have 30).   They look like the type of fish we have seen people barbequing so seeing how many he got we threw out an invite for people to joins us.  The problem is that it is now raining, we don’t know how else to cook so many at once and the fridge is starting to stink!  We wind the awning out and have a trial run cooking four of them first dipped in flour.  Quite tasty but too many bones for my liking.  Retreat into the van and fester for the rest of the day curled up in bed listening to the rain, drinking and watching videos – terrible!

ELOUNDA – 11

 

MONDAY 29 DECEMBER – Steve’s Dad Trevor’s 70^th birthday.  A much brighter day so we’re up and out early to pick up some fruit and veg from the village square Monday market.  My Greek is improving and after the bingo sessions I understand when they tell me the prices.  Send out word that we will have the BBQ at 1pm and Chris and Barrie are the first to arrive with kebabs, garlic bread, wine and fresh extra virgin olive oil to dip the fish in.  Barrie did a few weeks work olive picking where they press them in situ and get paid on the quantity of oil produced.  His employer also gave him some oil to keep.  Tom & Tsipi chug over in the dinghy with salad, an Israeli dip and beer.  Ray & Helen complete the party whom we have invited bringing pork chops and beer.  Next the Greek man who is renting a car to Ray drives past with Mike the water sport man and his girlfriend Grit and they join us.  The is followed by John & Iris who are strolling past walking their dog, Yorgas, Emmaline and Mum Jenny and Dad Costas who had gone to the park and Mark & Denise who stroll over after work.  No one seems to notice that the food runs out, as the beer and wine supply is good.  Steve gets the boules set out and it is competition time on the beach.  Fortunately it starts to get dark and cold at 5.30pm so most people drift away, don’t think I can seat more than 10 in the van.   Time for a quick nap before Ray & Helen pick us up and we meet John & Iris for an Italian meal finally returning just after midnight.  A great day, and Happy Birthday Trevor – we celebrated it in style on your behalf.  

ELOUNDA – 12

 

TUESDAY 30 DECEMBER – Nice day.  Chris was sick last night so she stays at home but Barrie comes down to play boules with us on the beach and then he and Steve go to the bar to play pool and table football.  Steve had a strange dream last night about a dog called Ella and when Iris comes past with their dog we ask if that is her name – it turns out that “ella” is Greek for “come here” and this is where Steve has heard it.  In the evening we have a meal at Barrie and Chris’s. The traditional beef stifado cooked in wine is superb as is all the rest of the food and as usual we eat and drink far too much and thoroughly enjoy ourselves.  Steve disgusts himself at one stage when we are comparing scars and his appendix one has disappeared under his fat belly.

ELOUNDA – 13

 

WEDNESDAY 31 DECEMBER – A very hot morning.  Steve exercises by swimming in the sea.  I reckon he burns off about 2 calories in his 2 minute swim.  Ayios Nikolaos is bustling with people in traditional costume and cakes are being taken everywhere, each one has a small gold coin inside.  In Elounda a small boat comes past with music playing and people partying on board, New Years eve seems to be getting off to an early start.  Children come by with a collection box and they sing a Greek calendar song for us to the accompaniment of 2 triangles and a banjo to be rewarded by a few coins.  Must be their version of carol singing.  To “The Waterfront” for 9.30pm.  Sit with Rosalie & Colin, Chris & Barrie, Denise & Mark, Mike & Rita and Helen & Ray.  Good buffet, music and company.  We celebrate the New Year 3 times, Greek, Dutch then British time.  Auld Lang Syne is performed each time.  It is a nice surprise to receive a phone call from the Scott’s and Evo’s.  Happy New Year everyone.  Return to the van at 5am, merry and worn out from dancing – a great evening.

ELOUNDA – 14

 

Well what a year 1997 was for us, a wedding, a grandson, retirement and visits to 17 countries – Tunisia, Singapore, Malaysia, France, Spain, Portugal, Belgium, Luxembourg, Switzerland, Italy, Slovenia, Hungary, Romania, Bulgaria, Turkey, Greece and not forgetting good old England. 

 

Since arriving in France on 7^th May we have travelled 9071 in this motorhome and put in 2621 litres of diesel (averaging 15 miles per gallon) and probably supped nearly as many litres of wine and beer!

MONDAY 1 DECEMBER 1997 – It’s a rainy day so we take a walk into the new part of Chania and find a man who repairs “Mitac” computers and another shop to check out the camcorder problems.  Reckon I am already starting to really like Chania. 

CHANIA, BY WALLS 2

 

TUESDAY 2 DECEMBER – We wake up to rain so doss around watching videos until it brightens up.  Steve is suddenly inspired to clean the van, as it is the dirtiest it has ever been.  Make use of a huge rainwater puddle and soon have it looking nice and clean. 

CHANIA, BY WALLS 3

 

WEDNESDAY 3 DECEMBER – A pleasant day so we stroll around the harbour then via the Venetian port to the town park complete with “mini zoo” (a bit of an exaggeration as all they have are budgies labelled up as small parrots).  Outside the park there is a lot of activity at a crossroads.  Road works have ground to a halt after ancient ruins have been discovered.  As we watch an archaeological team are there unearthing skeletons and these are photographed from every angle before being removed.  A man sits at a make shift desk cataloguing all the finds.  They only have a couple of days to excavate before the hole must be filled in to enable to road to be finished.  Explore the war museum and archives and check out the Samaria Hotel for my birthday.  Late afternoon we drive back to the car park behind the beach just west of Chania.  The park is very popular with joggers and cyclists and again locals are swimming in the sea.  We just sit out, read and play board games then feel guilty later.

BEACH JUST WEST OF CHANIA – 4 MILES

 

THURSDAY 4 DECEMBER – A nice sunny day so before reading and playing games we make ourselves take a long walk.

W CHANIA BEACH 2

 

FRIDAY 5 DECEMBER – My 41^st birthday and I hot day so I take a birthday swim in the sea (but not in my birthday suit).  I receive a very funny birthday card from Netty “How do you spot the most attractive man in a nudist colony? – Then inside it says, “He’s carrying 2 glasses and 12 doughnuts” and a picture showing how.  I chuckle for ages.  For my birthday Steve has booked us into the Samaria Hotel 16,000 Drs (£35) with a double bed and bathtub.  Early afternoon we check in and I’m soon to be found wallowing in the bath sipping champagne.  In the evening we go to an “authentic” Chinese restaurant with a Japanese name and Thai staff and have a super meal.  We follow this up with a visit to the cinema to see “Airforce One”.  Collect the camera and it comes as no surprise to find the bill is for the maximum of the possible prices quoted, 23,000Drs (£50).  Fit in another bath before bed.

CHANIA, SAMARIA HOTEL - 6 MILES  

 

SATURDAY 6 DECEMBER – A last soak in the bath before breakfast.  Pig out on the hotel buffet and promise ourselves to eat less and exercise more starting tomorrow!  The computer shop cannot get the part to mend my laptop and the cable has still not been returned from Athens.  We don’t want to hang around on the chance of it arriving on Monday so set out to explore more of the island.  The road east via Souda towards Rethimno is great but as soon as we turn off this and head south we are back on terrible winding mountain roads that take us through to Imbross Gorge.  After what seems like hours we emerge on the south coast at stop at Frangokastelo fort before continuing east to Plakias.  En route Steve is amused to see a football pitch full of sheep and reckons it must be Sheepfield Wednesdays home ground and maybe they are playing the Derby Rams (groan groan)!  In Plakias we see a strange vehicle parked at the back of the beach.  A sort of cross between an armoured car, truck, jeep and land rover.  It’s Bernard and Noa’s motorhome built by Bernard many years ago o travel round Africa.  He is German and Noa is from Israel but they converse in English.  He is now a writer but previously was the manager of Steppenwolf group and a star of a BBC programme “On the road again” featuring him in his van touring Africa.   We learn all this after inviting them into our motorhome for drinks so once again we have interesting company and a change to pick up travel tips.  The night is very windy and rainy, not good news as the south coast usually gets the best of the weather.

PLAKIAS BEACH – 68 MILES

 

SUNDAY 7 DECEMBER – It’s still windy but there is no rain so we take a walk along the promenade into town.  We can imagine that in summer it would be a busy little place but just now there is only one supermarket open.  Back in the van I am upset to see that we have trodden tar onto our new Turkish rugs. In he absence of proper cleaner the Bulgarian vodka does a good job and is probably a cheaper spirit to use.  Another wild night with wind and rain.

PLAKIAS BEACH 2

 

MONDAY 8 DECEMBER – Drive north and a much better road to Rethimno where we park just outside town.  Walk in to see Porta Goura, Rimondi fountain, Venetian loggia and to look inside the ancient fortress.  Lots of rain again but it still beats being at home in England working.  Phoned computer shop and they can’t get a cable from Athens but will return the faulty one and try and get an electrician to repair it.  We drive back towards Chania but turn off to Lake Kournas, the only lake on Crete.  It has stopped raining and we really appreciate our peaceful surrounding with the mountains reflected on the multi colour lake.  Put on he boiler and enjoy and nice hot bath, lotus style. 

LAKE KOURNAS

 

TUESDAY 9 DECEMBER – Rain during the night combined with last nights bath has left us with a condensation problem, as we have been unable to open the window or roof vents.  I make some Christmas decorations, paper chains cut out from the coloured pages of magazines and Blue Peter style lanterns.  Steve goes for a walk whilst I’m doing this, he thinks it’s all too sad and leaves me along with my Christmas music tape blaring away.  The restaurant opposite has allowed us to park up so we go in for a meal and a snack.  The menu in English advertises many cocktails including a “rasty neil”!  Our first few choices for food are unavailable to I settle on a chip omelette and Steve a mushroom omelette.  Shortly after the man comes out and says he is sorry but they only have enough eggs for one omelette.  Quick thinking Steve saves the day by bringing three eggs in from the van.  Two chip omelettes arrive so we guess that mushrooms are also off.  We are very surprised when a couple walk in and begin talking in English.  Steve and Laura are Americans and he works on the NATO base on Akrotiri whilst she is here on holiday from Florida.  Her Aunt has an RV and she is keen to know about ours so we invite them back to our motorhome for coffee after the meal.  Once again they turn out to be interesting company and we pick up information about John’s garage near Chania where they may be able to service the van.  Steve also tells us about lots of interesting caves in the area and offers to show us some.  There is no doubt in our minds that although we are seeing some great sights on our travels it is the people we are meeting who are making the trip so special. 

LAKE KOURNAS 2

 

WEDNESDAY 10 DECEMBER – Steve told us about a cave near Kournas but the Taverna with the maps is closed.  Settle for a visit to Aspera site with water cisterns and a Turkish fort.  Find John’s garage near Chania.  John is Greek but lived and worked in Toronto for 20 years.  Within minutes the oil and filter change are in progress and we are making arrangements for the rest of the service to be done once we have obtained the fuel filter and other required parts.  He only charges us the oil (very expensive in Greece at 1,500Drs (£3.30 litres) and we need 11 litres) as he says he just enjoys company and speaking English.   Spend the afternoon on our regular beach having a few hours sunbathing.  At the computer shop where we get the computer back but in order to trace the problem (which was due to wires connected incorrectly) they have disconnected nearly all the wires.  Originally you couldn’t charge the battery but now I’m worse off as it won’t work from the mains either.  American Steve lives on he west side of the Akrotiri Peninsula at Ag Onoufries, which has a blue flag beach where we can park.  Walk up to Steve’s house and sink a few beers before Steve & Laura come down to the motorhome for a meal.  Plan a caving expedition for tomorrow.  Laura goes back to Florida Saturday and offers to buy the parts we need for the RV and post them to Steve, as it will be the quickest and cheapest way for us to get them.  I try to get into the Christmas spirit by playing festive music and serving dinner on Christmas paper plates with matching serviettes, Steve gives up in despair. 

AG ONOUFRIES BEACH – 47 MILES

 

THURSDAY 11 DECEMBER – Steve calls to pick us up in his Trans Am sports car (the bath tub lotus positions comes in handy in the back seats).  Our first stop is the Goubernetou monastery, in the process of being renovated.  An interesting sight in the courtyard is an orange and lemon tree (the lemon tree has been grafted onto the orange tree) and this produces both types of fruit plus a third fruit the size of an orange but shape of a lemon.  Further on we park up and hike to the cave of the bear, named after a rock formation inside that looks like a bear climbing up into the holy bathing pool.  It’s a lovely warm day and the blue skies intensify the beautiful surroundings.  We continue down a hill and after quite a hike reach the ruins of the abandoned monastery of Katholiko.  The cave of John the hermit is here and it runs inwards for about 150 metres.  We are prepared with torches and old clothes and set out to explore.  Someone has marked the passage with a rope but we still feel like explores as we clamber through.  It’s very different to a tourist cave with floodlights and marked paths, much more exciting.  Reach the end where this is a small church complete with altar, icons, crosses and candles.  Rather spooky and we couldn’t imagine any Muslims climbing in and out 5 times a day to pray.  It’s warm in the cave and we feel quite tired by the time we emerge.  Explore the ruins of the monastery before setting of back.  Laura points out geep droppings and explains they are from a creature that is a cross of a goat and sheep and very common on the island.  Back at Steve’s we enjoy real American hamburgers whilst watching a video of American football, Minnesota Vikings (Steve’s team as he is from Minneapolis) V Green Bay Packers.  I enjoy the game so much that I spend most of the time on the porch sunbathing. 

AG ONOUFRIES BEACH – 2

 

FRIDAY 12 DECEMBER – In Iraklion we collect mail from the Amex offices.  It’s very exciting to pick up letters and cards from Mum, Mavis and Trevor, Netty and Carol.  The Christmas cards get stuck on the bathroom door to add to the festive flavour.  Look at a few of the tourist sites but it’s very busy in town and the sun is beckoning.  The tourist information office tells us there is an LPG station at Amoudara Beach.  Find the garage easily but by the time we have parked by the beach the clouds have rolled in.  Walk along the back of the beach to check out the 5* Candia Maris Hotel with a view to stopping there at Christmas.  It’s very nice with bowling, snooker, swimming pool and fitness centre but too expensive for us.  They are advertising a ten pin-bowling tournament tonight at 9pm and the receptionist says we can join in.  Walk back past the van to the French owned Continent Hypermarket where we decide to pick up one or two things.  There’s a great choice and prices are low so the basket rapidly fills up.  End up going back for the van so we can buy a trolley full of stuff.  They are offering lots of free samples, beer, wine, coco pops, biscuits, cheese and crackers, no need to cook tonight!  Wine is sold from the barrel.  By the side of it are empty 1 ½ litre plastic bottles and you can fill one for 390Drs (85p), after sampling them all to decide which one you like best.  Can’t decide so buy some of each.  Next door is a BHS and Marks & Spencers store but prices are much higher than in England.  Return to the Hotel Candia Maris for bowling but no one else shows up, not surprising as there are only 13 people staying in the whole hotel.  The Manager says we can stay and bowl and charges us at total of 600Drs (£13) for 3 games each instead of 900Drs (£20).  Steve wins our tournament but there are no prizes.

AMOUDARA BEACH – 97 MILES

 

SATURDAY 13 DECEMBER – Catch the local bus into Iraklion, 160Drs (35p) rather than drive, as the traffic is really bad.  No more mail at the Amex office but the man there says any large envelopes may be at the Post Office but this isn’t open until Monday.  Wander around and take in a few more sights but once again the heat tempts us back to the beach.  Back at the van the clouds are playing games with us so we return to the hypermarket for more wine and lots more beer as it has just come on special offer at 18p a can.  Following our shop we dine on French bread, pate and cheese washed down with some rose wine – could easily be back in France.  Steve tunes in the TV to catch he football match, Chelsea v Leeds, but with no sound.  His Greek is improving as he translates the scores flashed on the screen MΠAPMEΛEI versus NIOYKAΣTA = Barnsley versus Newcastle.

AMOUDARA BEACH 2

 

SUNDAY 14 DECEMBER – Back on tour we first visit the 4000 years old Minoan site of Knossos just south of Iraklian.  1500 Drs (£3.30) admission normal but free on Sundays as are all the sites in Greece.  There’s hardly anyone around.  It’s a very large impressive site with remains of the ancient palace, pillars, frescoes and staircases etc.  We follow this us by returning to Iraklion to check out the archaeological museum where treasures from Knossos are displayed and there’s also a wooden model of how the site would have looked.  As we need to be in Iraklion tomorrow we find a parking spot just East of the city at Amnisos Beach, near the airport. I sit and catch up with the diary and Steve goes out for a walk and returns with a gem.  He saw a nice hotel and went in to see if they were going to be open a Christmas.  Steve asked the receptionist but she only spoke Greek and German.  Fortunately Steve understood enough German to figure out that she was saying it was a hotel for woman i.e. a brothel – confirmed when he saw a girl in a flimsy dressing gown appear in the lobby.  He never did get an answer to his question!  Move along the beach to a spot Steve has found nearer to Iraklion.  Phone Claire and she tells us we are now the owners of a Bahamas International Business Company, bought on Barry’s advise to enable us to offset capital gains tax. Back in the van a scooter pulls up at about 9pm and the driver tells us he is locking he car park but we are welcome to stay provided we don’t want to leave before 10am.  We wanted to leave early tomorrow so end up returning to our original spot at the eastern end of Amnisos Beach

AMNISOS BEACH E – 28 MILES

 

MONDAY 15 DECEMBER – torrential rain, thunder and lightening wake me at 6am.  Steve is eventually woken (more likely by my fidgeting) but manages to doze on and off.  Finally get up at 8am to drive back to Iraklion.  The Amex office has now received a letter for us postmarked 21^st November and presumed by us to have been lost. Apparently anything A4 size or bigger takes much longer than the normal week to get here.  Sounds Greek to me but gives us hope for 2 more envelopes we are expecting.  Phone Claire and find out that David is in trouble yet again.  Last night he got drunk, overturned a car and ended up in a fight.  Discussing how to deal with it causes Steve and I to fall out and I storm ahead back to the van.  Steve loses sight of me and falls back on our rule that if we get split up we go back to the last place where we were together and wait.  All well and good except that I haven’t got split up.  Very much later he reappears at the van by which time I have calmed down but he has flared up.  Maybe we should go back to England to sort David out so drive to the airport but the only flights are via Athens and Heathrow, very expensive at £300 and few seats available.  Speak to Claire again and decide there is nothing we can do wherever we are.   Drive east and turn off to Malia archaeological site 800Drs (£1.65) but closed today.  Park up at the Sun Hotel on the beach where there is a huge sign promoting free beach, free parking, free showers and free toilet.  The hotel is closed and under normal circumstances we would be delighted finding such a spot but we are not in the mood to appreciate it. Steve takes a hike and I clean the van.  Steve returns and hits the whisky and I get stuck into a huge bar of Cadbury’s chocolate. – Strange how we both cope differently with stress!

MALIA, SUN HOTEL CAR PARK – 44 MILES

 

 

SATURDAY 15 NOVEMBER -  Barry sets about preparing the ingredients for the fondue but about 1 hour before they are due to arrive Cigdem phones to say Yavuz has to work until 11pm. This has happened a few times and Barry is none too happy but we settle down to enjoy the meal between the four of us. The fondue is excellent, a mixture of cheeses with mushrooms. Just as we are finishing the meal Cigdem phones to say Yavuz has arrived home and they are on the way over! This is one of the
things I would find hard to cope with if I lived in Turkey.

SARIYER 8

 

SUNDAY 16 NOVEMBER -  Wake up to a power cut due to the rain. Fortunately the power comes on late morning so the Sunday dinner goes ahead as planned. Barry has invited Alp, Gamze and Tunc to join us for a typical English Sunday dinner cooked by me.  As the smell wafts around the house we realise that we do miss some of the things in England.  Despite a lot of incorrect ingredients the Roast Beef, Potatoes, Yorkshire pudding and veg turn out well and the Apple Crumble soon disappears.  Alp, Gamze and Tunc leave late afternoon and we decide to doss English style whilst watching TV. or to be precise Fools and Horses on video. The viewing is short lived as the power soon goes off again. Perhaps this explains the population explosion in Turkey. 

SARIYER 9

 

MONDAY 17 NOVEMBER -  We leave Steve at home to await delivery of the U.P.S. parcel with the circuit board whilst we head into town to do a few jobs. Collect my computer and then pick up Cigdem to take her to the local hospital to have her in growing toenail treated. It is a private hospital and the service is quick . She hobbles out in pain after only half an hour and we drop her straight back at work. No such thing as time off work sick in Turkey. Barry takes his computer to another company
where we are made most welcome and share a gateau that is being handed round the office to
celebrate someone’s 30th wedding anniversary. The office girl tells me she can't understand anyone
being married so long and that 10 years is long enough after which time you should change partners -
she then mentions that it is her 10th anniversary this year! They work for over 2 hours working on Barry's computer then refuse to accept any payment at all - what a contrast to the first firm who "nicked" part of his computer and charged him for the privilege. On the way back Cicek makes a left turn and is flagged down by the Police for ignoring the no left turn sign. The officer inspects her papers and gets his book out to record the offence and issue a  3.300.000TL (£11) fixed fine. Cicek quickly asks Barry for some money and steps out of the car to have a quiet word mentioning she already has points on her license and doesn't want any more. The deft palming of 1,000,OOOTL (£3.30) does the trick and the official notebook goes away and so do we!

SARIYER 10

 

TUESDAY 18 NOVEMBER -  Armed with the new generator circuit board we head to the garage to get it fixed. The board doesn't solve the problem merely eliminates it from the equation so they start looking for other things. It seems to us that anyone who walks past the garage gets called in for an opinion as we have never seen so many people on the job. Time drags by and we are offered a kebab or doner for lunch. Cicek is with us and we ask for three doners but they refuse to take any money from us.  The man says it is his garage and insists we don't pay. Ten minutes later there is a knock on the van door and a lad passes in a tray with three plates of doner meat in gravy, three plates of pitta bread, three Pepsi Colas and a plate full of salad - amazing. A little later we are pleased to find the problem has been found - back in Italy we had an oil and filter change on the generator and it transpires that they put the wrong oil in.  It was too viscose and has blocked the filter and the fuel pump causing the generator to cease up. A quick oil and filter change and it is working properly - the bad news being that although we can return the circuit board but have wasted about £40 in unnecessary postage. The good news is that the garage bill for is only 5,000,OOOT1 (£17) in total, that’s for 6 hours today plus the time on our previous visit.  We can’t believe it so Cicek tips a couple of the lads an extra 1,000,000TL (£3.30) each. We leave the bikes behind as one of the men at the garage has told us he can repair the puncture and fix the brakes for us to collect tomorrow. Slowly but surely we are getting things done but Barry’s car will have to wait till tomorrow as the garage were too busy to deal with it today.  A bad evening for Barry & Cicek with lots of phone calls from England about Barry’s Mum’s possible visit.

SARIYER 11

 

WEDNESDAY 19 NOVEMBER -  Last chance for tying up loose ends before leaving. Steve & I go off on our own to collect the bikes from the man at the generator repair shop. We are greeted like long lost friends and the man asks for our address in England before we leave (perhaps we have only paid a
deposit on the work and he is going to send us a bill!). The bikes now have brakes that work and the
flat tyre has been fixed. The weather is definitely changing with drizzle and cold convincing us that
Crete must be warmer and we should press on. Steve’s back is still not 100% or maybe he has just got
to like his morning and evening back massage too much.  If you would like to send us a letter (the AMEX offices can't accept packages so save the goodies) you can write to us (listing the surname first and underlining it) at:

AMEX Iraklion (Crete): c/o Adamis Tours, Avgoustou 23, PO Box 1031. Crete. Greece.
We should be able to collect mail from there until 20th January.

We all go to Alps for an evening meal.

SARIYER 12

 

THURSDAY 20 NOVEMBER -  A quick departure from Barry’s. It would seem that there is a
spot of family trouble. Cicek stayed with Barry’s parents in England when she was
studying and it seems that she returned to Turkey and was followed by Barry who didn't
bother to tell anyone what was going on - as in not his wife, parents or family! His Mum
& Dad didn't know where he was or that he was planning to marry Cicek.  Cicek’s Dad has now
been in touch with them and paid for Barry’s Mum to fly over, and so we have been
evicted. The photos that Claire sent of Daniel have arrived today and he is growing fast -
can't wait to see them all in January. It's a miserable day, cold and rainy and very much
like England in November so it is definitely time for us to head to warmer climes. Leave
Istanbul around 11.30am but there’s a problem getting petrol along the motorway as all the
stations are Turk Petrol.  Their fuel is renowned for being dirty and we don’t want to risk putting it into our almost empty tank.  We finally have to stop and put the jerry can in,  then
turn off the motorway into a village where thankfully they are selling Total petrol. On to
the Turkish/Bulgarian border where we park overnight in no mans land.  It is
getting dark and we should get through the Bulgarian border quickly in the morning
before the queues build up.

TURKEY/BULGARIAN BORDER NEAR KIPIKULE – 177 MILES

 

FRIDAY 21 NOVEMBER -  Big mistake again staying in no mans land as the border doesn't open until 8.00am and the first 4 foreign vehicles through are pulled to one side. We have to follow a Swiss,
Austrian and Hungarian car to a big workshop with inspection pits. The cars go in first and the contents are COMPLETELY emptied onto huge trolleys whilst men poke around between the doors skins and underneath the vehicles. My heart sinks at the thought of a couple of days stay here whilst we empty everything of ours out and load it back up. We move forward into the hanger and 4 customs men come on board whilst Steve has to open all the outside lockers for inspection.  Someone climbs on the roof whilst others look underneath. They are very reasonable and just look in all the cupboards, ask how much the van cost and have a general nosy. They ignore our excess duty free 2 litres
of Scotch and 2 litres of liqueurs (bought at the border duty free last night at ridiculously low prices) and it isn't too long before we are on our way - but not before being escorted back to the passport
control so that we can drive past the booth to pay $4 vehicle disinfection and $ 1 road tax to enter BULGARIA. We tank up with fuel at around 20p a litre and stock up on reasonable wine at $1 and quality wine $1.50, Champagne $1, Baileys $2, Peach Schnapps $2, Large Beers 3 for $1 and a
king sized quilt with sheet and pillowcases for DM20 (£7.25). The quilt is for our
forthcoming visitors, the booze may not last that long! We drive through the local town
of Svilengrad and on to the Bulgarian/Greek border. Into GREECE following a quick border crossing and I make another mistake at a hole in the wall machines in the first Greek town. I already
have 10 x 1,000 drachma notes that I bought in England for £22 (about 450 drachma to
£1) so to draw £100 I need about 4 times this but will round it up to 50,000 drachma. My first attempt produces 5 notes that look like the ones I already have (giving me a total of £11) so I try again and go for the largest amount available (usually around £100). Back in the van I notice that
the notes I have drawn are the same size and almost the same colour as the 1,000
notes but are in fact 10,000 drachma each so I have now drawn nearly £600 worth - oops. Think
we had better pay for the ferry crossing in cash and not on the credit card. The roads are
noticeably better than all the Eastern European countries and we can drive a little faster
without being deafened by rattles or things falling out of cupboards. Our finally resting
stop for the night is West of Alexandopoulis and Komotini near a place called Lagos where there is a haven for rare birds in the lake nearby. A petrol station on the side
road has a parking sign and the owner confirms that we are welcome to stay overnight.

KOMOTINI – 177 MILES

 

SATURDAY 22 NOVEMBER -  A much warmer and quieter night than at the border and we
awake refreshed and to a bit of sunshine. Drive into the next town of Xanthi for the
Saturday market but can't park so stop at a shop for bread etc and then drive on to
Halkidiki peninsula and to a small village called Ouranopoli near Mount Athos. This is
an area of monasteries for men only and even all the farm animals are
male. I have read that we can take a boat trip from Ouranopoli around the peninsula to
get glimpses of most of the buildings but as this is out of season we have to wait until
tomorrow to see if a tour booked for 10.30 turns up so that we can join them. We park
on a dirt track at the top of the cliff with wonderful views out to sea and across to some
small islands - as good as a 5 star hotel view any day. Walking around the village we are
tempted to stop for Steve to have a beer and me to sample Retsina (a famous very dry
Greek wine flavoured with pine) from the barrel. Prices are much higher than we have
been used to, a large beer 600dr (£1.35) and wine 700dr (£1.55) but the owner only wants
1000dr (£2.20) in total when we come to pay. The village is geared for German tourists and this
could explain the higher than expected prices. My German has had to resurface to
replace Turkish as our Greek is very poor. We are finding their language very confusing,  to say yes
you nod your head side to side and say Neh and for No you bob your head up and down
and say Okhee! I am beginning to look like a nodding dog already as I have to keep
changing the action.

OURANOPOLI – 153 MILES

 

SUNDAY 23 NOVEMBER -  A boat leaves at 9.30 with about 50 men bound to the
Monasteries for a stay of up to 4 days. They are only allowed to stay for one night at any
place and it’s often a full days walk to the next one. Steve is still tempted by
the chance of beautiful scenery and no women for 4 days - can't think why. We head down to the port but the trip does not arrive at 10.30 nor 11.00 and we are just about
to give up when at 12.00 a coach load of 50 Germans roll up. Well worth waiting for as
we get to view a number of the monasteries on Mount Athos. The Russian monastery has
the second largest bell in the world and many of the others have special features and all
look spectacular in their mountainside settings. A much better trip than the ones we took
in Turkey in terms of views.

OURANOPILI 2

 

MONDAY 24 NOVEMBER -  We drive to Thessalonika and are stunned to see not only a
Motorcaravan parked in the Exhibition Centre car park but an English one at that.
Malcolm and Claire left England in October and plan to travel around Greece and then
head to Nordkapp (the northern most point of Norway where you can see the midnight
sun) for 25 June next year. They have previously had a 16-month trip around Europe but returned to teaching.  Malcolm has since been medically retired so now they travel for most of the year.  The car park is heaving but we park nearby and on their recommendation join them to visit the Mount Athos exhibition 2000dr (£4). It is great for us as it shows the treasures from the monasteries of Athos and having visited the area yesterday is more meaningful. Obviously not meaningful enough as we view all the exhibition in just over 1 hour, then visit the Archaeology Museum 1500dr (£3), walk through the town and check out ferries at the Port before returning to the van.  Claire and Malcolm return after over 6 hours at the Mount Athos exhibition and still haven’t seen it all.  By evening the car park is almost empty and it’s easy for us to get on.  We invite them for a drink in the evening and spend a pleasant few hours exchanging travel tips.

THESSALONIKA, EXHIBITION CENTRE CAR PARK – 84 MILES

 

TUESDAY 25 NOVEMBER - Exercise in the form of a walk around the ancient walls of
Thessalonika and with special permission from the Turkish embassy to view inside

the house where Ataturk was born. We stumble upon a monastery, which is very
new and modern followed shortly by one down some back alleys that is tiny and ancient.
Next stop the local cathedral, the largest in Greece and unusual in that it has
been destroyed many times but the rebuild has always retained any of the remaining
features. The square further along is being excavated for ancient ruins and it seems that
underneath the town there are many more but they are unable to get to them as there are
buildings over the top, meanwhile all open land is being inspected. The 38th International film
festival is on at the moment and we want watch the 3.30pm film.  The kill time we take a slow Chinese meal.  The food is excellent and unusually the restaurant has an open kitchen where you can see your meal being prepared.  The firm is very unusual and we find it strange to hear everyone clapping at the end. We muck in together to prepare an evening meal to share with Malcolm and Claire’s in their motorhome.  We leave with tentative plans to meet up either on Crete or in Norway next midsummer!

THESSALONIKA 2

 

WEDNESDAY 26 NOVEMBER – Leave the car park at 8am before we get blocked in.  Try to find LPG in Thessalonica but with no success and we get quite lost.  Eventually find our way out and head west to the village of Edhessa, famous for it's streams and waterfalls. Spend a very pleasant hour just wandering around the town and taking in the sights before driving along side Lake Vegoritoha and over the mountains to Kastoria. This is the main centre for fur coat making with skins shipped in from Canada. The town is on a peninsula going into Lake Kastoria and from the shores you can see many rare birds.  We park on the lakeshore and await the morning viewing.

KASTORIA – 150 MILES

 

THURSDAY 27 NOVEMBER - Driving around the lakeside we do see lots and lots of birds.  Shortly after we are flagged down by Father Gabriel who invites us to look at his
church and monastery.  He invites us in to his kitchen along with a local
fisherman. We are served typical Greek coffee - extremely strong and with lots of coffee grinds in the bottom.  It’s very hard to drink as the grinds get stuck in your throat.  Fortunately the fisherman spots our plights and reminds Father Gabriel that he has forgotten to provide us with a glass of water to wash it down.  Father Gabriel tells us we could have camped by the church last night as he provides free parking and electricity to campers in summer but is actually open all year round. The
Kastoria local folklore museum is excellent and housed in an old mansion. The door opening
rings a bell and an old guy comes out and asks us where we are from and then takes a
paper with information in our language. He shows us round and reads the phonetic
details from his sheet. It is one of the nicest museums we have been to, very friendly,
quiet, with a fascinating guide and interesting displays. Our drive south takes us over yet more
mountain passes to the area of the Meteora monasteries. This is a little like Cappadocia
in Turkey with strange rock formation but even bigger rocks with the buildings perched
precariously on top. We visit Roussanou and Megalou Meteorou the latter being the best.
The frescoes in the church are very strange with violent scenes of grisly martyrdom's.
Boiling alive, beheading, spearing and other forms of torture predominate.  There is a
chattel with all the skulls of previous monks on the shelves and exhibits in the other
rooms.  We planned to stay overnight on the car park but by 5pm the mist is
rolling in and it is very cold so we drive back down the mountain then stop on a side road just west of Trikala.

TRIKALA – 113 MILES

 

FRIDAY 28 NOVEMBER – We’ve had enough cool weather so make a beeline for Athens and the ferry to Crete. Stop to look at the ancient sit of Glas but it is virtually non-existent.  The road to Athens is good but traffic heavy.  The final approach to Pireas harbour through Athens is quite hair raising with locals thinking nothing of stopping on the dual carriageway (in the traffic lane) and jumping out for a wee.  The traffic is horrendous and there is no real ring road around Athens so we plough on finding almost no signs for the port.  Make it to the port at about 4pm.  We shop around for ferry prices and end up on the 8.00pm Anek lines ferry to Chania. 4300dr pp (£8.60) + 40,000dr (£80) for the motorhome.  The ferry is very nice and we choose airline type seats and try get some sleep on the 10-hour crossing – no chance.  Greeks seem unable to whisper and all conversations are shouted.  The ones who sleep snore loudly and the room is too hot for comfort. 

FERRY ATHENS TO CRETE – 231 MILES

 

SATURDAY 29 NOVEMBER – Dock on CRETE in Chania at 6am in the middle of a bad storm with thunder and lightening.  Fortunately we drive off the ferry and immediately find a place to park in the docks.  After a couple of hours sleep we head west through Chania town to Galatas and find one of only two LPG stations on the island.  Continuing west through Kastelli we pass some superb beaches and also the ancient town of Falasarna, which is in the process of being excavated.  The guidebook recommends a driving circuit round the west coast and back inland.  The views are spectacular and the mountain passes likewise.  The local olive trees fill the hillsides with mesh underneath to catch the crops.  There are huge banks of standpipes with hoses running off in all directions.  We pass through many “invisible” villages where we see the start and end of village signs but no houses only to turn a hair pin bend and look back to see the houses below the road clinging precariously to the rock sides.  The road gets very narrow through the villages until finally in the village of Kefali we cannot proceed because lorries are parked up blocking the road.  They are being loaded with fertiliser and it looks like a long job so we decided to park up for the night.  There is space by the local restaurant where the owner offers us electricity.  Steve is a happy bunny as this means he can watch the live Everton V Tottenham match on TV.  He’s even happier still when he hears that Wolves beat QPR and Stoke lose (Dave Spooner will not be amused).  In the restaurant the beers are more reasonable at 300drs (60p) but we spend the same amount and drink twice the quantity.  We also eat at the restaurant and have the same dish that the owner and his wife are eating.  The village shop sells used plastic pop bottles filled with local spirit or wine and we buy some to try. 

KEFALI – 70 MILES

 

SUNDAY 30 NOVEMBER – We are quite shocked when the restaurant man charges us £4.50 for the electricity.  Having never paid more than £1 anywhere for electric and spent £4 for a full campsite with electric and showers in Turkey we are non-too pleased.  Especially annoying as we made a point of eating and drinking in the restaurant when we needn’t have.  We don’t normally ask the price before hand as it makes us seem a bit rude and inhospitable but maybe in Greece we should be doing.  Complete the circuit drive and find a good car park behind a beach just west of Chania.  Spend some time on the beach debating whether to join a few locals swimming in the sea but the decisions is made for us when it clouds over.  We move on to another good spot by the walls of the ancient city of Chania and with a view over the ocean.  Our exploratory stroll takes us past an old English ambulance that has been roughly converted into a camper van.  The owner looks pretty scruffy but introduces himself as Thomas McGrath from Ireland.  We chat a bit and invite him to join us in our van for a drink in the evening.  Continue our walk around the harbour, which is very pretty with busy pavement cafes surrounding it .  A nearby archaeological museum is open and has free admission on Sunday so we take a look.  Down a back street we find a launderette and not only that but it is open so we return to the van and I dispatch Steve with two backs full of dirty washing.  Just after Steve leaves the car park is invited by a coach load of very smart marines.  They climb off the bus then sit around smoking and chatting until a jeep arrives with an army band.  They proceed to line up in formation then parade along the sea front.  Steve gets back just before Thomas drives up in his ambulance having been moved to make way for the parade.  He comes over clutching cans of beer and a homemade wooden miniature chest of drawers type storage box. He makes these boxes and “tries” to sell them but the carpentry leaves a lot to be desired.  He’s brought one over as a Christmas present for us, what a lovely gesture.  Spend a delightful evening listening to his life story, often very sad as his girlfriend was blown up and killed outside his house.  He was working undercover for the British forces and eventually had to leave.  He then worked in the Middle East and had a job walking backwards guiding a tarmac machine (for which he had to be drunk each day to pluck up he courage to do the job as one slip and he would have been run over).  He has us in fits of laughter when he sys a mate grabbed his “water” flask for a drink but spat it out when he realised it was alcohol, the liquid went towards the fire and produced a flame thrower effect.  What a wonderful character. 

CHANIA – 40 MILES

 

SATURDAY 1 NOVEMBER 1997 - The weather is still good so we decide to drive back into the village to Mount Olympus beach. Set off along the dirt track towards the village and as we pass
a lorry parked on the opposite side our rear tyre rubs against a rock and bursts. Steve sets to work
removing the spare whilst I study the instruction books. The problems start straight away as the
wheel brace doesn't fit the bolts that hold the spare tyre in place but the adjustable spanner does the
trick eventually. Problem number two is that the hydraulic jack supplied with the van isn't strong
enough to lift it up. By this time we have gathered a crowd of helpful villagers and one of them volunteers to go off and find a stronger lorry jack.  Steve suggests they take one of our bikes and we then notice that Steve’s bike also has a puncture!  Whilst removing the van tyre the thread on one of the nuts fails and we have to replace the wheel with only 7 of the 8 nuts. We eventually finish about 1
hour later and decide to skip the beach and head for the nearest big town to pick up a new tyre because if we don't get one today everywhere will be closed until Monday. The first town is Kemer and they
don't have one but send us on to the very big town of Antalya. We eventually find the area of town
with the tyre and car repair shops (they have a very good system in Turkey of having areas on the
outskirts of town with all the same trades clustered together) but no one can supply the correct size
and we are advised to go on to Konya. During this time we suddenly remember that the new tyre needs the pressure checking and we also need a new nut so stop at the small town of Serik. As we pull onto the forecourt of a tyre shop the van is mobbed by locals all trying to peer inside - they have never seen
anything like a motorcaravan before. The lads at the garage are very helpful and check the pressure
and "adapt" a nut to fit. Decide that it will be too far to drive to Konya today so turn off to the
ancient town of Side. There is a nice car park where we think we can stay overnight so we leave the
van and take a walk around. Side is a very strange Roman town as the old city was so spread out
that over the years the newer buildings have filled in the gaps and it is now all mixed together but still very attractive. We return to the van but can hardly see it for flies - the local tip is just over the dunes behind the car park and this is where the flies are coming from.  There is no way we can stay so quickly jump in and drive off with the flies attached for about 5 miles. Our resting place for the night is by the beach at Sorgun, a resort mainly for Germans with 5 star Hotels and time-share complexes. Steve just happens to notice that the local restaurant is showing English football so comes racing back to the van to tempt me to a meal out! On arrival at the restaurant there is another channel on the TV. and the man shows us that the football has been scrambled after the first 5 minutes! We decide to stay and have a nice but more expensive meal than usual.

SORGUN BEACH – 116 MILES

 

SUNDAY 2 NOVEMBER - The weather is good and the car tyre shops will be closed today so nothing for it but to sunbathe on the beach and swim in the sea - what a hard life.  Lunch comprises red wine, crackers and garlic cheese spread.  We walk along the beach and check out some of the hotels.  Call for a drink at a bar and end up staying all evening.  Very windy in the night with some rain.

SORGUN  BEACH 2

 

MONDAY 3 NOVEMBER - Set off for Konya and drive over the mountains via Akseki. En route we
encounter lots of herds of black goats along the road. Same story with the tyre in Konya and we
conclude that it is an American size and not available in Turkey but will give Barry in Istanbul a ring
to see if he can verify this. We are getting very good at finding the industrial areas of towns and our
sign language on tyre problems is brilliant now. Manage to phone Claire and hear that she has booked a flight to Athens on 27^th to come and visit us.  From Konya we head towards Aksaray stopping at
Sultanhani to see the Kervansaray. This is an old travellers Inn where people used to stay free of
charge for up to three days with their animals. There are very high walls on the outside and a Mosque
inside meaning that they had full security and no need to leave until ready to continue their journey.
As soon as we pull up in the van we are mobbed by local children trying to sell us things and it
is a bit overpowering. When we come out they approach us again and show us "tricks" of putting burning matches in their mouths. We do our best to ignore them but it isn't very nice. Travelling along we notice a predominance of a root crop that loos like beet.  Turning off for Ihlara the scenery changes with fantastic rock formations. Our final stop for the night is in Ihlara village ready for our hike into Ihlara Valley tomorrow. The friendly Anatolya Pansiyon provides parking, electric and hot showers for just over £2. We eat at their restaurant and try Sac Kavurma, a type of meat and vegetable cooked and served in a wok and very nice too.

IHLARA – 276 MILES

 

TUESDAY 4 NOVEMBER - A very cold night although the electric heater kept us warm. A nice bright morning for our hike so we drive to the head of the gorge at Belisirma, an exceptionally beautiful village with very old flat roofed houses mixed with the cave houses. The walk along the valley reveals lots of rock churches with frescoes, troglodyte caves and some spectacular scenery. We
return down the opposite side of the valley having crossed the stream by a rickety old bridge. The
last part of the walk back takes us past the "front doors" of the house caves and it is like living in
Bedrock although we do notice that some of them had satellite dishes up! Walking down
through the village to the bridge at the bottom we pass a house with lots of sacks of
potatoes outside. We asked to buy 1 Kilo and they say yes but then refuse to take any money. We
have been told that the restaurants here serve very good and cheap fresh fish so we end up in a log
cabin around a log fire eating a plate of four small bass fish with rice, tomato, peppers and onions
followed by fresh crusty bread and goats cheese. We drink 2 beers each but when the bill came the
beers were 250.000TL (90p) each and Steve passes comment that the most we have paid before is 200,OOOTL (65p) so the price is immediately dropped and the full bill rounded down to 2,000,OOOTL (£6.50).  Back to the same place as last night and we are just hooking up to the electric but can’t find the adapter.  It would seem that he left it on the rear bumper this morning and drove off with it there. A walk up the road reveals nothing so we have to make do with an English plug into an ordinary adapter but this will be possible in rain.  A couple of British motorbikes pull up, Sarah and Andy from Altringham have travelled overland a similar route to us. They confirm that visas for Syria are not available in Ankara and we spend the evening in the bar exchanging travel information. Feel very sorry for them in their tents as it is cold again but they refuse an offer to camp inside the Hostel as they are tough and have camped in -20 deg before  - and you thought we were crazy.  Spend the evening in the bar with them, drinking and playing backgammon.

IHLARA  - 7 MILES

 

WEDNESDAY 5 NOVEMBER -  A super day starting off with a visit to Derinkuyu underground city. 8 levels are open to the public and you can see where up to 30,000 people have been accommodated. There are churches, wineries and wells amongst the maze of tunnels and staircases. Next, Uchisar and our first real view of Cappadocia. What a sight, the village has a castle carved out of a 60 metre high rock and from the top of this you get a superb view of the valleys around with the fairy chimneys. This region is famous for the strange rock formations made by volcanic rock eroded over the years. Some areas look like sand dunes, some like bee hives and others like chimneys. The colours are fantastic - pinks, purples, gold, grey, white and others in-between. The valley sides have lots of different shapes and with the rocks in the bottom make a unique sight that defies words.  Goreme village has hotels and restaurants actually in the fairy chimneys and an open-air museum where you can go into the rock churches with unusual frescoes. Every one is different and all interesting. It's the sort of place you can stare at forever and not get bored. We find a campsite in the valley from where we see a spectacular sunset.  A walk into the village rewards us with a super meal - Cream of tomato soup with cheese, Pepper steak, chips, salad, rice, garlic bread rounded off with mixed melon at £2.60 a head. Don't think we will ever get used to the prices in England again - even the admission prices to museums etc are cheap at around £1 each. We have noticed that the exchange rate has gone up again in our favour and we now get 305.000TL to £ instead of255,OOOTL when we arrived in August.

GOREME CAMPSITE – 66 MILES

 

THURSDAY 6 NOVEMBER -  A drive further down the Goreme valley reveals the site of the Zelve Monastic Valley. We are the first visitors of the day and have the place to ourselves. The area is made up of three valleys with churches, homes and a monastery carved into the rocks. A tunnel cut through the rock links two of these valleys. Our guidebook warns us to take a torch and wear old clothes for exploring. Climbing up steps – sometimes natural and occasionally man made metal ones accesses the buildings and tunnels, then the fun starts. The rocks are carved with tunnels at 45deg angles and holes that you have to drop down through to explore the rooms. The whole thing
is like a huge maze and you have to look for the ancient hand and footholds to know where to go. All
well and good until we decide to take the tunnel across to the next valley.  The book warns us that we will need nerves of steel and a head for heights but undeterred we followed the sign to the entrance.
Inside the first cave the only exit is up a 45deg shaft with a passageway visible at the top.
I don't like the look of it but Steve proceeds to do a recce with a torch in his mouth and me staying
below with the other things. As I video his ascent I pan round to see that below the shaft Steve is
climbing there is a huge pit about 7 foot deep, as I turn round to warn him he starts to slip and not
knowing about the pit jumps backwards to safety or not as the case may be. Having hit the back wall
of the shaft with his head he proceeds to bang all the walls around whilst plummeting down the shaft and into the pit, followed by deathly silence from him and screams from me. What seems like ages later but is only seconds he starts groaning.  I'm nearly hysterical by this time unable to believe that he isn't seriously injured. He manages to tell me that he thinks he is very badly winded and has a few cuts but doesn't think anything is broken. After quite some time he is able to stand up but now we have a problem getting him out of the pit as he is in agony and can hardly breathe. I leave the cave and shout for help but there is no one around and it is about half an hour walk back to the entrance of the
museum. We decide that I will throw some rocks into the pit to make steps and eventually drag
him out covered in mud, moaning and struggling to breathe. It seems that his thick padded coat has
protected him a lot as this is full of gashes but underneath he is uncut apart from the side of one hand
with a deep graze. We hobble back to the van where I do my best to make him comfortable with
a massage, hot drinks etc and as he just wants to be left alone quietly to rest the obvious solution is
for me to go back and VERY CAREFULLY explore the other valleys and take photos for Steve to
see. Return to Goreme via Avenos then through the Rose Valley to Urgup. In Goreme we
check into the Saksagan Hotel 3,000,000TL (£10 including breakfast).  Take a double room with bathtub, 24-hour hot water and heating.  Steve once bathed and massaged sends me out to explore the village. (I think it is preferable to having me in the room trying to be quiet!). On returning to the room he feels just about fit enough to hobble to the restaurant over the road where we have an even better meal than last night - Spicy Tomato Soup, Cheese spring rolls, Turkish Goulash or Spaghetti Bolognaise, Chocolate or Rice pudding and a drink of tea, coffee, soft drink or wine all for only £3 a head, excellent value and nice candlelit surroundings. Another bath and massage and Steve is ready for bed again.

GOREME, SAKSAGAN HOTEL – 26 MILES

 

FRIDAY 7 NOVEMBER -  Steve is not too bad and says he would prefer to head on back to Istanbul
than stay another night in Goreme. We share the driving to Ankara via Aksaray.  Take the by pass round the city and avoid the disgusting smog hanging over the city centre.  Stop at Nallihan where we park for the night at a petrol station. Following another lovely day with sun and blue skies we get the very cold night - sorry very very cold night - with me sleeping with my hat on as the central heating for the van has frozen up. Lesson learnt, on cold nights leave the heating on low.

NALLIHAN, PETROL STATION – 290 MILES

 

SATURDAY  8 NOVEMBER - There is a severe frost so we drive off in our nightclothes and stop
when the van has warmed up. The road through the mountains is poor and very twisty.  It's a nice to approach Istanbul knowing that Barry and Cicek are there and we can enjoy good company and surroundings for a few days. We arrive at 2.15pm in glorious sunshine having passed a thermometer showing 25deg. It's lovely to see Barry and Cicek again and we spend time comparing notes on their honeymoon, a shorter version of the tour we have done but in 4 and 5 star hotels Cicek prepares a traditional Turkish meal for us and we end the evening by watching our home video - this causes Cicek great amusement as I call one of the villages Yavas and now find out that it means slowly in Turkish and was simply a warning sign and not the town name! The video of Steve falling at Zelve is a bit disappointing and not up to Jeremy Beadle standard -1 stopped recording too soon in my haste to check on him. Steve feels even worse after watching it.

ISTANBUL, SARIYER – 188 MILES

 

SUNDAY 9 NOVEMBER - Yet another hot day - quite unusual for Istanbul at this time of year. I retrieve the shorts and T Shirts from the suitcases having thought they would be packed away until spring. The Barbecue has to be dusted down to cook the fresh fish that Barry buys from the local village.

SARIYER 2

 

MONDAY 10 NOVEMBER -  Cicek leaves early to go to University to take an exam. In Turkey you can leave college and just go back to take exams over an extended period of time. She returns later
having been given the wrong date. With Cicek’s help we manage to locate a Goodyear tyre of the
correct size on the Asian side of Istanbul. (Ours is Michelin but everyone says it is not available in our
size in Europe). Decide to drive over to collect it and combine the trip with a shop at Carrefours. On
the way Steve notices a huge Pirelli sign and Barry skilfully cuts across four lanes of traffic to check it out. The open bonnet and hazard warnings lights seem to help us to park in the main road.  It
turns out that the garage deal with all makes and can get the "unavailable in Europe" Michelin tyre in
a couple of days. At £130 I think we will be on a bread and jam diet for the next week. Steve’s back
is slightly worse after our shopping trip (I told him not to put so much beer in but at 12p a can he
couldn't resist) also the bank balance has taken a battering but as we don't know what we are up
against in Greece we think it is better to stock up on the things we know to be cheap in Turkey.

SARIYER 3

 

TUESDAY 11 NOVEMBER -  Steve is not at all well this morning - so bad in fact that he agrees to take some tablets. I massage his back with a special mixture of Indian Oils and leave him covered up in bed smelling like a mild Curry. Spend some time with Barry making adjustments to the computer but I still get very baffled, think I would have had more benefit from doing a night school course in
Computer Studies rather than the Urdu which it looks like I won't need. We visit a computer shop in
Mecidiyekoy where I arrange for a few problems with mine to be looked at and Barry leaves his so that the fax can be repaired. The man asks us to return in a couple of hours so knowing Turkish hours we go for a very nice lunch at Café Season followed by the cinema in Sisli before collecting Barry’s computer.

SARIYER 4

 

WEDNESDAY 12 NOVEMBER -  Barry’s computer is worse than before and it transpires that the shop have swapped a very expensive chip with a cheap one which will be very difficult to prove! Nice hot sunny day again - can't believe it for the time of year. Steve is still not so good so he stays at home while Cicek and I go and collect her Mum to come and watch the Wedding video. No one else has a video so every time someone comes we have to watch the Wedding film again, it's nice in a way as I know that they appreciate it.

SARIYER 5

 

THURSDAY 13 NOVEMBER - Yes it's the 13th and not a good day. Firstly we waste most of the morning visiting electrical and then L.P.G. specialists to finally establish that the problem with the Generator is a faulty circuit board. This turns out to only be available from the U.K. at £155.98 and we must have one. Set off into Istanbul with Barry & Cicek in the car and the first shock (to us but not to Barry and Cicek) is to see a car coming towards us the wrong way up a dual carriageway! Our next shock is a car running into the back of us and pushing us into the car in front and that car into the next one. Fortunately no one is hurt and the car in front of us drives off as it is old and battered anyway. The car that hit us was an expensive Mercedes and the driver offers Barry 10,000,OOOTL (£33) for the repairs but Cicek says she would rather go to her Dads garage.  We all drive there and the price quoted for the repair is 45.000.000TL (£150). The man hands the cash over and disappears. Apparently if you want to put an insurance claim in the Police have to be called out which takes absolutely ages and more often than not the people sort it out themselves. Collect the new tyre to replace our punctured one £130 and then decide that rather than tempt fate and carry on into Istanbul we would return to Sariyer for a "fish butty" at the quay. The place is closed!

SARIYER 6

 

FRIDAY 14 NOVEMBER -  Drop the car at the garage for repairs and continue into Istanbul on the local bus. It’s very cheap and a good service with a bus about every 2 minutes. Went to the German
embassy for Cicek to get a visa application for their Christmas trip to visit Barry's brother in Germany. 
For Turkish people to leave and visit any other country they have to have a visa and answer lots of
questions about finance etc. Take coffee at the Pera Palas then we go to an auction-viewing restaurant for a large, long Meze style lunch  Visit the cinema to see “Volcano”.  Return by bus to Yavuz and Cigdems to wait for Yavuz to come back from work with the car. He returns very late and then insists we wait while he eats his tea and then comes in for a chat. Barry invites them for a fondue tomorrow night.

SARIYER 7

 

 

 

THURSDAY 16 OCTOBER – Quite heavy rain in the night so the boat departure is delayed until tomorrow.  Roy & Sarah join us for breakfast in the van, hamburgers, baked beans and scrambled eggs.  It brightens up late morning so we drive around the coast and over the hills to Selimye to see Tuncay and En Gin at Summerhouse Bar.  Then on further to Bozburun.  The weather is not brilliant so when I see a launderette where I can get my clothes washed and dried I jump at the chance.  With 2 hours to kill Steve opts for a hair cut at the local barbers followed by a drink at the bar.  We are directly opposite the marina so not surprised how expensive he drinks are.  We chat to the owner who is eating his dinner outside.  He asks if we have paid our bill and when we yes and thought it a bit expensive he calls the waiter back, tells him we are not regular tourists and should not have been charged their price but must have another drink free of charge.  Just shows what a bit of the local lingo does.  We go to Cems restaurant in the evening for a meal.  They have a vegetable plot and grow their own and also keep bees for fresh honey.   We ask Cem to bring us an assortment of items from his Meze menu.  We end up with absolutely heaps of food, all delicious.  At the next table are 8 English people who have chartered a gullet (boat).  They say it is the best and the cheapest food they have had in Turkey so far.  We notice that we have had about twice as much food as them but our bill per head was half of theirs.  I’m having a few problems with my computer and one of the English people offers to help.  We used the generator yesterday morning and it was fine but now it won’t start.  Maybe we have some dirty fuel, so will try topping up with fresh and see what happens. 

ORCHANYE – 34 MILES

 

FRIDAY 17 OCTOBER – Leave the motorhome at the motel and set off on the boat at 10am.  Stop and anchor at Hleina Bay for lunch and a swim.  The coastline is very jagged and the half hour car journey to Bozburun takes 3 hours by boat and his is where we anchor up for the night.  In the evening Sarah takes me ashore and round the village introducing me to the locals who are all so friendly and insists we stop for Cay (Turkish weak tea served in small tulip shaped glasses).  Sarah visits the hairdressers and it’s the same one Steve went to yesterday.  I’m recognised immediately and made especially welcome.  Our trip ashore takes 3 hours and finishes with us eating a BBQ of meatballs washed down with raki whilst chatting to the Harbour Master. 

BOZBURUN, COCKATOO

 

SATURDAY 18 OCTOBER – Set off for Simi and stop at Smokey Bay for swimming and lunch. Sarah’s Mum used to have a hotel and this is where Sarah learnt her excellent catering skills.  Unfortunately Roy picks up severe gale warnings on the radio so we have to return to Bozburun.

BOZBURUN – COCKATOO

 

SUNDAY 19 OCTOBER – Following a night of storms and a bad long range forecast we decide it is better for us to jump ship, as there is no saying when they will be able to set off.  We wait at the bus stop but find that hey don’t run at all on a Sunday.  Walk back to Cockatoo.  In the afternoon Steve spots a dead Moray eel in the water.  Sarah scoops it out and takes it to Osmans restaurant where the chef says it is OK and he will cook it for us tonight.  As evening approaches another storm begins and all the electricity in the port goes off.  Despite this the restaurant stays open using gas lanterns so we sit down to eat the eel.  YUK, it would seem that the eel was not as fresh as thought and tastes vile.  We settle for the salad and chips that accompany it. 

BOZBURUN – COCKATOO

 

MONDAY 20 OCTOBER – The 9.30am bus is running so we say our Good-byes to the locals (we feel like locals ourselves and have trouble avoiding the many offers of tea as we make our way to the bus stop).  Collect the van from Cems Dad’s Motel where they will not accept any money for storage.  Back through Marmaris then out to Turunc to check out the area.  Return via Marmaris then via Dalyan to Izutu Beach.  This is the beach where the loggerhead turtles lay their eggs. David Bellamy was part of a conservation group who prevented a hotel being built here and had it declared a conservation area.  The turtles are not here at the moment but still the warden asks us to move out of the area at night and park by the gates.  More rain.

IZTUZU (TURTLE) BEACH – 109 MILES

 

TUESDAY 21 OCTOBER – Driving back through Dalyan we stop to speak to two Dutch couples with motorhomes.  We were just about to leave but change our plans and gather information from them as they are travelling to Syria and Jordan.  We seem to be changing our plans as often as our underpants at the moment (it’s a pity we are not Turkish as they only change their underpants every 3 days).  The weather improves and we team up with New Zealanders, Barbara and Malcolm, to charter a riverboat to the mud baths and the hot springs.  The mud baths at Ilica 100,000TL (40p) are quite an experience.  First you cover yourself in dark grey mud from the bottom of a warm pool, leave to dry for about 10 minutes, jump under a cold shower to rinse and then step into the thermal pool.  This is the recipe for increased male potency and a cure for rheumatism and gynaecological problems.  Next stop further up the rivers towards Koycegiz lake looks like a mosque but is actually an old building with a thermal pool inside that has stone ruins in the bottom 200,000TL (80p).  We head ourselves up in the 40C water then run out and plunge into the lake (actually hobble over the stones and clamber down the steps but the doesn’t sound as exciting).  Our boat driver Hassan joins us in the thermal pool and Barbara and I end up getting a Turkish massage from him.  After returning to Dalyan we take a local boat across the river to walk to the rock tombs.  Barbara and Malcolm join us in the van for tea and we offer them a lift to Fethiye tomorrow.  They are doing a similar trip to us but return to the UK every few months to earn enough to finance the next part of their trip.  The two Dutch couples join us and the beer and wine flow.  They tell us they did the same trip last year and enjoyed it so much that they are going to winter in Jordan again this year.  They look to be retired people with plenty of spirit and adventure and we decide that if they are brave enough to make the trip then why not us.  We agree that if we make it to Jordan we will meet up with them to travel in convoy through Israel to catch the ferry back to Greece.  The ferry offers unlimited stops so we plan to take 1 or 2 weeks at each, Cyprus, Rhodes and Crete before reaching Athens.

DALYAN – 7 MILES

 

WEDNESDAY 22 OCTOBER – Pick up Malcolm & Barbara at 9am then drop them in Fethiye before driving that bit further along to Olu Deniz campsite, 1,000,000 (£4) with electric.  At Olu Deniz there is a spit of sand with beaches on both sides and a lagoon with the campsite on the shore site.  From the campsite we wade across the lagoon to the sand spit (and avoid paying the admission charge) but the beaches at the far side are not so good and very busy.  A stroll along the main town beach takes us to the boats and we are just agreeing a price for a trip tomorrow when Barbara and Malcolm walk up.  They are none too thrilled with Fethiye and are also going to stay at Olu Deniz.  We book onto the same boat trip for tomorrow then they check into cabins on our campsite.  A pleasant afternoon sunbathing is followed by an evening BBQ.  We sit out watching the hang glides descend from the nearby hill, expensive at £55 each.  Having just changed our plans to take in Syria and Jordan we hear on the news that Turkey has done something nice for Israel so the Syrians have retaliated and closed the border with Turkey.  Another change of underpants required.

OLU DENIZ CAMPSITE – 50 MILES

 

THURSDAY 23 OCTOBER – There’s very heavy rain first thing but we go along to the boat kiosk for 10.30am as the man said he would refund the money if the trip were cancelled because of bad weather.  A number of other people are gathered but no boatman.  Someone tells us the tickets are good for another day and many people leave but as we are going tomorrow this is no good to us.  Having been stupid enough to pay in full we now notice that on the tickets the price has been written with one “0” missing.  Another man appears and offers to take us on his boat trip but we must pay again – this starts to sound like a scam I have read about where they sell you tickets, don’t sow up but then send an accomplice to get you to pay again and go with them.  A third man says he will find t man who sold us the tickets and we trail around with him whilst he makes a show of attempting to find him before saying he will go in the car to the mans house.  He is most put out when we say one of us wants to go with him.  He goes off alone, never to be seen again.  Next port of call is the local Jandarma who try to appear sympathetic and take us to another person in the same boat co-operative who will not refund our money but assures us our man will show up later.  We wait until 12.15 before giving up.  The Jandarma tell us to call back at 4pm when an interpreter will be there.  We leave in the hope hat our man will be there tomorrow as no one can do anything more about it.  The money is slightly annoying but just how many tourists are being conned like this each year.  We hope for a nice day tomorrow so that we can catch our many selling trips to other people.  Big tip for everyone’s, don’t just read it in the guide books as we did but take notice – only pay a small deposit at the most in advance but better still turn up for any boat trips about ½ hour before departure time and haggle for a price cut.  At least that way you know the boat is going and you will probably get a good discount.  Phone Claire, David has got engaged and bought a car for £50.  The rain continues throughout the day and accompanying thunder.  We are quite happy in our cosy motorhome editing the home video, doing the diary on the computer and watching movies but feel very sorry for the campers of which there are too many to invite in. 

OLU DENIZ CAMPSITE 2

 

FRIDAY 24 OCTOBER – Barbara is not feeling well so they go off to find better lodgings with a bathroom so she can rest for the day.  It’s not a bad day so with Malcolm we find the boatman and go on the trip.  We should realise all is not well when he asks us to walk around the lagoon the get on the boat as the swell is too great in the bay.  It takes 3 attempts for us to leave.  We visit Coldwater Bay with lots of ruins plus 3 other bays.  Every time the boat pools up small boats surround us with people coming on board trying to sell us pies, gozleme and other things.  One man even comes by on a jet ski offering people rides.  The whole trip is very touristy and geared up to take as much as possible from the passengers.  This seems very alien to us having already seen the “real” Turkey.  We’ve got used to paying 100,000TL (40p) for beers.  Yesterday he told us that on the boat the beers were 200.000.TL (80p) but in fact they charge 250,000TL (£1). The snorkelling equipment that he said was available free of charge consists of just one mask and goggles between all 50 passengers.  The lunch is really frugal and the visits to Butterfly Valley and the Blue Grotto are missed out. Many people complain but the man just doesn’t want to know.  Anyway we come out on top when he can’t change our large note for the bar bill then forgets to come back.  Back on the site we meet another English couple that are in a tent and invite them in for a meal.  David’s parents live at Church Eaton near Stafford near to our friend’s Jan & Dave Gough.  David (an artist) and his girlfriend Sarah (a journalist) have a VW camper called “Valentine” and very much wish they had brought it to Turkey instead of camping. 

OLU DENIZ CAMPSITE 3

 

SATURDAY 25 OCTOBER – A dull morning.  Malcolm & Barbara come rushing out from their accommodation as we had offered them a lift if they were waiting.  Kaya Koyu ghost town is really spooky.  2000 empty derelict cottages and 3 churches remain and an area by the church has bones left over from where the Greeks exhumed the bodies to take he skulls away with them when they fled.  Head back through Fethiye and call in for petrol.  We spend half and hour at the garage drinking tea whilst 3 men clean the motorhome.  First stop of the day is Saklikent Gorge.  You walk along platforms at the side of the gorge until it widens out to an area with springs bubbling up.  Straddling the streams are platforms used by the restaurants for their tables and chairs.  It’s very picturesque but we have been warned not to venture upstream as there is a danger of flash floods after the recent rains.  Letoon is an ancient city in ruins and partly under water.  The amphitheatre is used each year as the location for electing the local Tomato Queen – the person with the rosiest cheeks wins and the losers get pelted with tomatoes whilst the winner gets a years supply of them.  Last stop Patara with the longest sandy beach in he Med and very nice too.  Here the ancient town is partially buried in the sand.  Nearby Gelemis offers accommodation and Malcolm & Barbara check into Flower Pansyion on the understanding that we can park up in the garden.  You have to hand over your passports and this is when Malcolm realises left them in Olu Deniz when they rushed to catch us this morning.  It’s already 4pm and after many expletives Malcolm realises he must go back.  We offer to drive him but the pension owner assures him there are plenty of buses.  Barbara, Steve and myself eat our evening meal at the pension, a delicious local casserole.  Malcolm arrives back to 10.30pm having shared buses with sheep, and goats and witnessed a fire in a bar whilst buying a cheeseburger! 

GELEMIS – 83 MILES

 

SUNDAY 26 OCTOBER – After an awful night of rain we wake to a lovely morning with clear blue skies so it’s off to Patara beach.  It’s quite windy but still OK for swimming in the sea.  Late afternoon a bee takes a fancy to my bottom and gives it an unwelcome kiss – not sure what other people on the beach would have made of Steve sucking the sting out, only joking he picked it out.  Walk into the village of Gelemis in the evening where Steve sees off local pool champion Kemel, a lad of about 13.  Have a very nice meal at Kemel’s friend Hassan’s parent’s restaurant and once again end up feeling part of the family. 

GELEMIS 2

 

MONDAY 27 OCTOBER – Another hot day with clear blue skies so our plans to move on are shelved, not difficult given the good weather, nice beach and friendly pension owner.  Yesterday he offered us use of a hot shower, let us put two loads of washing in the machine and served us breakfast for a total of 400,000 (£1.50).  This helps us to overlook the crazy chickens that climb the tress and start cock-a-doodle- dooing at 2am.  Stay down the beach until late afternoon when it’s even too windy where we are sheltering in the dunes.  Our evening in the village finds me at the barbers having a hair cut (very short to remove the blonde bits, shame he can’t remove the grey so easily) 600,000TL (£2.40).  At Bistrot with Mahmut we try Adana kebabs cooked over an open fire in the middle of the restaurant.  We chat to a couple opposite from Iceland and get an invitation to visit in the future.  Think I will have to start a new address book for all our new friends.

GELEMIS 3 – 4 MILES

 

TUESDAY 28 OCTOBER – We leave early to drive via Kalkan to Kas.  Planning to take a boat trip we intend to arrive just before one leaves and negotiate a good price.  It’s easy to park in he harbour and as the trip doesn’t return until after dark we check with a number of people that we are OK to stay overnight and that there is no charge.  Our negotiations pay off and we get the trip for 1,500,000TL (£5) including buffet lunch.  The boat takes us to Aquarium Bay where we swim (coincidentally the boat is called Aquarium and we suspect the Bay takes it’s name after whichever boat is there at the time).  Ucagiz is our stop for an all you can eat buffet lunch and from here we walk to Teimiussa to see the rock tombs.  At Simena we climb up to the hilltop castle.  Finally we stop to see the ruined buildings under the water at Kekova Island and for a swim.  A good all round trip. Return to the van where a man comes up to us and demands 100,000 (40p) per hour and a total of 2.000.000TL (£7.50) for parking.  We refuse to pay explaining that we asked lots of people and they said it was free.  We end up at the Police station with him and they agree that there is no sign saying you have to pay and because the man didn’t come to us when we arrived we don’t have to.  Unfortunately the man doesn’t see things that way and follow us back to the motorhome.  He tells us in no uncertain terms to leave and suddenly comes out with some strong English swear words.  This leaves us with a problem as the campsites at Kas are closed and we’ve been warned not to drive at night.  However the Dutch people told us of a place to wild camp near Demre and after studying the map we decide it would be safer to drive there than stay here and risk the wrath of the car park man.  Fortunately the road is very good and we are very pleased to pull into the harbour at Andriake, near Demre and see our Dutch friend’s vans parked there.

DEMRE, ANDRIAKE HARBOUR – 61 MILES

 

WEDNESDAY 29 OCTOBER – Having arrived in the dark we now realise what a super spot we are at.  It’s a quiet harbour with water and a toilet nearby, a few bars and shops for the boat trippers and a lovely sandy beach.  Yes you’ve guess – another day on the beach but with a bit of exercise late afternoon when we ride the bikes to Demre.  Father Christmas was buried here in St Nicholas church (I know –sounds like another Jackanory) so we feel we ought to pay a visit but not surprisingly are disappointed.  Back at the van Steve cooks for all us of on the BBQ and Suzan provides a salad.  All go into Conny & Henk’s van for coffee.  In the summer Suzan and Gerban live on a naturist site in Holland then spend their winters travelling with Conny and Henk in their respective motorhomes.  Suzan is a musician and has a piano in the van, which she plays for us.

DEMRE, ANDRIAKE HARBOUR 2

 

THURSDAY 30 OCTOBER – It seems that during the course of last night I agreed to go jogging with Conny at 7am, so I join her for a 3km run.  I return puffing a bit (all due to my blocked up nose which was in turn due to excess alcohol last night), whilst Cony is as fresh as a daisy.  A bit embarrassing as she is more than 10 years older than me.  Yet another day on the beach but with a walk to the ruins of Andriake in the afternoon.  The remains of Hadrian’s Granary are her e and this was used to store local grain before it was sent to Rome.

DEMRE, ANDRIAKE HARBOUR 3

 

FRIDAY 31 OCTOBER – After joining our Dutch friends for morning coffee we set off to Myra.  This is another place with ruins and the best example of Lycian rock tombs plus a very good theatre.  The last ruins on our list so we approach them with a bit more gusto as we are getting a bit blasé, as there are so many in Turkey.  On through Finike and into Mount Olympus national park to climb the mountain.  This is the home of the Chimaera, a mythical fire-breathing monster.  Park at the end of the road and walk for a good half hour up the mountain before finding the spot with the fires.  Unexplained fire appears from under rocks and when extinguished there is a smell of methane before the fumes spontaneously combust.  Return to the motorhome and make plans to park up for the night so that we can climb back up at dusk and see the flames in the dark.  It’s quite a spectacle, like nothing we have ever seen before. Some people have taken bread to toast on the flames.  We meet up with 3 Dutch people who have no torch so using ours we escort them back down the mountain.  By the car park is a make shift open-air bar and the owner invites us to warm ourselves by the fire and to plug in the van to his electricity.  He then offers us a jacket potato from the fire.  I reciprocate and make us all some soup by which time we are joined by Adrian from Blackburn who has just come down the mountain.  The man puts some of our tapes into his cassette player and we dance around the fire.  A coach arrives with some Australians and the driver and his son join our little party and I make them some coffee.  The Australians return and join us dancing by the fire before the coach driver says it is time to leave and offers Adrian a life.  We finally get back into the van and have chance to make use of the electricity to edit the video and work on the computer.  What a bizarre but fun evening.

MOUNT OLYMPUS, BOTTOM OF CHIMAERA – 55 MILES 

WEDNESDAY 1 OCTOBER 1997 – I go into Istanbul with Cicek and her Mum Gulistan to carry out some traditional Turkish pre wedding shopping. The bride’s family buy some Gold jewellery for her and the groom and the bride’s Mum chooses the nightwear for the wedding night!  Rain in the afternoon.  Steve and Barry go out in the evening to a haman bath with Alp.

SARIYER 10

 

THURSDAY 2 OCTOBER – Cicek seems to have a cold coming on so stays at home.  Barry, Steve and I head into Istanbul to continue the sightseeing programme.  First we want to climb the Galata Tower but once Barry sees how high it is he insists on getting something to eat first.  We go to a traditional Turkish restaurant where they serve fresh roast chicken, doner and other hot meals.  I settle for chicken, roast potatoes and veg, Steve has lamb with rice and Barry a lasagne.  There are huge piles of fresh bread on the tables and bottles of water.  I have a slightly worrying moment when Barry says he thinks we have boobed and gone into a men only restaurant, as I am the only female and attracting strange glances.  Fortunately no sooner has he said this than a couple of women come in – have I started a new trend?  The bill including a pudding is just under £3.  With enough sustenance in our bellies we make the climb up the Galata Tower and get great views and can now pick out many of the areas we have already visited.  It’s a short walk to the Pera Palas Hotel.  Michael Palin stayed here on his “Pole to pole” trip.  Agatha Christie also stayed here when she mysteriously disappeared for 11 days only to emerge having written Murder on the Orient Express.  The Orient Express used to terminate in Istanbul and the hotel was built for the passengers to be able to stay in equal opulence.  A small backhander gets us a visit to the room where she stayed.  The story gets more intriguing as a medium later had a vision of Agatha hiding the key to her diary under the floorboards in this room.  The key was duly unearthed and put in the hotel safe where the manager hoped to bribe Warner Brothers who were making a film about her.  His dealing didn’t work and the key is still here.  A short hop in a taxi takes us to the Sulleymanye complex from where we walk down to Kapali Carsi (the grand bazaar) where Barry negotiates and buys a copper tray type Turkish table.  Next stop is the Beyazit Meydani where they have a second hand book market.  The stalls are full of schoolwork books, mainly to teach students English. It seems that at the end of the school year students sell their old books here and by new ones, at least they are supposed to wait until the end of the school year.  We are feeling peckish and from a street cart buy pizza type pitta bread filled with salad and washed down with Aryan (water yoghurt), a snip at 35p a time.  Get a taxi back to the car.  Barry gets a bit lost and we end up with an unscheduled drive around the old city walls that enclosed Byzantium.  Stop off at Migros supermarket to buy ingredients for a vegetable curry.

SARIYER 11

 

FRIDAY 3 OCTOBER – Turkish tradition has it that the day before the wedding the bride’s Mum comes and prepares the wedding bedroom.  As Cicek’s Mum got a phone call yesterday to say that her house move is scheduled for this Sunday she has delegated the task to Cigdem (Cicek’s brother’s wife) – my offer to help is politely refused.  I find out later that the bed has special sheets on for the bride’s first night!  In the evening I go along to the hen night.  Gulistans house is full of relatives and Cicek’s friends, over 50 people in total.  Very loud Turkish and Arabic music is played and everyone dances in circles.  A small ceremony is performed – the bridge put on traditional clothes and a jewelled headscarf.  Everyone holds a small candle and the lights are put out as the bridge walks under a tunnel of candles with what looks like a green birthday cake held over her head.  Once seated on a chair a circle of chanting forms around her and then the oldest lady in the house (her grandmother) takes some paste from the cake (a henna cake) and plaster it on Cicek’s hand and then covers her hand with a bag.  The lights go on and Cicek has to go around and kiss everyone.  Anyone who isn’t attending the wedding then pins coins or banknotes on her.  Next we all daub henna on one hand.  After ten minutes you wash the gunk off and then the remaining green stain slowly turns orange and remains on for up to two weeks.  Meanwhile Steve and Barry have gone to Alps for a few drinks and call to collect me just before midnight with Steve very much the worse for wear.  I think he has looked after Barry by drinking his share of whisky as well as his own.  They come into the house and Barry sits on the floor whilst Cicek’s grandmother pus henna on his little finger.  The journey back to Barry’s is slow, as we have to keep stopping for Steve to open the door and be sick.

SARIYER 12

 

SATURDAY 4 OCTOBER – We collect Cicek, her best friend Arzu and Cigdem then proceed to the hairdressers where we spend the next four hours.  We all have our hair and make up done and then get changed into our wedding outfits.  Barry collects us in his car strewn with flowers and takes Cigdem, and I to Gulistan’s house whilst he and Cicek go to the studio for formal photos.  All the women are gathered inside the house and the men are out in the street.  When the bride returns the women hide her with the veil.  Her brother Yavuz enters the house to partake in negotiations by Barry to buy the bride.  Barry secures the deal with a Tottenham Hotspurs shirt and we pile into cars and head for he town hall.  En route other cars toot their horns and children stop the wedding car to be handed money.  The big problem with this nowadays is that some of the older kids literally jump out and stop the car and block the road until they have all had a lot of money, this has resulted in someone being killed as most of the roads are very busy.  The official ceremony is performed at the town hall with Alp acting as interpreter and Steve and Arzu witnesses.  The bridge and groom then move into the back room to stand in front of a plain wall for photographs.  Everyone files past pinning gold coins, gold jewellery or banknotes onto Cicek and Barry then pausing for a photograph.  Once everyone has gone past we set off for the reception.  We are travelling with Alp and he stops at Burger King and then at a fish restaurant boat on route.  Having seen the type of food served at the previous wedding we can understand this but suspect Barry has something grander in mind for their reception.  Arrive at the Malta Kiosk in Yidez Park where we are seated in a conservatory.  An organist plays music whilst we enjoy a big three-course meal but no alcohol is served.  The Muslim ladies sit at a separate table to the men and also dance separately to Turkish music.  We are seated with Cicek’s friends who are so westernised they have smuggled in a few bottles of wine.  Very different to an English wedding and we feel privileged to have joined in.  When Barry & Cicek return home we go to Alp & Gamze’s to stay the night.

ISTANBUL, ALP & GAMZE’S HOUSE

 

SUNDAY 5 OCTOBER – With Alp, Gamze and children Timor and Tunc we return to Barry’s.  Barry bought a huge 3 litres bottle of champagne whilst we were in Bulgaria and this goes well with the fresh tuna steaks that Steve cooks on the BBQ.  It’s a lovely day so we relax in preparation for setting off tomorrow.  Neighbour’s Ali and Aisha join us along with their family.

SARIYER

 

MONDAY 6 OCTOBER – Finally get away from Istanbul at 12.00.  We head towards Gallipolis but detour for a couple of hours to sunbathe on a beach.  We are pulled over twice for spot checks, once by Police and once by the army.  Apparently this is normal in Turkey and they usually just look at your documents but as they don’t speak much English and our Turkish is no better we escape with a polite Hello then Goodbye.  We don’t make it as far as Gallipolis but settle on a campsite (1,000,000 TL (3.90) without electric) on the straits side of the peninsula and are joined by a German couple that sleep in their estate car.  

GELIBOLU – 200 MILES

 

TUESDAY 7 OCTOBER – Once again I wish I had taken more notice during the school history lessons instead of having to read everything in the guidebook.  Briefly the peninsula of Gallipolis controls the Dardanelle’s channel, which is the only ice-free passage to Russia.  Australians, New Zealanders, British, French and Indian troops tried to invade this area in order to control the shipping lanes.  For various reasons all attempts failed but not before about 160,000 people were killed.  The area is full of World War 1 battlefields and Allied cemeteries with multiple graves, memorials and obelisks.  A shocking reminder in contrast to the peacefulness and beautiful scenery we see today.  We visit a number of sites and the main obelisks for the New Zealand, Australian and British troops before being drawn to the beach.  The weather is fantastic with not a cloud in the sky.  The campsite at the back of “V” beach (Cape Helles) is closed but a local person tells us it is OK to stay there overnight.

CAPE HELLES, SEDDULBAHIR – 45 MILES

 

WEDNESDAY 8 OCTOBER – We make an early start and stop in the village for a loaf of bread (9p) and a couple of tomatoes for which the man will not accept any payment.  A quick look at the tetrahedral shaped Turkish monument on the top of a hill with fantastic views.  It seems that the main monuments carry the names of all that countries dead but the bodies are scattered around the various cemeteries as near as possible to where they were killed.  At the small village of Kilitbahir we catch the unofficial ferry to Canakkale 1.500.000TL (£5.80).  We are really too high to fit on and it’s a drive on drive off but they put us on at the back of the ferry with most of the motorhome hanging off.  At the other side he backs into the port for us to reverse off.  Yet another example of how helpful the Turks are.  A short drive southwards down the coast takes us to Truva (Troy).  Yes another history lesson as it has recently been proved that the legend of Troy actually occurred.  There’s a replica of the Trojan horse and a vast archaeological site to wander round.  They have dug down to 9 different levels dating back to 2500BC.  The weather is still holding out so we head down the Aegean cost to a little village called Oren to become the only visitors at the Atlin campsite.  It’s a very nice spot with a private sandy beach.  The biggest problem with this weather is that we are already a day behind schedule, but who cares?  I don’t feel too well in the evening and opt for an early night at 8pm.

OREN, ATLIN CAMPSITE – 117 MILES

 

THURSDAY 9 OCTOBER – I’m still not well and stay in bed until 11am but can’t quite say what exactly is wrong with me.  Steve spends the whole day on our private beach and I amble to and fro.  Finally figure out what the problem might be as the water in the van has become silvery coloured and smells of sulphur (all this time I’ve been blaming Steve for the rotten smells).  We flush the tank through with a very mild bleach solution and refill with fresh water.  I guess that with the van being out of action for 6 weeks the water has gone off and this has become more apparent as we have got down the tank.  I drink much more water than Steve so this may explain my problem.  Steve manages to buy a phone card from the chef in one of the village hotels but it now turns out that the phone card telephone booth on our site is locked and the one that is open only takes jettons!

OREN, ATLIN CAMPSITE 2

 

FRIDAY 10 OCTOBER – Back on the road again with an early morning visit to Bergama (the ancient town of Pergamon).  The ancient site is quite interesting and has great views from its hillside location.  Call at a garage to get air put in the tyres and end up shelving out 4,000,000TL (£15.70) to have extension tubes fitted from the inner tyres.  Better still is Ephesus, which we visit in the afternoon.  Said to be the largest and best-preserved Roman site apart from Pompeii.  Tourist abounds on day trips from Kusadasi.  Late afternoon it is quiet enough to wander round and avoid the crowds whilst taking in the magnificent ruins.  Just up the road from the site we visit the cave of the seven sleepers.  Seven Christians fell asleep in here and were walled in by anti-Christians.  They awoke after an earthquake and on venturing into the village found out that 200 years had passed and that it was now fashionable to be a Christian.  They died soon after (presumably from shock) and were buried in the grotto with a commemorative church built over their graves.  Sounds good but following a wild goose chase up the mountainside we find that the cave is closed.  Nearby the Lonely Planet leads us to a café specialising in gozleme (pancakes).  Park at the Motel camping near Ephesus.

EPHESUS, MOTEL CAMPING – 164 MILES

 

SATURDAY 11 OCTOBER – We don’t seem to learn from experience and set off on another wild goose chase to Meryemana.  Jackanory time again folks – St John was asked to look after the virgin Mary as one of Jesus’ last request and he brought her to Ephesus.  In the 18^th century a German nun had a vision of a small stone house where the Virgin spent her last years and died.  A priest later followed up these records and the description led them to a building near Ephesus.  This spot has now become a shrine on the itinerary of pilgrims worldwide.  We actually can’t believe what we are saying as it really could be anything.  A short drive north up the coast takes us to a nice beach, NW of Selcuk Notion, where we sunbathe before facing the tourist resort of Kusadasi. Steve is persuaded to stay when he sees a sign that the England V Italy world cup match is on in the bars.  We check onto Campsite Onder 1,150,000TL (£4.25) with electric.  It’s very quiet with only 4 other campers.   Walk into town where the hassle starts straight away, as we are coaxed into restaurants and bars serving English meals and with English speaking staff.  Queen Victoria is our final choice and we join dozens of other England supporters for the 9.45 local time kick off.  It’s uproar when the match doesn’t come on.  Visits to other bars in “Pub Alley” produce no better results.  Eventually at about 10.15 they manage to tune in toe the Italian channel and as it is the only bar in the street to do so we are joined by even more supporters.  A typical example of Turkish organisation, to advertise the match and not realise it is on a pay channel that they don’t subscribe to!

KUSADASI, CAMPSITE ONDER – 43 MILES

 

SUNDAY 12 OCTOBER – For £10 we book organised coach trip to Pamukkale, lunch and admission included.   For a 400km return trip it is cheaper than taking the van and fun to be conventional tourists for the day.  On the way we pass lots of cotton fields and learn that the pickers have come from eastern Turkey with their families and get paid around £4 each per day.  With an average family of 10 people this makes the journey worthwhile.  They stay in primitive tents in the fields and return at the end of the season with enough money to last until next year.  Our bus driver gets pulled over for speeding and rather than pay the full fine and get a ticket both he and the policemen are happy with a bribe and no paperwork.  Another interesting piece of information is about he Turkish railways, mainly built by the British.  The tracks take a curious route because the contract offered the builders rights to anything within 100 yards of the track and this was manipulated to best advantage. Near Pamukkale we stop to look around Hieropolis necropolis before continuing. Pamukkale means cotton castle and is a natural phenomenon where spring water with calcium carbonate has run down the hill and coagulated on the rocks to eventually form terraces with rock pools full of mineral water (travertine).  This was fantastic until a few years ago when the Turks in their wisdom decided to sell the water to the Hotels and this in turn reduced the flow to the terraces.  Theses are now almost dried up from lack of water and destroyed by tourists being encouraged to walk over them.  Slightly better late than never they have now roped off most of the area and you can now only walk on a small section.  Still a fantastic sight but not doubt it would have been much better a few years ago.  There’s a proper swimming bath at the site and we swim in there until the coach leaves.

KUSADASI, CAMPSITE ONDER 2

 

MONDAY 13 OCTOBER – Steve is tempted by the cheap “full English cooked breakfast”.  Bit of a mistake as the bacon has about 1” fat and the sausages are a few slithers of pepperoni. Drive south via Soke, the edge of Lake Bafa and Milas to Bodrum.  Continue out onto the peninsula to Huseyin Burnu lighthouse.  There’s a nice quiet beach where we sunbathe in the afternoon.  Take our evening meal in the nearby Fener restaurant. 

W OF BODRUM, HUSEYIN BURNU LIGHTHOUSE – 112 MILES

 

TUESDAY 14 OCTOBER – It’s very hot weather so we spend a lazy day on the beach.  Our lunch is truly international, Turkish steak, Bulgarian wine, Romanian smash potato, Hungarian margarine, French mushrooms and an English packet of peppercorn sauce.  Walk along to check out the hotel early evening then return to play scrabble. 

W OF BODRUM, HUSEYIN BURNU LIGHTHOUSE 2

 

WEDNESDAY 15 OCTOBER – Very windy in the night and still so when we wake up.  Drive into Bodrum to look around the castle.  Stop for petrol at Mobil station and end up with free tea and a full van wash as part of the service.  In Marmaris we try to find the shipping agents for an English company who offer naturist cruises in this area.  We have been unsuccessfully trying to contact them by phone for a few days but eventually find the agents who tell us they are based on the peninsula at Orchanye.  Drive into the village where many boats are anchored in the bay.  Make contact by walking out to the end of the pier and shouting out “Ahoy Cockatoo” in the general direction of the boats.  Someone appears on deck and rows ashore to introduce herself as Sarah before inviting us aboard for a drink.  It transpires that Sarah & Roy left England in 1980 to travel in their boat Cockatoo but after 4 years they were running out of money but still wanted to keep going.  By taking passengers on board in the summer they could be self financing.  13 years on and they still do the same thing from May until the middle of October.  They have now finished their work for the year but as we have a lot in common and have made such an effort to track them down they invite us along for a short trip.  For just £25 day they will take us with them tomorrow when they head for the Greek island of Simi in order to renew their visas.  We return to Orchanye intending to eat at the recommended Cems restaurant where we believe Steve will be able to watch the Liverpool v West Brom match on their satellite TV.  As we are assessing if we can make the steep drive a car drives out.  Cem is just leaving and to cut a long story short we end up spending the evening at his house being fed by his Mum whilst Steve watches he match.  They then offer us parking at his Dad’s Motel with use of the showers and toilets.

ORCHANYE – 146 MILES

 

MONDAY 1 SEPTEMBER 1997 – Our 9.35am flight back to Manchester is delayed by almost 2 hours.  We arrive in Manchester ENGLAND at about 2pm then start researching our options to get to Claire’s.  The local travel agents offer free shuttle buses to the airport and we hunt them down and offer them money to give us a ride.  £10 secures us a lift almost to Claire’s.  (It’s amazing had we not been in Turkey and seen just how well back handers work we would never have thought it doing it that way).  We are dropped off at the pub at Thornton and sit out having a drink.  Our first shock comes when we have to pay £3.50 for 2 pints and not 50p we have been used to paying.  Daz and his Dad Frank arrive to pick us up.  We get more information about the birth and learn that Claire is already at home with Daniel Lee.  He’s a little beauty with blue eyes and just a little bit of fair hair (must take after Granddad Steve).  Do a few things to help around the house and pick up a Chinese take away.  Borrow Claire’s car in the evening to visit Parkwood Street and the 3 little pigs that have turned the house into a sty.  David and his mates knew we were coming and intended staying in the house so we are amazed at just how bad it is.  The toilet is completely blocked and full of flies.  All the pans and crockery are dirty and piled up on the greasy worktops.  Everywhere else is generally dirty and smelly.  I get the three lads together and tell them that if they don’t want to be chucked out straight away then they are to tackle some jobs before we return.  By the time we get back from Sandra’s a bit of an attempt has been made but it still leaves a lot to be desired.

KEIGHLEY, PARKWOOD STREET.

 

TUESDAY 2 SEPTEMBER – Do a few jobs in Keighley then pick Claire up for a shopping trip.  We haven’t bought anything for Daniel so this is a chance for Claire to pick what she wants.  She manages a few hours round town before feeling weary which is not surprising.  In the evening we visit Andy Lyle then Richard and Sharon. 

KEIGHLEY, PARKWOOD STREET 2

 

WEDNESDAY 3 SEPTEMBER – David says it isn’t working with him renting our house.  Too many “friends” know he is there and arrive to doss down.  At one stage there were 20 people crashing out in the house – and no on paying rent.  He is going to look for a small flat and we will do the house up and rent it out commercially.  To this end Craven Property Services call round to advise on rent ability.  Pop up to Claire’s to cook tea for us all.

KEIGHLEY, PARKWOOD STREET 3

 

THURSDAY 4 SEPTEMBER – Other estate agents visit but we decide to go with Craven who only deal with property rentals.  Scale 2 charges landlords an initial letting fee of 1 months rent then ongoing management fees of 9.5% + VAT.  I drive Claire over to Damart, where she worked, so that she can show off Daniel.  Do more cleaning up at Parkwood.  Steve goes out to bowling. 

KEIGHLEY, PARKWOOD STREET 4

 

FRIDAY 5 SEPTEMBER – The “For Let” board goes up and we get immediate interest.  David, Chris (Kelly) and Joe (Oswell) move out.  David and Joey are going to share a flat in Church Green.  Baby-sit at Claire’s in the evening but leave Steve behind at Parkwood Street as some lads have threatened to break in.  Apparently when David was in the house “mates” would break in through the kitchen window if he didn’t let them in through the door to stay.  I return and find there has been no problem so hopefully word has gone around that David has moved out.

KEIGHLEY, PARKWOOD STREET 5

 

SATURDAY 6 SEPTEMBER – We all sit together at Claire’s watching Princess Diana’s funeral on TV.   Virtually everything in England comes to a standstill with most shops closed.  Netty, Dave, Bobby, Nicky and Mum arrive in the afternoon to meet Daniel.  We take them down to Parkwood for tea.

KEIGHLEY, PARKWOOD STREET 6

 

SUNDAY 7 SEPTEMBER – I cook lunch for Claire, Daz, Mavis and Trevor.  Return to Claire’s where Paul & Elaine come up to pick us up and take us down to the Midlands.  They drop us off at Mum’s where we stay.

MARKET DRAYTON

 

MONDAY 8 SEPTEMBER – Spend the day at Mum’s clearing out some things in the cellar.  Walk to Netty’s late afternoon and stop for tea.

MARKET DRAYTON 2

 

TUESDAY 9 SEPTEMBER – Pop into town and sort out some photo developing.  Stay in at Mum’s in the evening.

MARKET DRAYTON 3

 

WEDNESDAY 10 SEPTEMBER – Do the obligatory visit to Market Drayton market.  Mavis and Sian come round in the afternoon so I make another trip up town to show them round the market.  Return to Mavis & Trevor’s for the night.  Kevin and Sandra also call round to see us.  In the evening we borrow Mavis’s car to go to Worcester to meet up with our friends Karen and John for a pub meal.  It’s at the Talbot Hotel nr Knight Wick and very expensive and not especially nice.

TELFORD

 

THURSDAY 11 SEPTEMBER – Spend most of the day with Mavis up at the town centre shopping mall. Go to Lisa and Mick’s in the evening.

TELFORD

 

FRIDAY 12 SEPTEMBER – After a lazy morning we have lunch at Telford.  Trevor drives us over to Pete & Carols and we walk around to Di Bloores for a chat.  We all go up to Paul & Elaine’s for an evening meal and we stay the night.

NEWPORT

 

SATURDAY 13 SEPTEMBER – Our 22^nd wedding anniversary.  Steve and Paul join Kevin to go to the Wolverhampton Wanderers match in the afternoon.  Elaine & I play squash.  Meal at The Bridge with Evo’s, Scott’s and Spooner’s.  I buy a second hand computer for £70

NEWPORT 2

 

SUNDAY 14 SEPTEMBER – Go to Pete & Carol’s for lunch after which they take us back up to Claire’s. 

KEIGHLEY, PARKWOOD STREET

 

MONDAY 15 SEPTEMBER – Worked on Parkwood Street.

KEIGHLEY, PARKWOOD STREET 2

 

TUESDAY 16 SEPTEMBER – More work on the house with a break in the afternoon when we go up to Claire’s for tea.

KEIGHLEY, PARKWOOD STREET 3

 

WEDNESDAY 17 SEPTEMBER – Visit the Corneal laser centre in Leeds for a final check up on my laser surgery, no problems.  Evening at Rod & Nancy’s with a Chinese take away.

KEIGHLEY, PARKWOOD STREET 4

 

THURSDAY 18 SEPTEMBER – Evening meal at Sandra’s where we stop overnight.

KEIGHLEY, SANDRA’S

 

FRIDAY 19 SEPTEMBER – Steve’s 43^rd birthday.  Tie in a few last minute jobs, currency, computer battery, letting agents, Skipton investment bonds.  Take Claire and Daz out for a meal at the Beeches in the evening.

KEIGHLEY, PARKWOOD STREET 5

 

SATURDAY 20 SEPTEMBER – Take Claire on another shopping trip to get things for Daniel and over to the Damart sale.  Evening at Richard and Sharon’s.

KEIGHLEY, PARKWOOD STREET 6

 

SUNDAY 21 SEPTEMBER – A late dinner at Claire’s as everything has to fit in around Daniel’s feeding times. 

KEIGHLEY, PARKWOOD STREET 7

 

MONDAY 22 SEPTEMBER – Claire takes us to the airport along with Daniel and we have a very tearful farewell.  Flight delayed by just 1 hour this time, aren’t Turkish airlines doing well.  Barry and Cicek are there to meet us back in TURKEY and it almost feels like we are coming home.  Feel much more at home abroad now than back in England. 

ISTANBUL, SARIYER

 

TUESDAY 23 SEPTEMBER – Barry needs to renew his 3-month Turkish visa so we volunteer to join him for an overnight visit to Greece.  Cicek phones and confirms that the border crossing is open until 5pm but no one has confirmed this with the border guard who tell us it closed at 12 and will remain closed until 9am tomorrow.  Fortunately the border town of Edirne is only half and hour from Bulgaria so the day tri p to Greece is replaced with a day trip to BULGARIA.  Barry’s frustration is soon replaced with joy at finding out how cheap food and drink is in Bulgaria.  He can’t resist treating himself to a second ice cream at10p a time.  We eat in a bar at the local village of Svilengrad and then again in a restaurant near the border.  Kill time by playing a couple of hours pool.  In order to obtain another visa you must be out of t country for 1 calendar day to enable the new visa to show a different date of entry to that of departure.  We approach the border on the Bulgarian side at 11.30pm expecting a slow crossing but are processed very quickly and have to spend time in no mans land to avoid arriving in Turkey too soon.  Pass through the Turkish procedure very quickly but at the last barrier we find we are one stamp short on the documents and get sent back to the beginning to run the gauntlet for a second time before being allowed into TURKEY.  Arrive back in Istanbul at 4am for a short sleep in preparation for customs expedition number 2 to retrieve our van from Istanbul airport.

SARIYER 2

 

WEDNESDAY 24 SEPTEMBER – The usual Turkish slow antiquated procedure is in full flow as we arrive to collect our motorhome.  There is a definite art in ignoring people before taking two minutes to shuffle one piece of paper from one side of the desk to another – think they should be working in a main Post Office in England!  No problems with the van, it feels good to have our home back (or as most people would say good to be back home).

SARIYER 3

 

THURSDAY 25 SEPTEMBER – We have refused Barry & Cicek's kind offer  accompany them to the Embassy to sort out a few forms for their wedding!  Two days of officialdom on the trot is as much as we can cope with.  We spend the day restocking the van before lazing about.  In the evening we go to TGI  Fridays for a meal and try out the flaming cocktail where they pour alcohol from the bottle onto your already flaming alcohol filled glass.  You have to drink it as they pour to avoid the glass over flowing and the table catching alight.  Makes flaming sambucas look very tame.  After the meal we go to visit Alp (the man we played squash with) and his family at their flat in the city.  We help their eldest son Timor with his homework learning the English alphabet.  His natural mother is English but hadn’t taught him any English but his Turkish step mother Gamze realises that to get on he needs o speak English.

SARIYER 4

 

FRIDAY 26 SEPTEMBER -  Cicek’s mother Gulistan comes round to the house to put up some curtains she has made.  The Turkish tradition is for the brides mother to prepare the bedroom and deal with the decoration and furnishing of the new home.  Although she is only a couple of years older than me she looks older dressed as a traditional Muslim woman with her head covered in a scarf.  She tells me that on Cicek’s hen night it is traditional for the groom’s mother to put a gold coin in the brides hand after she has painted them with some green stuff.  As Barry’s mother isn’t coming she asks if I would like to do it.  After establishing that Barry will provide the coin, I agree. 

SARIYER 5

 

SATURDAY 27 SEPTEMBER – Back in tourist mode we visit Dolmabache Palace.  It’s very nice but a bit gloomy inside.  It has been built on reclaimed land at the side of the Bosporus and has beautiful gardens.  Inside everything you see which is yellow coloured is real gold and there are some enormous chandeliers.  Afterwards we visit Malta Kosku (Malta Pavilion) in Yidiz Park for an all you can eat buffet.  This is where the wedding reception will be held next Saturday evening and it’s a lovely spot.  In the evening we visit Cicek’s brothers house for a BBQ.  I have now been enlisted to video the wedding that may be a challenge as I don’t understand all the procedure.  Cicek’s brother Yavuz is delighted with the Tottenham Hotspurs pennant we have bought him and says it has been a childhood dream to own one.  His wife Cigdem is also pleased with the Elton John tape “Candle in the wind”, so pleased in fact that she leaves it playing continuously for over 1 hour.

SARIYER 6

 

SUNDAY 28 SEPTEMBER – Early in the afternoon I set out with Barry & Cicek to go to her friend’s wedding at Izmit.  Cicek says it is just outside Istanbul on the Asian side.  Although we leave at 2pm for the 4pm wedding we haven’t allowed enough time as it is actually 90km away.  First there’s an accident on the motorway slowing down the traffic and then we are delayed by procedure before we can enter the Naval Base where the wedding is being held.  We don’t have all the correct papers for the vehicle so have to park nearby and walk onto the base.  Arrive just before 4.30pm and see the last 5 minutes of the ceremony.  As we don’t understand what is happening anyway Barry and I are not too worried and at least we are in time for the food.  Wrong, a bottle of is served with a straw followed by a small plate with a few cheese straws and sweet biscuits.  The large plates and cutlery are just for show and 10 minutes after our arrival we are back in the car.  Barry assures me that their wedding will be a little different.  Back home I cook us double egg and chips followed by a dose of Faulty Towers – typical Turkish evening!

SARIYER 7

 

MONDAY 29 SEPTEMBER – A two-hour ferry hop from Sirkeci, Istanbul (£1 each way) takes you to the Princess Islands in the Sea of Marmara -  4 largish and a few small islands.  All of them ban motorized transport.  Our first port of call is Heybeliada where we wander the streets before eating lunch and then catching the complimentary boat over to the largest island, Buyukada.  Here we hire a horse and carriage to do a full tour of the island.  Lots of very nice wooden colonial style houses, beautiful scenery and shady pine forests that leave you wondering where in the world you are.  We arrive back in Istanbul to his the rush hour traffic and our ½ hour journey back takes 2 hours. Barry does a bit so shopping on the way from the people who walk up and down between the cars.  Four small carpet rugs and four assorted candy bars and purchased and roses, tissues, toolboxes and other bizarre things are rejected.

SARIYER 8

 

TUESDAY 30 SEPTEMBER – Steve & I take the motorhome up to Kilyos beach in the morning.  We are the only two people on the beach and even we give up when the clouds roll in.  Drive back to Barry where the sun stops us playing board games and entices out to sunbathe.  In the evening we go to the cinema at the Princess Hotel to see Con Air and follow it with a visit to Pizza Hut.  Do some more work on my computer and find it quite exciting to find a letter Netty put on it two weeks ago.

SARIYER 9

 

  

FRIDAY 1 AUGUST 1997 – Another hot and sunny day.  We lend the dinghy to Alex and Tudor, 17 year old boys who are hear on holiday with Monica and Mircea.  We play a bit of backgammon and end up with a crowd of on lookers calling out moves to us and nearly falling out over tactics.  Monica is upset when she finds “Hass” their Alsatian dog has eaten all their evening meal.  I offer to cook a pasta meal for the 6 of us.  In the afternoon the boys borrow our bikes and go off for a long ride.  Whilst they are away we attempt to mend a loose double-glazing panel in the van and end up with lots of help.  You’ve only got to produce a screwdriver here and crowds gather.  The boys are late back, about 2 miles away Tudor had a puncture and they had to walk the rest of the way. They are frightened that we will be mad and can’t believe it when we aren’t.  The meal works out well, Monica brings and egg plant and tomato salad for starters and rice and peppers to go with the pasta in case there isn’t enough to go round – she obviously doesn’t realise I am used to feeding Claire, David and Daz’s appetites.  There’s plenty of food left and Alex takes the left over pasta to have for breakfast as he enjoyed it so much. 

VAMA VECHE 3

 

SATURDAY 2 AUGUST – Spend the day on the beach, as it is again hot and sunny.  Monica and Mircea’s daughter Ioanna and boyfriend Cornell arrived in the night and we are invited to join them all for a meal tonight.   Steve plays boules with Mircea Alex and Tudor.  The meal is not so good for me, mashed aubergine tomatoes and green beans to start followed by polenta (a kind of casserole of feta cheese, Swiss cheese, corn flour and margarine, very greasy and with strong smelly cheese). Dessert makes up for it, home made mini doughnuts.  We have lots to drink (now very cheap with beer 20p ½ litre and wine 60p bottle) and good conversations.  Tomorrow I have offered o do a BBQ for everyone.   Thunder, rain and wind during the night.

VAMA VECHE 4

 

SUNDAY 3 AUGUST – A nice day.  Steve plays pool with Alex and Tudor.  There’s a slight problem with the BBQ when we run out of gas and have to cook it inside.  I explain that it is normal for the English to have to transfer the BBQ inside but it’s usually because of rain!  We want to phone Claire and Mum but thee is no direct dialling from Romania, you have to go to a telephone and these are normally at the Post Office and open weekdays.  We have also read that mail to and from the UK takes 14 days but mail between UK and Hungary, Bulgaria, Greece and Turkey only 3 days where they also have international direct dial telephones.  Another reminder of just how far Romania is behind the rest of Europe and even Eastern Europe.

VAMA VECHE 5

 

MONDAY 4 AUGUST - We try to phone home from the Vama Veche village PO but learn that from here you can only phone to the next town of Mangalia!  We are going into Constanta tomorrow with Mircea and as it is the second largest city in Romania we should be able to phone from there.  Steve plays boules in the evening with 3 other local men.  They are used to playing with plastic boules and are curious to try out our heavier French metal ones.  They are playing on the beach so they don’t roll at all and have to be thrown high and hard.  Manage an early night for once.

VAMA VECHE 6

 

TUESDAY 5 AUGUST – Mircea drives us into Constanta where we manage to phone Claire.  We visit the archaeological museum and see a huge intact mosaic floor, which is only 800m of the original 2000m.  The whole town is built upon the ancient town of Tomas (where the legendary Argonauts landed in search of the golden fleece) and lots of ruins are scattered around.  Constanta has a nice mosque and a casino on the seafront.  Drive north to look at one of the main tourist resorts of Mamaia, so touristy it even has a “Noddy” train.   Give Alex a “light bulb” style haircut using my clippers and he is delighted.  Pay the bill for camping 10,000 pppn + 2,000 pitch pn including electric.  That all equates to about £2 night. 

VAMA VECHE 7

 

WEDNESDAY 6 AUGUST – Sunbathe until about 2pm then pack up to leave.  Set off just after 4pm to drive back to Bucharest with Alex and Tudor in our van following Monica and Mircea towing their caravan.  Steve notices a kitten in the caravan window (Monica adopted 4 kittens on the campsite) but when he flashes Mircea to stop he finds out that Monica had hidden it there to take back to join her other 4 cats!  Get back to their house just after 9pm.  It’s a very old house, 1890, in the old part of the city and very run down with an overgrown garden.  It’s worth about £140,000 as it stands but needs £20,000 spending on it to repair ceilings cracked by the vibration of the trams, rotten windows and floors etc.  Mircea should be going to work in Qatar for 4 years from September and plans to save enough for the repairs and to retire on return.  We cannot get used to their meal times or the amount they eat.  The evening meal is at 11.30pm with salad & tuna, crackers, mushroom omelette, fruit, chocolate, popcorn and lots of bread.  Too much for us and too late but we eat a bit of everything (and for me a lot of he chocolate).   It’s 1am by the time we get to bed.

BUCHAREST

 

THURSDAY 7 AUGUST – At the local market produce is very cheap, corn on the cob 5p, new potatoes 8p kilo, cheese 40p lb, so what do we do – we buy a reclining chair £9 (Sandra you can use it if you come again) and for Steve some Adidas flip flops 90p and two vest T shirts £1.20 each.  The biggest problem for us is not buying stuff.    Returned for a late lunch (a nice mousaka) that lasted from 4pm – 5.30pm.

BUCHAREST 2

 

FRIDAY 8 AUGUST- Mircea takes us for a sightseeing day beginning at the Village Museum with a collection of over 300 houses, churches and building from around the country.  We then move to Revolution Square and from Mircea learn much about the communists, Ceausescu and the revolution.  See lots of old buildings, new ones built by the communists and some reconstructed since they were bombed.  Many of the churches are painted inside and out but because everyone burns a candle on entering the building the ceiling and high wall frescoes are covered in black smoke.  The communists moved some of the very ugly buildings back by 20 – 30 metres. The gas, water and electric were put on elastic cables and the buildings were moved with people and furniture inside.  Attractive facades were then built in front of them.  Had we not learnt about the communists whilst in China we would have found this hard to believe?  We try to find an International phone to wish Carol “Happy Birthday” but can’t.  Don’t know how long it will take me to post my letters and cards but will keep looking.  Sure makes us appreciate the British communication system.  Other points along our tour include the University library, Cismigiu gardens, The Savings Bank, National History Museum (formerly the PO).  Break for lunch at Ciru Bierra, a beer cellar.  In the afternoon new visit another park and yet more buildings and churches.  In the evening I cook some Yorkshire puddings and serve them with Bisto gravy granules, not my best attempt but greatly appreciated.  This is followed by another big meal and more drink and chatting.

BUCHAREST 3

 

SATURDAY 9 AUGUST – Today Mircea takes us on a walking sightseeing tour.  At the Russian Church they make offerings of cakes on Saturdays in remembrance of the dead.  We are given a huge chunk.  We walk the main Boulevard where Ceausescu had a church moved to one side so as not to spoil the look of the avenue.  He made sure the Boulevard was 200m longer than the Champs Elyses and 1m wider.  The People’s Palace is unbelievable with every room different.  Once room was so big the carpet would not fit through the door or windows so they removed the roof to lower it in.  The whole building and surroundings is a very expensive, massive communist folly that cost the Romanians so much.  1/6 of the city was demolished and people were offered a choice of 2 alternative homes and given 24 hours to move.  Building work was around the clock causing many accidents and deaths.  The figures quoted are amazing but we feel sure that it is a building for them to be proud of in the future, we were very impressed.  Back at Mircea’s Monica has cooked lamb, a special type of baby lamb that has own ever drunk milk and never eaten grass.  We are very honoured as they normally only eat it at Easter. We are also very lucky, as Monica had been trying to get a sheep’s head so that we could have an eye each but she couldn’t get one.  

BUCHAREST 4

 

SUNDAY 10 AUGUST – We wake early and leave at 6.45am to head for the border as we are expecting delays.  We drive south to Giurgiu where the first booth at the border want our vehicle documents and US$10 to cross the road bridge, the river being the actual border between Romania and Bulgaria.  At the next booth they demand $6 ecology tax and at the following booth 5 soldiers stops us and ask for cigarettes or $5 to speed up our passage.  We’ve already given our cigarettes to Mircea and are rapidly running out of dollars but a bag of mint imperials seems to have a similar effect.  Next stop passport control where an officer checks inside the van.  We’re on to the bridge where we are stopped for another passport check half way across.  We finally reach the Bulgarian customs and stop to pay $3 Bulgarian ecology tax, $1 road tax and finally $2 vehicle disinfect ion fees (you drive through a muddy trough of water).  After 2 hours we’ve run the full gauntlet and emerge in BULGARIA, a bit of a record as we had been warned the process would take at least ½ day.  Following us through is a British car and trailer, Charles, Karen and son Lawrence left England on Friday morning to drive to Turkey to combine a holiday with the collection of furniture.  They tell us about the recent murder of an English man in his camper van in Hungary, we never felt threatened there but are glad we have already passed through.  Drive to Varna on very good roads with almost no traffic until we get near the coast.  Notice different countryside with rolling hills and some long distance views.  We try the campsite at Kamchiya but there are too many trees and it’s only really suitable for tents.  At 3pm we arrive at Camping Luna near Obzor and between Varna and Burgas.  Bulgarian currency is Lev’s and we get about 3000LV = £1.  The camping is by the beach and cheap at 6,000LV (£2) including electric and warm showers.  The toilets are not brill but usable.  It’s windy and has rained a little so the sea is quite wild with big waves rolling in.  There are cliffs just north along the coast and you can see the hotels at Obzor 1km south.  I have just done our weekly accounts and Romania was very cheap for us.  We covered 740 miles, arrived with an empty fuel tank and left full and only spent £220 in 14 days.  In the evening we visit the campsite bar for a couple of beers and to watch the athletics on TV.  Paid for 2 beers then got offered 2 free glasses of white wine to try so Steve buys a cheese toasty to eat with it.  We are then asked to join the family drinking “Sainsburys” Bulgarian red wine and they offer us local fish with bread and peppers.  We try to pay but although they accept US$1 they only really wanted 50c for the cheese toasty as the rest was on the house.  A German couple tell us that since communism ended in 1990 this site has been nearly empty instead of being full because standards are dropping hence the state of the toilets. 

OBZOR, CAMPING LUNA – 205 MILES

 

MONDAY 11 AUGUST – It’s a cloudy, breezy but warm day and perfect for a walk along the beach to Obzor, another “has been” area now old and run down with only a few hotels open.  We buy a “Robson & Jerome” tape “Take Two”, £2.20.  It’s sealed and has a stamp to show it is original but we have our doubts.  Return along t road and check out he “Polska Camping” area of our site.  It’s very bleak with tin huts crammed together and fully occupied.  The toilets are smelly and dirty.  Makes us realise just how well off we are in England when these people are here on holiday and no doubt think themselves lucky.  Take an evening meal at the campsite restaurant and are joined by the German couple Erich and his wife who are celebrating their 35^th wedding anniversary.

OBZOR, CAMPING LUNA 2

 

TUESDAY 12 AUGUST – Our drive south takes us to Nesebur, a very nice old town on a small island.  The local houses are stone on the ground flour then wood higher up and most attractive.  Most people here are British tourists on a day trip from nearby Sunny Beach.  A couple from Settle tell us it is over 90F in England; here it is warm but cloudy with intermittent rain.  Have a look at Sunny Beach but it is very touristy and the campsite run down and basic but charging £15 night.  A bit further south is Pomorie where the basic Europa Camping charges US$10 but at least it’s on the beach.  We telephone Barry in Istanbul and he repeats his invitation to join him, which we shall do pretty soon if the weather doesn’t improve.  At least in Istanbul we can do some sightseeing if the weather is poor.  Everyone is saying this is the worst summer weather they can remember with no sign of improvement verified by more heavy rain in the night. 

POMORIE, EUROPA CAMPING  - 56 MILES

 

WEDNESDAY 13 AUGUST – We leave the site early to try and get some gas.  There’s a big queue in Pomorie so we drive on to Burgas but still have to queue for 45 minutes.  There are two figures on the pump, one the number of a litres and the other the price in Levs.  Initially we haven’t figured out which is which so when are asked for 13750 Levs (£5) we pay it but just down the road we twig that this represented 13.75 litres of gas (as the meter showed 10ths of litres) and we should have paid 6200 Levs (£2).  Just south of Sozopol we see a sign for FKK (naturist) Camping Wesselie.  We take over the site that Australian Catherine and sister and Dad from Poland are just vacating. It’s a drizzly afternoon and but we meet Bruce from England and his Bulgarian partner and chat to them.  The beach is naturist and the people in the tents immediately behind it are nude all the time but you have to dress for the main part of the campsite as it is in view of the main road. 

SOZOPOL, CAMPING  WESSELIE – 38 MILES

 

THURSDAY 14 AUGUST – Cycle into Sozopol, a nice town with lots of market stalls and old wooden houses.  We are tempted by a harbour side café and have drinks and chicken noodle soup with bread for a total of 85p.  The afternoon is much nicer so we spend time on the beach by the campsite.  Think the bad weather may be over as 6 people begin tidying up the debris on the beach. 

SOZOPOL, CAMPING WESSELIE 2

 

FRIDAY 15 AUGUST – We spend the day on the beach, the sea is lovely, clean and with a sandy bottom.  In fact it’s the best beach so far.  Steve returns to the van to get some wine, bread and cheese for lunch and just about gets to the door when he remembers he should have put clothes on.  He hides himself behind the rucksack and disappears inside.

SOZOPOL, CAMPING WESSELIE 3

 

SATURDAY 16 AUGUST – Another scorcher of a day.  I decide to defrost the chicken and roast it for tea.  I put my hands inside to remove the giblets and am horrified to pull out the head and two feet.  We cycle 2km down the coast to look at Dunes Resort vacation village.  The nearest thing we have seen to western standards but not surprising at $70 night.  They have a motorised hang glider that lands in the sea and charge and extortionate $25 for a 10-minute ride.  We return to the campsite beach which is very busy with day-trippers but when we return in the evening it is almost empty and the water lovely and warm.

SOZOPOL, CAMPING WESSELIE 4

 

SUNDAY 17 AUGUST – My early morning swim is very refreshing.  Late in the afternoon we take a walk along the beach.  Steve spots a wine bottle washed up on the shore and amazingly there is a “Message in a bottle” but it’s written in Bulgarian. Continue to the next campsite with a big supermarket and buy lots of wine at 35p bottle.  Walk back along the main road and spot a car go past towing a trailer with a big brown bear in.  Steve thought he saw a bear the other day tied on the back of a horse and cart but I didn’t believe him at the time, now I do.  We ask someone at our campsite to translate the message from the bottle and discover that people on our site posted it yesterday.

SOZOPOL, CAMPING WESSELIE 5

 

MONDAY 18 AUGUST – Another hot day with clear blue skies.  We walk to another campsite and phone Barry and Claire.  It’s very romantic down on the beach at night as it’s a full moon. 

SOZOPOL, CAMPING WESSELIE 6

 

TUESDAY 19 AUGUST – Hot again so day on the beach. Few clouds in the morning and strong waves at sea.

SOZOPOL, CAMPING WESSELIE 7

 

WEDNESDAY 20 AUGUST – Another hot day on the beach.  In the evening Steve goes to watch football whilst I join our German neighbours Bernt, Ellie and 2 boys in their motorhome.

SOZOPOL, CAMPING WESSELIE 8

 

THURSDAY 21 AUGUST – A warm but windy day and we are the only ones on the beach tucked away behind our wind break English style.  We don’t stay for long and upon returning to the van we find a big ant problem.  They have climbed along the electric cable and are now inside.  We have a spray to kill them but then end up having to completely clean to get rid of the corpses.  Settle the bill for camping at 12920 Lev (£4.50) per day. 

SOZOPOL, CAMPING WESSELIE 9

 

FRIDAY 22 AUGUST – Set off at 7.30am and arrive at the border at 9.30am.  No problem at the first Bulgarian passport control but at the second checkpoint we are told off for following a bus through and not stopping behind the white line.  Next stop is the first Turkish check point where we are issued with a sheet listing 8 checks to be completed and rubberstamped.  1- Doctor for a health check, 2- Pay $4 for disinfections, 3- Pay £20 for visa, 4- Get passport stamped and visa entered, 5- Have vehicle documents checked, 6- Clear customs, 7- Have all the paperwork checked, 8- Final passport clearance.  You must do the checks in the correct order and if you don’t tip the clerk they keep you waiting even longer.  The whole procedure takes us 2 ½ hours and much hassle but not bad compared to someone who told us they took 14 hours.  Fortunately most of the countries we want to visit are in the EU.  In TURKEY we go straight onto the motorway towards Istanbul.  Phone Barry from a service station and he gives us directions to a place near his house where we can phone from.  The motorway around Istanbul is quite an experience.  Outside the city centre are huge new developments of brightly coloured flats (pink, purple, orange) mingled with minarets.  The traffic is horrendous and manoeuvres are accompanied by lots of horn hooting.  Dust blows up everywhere as the surface is churned up.  There seem to be few rules other than size prevails which could work to our advantage.  The exit we need is blocked off so take the next one and try to head off in the right general direction.  Everyone is very helpful in giving directions but we still end up getting lost and wind up in a village on the banks of the Bosporus.  I think I have seen a phone booth but there is only a slot for a card and no one sells them.  In the end a man in a café says we can use his telephone.  After we have spoken to Barry he asks us to pass the phone to someone Turkish.  Another customer takes the phone, jabbers in Turkish then hangs up.  He tells us to wait in the café so we order some drinks.  When we come to pay for the phone call and the drinks the proprietor tells us the customer who helped with the phone call paid our bill before he left.  Barry & his Turkish fiancée Cicek arrive 10 minutes later.  Cicek had asked the customer where we were and told him they would come and collect us.  We ask about phone cards and learn that the “phone box” was actually a bank ATM and they don’t have phone boxes, as we know them.  Barry travels with us in the motorhome back to their home at Sariyer.  It’s a beautiful spot on a new development of large detached houses and they are renting theirs.  They take us out to a lovely fish restaurant on the riverbank for a Mezes (assorted hor d'oeuvres) followed by grilled fish then fruit washed down with raki.  A wonderful welcome to Turkey.  Barry drops Cicek at her home because until they get married she must be home by 11pm as her family are Muslims.  Barry must convert before they can marry but a Muslim man can marry a woman of any religion.  Cicek is very westernised having met Barry when she lived in England but her family are not. 

ISTANBUL, SARIYER – 237 MILES

 

SATURDAY 23 AUGUST – We are woken at about 5am by the distant wailing from a mosque.  After breakfast we collect Cicek and she and Barry take us into Istanbul.  We visit the backpacker’s area and book our flight back to England for when Claire has her baby.  After breakfast we walk to Aya Sofia, a basilica that was once the largest church in Christ but now converted to Muslim.  Barry hires a guide for a private tour, a 70-year-old man who is very funny.  Next we walk to Sultan Ahmet Camii commonly known as the Blue Mosque.  There are many young boys in smart suits with velvet and gold capes and wearing crowns.  Barry says they are celebrating having just been circumcised and says they are wearing Chop Suey-t’s.  The blue mosque is very nice and named after the blue tiles inside.  Next stop Kapali Carsi (the grand bazaar) with over 4000 shops in a maze of arcades grouped together by trade.  Goldsmiths, leather and fabric stalls abound.  Returning to the car we stop off in a restaurant where a Turkish band are playing and lades are sat in the middle cooking “gozleme”, a type of pancake.  A visit to a cake shop rounds off a super day.  Our initial impression of Istanbul is that it is much less stressful and far more interesting than we had anticipated.

SARIYER 2

 

SUNDAY 24 AUGUST – Head off to the squash courts where Barry, Steve and myself are joined by Alp, a Turkish man who works at the Australian embassy.  After I play and beat him he says he was just being a gentleman in letting me win 9 – 0.  His wife Gamze joins us and we have a chat in the bar.  In the evening we have drinks on a boat anchored at the side of the Bosporus.

SARIYER 3

 

MONDAY 25 AUGUST – Barry takes us into the city to the British embassy.  Having arrived in a vehicle it is stamped on Steve’s passport and we need permission to leave the country without it.  Unfortunately the embassy is closed because it is a bank holiday in England.  Drive over the bridge to the Asian part of Istanbul and visit a flea market at Uskudar.  We take in a couple of mosques before driving to the top of Buyuk Camlica hill for fine views accompanied by afternoon tea.  Early evening we visit Orta Koy, the trendy district, to try and find the Hard Rock café but it is an imitation.  We decide to go on a river cruise so pick up a quick snack from the jacket potato stalls before taking our 1-hour trip along the Bosporus 75p.  There are some huge jellyfish in the water, about 1 foot in diameter, not a tempting place for a swim.

SARIYER 4

 

TUESDAY 26 AUGUST - Manage to get the information for leaving the country without the van.  We have to leave it in a customs secure compound at the airport and this involves considerable paperwork and expense.  We collect our flight tickets then walk to Yerebatan Sarayi, an underground water cistern.  Built for Emperor Constantine to collect water for his two palaces it also contained fish to supply the palace kitchens.  Locals living above got to hear about this and drilled wells to lower their boats down and go fishing.  It has now been drained and the supporting columns exposed to reveal many pilfered from other monuments.  Two have heads of medusa and others have writing and carvings.  Walk through a local park to get to the black market where they sell electrical goods.  The is followed by a visit to the colourful, noisy, smelly and exciting Egyptian spice market.  For supper we have freshly grilled and filleted fish “buttie” on the riverside.

SARIYER 5

 

WEDNESDAY 27 AUGUST – Take the ferry to the Asian side of the river for Cicek to get her wedding dress fitted at Kadi Koy.  Walk around the won and visit Carrefours to do some shopping.  Back on the European side we go to a fish restaurant just north of Sariyer, Rumeli Kauaci, but get ripped off when we are charged almost £50 for 4 meals.  £20 is for 3 medium sized fish; the man says they are more expensive because they are fresh!  We have to agree with Barry that they are “taking the piss”.

SARIYER 6

 

THURSDAY 28 AUGUST - At the airport we check out the procedure for storing the motorhome.  Visit Topkapi Palace and harem.  The buildings are not up to much, more like simple museum buildings in gardens.  However the history about the harem is very interesting and the treasury holds the 5^th largest diamond in the world.  A quick visit to the archaeological museum before picking up groceries at the supermarket to make French bread pizzas.  Barry & Cicek go round to Alps in the evening and we do some video editing.

SARIYER 7

 

FRIDAY 29 AUGUST – Take the van to Attaturk airport to check it into the customs area.  The paperwork is completed in just less than 3 hours and that’s with Cicek doing the translating.  In the afternoon we go to Belgrade forest for lunch and a walk.  Daz phones in the evening to say that Claire is in hospital with high blood pressure and they may induce the baby tomorrow. 

SARIYER 8

 

SATURDAY 30 AUGUST – Steve and Barry both have upset stomachs and as toilets leave a lot to be desired in Turkey they don’t want to venture out.  Fit in some sunbathing until early afternoon when we get a rain and thunderstorm.  At this point we go to Carsi to do some shopping and I buy an outfit to wear at Barry and Cicek’s wedding.  We decide on a light tea and I cook boiled eggs as they are supposed to be binding.  One is mouldy inside so eggs this may have caused the stomach problems as we had Welsh rarebit last night made with eggs.   Steve is now quite poorly and rapidly loosing his beer belly.  2am Turkish time we get a phone call from England, Claire has had a quick labour and produced a boy at 8.45pm weighing 7lb 70z.  Mother and baby doing well.  

SARIYER 9

 

SUNDAY 31 AUGUST – We wake up late after a restless night following the exiting baby news.  For lunch we got to a pizza place and sit out on the terrace taking in the view.  In front of us is a field of half built houses and Barry explains that the Turkish system is to build to this stage then wait for a buyer.  Once sold the builder finishes the house and builds the road as far as it.  They houses at the back of the estate won’t be sold until last as it would be too expensive to put all the road in at once.  We get back to the house and Cicek arrives and gives us the tragic news about Princess Diana’s death.  We are totally shocked and pick up more information on the short wave radio.  In the evening we visit Cicek’s brother Yavuz and his wife Cigdem.  We have Turkish tea and cake followed by Turkish coffee complete with a coffee cup reading by Yavuz.  Mine shows a map with lots of roads – wonder what put that idea into his heads!

SARIYER 10

 

 

TUESDAY 1 JULY 1997 – Went to collect aqua park tickets and the awkward man who checked us in had marked our forms 10% discount instead of the tickets  Finally managed to sort it out with new receptionist and we now get both the discount and tickets (get the feeling we were being conned).  Got to Aquatica entrance and they tried to charge us a reduced price instead of it being free – again after much hassle we got in for free.  Nice Aqua Park, fairly quiet.  Went on every slide a number of times.  Nice ride with a toboggan where they shoot you down a steep slide and you skim over the pool.  Hot all day with just a few clouds.  Checked out the restaurant at Aqua Park for an evening meal.  Menu of the day 18,000 lire (£7).  Went back for meal which was very good but the bill showed separate prices for each course totally 23,000lire.  Waiter said 18,000 were lunchtime price for everyone or evening price for aqua park staff!  Again we had to argue to get the price that was shown.  Don’t know if this is typical of Milan or they don’t like English here but we certainly felt they were trying to rip us off at every opportunity. 

MILAN CAMPSITE

 

WEDNESDAY 2 JULY – Left site around 2pm to take Sandra to the airport.  Saw more roadside prostitutes on outskirts of Milan baring their boobs (or maybe they were topless sunbathing).  Dropped Sandra off and drove to Vicenza to U.S. base Ederle.  We had been told they may be able to help us with the ABS problem.  Arrived at 6.15pm but the garage closed at 6.00pm.  The nice MP on the gate said we could stay overnight on base in the military campsite.  Quite a few other Americans are camping here ready for the 4^th July celebrations, which start tomorrow.  Had a walk to cinema, bowling, PX and burger king.  Game of bowling only $1.50.

VICENZA, EDERLE U.S. BASE 54 MILES

 

THURSDAY 3 JULY – Woken at 6.30am to “Reveille” – worse than Butlins.  Went shopping and bought loads of pop (24 cans of Pepsi $2.99).   We didn’t have the correct ID when we got to the check out but a kind man behind us put it on his bill and we paid him back.  Luckily I brought a selection of currencies with us so had plenty of US dollars to pay with. We used the laundrette (very cheap $1.75 huge wash and $1 dry) and at the garage got an oil & filter change on engine and generator. The man who operates the ABS testing machine was not working until Monday so I went to ask permission to stay on the base until then.  That was when we found out we should not have been there at all.  The deputy chief of police interviewed me and could not understand how we had “infiltrated” the camp last night and whilst it was not our fault we certainly could not stay any longer.  He did however direct us to an American truck dealer in town who could help.  .  The American truck dealer “Carolli” was just closing for lunch when we arrived at 11.45 and said come back at 2.00.  Returned to find their machine was faulty and being repaired in the States.  Back to base where we arrange to be escorted to the forces garage on Monday morning.  The celebrations on base are open to the public from 5pm so we parked down a side street and returned to join in.  Entertainment includes red devil parachute display, line dancing, comedians etc.  We have a go at the parachute jump from a practice tower and both land badly.  Steve hurt a finger and I hurt my wrist and bottom, just when we were recovering from our aqua park sores.  Had a good night but drank too much, double wine $1.50, large beer $2.  This is like a holiday in America within our European holiday – great.

VICENZA

 

FRIDAY 4 JULY – Went swimming at the local outdoor pool all day and got permission to park there overnight.  Went onto the base and saw karaoke.  Couple of games of bowling and then watched 4^th July firework display, which was very good.  Had difficulty leaving as all the streets were heaving with people still trying o get in to the base.  The other problem was that the streets were full of parked cars and instead of our van being on its own in a quiet spot we find ourselves completely surround and couldn’t move if we wanted to.  All goes quiet after about 1am.

VICENZA – 26 MILES

 

SATURDAY 5 JULY – Walk to bank and supermarket then spend the day in the swimming pool.  Moved to another area to park as we are not going to the base tonight and don’t want to be surrounded again.  End up down a quiet little cul de sac then found trains and two lots of church bells chiming to disturb us.

VICENZA

 

SUNDAY 6 JULY – Drove into Vicenza and saw Teatro Olimpico, basilica and streets with lots of Palladian buildings (names after Andrea Palladio who designed them all and came from Vicenza).  Wandered around until early afternoon, very hot so drove back out to park near US.  We are having a mild drinking day today.  I noticed that the cartons of “long life” milk Steve had bought the other day were actually fresh milk and now out of date.  Milky soup and Angel Delight washed down with a pint of milk for tea tonight.  Another good evening on the base, line dancing (I recognised and joined in with Tush Push, Watermelon Crawl, Easy come easy go, Electric Slide, Armadillo and Sleazy Slide) to a live band.  More ten pin bowling, more food and drink.  Phoned Sandra and heard she got back safely.

VICENZA 5 – 9 MILES

 

MONDAY 7 JULY – Up very early at 7.30am to meet man at US Base.  It turned out the computed could only do some of the checks as it was for many vehicle and not specifically Ford.  Couldn’t get to the bottom of the ABS problem so gave up and headed for SLOVENIA.  Received bad information on the border, were told ATM (bank cash) machines were scarce and also that there was a naturist beach at Piran.  We wanted to visit the beach so changed $20 travel cheques at 3% commission, bought a map and phone card and ended up with about $3 worth of Slovenian tollars.  ATM’s were everywhere , change was commission free everywhere else and the naturist beach did not exist.  We were following road signs to Koper which vanished and we could only see Capidostra (which we now know is the same place) so doubled back and got very lost involving about 20 miles detour along bumpy windy roads.  Gave up on the coast after Piran and headed towards the capital of Ljublijana.  Stopped at Postojna to see the caves.  Fantastic.  We saw 5km of the 29km network, partly by train and partly by foot.  Have seen many caves but the excelled even cheddar caves, the caves of Drach and Gibraltar.  Stayed the night at a campsite just up the road at Pivka Jama (Steve wonders if it translates to pyjamas). 

PIVKA JAMA – 220 MILES

 

TUESDAY 8 JULY – Up the road at Predjamski Grad we visit the castle built onto a cliff cave and ex home of Erazem.  Lots of history, very attractive and interesting to go round.  Headed towards Hungary via Ljubljana and Maribor.  Had a bit of hassle trying to et petrol just before the border as none of the garages would take credit cards, ended up paying cash in sterling (the good old pound is still highly valued). Also felt the benefit of being British at the border.  There were queues under the signs I, A, CH, SLO and HR but no sign for GB so we asked a policeman which lane and he opened up another one and led us straight through whilst the others had their vehicles searched.  Drove just into HUNGARY to a campsite at the spa town of Lenti.

LENTI – 198 MILES

 

WEDNESDAY 9 JULY – Went to the local supermarket.  Food and drink cheap, wine 50p bottle, beer 25p litre.  There is a thermal bath just over the road from the campsite so we will go there today and move on tomorrow.  Excellent baths, only 50p admission to 4 outdoor pools of different temperatures (one a swimming pool) plus  1x50m Olympic indoor pool, 2 indoor thermal pools and 2 more half covered “medicinal” pools.  Had a nice lunch, Steve goulash and large beer and me a Wiener schnitzel and large wine all for less than £3.  Late afternoon snack of “latsos” a kind of pancake/doughnut topped with sour cream and grated cheese washed down with a few beers.  All very civilised.  Sat out in the sun until 7pm. Your may have guessed we like our first impression of Hungary.

LENTI 2

 

THURSDAY 10 JULY – Did a bit more shopping at an even cheaper supermarket – 5 litre box of wine £1, crusty bread rolls 3p.  Drove to Camping Naturista Balatonbereny on the edge of Lake Balaton.  This is Europe’s largest lake (45 miles x 8 ½ miles) very long and narrow with resorts all along the edges.  The water is warm and 3’ – 4’ deep for about 400 metres with a sandy bottom.  We took the dingy and air bed out for a few hours, great fun.  We hear English spoken in a Yorkshire accent and the moment we see a man with a knotted handkerchief on his head we know where it is coming from.  Joan & Keith are from Hebden Bridge and on holiday here with their campervan.  Between us we are the only English to visit the site this season so it’s chance that we are here together.  Tomorrow night we have been invited to a party for our row in the caravan park.  A lady came round and took our order for beef cutlets and asked me to bring a tomato salad (what’s that) – anyway we wangle an invite for Keith and Joan even though they are in a different row and Joan is doing the tomato salad and I am now doing chips, dips and popcorn.

LAKE BALATON, CAMPING NATURISTA BALATONBERENY - 46 MILES

 

FRIDAY 11 JULY – It blew up very windy late last night and throughout the night we had storms, thunder, lightening and hail.  Very noisy on the van roof.  By 9am the sky was blue and the weather hot.  Mum’s off to Canada today to visit Auntie Joan for 3 weeks, hope she has a good trip.  Weather not brilliant through day but no more rain. Willie & Susannah had a drink with us in the afternoon and talked about Greece and Turkey in a motorhome.   Street party very good.  The cutlets cost us 50p each and everyone said how nice the dips were.  We ended up trying lots of foreign drinks.  Steve took along a bottle we had bought in Lenti and it turned out to be thermal spa water and tasted foul.  Everyone had a taste and a good laugh because we bough it thinking it was beer – glad we didn’t buy a case of 24.  At one stage Steve had 4 drinks on the go and was talking excellent German!  Yet another “never again” drinking night.

LAKE BALATON 2

 

SATURDAY 12 JULY – Had a go at windsurfing on Keith’s board.  We both have a few painful encounters with the mast but Steve really gets the hang of it by the end of the afternoon.  I master balancing and pulling the sail up but without anything on my feet I keep cutting them when I fall off.  Will try again tomorrow with some old pumps on.

LAKE BALATON 3

 

SUNDAY 13 JULY – Hot until early afternoon, took boat and air bed on lake.  Afternoon too windy for windsurfing.  Steve has gone to watch the Grand Prix with some other men on someone’s satellite TV and although they sat out for the first half the rain forced them in for the second part.  We now have thunder and lightening as well.  Everyone is saying how crazy the weather is and hat they have had far more rain this summer than ever before.  It’s not too bad for us but I feel sorry for people on holiday.  We are both very tanned now and hardly every use sun cream as we don’t seem to burn.  I still seem to attract the mozzies more than Steve but neither of us has been poorly other than self-inflicted hangovers.

LAKE BALATON 4

 

MONDAY 14 JULY – Drove to Piroska camping at Balaton Karattya, the other end of the lake.  Here the lake is a bit shallower and all sand underneath whereas at Balatonbereny in some parts there was weed and mussels on the bottom.  Apparently the lake is much higher this year because of all the rain and a cooler 20C inst3ead of the normal 24C.  The only other slight problem here is that we are on a naturist site sandwiched between two conventional sites so it can be a little embarrassing if your boat or airbed drifts the wrong way!  Had a meal at the restaurant on site, Steve had noodle soup followed by fish in a mushroom sauce and I had garlic soup followed by 3 chocolate pancakes.

LAKE BALATON, PIROSKA CAMPING – 54 MILES

 

TUESDAY 15 JULY – Left at lunchtime to drive to Budapest.  There are many old cars on the road, Skoda’s, Ladas, Trabants and Seats.  Can’t image English lads having street cred driving around in such a car with the windows down and pop music blasting out but here they proudly cruise around in them.  Check onto Fortuna Camping at Torokbalint on the SW outskirts of Budapest.  Spend the afternoon by the swimming pool.

BUDAPEST, FORTUNA CAMPING – 50 MILES

 

WEDNESDAY 16 JULY – 20p gets us by local bus into Budapest.  On the Pest side (the modern part of the city) of the river we take a tram to Szent Istvan-Baziliki (St Stephens Basllica) and also visit Neprajzi Museum (ethnography museum with rural life 19 and 20C), the houses of Parliament and Nyugati Palyaudvar (West station).  Take the metro to Millennium Emlekmo (Millennium monument in Hero square) then explore the city park and see Vajdahunyard Vara (castle) and the Szechenyl thermal baths.  Bus it to the Romanian Embassy before walking over Elizabeth Bridge (chain bridge) to the Buda side.  Good job public transport in Budapest is cheap, 20p for bus train or metro. Incidentally they were the first place in Europe’s to have a subway back in the late 19^th century.  Over on the hilly Buda side of the river the attractions are spread out over many hills.  We climb the Gellert Hill to the citadel for superb views.   They’ve still got a long way to go in restoring old churches etc but what they have done is excellent.  In the Gellert Hotel we make use of the naturist sun terrace for all of 10 minutes before black clouds appear followed shortly after by thunder, lightening and rain. 

BUDAPEST 2

 

THURSDAY 17 JULY – At lunchtime we set of back to explore Buda.  Catch the funicular up to Budavari Palota (Royal Castle) with huge buildings and good views over the Danube and Pest.  There are also lots of nice statues and fountains (especially King Mathias fountain) outside and museum halls inside.  The history museum has an underground passages leading to a Gothic chapel.  Walk around the castle district, which is heaving with tourists, coaches and horses, street museums and the associated prices.  Lots to see in this area including a Gothic church turned into a mosque by the Turks, the Hilton Hotel built into the remains of a church and cloisters and the Fisherman’s Bastions (like a castle wall look out point) with more super views.  Spend a few hours absorbing the atmosphere and wandering up and down streets with medieval houses and baroque mansions.  Definitely prefer Buda to Pest.  “An English Patient” is showing at a cinema in Pest with English subtitles.  At £1.60 it’s a bargain and most appropriate to see now as it is about a Hungarian in the war.  Next we go for a bite to eat. Steve has Chinese duck, I have two doner kebabs and a drink and the total bills is only £3.20.  Finally we take a 20p tram ride all along the Pest riverbank to see Buda and many boats and bridges floodlit.  Tour buses to see the same thing charge £5.  End up in a bar by the bus stop where a large beer and a large wine total 85p proving that away from the tourist traps Budapest is a cheap city to eat and drink in.  Arrive back at the site just after 11pm.

BUDAPEST 3

 

FRIDAY 18 JULY – Woken at 1am with thunder and lightening.  The second flash is directly above us and puts the campsite electricity off.  The storm moves on but it rains until 8am.  Read in a newspaper that Czech Republic and Slovakia had torrential rain last week and are receiving aid from Hungary.  We drive south following the Danube River to Duna Foldvar and Kek Duna Camping.  There is supposed to be a naturist beach by the river here but it is so flooded all you can see are the treetops at the edge.  Prices are even lower here.  A large beer and wine in the town centre bar total only 55p.  I can’t resist a slice of gateau at the confections priced at 20p.  Rain on and off all day. 

DUNAFOLDVAR, KEK DUNA CAMPING – 50 MILES

 

SATURDAY 19 JULY – More intermittent rain.  Head towards Szeged via Kecskemet passing fields full of sunflowers (seeds and oil are very cheap here) and lots of goose farms.  Just north of Szeged we try to park to get some bread.  Reversing along the side of the road we hear a bit of a clunk.  I think we’ve hut something but Steve says we’ve just dropped off the edge of the road and attempts to move forward.  This is when we hear a lot of noise and stop to investigate.  By the side of the road is a lamppost with a flagpole sticking out at campervan roof height.  We have caught the awning on it and moving forward has ripped it off.  Pieces are strewn by the road so we gather up the broken parts and prop the awning back as well as possible.  There’s a campsite nearby and after checking onto it the receptionist phones up a couple of local men (L Antman 06 20 43 14 14) who come round at assess the damage.  It was only a small bump at low speed but has caused a lot of damage.  The awning is on tension springs and unless we get it fixed properly it either won’t work or will open whilst we are driving along.  The men leave at 3.30pm and say they will get back to us.  Whiling away the afternoon we notice a battered old caravan parked opposite getting lots of use.  We deduce that the local prostitutes bring their clients here with visits ranging from a few minutes up to 20 minutes.    By 7.30pm the men haven’t returned so Steve pops up toe reception so see what is happening, as we are concerned that nothing will be done until Monday.  It turns out they have taken the broken pieces to someone else but should be back at 10am tomorrow.  TV news is of torrential rain causing problems in Germany and Czech lands so we are not surprised to get more wind and rain through the night.

SLATYMAZ, EUROCAMP – 83 MILES

 

SUNDAY 20 JULY – No one comes at 10am as promised but later we are asked to drive to their garage over the road.  Walk into town for a meal but waste the rest of the day just waiting around.  They finally tell us they can’t do anymore today but invite us to drive round the back to park in their garden.

SLATYMAZ, ANTMANS GARAGE

 

MONDAY 21 JULY – The brackets can’t be repaired so they are going to take them somewhere to have new ones made and these should be ready by 4pm.  Take a bike ride into the local village stopping for a beer and ice cream sundae (guess who had which?).  Call at the shop for milk and break, they have no rolls but the lady offers me 1/3 large load.  She asks me if I would like it sliced and then proceeds to cut it herself with an ordinary bread knife!  No sign of the brackets at 4pm.  The garden belongs to the garage family and I help the ladies weeding the vegetable plot whilst Steve tries to mend the brakes on our bikes.  We are surrounded by chickens and they keep coming up to us.  There are 11 in total and a mix of white, cream, grey brown and black and all very cute.  The house here has an outside toilet at the bottom of the garden and no telephone but a huge satellite dish for the TV!  The man comes back at 6.30pm and Lati and his partner work until 10pm to get it fixed.  An excellent job although it does stick at bit.  During the evening a man comes round in a flashy car and is joined by a girl.  Lati explains that he is the local pimp and she is one of his many prostitutes. The pimp earns over £1000 week from his girls, lives in a huge house with swimming pool and keeps in business by paying back handers to the local police.  All very interesting.

SLATYMAZ 3

 

TUESDAY 22 JULY – The total bill for the job is £100, £66 for the brackets to be made (apparently the man realised they were American parts from a vehicle belonging to a tourist so bumped his price up) and £34 for labour so not too bad at all. Make it safely to the naturist site at Szeged where we receive mail from England.  It’s a nice small site with a lake for swimming.  A record low for drinks with a large beer and wine only 50p in total.  With the addition of 2 meals our final bill is just £1.35.  Already we have met an American Ricky and an Australian Ross so it’s nice to have a proper conversation in English.  The weather is good so we sunbathe and top up our tan.  Chat and drink in the bar until midnight.

SZEGED, NATURIST CAMPSITE - 15 MILES

 

WEDNESDAY 23 JULY – Hot and sunny all day.  It’s sports week on site with lots of competitions throughout the day.  Steve plays in the pool competition and wins against Ross.  Can’t resist the 15p chocolate crepes from the snack bar.  Lots of people have brought inflatables to use on the lake.  Some shaped like arm chairs with pedals and other like big islands with palms trees stuck up, makes my air bed look very plain.  Think Steve has too much sun as he retired to bed at 7pm with a headache.

SZEGED 2

 

THURSDAY 24 JULY – More mail arrives for us including the green card insurance for Romania.  Steve enters the long jump competition and comes next to last; hope he does better in the pool tournament this afternoon.  Steve makes it through to the pool final but as this is not until Saturday we shall stay here a bit longer.  Other races being held include sack races, table tennis and volleyball.  The Hungarian children don’t have computers and videos and seem happy to play cards, connect 4 and board games.  You hear a lot of music around the site from people sitting out playing guitars, accordions or just singing.  Once again rain, thunder and lightening through the night.

SZEGED 3

 

FRIDAY 25 JULY – The rain stops by afternoon so we take a walk out down the lane but have to turn back as it is flooded.  Bit of sun in the afternoon.  Evening in bar chatting to Marcus from Switzerland.  Ricky comes back to the van for coffee.

SZEGED 4

 

SATURDAY 26 JULY – Ross & Ricky take us to the flea market in Szeged.  It’s a strange market with people selling produce, new goods, car boot type stuff and very very fresh fish – kept in a tank and sold still flapping.  Steve wins the pool tournament beating an American Ricky then German Lowther in the final.  Sunny but windy thorough the day.

SZEGED 5

 

SUNDAY 27 JULY – Leave at 9am and spend our last few florints before driving on to ROMANIA.  Buy visas and currency at he border and meet Englishman Barry who lives near Istanbul.  He invites us to stay and offers a place for us to store the van when we fly back to England after Claire has the baby.  It’s quite a shock travelling in Romania; the roads are terrible with poor surfaces, lots of pothole and areas where the road has completely disappeared.  All the bridges are in a bad state of repair with sheets of metal covering the biggest gaps.  At the side of the street people sit selling local produce off a picnic table or they have tablecloths hanging up for sale.  There are lots of gypsies (not surprising as the original romanies were from here) some with carthorses and traditional vans with lots of pans hung up outside.  The currency is the LEI with around 12000 = £1.  The largest note is 10000 (90p) so you have wads of dosh.  They don’t have any ATM’s at the banks because they couldn’t fit enough notes in!  We have to drive 250 miles before we find a campsite.  The sites shown on the map turn out to be full of ancient decrepit huts for rent with no space to fit a large van like ours.  We finally find a site near Sibu.  The couple next to us have just come back from Bulgaria and tell us on the way there they left here at 6.30am and had to drive until 11pm to find a campsite.  The country is poor so it is unsafe to stay overnight anywhere else.  Have an evening meal in the campsite restaurant (£1 bottle of wine).  Very nice and not expensive but the meal was for more than the menu showed as they charge separately for bread, tomatoes etc.

SIBU, CAMPING DUMBRAVA – 257 MILES

 

MONDAY 28 JULY – Though we had left early until we found out that Romania is 1 hour ahead of Hungary so we left at 8am instead of 7am!  Bram Castle is where Bran Stokers Dracula was based but unfortunately it is closed on Mondays.  Take some photographs then drive to a campsite just south of Brashov.  55,000 night (£5). The toilets are vile, all Turkish style, chipped, dirty and smelly – thank goodness we have our own.  Steve has to do a few repairs each time we stop, the bumpy roads make the screws in the cupboards and on the double glazing panels work lose.  Take a taxi into Brashov (75p for 10k).  Another culture shock seeing the shops, they seem to all sell oddments of everything in or on very old wooden counters with drawers.  For example we see one shop selling soap powder, wedding dresses and music cassettes.  Wedding dresses are around £50 each and very very nice.  The only real tourist attraction is the black church, which got its name when it survived the city fire.  Inside there is a big collection of 17C Persian carpets and the pew backs are oil paintings, very unusual.  We buy soft swirl ice cream cornets for 10p each.  Local products are cheap but imports (Benetton, McDonalds) and luxury electrical goods are about the same as UK prices.  Back at the campsite we meet Beth & David from Scotland.  They are doing a similar trip to us but with a car and tent.  They are in their early 50’s and have sold a very big house then bought a flat to enable them to travel.  Chatting until about 11pm they convince us to go to Turkey.

BRASHOV, CAMPING DIRSTE – 120 MILES

 

TUESDAY 29 JULY – Leave at 8am and head up into the mountains to Predeal then along the Pradha valley to Sinaia.  We want to visit the Peles Castle and go up on the chairlift but both are closed.  Continue to Bucharest passing interesting sites along the way, people walking their cow on a lead, others selling assorted produce and lots of people trying to wave us down for a lift (a sort of slow downward patting action).  Travel through lots of neglected Austrian style ski resorts before arriving at the Bucharest campsite to find it closed down.  As usual we end up driving right through the city centre with lots of crazy drivers switching lanes, poor signs and no road markings.  We leave in a SE direction to find a different campsite but with no luck.  We give up and get on the Bucharest main ring road to head out in a NE direction.  What a road, the worst yet being less than the van width in parts with huge pot holes and floods.  The next campsite at Sinestra is closed for renovation but just outside Snagov we spot “South Fork Ranch” complete with Eiffel Tower!  It turns out o be a neglected hotel complex with Dallas theme.  We are tempted to stay in the most expensive hotel room at £13 but the swimming pool is closed and a disco is on at 10pm so it may be noisy and the van might not be safe.  Continue past the next campsite, which again is neglected and closed.  Hit the Black sea coast just north of Constanta.  Camping Navora is open and charges 75p night.  There is only one other campervan there and that’s an old home made version. We stick out like a sore thumb amongst hundreds of Romanian and Moldavian tiny tents and are not happy being so conspicuous but dare not drive on as it’s almost dark.  In the other van are a Dutch family, Joseph, Ellen and their 4 girls.  They tell us the toilets and showers are foul (cesspit style and full), there’s a disco until 2am, the gypsies collect cows from the site at the side of us at 6am and the police go on manoeuvres sending up rockets etc.

N CONSTANTA, CAMPING NAVORA – 288 MILES

 

WEDNESDAY 30 JULY – 1.30am and the wild dogs are now barking and howling, guess they forgot to warn us about that!  After a brief spell on the beach we head off and drive through Constata before starting to look for a site.  The tourist areas of Neptune, Jupiter, Saturn and Venus are heaving like a mini Costa del Sol in August.  Continesti is a young people’s resort (under 25’s) with thousands of people hanging around the streets and tents pitched in the gardens of all the local homeowners.  The last resort before Bulgaria is Vama Veche and it comes up trumps with a small basic campsite “Camping Mai 2” on the beach and a naturist beach 500 yards around the bay.  £2 night with electricity and full of friendly helpful Romanian campers.  We have difficulty finding a level spot and end up with about 10 people helping to first push a car out of the way then dig the ground level for us.  They won’t even accept a drink and say it is just normal Romanian hospitality and Welcome to Romania, how nice. Spend a few hours on the beach directly in front of us.  In the evening we set off to the bar but get invited to stay by our neighbours Monica and Mircea.  They are in their late 50’s and from Bucharest.  He is a translator at the Romanian embassy and they both speak excellent English.  He is in fact a diplomat but only earns US$100 month whilst working in Romania.  When he works abroad he gets a wage closer to the one of the country he is in and this gives them the chance to save and buy electrical goods.  They have a 30 years old tiny fibreglass caravan of which they are very proud and luckier than most.  It’s difficult for us to comprehend that it would take them about 50 years work to buy a van like ours.  Non the less they won’t even let us get a bottle of wine to share and instead insist we try the local fish (about 6” long, rolled in flour, fried and served whole) which is very expensive in Romania.  (Mum you would have been proud of me picking away at this fish with my fingers, a bit better than in Paris!).  and serve us beer and imported brandy until 1am.  Monica also insists on cooking us a Romanian meal on Friday night so we say that would be lovely but please can we buy the ingredients and bring drinks.  They really don’t want us to do that so we will invite them to a meal with us one night.  I know Monica likes English books so I’ll see if I’ve any she can have.   Forgot to mention that the weather is now back to normal with hot days and clear blue skies.

VAMA VECHE, CAMPING MAI 2 – 52 MILES

 

THURSDAY 31 JULY - Spend the day on the naturist beach.  In the evening a crowd gather by the beach and we see a family of dolphins passing by about 20 metres from the shore.  Monica and Mircea come to us in the evening and teach us how to play backgammon.  They also tell us about themselves so we now know a lot more about Romania and the communists. 

VAMA VECHE 2