200902

SUNDAY 1 FEBRUARY 2009 – On the road before 7.30am. We soon reach a military checkpoint then cross into TABASCO state and shortly after CHIAPAS where we pay P32 (£1.60) bridge toll.  Further along the traffic is funnelled off to the right for another check but we are waved through.  Sometime later I tell Steve I think we have missed our turning and the name of the next village confirms this.  When we double back we find the turning opposite the checkpoint and veer off towards Palenque.  Heading out to the ruins we must pay P22 (£1.10) pp admission to the national park.  Maya Bell has a pleasant campsite and is the nearest to the ruins.  It is very early in the afternoon and although I prefer to visit sites early in the morning Steve suggests we go there straight away.  The museum is closed on Mondays anyway so we head off up the road.  Admission to the ruins and museum is P110 (£5.50) pp and we begin at the museum.  There are some really impressive artefacts and many of them still have colour.  We wait for the hourly opening of the special area where just 30 people at a time are permitted to entry a recreated tomb.  We watch video and can see the replica stone slabs.  You have to walk another 1 1/2km uphill to get to the site main entrance.  The first area we come to has 3 ruins on the right.  You can enter the centre one and go to where the tomb is.  The left hand one is where the tomb shown in the museum was found but you can’t go in.  The Palace complex is a fascinating collection of buildings as is another group high up on the hill.  It is a beautiful setting on the edge of the jungle, not at all crowded and with just a few vendors lining the paths.  It is different enough to make it worthwhile after all the other sites we have visited especially when we follow the stream downhill back to the museum.  En route we visit more excavations right in the jungle and see some really pretty waterfalls.  We are back at camp by 3.30pm so I have time for a swim in the pool, a natural pool fed by the river water.  Later on Sandra and Robert, from Montreal, pull up next door and tells us they plan to go to Agua Azul tomorrow.  We want to go as well but had heard it was not safe to camp there alone so maybe we will go together.  The motorhome camping is by the restaurant but higher up is the tent camping area and it is like a little back packers village.  Surround a grassy square are palapas with hammocks hanging and people take one over and either put their tent underneath or just set up camp and sleep in the hammocks. 

PALENQUE, MAYA BELL CAMPGROUND – P150 with elect P130 without

MONDAY 2 FEBRUARY – Our Quebec neighbours Sandra and Robert agree to go to Agua Azul together but first we want Internet.  They have a tow car so I go with Robert into town to the Super Che supermarket and find perfect wi-fi in their car park and also fit in a bit of shopping.  Could not bring pork or eggs through Campeche so now I have them.  We finally leave around 10.30am and begin the notoriously bad road leading to San Cristobal over the mountains. We take the lead and it seems pretty easy although we do have to cross to the other lane for a broken stretch of road and twice due to fallen trees.  A sign warns us we are in “Zapatista” bandit country but we’ve heard of no problems with tourists, recently!  The twisting narrow mountain road meanders up and down then flattens out in places rewarding us with fantastic views.  We pass many rural villages where people all seem to carry heavy loads on their backs supported by a strap around the foreheads.  Logs and crops seem to be the main things.  There are numerous topes and each one has multiple roadside sellers and we succumb to 4 corn on the cob at P10 (50p).  This seems to be the main crop here as hillsides are covered with them and many people are sat at the roadside with sacks full to be collected.  As always anyone over the ago of about 2 swings a machete.  A couple of times we are halted by people raising a rope in front of us but we just keep driving slowly and smile at them.  In some cases they are just asking for money and other times trying to sell things.  After about 60km we turn right towards the waterfalls and begin a steep 4km descent with hairpin bends.  The National Park fee is P50 (£2.50) per vehicle and shortly after they charge P10 (50p) pp for the waterfalls.  At the bottom of the hill we reach a kind of village area with a large grassy parking area surrounded by restaurants and stalls.  Before we have even begun to park children crowd round us trying to sell things but we just keep smiling and saying “no gracias”.  2-hours driving has brought us just 41 miles.  After a quick lunch we set out with Robert & Sandra to explore the falls.  They are a fantastic blue colour and descend into numerous beautiful pools.  Walking up stream we cannot believe just how many falls there are.  Often the main flow splits into 3 different sections.  In many places you can have a swim and as it is a very hot afternoon we don’t take much inviting. The whole area is incredibly beautiful with lots of lesser, but equally attractive falls, higher up.  In the evening we visit Sandra & Robert in their motorhome and play the domino game “Mexican Train”. 

AGUA AZUL

41 MILES

TUESDAY 3 FEBRUARY – It begins raining during the night and by the time we get up there is a lake behind us.  We are ready for our early start but decide to sit it out to see if the rain lessens and the visibility improves.  Finally get away after 9am and notice on the road up that since arriving here yesterday someone has run off the road and buckled the crash barrier.  Back on the main highway over the mountains we have to work our way around fallen trees, pigs ambling across the road, rock slides and people walking along the roadside.  One good thing about the rain is that there are no tope traders, no one holding us hostage with a rope across the road and even the military can’t be bothered to emerge from their hut to stop us at the checkpoint.  We pass through many small farming communities and notice a difference in the way people dress.  It is very slow going, misty much of the time but even without it we can’t go fast.  Manage a 15-minute lunch stop in Oxchuc before being moved on for parking where the “collectivos” should be.  Nearing San Cristobal the terrain changes and we are now in pine forest and notice most of the homes are made from wooden planks.  Pick up the Pan-American Highway to pick up the busy traffic through San Cristobal.  Less than 100 miles has taken us 5-hours.  There’s a campsite by Bonampak Hotel but we’ve also heard you can free camp at the supermarket Chedraui opposite so that’s where we end up.  We clear it with the security guard then Robert gets their car out and drives us all into the city.  It’s pretty cold so for the first time in months we dig out our jeans and thick jumpers.  The church in the Plaza is attractive from the outside and from there we walk up towards Guadalupe on the hill for views over the city.  On return we stop at Santo Domingo and this has an extremely unusual and impressive façade and inside is huge and gilded with an attractive pulpit.  Meet up with Sandra & Robert then stop for a delicious cappuccino, P12 (60p) in the square where we also buy some freshly ground local coffee.  Return to the vans and do a bit of shopping before Sandra & Robert join us for another game of Mexican Train.   Looking back on the journey it was nowhere near as bad as people have made out and very easy compared to many mountain roads we have done in other countries. 

SAN CRISTOBAL, CHEDRAUI CAR PAR

WEDNESDAY 4 FEBRUARY – Once the store closed at 11pm it became a quiet night although somewhat chillier than we have been used to necessitating a duvet and bedspread for extra warmth.  The store opens at 8am and I pop in for some fresh bread but cannot believe the crowd of people in the fruit and veg area.  Local women have trolleys full of oranges and tomatoes.  I wonder if the street sellers buy their produce here rather than growing it themselves!  In the morning we join Robert & Sandra for a ride to the mountain villages.  Ethnic (Indian) people still live here, daily dress varies with each village and they have their own language depending on their tribe.  We arrive in San Juan Chamula and it is bustling with people.  Along with a local market there are many women in town with their children as they are running an inoculation programme.  The ladies are dressed in dark skirts with bright coloured, but mainly blue, wool shawls whilst men have a kind of tabard with a belt.  P20 (£1) pp must be paid in the tourist office for a permit to enter the church.  You can take photos from outside, which is beautiful, but not within.  We’ve arrived early and the normally pine strewn floor is bare.  There are no seats so families are sat on the floor in groups lighting small candles and sticking them onto the tiles whilst drinking coca cola – they believe that each time you burp a bad spirit leaves your body.  The men often mix it with a spirit known as “posh” with the idea that when they get drunk they get a warm feeling making them closer to the sun and God.  One man shouts and waves us over to them and chatters away in his local language, we just smile but cannot understand a word.  Shortly after he keels over and is escorted out of the church.  It is a really beautiful scene enhanced by the hundreds of candles.  The sides of the church are lined with statues in clothing and many have mirrors hanging around their necks.  A group of men gather the sacks of pine needles and begin to scatter them over the floor creating a fragrant carpet, they say they do this 3 times a week.  It is a really moving and magical experience and we are the only tourists around.  Leaving the church we see the tour groups arriving so after a quick browse through the market and at the craft stalls we move ahead to Zinacantan.  To enter the village there is a tourist fee of P15 (75p) pp.  Here there are 2 churches in the square, no pine needles but the altars are completely covered with beautiful flowers.  The village women all have purple patterned shawls and we see some incredible large bundles of logs being carried by really old ladies.  At the bottom of the village we visit the museum with examples of local costumes.  The museum building is also of interest being the local wattle and daub style construction.  There is a new toll road towards Tuxtla Gutierrez and it is a fantastic and makes the drop of almost 2,000 metres very easy, toll P67 (£3.45) and worth every penny.  We turn off for Chiapa De Corzo heading for the main square.  A lad comes over to greet us, gives us a leaflet about the boat trip and tells us to follow him for free parking.  Reaching the end of the square he tries to send us down a narrow side street but we are too wide.  Cars are backed up right behind us so we must reverse up the wrong side of the dual carriageway to make the turn to go around the square.  At this point a motorhome comes up the one way street in front of us and we are amazed to see it is Kevin & Ruth.  We manoeuvre round the square to park and chat to them.  They tell us Thomas will lead us to the parking spot and we can make it in the motorhome, they are off to the zoo and will rendezvous with us further on tomorrow.  We do make it down to the boat ramp, harder for Robert & Sandra towing the car.  Within minutes of parking up we realise we can get on the 2pm trip up the Sumidero Canyon so pay our P150 (£7.50) and hop aboard the 16 seater boat.  Heading under the high and wide road bridge we enter the gorge and see lots of birds and crocodiles on the banks. The boatman only speaks Spanish but an Argentinean couple sat next to us translate into English.  It is a really attractive gorge with rock walls as high as 1000 metres.  En route there are some interesting features including a waterfall that looks like a Christmas tree the way it has fanned out and gone green.  At the top of the gorge we emerge onto the lake, created by the 3^rd largest dam in the world.  We have a fast boat ride back to complete the interesting 2-hour journey.   It is a lovely evening so we sit out by the water enjoying some delicious pina colada’s made to Robert’s special recipe.  I’ve cooked a huge pork curry, hoping Kevin & Ruth would be joining us, and Sandra supplies the rice to complete our meal.  Instead of Mexican Train they have a version of the game sequence so that completes our entertainment for the evening.

CHIAPA DE CORZO, BOAT RAMP

32 MILES

THURSDAY 5 FEBRUARY – Straight after breakfast we drive up to the plaza before the streets get congested with traffic. In the centre of the square is a magnificent fountain surrounded by a fancy Moorish style arched building.  Once we have used the free wi-fi signal we head off around Chiapas capital city of Tuxtla Gutierrez.  Pulling up at traffic lights we hear a car hooting and a hand waving out of the window, it’s the Argentinean couple we met yesterday.  On the outskirts of Ocozocoautla we drive to Hotel Infantil.  This is a children’s home with about 80 kids ranging from 6 – 22 years old.  You are welcome to camp for up to 5 days free of charge but may be asked to help with English lessons.  We have come armed with educational games and other things that may be of use.   Kevin & Ruth are already parked up but have gone into town.  There are just 2 more places available and we take them.  They are out for the day with 2 other motorhome couples and return late afternoon.  We go off for a ride out with Sandra and Robert to a tourist place just up the road.  12km of dirt track leads us to Sima De Las Cotorras (chasm of parrots) a kind of huge hole in the ground with steep sides and a forest in the bottom.  You can walk around the rim and this takes you to a restaurant where they take the P20 (£1) admission.  There is accommodation and you can camp there (if you can get to it in the first place).  The lady points us to signs in English explaining about the rare green parrots that live there and some ancient rock art on the walls of the pit.  In the evening we enjoy a game of Sequence with Robert & Sandra whilst Kevin & Ruth entertain their German neighbours. 

OCOZOCOAUTLA, HOGAR INFANTIL

37 MILES

FRIDAY 6 FEBRUARY – We’ve decided to stay one more day to catch up on a few things.  Robert & Sandra head off but a few minutes later Sandra comes back for help.  Their tow car slipped of the ramp and in their haste to sort it out they have got locked out of the motorhome with the engine running.  Kevin & Steve go to help, manage to get into the motorhome through a small window to deal with the engine problem.  They get the car back on the trailer but then find the motorhome won’t move.  After much research on the Internet and reading our handbook (they have the same base vehicle) they find the trailer coming unhitched blew a brake fuse and now the brakes are locked on.  With a new fuse in place they are ready to roll.  Spend the day on the Internet, doing laundry and odd jobs.  An evening game of Euchre with Kevin & Ruth rounds of the day.

OCOZOCOAUTLA 2, HOGAR INFANTIL

SATURDAY 7 FEBRUARY – We had planned to move on today but it is Kevin’s birthday and Ruth has invited us for supper.  It also means we can do loads on the Internet including Steve getting his sports results and catch up with the laundry.  This does not work out at all as the Internet is not on and the water goes off just after I start doing the washing.  At least it comes back on later.  The children here have obviously all got chores to do and we see many of the girl’s hand washing clothes.  We’ve tried to speak to someone in charge here to donate some gifts but still haven’t been able to find anyone and no one has come to see us.  In the evening we are just finishing dinner and Ruth is preparing dessert when the ice cream man calls.  Kevin buys a dish full for P10 (50p) to top off the fruit salad and brownies, yummy. 

OCOZOCOAUTLA 3

SUNDAY 8 FEBRUARY – We leave at 7am as we have a long journey.  Still in the mountains we have many more ups and downs to travel but also get fine views.  At La Venta there is a huge wind farm, not surprising as the wind howls down through the valley and fairly wobbles the motorhome.  Opt for the new toll road to avoid Santa Cruz, two tolls P94 (£4.70) and P47 (£2.35) but well worth it as it is a superb fast road and very quiet.  There are a few military checkpoints but pretending we don’t understand a word of Spanish they soon let us on our way.  Cross into the state of OAXACA.  We are both very pleased to get our glimpse of the Pacific Ocean and this is where we join the Pan-Am and head north up the coast.  Just over 7-hours after we set out we arrive at Tangolunda Beach where Robert & Sandra are parked up.  This is a purpose developed tourist area so we are very surprised to find cheap camping right next to the golf course.  There are just a few sites but all are large and there are toilets, cold showers and water so all that we need.  You walk through a forest to get to a lovely beach that takes up the whole bay.  It is backed by luxury all inclusive style hotels and behind them is a small village with tourist shops and restaurants. 

TANGOLUNDA BEACH P50 (£2.50) PP

MONDAY 9 FEBRUARY – We are trying to conclude a deal selling Harry to a friend of a friend from England so walk to the nearby Italian Coffee Shop to be sure of good Internet.  Keith & Louise agree to adopt Harry with a provisional plan to hand him over in Houston on 1^st May.  We return and head to the beach and walk all around the bay.  All-inclusive resorts back it and we see people with their wristbands but at the last one “Dreams” people have no bands.  We amble up the steps and watch the procedure before ordering our drinks from the bar – thank you very much.  It is very hot in the afternoon so cooler near the motorhome, not easy to nap, as there are so many amazing birds here with interesting calls.  We are invited to the communal “happy hour” and meet Michelle & Jack and Dave & Joyce with their dogs George and Gracie.  Robert & Sandra join us for an evening meal followed by a game of sequence.

TANOLUNDA BEACH 2

TUESDAY 10 FEBRUARY - Sandra takes me for a ride up to the Super Che supermarket and then around the old town where I buy a lovely fresh red snapper for P30 (£1.50).  It is a purpose built town to house the locals who work in the hotels here but looks just like any other traditional Mexican.  Driving back we get superb views over the bays and also stop to explore a couple of others.  Sandra has suggested we go for a drive up to town in the evening as it is all nicely lit up.  Unfortunately late afternoon their car breaks down and they have to leave at a garage.  During happy hour Dave’s dogs begin barking and run off, they have spotted Whiskey who is with Kevin & Ruth.  They arrived just before dark and rather than pay P100 to park here tonight they are parked up in the main car park.

TANGOLUNDA BEACH 3

WEDNESDAY 11 FEBRUARY – Robert, Sandra & I walk up to Kevin & Ruths for a ride up into town.  Robert needs to check on the car progress and I am going to do a bit more shopping.  On return Kevin & Ruth move onto the trailer park.  We head down to the beach but return for lunch and a siesta.  Late afternoon we manage another visit to the beach before holding “happy hour” at our place.

TANGOLUNDA 4

THURSDAY 12 FEBRUARY – We are falling into a nice routine now.  First thing I sit by the shower block doing Internet, along with so many others it often looks like an Internet café.  After breakfast I do a bit of laundry in the showers whilst Steve does an odd job or two.  Kevin helps him, as today’s is a complicated job fixing the top rear lights that were not working.  Turns out when we grounded we cut off the cable so it is an easy fixed once they have worked it out.  I cook a pork curry for lunch and invite Kevin & Ruth to join us.  Late afternoon we fit in a beach visit and return to see a couple of huge rigs coming into the park.  They are both from Quebec (seems that 90% of the Canadians in Mexico are from Quebec) and one has “just married” on the rear windows.  Think they must be only French speaking, as they don’t seem to want to talk.  In the evening a truck drives through the trailer park with bug spray and we just manage to shut the van windows before we get fumigated.  Round off the days with a movie at K&R’s.

TANGOLUNDA 5

FRIDAY 13 FEBRUARY – Well it may be Friday 13^th and unlucky for some but it was lucky for us as we ambled to Dreams at the end of the beach and spent the morning using their swimming pool.  Of course to blend in we had to accept a few of the free drinks as well!  Having agreed a sale of Harry Steve has decided to do some thorough cleaning a bit at a time.  Today he catches his little finger and this causes a huge problem.  He broke it many years ago, then re broke a few years after that and it is now permanently swollen with now cartilage.  It looks like he has done the same thing again today and is in great pain with it.  Luckily he can still manage to play Sequence when Robert & Sandra join us for the evening.

TANGALUNDA 6

SATURDAY 14 FEBRUARY – Robert & Sandra have had their car fixed and after lunch we join them for a ride out to Copalita, 10km down the coast.  Bocano Copalita is a beautiful beach backed by attractive rocks and with just a small boutique hotel behind it.  A river divides it and after a bit of a struggle wading across we settle on the banks.  It is great fun to float in the water and let it carry you downstream like a lazy river.  Some local lads are having fun jumping in on the bend from the high rocks.  In another area people are in kayaks and a white water rafting type dingy also floats past.  Unfortunately it is a very windy afternoon so if you are not in the water it is very uncomfortable having the sand blast at you so we don’t stay all that long.  It is Valentines day so 4 couples have decided to go out to dinner in Crucecita.  We get a ride with Robert & Sandra and Kevin & Ruth goes with Dave & Joyce.  Park in the main square by church and head to a fish restaurant in the back streets that Dave recommends.  Whilst waiting for our meal we get complimentary tostadas (sort of big round corn crisps) and ceviche (raw fish marinated in lemon juice and served with onions, hot peppers and olives) to put on top.  I’m surprised to find it is delicious.  I have orders shrimp salad (what Glen eating salad!) and it is a huge plate of peeled prawns with a mayonnaise dressing and onions and red peppers so not enough of a salad to scare me off.  Steve has the fish soup and gets an enormous bowl of broth with squid, massive prawns, a small red snapper and other fishy things.   Afterwards we head to the port at Santa Cruz where Sandra has sussed out a gem of a bar hidden behind the Pemex station.  They are all geared up for Valentines with candles on the tables and music playing in the background.   A nice finish to a romantic evening.

TANGOLUNDA 7

SUNDAY 15 FEBRUARY – We are leaving tomorrow so I do a bit more washing and cleaning.  Kevin & Ruth move off mid afternoon as they don’t want to pay for tonight and will stay on the car park.  We head down to the beach and Robert & Sandra joins us for a few drinks and a swim at Dreams.

TANGOLUNDA 8

FRIDAY 16 JANUARY – Well the gods must be looking after us as the rain has finally stopped.  Kathe give us a lift to Immigration offices where we manage to jump the queue by asking a question.  They give us some forms that we must take to the bank to pay for the tourist visa.  Catch a bus to town centre, P5 (25p) then queue for ½ hour to make the P282 (14.50) payment per person.  Next we have to get 3 copies of each of the receipts and the bank obliges us. Taxi back to immigration, P20 (1.00) and again the girl sees us ahead of the huge seated crowd.  She stamps the copies, gives us one back and says we are good to go.  Take a taxi to bus station, P14 (70p) and then on to the 11am chicken bus to Corozal P15 (75p).  It is one of the old American school buses and looks well past its best before date but at least the driver tops up the engine oil before we set off.  We could have caught a luxury Ado bus but for a short journey this is more fun.  At the Mexican border we all get off the bus and proceed to customs to show passports or ID.  The guy asks for our tourist visa, stamps it double entry before asking of our plan.  We explain we are returning and he asks for P100 (5.00) each.  We tell him we have already paid and asked for a double entry visa at the original border and should not have to pay more.  He says no he wants P100 so we call his bluff and say we will not bother going to Belize and stay in Mexico.  He then says OK we can go in for free, just this once.  Over the bridge the next stop is entry into BELIZE.  All very simple and strange to hear perfect English being spoken – due to Belize being British Honduras in the past.  It’s a short ride to Corozal but quite a transition from Mexico.  Signs are all in English and it looks like a Caribbean town with all the coloured people.  Everyone seems very friendly and many say Hello as we pass.  There’s an ATM in square, approx B2.80 = GBP1 so we are soon fixed up.  Bank notes have a picture of very young version of The Queen on them.  The island ferry doesn’t leave until 3pm and it’s only just after 12 so we have time to explore.   Chinese runs most of the shops but all the food seems to be tinned and very expensive, accommodation is not great so we will press on.   Thunderbolt ferry costs B$45 (GBP16) pp and takes 2-hours of very bumpy noisy riding to get us to Ambergris Caye, the island also known as “La Isla Bonita” in the Madonna song.  It’s starting to rain when we arrive and we are disheartened to find our first few choices of accommodation are full.  There seems to be no middle ground just budget rooms and posh rooms at $200 and up.  We drop “lucky’ at Thomas Hotel where he has a grotty cubicle room for B$50 (GBP17).  Well its one of those “no room at the inn” situations and better than nothing.  Dump the bags and set out to explore the small town where golf carts are the main mode of transport.  It’s happy hour in many bars so 2 x rum and cokes for B$5 (GBP 1.80) makes us feel much better.  We’re obviously in for a noisy night as drumming begins at 8pm in a bar nearby.

AMBERGRIS CAY, SAN PEDRO, THOMAS HOTEL - B$50 (GBP 17)

SATURDAY 17 JANUARY – We have no problem getting up early to leave and are pleased that it is a dry day.  Sit eating our grapefruit on the beachfront then enjoy a coffee at Estell’s whilst waiting for the ferry.  B$25 (GBP9) buys us a ticket to Caye Caulker with an onward one to Belize City for later.  This is another white-knuckle ride but only takes ½ hour.  Caye Caulker is a more laid-back backpackers type island with sandy streets and again golf cart transportation.  Amble along the shore checking out rooms but once again there are either cheapish grotty rooms or very expensive ones with nothing in between.  By comparison to Asia the cheap rooms are not great value but Ignacio Beach Bungalows seem the best of the batch with en suite cabins on stilts at B$30 (GBP12) if you stay for 2 nights.  Sounds cheap but you have to see them to realise they are little more than garden huts with damp sagging roofs, holes in the walls and smelly bathrooms but we do have a nice view and it’s well away from the noisy part of town.  Set out to explore the island, which can easily be done, on foot, in fact many people wander around permanently barefoot.  In the evening we return to Jolly Roger shack as his evening meal package of meal, dessert and 3 drinks at B$25 (GBP8) seems good value.  The mash and rice are sent from home in a polystyrene tray but the fish or lobster he cooks to go with it is really tasty.  Dessert is a small slice of chocolate cake and the drinks are weak rum and oranges however we do have good company.

CAYE CAULKER, IGNACIO BEACH BUNGALOWS - B$30 (GBP12)

SUNDAY 18 JANUARY – Begin our walk heading to the south of the island with an intriguing cemetery, signs give birth and death dates as sunrise and sunset.  The airport is just behind it and a plane is due to land so we step to one side whilst it drops in over our heads.  From there we walk to the north end of the island where the old bridge that connected it to another part was washed out in a storm many years ago.  There’s a nice bar where we buy drinks in order to sit on their loungers.  The channel between the islands is deep and full of tropical fish that we can easily see.  Most of the beaches around the island are marred by sea grass and people really come here to take a boat trip to the offshore reef for snorkelling.  The snorkelling here is not as good as it used to be and it is blamed on the tourists stepping on the reef however having seen that there is no drainage as such on the island we suspect other factors are at play.  Locals here think nothing of swearing even with young children around and often the F word mixed in with a bit of  “Creole”.  In the evening we go to Lloyds Canadian sports bar for the trivia quiz.  We arrive early and treat ourselves to a nice meal only to find that the quiz is off as there is a big American football game on TV. 

CAYE CAULKER 2

MONDAY 19 JANUARY – Catch the 7.30am express ferry to Belize arriving in the city 30 minutes later.  We have used to boats to create a circular tour for ourselves but we certainly would not call them pleasure boat trips.  Belize City looks pretty grim if our walk up Orange Street to the bus station is anything to go by.  The 9.15am bus will take us further south but not to Placencia as the road there is too bad for the bus.  We can get off at Independence and get a boat across but opt to make an earlier stop and re plan.  The old American school bus soon fills up and people are left standing.  B$10 (GBP4) will get us to Dangrina in just under 3 hours via the capital city of Belmopan.  This is another white-knuckle bumpy ride with lots of sliding on the seats as we swerve around the bends.  The scenery changes from low lying flooded areas to lots of big hills in the jungle.  In Dangrina we have a problem getting a room, as there is a medical conference in town.  Just about to give up and take a bus further when we find Riverside Hotel has basic rooms at B$25 pp but with no guests she will take B$40 (GBP14) for the two of us.  It’s less grim than the other places we have stayed but we have to share bathrooms.  We are now in a “garifuna” town with lots of Rasta’s who we think originated in Nigeria.  They have a different language but seem friendly people and call out to us as we stroll around.  Many fall in to one of 2 categories, piss heads that have just rolled out of the bar or piss pants that have just crawled out of the gutter.  The beach area is poor but we enjoy just wandering around a getting a feel for the place and have time to check out buses for tomorrow.

DANGRIGA, RIVERSIDE HOTEL - B$40 (GBP14)

TUESDAY 20 JANUARY – We catch the 7.45am James Bus to Punta Gorda, B$13 (£4.30).  Although we are on the “express” bus it still takes 3 hours and we drop of and pick up many people on route.  The express bus does have the advantage of having more comfortable seats but by this I mean an inch of foam on each seat and back rest!  Punta Gorda is pretty much the most southern coastal town in Belize and so laid back the locals can’t even be bothered to give it the full name and just say PG.  The driver asks where we want to be dropped of and we ask for the St Charles Inn as recommended in the Rough Guide.  This turns out to be the best accommodation we have seen so far in Belize with small but modern rooms and tiled bathrooms with hot water in the showers.  For B$40 (£14) we take a single room having finally realised that many single rooms mean just one bed but this is often a double bed.  He relays all the satellite TV to the town so his garden is full of huge dishes and he has TV in all the rooms.  We wander around town and everyone shouts a greeting to us.  The main ferry only goes further south twice a week but a local boatman says he has many people wanting to go tomorrow so we will go with him.  Obama is being inaugurated today and the locals are all glued to the TV watching the ceremony.  Most of the people here are the Garifuna, many of whom originated as slaves from Africa so they are very happy to see him as president.  We are happy to have an evening at home channel hopping with the TV.

PUNTA GORDA - CHARLES INN B$40 (£14)

WEDNESDAY 21 JANUARY – We both have an excellent nights sleep but linger in bed enjoying our surroundings.  Call in to the snack shack for breakfast and as usual everyone wants to chat.  One of the locals tells us we should visit “Johnny English” a Brit who bought a motorhome in Florida, drove it here and is now building on a plot of land.  We hunt him down along with his Canadian friend Pete just as their wives are going out shopping.  There’s so much to talk about in such a short time as we have a boat to catch.  He shows us his new home and tells us wages are incredibly low here and his workers get $2 (£1.35) a day.  Needless to say he has had lots of snags and work is behind schedule but once finished his 3-storey home with be fantastic.  Meet for El Chato’s boat trip at 2pm.  He charges B$30 (£10) versus the big ferry fee of B$50.  We have to pay B$7.50 (£2.50) environmental departure tax and do brief immigration facilities before boarding the 30-seater boat.  1-hour later we dock in Livingston GUATEMALA and amble up the main street to report to the customs house.  The currency is Quetzal with approx Q10 = £1.  This small town has no land access so has an island feel with very friendly locals.  Tourists come down from Rio Dulce on the river but few stay overnight.  The cliff top hostel has a simple double room with en suite for Q80 (£8) and we are ready to drop our bags off so take it.  Walking around town we end up along the waterfront where we find Marina Hotel with really nice rooms and a swimming pool so decide to upgrade tomorrow for Q200 (£20).  A little further along is the backpackers Casa Del Iguana run by a Cockney lad called Rusty.  He welcomes us and say he is just about to watch “Fools and horses” on TV and why don’t we stay.  He has a dorm and some pleasant cabins with en-suite and although I am fed up of cabins we love the atmosphere and book in for tomorrow night.

LIVINGSTON HOSTEL - Q80 double en-suite room

THURSDAY 22 JANUARY – Check out early then walk to Iguana to drop our bags off.  We want to do the beach walk to “Los Siete Altares”.  It is 5km along the back of the beach and takes us 1-½ hours, as there is so much to see.  You are walking along by all the village homes and we also see lots of fishermen.  There are many creek crossings with different sorts of bridges ranging from solid concrete ones down to a single pole.  We are the first visitors at the falls, Q15 (£1.50) and initially disappointed to reach what looks like a concrete barrier across the river with a trickle of water in the middle.  As the trail takes us across it we realise it is a natural rock formation and then upstream we find seven more pools going back into the jungle.  It is really attractive and nice for bathing in but we realise we are not seeing it at its best as there is so little water compared to the photos we have seen where you cannot see the walls between the falls.  Hiking back we hear drumming and chanting and pause to listen.  A fisherman sees us and tells us to follow the path into the village.  Reach a small wooden church and a man comes out to greet us.  He shakes our hands and says he is the man from the tourist office where we went yesterday to ask about the walk.  He is also the village “priest” or equivalent as he invites us into the building then proceeds to waft us with pungent smoke and sprinkle water over us.  Many of the people are white and hippy looking and joining in dancing with the locals.  The drumming gets more intense and barefoot people stamp around on the floor in a kind of trance, we wonder whether he has wacky backy in the incense burner! There seems to be no end to the ceremony so we discreetly take our leave.  Spend the afternoon watching more “Fools and Horses” and chatting to Rusty’s Mum and Dad who are over visiting but have a Post Office in England.  Many people have signed up for Rusty’s family evening meal, Q30 (£3) and it is a local dish of “tapado” a kind of stew with coconut milk.  During the meal we chat to other travellers and end up joining some for a few games of Texas Hold Em, after winning the first one I head to bed and leaving Steve to lose some of our winnings.

LIVINGSTON, CASA DE IGUANA - Q120 (£12)

FRIDAY 23 JANUARY – Neither of us get much sleep.  Not only did we hear roosters all night but also dogs were barking and fighting underneath our cabin and people were up chatting until late.  No more cabins for me.  One of Rusty’s cooked breakfasts soon make us feel better especially the extras of brown sauce and marmite on toast.  He really does go out of his way to make you feel at home.  He has booked us on the boat to Rio Dulce, Q125 (£12.50) and this means they pick us up at his place.  At 9.30am our boatman arrives and we head off up the river.  The river soon becomes a deep jungle sided gorge with small homes at the edges.  Turn off up the Rio Tatin to a Mayan school where we are shown the goods that they make.  Further up the main river we stop to bathe in some hot springs.  Hot water emerges into the main river and they have created a pool to hold it back and so you can mix it with the cool river to get a bath at whatever temperature you want.  The river has now widened and along the banks we are interested to see the locals out doing washing and going about their business.  The last part of the 2-hour trip is a bumpy fast ride along the lake to Rio Dulce town.  It seems to be a very busy one street town.  We book on the Fuente del Norte bus to Poptun leaving at 1.30pm, Q35 (£3.50) then walk down to the pier to enjoy our picnic.  The bus is already full when we get on so we have to stand in the aisle.  Steve tries sitting on his bag but when I try it I find you can see nothing but get to smell everyone’s feet.  There are many young people sat down but no one shows any courtesy in offering up seats.  We reach a Police stop and all have to get off the bus whilst they walk through it.  Getting back on we must show identification.  I get back to the area where we were stood and take a seat temporarily, when the youth returns he says I can stay there.   Further on there is a fruit inspection so again we must all get off whilst they do a check.  By 3.30pm we have covered around 100km at get dropped off at the junction to Finca Ixobel.  As we haul our bags 1km up the bumpy drive it begins to rain.  This is a working farm where they grow produce, offer horse rides etc and let out rooms.  They seem to have everything from dorm beds up to private bungalows.  We settle on a double room linked to an unused dorm but with shared bathroom for Q90 (£9).  They are really welcoming and seem to have thought of everything you may need or want to know.  Evening meals are taken in the main house and you can have a single serve for Q45 (£4.50) or all you can eat buffet for Q60 (£6).  The price includes salad, garlic bread and home made bread, soft drinks and coffee and the food is excellent.  It also gives us a chance to meet and chat to other guests from around the world.  The music bar opens at 9pm and is down a track in the forest.  Under our umbrellas we head off down the muddy track for what seems like a mile to reach the welcoming bar with a roaring log fire.  Unfortunately the music is too loud for Steve to talk and even the fire isn’t enough to keep me warm so we just stop for 1 quick drink.

POPTUN, FINCA IXOBEL - Q90 (£9) double room

SATURDAY 24 JANUARY – We have had a quiet night even if the rain was a little noisy on the tin roof.  Unfortunately it is still raining when we get up and at breakfast we learn that the Pyramid Mountain is too muddy to climb and the other walking track is very muddy.  We could use a days rest so will still stay here.  They have Internet Q20 (£2) hour, and we find out Judy & Stan will not be visiting us.  Due to fly to Mexico City tomorrow and meet us on the west coast a family illness has caused them to cancel.  Shame we had not known a few days earlier as we would then have had time to go on to Honduras, hey ho.  We visit Nate and Jena in their camper.  They are a young couple that are heading down to Costa Rica in the hope of finding work but using the camper to make a holiday of the journey.  They give us tips about the west coast of Mexico and we can reciprocate with motorhome help.  It clears to a drizzle in the afternoon so we walk to the pond where you could normally enjoy a swim and the water slide but today struggle to stay upright on the muddy banks.  Late afternoon we are amazed to see a French motorhome arriving followed by another with Adrian and Danielle (who we have bumped into 5 times before).  Their trip is going very well but they are chancing it without motorhome insurance.  Again we have an excellent evening meal in the main house.  Our room is attached to a dorm and last night it was empty but tonight holds a group of 8 Israeli’s.  At 11pm we ask them to kindly lower the noise so they turn the music off and talk a little quieter but nothing blocks out the sound of snoring through the night. 

POPTUN 2, FINCA IXOBEL

SUNDAY 25 JANUARY – We chat to Danielle and Adrian and realise there is every chance we will bump into them again on the west coast of Mexico.  Nate and Jena have offered us a ride in the back of their camper so we clamber aboard for our trip to El Remate.  They seem to have the perfect vehicle for this part of the world; a 4wd pick up truck with a small but functional camper on the back.  We can’t see much from the back but it is considerably more comfortable than our last bus journey when Steve was sat on the floor.  A couple of hours later they drop us in the wood carving village of El Remate on the edge of Lago Peten Itza (Lake Peten).  It’s a lovely spot and we begin our walk along the street hunting for a room.  A couple of local lads latch on to us offering advice.  We compare a few things along the way and are tempted by a posh hotel with swimming pool for Q200 (£20) but when I see a double room with en suite at Hermano Pedro for Q90 (£9) I begin to wonder, as we will be out all day tomorrow.  The lad thinks I am hesitating over the price and offers a reduction to Q70 (£7).  I go through all the checks as to if it includes tax, whether that is the price for the room for two people etc, if it is quiet at night and then agree to take it.  We can see it is not going to be all that quiet as the accommodation is on the top floor of a house in a wooden room with rooms all the way along so our bed head backs onto the ones in the next room.  Having settled in we explore the village, which seems really friendly.  A road spurs off around the lake and there are lots more rooms available, some a little cheaper with no en suite, but nothing any better.  Pick up a pizza for lunch then return for siesta.  Take our evening meal at Casa Don David where we get a nice view of sunset over the lake.  Our hotel book us a shuttle bus to Tikal for tomorrow morning Q50 (£5) each return.  As usual we have a disturbed night with dogs barking and roosters crowing most of the time.

EL REMATE, HERMANO PEDRO –

Q70 DOUBLE EN SUITE (LATER FOUND TO BE PP) 

MONDAY 26 JANUARY – We get up at 5am ready for our 5.30am pick up.  Check out time at our hotel is 2pm so when we get back we will move to the nice hotel.  The mini bus arrives at 5.45am but doesn’t finish picking up others until after 6am so we have no chance of being at the site for sunrise.  Arrive at 6.30am and pay the hefty Q150 (£15) pp admission then stride off purposefully towards the main ruins.  Tikal was a huge city begun around 700BC when the Mayans settled here.  Much is still unexcavated but it is still at least 10km walk to visit most of the major buildings that have been unearthed.  We reach the Great Plaza with two pyramids facing each other.  You can climb one of them although access is by a wooden staircase at the side of it.  It’s very quiet so we press on to Temple V.  This one is much taller and access to the top is by a series of ladders.  Steve pulls out after the first few steps up but I go ahead and enjoy a great view from the top.  You can see Peten Lake and a few other temples poking up out of the jungle.  I am at the top alone on a narrow ledge and about to walk to the ladder when a couple of big vultures land in front of me.  They are now blocking my access to the ladder and don’t fly away as I inch closer.  I creep closer getting great photos and then realise that I am really near to them and they are not going to fly away.  I try shooing them off but only one goes.  I move closer but realise there is no room to squeeze past and am frightened that if I scare the bird it will either attack me or take off in my direction and me with no place to step aside.  Luckily something scares it and it takes off so I make a quick escape.   Meanwhile Steve has been spotting Spider monkeys in the trees.  We amble through the Plaza of the seven temples and the Lost World to get to the back of the park.  We’ve been hearing strange noises like wind rushing through the trees but now realise it is the howler monkeys.  The sound is incredible, like a cross between a roar and a bark and extremely loud and frightening.  We track them down near temple IV only to find they are very small black things.   Temple IV is the tallest at 64m and easy to climb up a staircase so we both head to the top and sit there enjoying the views.  We have really seen all we want to but it is only 8.30am.  Decide to detour out to the temple of inscriptions but the inscription is very basic and too high up to see. Overall we are somewhat disappointed with the site compared to other things we have seen in the past but I guess is this was your first Mayan site it would be really good.  Stop for breakfast at the Jaguar Inn then catch the 12.00 mini bus back.  Back at the posh hotel they have put their price up to Q350 (£35) as yesterday they were empty and had reduced it.  Decide to stay put and it is interesting to see that today we are the only guests at Hermano Pedro.  In the evening we go across the road to watch sunset from Restaurant Cahui and to enjoy one of their delicious pasta meals.  Opposite is a small church and we hear the same singing we heard last night.  Passing the entrance we are invited in and enjoy seeing some very young children sing individually accompanied by a young lad on the drums and the congregation who all clap.

EL REMATE 2 - HERMANO PEDRO

TUESDAY 27 JANUARY – We come to pay the bill but they ask double the price quoted.  The girl says the price is per person not for the room but we repeat the conversation we had when we negotiated with her brother.  She then tells us her brother doesn’t work there!  We explain that their rooms are nicer than others but would not have stayed there for Q70 pp as there are many places at Q60 per room and we did not need the bathroom.  End up having to speak to the boss on the telephone and he is not happy but agrees to the lower price.  Next she won’t accept our US$20 note even through their tariff board shows both currencies. Seems a little strange as I go to the restaurant nearby and get Q146 then give here the Q140 as agreed.   It is less than 2km walk out to the main road at Puente Ixlu (El Cruce) where within minutes we are picked up by a collectivo.  Q25 (£2.50) gets us a ride to the border.  Over 1-hour to make the short journey as the bulk of the road is in terrible shape.  We have been told the Guatemalans won’t maintain it, as it is disputed territory and also if the Belizeans invade it will slow them down!  In the border town of Melchor de Mencos we spend our last few quetzals only to find they want a departure tax (having enquired before and told there was none).  They ask for Q20 (£2) then say they will take B$10 but settle for $5 (£3.30) but won’t give us a receipt!  Entry to BELIZE is really easy and we are through in minutes.  We are now in the middle of nowhere and must take a taxi 3km to the town of Benque Viejo del Carmen.  The driver asks US$10 (£7) but settles for US$5.  Chatting en route he says how quiet it is and offers to take us all the way to San Ignacio for a total of US$10 – deal.  He drops us by an information centre and they allow us to use their phone to call our host.  Marcus tells us how to get out to their place at Bullet Tree Falls so we head off to find a collectivo.  B$6 (£3) gets us both a ride to Parrots Nest where Marcus is waiting to meet us.  He’s a really lively guy and tells us that Theo, his girlfriend, runs the lodge whilst he teaches at night school.  Very knowledgeable on the area he tells us about lots of possible trips but they all seem very expensive and I am feeling a bit sickly and not too lively.  He says Theo has also been feeling sickly today as there is a bug doing the rounds.  I think mine is a mixture of aching from climbing the ruins, a chill from cold nights and not enough blankets for the beds, tiredness and bit of sickness.  Theo returns with her children Chloe and Katya and we have a bit of a chat.  They had a terrible flood through here in October and she shows us just how high.  It is amazing how much they have done since then with the help of lot of friends but it explains why our cabin is a bit wonky!  In the evening she takes us into town along with their other guests Rueben and Catherine so we can get a take away from “Hannas”.  By the time we get back both Catherine and I feel too sick to eat any of it.  I retire for an early night but get little sleep due to noisy dogs, roosters and things dropping onto the tin roof.

SAN IGNACIO, BULLET TREE FALLS, PARROTS NEST

WEDNESDAY 28 JANUARY – It has been another noisy night with dogs barking, roosters crowing and at one stage one of the dogs on our doorstep scratching then banging its tail on the door.  I’m still not feeling well and although Marcus mentioned tubing on the river I just want to rest.  Katya is also feeling sickly and stays off school.  There are some huge iguanas here and Steve takes great delight in tracking them down, watching them climb the trees and occasionally fall off.  By mid afternoon I’m a little better but Steve is making lots of trips to the toilet with a griping stomach.  I manage a dip in the river in the afternoon.  It’s a gorgeous spot here as the river has a pebbly beach, is clear and warm and deep enough for a nice dip but too strong a current to swim.  Theo is late back as Chloe’s team got further than expected in a basketball tournament in Belmopan.  She sees that I am reading one of their books “P.O. Belize” and tells me the author Kathy Stephens is her mother.

BULLET TREE FALLS 2 

THURSDAY 29 JANUARY – The bad night continues as I feel something jumping around in the bed.  By torch light I try to waft it out thinking it must be some kind of bug.  When I wake up in the morning to see a tree frog sat at the side of the bed I am not amused.  I hate frogs and would have really freaked if I had known what it was.  Theo offers to take us to town on the school run so we leave around 8am.  Across the river in San Pedro she drops us off at the bus stop where we buy tickets for the 9am Amigos Belize luxury express bus to Chetumal, $25 (£18).  There are cheaper local buses but that would mean 2 changes and lots of hanging around and as we are both not well we splash out.  The bus arrives on time having left Flores at 5.30am.  It’s a Toyota Coaster and reasonably comfortable but by no means luxurious.  Our luggage is added to the pile already on the roof.  Just over 2-hours later we arrive at the docks in Belize where lots of people get off to go to the islands and others get on.  So many board that we have to put the aisle seats down and even then one person is left standing.  Make it to the Belize border around 2pm and alight to do immigration.  Each person has to pay B30 (£10) departure processing fee plus B7.50 (£2.50) parks and conservation toll if you have been in the country for more than 24 hours.  This is a very slow process with only one clerk.  Back on the bus for a couple of minutes then all off, including luggage, for the Mexican entrance formalities.  This is a breeze and we are through in minutes and still have the remainder of our 180-day tourist visa.  It’s good to be back in MEXICO, almost feels like coming home. By 3pm we are at the main ADO bus station and from nearby take a taxi, P40 (£2) to Kathe’s.  Harry is waiting for us but the gardener tells us Kathe is out on a day trip with a visiting friend.  It’s still hot enough to make it worthwhile us washing out our holiday clothes in the pool.  We are both whacked and I am in bed before 8pm and Steve shortly after. 

CALDERITAS 

FRIDAY 30 JANUARY – We have both enjoyed a peaceful night and slept so well we did not hear Kathe return at 9.30pm.  It’s a beautiful hot day with a nice breeze so we take the rest of the washing down to the pool and do everything including the sheets; feel like the women we saw on the banks of the Rio Dulce.  We are both still a bit tired, not 100% well and feeling grumpy but manage to get a few odd jobs done throughout the day.  I check over our banking and find we spent almost £500 on our 13 nights backpacking trip, almost double what we spend in the motorhome and with much less comfort but worth it get a feel of the other countries.  Still feel it was the right decision for us, as we would not like to have taken Harry in without full insurance cover.

CALDERITAS 2

SATURDAY 31 JANUARY – We get up late again and Kathe has already left to take her friend to Cancun airport so we leave here a “Thank You” card.  In Chetumal we fill up the gas, get LPG and then do a grocery shop at Bodega, a.k.a Wal-Mart.  Around 10.30am we are ready to head west towards Palenque.  In fact we are now heading back towards USA, as the backpacking trip was our furthest point south.  Our first stop is to buy 3 good sized pineapples for P25 (£1.25), I cut one up straight away and we munch it as we drive along.  Going from the state of Quintana Roo into Campeche there is an inspection point, supposedly to confiscate eggs, pork and poultry.  A solider looks in our fridge then his mate on the doorstep asks if we have beer or coke – I say no even though beer is evident in the fridge.  A few yards further we are stopped for paperwork and they check the vehicle permit and our passports.  The road has been good so far but now becomes a mixture of good old road, bad old road, good new road, badly made new road and road works all complicated by topes either signed or un signed.  Driving here sure is interesting.  Kevin & Ruth came through a few days ago and told us about a Maya Campestre near km52 where they let you park overnight.  It is a lovely spot on the lake and we take a mid afternoon meal in their restaurant.  We still don’t have our appetites back so share a P70 (£3.50) Mexican special fish dinner of a whole fish cooked in tomato, garlic, onion and cilantro and served with tortillas.  3 motorcyclists arrive at the restaurant.  A Frenchman who lives in New York and his friend are cycling to Buenos Aires to set up a business and another American has recently joined them but is on his way to Argentina.  There are peacocks, chickens and roosters here but unlike Belize and Guatemala they seem to have their act together and all crow at the same time!

Hwy 186, Km 52, Restaurant Maya Campestre

148 miles

200901

THURSDAY 1 JANUARY 2009 – It is 9am and we are chatting to Carmen getting ready to leave when a taxi rolls up.  One of the Finish girls is unconscious in the front seat.  We manage to rouse her and get her to produce enough money from out of her bra to pay the taxi drive.  Carmen says she got a phone call a few hours ago from a guy in a car with the two girls asking where they lived.  The person themselves sounded drunk so Carmen suggested he put them in a taxi back.  It has taken until now for a taxi to show up but with only one of them, apparently the other has gone off with a man.  Guess they must have had a good time but for girls aged 29 and 40 we are a bit surprised at them leaving themselves so vulnerable although it now makes us less surprised by the story that one of them was mugged in Cuba a few days ago.  Kevin & Ruth want to see the hotel zone so we set off that way and see a few bars still open with customers.  Further south there is only one road and it runs near the coast so you would expect beach access roads.  This is not the case as it is full of huge luxury resorts with security at the gate.  Just north of Playa del Carmen Kevin has found us a Couchsurfing host in Sacbe.  This is a small ecological community inland.  People buy plots of land and build their own homes, using lots of natural materials, and have solar and wind power.  It is all in the jungle and the access roads are narrow with lots of trees so it’s an interesting drive in to say the least.  At one stage Ruth is up on the ladder watching the clearance as Kevin drives below low branches.  Surprisingly we make it to the far end to find the “white house”.  Lynn Earle was born in England, raised in Canada then moved here a few years ago.  She takes us for a walk around, explains the development and shows us some of the cenotes.  Due to the limestone here Yucatan has no above ground rivers but a honeycomb of these underground springs, rivers and caves.  There are many access points; Lynn even has a small one in her garden.  We have all had little sleep so afternoon siestas are the order of the day. 

SACBE

49 MILES

FRIDAY 2 JANUARY – Lynn has an open invitation for morning coffee and there we meet Tom & Joanne who are in the process of building a tree house here.  “Flower Bill” and his wife Jacqui have almost completed their home but have just built an extension that is being used by his sister Phemie.  We are invited to look around and love the extension where glass bottles have been embedded sideways in the concrete to create colourful windows with others inset with the necks sticking out to create hangers.  Their bedroom has a double bed that hangs by rope from the ceiling.  Tom & Jacque’s place is the tree house with room sections in different trees linked by skywalks.  Most people have built of wood and instead of windows have a fly screen large opening and a low thatched roof to keep most of the rain out.  Next-door is a huge concrete monstrosity whose owners are in dispute with someone in the community so it has been left to go to ruin.  Tom shows us some smaller cenotes and one has stalagmites that look like the New York skyline.  Early afternoon we set off in a car convoy to the beach.  Most people here have dogs and the nearest good beach that allows them is Xpu-Ha (Pronounced Ish Poo Ha).  Traffic is bad and made worse by the military checkpoint, road works and an accident.  Beach access is restricted but in this area you can pay to park at a campground or restaurant.  They enter at X7 Bonanza, P25 (£1.25) pp per day.  RV camping here is P150 (£7.50) and security tell us there is room for 2 motorhomes but we would love to know where as it is difficult to park 2 cars.  It is a pleasant bay but very busy.  Kevin, Steve & I decide to walk around to check out the camping options.  There’s a huge abandoned hotel nearby but access to their car park is security controlled and they want P100 (£5) per motorhome per night to park outside their gates leaving us a long walk to the beach.  Walking around the hotel it seems odd that no one has resurrected it as it was obviously very nice in its time and doesn’t look beyond repair.   Not sure whether this is one of the hurricane/insurance jobs or a money laundering affair – another Mexican mystery.  Further along the beach there is another campground north of Bonanza where we see Dean & Pinar’s motorhome and Aidan and Danielle’s but they are all out.  Others tell us the monthly rate is $450 (£300) and there looks like just enough space to squeeze us in.  Further along the beach there are no more camping options just an all-inclusive resort and small restaurants without good road access.  Back at the second campground we find the owner, Cellos, and negotiate $10 (£6.50), or P120 a day without facilities and arrange to arrive tomorrow.  It’s far from perfect but by far the best option we have had for ages and we all need a beach fix.  In the evening I invite K&R and Lynn for a chilli in our motorhome to round off the day.

SACBE 2

SATURDAY 3 JANUARY – Kevin suggested a 6am start to beat the traffic and get to the campground before the car park fills and blocks our access.  This is deferred to a more sensible 7am but they struggle to make it.  Not to worry as traffic is light and we arrive around 8.30am ahead of the day visitors.  We squeeze between two rigs on a site that no one wants because the electricity is not working whilst Kevin ends up on a sandy space opposite.  Catch up on news from Dean & Pinar and also Aidan & Danielle who have all been here for quite some time.  It would appear that everyone has realised this is the best and most reasonably priced spot along this coast.  Dean also smashed his wing mirror at the same place we did so we help him out with advice on fixing it.  We have a very pleasant morning on the beach then after lunch stroll to Bonanza.  Yesterday we met the parents of an English couple who are motorcycling round the world and want to chat to them.  Simon & Lisa set are 8 years into a 2 year trip but on a more challenging one than us.  At the moment her parents are visiting from England and fellow cyclist Graham is chilling out with them having been inspired by their web site www.2ridetheworld.com.  Late afternoon we walk to the far end of the beach then return for a card evening.

XPU HA BEACH CAMPGROUND

$10 (£6.65)

SUNDAY 4 JANUARY – We noticed many topless sunbathers in front of the hotel area so locate ourselves there in order to partake (Steve would have been most uncomfortable being topless alone!).  Ruth has invited us to lunch so we return for that and are joined by Dean & Pinar who also bring along a contribution.  Unfortunately Pinar is vegetarian so her salad and cabbage rice dish don’t appeal to me being a choc-ice and chips kind of girl.  We are keeping out of the sun in the heat of the day so wait until late afternoon to walk south and around a couple of headlands to a cenote that empties into the ocean.  Although the sea and fresh water mix the main pool is mainly fresh and lovely for a cooling dip.  It is so quiet there that we stay for sometime just watching the waves.  Finish the day with cards and a movie at K&R’s.  Reckon we could handle a good few days here.  Kevin is not such a beach bum as the rest of us but he will also be happy as he has managed to buy a 2-week Internet package for P125 (£12.50).  Not such a good night as the beach dogs kept setting of rounds of barking. 

XPU HA BEACH 2

MONDAY 5 JANUARY – We break up our morning beach stint with a walk to the north end passing more derelict hotels and restaurants.  In the evening we join our neighbours Andy & Margie for drinks along with Dean and Pinar.  Andy is from Walsall but has spent most of his life living in Germany where he met his wife.  They then moved to Jersey but now live in Alberta.  He has a fantastic stereo system where he bought a satellite package with his new car for $500 (£350) for life.  The fascia can be removed and fitted into a “boom box” which he is now using in his caravan or the full stereo system he has at home.  With it he has 24-hour choices of 100 channels of continuous music and we really enjoy the 60’s stuff.  Margie brings out her rum special drinks; they are almost entirely rum with just a hint of tonic and a squirt of lime.  One is enough for me but Dean & Pinar manage a few more and after we have left we lie in bed listening to their attempts at singing.  Dean is so bad at one point that Steve goes round with a bucket of water threatening to throw it on the strangled cats!

XPU HA 3

TUESDAY 6 JANAURY – Morning and afternoon sessions on the beach, a bit of hand washing and an afternoon siesta completes our day in paradise.

XPU HA 4 

WEDNESDAY 7 JANUARY – We are getting into a nice routine now.  First thing in the morning we do any odd jobs before it gets hot.  After a morning on the beach we walk up to the cenote late afternoon.  For the first time in ages we get a bit of rain in the evening but we are not surprised as the temperature has been climbing steadily and it usually culminates in a storm in the tropics.

XPU HA 5

THURSDAY 8 JANUARY – Call in at Bonanza and chat to the biker’s parents.  On the beach Graham gives us more info on Belize and Guatemala.  He is on his way down to Panama and Central America alone on his motorbike and like so many people sees this as a 2-year trip that may grow!  Kevin & Ruth want to go cycling in the afternoon and ask us to look after Whiskey giving me the chance to use Kevin’s Internet connection.  They go to Puerto Aventura and report of the Dolphin Experience.  People pay big money (prices are only in US$ so that tells you something) to interact with the friendly dolphins in a pool and you can buy combo packages to include manatee and seal experiences as well.

XPU HA 6

FRIDAY 9 JANUARY – Dean & Pinar head onwards; we may yet catch up with them on the west coast, although Pinar is talking of flying home from Acapulco. On the beach in the morning we chat to Graham and invite him for lunch.  He is motorcycling down to South America but has previously visited Guatemala and Belize so as he puts it we have a “cross pollination” of information.  In the afternoon I put a colour on my hair and do a mud face pack.  Luckily there are few people around, as I must look pretty scary covered in mud with a shower cap on. 

XPU HA 7

SATURDAY 10 JANUARY – Along with Kevin & Ruth we head north to the end of the beach.  We want to look at Xpu-Ha cenote but it is on private land but if you tell the guard you are at a certain hotel he will let you through.  It is part of the Palace Hotel complex but this front area has been devastated by storms.  We reach a lagoon and head inland to find the jungle cenote.  Steve & Ruth do a bit of snorkelling but don’t find anything of great interest and the water is so clear you can see most things without getting wet.  In the afternoon a very early happy hour begins at Andy’s next door.   This rolls on to the beach happy hour where Mike, Jacques and Bill are camped.  Graham calls round to return a book and to load episodes of  “Long Way Round and down” onto my laptop.  

XPU HA 8

SUNDAY 11 JANUARY – Kevin spoke to Chelleos yesterday and he said he would come for our money at 8am but of course no one shows up.  We find Victor and pay him the agreed amount.  On reaching the gate we are barred, first they don’t believe we paid and then they say we must pay the regular price of $15 when we agreed $10 just for parking.  They try to get more money from us but we stand fast and say 3 of us were there when Chelleos agreed the price.  We are not surprised as Dean had a similar problem when he had agreed $12, got asked for $15 and between running back to get the difference they told him the exchange rate to pesos had gone up.  Bad business in our opinion.  Anyway we finally get away and 17 miles down the road turn off to Xcacel beach with the turtle sanctuary.  It isn’t nesting season but it is still a nice beach with snorkelling and a cenote.  The guard says the price is P10 (50p) pp admission or P30 (£1.50) if we want to stay overnight.  We ask to look at the beach before deciding.  Kevin & Ruth now have a problem as they would like to stay but pets are not allowed.  The guard says they can walk Whiskey up the drive but that’s all and they don’t want to settle for that.  Meanwhile he has told Kevin the price is P100 (£5) because we have big vehicles (the same ones he saw when we first asked!).  We like it here so opt to stay and catch up another day.  It’s a really quiet beach and we spend the morning at the north end. Between about 1pm and 4pm it is really busy with locals.  The cenote at the south end is approached on a log path through a mangrove forest and quite attractive.  We have a very quiet night with no noise at all.

XCACEL BEACH

P100 (£5)

MONDAY 12 JANUARY – We drive out at 7.30am to find the main entranced chained off.  Steve has to go back to wake the guy up to let us out (he said it would be open from 7am).  In Tulum we drive out to the beach area, which has a relaxed backpacker feel with lots of simple huts.  You can stay in the car park of the fishing co-op in the motorhome (P80 pp).  Park up and check out the beach and the view of the superbly located ruins a little further north.  We’re half tempted to stay but our friend Sandra has just book to fly into Acapulco next month and we are not sure how much spare time we have.  The road to Chetumal is good on the whole and we make great time.  Bacalar looks a nice place to stop but it’s raining so the lagoon doesn’t look its best.  RV’er Cathe lives just north of Calderitas and there we find her home “Maricasa” and Kevin & Ruth parked in the garden.  Cathe moved here many years ago and has a large plot of land on the lake with two apartments.  She lives in one and rents out the other but at the moment has family staying in it.   K&R show us around the large garden complete with natural spring flowing into the lagoon.  We get more rain so settle for a card afternoon.  Ruth cooks delicious spaghetti bolognaises for supper and we round of with more cards and travel planning.

CALDERITAS

TUESDAY 13 JANUARY – We get heavy rain in the night and the storm is still rumbling when we get up.  I begin packing for our backpacking trip, 2 or 3 weeks around Belize and NE Guatemala.  The afternoon is dry so making use of the water from the fresh water pool we Steve washing the motorhome and I bathe in the pool.  Ruth & I give each other a pedicure.  We want to turn the fridge/freezer off when we leave and have lots of food to eat up so I cook a pork roast for us all at night.

CALDERITAS 2

WEDNESDAY 14 JANUARY – We all pile in a taxi to town, P70 (£3.50), as Kathe has booked us an appointment at the dentist.  It seems his speciality is cosmetic dentistry and before I know it I no longer have any gaps in my front teeth as he has built up the two either side of the front ones.  He wants to replace my enamel fillings with amalgam so I will return for that later.  Steve has a check and clean up and my caps are P500 (£25) each as is Steve’s clean up.  Kevin gets fitted for a new bridge and Ruth needs nothing so we are all happy with the result.  Walking through town we try to pay our tourist visa at the banks.  All say that we should have another piece of paper but we all only got one copy.  Eventually a clerk tells us to go to the “Hacienda Federales” where luckily a customer can translate.  We must go to a bookstore and buy a special form, take this to the immigration office on the outskirts of town, get this completed, return to the Hacienda to get it stamped and then go to the bank.  Tourist office tells us immigration is open until 4pm but we arrive to find it is only open 9am - 1pm.   It’s all a bit of a pain as we planned to leave first thing tomorrow for the border and may yet do that and take a chance.  We still have a bit of food to use from emptying the freezer so invite Kathe, Kevin & Ruth to join us for cottage pie.  Kathe tells us we should have no problem at the border as many people just go into the “free zone” for the day so we could sail past without handing in our tourist card.  She also tells us a huge storm is heading for the Yucatan peninsula with winds up to 120 kph.  Discussing it later we decide that we can’t take the risk as re-entry without the original card means they only give us one for 15 days and this is too short.  Guess we are British and not used to messing with officials!

CALDERITAS 3

THURSDAY 15 JANUARY – Get up to more heavy rain, certainly not the kind of weather conducive to back packing.  We have a taxi booked and intend to go to the immigration office and make a final decision based on their information.  Whilst waiting we talk ourselves in and out of the trip plan many times and when the taxi doesn’t show up we see this as an omen that we should not go.  Kevin has a problem as his fridge has stopped working, double problem as Kathe already told us hers was too full to store any food for us and ours has been turned off and we are almost out of gas.  Steve helps Kevin who decides to try and dry the connections with a hairdryer.  He then finds his generator won’t start but in the process the exhaust pipe drops off.  Mid afternoon we try our generator to try and help Kev but our battery is too low for it to kick in.  Talk about a day when things go wrong!  Kevin has been on the Internet and tells us he can see no sign of the approaching storm and in fact it should be better weather on Sunday.  Late afternoon it has dried up and we reassess our trip with me doing a "for and against" list.  Finally decide we will take our luggage and go to immigration in the morning and if we sort out the tourist card payment and they can assure us we can come back in for the remainder of the original 180 days we will proceed. 

CALDERITAS 4

200812

MONDAY 1 DECEMBER 2008  - Driving through, Casitas we get lots of people coming out trying to coax us into their restaurants.  When Steve and Kevin cycled through no one bothered them at all!  Just after Nautla Bridge (toll P31, £1.55) we take a detour down a rural road shown on the map to run between the coast and a lake whilst the main road veers inland.  The cobbled road improves when it turns to dirt.  This is obviously farming country and it is interesting to see the fences they use.  I’m guessing they originally planted saplings to use as posts for the barbed wire and these have grown into huge rows of trees many of which have large anthills in their forks.  On the poorer farms they have used Mexican barbed wire – the big round prickly parts of the cactus stuck into the ground and overlapping.  Many village homes are made from thin wooden poles stacked either horizontally or vertically. We see neither the lake nor the ocean but it is a very interesting drive. Back on the main highway we pass many banana plantations and fields of sugar cane.  Just north of Veracruz we turn off to go to Playa Chachalacas.  A section of the road is closed with road works so we follow the locals on a complicated detour.  I begin writing it down on a scrap of paper and my line falls of the side and then off the top of a second sheet!  Eventually reach the beach area lined with restaurants and shops.  It’s pretty bleak and made worse when we reach the southern end to find the parking area has piles of black sandy tar piled up.  Lorries seem to be ferrying the stuff on to the beaches, we think to fight the erosion problem.  Don’t know what the long-term plan is but it sure looks ugly at the moment.  We try the northern end of the beach beyond the village and find just a few homes.  There is no obvious parking place but a local directs us onto what looks like an unused garden.  It is a superb grassy field above the ocean and once parked up we see people sat around a table nearby.  Steve & Kevin go to ask if we park overnight and they say yes but want P250 (£12.50) per motorhome.  They are either having a bit of a laugh, as this is more expensive than any of the fully service campgrounds, or they don’t want us here.  Further back towards town is another garden where the lady is very pleased to let us both park and wants P25 (£1.25) each.  Our walk around the village doesn’t take long and doesn’t inspire us.  Still it is a good overnight stop meaning we can tackle the Veracruz by pass early tomorrow.

PLAYA CHACHALACAS

TUESDAY 2 DECEMBER – It has rained almost all night so we are up early but decide to wait until rush hour is over before leaving.  We’ve heard that Veracruz is motorhome unfriendly and those who have attempted to drive through it have often been fined on trumped up charges. It’s easy to get around it on the by pass (P59, £3 toll) but going is slow as usual.  At a complicated road junction youths offer to hold the traffic up to let you cross for a fee.  Going over numerous railway crossings a man is expecting a tip for standing waving a flag to say it is clear, doesn’t the fact that he is stood there give us a clue!  Alvarado is a traditional town between the lake and the ocean and we hear there are good fish meals at the Port Authority restaurant.  Driving to the port is through busy streets but at least we are following a bus so know there is room.  We can’t find the restaurant and it is chaos but we do park on the malecon and have a laugh at a local having his go cart towed by a motorbike.  The main highway takes us away from the coast and up through the hills towards the mountains.  There’s a Soriana supermarket on the edge of San Andres Tuxtla so we make a quick shop stop.  Another motorhome appears in the car park.  Peter, Gabi and 3-year-old Tommy are from Germany and come over regularly, buy a motorhome and tour.  They are going onwards to the same campsite as us and we agree to share a boat trip tomorrow.  On the edge of town we stop at the Santa Clara cigar factory to watch them in the making.  Lake Catemaco is a lovely spot with a very rustic “La Ceiba” camping on the edge.  Had Peter not been parked up we would have driven right past.  The boat trip is arranged for 9am and we settle in.  We hear the beautiful and unusual calls of many birds and feel like we are in the jungle.  Unfortunately at sunset hundreds of birds return to nest in the trees beside us and make a terrible noise for about an hour

LAKE CATEMACO, CAMPING LA CEIBA P100 (£5) no electric

130 miles

WEDNESDAY 3 DECEMBER – The noisy night birds also spend an hour screeching beginning around 5.30am and this wakes us all up.  After they have stopped it is hard to get back to sleep over the noise of the regular birds and traffic.  Hector takes us all off on the boat.  Boat trips advertise 12 attractions but most are very minor things such as the fisherman statue on the Malecon (the same one you see walking along), a small shrine, a posh house and a run down factory that used to bottle spring water!  Another stop is a place where they bottle a powder to mix with water for mud face packs, P150 (£7.50) for a large jar.  On the eastern shore of the lake at “Nanciyaga” (www.nanciyaga.com) you pay P50 (£2.50) per person to be guided through the rainforest.  The guide only speaks Spanish but gives us a sheet in English explaining the highlights.  We are led through the forest on a meandering track over a swing bridge above natural springs.  Medicine Man staring Sean Connery was filmed here.  Visitors can pay extra for mudpack facials, massages, bathing in the hot springs and spiritual cleansing.  They have a good deal on the overnight stay at P1000 (£50) for 4 people including treatments and I am quite keen for us to do it on my birthday but that would be difficult with Whiskey the dog.  Next stop on the tour is Monkey Island where university students imported a type of baboon to study then realised the boatmen were taking tourists to the island and feeding them bananas and stuff.  The trip ends after 3-hours.  A very pleasant ride overall and a good indication of the size of the lake and at P50 (£2.50) pp good value.  Steve & I are ready to leave tomorrow but Kevin & Ruth would like to stay longer so check out alternatives in the area.  They walk to the other campground Hotel Tepetepan and say it is better than this one but the pool is not open and it is more expensive.  Steve & Kevin cycle to Hotel Azul where you are supposed to camp but they are initially reluctant to offer camping and then do so at a high price and are way out of town.  In the afternoon we walk around the town, that’s the nice part about camping here as we are near to everything. The church is very impressive with a Madonna shrine above the altar and nicely painted walls and ceilings.  Late afternoon Steve & Kevin go to the local snooker hall and are happy to be able to play for P2 (£1) hour and drink family sized huge beers for P22 (£1.10), the guy is amazed that they have one each instead of sharing!

LAKE CATEMACO 2, LA CEIBA

THURSDAY 4 DECEMBER - The birds are driving us crazy so Steve & I walk to Hotel Tepetepan campground to see if it is quieter.  Leo & Judy, whom we met at El Tajin, are there along with their friends Don and Gwyn.  We chat over coffee and they say their birds are also very noisy.  Early afternoon Leo & Judy arrive in their 4wd and Don & Gwyn in theirs.  They invite Kevin, Ruth and us to join them for a ride out to the waterfalls.  “Cascade Salto De Eyipantla” are at the end of a bad road but it turns out we could actually have driven it carefully in our motorhomes.  Car parking is in a square surrounded by stalls and with children waiting to pounce on you the minute you step out of your vehicle.  Manage to make our way through the mob to the stairs that lead to the falls, P6 (30p).  Descending more than 200 steps we reach a beautiful waterfall, slightly curved, wide and quite high with an impressive flow and enough spray to give us a bit of a shower.  They are much better than we were anticipating and well worth the ride out.  The children continue to harass us back to the car and even on the road out one has a last try by having a rope across the road that he raises and asks for payment to drop it to allow you to cross.  Considering it is not much more than a piece of string held down by a stone at one end it is no real threat.  Return for a long happy hour session outside our motorhomes.  The others have heard that there is a confirmation ceremony in town at 5pm so we walk in together.  Market stalls are selling the mud pack stuff at P70 (£3.50) for the jars that were P150 yesterday and by the kilo for P30 (£1.50) and Ruth & I decide to share a bag.  In the centre of Catemaco a stage has been erected where they are piling cases of water and cardboard boxes.  Lots of people are seated obviously waiting for the main event. Leo goes for a wander and appears on the balcony of the town hall and waves for us to join him.  There are a few Mexicans up there but many small balconies so room for us all.  We have a grandstand view and feel a bit like royalty, especially when the announcer on stage points up to us and has the rest of the crowd look up and wave.  Not sure what he is saying but everyone is laughing and seems friendly.  We have no idea what the presentation is about but deduce that it is not a confirmation but more like the hand out of Christmas care type packages.  As we walk back to our campground the others hear our birds and comment that their noisy birds are nothing by comparison, had known that we would have moved there this morning but with only one day left it is not worth it now. 

LAKE CATEMACO 3, LA CEIBA

FRIDAY 5 DECEMBER – It’s my 52^nd birthday and I would have loved a lie in but the birds have not been notified.  It is also a drizzly dull day so my ideal of being on a beach in the sun is totally shattered but hey not having to go to work and not being in and English winter is still a bonus.  Kevin & Ruth come round to wish me a Happy Birthday, give me a card and a voucher invitation to a gourmet lunch, and for a 2^nd rate back massage, facial with mud mask, pedicure, manicure and hair styling at my convenience.  I appreciate a surprising number of birthday text messages, E-mails and comments on Face book.  Lunch is a tasty curry followed by an excellent home baked cheesecake.  Unused to drinking much I started with rum and coke, had wine with lunch and kahlua in my coffee so a brief siesta is in order.  Steve & Kevin can’t resist an afternoon fix of pool.   

LAKE CATEMACO 4, LA CEIBA

SATURDAY 6 DECEMBER – Making an early start is not difficult although how we can wake up at 6 and not leave until almost 8am beats me but the water is slow to fill and they have a gravity defying dump station!  The free road to Cosoleacaque is pretty good but even so progress is slow.  Join the main dual carriageway towards Villahermosa and pass numerous trucks decorated with “Guadalupe” religious themes and loaded with people.  Our guess is that this is some sort of pilgrimage as in front of each truck is a runner with a naked flame torch.  We turn off to La Venta the place where some huge Olmec heads were found in an ancient site.  They also found oil in the same area and this took priority so they moved the relics to a museum in Villahermosa.  It’s a long slow drive out to the coast with many sections rough gravel.  The local transport is mainly “triciclos”, various versions of pedal bikes or motorcycles either towing or pushing a carriage for passengers.  Mexicans seem oblivious to rubbish but in this area they have made a bit of an effort and piled it beside the road out of town.  A great place for bird spotting if you could stand the smell!  At Sanchez Magallanes we reach the coast but beach access is difficult.  There’s a restaurant car park just over the bridge, the parking area and beach are full of rubbish and it’s not great so we continue.  It seems to be a very poor area with most homes very simple basic shacks.  We seem to be driving through huge coconut palm plantations with big hills blocking the beach; even the lagoon on the other side can only be accessed through private property.    We are a bit disappointed, as we had envisioned a nice parking spot for a few days. Things get worse when we see the road ahead has collapsed into the ocean.  There is diversion down a rough track down through the palms and Steve walks it to make sure we can get through.  Having started the drive a motorcyclist comes towards us and tells us there is a bigger problem 2 miles further ahead, the road is completely gone.  We must continue the diversion then turn around and repeat our weaving through the trees.  Luckily Kevin waited to see how we got on.  Backtracking is a bit quicker as we are no longer looking for beach access.  Bahia de Acapulco restaurant car park that did not look good before now looks most appealing, especially after 7-hour driving.  The owner says we can stay overnight.  They play music a very high volume but fortunately close when it gets dark.  Throughout the night we get a number of cars visiting us with music blaring then in the early hours the dogs begin barking so not the most restful spot but safe anyway.   

SANCHEZ MAGDALLENES, BAHIA ACAPULCO RESTAURANT CAR PARK

169 MILES

SUNDAY 7 DECEMBER – The next beach west involves a couple of kilometres detour to Playa Palebot.  We spot a makeshift sign to “La Playa” and Steve and Kevin find out that it is access through a farmer’s field.  He says we can park there in the motorhomes overnight and walk 200 metres over the hill to the beach.  The family come out to look at our strange vehicles, don’t suppose too many motorhomes pass this way!  Driving through the farmyard is interesting as “Eduardo” has to open a gate to let us into the cow pen then lock us in whilst he opens an exit gate.  Kevin gets through but we are 6” wider than him and a tree branch obstructs us.  Eduardo jumps up to break it but ends up bouncing a couple of times before it snaps, much to everyone’s amusement.  We take a spot at the far end of the field near the palm grove leading to the beach.  Walking along the beach we see no one else at all and cannot understand why such a nice beach is not more popular.  Granted there is debris on the beach but we think this is from the storms.  In the afternoon Eduardo and his family come to visit us and his son shins up the tree to get us fresh coconuts.  With his machete he makes it looks so easy to cut into them and prepare them for drinking.  The cows are unafraid of us and totally oblivious to our presence but enjoy licking the salt off the motorhomes.  Now if we could sprinkle some all over we could get the whole van washed.  

PLAYA PALEBOT, EDUARDO’S FARM

P50 (£2.50)

MONDAY 8 DECEMBER – We’ve all had a nice quiet nights sleep, even if Kevin & Ruth were disturbed at one point with a cow rubbing up on the bikes at the back of their motorhome.  Steve & I spend the morning on the beach and find the water is pleasantly warm.  Unfortunately once I have been in the water the sand flies begin to attack me so we beat a hasty retreat.  Eduardo’s sons come over to visit and bring more coconuts.  They hang around wanting to either chat or just observe us but their English in non-existent and we struggle but they do seem to enjoy looking inside the motorhome.  We learn they are called Remigio (11) and Manuel (9) and 2 of 9 children.  Their sisters Maliza and Alberta also come down.  Think they have heard we have been giving out small gifts.  Whiskey helps entertain them by performing a few tricks and then they watch us playing cards and learn the phrase “pass”. 

PLAYA PALEBOT, FARMER EDUARDO’S FIELD

TUESDAY 9 DECEMBER – As usual we try to leave by 8am to give us chance to arrive at our destination by lunchtime and time in hand for unforeseen delays.  Before we even get off the farm we have a delay.  The track is narrow and we have to wind between trees and tree stumps.  On the two-way radio we warn Kevin of a narrow bit with a stump but he has the sun in his eyes and misjudges it.  We get a call to say they have totally wrecked their doorstep and are stuck.  Walk back to find that it is no exaggeration and the two-tier step has been ripped off and is mangled up against the rear tyres.  It seems to have bent back easily but when Steve & Kevin try to push it back into place it is impossible and they end up having to take it all off.  Knowing the resourceful Mexicans there is an outside chance of a repair so Kevin puts it in the locker.  We return to the main highway towards Villahermosa but take the free leg, which is a good run.  Head back out to the coast at Paraiso but have great trouble finding the recommended beach there.  Finally give up, as the signage is poor at best.  We pick up the road heading east along the coast but on the outskirts of town encounter a junction with a triple vertical stop light over the left lane and a seemingly broken light over our lane.  As soon as we continue a motorcycle policeman on the opposite side turns around to pull us over.  We tell Kevin & Ruth to keep going but the policeman indicates for them to pull up ahead.  He speaks no English and we pretend to speak almost no Spanish but hand him our fake English drivers licence and vehicle documents and understand he is accusing us of going through a red light.  He jabbers away in Spanish and we present him with our phrase book but he doesn’t want to book accommodation, catch a plane or visit the doctor so it is not much use to him.  We point to the phrase “sorry” and hope he will get frustrated and let us leave.  A local comes over and seems to be telling the policeman to let us go.  He gets his book and is poised to write a ticket.  At this point the local suggests we might want to pay the policeman something.  This was the line we were going down ourselves but didn’t want to seem to eager to offer a bribe but now seems a good time and P100 (£5) makes him a happy copper.  Kevin & Ruth, who have pulled up ahead, get off lightly as it seems our donation covers us all.  Making a slow and cautious exit through the rest of the town we begin an enjoyable drive past interesting lagoons and though many small villages.  Here the people seem more prosperous and we even see some huge new mansions being built.  It’s amazing how they use such bright and clashing colour combinations on the outside walls, bright pink with orange and lots of lime green with electric purple.  Leading up to Christmas many homes have small shrines set up in their entryway and the churches have flags outside.  Just before Chiltepec we turn off at a sign to Playa Belotte and at the end of a 1km track find an area to the right with parking by palapas beside a closed down restaurant.  It’s not a brilliant area but most acceptable in the middle of the afternoon.  Sit out on the beach until sunset.

CHILTEPEC, PLAYA BELOTTE

WEDNESDAY 10 DECEMBER – Drive around the cute little village of Chiltepec before managing to find the main road out.  Further along the coast The Rough Guide recommends Playa Azul and this turns out to be an attractive beach at the end of a main road with a nice grassy area for motorhome parking.  By 9.30am we are settled in our new spot sitting out looking over the ocean.  Kevin sets about fixing his step whilst Steve and I go for a walk into the town.  There’s a large school, a small public library (with less books than we have) and a couple of shops so thankfully not a lot to explore, as it is really very hot.  Kevin & Ruth join us for lunch followed by a card session.  They take Whiskey for a walk and I intend going for a swim before showering but notice the sky has suddenly turned very dark and decide to skip the swim part.  I have just got soaped up when it starts to rain heavily.  Steve has to bring all our stuff in and shut the windows and do what he can for Kevin & Ruth as they are not back.  The storm gets much worse with very strong winds and torrential rain.  Think someone must have forgotten to tell the weather that the hurricane season finished at the end of November.  Join Kevin & Ruth for evening cards and part of a movie.   

PLAYA AZUL

THURSDAY 11 DECEMBER – After a noisy night with the wind and rain hammering us we get up early.  Steve & Kevin are not keen to drive in this wind so we will sit the storm out here.  When the rain stops Kevin & Ruth go for a walk and tell us the school seems closed today, the children were there yesterday so this is strange.  Later in the day we hear lots of firecrackers going off so maybe there is some kind of celebration.  Take the opportunity of fixing up one of the 2 new blinds that we have bought and then spend the day reading and playing numerous games of cards with our neighbours.  Talk through a new tour plan that will put us on a campground in Merida city over Christmas and Cancun for New Year.  Feels a bit like New Year already with all the firecrackers going off but they are not a nice type and just make a terrific single bang like a loud gun shot, Whiskey hates them

PLAYA AZUL 2

FRIDAY 12 DECEMBER – The storm seems to have passed but it’s not a great day so the consensus of opinion is to drive a bit further.  I read up that it is a public holiday today for the “Virgin of Guadalupe” so that explains the rockets and also the pilgrims that we saw as their banners said Guadalupe.  It seems that celebrations vary from nothing up to whole villages congregating together for a communal meal.  At the junction with the main Mex 180 we stop at the Pemex station for gas, water and when we notice they have a proper dump station we make us of it after having a nice shower.  We are now on the “Ruta Sol Y Playa”, route of the sun and beaches so right up our street.  Near Frontera we turn of to Playa Del Bosque, for the first time we are on the worst level of roads shown on the map.  It’s a bit bumpy in parts and narrower than normal but we can still make it through and traverse wetlands with lily ponds and water buffalo.  The beach area is not worth the journey as we cannot get to what looks to be the best part and the alternatives are not great.  Entering Campeche state we are stopped and a nice guard who speaks reasonable English inspects our fridge for pork, chicken or eggs.  We knew these we banned so ate them rather than have them confiscated.  Mex 180 is the main highway along the coast and runs between the ocean and lagoons but also a swampy area with mangroves.  In Atasta we find a nice parking spot for lunch by the lagoon but it’s a bit early to stop for the night.  An impressive bridge leads us onto Isle Del Carmen; at least we can see where the P123 (£6.15) toll money goes.  Attempt to drive along the malecon but the road veers off into the town and looks narrow.  Luckily we have an escape route around the main square and the added bonus of seeing the really impressive Christmas decorations that they are just putting up.  Can’t quite make out whether it is a gingerbread theme or Disney but all looks beautiful.  Driving around Ciudad Del Carmen in no fun, even with their interesting roundabout features.  It’s the usual busy city traffic that seems to go on forever with the added worry of missing a red light!  We would rather have the little villages with all the topes than this. Further east we leave Isle Del Carmen over another expensive toll bridge, P121 (£6.05) and check out the free camping we have read about in Isla Aguada.  It’s at the old ferry port but not inviting and in a very poor area where kids keep calling out wanting money.  The nearby campground is our back up plan and at P240 (£12) night Steve & Kevin expect great things but are not impressed.  All the people there are from Quebec and parked very close together along the shoreline.  We would have to park on a bit of waste ground at the side.  The price is totally non-negotiable even if we don’t need electric etc so we decide not to stay.  It’s a difficult decision as it is almost 4pm so we head off quickly.  For the first time in Mexico we drive for miles with a very narrow strip of land between us and the beach and no possible places to park up.  I even consider asking the military if we can park in their compound overnight when we reach a check point.  Just as it is starting to get dark we spot a restaurant on the beach with a big car park.  Viaducto Playa is on the Peninsula El Palmar and the owner says we are fine to park overnight and safe because they live there.  Other than the fact we are near the road it’s a nice spot.  So having set off around 8.30am it is almost 5pm when we park up and still only 154 miles covered! 

PENINSULA EL PALMAR, VIADUCTO PLAYA RESTAURANT

154 MILES

SATURDAY 13 DECEMBER – We have a restless nights sleep and wake to a beautiful morning.  This is a lovely beach area but not an option for another night.  Before we are ready to leave with see 8 motorhomes going past in a caravan, probably the ones we saw in Isla Aguada campground yesterday.   Unfortunately we catch up with them in Champoton and have to queue behind them at the gas station.  Reckon it must take them the best part of an hour to get through as many have tow cars to tank up as well.  No one acknowledges us even though we smile a greeting.  We hope they are taking the main highway to Campeche, as we want to cruise along the coast road.  “Tucan Siho-Playa” is an amazing hotel created by resurrecting an old henequen fiber ranch.  They have wi-fi so we sit outside doing Internet and manage to get our Christmas messages.  There is a grassy area adjoining the hotel so maybe we could camp there and use the hotel facilities.  The receptionist thinks it would be OK but the manager will not be back for a couple of hours.  We will continue and phone up later if we haven’t found anything.  Seybaplaya is a small traditional and interesting fishing village where the boats have large poles angled out at the front and back of them.  Just beyond the village a local directs us towards the port at Payucan saying there is a beach around to the right of it.  It is a narrow road but we make it to the beach area strewn with derelict palapas.  It’s not looking good until I walk to the end of the road and discover a disused basketball court behind the ocean.  With hard standing parking and our own mini beach with a palapa each we are very happy.  Kevin even manages to get a feint Internet signal from the port.  On our right is a loading ramp and mid afternoon a couple of tub boats arrive and begin to tow the huge platform, complete with cranes, out to sea.  As to what they are collecting or delivering we have no idea but suspect the platform is some kind of dredger. 

PUNTA SEYBAPLAYA, PAYUCAN PLAYA

63 MILES

SUNDAY 14 DECEMBER – Wake to a perfect day after a nice quiet night.  Whilst I take a morning dip Steve has a bit of a snorkel but says it is too cloudy.  A few people come down throughout the day but it’s pretty quiet.  After watching an evening movie at Kevin & Ruths we hear loud music.  Steve goes for a walk and realises it is not from our beach area but sounds more like a disco over the hill.  Unfortunately it goes on until after 1am.

PUNTA SEYBAPLAYA 2, PAYUCAN PLAYA

MONDAY 15 DECEMBER – Kevin & Ruth are keen to move on this afternoon partly due to the noisy disco and fisherman this morning.  We rather like it here so will catch up with them in Campeche.  It’s granddaughter Natasha’s 9^th birthday so we walk up the hill to the port to get phone signal and send her a message.  It is so hot in the afternoon that I keep wandering over to our private beach for a cooling dip. A few clouds gather late afternoon giving us a really stunning sunset with the sky on fire.  Instead of the disco we get a car parked nearby but their music is much quieter and doesn’t go on so late so we get a good nights sleep. PUNTA SEYBPLAYA 3, PAYUCAN PLAYA

                                         AND ALL THE BEST FOR 2009

Seasons greetings once again as another year has flown by.  Hope this finds you well and that you have had a good year.

On the family front we have hatch, match and dispatch news. 

There has been one addition of a great niece Ebony (born to Steve’s sister Annette’s son Stuart) and Glen’s sister Annette is getting married to Ian next March, happily no deaths to report. 

Health wise Glen’s Mum had a hip replacement operation early in the year and was walking well but later in the year had a fall and needed the other one replaced.  Steve’s Dad had a pacemaker fitted in November and sounded better for it.  Everyone else is doing well. 

Claire is working with the same company and starting a course to become a chartered accountant whilst David is presently back fitting windows.        

We are both very well and needless to say still enjoying our nomadic lifestyle after an unbelievable 12 years on the road.  Many new friends have been made with the people we have visited through the various hospitality groups we are members of and this has enhanced our travel experience greatly.

At the end of last year we were in Mexicotouring around with our Canadian friends Ruth & Kevin following in their motorhome. We made it all the way down Baja California and at the tip of Cabo San Lucas had our English motorhoming friends Claire & Malcolm fly out to join us for 5 weeks. 

We shipped across to Mazatlan on the mainland where Kevin & Ruth headed off to Florida.  Touring down the coast we visited many small fishing villages then dropped Claire & Malcolm in Puerta Vallarta before venturing further south – alone in Mexico for the first time. 

All the horror stories we had heard proved unfounded and we had a fantastic time and found the people extremely friendly, helpful and with a good sense of humour.  We enjoyed Mexico so much and the motorhome was going really well that instead of selling it and ending our trip in June we decided to return to Mexico for the next winter. 

After a most enjoyable journey through  Texas, Louisiana, Alabama and Georgia we picked up the coast to travel through Florida to visit our friend Ricky in Miami.  There we had a good time being shown the area by a local and were glad not to have to drive the motorhome in the horrendous traffic. 

Near Orlando we parked Harry at Cypress Cove Resort.  Our Australian friends Ken & Kay flew in to visit us and to “house sit” whilst we flew back to England for 5 weeks. 

It was great to catch up with family and friends but after a couple of weeks the English summer weather was getting to us.  We’d had only ever had E-mail correspondence with fellow motorhomers Arf & Jean but arranged to meet up with them to do a 1 week cruise on the Nile in Egypt.  It turned out to be a fantastic trip with African Safaris in good company.  Even taking into account all the things we have already seen we were seriously impressed with the different temples and the pyramids.

When we flew back to Florida we took our youngest grandchildren Natasha (8) and Daniel (10) with us.  They had never been on such long flights before but coped admirably.  For the first time Harry had to accommodate 6 of us as Ken & Kay stayed on for a few nights.  It worked out really well although holding the maximum of 8 would have been pushing it.

We had a great week at Cypress Cove resort, and must have increased the profits of the sunscreen companies judging by the gallons we slapped onto the kids.  Moving up into Orlando we had bought 7-day tickets for Sea World and Aquatica and got great pleasure from seeing Daniel and Natasha enjoying the rides and shows. 

After 2 weeks Claire & Daz flew out to join us on the Disney campground.  This was the focus of the holiday and we visited every Disney attraction at least once and managed a break at the coast in the middle.  Having our grandchildren alone for 2 weeks and then the whole family together worked out really well and it was quite strange once they left. 

Reckon we must have picked up a hurricane special price as we got a real deal on a 4-day cruise to The Bahamas at the beginning of September.  Unfortunately Steve walked into a glass partition wall in the departure hall and almost knocked himself senseless, or did he?  Coupled with the change of cruise itinerary due to a hurricane coming through things did not work out quite as well as we had anticipated but we did enjoy half a day in Nassau and now want to visit more Caribbean islands.

We took our time following the coast back to Texas, met many new friends and really enjoyed places like New Orleans and San Antonio.  In November Kevin & Ruth met up with us to return to Mexico  This trip is to be down the east coast, across the bottom then up the west.  At one stage we hoped to drive down to Panama but the high cost of insurance was the last of many obstacles that we encountered and we threw the towel in on that plan.  We still hope to do a few of the countries in Central America by back packing from southern Mexico.  We think we will be spending Christmas on a campground on the outskirts of Merida city and New Year in Cancun but nothing confirmed.

Next spring or summer we will sell Harry and move on to pastures new.  If you know of anyone who wants to buy a very well laid out, reliable and much loved motorhome  then do let us know.  As a bonus we would leave all the contents and provide information on registration and insurance etc.

It is always good to hear news from our friends and family so please send us an E-mail when you have chance.  Visitors always welcome especially whilst we have this large motorhome.

I will be posting my diary entries and a few photos twice a month on the web site www.glenswatman.spaces.live.com but if you would like to receive the diary by E-mail once a month then please let me know, as I will be starting a new list for 2009.

Also when my laptop died I got a new one with Vista and this will not open my address file so I would appreciate it if you would tell me which E-mail address you prefer to use, your mailing address (and home address if different), phone numbers etc so I can begin a new one.    

Love and best wishes from

Steve and Glen

SUNDAY 16 NOVEMBER – We sleep well, even though I have to get up and put a second duvet on when it gets really cold, and don’t wake up until almost 8am.  I do a last minute stock up of things that are hard to find in Mexico such as strong cheese, beef and bacon.  Kevin has a problem with Sherman and needs a new alternator.  Drive him across town to pick one up as he can fit it himself.  By mid afternoon he has figured that the new one is faulty and that another must be ordered.  Whilst it’s a very convenient place to park, and shop, you can’t exactly set your table and chairs out so we play cards in Sherman in the afternoon and again at our place after I have cooked us a roast dinner.  Steve’s taking this very seriously as he has organised a league table for the time whilst we are with Kevin & Ruth

BROWNSVILLE 2, WAL MART

MONDAY 17 NOVEMBER – A bonus of being parked here is that every time I think of something we need I can nip in the store and buy it.  Reckon I am averaging a visit every 2 hours so Mr Wal Mart will be pleased.  Steve also cashes in and buys and fits Harry with a new air filter.  There’s a motorhome parked next to us and a ticket in the window says it has been unattended for a work.  Security are getting a bit concerned, we hope there is no one dead inside it.  Police and other people are called to assess the situation.  We miss the outcome, as Kevin needs taking to collect the new alternator.  Call in at Staples to do some photocopying.  We’ve been advised to get good colour copies of all documents and to laminate copied drivers licences to avoid handing over originals.  Staples are not allowed to do this but you can use their self-serve machines to do it yourself.  The results are really excellent.  Arrive back at Wal Mart when Kevin asks for their driver’s licences back.  We beat a hasty retreat to Staples to find them all still in the machine!  The alternator solves Kevin’s problem so we are mobile again and head to host Shawns place where he has said we can park in the street.  Behind his house is a network of canals and a picnic area.  Pull up and Steve checks with the neighbours opposite that we are not going to be a problem.  Everyone in this area is Mexican looking, very laid back and not the least bit bothered by us being there.  Ruth, Whiskey and I take one of the many walks around the canals and it is really pleasant.  Unfortunately Shawn never arrives home, we think this is a second home, but we stay the night anyway as one of the neighbours works for the council and says it is OK.

BROWNSVILLE 3, HOUSING ESTATE

TUESDAY 18 NOVEMBER – The news from England is good.  Steve’s Dad had a pacemaker fitted today and is back on the ward drinking tea.  My Mum is now walking on just one stick and physio is down to once a week.  At 7.45am we head to the Veterans International Bridge, $7 (£5) motorhome toll.  Good parking by a redundant gas station enables us to walk back to the American immigration to hand in our visas.  On the Mexican side we are flagged over so they can check the 10-year permits for the vehicles that we got last year.  We stay in line and walk to the office for the tourist visas.  A few yards further we are stopped for another inspection, this time just a walk around by armed guards.  Drive into MEXICO in the city of Metamoros.  Immediately join the ring road and using the “Mexico Campground” directions connect to the main Mex 101 road south towards Victoria.  It is obvious we are in a Mexican city, poor and congested roads, haphazard traffic and people actually walking around!  There are lots of places to get propane (could have saved ourselves quite a wild goose chase on Saturday) so we top up and head off.  Roadblocks are frequent but the guards are all very courteous.  The final one is more thorough as we have to step out of the motorhome whilst a guard and dog go inside.  The dog bounces round on the bed then the guard lifts the bed to check the storage underneath and does the same with the sofa.  Reckon I should have put newspaper on the cream bedspread as well as over the new carpet.  The guard asks where we are from and associates Great Britain with London.  He then goes to Kevin & Ruth and asks if Great Britain is connected to Canada!  They try to explain whilst Whiskey barks at the guard who then decides not to enter their motorhome.  We’re in flat farming country, traffic is light and the driving is easy once we get into Mexico mode of pulling half onto the hard shoulder to let people pass.  Stop in the first largish town of “San Fernando De Presas” to use the ATM.  Last year we were getting Pesos 22 - £1 this year it is down to just under Pesos 20 but that is not bad compared to the drop in the USA $ from over $2 to £1 down to less than $1.50 = £1 this last few days.   Where we turn off to Tampico on the Mex 180 there is a gas station with huge parking area and this works well for lunch.  Too early to stop for the day we press on into hilly country.  Unfortunately the RV dry camping by Lavanderos Lake, mentioned in Sanborns log, no longer exists.  A few miles South we cross the Tropic of Cancer marked by a crumbling small yellow ball.  We only have a couple of hours daylight left so at the next Pemex station, about 15 miles south, we ask if we can park overnight.  The friendly owner leads us to a grassy area round the back and he and his mate seem very happy with a couple of beers each as payment.  There’s a big American coach here and Steve & Kevin chat to the owner.  Kevin Mayo owns a fishing camp 1/8-mile from here and invites us to walk over and visit tomorrow.  Sitting out on the lawn Kevin cooks up hamburgers for us on his BBQ then we round of the day with cards.

15-MILES SOUTH LAVADEROS. PEMEX STATION

217 MILES

WEDNESDAY 19 NOVEMBER – The fishing camp is on the edge of the lake.  When we get there the Mexican manager shows us around and explains the set up.  Fishermen are brought here from Louisiana on the couch the front of which is like an RV at the front with lots of lounge seating, a dinette, kitchen and bathroom.  However the rear half has been built with 3 tiered bunk beds to sleep 12.  AT the camp they have simple en suite accommodation, get their meals in the dining room, drink in the palapa overlooking the lake and of course go fishing every day.  We tell Kevin it would make a great RV stop and he asks us how to promote it that way.  Continuing our journey south we pass many ranches as we traverse the hilly green countryside.  Aldana is the largest town for miles so we do a quick shop but the few internet signals are secured.  Its 39lm of often rough and pot holed road to the beach.  It looks like a very pleasant area with a few restaurants, palapas with tables and dubious looking electric sockets and a grassy area at the far end, which is where we pull up.  The nearby restaurant owner introduces himself, tell us we are fine parking there and offers water, electric and whatever else we may want.  Of course he also mentions we can drink and eat in his restaurant which we will in due course.  We soon have our camp set out and spend the rest of the day relaxing.  Kevin is very happy and says this is just what he has travelled 3000 miles for.  Ruth treats Whiskey with some pesticide drops to stop her getting fleas and ticks.  We join them to watch the DVD Juno, an unusual and funny story about a teenager who gets pregnant.  By evening Whiskey is not a happy puppy.

BARRA EL TORDO BEACH

54 MILES

THURSDAY 20 NOVEMBER – We had a bit of rain in the night but it is hot and sunny by 8am.  Kevin & Ruth had a bad night with Whiskey and ended up having to wash the rest of the stuff off.  Take a long walk south along the beach but other than some palapas that could only be reached with a 4wd along the beach there is nothing but miles and miles of sand.  I invite K&R to join us for lunch and we sit out having a curry enjoying our beachside setting.  The beach gets busy in the afternoon with locals walking along, some kids playing football and a few youths messing around in a yellow Corvette jacked up on truck 4wd chassis.  We go in for a swim and the water is the perfect temperature.  Can’t understand why more motorhomes don’t come here.  Cards at ours in the evening and we refresh K&R’s memories on canasta.  Occasional rain through the night but if it’s going to rain then that’s the best time for us.  

BARRA EL TORDO 2

FRIDAY 21 NOVEMBER – Unfortunately cooler weather is coming in from the north and bringing a bit more rain.  Pass the time playing Euchre at K&R’s in the morning and Canasta at ours in the afternoon.  Delivery vans drop off supplies, tables and chairs to the restaurant for the fishing competition.  Watch a DVD about the supposed 9/11 conspiracy in the evening but instead of answering questions it just raises more.

BARRA EL TORDO 3

SATURDAY 22 NOVEMBER – It’s the day of the fishing competition and the guy has a marquee out on the beach but seemingly no entrants.  It is a poor day but we also suspect that his advertising was a bit sketchy to say the least.  Decide that we will all go over there for lunch and have a most enjoyable fish dinner for Pesos 50 (£2.50) each and this includes tortilla chips and extremely hot salsa to start with.  We are his only customers so Claudio seems happy to have our business and hangs around chatting to us.  We suspect that the beer company Tecate have sponsored the competition as the party tent and other stuff has their Tecate Light sign on and that is the only drink he has to sell.  He has postponed it until a week tomorrow.  Tell him we will probably leave tomorrow if the weather is not great and he tells us of a short cut road to Tampico, at least we thing that’s what he has said. Apparently this northerly wind has brought cold weather to much of the states with Houston getting ice.  The beach is busy in the afternoon, kids playing football, quad bikes racing along as well as the jacked up Corvette.  Good entertainment.   

BARRA EL TORDO 4

SUNDAY 23 NOVEMBER – Back track towards Aldana then take the turn off towards Maron.  The road is reasonable for the first few kilometres but becomes pot holed and bumpy.  Kevin is in the lead and we take note of his slalom course to avoid the worst holes.  Our map does not show a bridge over the River Tiger connecting with the onward road but Claudio assured us there was one.  We arrive at the river with no way forwards.  When we get out of the motorhomes we are very happy to see the bridge upstream.  Getting onto it is a bit of a challenge as the ramp leading up to it is just a pile of large pebbles.  Beyond the bridge the road is good and we pick up speed.  This is a citrus growing area and we do a drive through style purchase of a bag of Satsuma style oranges for P10 (50p).  Tampico is a nightmare of traffic but again the Mexican Camping book gives us good directions to lead us to the otherwise un-sign posted by pass.  At the first toll both we are charged the cargo price of P39 (£2).  The road deteriorates so we can only assume the toll was for the stretch before it.  A second toll of P10 (50p) gets us over a bridge and on to a really shocking stretch of road where pedestrians make quicker progress than vehicles.  We’ve chosen to do some driving today figuring traffic would be lighter but there are still lots of trucks around and the road is very busy.  Drivers have little patience and overtake on blind bends and going up hills.  As if the bad road surface is not slowing us down enough we have to contend with the “topes” (sleeping policemen) in the villages.  Many of them have no warning so locals have taken to standing at the edge pointing them out in the hope of a tip.  It is really slow progress and hard work for the drivers so when we see an RV park we check it out.  They will not negotiate the $15 (£7.50) for camping with no facilities and say that we must park right near the main road in a muddy area, no thank you.  To avoid Tuxpan we take the Alamo by pass.  It’s getting late so we settle for free camping at the first Pemex that we see.  They sell diesel as well as regular petrol so it is frequented by trucks but at least we will be safe and in fact further off the road than at the campground.  We settle on a spot at the back near some grass.  Stepping out of the vehicles we are surrounded by young children.  They want to clean our windscreens with their dirty water and mucky rags!  Attempt to have a bit of a chat with them but they won’t go away.  Decide that if we give them all a small gift they will leave us in peace but it actually makes them worse and we end up wishing we had not bothered.  Shut ourselves inside the motorhomes until they eventually go away.  After 7 hours hard driving we have come just 187 miles but it feels like much more and we are all exhausted and opt for an early night.  Unfortunately a truck pulls up right beside us and seems to have engine problems as they keep returning to it and revving it up then going off again.

N OF ALAMO, PEMEX 4131

187 MILES

MONDAY 24 NOVEMBER – Set off fairly early and find the road improves somewhat, well relatively so!  There are many really big topes that almost make you come to a stop and vendors make the most of it by standing there with their wares.  Pull up at the roadside stalls and pick up a huge bag of oranges for P20 (£1) and a bunch of 40 miniature bananas for P10 (50p).  Make a wrong turn into Poza Rica but this works well as we stop at a gas station to ask directions and find ourselves next to the local market.  The produce looks very good quality and we pick up tomatoes at P10 (50p) kilo, onions P12 (60p) kilo, potatoes P8 (40p) and 2 green peppers for P10 (50p).  All the stalls charge the same price so Ruth and I meander amongst them and try to by a little from each one.  Further along the “wrong” road we see a huge Soriana supermarket and do our first proper grocery shop in Mexico.  We’ve been seeing signs for El Tajin archaeological site for over 200km’s and this is our destination a bit further south.  Entrance to the site is down a dual carriageway but street stalls have covered more than half the lanes meaning we almost hook and handbag with our bumper.  The parking attendant says we can stay overnight and the charge is P20 (£1).  Settle in to a corner spot and have lunch.  Admission including museum is P48 (£2.50).  The museum gives us a good overall picture with the model of the site.  Once we enter the real site we are impressed by the large collection of buildings.  We wander through the area reading signs pointing out the function of the most important buildings, in Spanish and English.  You can no longer climb any of the pyramids but we do get an overview from the hill at the far end of the site. Whiskey to dog has been allowed in and when a fellow tourist takes a photo of us all together it makes me think we look like an older version of Enid Blyton’s Famous Five checking out the mystery of the ancient ruins!  Highlight of the site is “The Piramide de los Nichos” and the best example the 13 ball courts is the south one with some good bass reliefs.    At the entrance to the site “The Voladores de Papantla” perform their ritual dance that involves 4 men gliding down from the top of a pole on a rope.  Late afternoon another motorhome arrives.  Leo & Judy are from British Columbia and have been coming to Mexico for 11 years but never to this area. 

EL TAJIN

51 MILES

TUESDAY 25 NOVEMBER – Make a late start for the coast.  Navigate the notoriously difficult Papantla easily (from El Tajin, left to Papantla, left at T junc sign Poza Rica and Tecolutla, right at next T junc sign GZ Zamora, straight on until you veer right onto main Mex 180 to coast).  Toll over the bridge is P31 (£1.60) and then we reach the coast. It is obviously a holiday area as the road is lined with stalls selling beachwear.  The main road runs very close to the beach leaving just enough space for small homes, hotels and tiny campsites, impossible for us to access.  Kevin needs Internet and has negotiated to stay at D’Alba, which looks really nice on the web site.  Mike meets us at the gate, says the best price they can offer is $90 (£60) week or $15 (£10) night if we don’t take electric, a bit of a joke as the electric is off anyway and they only have power when he runs the generator.  It all looks a bit run down but we reluctantly take a spot near the beach thinking that maybe everywhere is the same.  Mike dashes off into town before we get chance to check things out thoroughly and realise how bad it is.  It is a cloudy day so we are not seeing it at its best but even so there is no Internet and the swimming pool has not been cleaned for ages.  When I go to have a shower the toilet block is dirty, there is only cold water and the walls are mouldy with paint peeling off.  None of us are thrilled so Steve & Kevin go off on the bikes and come back with news of a much nicer place further on and cheaper too.  Leave a note for Mike and head to Mision Del Mar Hotel with a lovely big swimming pool and grassy camping area beside it.  Beyond the swimming pool towards the beach is a huge concrete pad backed by a big wall with a giant cross.  Suspect that this is the “chapel” their sign mentions and boy would it make a stunning location for a wedding.  Although the shower block is clean and tiled there is no hot water but they give us a key so we can use the bathroom in one of their hotel rooms.  P70 (£3.50) pp per night also includes electric and Internet – no contest.  Spend the afternoon catching up on messages.  Steve goes for a stroll even further along the beach and makes us laugh when he says he has found an even better deal.  It doesn’t have Internet but everything else at Casitas del Tajin is on a par with this place and even cheaper at P47 (£2.40) pp so may move there tomorrow.   

COSTA ESMERALDA, (JUST N OF CASITAS) MISION DEL MAR HOTEL CAMPGROUND, P70 (£3.50) pp inc electric

44 MILES

WEDNESDAY 26 NOVEMBER – Wake to a lovely sunny day so we all go for a walk along the beach to check out the next place.  It is as Steve reported and you can camp directly above the beach on hard standing, much better for Whiskeys paws than the grass with prickly things.  Having caught up with our Internet we decide to move.  After a nice swim in the pool at Mision Del Mar we pack up to drive a few hundred metres to our next spot.  We take the last two sites before the beach as the only other camper, Jim from Kansas, has taken one further in.  Literally a few metres from the beach it will probably be noisy with the waves crashing in but we’ll take ocean noise over traffic any night.  In fact looking along the coast it looks like some people are trying to extend their properties onto the beach area using different types of barriers.  This doesn’t always work as we see many “half houses” hanging on the bank with the broken walls in the sand below.  Whilst Steve & Kevin go off for a cycle ride I make the most of the nearby water supply to begin giving the van a thorough clean.  The lad’s return and joke that they have found a cheaper place, they have at P30 pp a night but they say it is really grotty and this seems to be the best around.  When we come to pay we find out that they have a sliding scale and have arrived at the cheapest time but it goes up tomorrow.    We are all very happy here so don’t mind and we can see the logic behind it other than the Thursday night increase.  During the cycle ride they also found a bar with TV showing football in the next village of Casitas so Steve & Kevin go off in the afternoon for Steve to watch the match and Kevin to do Internet. 

COSTA ESMERALDA 2, CASITAS DEL TAJIN CAMPGROUND

Sun – Wednesday camping is P47 (£2.40), Thursday night P58.50 (£3), Friday P70 (£3.50) and Saturday P80 (£4) per person

1 MILE

THURSDAY 27 NOVEMBER – Thanksgiving Day in America but more importantly Ruth’s birthday.  When she comes back from her morning jog she thanks us for our gift and card.  We’ve collected a couple of coconuts that have fallen from the trees and Steve & Kevin attempt to get into them to make a pina colada drink for Ruth.  We’ve seen it done before, very easily with a machete, but with an axe and saw it is far more entertaining.  There are now self service laundries around here so we set about doing a load by hand and soon have it out on a line between two palm trees. We invite Ruth and Kevin to “Harrys at Casita El Tajin, waterfront restaurant for lunch.  Improvise a menu giving them lots of choices.  For main course they can opt for Chilli con carne, Glen’s spicy stew or mince with onions, peppers, beans, garlic and chilli!  We’ve got a stunning location with the table out on the terrace.  Steve acts as the wine waiter with a tea towel over his arm and the 5-litre box of red wine balanced on top.  We begin our meal with nachos served with warm cheese sauce, sour cream, salsa and Mexican sauce.  When we get to the rice and chilli con carne I realise I have forgotten to add the chilli but we manage to pep it up by adding hot salsa.  Fresh fruit salad in brandy is served with custard followed by coffee and brandy, cheese and biscuits.  It is the first birthday Ruth has had outside Canada so you’ve just got to do the going in the ocean thing so we all head into the ocean for a quick game of Frisbee.  The water is really quite warm, in fact much warmer than the pool that we migrate to afterwards.  What is really nice about the set up here is that you have the same facilities as the hotel guests at a fraction of the cost.  Jim comes round for an early evening drink.  He is travelling alone and spends much of his time pursuing his photography hobby.  He lends us his “People’s guide to Mexico” which makes very interesting reading.  

COSTA ESMERALDA 3, CASITAS DEL TAJIN

FRIDAY 28 NOVEMBER – Mid morning Whitney & Jan arrive.  I’ve been in E-mail contact with them since Whitney replied to one of my forum postings about Central America.  They toured there last year so we hope to learn more about the area; although now we are not taking the motorhome in we are a little less eager.  Whitney built their 4wd motorhome from the chassis upwards and has pretty much the perfect vehicle to go anywhere but this year is taking a relaxing trip on ordinary roads within Mexico.  They have two large red Dobermans, Sassy & Josh, with them and we are amazed how quiet and placid they are.  We get together again in the early evening for “Happy Hour” and a chat.  I’m really impressed with the “Moon” guide they are using for the Pacific Coast; although I do use the Internet for research I am a book person at heart.

COSTA ESMERALDA 4, CASITAS DEL TAJIN

SATURDAY 29 NOVEMBER – Witney & Jan move on followed shortly by Jim who is going to stay at a nearby resort where he is doing photography work for them.  There is no automatic laundry around here so Steve & I tackle our sheets by hand.  With the sunny morning and breezy afternoons drying should not be a problem.  We walk back to Mision Hotel to catch up on Internet but the connection is frustratingly bad.  In the evening we watch the Catherine Cookson film “The Cinder Path” and recognise many of the locations where it was filmed, a million miles away from the scenery round here for sure.

COSTA ESMERALDA 5, CASITAS DEL TAJIN

SUNDAY 30 NOVEMBER – There’s a change in the weather with a northerly wind.  Ruth invites us for a clam chowder lunch, perfect in the cooler weather.  Just after we have gone to bed we get the rain but it is not bad.  Last winter we had no rain whatsoever in Mexico so I reckon this is because we have arrived earlier and within a couple more weeks we should have no more. COSTA ESMERALDA 6, CASI

200811

SATURDAY 1 NOVEMBER 2008 – We begin the task of cutting out the carpet to fit the van.  Having made paper templates of the areas we want to fit we realise we can also do the cab and the hall and bathroom with a join leaving just the kitchen with lino.  Late morning Narlie is heading out to the commissary grocery store and I join her.  It’s a typical American base supermarket but with lower prices on most items however too busy for my liking.  Return to find Steve has almost finished the initial laying of the carpet and it looks fantastic, the colour is perfect and it feels so cosy.  We’ve done it in such a way that if we are at the beach we can easily remove all or just sections of it.  Narlie cooks a prawn gumbo soup for our evening meal and it is very tasty.  They have to pop out for a couple of hours but rejoin us in the motorhome for a last drink and chat.

SAN ANTONIO 2, BALCONES HEIGHTS

SUNDAY 2 NOVEMBER – The clocks went back 1 hour last night, now 6 hours behind GMT.  Not really happy about this as it will be dark by around 6.30pm.  Frank has already left for work when we get up and Narlie is getting ready to go to church.  We make the most of the quieter traffic to escape San Antonio.  Begin to see lots of RV’s on the road; almost all are 5^th wheels down from Canada for the winter.  In Corpus Christi we head for the beach area and walk along to look at the impressive US Lexington aircraft carrier with planes visible on the deck.  Fill up with gas at just $1.89, that equates to 33p so 1/3 of the price in England.  We planned to go out to camp on Padre Island for up to a week but cannot find anywhere open selling propane and only have enough for about 3 days.  Settle onto Wal Mart for the night.  Unfortunately this one has a tannoy system with speakers apparently aimed towards the car park so we hear service announcements all through the night.

CORPUS CHRISTI WAL MART

MONDAY 3 NOVEMBER – Head out over the bridge to the National Seashore where our dated national parks pass saves us the $10 (£6.50) 1 month park entry fee.  Stop off at the visitor centre to use the cold showers then drive onto the beach.  It is almost deserted so we are happy to park up just a short distance along.  We are surprised by how clean it all is as following Gustav loads of debris ended up here.  Apparently people were allowed onto the beach to take whatever they wanted leaving less for the park rangers to deal with.  I read on the Internet that one couple salvaged a Coca Cola vending machine complete with the drinks and the money already put into it.  For the first time we get to use the windbreaks that we brought from England and boy do they make a difference making it pleasant to sit out by the van versus being sand blasted on the other side.

NORTH PADRE ISLAND, MESQUITE BEACH

TUESDAY 4 NOVEMBER – We have a jobbing morning and get the finishing touches done to the carpet amongst other things.  Late afternoon we walk north to the campsite to make a phone call and use the showers.  It’s Election Day here and the news seems to indicate that America is about to have its first black president in Obama. 

NORTH PADRE ISLAND 2

WEDNESDAY 5 NOVEMBER – We get up late, it’s been a windy night and we need a lie in plus Steve has a bit of a sore throat.  The storm has cast more debris onto the shore so we take a walk south.  Most of the trash is bottles and toiletries but there are a couple of safety helmets, lots of barrels and bits of wood.  We try to sit out in the afternoon but the wind swirls the sand around and I can only stand it for so long.  After showering in the van I continue with my Central America tour planning.

NORTH PADRE ISLAND 3

THURSDAY 6 NOVEMBER – Steve’s still not feeling too good so lays on the bed reading whilst I do more planning.  As I now have my Lonely Planet and a map of Central America I have enough to keep me occupied for many a day reading up on the 7 new countries we hope to tour, Belize, Guatemala, Honduras, Costa Rica, Nicaragua, Panama and El Salvador. Late afternoon a couple of small Mercedes Sprinter type motorhomes pull up.  Duncan has been living in Mexico but has come back to sell all the stuff he stored in Austin because he now wants to travel more in his motorhome.  Frank and Diana are from Florida and have been off on a big trip but met Duncan a few years ago and kept in touch because they have the same vehicles.  They have just come from their rendezvous on Boca Chica beach.  Duncan is planning a trip down to Argentina so we have lots to chat about.  They invite us to join them for a fish supper around their campfire and we add a stir-fry veg dish to the menu.  Good company and a pleasant change from being alone. 

NORTH PADRE ISLAND 4

FRIDAY 7 NOVEMBER – We’ve had a rainy and windy night and it is not a pleasant morning.  The wind has changed direction and blasts through our door when we open up.  Duncan has lent me his book “99 days to Panama” an exploration of Central America by motorhome so I’m set up for the day.  I’ve wanted to buy it but never found anywhere that could deliver to a forwarding address at the right time.  I’ve invited the others down for a pasta lunch and this goes on until after 4pm.  Rejoin them in the evening and Duncan cooks up some Mexican food, which really whets our appetite for the upcoming trip.  Duncan used to run a couple of large restaurants but was in a bookstore one day and saw a boot titled something like “You don’t need a million to retire”, realised this was true and got out.  

NORTH PADRE ISLAND 5

SATURDAY 8 NOVEMBER – Our new friends move on.  Steve is not feeling too well, sore throat and a hacking cough from time to time so unfortunately is not in the best of spirits to enjoy the glorious day.  The beach gets really busy and a few tents appear near us.  It’s quite amazing to see the headlight procession along the beach as the day-trippers leave.

NORTH PADRE ISLAND 6

SUNDAY 9 NOVEMBER – Steve slept in the front of the van last night so we both had a better night.  It’s a blustery cloudy morning so Steve packs up and after lunch we head towards the campground.  There we make use of the free dump station and take a nice long shower.  Bird Island is the other free camping spot on the opposite site of the barrier island and a bit more sheltered.  Few motorhomes of there but the windsurfers are out in full force. 

NORTH PADRE ISLAND 7, BIRD ISLAND

MONDAY 10 NOVEMBER – After rain in the night we are inspired to clean the sand off the van.  Walk around the area in both directions but to the south the “beach” becomes a bog and north is a dead end at the camping spit.  It’s still very windy but we have reasonable shelter from the motorhome and no sand blasting us.

NORTH PADRES ISLAND 8, BIRD ISLAND 2

TUESDAY 11 NOVEMBER – It’s Veterans Day here and we expected a lot of day visitor but this is not the case so maybe it isn’t a public holiday.  Usual day reading, trip planning and cleaning. 

NORTH PADRE ISLAND 9, BIRD ISLAND 3

WEDNESDAY 12 NOVEMBER – The dull start to the day makes it easier for us to leave.  In Corpus Christi we shop at HEB, get the brakes checked in readiness for our big trip south (all OK) and the tyres blown up.  Heading south we are travelling roughly along the inland border of King Ranch, the oldest and biggest cattle ranch in the United States.  Pull onto Wal-Mart in Kingsville.  The snowbirds (winter Texans) are definitely here as there are 3 motorhomes from Quebec corralled at one side of us along with other North American vehicles. As is often the case we are the smallest and most simple one.

KINGSVILLE WAL MART

THURSDAY 13 NOVEMBER – It’s a cool and rainy day and the rain gets worse.  By the time we reach Harlingen we have to wait for a lull to get out to look at the Iwo Jima memorial.  The tallest memorial sculpture in USA it is the plaster cast over which the copper version was cast for Arlington Cemetery.  The museum has a most interesting 30-minute film explaining the importance of Iwo Jima Island.  Late in the war the Americans needed to capture it for a staging post.  It should have taken 3 days but the Japanese had hidden themselves in a catacomb of interconnecting tunnels on many levels covering the whole island.  The final battle lasted over 3 weeks with huge loss of life but the victory was a major factor in the whole war.  Nearby the Arts & Heritage Museum is a small collection of original buildings grouped together.  You can enter them all to wander round at will.  Amazing considering some of the antiques just sitting there.  I like the hospital building whilst the Stage Coach Inn impresses Steve.  After lunch we have a snooze in the motorhome the move off once the rain has stopped.  Arrive at the Wal Mart to find our Canadian friends Kevin & Ruth waiting for us.  It’s great to see them again and we have lots of catching up to do and lots more planning.  Decide that we will let the motorhome insurance situation dictate whether we proceed with our plan to try and drive to Panama or not.  They join us for a meal in our motorhome whilst we catch up on each other’s news.  It’s a stormy night with lots of rain, thunder and lightening. 

HARLINGEN WAL MART

FRIDAY 14 NOVEMBER – In Brownsville we visit Sanborns who are famous for their Mexican insurance policies.  They told me on line they could offer cover for Central America but only sent us the prices for cars.  They can offer us full cover for 4 or the 7 Central American countries but she can’t confirm the premium until we apply but says it will be more than for a car and that is $1800 for 3 months.  The decision is made and we buy their Mexican insurance for 6 months, $419 (£270) and receive lots of complementary road logbooks.  With no time pressure anymore we head out to Boca Chica beach.  On the approach road we see lots of flooding that must have been from the storm yesterday and last night.  As the ocean comes into view we see the road completely flooded and grind to a halt.  Steve & Kevin walk through the water and eventually return to say we can just about get onto a small entrance area to the beach without getting bogged.  It’s hard to tell where the high tide mark is as the beach is so wet but the Border Patrol vehicle reckons we are above it.  Kevin backs in up the track behind us and we will monitor the water up until the 5.30pm high tide.  Ignoring the wetness the beach is much like North Padre Island.  It’s a lovely day and we spend the afternoon sat out.  Steve goes for a wander and returns with Coin.  Amazingly he is from Queensbury just a few miles from where we lived but over here for 6 weeks to help with a wildlife refuge project.  I brew him a proper cup of tea and substitute cinnamon cake for parkin.  He’s here today with friends to do some bird spotting and then watch the full moon rise over the ocean.   Join Kevin & Ruth for a meal in Sherman.  The moonrise is pretty impressive and begins as a huge pink ball that turns white as it rises.  Enjoy our first game of euchre together, the first of very many no doubt.  Return home around 10.30pm. 

BROWNSVILLE AREA, BOCA CHICA BEACH

SATURDAY 15 NOVEMBER – We are disturbed by youths in a couple of vehicles attempting to do doughnuts in the sand accompanied by loud bass boom boom music.  We’ve not been asleep long after they leave before the motorhome shaking wakes us.  It is really windy outside and continues to get worse with sand blasting away at us.  With 2-hours to high tide there is also the concern that the onshore wind is going to bring the sea up much higher.  Steve goes out and uses the headlights to find and walk back on the beach road.  He says it is less windy there and we should move.  Manhandling the windbreaks and groundsheet is very difficult and I think we end up with half the beach sand in the motorhome.  Steve tells Kevin & Ruth we are pulling forward and they follow.  In our “sheltered spot” the van is only swaying a little and we get a bit of sleep.  By the time we get up we are rocking as much as we were in the open last night.  Steve walks back to the beach to retrieve our doormat and says it is terrible.  Return to Brownsville with the intention of doing all the last minute things needed before Mexico.  This also seems to be doomed as Kevin & Ruth can’t find anywhere selling some dog medication they need for Whiskey.  All the propane dealers are shut or we can’t find them.  The upshot is that it takes us until 5pm to do a bit of grocery shopping, fill up with really cheap gas at $1.69 (£1.10) gallon and get the laundry done.  At times we think we have inadvertently crossed into Mexico as almost everyone looks Mexican and speaks Spanish, half the products in the grocery stores are Mexican and many road surfaces potholed or have road works.  We are all exhausted after our sleepless night so our final Wal Mart, even though it is by the main road, will have to do.  We are in bed by 8.30pm and asleep soon after. BROWNSVILLE, WAL MART

WEDNESDAY 15 OCTOBER – To avoid traffic Wayne works flexi time and leaves early in the morning.  Being self-employed and “not a morning person” Sylvia heads in later leaving us home alone.  We finish working on Harry to enable us to do a photo shoot to put on the Internet to help when we sell it.  In the afternoon we get more heavy rain but at least it is still warm.  After our evening meal we finish of the Mexican Train game, which I am lucky to win.

BROOKSHIRE 4

THURSDAY 16 OCTOBER – It’s a dull and drizzly morning, much like England except that it isn’t cold at all.  Spend the day on the Internet making a number of purchases to be sent to our host in San Antonio.  In the evening I cook a Chinese stir-fry.  I join Wayne in the hot tub whilst Steve watches TV and Sylvia catches up on some work.

BROOKSHIRE 5

FRIDAY 17 OCTOBER – No drizzle but another dull morning.  Sylvia stays home working in her office, if she doesn’t have patients to see she doesn’t need to go into her main office.  She recently had to relocate office when her other one suffered storm damage and only last week was in a car crash so she has lots of paperwork to do.  I cook up a huge curry to take to the party tomorrow.   Join Sylvia on an afternoon shopping trip then return to pick up the lads for an evening meal out.  Sylvia has been told that both her insurance claims are to be paid out soon and wants to treat us.  End up at the Red Lobster where we get some good seafood meals.  Once we get back I set about making Steve and I some party outfits out of garbage bags and end up quite pleased with the result.

BROOKSHIRE 6

SATURDAY 18 OCTOBER – Sylvia does most of the party organisation and keeps props and decorations in her huge attic.  We load a lot of it into the motorhome then head off in front of them.  Weimer is about 1 hour away and we rendezvous at the motel where they are going to stay overnight – they turned down an invite to stay in the motorhome as they both snore a lot!  Out at Franz’s farm the barn needs a good sweeping and during this Steve comes across a snake wrapped up in a carpet he is unrolling.  Steve performs his “jumping out of the way” snake dance then someone else helps him to kill it, as it is a dangerous rattler.  Once this is all done I join them to help put out some of the decorations.  People begin arriving from around 4pm and bearing in mind this is a Healthy Hides of Houston naturist gathering names have been changed to protect the guilty!  Once everyone has had a chat we begin on the variety of food dishes and I am pleasantly surprised to see a number of people trying my curry.  The fancy dress competition follows – Garry has cards stuck on his chest and casino chips made into a G String so his character is Texas Hold Em (wishful thinking).  His wife Marjorie has a mousetrap hung on a necklace and she is the “booby trap”.  Lila is a witch, Jenny a sailor, Mickey has a plant painted on his back with the flowerpot on his bottom, Tim has a ripped up shirt but I didn’t catch the name of his character.  Darren is the elephant man with a fat suit up top and a pair of tights with one leg filled with toilet roll tubes and dangling, well you can guess where.  His wife Caroline is a naughty nurse whilst Sharon comes as “I don’t do mornings” in a bathrobe with rags in her hair and an eye mask.  Vince and his wife are excellent as the blues brothers, Bob is the deer hunter and his wife is in Egyptian belly dancing outfit.  Jimmy is a hoot as he is an elderly guy who had a motorbike accident recently and is in a wheelchair with his foot in plaster so he wears his crash helmet and poses as Evil Knevil!  Sylvia looks great as “Little Red Riding Hood” whilst I muddle through as Glen of the Garbo and Steve is just a scary character.  Silvia has enlisted my help in organising games so we play the potato croquet game that I learnt on the Nile Cruise and have a good laugh.  Follow this up with a few dancing games then its time for dessert after which a few people leave whilst others sit around chatting.  A great party with lots of interesting characters.  As usual a small hard-core group are left to clear up but we are lucky in only having a short walk home.

WEIMER

SUNDAY 19 OCTOBER – A small group return to finish packing things up and I cook up the left over ham and make scrambled eggs to go with it.  With breakfast over it’s time to take our leave after a super week in Wayne & Sylvia’s company.  Heading towards Austin the landscape changes to rolling hills, and the wheat fields give way to hills with trees.  A Globalfreeloaders host has put us in touch with a friend who has parking outside her office.  Lynn’s parents visit in their motorhome and she has set it up with water and electricity as well.  On the southern edge of the river within walking distance of the city it would be perfect, were it not for the railway track just a few feet away.  I’ve made contact with a couple from the Hill Country Nudist group and Anne & John come over in the afternoon to pick us up for a ride out.  Anne is Scottish but lived in London for many years then came to America and eventually to Austin where she met her husband John.  We have loads in common, Anne is a fellow traveller and John has lived abroad, so it is non-stop chat as we drive us out to Lake Travis.  Hippie Hollow is the only official naturist beach in Texas and from the car park an excellent paved path takes us along the edge of the lake high above the water.  In fact the water level is so low at the moment you can see lots of islands appearing whereas there have been times in the past when the path has been flooded.  It’s a beautiful spot with lots of inlets and plenty of flattish large ledges on the rocks below where you can sunbathe.  Settle down to relax and chat.  It’s a bit of a scramble down to the water but once there it’s a pleasure to swim in the lake.  We walk to the end of the main path and see many areas where boats are anchored by the shore.  It reminds us of Croatia and is exceptionally pretty.  Many hours later it’s is time to leave and Anne has invited us back for a meal so we can continue our chats.  It was Anne who suggested our detour to Austin because of the music and we make arrangements to meet up tomorrow night to check it out.   

AUSTIN

MONDAY 20 OCTOBER – Well I counted 5 trains and Steve only heard 2 and I’m not sure they were the same ones so it was a pretty noisy night but I did manage a couple of good stretches of sleep.  Set off walking towards the city and find a pedestrian bridge over the river then a nice walking track beside the river on the north bank.  The bats that spend summer under the Congress Bridge have left and there is no sign of them at all.  Up on the main drag we go inside the 1884 Driskill Hotel and find it really impressive.  Wander round some other streets and see a skyscraper with a kind of church style building at the top level but no tourist info about it.  A passer by stops and tells us the top floor is where President Johnson’s wife “Lady Bird” lived until she died just a few years ago.  The passer by is actually a tour guide on her day off and walks a few blocks with us giving us info and suggestion her top 5 attractions, of which we had planned to do 3 anyway.  Following a part of a walking tour we pass some interesting mansions and then see one of the “moonlight towers”.  Back in 1895 these were the first street lights in Austin and from their 165’ towers 6 arc lamps would cover a radius of 3000’.   The impressive domed State Capitol is slightly taller than the one in Washington because of the statue on top.  We take the free-guided tour to admire the interior and are amazed when we end up in the basement that leads onto a completely new wing.  The café is open to the public and makes a suitable lunch stop.  The Bob Bullock State History Museum, $6 (£3.60) is excellent as the story of Texas is portrayed over 3 floors going right back to when the Native Indians were about the only inhabitants.  Much of it is realistic setting with a mock Alamo area and lots of movie clips.  The story leads us through to modern day and the oil boom.  We ask about walking over to the LBJ library and museum and get various responses initially beginning with “you don’t have a car and want to walk there”?  Eventually learn we can walk through the university campus.  We fit in completely, not because we are so young but because for once everybody else is also walking!  Our stroll takes us past the “Longhorns” college football stadium and what a stadium it is.  It is being expanded but is already much bigger than any of the stadiums we have in England including something like Wembley and this is just for college games.  The LBJ museum and library houses memorabilia from Linden Johnson’s time as President, free admission.  It is based on his personal timeline linked with world events and extremely interesting.  A movie fills us in on his life and it seems he was doing rather well as President until the country went to war in Vietnam (now does this sound a bit familiar to you?).  On the top floor there is a replica Oval office and another floor houses lots of NASA exhibits, as it was LBJ that was initially challenged by Kennedy to get a man on the moon by the end of the 60’s.  I spot a nose cone of a jet named “Glamorous Glennis” and after posing by it I read up that it was the one that first broke the sound barrier – how appropriate!  We are enjoying it so much we get kicked out at 5pm closing time.  You can get a 24-hour local bus pass for $1.50 (90p) and with one connection the buses get us back home in about 45 minutes.  After a nibble and a quick change John & Anne pick us up.  We go back into the city and along the famous 6^th street but being a Monday night there is not a lot of activity but it’s still good to see.  Back on the south bank we end up at Barons where the car park is full and music can be heard.  A $5 (£2.95) cover charge applies and we soon settle into a booth with our drinks.  Its country style music but the band have written many of their own songs with ballads about Mexico.  It’s pleasant enough but no one is dancing and Anne & John have work tomorrow so after an hour or so we call it a day.

AUSTIN 2

TUESDAY 21 OCTOBER – Got up to 8 last night with my train count and worse still many of them came to a halt and then started off again a bit later.  Definitely can’t handle another night here.  Walk over to the Zilker City Park and begin at the Botanical Gardens.  There’s a butterfly section that leads into an area with some prehistoric animal figures then through the rose garden into the Oriental Garden.  It’s all rather pleasant but not outstanding.  Walking back across the park we reach the famous Barton Springs pool.  It’s a natural spring fed pool and they have damned the stream to create a 975’ long swimming pool,  $3 (£1.80) admission, with a constant 68F temperature.  Claire would love doing her long distance training here.  We meet up with Globalfreeloaders host Karen who put is in touch with Lynn where we are parked up.  Unfortunately she is really busy so can’t stay chatting for long.  I attempt to do some serious swimming but the cool water combined with the plants and fish make me uncomfortable.  There’s an exhibit room behind the changing rooms that does a great job of explaining how springs evolved over the history of time and how this one works.  Return for lunch then head south.  We are amazed to pick up the cheapest gas since June 2007 at just $2.37 a gallon, with the present exchange rate that equates to 36p a litre.  San Marcos visitor centre is marginally better than useless in that they do have some brochures from which we can gather information.  It seems that camping areas we wanted to visit around Canyon Lake are closed for the season so we retire to Wal Mart to re plan.  I’m amazed to see a queue at the gun department with dozens of rifles in the glass cabinet.  Hunting season starts on 1^st November and Wal Mart in the next town are not allowed to sell guns due to a county by law so obviously people are coming here.  All they need to complete a purchase is a piece of paper to say they have had a background check done.  It’s a fairly quiet parking spot but the trains are still haunting us as we hear them tooting in the distance even if we can’t hear the trains themselves.  Steve makes a few phone calls and finds that what bit of information the visitor centre lead us to is duff and some of the campgrounds are still open.  Caesars Pizza are doing a customer appreciation special of $3.99 (£2.40) for a large pizza, too good to resist. 

SAN MARCOS, WAL MART

WEDNESDAY 22 OCTOBER – Head off on the “Devils Backbone” road with fine views of the countryside. Ignore Purgatory road in order to take in the more scenic part of the road before turning off to Canyon Lake.  North Park is one of many COE (Corps of Engineers) lakeside campgrounds.  The guy at the kiosk tries to tell us we won’t want to stay here and would be better with all the other RV’s at Potters Creek Park with electric and an $18 price tag.  Assure him we would rather be here in the quiet rustic surroundings at $8 (£4.80).  We are happier still when we find that the National Parks pass gives us half price and he doesn’t notice that is out of date!  With all the sites to choose from we take and end one directly above the beautiful lake.  The water is low so we have a clamber about 15’ down over rocks to get into the water but it’s a pleasant temperature and nice and clean.  There’s a picnic table with canopy so we sit out for lunch just enjoying the view.   We can even get a wi-fi signal for a few miles away across the lake using our Hawking dish so we are even happier bunnies when Steve gets his football results!  Late afternoon a real storm whips up and we only just manage to get the awning away safely.

CANYON LAKE 1, NORTH PARK

THURSDAY 23 OCTOBER – A cool change has come through with the winds and for the first time in months I dig out my ¾ trousers and wear and T-shirt and jumper.  There’s a very pleasant walk out over the dam giving us views in both directions.  By the time we get back it has warmed up and in fact becomes really hot in the afternoon.  The lake is super for swimming in and the water clear enough for us to bring buckets back for washing.

CANYON LAKE 2, NORTH PARK

FRIDAY 24 OCTOBER – My goodness what a shock to the system, the night temperature drops to 40F and I have to get up to find another cover to put on the bed.  Just not used to this so linger in bed until 9am when it is just about warm enough to get up!  Walk the opposite way around the lakeshore to the private marina and then inadvertently into the Army one.  There are security fences everywhere except along the beach so I guess they don’t expect anyone to actually walk there!  Anyway they allow us to buy a drink and we make our way back to camp along the main road.  By lunchtime lots of other campers are arriving and boats are zipping around on the lake.  It’s a glorious day so we sit on our terrace enjoying a pasta meal washed down with lots of nice wine.  Mums now home and I chat on the phone and find she is walking around with just sticks for assistance but still very sore.  The campground gets busier with a number of tents setting up and a large motorhome down near us.  Mike & Patti leave just 4 miles from here up in the hills but like to come down to the Lake at weekends to enjoy the view and give Mike a chance to fish.  Sit out playing Yahtzee in the afternoon.  We get a lovely sunset over the lake to round off a perfect day.

CANYON LAKE 3, NORTH PARK

SATURDAY 25 OCTOBER – Back to the warmer nights.  The lake is dotted with small yachts when we get up and they seem to have races throughout the day.  Instead of going for a walk I do a bit of swimming.  Usual evening of cards and a bit of TV viewing.

CANYON LAKE 4, NORTH PARK

SUNDAY 26 OCTOBER – Mike comes over and says he is leaving this morning and would we like to follow him and park up at his home.  It’s a bit of a cloudy morning so we agree and follow him home.  He lives on aptly names Skyline road with views over the valley.  We have a nice parking spot by the shed with electricity and water.  Patti suffers with ill health and sits around most of the time watching TV but Mile obviously wants to socialise with us and makes a great host.  He cooks his evening meal on the BBQ and invites us to add our joint of pork.  He throws on a couple of enormous potatoes for us then serves it to us on the terrace.  Mike tries to stick to a special diet so cooks his own food and a separate meal for Patti but keeps popping back to sit with us and chat.

SATTLER

MONDAY 27 OCTOBER – Mike says to stay as long as we want and we can certainly use a day on electric to do more travel research on the Internet.  Take an afternoon stroll up the hill but too many trees obscure the views.    In the evening he pops down for a chat and brings some whole roasted garlic and smoked peanuts, he’s a bit of a chef on the quiet and does a great job.  He tells us about a TV programme where a chef  “Curtis Stone” surprises people in the supermarket and offers to take them home and cook a meal using the goods in their trolley, must look out for it.

SATTLER 2

TUESDAY 28 OCTOBER – Another cold night and we could do to be heading south a bit quicker but want to hang on for our Canadian friends to catch up with us.  Mike tells us the River Road to New Braunfels is scenic and it certainly is as it crosses the Guadalupe River 4 times.  There are numerous campgrounds on the banks but all are closed for the season.  Gruene began as a German settlement of farmers and many of the original buildings still remain.  It has a very attractive main street with lots of artisans and one of the oldest dance halls in Texas, often used in movies.  In New Braunfels we make a lunch stop in Landa Park then take a walk up to Comal Springs.  The biggest springs in Texas pump water into the Comal River, the shortest river in America at 2 ½ miles long.  Within the park is an old oak tree planted by original settlers in 1700 but it needs a lot of support to stop it collapsing onto the ground as it is now growing out at about 45 degree angle.  On the edge of the park they are setting up for the big “Wurstfest” this weekend and it looks like it’s going to be a big event with lots of halls and roped off areas.  Try to get to the centre of town but the turning we take leads us over a narrow bridge then towards a railway bridge with only 11’5” headroom and we are 12’.  Stop in our tracks but trying to get the cars to back up or wait for us to manoeuvre is impossible. In the end Steve waits for a gap in the on coming traffic then pulls into that lane to reverse beside all the cars that were backed up behind us.  One guy calls out that we are stupid idiots but doesn’t linger long enough for us to explain that there were no warning signs from the direction that we came.  Find a better road into the centre then out to where we are planning on parking at Couchsurfer Abel’s office.  It’s a similar location to our spot in Austin, right at the side of the railway but we reckon we can cope with anything for 1 night.  After making introductions Abel says he needs to chop a few branches off the trees and our arrival spurs him into action.  Once in place we are amazed at just how loud the train is and the fact that it toots its horn continuously.  All the road crossings have barriers across so we cannot understand the need for the horn at all.  Abel joins us for supper and tells us about some suspicious things that happened at the time of 9/11 www.911truth.org sounds like an interesting site that contradicts many of the official versions of events.  Abel is off to Guatemala next month for a couple of weeks so we are hoping he will be able to get back to us with some tips.

NEW BRAUNFELS   

WEDNESDAY 29 OCTOBER – We are lucky in that there are only a couple of trains in the early hours of the morning so manage a reasonable nights sleep.  It’s another cold night and morning and I end up putting the central heating on to entice us out of bed.  Drive to the centre of town and park up to walk around.  A German Prince from Braunfels founded this part of the city and much of the architecture retains the German influence.  Murals on the side of buildings tell the history of the first settlers.  The courthouse is impressive complete with bell tower.  A visit to the German bakery is a treat except the black forest cake can only be bought as a whole and is a huge one at $15.  Round of our visit in the hardware store that retains the old pulley system for transaction, sliding ladders and glass display cabinets.   Pick up the I35 heading to San Antonio, the 6^th largest city in America.  In our opinion the traffic is terrible even though we have missed rush hour.  Our Couchsurfing hosts live in the northwestern suburb of Balcones Heights and we easily find their home and park on the second driveway.  At the end of the street there are shops within walking distance and a frequent bus service to the city centre.  Narlie pops back mid afternoon to introduce herself and give us our mail.  Frank gets home around 4pm; he’s a lab technician but has just learnt that due to cutbacks they will not be renewing his contract.  Frank has been in the military and spent lots of time abroad but isn’t travelling this moment so this is why they have joined Couchsurfers.  When Narlie gets home we find out she had put a rack of ribs in the oven earlier and invites us to join them.  She comes from the Philippines but is very happy living here.  They both go out early in the morning so around 10pm we retire to the motorhome.

SAN ANTONIO, BALCONES HEIGHTS

THURSDAY 30 OCTOBER – Catch the bus from the end of the road. The driver can’t sell us the $3.75 day-tripper pass but says we can ride for free and buy one in the city later.  Just over ½ hour later we hop off and walk down Houston Street pausing to admire the many attractive buildings.  Arrive in the centre of the city at “The Alamo” a stunning location with the historic park being surrounded by impressive high-rise buildings.  It’s free to go around and we begin with the movie about the battle.  It’s a really nice area with quite a few of the old buildings remaining.  Outside the long barracks is a modern cenotaph depicting heroes from the siege.  Along side Alamo Plaza a row of buildings house all manner of modern attractions and we buy a 3-attraction ticket for $26.95 (£15).  Begin in the Guinness World Records Museum with lots of interactive exhibits.  Next we do the 3D Tomb Raiders ride that is much like the Toy Story ride at Disney, in fact probably not as good.  Wind up on Ripley’s Haunted Adventure.  You ascend in a 45-degree lift to the upper floor of a building to be greeted by a spooky person.  At this point we are the only people in the attraction (as we were at all the other places) so he leads us into the haunted chamber to tell us we must now make our way through the various rooms to get out of the building.  He tells us things will come at us but nothing will touch us and then sends us on our way.  A combination of animatronics, real live actors and special effects attempt to scare us as we make our way through the corridors.  It’s actually all rather tame and we end up laughing rather than being scared.  So our one off splurge on attractions turns out to be a bit of a waste of money.  Set out to hit the real attractions of the city.  The main channel of the river was straightened out but the bend retained to form a kind of canal that runs just below street level.  It all sounds rather strange but when we find the steps down to it this little oasis right in the city centre enchants us.  You can walk along both banks of the river with dozens of restaurants, all busy at lunchtime.  Riverboats make the circular trip but we opt to walk it and stop for our sandwiches on a park bench part way round.  Having completed the circuit we wander through the old area of Villita where the traditional adobe house now house craft shops.  At the head of the river bend another channel leads out in a T shape to the river centre mall at one end and the Convention Centre at the other.  Through the Convention Centre we emerge into Hemisfair Park where lots of old buildings were relocated for a world expo.  A few blocks further and we are in the King William Historic District with street after street of magnificent and unusual architectural gems of houses mainly from the late 1800’s.  The area walking tour leaflet describes many of the features and gives a history of the original owners then leads us back to the river, which we follow back to the bus stop.  Having walked all the areas we wanted to see we just pay the single $1 (60p) fare to get us home by around 4pm.  So overall we are very impressed with our first look at San Antonio but decidedly footsore after our big trek.  Narlie seems to be coming down with a cold and doesn’t feel too good after work so we stay in the motorhome.  Next door the Community Centre is a hive of activity with work going on inside until 2am. 

SAN ANTONIO 2, BALCONES HEIGHTS

FRIDAY 31 OCTOBER – Notice that the windows and door of the Community Centre are blacked out so suspect they were preparing the room for a Halloween party tonight.  Take a walk up to the nearby Crossroads Mall but it looks like it is dying fast.  Apparently planners are forever creating bigger and better malls then people no longer visit the old ones.  In the afternoon Frank says he would like to take us out to a special place he knows and asks if there is anything else we want to do.  Yesterday we saw a carpet remnant place nearby so he takes us there and for $15 (£9) we get a nice piece of shag pile for the motorhome.  The lino is great in the summer or at the beach but carpet is much cosier in the winter.  Brackenridge is the location of the Japanese tea garden.  There is a quirky story attached as after Pearl Harbour they were forced to rename it a Chinese tea garden and had a Mexican create a wooden looking concrete entrance in the shape of a Chinese entrance gate.  Today it has reverted to being the Japanese sunken garden and what a treasure it is.  There is a fantastic huge stone pagoda with lots of fancy arches overlooking the sunken garden and pool.  Numerous paths and bridges lead you around the gardens and there is even a waterfall.  On the way back Frank calls in to Barnes & Noble bookstores where we manage to buy the Central America map that we need.  In the evening Frank & Narlie are going to a party that starts at 10pm so try to fit in a snooze before hand.  The disco begins next to us but it is nice music and we are happy to watch the kids having fun there whilst others roam the streets treat or treating.  Couchsurfer Mary was unable to offer us motorhome parking but wants to take us out to her favourite restaurant.  La Fogata is a fantastic Tex Mex restaurant and looks enchanting from outside with fairly lights everywhere.  When we enter through some old Mexican wooden doors we hear the mariachi band playing.  Mary is excellent company and recommends certain items on the menu.  The food is excellent as are their famous margaritas.  We are having such a good time that Mary comes back to the motorhome and stays chatting until after midnight. SAN ANTONIO 3, BALCONES HEIGHTS

200810

WEDNESDAY 1 OCTOBER 2008 – We had a bit of a disturbed night.  It seems we were on the car park used by the night fishermen and they all drive noisy trucks.  Make an early start along the coast then over a big bridge across St Louis Bay.  Following the Beach Road we immediately see storm damage including huge sections of the road that area closed.  Remains of a water park include tube slides that terminate mid air or maybe that’s a new style ride to come!  It’s a beautiful area so we understand why people want to live here but judging by the number of damaged homes they sure are paying the price.  Silver Slipper casino has a stunning location at the end of a headland surrounded by lovely beaches.  We get $10 each play credit; free T-shirts and half price buffet vouchers.  Steve has a really good session on the slots winning over $90 giving us a profit of over $100.  The lunch buffet at $6.99 (£3.75) and 2 for 1 is outstanding value and we make real pigs of ourselves.  Machines with soft drinks and coffee are around so having persuaded the bar man to put the Liverpool match on TV Steve settles in for the afternoon.  Move to the far side car park for the night.

WAVELAND, SILVER SLIPPER CAR PARK

THURSDAY 2 OCTOBER – At the junction with the I10 there is a huge Mississippi welcome centre and the NASA visitor centre.  A free shuttle takes you for a tour of the John C Stennis Space Centre where they test the space rockets.  We go round a small part of the base and see the huge test towers then drop us at a visitor centre.  Roaming around there are lots of things to try out including a shuttle landing which we both manage to crash!  The thermal imaging camera is also fun.  The freeway takes us in to LOUISIANNA where we head to New Orleans on an impressive bridge over Lake Pontchartrain.  Our “Couchsurfing” has no parking near her home but has arranged parking at her Mums.  Her Dad Carlos greets us and soon has us parked up then settled in the house having a drink.  He phones Maria’s partner Skip who has just finished teaching at school and heads over to pick us up.  Maria’s Mum Carol arrives home and I chat to her until Skip arrives.  It’s quite strange for us having to pack a bag and we don’t know how long for so that confuses the issue.  Skip and Maria live in the lovely historical area of Algiers.  As well as being well travelled Skip is in to property renovation so we have lots to chat about.  This is one of the oldest residential areas of New Orleans and built on older ground so they usually escape most of the storm damage.  They have 2 dogs, Toller and Izzy and a cat called Kitty.  Maria is doing a nursing course at college and is tired when she arrives back late.  After a quick introduction we settle onto the airbed in the lounge.  

NEW ORLEANS 1, ALGIERS

FRIDAY 3 OCTOBER – Maria is free late morning and along with her college friend Elizabeth they escort us over to the city.  It’s a short walk to catch the free ferry across the Mississippi River to the French Quarter.  Stop at the famous Café du Monde for a drink and some “beignets”, a kind of flat doughnut that is piled high with icing sugar.  The best way to eat it is to shake of as much of it as possible then lean to one side so the rest of the icing sugar falls on the floor.  Next we check out the French Market, originally fruit and vegetables but now crafts.  Maria & Elizabeth must get back but we have an AAA walking tour to follow.  The architecture is stunning and looks really beautiful with the lacy ironwork enhanced with flowers.  Royal Street seems to have the most impressive balconies but Bourbon Street is the liveliest.  We can only imagine what it is like at night as we visit during lunchtime and already people are wandering through the streets drinking cocktails and drifting in and out of the bars where loud music is playing.  Make a late lunch stop at the famous “Johnny’s Po-Boys” where we share a roast beef sandwich with garlic gravy and it is delicious.  Return to the main square to admire the surrounding buildings before walking back along the riverbank.  The French Quarter has a really nice feel to it, nothing like anywhere else we have been in America and we can see the attraction.  Return to Maria & Skips for a quick shower and rest.  They suggest going out for a meal so we hop in the car to go back over the river to Cunningham’s Cheesecake on Charles Avenue.  The offer an amazing selection of cheesecake desserts so I have to chose my main course carefully to be sure to have enough room.  I have another beef po-boy and this one is even better as it comes with the gravy to dip the sandwich in.  

NEW ORLEANS 2, ALGIERS

SATURDAY 4 OCTOBER – Our departure is delayed when I get a text from Claire asking me to call urgently.  Turns out Mum had a fall yesterday and is now in hospital having an operation to repair her broken hip.  I speak to Netty and also the hospital and find she has come through the operation well and is now resting.  Return to the city and catch the streetcar, $1.25 (75p) out along Charles Avenue where there are some magnificent mansions from the 1800’s.  The streetcar itself is unique in being the oldest one in continuous use.  It’s voting day today and at all the road junctions there are literally dozens of boards featuring the nominees and people waving placards, I count over 100 at one stop alone.  Get off the tram to walk around the Garden District area where we see even more impressive mansions in many different designs.  Most of the homes are very deep, close together and too near the road for a driveway.  Presumably built before cars were around because there are rows of horse hitching posts at the end of each road.  Lafayette cemetery is interesting with above ground tombs used by whole families.  When someone dies the front seal is broken and the bones raked out.  These are then put back in with the new corpse on top.  Back walking the streets we keep seeing rows of shallow drums in the ground and investigate.  They are in ground rubbish bins but we don’t delve deep enough to see whether they are bottomless or have to be emptied from the top!  Next we take a tram out to City Park to view the free sculpture garden.  It’s very interesting and even has a Henry Moore.  There’s a stadium in the park and obviously a game going on.    Leading up to the stadium is a huge area set up for tail gating parties almost on a commercial basis.  We see one with beer taps and try to buy a beer but it is a private tent and he won’t sell us one but gives us them for free then throws in some tickets for the football game.  It’s the local college team Tulane playing against the army and we catch the second two quarters to see the college team slaughtered.  In the evening we walk out in the Algiers area with Skip & Maria for dinner at the bar/restaurant near the ferry terminal.  They both have lots to do tomorrow so Skip takes us back to the motorhome for the night.  Once again the Couchsurfing system has worked brilliantly for us and now we have more new friends.

NEW ORLEANS 3, CAROL & CARLOS’S

SUNDAY 5 OCTOBER – Manage to speak to Mum in hospital and she is very sore but sounds to have come through the hip replacement operation well.  Carol has invited us in for breakfast and cooks up delicious bacon, eggs, cheesy grits and biscuits.  They taste far nicer than the commercial versions we have had before.  In their garden they have a voting poster showing the picture of a dog and saying Willie Bean for mayor.  It’s their daughters dog that ran for mayor in the town of Fairhope and got more votes than many of the other candidates – now doesn’t that tell you something!    www.williebeanformayor.com Carlos helps with a few travel tips and by late morning we are ready to move on.  Another example of the excellent southern hospitality.  We pick up the river road but can’t actually see the water because of the levy.  Along this route there are lots of cane fields and old plantations.  We turn off to look at a few but don’t want to pay $15 (£8.50) to go inside.  Laura is a very attractive old painted home but Oak Alley has to have the prettiest approach lined with oak trees.  This area has obviously suffered badly in the recent storms as many homes have blue tarpaulin on the roofs and trees have fallen all over.  Once we have driven past the best of the plantations its still early afternoon so we have a change of plan and head onwards to Baton Rouge.  As soon as we cross the Mississippi River we are impressed as we make our way along the riverside.  We expect places to be quieter on Sundays but here there is almost no traffic so it is very easy navigating.  The State Capitol is in a fantastic art deco tower building and even more impressive inside.  We ride up to the 27^th floor for great views over the river, the city and also the massive oil refineries.  These deal with the largest volume anywhere in Northern America.  Check out the statues, murals and other points of interest on the ground floor.  Walk through the gardens past the tomb of state governor Huey Long who was buried here after being assassinated in the building.  Huey Long was also responsible for building the Governors Mansion as a replica of the White House so that he would know his way around then he got there!  Notice a sign saying the museums are free on the 1^st Sunday of the month from 1-5pm.  It’s almost 4pm but we manage to race through the art museum then in to the original State Capital in a castle style building with fantastic spiral staircase topped with a pretty glass roof.  Hastening through that we make the planetarium just before closing.  Hollywood Casino is at the end of the road and a handy overnight parking spot. 

BATON ROUGE, HOLLYWOOD CASINO

MONDAY 6 OCTOBER – Heading to Lafayette we cross an enormous swamp at Henderson but that’s about the only point of interest en route.  We want to visit the Acadia Cultural Centre but before going in we pop in to the Mardi Gras factory opposite where they make the floats.  It’s really interesting to see the works in progress and realise that this factory also does work for the Mexican and Spanish Mardi Gras.  In the proper museum we study the displays then enjoy a movie about how the people were banished from Nova Scotia to finally end up here.  Next is followed by an even more interesting one about the Atchafalaya swamp and this prompts us to consider doing a swamp tour.  Unfortunately after the storms the water level is extremely high and tours not on track.  With little choice we take the I10 but it is most unpleasant and made worse as the highway is concrete slabs that are noisy as you bounce over them.  Lake Charles is really nice with a huge lake in the centre of town and lots of parking. There is a 911 memorial to 3 local people who died.  2 beams from the World Trade Centre were transported here as the centrepiece and it’s amazing to see how buckled and twisted they area.  The “Auberge du Lac” is a very posh casino with no membership freebies but at least they let us stay on the parking lot for free.

LAKE CHARLES, AUBERGE DU LAC

TUESDAY 7 OCTOBER – There is a lovely sandy beach on the banks of Lake Charles but the day starts with the threat of a big storm.  On the freeway we really hit it and have to crawl along in order to see.  At Vinton you can free camp at Delta Downs casino.  Unusually this is also a racetrack so situated in the country.  Once the rain stops we check out their sign up offers but just come away with free T-shirts – at least these are red and a change from our white collection.  There is no lunch buffet on Monday or Tuesday so we eat in the van and have a relaxing planning day.  We can tell we are in the country as a skunk waddles along the edge of the race track then puts it’s tail up when Steve goes close to take a photo!  With free wi-fi I can use Skype to contact Mum via the Internet.  She has been up and about but finds it very painful.  

VINTON, DELTA DOWNS CASINO

WEDNESDAY 8 OCTOBER – We are woken to the sound of horses galloping past, seems they are out for an early morning training session on the course and we have a grandstand view by the starting post.  Hitting the road we are soon in TEXAS and stop at the excellent visitor centre to gather state info.  The few tourist attractions in the town of Orange are still closed after the storms.  Travelling through Bridge City we see the worst damage to date.  They took the brunt of hurricane Ike as it came ashore and flooded the area.  Trees are down everywhere and by the roadside we see the ruined stuff people have dragged out of their homes awaiting refuse collection.  I stop to shop at the recently re opened Wal*Mart and am stunned when I enter the store.  The floor is now bare concrete but what hits me most is the type of things they are selling.  Wellington boots are piled high, bed mattresses and other necessary replacement items abound whilst fresh food is non-existent.  Two impressive bridges lead us to Port Arthur that survived somewhat better due to a good levy bank.  For some reason religious symbols abound here and we begin at the Shrine of our Lady of Guadalupe.  A 27’ bronze statue sits on top of rocks brought from Mount Tepayac in Mexico where the Virgin Mary appeared to Juan Diego.  Queen of Peace Shrine down the road is a beautiful oriental garden built by Queen of Vietnamese Martyrs Catholics.  As we are crossing the road to it a Police car pulls over.  The officer is surprised to see tourists here and wants to know if we are enjoying our visit.  He lived in England for many years so lingers chatting.  He tells us it is unsafe to stay in this area overnight as we are on the edge of gang territory but it is OK in the day.  The seafront is not as we imagined as you can see nothing but the levy bank and the only interest on Lakeshore Drive is a few nice houses.  The Buddhist temple is closed due to storm damage but completes the trio of religious sites.  Over on Pleasure Island there are no beaches and the coast road is closed so we are done with Port Arthur.  Highway 73 is a shock to the system.  Whilst the road has been cleared of debris it is still piled at the sides and gives us a further insight into how bad things were.  There are huge mounds of stuff that looks like mud covered with hay and these are entwined with debris including tin roofs, doors, windows and even a fridge whilst other items are stuck up in trees.  This goes on for miles and we cannot imagine what the coastal road is like as we are now a good 10 miles inland.  The small town of Anahuac is also in the process of recovery.  You can camp at the county parks and we call in to the Court House to get a permit.  I am told that Fort Anahuac Park is full of tent campers from a religious group who are there to help.  They suggest we try White Memorial Park back near the freeway as it will be much quieter.  It’s a large and pleasant wooded park leading down to Turtle Bayou but certainly not a quiet spot.  Along with the noise of the motorway traffic we hear chain saws running as worked begin to remove the fallen trees.  Still it’s a free spot and we are biding our time to arrive in Houston for the weekend so we will take it.

ANAHUAC, WHITE MEMORIAL PARK

THURSDAY 9 OCTOBER – Manage a reasonable nights sleep.  Whilst the days are still hot we are noticing cooler evenings, down to 70F and even wake up to see dew on the grass – a first since we got back in July.  Spend a quiet day relaxing.

ANAHUAC 2, WHITE MEMORIAL PARK

FRIDAY 10 OCTOBER – For the first time since last November we see gas priced at under $3 (£1.85) a gallon, maybe this is partly because we are driving in an area where every large plot of land is taken up with massive refineries.  Unfortunately it is not any cheaper for us as the exchange rate has now dropped to $1.70 = £1.  San Jacinto memorial is the tallest obelisk in the world but both that and the Battleship Texas opposite are closed due to the storm.  In Houston we return to visit our host Tim.  Catch up on his news then join him for a visit to the YMCA where he is a member.  They have a great fitness centre and I can go free as his guest so get to put in 40 lengths in the outdoor swimming pool.  When Steve & Tim are waiting for me in the lounge area there is a TV showing staggering falls then leaps on the American stock market.  As Tim says things must be bad when even the lifeguards are talking about it!  Take lunch at the café where they provide healthy food, the turkey chilli at $2.99 (£1.85) a bowl is delicious.  Driving back he takes us through many of the housing areas with storm damage and we still see huge oak trees that have not been sawn up.  Many homes were lucky to have the trees fall away from them but others have had trees fall on both the front and the back.  I phone Mum who has been moved to Whitchurch hospital but she is still in a lot of pain and struggling to get the new hip moving.  It’s frustrating that we are so far away and I can’t nip back to visit and help but we had such a hard time getting back into America that I fear they would not let me return and that would leave Steve stranded here alone.  In the evening we sit in the house chatting whilst Tim cooks us pasta and pizza to go with the wine.

HOUSTON, TIMS

SATURDAY 11 OCTOBER – With good internet connection we do more travel planning and are now considering taking the motorhome into Belize and Guatemala so that opens up a whole new area of research.  Tim is out for dance lessons late afternoon and then to a party so we have made arrangements to meet the daughter and family of our Dutch friends Henk and Klara.  Ineke arrives to pick us up and take us to their apartment in Spring, about half an hour north.  Along with her husband Jos and daughters Mara, 11 and Jonna 8 they moved here 3 months ago.  They are also members of the hospitality clubs.  We go to a nearby Chinese buffet called “China Bear” and chat our way through the meal.  As usual there is an excellent choice of food but this one also includes things like crab legs and crayfish.  Also there is a huge shop attached to the restaurant selling some impressive Chinese ornaments at very reasonable prices.  Next they take us up to Woodlands Market Street where there is a European style village square.  We pick up drinks from Starbucks and sit around the square enjoying the evening.  Jos is working in a school here and Ineke works for a petroleum company but from home.  Both the girls have settled in really well at school in spite of having to learn English quickly.  After an enjoyable evening making friends Ineke drops us back home.

HOUSTON 2

SUNDAY 12 OCTOBER – After chatting to Tim we head west to Brookshire.  Wayne is president of Health Hides of Houston club and has invited us to visit.  They live in a newly developing area and designed their own home and created a private back garden where they can sunbathe au natural.  His wife Sylvia is also very friendly and they make us really welcome and invite us to stay in one of their spare bedrooms.  Their swimming pool is beautiful and has a long rock waterfall across the back making it sound like a babbling stream.  Find lots to chat about through the afternoon before joining them for an evening meal.  Looks like we are going to be here a few days so we all do our own thing in the evening.

BROOKSHIRE

MONDAY 13 0CT0BER- Sylvia runs her own Diabetic Management company and although it is Columbus Day holiday opts to go in to work to do a few things.  Wayne has quite a lot of holiday left this year so takes the day off.  In the morning we give Harry a bit of a sprucing up so we can take photos to put on the Internet later when we try to sell it.  At dinnertime we go in to Houston and pick up Sylvia to join us at Brothers pizza.  We’re all weary in the afternoon so just hang around. After a late dip in the pool there is a cool breeze so we jump in the hot tub.  It’s a great design with lots of different massage areas so we stay in for ages.  I prepare some potato slices and pork to BBQ for evening meal.  After eating we play a game of petanque on their new petanque court.

BROOKSHIRE 2

TUESDAY 14 OCTOBER – The dull start to the day deteriorates into a thunderstorm with rain.  Fortunately it is brighter in the afternoon and we can sit out by the pool.  Wayne has taken another days holidays so is even more pleased about that than us!  After a steak BBQ in the evening they teach us a new game of dominoes.  It is with a set that goes up to double 12 and called Mexican Train and great fun.

BROOKSHIRE 3

WEDNESDAY 15 OCTOBER – To avoid traffic Wayne works flexi time and leaves early in the morning.  Being self-employed and “not a morning person” Sylvia heads in later leaving us home alone.  We finish working on Harry to enable us to do a photo shoot to put on the Internet to help when we sell it.  In the afternoon we get more heavy rain but at least it is still warm.  After our evening meal we finish of the Mexican Train game, which I am lucky to win.

BROOKSHIRE 4

MONDAY 15 SEPTEMBER – Back to the springs for another relaxing day.  Around 2.30pm it begins raining so we take our cue and leave.  The next big town is Perry where we use the library for Internet.  Looks like we may have to travel slower than planned as pretty much all the coastline of Texas was wiped out by Ike and people are still stranded in cars.  Settle onto the Wal*Mart car park for the night.

PERRY WAL*MART

TUESDAY 16 SEPTEMBER – Unusually we wake to a humid cloudy drizzly day.  One of the big advantages of parking at Wal*Mart is that you get first pick of the reductions early in the morning!  We park in town using wi-fi until lunchtime.  Travelling through Sopchoppy we see our first gas station out of fuel – maybe a sign of things to come.  We have a map of Apalachicola National Forest but still have trouble finding the campground as the 399 has been changed to the 299 and other roads don’t exists as shown on the map.  Eventually we find the spot and it is well worth the hunt.  You can free camp for up to 14 days with new clean pit toilets, picnic tables, fireplaces, hunt hanging and carving table and boat ramp all available.  We make the short walk to the boat ramp for quick dips in the water, it’s a kind of rusty colour and not very clear.  Knowing alligators are in the area we are not keen to go far or to linger but it’s enough for cooling off. There’s no one else here so we are free to strip off and enjoy the afternoon sun.  Just one car arrives with a boat that goes out for an hour or so before they leave.

APALACHICOLA NATIONAL FOREST, WOOD LAKE

WEDNESDAY 17 SEPTEMBER – It was a really cool night, the first since we arrived in Florida back in April, well by cool I mean down to 70F!  Enjoy a relaxing day and again just one car comes down with a boat.  In the evening Steve makes a fire and cooks our toasted cheese sandwich on it.

WOOD LAKE 2

THURSDAY 18 SEPTEMBER – We get up late, as it is nice to linger in bed without being hot and sweaty.  Having bought some bleach I spend the morning scrubbing all the mould from our outdoor chairs and it works a treat.  A local arrives in a car and gets chatting to Steve over a beer.  He kindly points out a fresh water tap tucked away at the end of the campground so now we won’t even need to brave the lake for bathing.  Occasional spots of rain are insufficient to force us in during the afternoon.  A boat pulls up and shortly after a car and trailer arrive to drag it out.  Feeling really settled here as it is so peaceful and we have as much sun or shade, as we want.

WOOD LAKE 3

FRIDAY 19 SEPTEMBER – Steve’s 54^th birthday and we go for a morning stroll with the phone to try and get reception in case he has texts messages but no signal.  More time for relaxing, in fact I am reading a book a day at the moment so obviously too much time on our hands.  We have our main meal and mid day and I cook us a nice steak followed by apple pie and custard and rounded off with fresh coffee, cheese and grapes – gee it’s a tough life!  We sit out late in the evening playing cards, as it is such a pleasant temperature.

WOOD LAKE 4

SATURDAY 20 SEPTEMBER – We wake up early when a car towing a boat comes in.  I get up and cook up a curry and make a fresh fruit salad for later.  It’s a busier day with quite a few people coming in and out with their boats but still a great spot to be.

WOOD LAKE 5

SUNDAY 21 SEPTEMBER – A couple of lads stayed overnight and kept going back and forward to the water so not so good for sleeping.  We are ready to move on anyway and pick up route 98 taking us along the coast of the panhandle of Florida.  We pay our top price for gas at $3.89 (GBP2.20) a reflection on the shortages following hurricane Ike.  It is a very scenic route mostly right at the edge of the water where we see lots of stilt houses.  Old rickety ones are mixed in with some very grand mansions.  Many areas of the road are being built up after erosion problems from the storm.  This area is known as the “Forgotten Coast” but we have no idea why as it is so beautiful.  Apalachicola is a quiet little riverside town with no campground therefore they welcome motor homes to stay overnight on their car parks.  We are almost spoilt for choice when we drive around but opt for the one out on Market Street by the new Vietnam memorial.  Return for a walk around town with very attractive wide streets a remnant from when it was a bustling cotton shipping port.  It went on to service the logging industry and became very prosperous so there are some nice mansions as well.  Retire to the car park late afternoon for a peaceful night.

APALACHICOLA

MONDAY 22 SEPTEMBER – Again we really enjoy a beautiful coastal drive, the water is a pretty turquoise green and the beach is like powdered sugar it is so white and fine.  Just before Panama City we cross into the Central time zone so now 6 hours behind BST.  Panama City is huge but we manage to pick up the things we need and get a verdict on a generator problem enabling us to get it going again.  Over the bridge Panama City Beach, on the Emerald Coast, is a whole different story and just like Orlando.  A huge strip runs behind the beach full of accommodation, tourist attractions like “Ripley’s Believe it or not” and loads of shops and restaurants.  Have to laugh at Pineapple Willies being directly opposite Dirty Dicks.  Stop to check out a few sections of the beach but parking is difficult and we reckon we will find nicer and quieter beaches when we turn off onto the 30a.  Got that one wrong as almost the whole of the coastal strange is being developed into cheesy mini villages.  It’s like Disney meets Noddy’s toytown on a grand scale with intermittent old shacks where developers haven’t been able to buy out the land.   At Deer Lake state park we can go over a boardwalk to the beach but once we get there it is cloudy and windy!  When we stayed at Cypress Cove Resort our neighbours were John & Margaret from Santa Rosa Beach and they have invited us to visit.  They moved here from Georgia when they retired and designed their own home.  Unfortunately Margaret is away in Georgia but John and their dog Lizzie are there to great us.  Their home is a fabulous boomerang shaped one and very well thought out.  They have a secluded swimming pool and a boardwalks leads over the swamp to a riverside dock.  Spend the rest of the afternoon relaxing by the pool before cooking us a meal in the evening.

SANTA ROSA BEACH

TUESDAY 23 SEPTEMBER – John used to work with computers and says he will help me do a recovery on my laptop, as many things are not working well.  I paid to have it done whilst back in England but not with the original disk, which were in Florida.  Things do not go well and by mid afternoon, in spite of Johns best efforts, the things seems to have died.  The Geek Squad at the Destin Best Buy store reckon the hard drive has gone with the recovery being the final nail in the coffin.  Check out the laptops they sell and reckon the Toshiba Satellite at $699 looks the best deal but will do some research on Johns computer overnight.  We’ve been hard at it all day so John sends out for a Chinese and it is really nice.

SANTA ROSA BEACH 2

WEDNESDAY 24 SEPTEMBER – Must be my lucky day as not only does my Canadian friend Kevin recommend the laptop I have selected but it has dropped in price to $649.  John helps out by taking me to the store to pick one up.  For the rest of the day Steve lounges by the pool whilst I set about learning how to use Vista and putting things onto the new computer.  John is a great help as many things do not go as planned.  By 11pm we are making headway but still lots to do so call it a day with a plan to stay on tomorrow.

SANTA ROSA BEACH 3

THURSDAY 25 SEPTEMBER – Plod on with the laptop and by the end of the day I have most things up and running, even manage to fit in some swims whilst things are loading up!  Vista is certainly frustrating and I can see why people say it is a temporary operating system!  Big news is the when the President comes on the news to talk about a bale out for the financial problems in the country.  

SANTA ROSA BEACH 4

FRIDAY 26 SEPTEMBER – We’ve had a great time with John but feel it is time to press on.  Continue along the coast to Navarre where we call in to Wal-Mart and confirm that we can park there overnight.  A little further on we drive over the causeway to Navarre Beach on the Gulf Islands National Seashore.  Boardwalks take you over the dunes to a picture perfect spot where we set up to sunbathe.  The nearby pier has been broken by the hurricane and a local tells us that this coast road is closed further along due to storm damage.  We are on a huge car park and Steve asks the local restaurant owner if he thinks we would be OK to stay overnight and he can see no reason why not.  In the evening the restaurant are holding Parrot Head party so we get to sit in the motorhome and enjoy the music from the live band.

NAVARRE BEACH

SATURDAY 27 SEPTEMBER – Our pleasant journey continues along highway 98 with more nice seashore views.  A huge bridge leads us to the major city of Pensacola, but being a Saturday morning it is very quiet and we drive right through the centre with no problems.  Harry finally leaves Florida, after being there for over 5 months, as we enter ALABAMA.  In Foley the City museum we wanted to look at is closed but in the railway station we see a well laid out model railway in action.  The famous “Stacey Rexall Drugs and Old Tyme Soda Fountain” store is not that impressive.  Weeks Bay Reserve wetlands have an interesting boardwalk with all the native trees labelled and a booklet with information about them.  The scenic coast road alongside Mobile Bay has some lovely homes.  Arrive in Fairhope where there is a sculpture park above the municipal pier.  There’s ample parking at the bottom and we enjoy a walk around and admire the fountain in the centre of the rose garden before having lunch.  Daphne is the next town where the Wal-Mart is well back from the main road and they say we can park overnight.  It’s too early in the day for that so we drive into town and find the main street closed due to the 20^th annual Jubilee Festival.  In the nearby Lott car park there are already 2 caravans and a motorhome parked up and the motorhome owner tells us you can stay overnight.   Roam the street checking out the stalls and catch some of the entertainment outside the civic hall.  Wander down to the bay but the roads are too steep and narrow to be good for Harry so we will stay where we are.  Late afternoon we sit out by the van watching the locals make use of the free tennis courts.

DAPHNE, LOTT PARK

SUNDAY 28 SEPTEMBER – At the northern end of Main Street we stop off to walk “Alligator Alley” beside the creek where we immediately see a good sized specimen.  Hope in the I10 to take us over the river to Mobile.  Plan to explore the area but did not plan to do so in the motorhome but the tourist info signs are so confusing that we do a very circuitous route to get there when it should have been easy.  It is located inside Fort Conde and whilst the tourist info is poor the fort is quite interesting.  I especially like the old photos of Mardi Gras.  Next we do the walking tour mainly along Dauphin where there are many really nice old buildings with lots of fancy wrought ironwork balustrades.  Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception is impressive outside but more so inside.  The Scottish Rites temple is amazing in the form of an Egyptian temple but now closed as a religious building and available to rent for functions.  A hobo does his washing in one of the ornamental fountains!  Return to the van to do the historical driving tour.  Pass a “Save a lot” store, a rare sight in the States, the American version of Lidl or Aldi so of course we are obliged as motorhomers to call in!  The driving tour takes us out to Oakleigh Garden area with some fine mansions.  Early afternoon we’ve seen enough and head off on the I10.  Once it changes to a 2-lane motorway it is no fun as the lorries are not happy with us plodding along at 50 mph and hoot as they go past.  As soon as we cross into MISSISSIPPI we leave and rejoin the 90.  Pascagoula is the first time we come into and this time we take up Wal-Marts offer of overnight parking.  Jimmy Buffet, famed for Parrot Head music, was born here but that’s about the only claim to fame. 

PASCAGOULA WAL*MART

MONDAY 29 SEPTEMBER – Cross the bay bridge to Biloxi beach area where there are numerous casinos.  We are getting wise to the system now and set out to simply take up all the offers and only gamble as necessary.  Often when you are given sign up credit you must put it through the machines but can take out your winnings and this is exactly what we do.  Palace Casino give us $10 each for signing up and we add $1 each to activate it, put it through the slots and walk out with $36.50 thank you very much.  Isle of Capri gives us stubby holders for new sign up and Steve gets a T-shirt with it being his birthday month.  There are a whole bunch of casinos here spread out along the shoreline.  Everything here is vulnerable to storm damage and part of life for people who live here.  In fact a local tells us that if they get a year without storm damage they consider it a bonus.  Unfortunately this year they have already been hit by two hurricanes.  Gustav brought strong winds then shortly after the area was flooded during hurricane Ike. There’s a beautiful white sandy beach here but it is closed whilst they clear it of debris.  Many other damaged buildings can be seen and some of the older casinos have now been demolished to make way for storm proof new ones.  Hard Rock casino has some impressive memorabilia including Madonna’s bustier and Elton Johns jumpsuit and cloak.  Beau Rivage is really beautiful inside and compares well with the Vegas casinos.  Boomtown Casino offers a 2 for 1 buffet on Monday and Wednesday (normally $10.99) and a free shuttle bus so we take up the deal.  It a pretty good spread including crab, prawns and mussels.  They offer $10 to new members but you can’t spend it until tomorrow. Walk of our lunch by strolling to nearby Imperial Palace but no deals there.  Back at Main Street we look at the Katrina memorial then take a walk down the street where there are some impressive buildings that seem to have come through unscathed whilst others look quite battered.  Return to Isle of Capri where we have a lovely free parking spot looking out over the bay.

BILOXI, ISLE OF CAPRI CASINO

TUESDAY 30 SEPTEMBER – Begin the day at Hard Rock café where Steve gets a free breakfast for his birthday month.  We both get $10 credit but have to return after 11am to use it.  Up to Boomtown to get their $10 credit then back to Hard Rock for theirs.  The Palace do a $10.99 lunch buffet and reimburse $10 in play credit so we take that up.  The buffet is comparatively poor but we get most of the money back once we have played the slots.  Along the coast we call in at Treasure Bay to convert their  $10 credits to cash.  In the middle of the dual carriageway many trees were damaged during Katrina but the remaining stumps have been carved into animal and bird sculptures.  The lighthouse on the front has survived all the storms and is painted white but when Lincoln was assassinated they painted it black for a time.  Final stop of the day is Island View casino in Gulfport.  They direct us to park by the beach as the casino is on the inland side of the highway so we have another nice view.  This time you get random credit ranging from $10 - $1000.  Steve wins $10 and I get $15 and we convert it to just over $20 cash.  So who says you cannot win at casinos.  I figure we are at least $50 up on the deal and have had entertainment, food, drinks and free camping to boot.

GULFPORT, ISLAND VIEW CASINO  

200809

MONDAY 1 SEPTEMBER 2009 –Royal Caribbean are supposed to be posting a bulletin at 10am about any revised itinerary.  Its after 11am when we find out that instead of being on Coco Cay island tomorrow we will be in Nassau and the full day in Nassau on Wednesday is now a day in Key West.  Not overly happy having been to Key West 3 months ago but better that than getting caught up in Hanna.  Jamie drops us at the port just after 12am and check in begins speedily. All going well until they check our passports.  Our 10-year visa expires on 8^th September and although this cruise arrives back on 5^th September they are concerned we won’t be allowed back in.  Explain that the 8^th is arrival not departure date and show them that we are stamped to stay until January.  They are not convinced and send for an immigration officer.  After conferring they say everything is OK but don’t explain what OK means. Steve chases after the official for a full explanation then turns around to come back to me but walks straight into a glass wall.   He bounces off it with a resounding thud and collapses on the floor.  Along with others I race over.  He gets up and staggers against a wall whilst someone gets a chair.  His nose seems red and has a bump on it but it is not bleeding.  A crowd of officials gather and I ask for an ice pack.  Royal Caribbean staff virtually insists he gets medical attention even though Steve thinks he will be OK.  I get him some ice from the drinks machine and before long the Sheriff joins us followed by two fire service paramedics.  When Steve says he doesn’t want to go to hospital they cancel the ambulance that is en route. Talk about making a drama out of a crisis!  Whilst Steve is giving them personal details I finish checking in.  We have an outside cabin on deck 8 and it is adequate but on the small side.  Head up to Windjammer for a buffet lunch.  I buy the soft drinks package at $6 (£3.30) per day plus 15% - $27.60 - £15).  You get a special mug that with free refills for the duration of the trip.  Not sure whether it will pay off or not as water, lemonade, iced tea, coffee and tea seem to be available for free in most places.  After lunch we have a rest in the room.  Steve has a bit of a bump coming up on his forehead and the makings of a couple of black eyes.  Around 4pm there is the lifeboat drill followed by sail away on the pool deck.  It’s quite strange to be looking out on the Ron Jon Hotel and Jetty Park campground where we stayed 3 weeks ago.  Checking our schedule we are very disappointed to find that tomorrow we only have from noon until 6pm in Nassau meaning we probably don’t have time to take the local busses all around the island as planned.  Change to the early sitting evening meal and the food and service are excellent.  A wide choice and all very tasty.  The evening show with comedian Steve Shaffer is great, either the American sense of humour has changed or we have adapted as he has us chuckling away.  After another exploratory walk around ship we return for a rest before the 70’s and 80’s music.  Steve’s head is hurting a lot now so when he falls asleep I call it a day.  We are woken after 11pm with loud band music coming from the floor below.  The thumping noise does not go down well with Steve but we can’t be bothered to get up and do anything about it tonight. 

ROYAL CARIBBEAN, SOVEREIGN OF THE SEAS

PORT CANAVERAL TOWARDS BAHAMAS

TUESDAY 2 SEPTEMBER – Food being a big part of cruising we can’t resist a full cooked breakfast and more.  I check at reception about the noise and find that the Bolero lounge has late entertainment each night.  We are offered a cabin on deck 9 which should be quieter with just cabins above and below.  As a bonus it is a little larger than the other and has an unobstructed view.  It’s an attractive approach to THE BAHAMAS Providence Island with the capital of Nassau.  We pass many smaller islands with lots of shacks.  Dock right by the main town with big colonial style buildings, all very pretty in pink, and opposite Paradise Island with the ostentatious Atlantis Hotel and casino, quite a contrast.   With over 2000 passengers on board the line to leave ship spans 2 decks and takes ages to pass through security.  With around 5 hours on shore and Steve still not 100% we settle for a walk around the town. Set off through Parliament Square then up the attractive Queens Staircase for views from Fort Fincastle.  After that we stroll through the town and call in to one of the oldest homes “Balcony House” where a donation gets us a free tour.  There are 4 cruise ships in port and the waterfront area is well geared up for them as shopping seems to be many peoples reason for cruising.  $4 (£2.20) each gets us a seat in a shared taxi over to Paradise Island.  Atlantis is quite amazing with a massive aquarium in the main lobby that is even bigger than the ones at Sea World.  The décor is fabulous with lots of glass ceiling features but as a non-resident you cannot get out to their man made beach areas.  The $3 (£1.65) ferry back gives us even better views of the hotel.  Back on board mid afternoon for a snooze and only just wake in time to get ready for formal night.  As on our last cruise this does not seem to be adhered to with a few guests being allowed in wearing T-Shirts and shorts.  Of course I have my trusty little black dress and Steve still has his suit from the last cruise so we manage to look the part.  We have a really nice meal and I round it off with 3 puddings.  Down in the theatre it is the Captains reception where we get free champagne and punch whilst the Captain introduces himself and the crew.  Learn that when this ship was built 20 years ago it was the biggest ocean liner ever but today with 2300 passengers on board it is comparatively mid size.  Steve is feeling sleepy again so we retire to watch a movie and have an early night.

ROYAL CARIBBEAN CRUISE

NASSAU TOWARDS KEY WEST

WEDNESDAY 3 SEPTEMBER – We are not scheduled to arrive in port until the afternoon so get up late for leisurely breakfasts then sit by the pool.  After lunch Steve retires for a sleep whilst I stay to watch the “men’s sexy legs competition” which is really funny as they award things like the most obvious tourist legs!  Docking in Key West USA is impressive as we are right in town by Mallory Square.  Although we dock before 3pm we cannot leave ship until immigration has seen everyone.   Steve now feels much better and his head only hurts when he touches it so there’s a simple answer to that!  As soon as we can we head towards Duval Street, which we walk along before returning via the Bahamian area.  Unusually we are ashore until tomorrow morning and with alcohol expensive on board most guests are happy to hit the bars of Key West.  Return for our evening meal leaving us time to disembark for the sunset waterfront entertainment.   Whilst the sunset is no great shakes the entertainment is good and we especially like the escapologists who gets out of chains and a straight jacket. 

ROYAL CARIBBEAN CRUISE,

KEY WEST PORT

THURSDAY 4 SEPTEMBER – By the time we awake we are well under way.  Although we are sailing parallel to the Keys unfortunately we are too far off shore to see them.  It’s a glorious day and perfect for lying out by the pools.  I go into grazing mode taking a small snack every hour rather than big meals.  The belly flop competition is great fun with men put into size categories.  Unsurprisingly the super sized man wins with the biggest splash.  At the afternoon trivial quiz we team up with and American couple but even with us giving them the correct answers to 3 European relevant questions we still only score 7 out of 15 – having said that the winners only had.  Steve watches the Casino poker tournament whilst I head to Sudoku challenge.   Not all the ships clocks are synchronised so I arrive after it has started but get stuck in.  It is all done on speed and the first correct entry is handed in after 7 ½ minutes.  I get the silver medal with my 9-minute entry, which is not bad considering I was more than 1 ½ minutes late in starting.  Our final evening meal is excellent.  Whilst not everything on the ship is the best we have come across the dining room service certainly is.  A couple next to us had mentioned they were a little disappointed there were neither crepes nor crème Brule on the menu.  We had been chatting about curries to the Goan headwaiter.  Amazingly we find that a shrimp curry has been cooked specially for us and the other couple get both the desserts they wished for.  A quick session of line dancing helps my food go down before the evening show themed on the 60’s 70’s and 80’s.  The 1000 sea theatre is packed and the show rounded off with the cruise director showing us the 10 funniest questions he has been asked.  End up in the Voltage lounge for “The Quest”.  We are asked to form teams for 8 – 10 people and given a number.  Casey calls out a challenge, such as “I want 1 man to bring me 3 ladies bra’s in their hands” and the team members who do this within a set time get a point.  It is hilarious and has us in stitches and will be a highlight of the cruise.  Hand on afterwards for some disco dancing but the sway of the ships finally sends us to our cabin sometime after midnight.

ROYAL CARIBBEAN CRUISE

KEY WEST TOWARDS PORT CANAVERAL

FRIAY 5 SEPTEMBER – With only carry on baggage we have no specific disembarkation time.  Jamie is meeting us around 10am so rather than racing off after 7am we linger as long as possible.  It is a very miserable rainy day.  Apparently we have avoided Hanna as she is now up the coast ahead of us but this is a side effect.  The last guests are asked to leave ship just after 9am so we are pleasantly surprised to find Jamie waiting for us under a big umbrella.  He takes us home and tells us about the weather forecast with Ike now heading our way.  Looks like this is going to be a bad season for hurricanes.  Back in the motorhome we find a puddle on the floor under the air conditioner.  Steve sets to work mopping up and tracing the leak whilst I unpack.  At 1pm we have an appointment at Leisure RV as the Dometic fridge company have a recall on our model for a fire shield fitting at their expense.  Whilst there Steve mentions our roof leak and we find out that a gasket is missing but its not something they stock.  In the interim they have made a temporary seal with something else but with the storms heading this way we need to think about getting it fixed properly.  Jamie has some home made soup waiting for us on return after which we take an afternoon nap.   In the evening we go back to Village Inn for coffee and pie and our stomachs cope much better with this than the cruise dinners!

TITUSVILLE

SATURDAY 6 SEPTEMBER – Hurricane Ike has changed course and seems to be heading the way we had intended going.  Jamie is in no rush for us to leave so we will spend today here monitoring the storm and doing odd jobs.  We now think the air conditioner leak was due to the side winds and rain and unavoidable under the conditions so on that basis it is even more important for us to hurricane hop along.  Cook a fish dinner at Jamie’s then spend the day relaxing and tour planning.  I had lost a bit of weight before the cruise and decided that having my belly pierced would inspire me to keep going.  Jamie does piercing and gives me a friend’s rate of $10 (£5.50) including jewellery.  It’s a bit uncomfortable but not really painful if I change my mind (or don’t lose more weight) I can just take it out.

TITUSVILLE 2

SUNDAY 7 SEPTEMBER – We leave after the Grand Prix TV coverage has finished.  For the first time in 4 months we are back on the road with no fixed destination for the day and boy does it feel good.  We came down the coastal road so hop on the 95 to get us north quickly.  Petrol prices are dropping and we fill up at $3.56 (£2) but the exchange rate is worse for us around $1.80 = £1 so it is really no cheaper.  Turn inland and make our way to Deleon Springs State Park, $5 (£2.75).  An underground spring bubbles up into a man made swimming pool before spilling over into a river.  It’s a beautiful spot and obviously very popular with locals.  The old sugar mill has been converted into a restaurant and the photographs show it surrounded by lush green lawns.  Today the floodwater almost reaches the front of it.   I’m not sure about getting my new piercing wet so only go for a paddle in the cool clear waters.  In the middle of the swimming area is an underground cave and we see divers swimming out to it.  Leave around 4pm and off hwy 40 turn down St Johns road to the state forest.  The gate is closed as the area is flooded but this suits us fine as a track beside the gate gives us a nice free camp for the night.  We can barely hear the traffic but have a noisy night surrounded by croaking frogs!

NR ASTOR, ST JOHN RIVER ROAD

MONDAY 8 SEPTEMBER – We are woken early when a noisy car pulls up opposite.  The couple in it walk around the gate to walk in the forest.  Ocala is the largest city in the area and we head to the RV dealer to see about getting a service for Harry.  They advertise one at $39.99 but this turns out to be just an oil change and once you add on anything else at all it jumps up to their hourly rate of $105 so we give it a miss.  We are heading to the town of Hawthorne to meet Rich & Phyllis.  6-years ago they did a home exchange with my cousin Karen in Wakefield and she has put us in touch with them.  At the moment they are building a new home for themselves but suggest we meet at their lakeside log cabin around 5pm but can arrive early and settle ourselves in.  On a large plot of land we find a traditional style cabin with rocking chairs on the porch and behind it a beautiful screened swimming pool.  Beyond this a boardwalk leads down to the lake.  Rich arrives and we are soon getting on a like a house on fire with much in common.  Along with his partner Phyllis they are living in their motorhome on a plot of land where they have just about finished building their new home.  The cabin is rented out most of the time but when they have had weekenders in they come back to stay during the week.  Once the market picks up they are planning to sell it along with their other rental properties in order to do more travelling.  He suggests we go to the “Blue Water Bay” in Melrose to meet Phyllis for a meal.  The original bar and restaurant burnt down and was rebuilt in 2003 but made to look old.  Phyllis is waiting for us and has bumped into her son Houston there.  Again we find lots to chat about and notice that this is more like and English style pub with locals bobbing in and out including Houston’s father in law Matt.  On Monday they have a special $9.99 (£5.50) menu with some interesting choices.  Steve and the others opt for salmon en croute topped with crabmeat whilst I pick the crawfish Creole over herb rice.  All the meals are outstanding.  My visit to the bathroom turns up a few surprises.  Electronic gadgets abound but the one I like best is the sensor near the door, which opens the door automatically when you wave your hand in front of it.  I comment on how impressed I am to the owner and he says a friend markets these products and put them in for him but most are sold in India of all places.  It’s quite late when we leave but we will see more of Rich and Phyll as we have volunteered to help them with some painting at he new house.

HAWTHORNE

TUESDAY 9 SEPTEMBER – Phyll was originally a barber but now does ladies hair and today is working at a nursing home and has left before we get up.  Rich joins us for breakfast in the motorhome after which we drive to their new home.  First he gives us a tour of the estate and takes us down to the jetty on the nearby lake.  Its easy to see how high it as the adjoining swamp is now completely flooded.  Their home is in modern style with open plan lounge, diner and kitchen on the ground floor as well as two en-bedrooms.  Upstairs covers only part of the building and will a combination of study and a place where Phyll’s grandchildren can hang out sleep when they visit.  Today one of the bedroom ceilings and the upstairs rooms high sloping ceiling need painting.  It takes us back to doing up Parkwood as I begin dong the ceiling edges whilst Steve does the rest with the roller.  Once we have finished the bedroom we join Rich upstairs and it is not even lunchtime before we are done.  After showering at the cabin we have lunch in our motorhome.  Join Rich for a ride into Gainesville, a University City and home to the Gators football team.  After driving past the stadium we visit Home Depot for Rich to get more supplies.  We’ve time for a dip in the swimming pool before Phyll returns and join us for a meal in the motorhome.

HAWTHORNE 2

WEDNESDAY 10 SEPTEMBER – We wake to a warm but cloudy morning, perfect for giving the motorhome a good clean so we get stuck in.  Steve treats the rubber roof and starts working his way down whilst I start at the bottom working up.  Rain stops work just before we are finished but we are exhausted anyway.  It is a heavy storm and probably a sidekick to hurricane Ike.  According to the news it is an enormous storm over 600 miles across and heading for Texas.  Rich calls in for a drink in the evening.

HAWTHORNE 3

THURSDAY 11 SEPTEMBER – Rich takes us out for breakfast and Lois’s and we have a great feed.  He drops us off before heading to the house.  There is no more work we can help him with so stay at home to potter round and enjoy the pool.  In the evening Phyll and Rich join us for a curry and we talk more about motorhoming as they seem keen to visit us in Mexico this winter either in their motorhome or by flying out to join us in ours.

HAWTHORNE 4

FRIDAY 12 SEPTEMER – Join Phyll and Rich for breakfast by the pool.    He is trying to sell 4 of his 5 houses in order to travel much more but the market here is on the decline so not the best of times to get out of it.  They are a great couple and we hope to meet again in the near future.  Head off to Alachua where we are booked in at the Ford dealer Santa Fe for a service.  Arrive a little early for our 1pm appointment but we are all done and out just after 2pm with a bill just under $100 (£55).  After picking up wi-fi in High Springs we continue to O’Leno State Park where they are supposed to have primitive camping at $4 pp but they tell us it is $16.50.  Back track to where we saw a sign to the Florida Birding trail on Old Bellamy Road.  A mile or so along the track ends in the park area but it is attached to O’Leno and closed from sunset to sunrise.  Heading back to the main road we find a nice little track on our left that will suit us fine for overnight.  It’s a very hot night but nice and peaceful.

OLD BELLAMY ROAD, OFF HWY 441, 2^ND LEFT SOUTH OF O’LENO

SATURDAY 13 SEPTEMBER – Our 33^rd wedding anniversary.  We plan to visit some springs where you can ride down the river on tubes.  Heading towards Ichetucknee State Park we see lots of places that rent out tubes and dinghies but we have an airbed that should do the job.  Admission is $5 (£2.75) a car but at the moment they will take a book donation in place of it.  We walk upstream to enter the river, a 10-minute stroll through the forest.  A platform makes it easy to launch the airbed and then we are off floating on the natural lazy river.  Being a spring the water is 72F year round, perfect for keeping you cool but not cold.  The water is very clear and a nice turquoise colour but flowing slowly, all very pretty with Spanish moss strewn trees forming a canopy.  At the half waypoint we hop out and find that some people have apparently decided not to do the full trip and abandoned their tubes so we pick one up.  Reckon we are well over an hour floating down to the end where ropes guide you to the exit platform.  Tubes and dinghies are deposited here for collection and most people have someone waiting to pick them up in a car but we walk the 20 minutes back to the main parking area.  To get to the north section of the park you have to leave and drive around the outside.  Again it’s a very pretty spot and this time you get to see where the springs bubble up.  Ichetucknee is a pretty one and great to swim in with goggles as you can see down into the cave and admire lots of colourful plants under the crystal clear water.  A track enables you to walk to the “Blue Hole” downstream, which is even bigger and much quieter but a bit colder.  After making use of the showers we head off around 4pm and cross the Suwannee River, the one that crops up in many songs.  Troy Springs sound good as a civil war ship was scuppered here but never re floated so the wreck can be seen under water.  Unfortunately we arrive to find that due to the heavy rains from Fay the area is flooded and the water no longer clear.  Heading back out we see a side road marked “Ruth Springs Road” and we immediately see a sign saying it is public land.  A side road that loops around becomes a perfect overnight spot for us with grass and shade.

RUTH SPRINGS OFF 27 NEAR TROY SPRINGS STATE PARK

SUNDAY 14 SEPTEMBER – We explore further along the main track after our loop and Steve walks into the next track, as it looks narrow.  He returns to tell me a steep, twisted and uneven track drops down to a beautiful natural spring and he thinks we can make it.  He’s right and we end up parked under shady trees beside a natural headspring and spend the day alternating between lounging around and bathing.  Few people come by and it is really peaceful.  Late afternoon it begins raining so we retreat up the hill in case it becomes too slippery but enabling us to go down for a late skinny dip.   Returning down the main road to our overnight spot we can see what a difference a small amount of rain makes as the track is already very muddy and boggy.  Finally we get a cooler night making it easier to sleep.

RUTH SPRINGS 2

MONDAY 15 SEPTEMBER – Back to the springs for another relaxing day.  Around 2.30pm it begins raining so we take our cue and leave.  The next big town is Perry where we use the library for Internet.  Looks like we may have to travel slower than planned as pretty much all the coastline of Texas was wiped out by Ike and people are still stranded in cars.  Settle onto the Wal*Mart car park for the night.

PERRY WAL*MART

SATURDAY 16 AUGUST – All wake up at leisure and then Steve joins Claire and the kids for a last visit to Blizzard Beach Water Park.  I pack up the van and at 10am drive up to the car park.  Daz tries to do the Disney check in but it only applies to direct international flights.  When the swimmers return I have dinner ready as our last meal together.  Around 2pm they board the Disney Magical Express coach to the airport.  It has been a fantastic 2 weeks together but very tiring and we probably tried to pack too much into it but we just about muddled through.  Steve & I stop for a quick shop en route to Cypress Cove.  I expected the store to be busy on Saturday but people are piling shopping carts high and it is mayhem.  When we get set up at the Cove we hear the news that hurricane Fay is due to hit Orlando area on Tuesday and this is probably why people were stocking up.  3 loads of washing later we have the van pretty much back to normal and spend the evening with Steve watching Olympics on TV and me on the Internet. 

CYPRESS COVE RESORT

SUNDAY 17 AUGUST – Lie in until almost 8am then get back into routine with a game of petanque.  Throughout the day more warnings are put out about hurricane Fay so we walk around the resort and decide that either the laundry or the toilet block will be our bolthole when it hits.  There’s a Doctor here today doing skin cancer checks so we both go along and find that I have one suspicious freckle and Steve has a few that we should get checked out in the future.  Speak to Daz & Claire on skype and learn that they had good flights back but are now feeling very tired.  Natasha slept the whole time on the long leg.  We get lots of brief spells of rain and see many people packing up to return to their homes but overall its rather a nice day and much cooler than it has been.  Manage to fit in my 40 lengths of the pool late afternoon.  It is now getting like a ghost town here with the weekenders leaving and other packing up to go back and protect their homes. 

CYPRESS COVE 2

MONDAY 18 AUGUST – At petanque only one other player shows up. Throughout the day staff go around tying things down and removing anything that is likely to blow around.  We have just our adjoining neighbours left in our row and they are sleeping out tomorrow night as they have friends arriving to stay in a villa.  At the pool area just a few loungers and chairs have been left out for use but I do get chance of a good swim without weaving amongst people.  By evening the site seems deserted so we are surprised to find people have shown up to play cribbage and enjoy a couple of games each before we are knocked out.  All TV channels are carrying bulletins about Fay and knowing that the office at the Cove is closing at 2.30pm tomorrow we have to make a decision by then as to whether to tough it out in the motorhome or rent a villa for the night.  All local knowledge says staying in a motorhome is not an option but I am having trouble convincing Steve of this.  Jamie in Titusville asked us to go over there but knowing how often weather forecasters get it wrong we could be out of the frying pan and into the fire doing that.

CYPRESS COVE 3

TUESDAY 19 AUGUST – Its fine when we wake up but you can tell it will soon be raining so we don’t even attempt petanque.  Latest storm update is that the eye of the storm is heading further east and going to hit Titusville but that our area is now under tornado watch.  The storm has not worsened to a hurricane but may do so once it hits land.  I know all this is pointing to it being less of a threat but against Steve’s wishes I books us a villa at the reduced hurricane special rate of $45 (£22.50) night. Throughout the day I sit in the room watching movies and using the Internet whilst Steve watches Olympics in the motorhome.  We get lots of rainy spells and wind but nothing that bad so it looks like I have boobed.  At least it is quiet overnight as it would probably be noisy in the van with the rain on the roof.

CYPRESS COVE 4, VILLA 1166

WEDNESDAY 20 AUGUST – Linger in the room until 11am checkout.  Even around the van the only signs of the storm are a few broken twigs.  It rains for most of the day but during an afternoon dry spell I put in 44lengths of the pool.  At least we have TV reception so Steve can watch Olympics and Internet to keep me entertained.

CYPRESS COVE 5

THURSDAY 21 AUGUST – It has rained most of the night.  I’ve ordered a few things on line through Amazon and my first package arrives, a mini SD card for the telephone.  It was really cheap; including postage $11 (£6) so I’m surprised to find the 2GB card comes with an adapter to turn it into a regular SD card that I can use with my camera.  Achieve m 46-length target in an empty pool.  Once the rain stops the wind picks up and it is pretty wild.  Make it to the evening Euchre session but only 6 of us turn up.

CYPRESS COVE 5

FRIDAY 22 AUGUST – It’s still dull and windy and in fact turns into a bad day with lots of very heavy downpours and some strong winds.  Again between the rains I swim and am up to 48 lengths.  At the evening crab races there are only 13 entries and with 10 heats Steve soon becomes a winner and gets a 2 for 1 drinks voucher. It’s the last race and my crab is still in there but storms home and as the last winner I get 2 vouchers.  In the grand finale ours have both gone back to sleep.  Its Rock and Roll weekend at he Cove but only about a dozen people show up at Cheeks for the disco and they are just sitting around so we opt to stay home and watch a movie.

CYPRESS COVE 6

SATURDAY 23 AUGUST – It’s a very pleasant morning and enough people turn up for petanque.  Return to do some cleaning on the motorhome as the awning has got quite a bit of mould on it which all comes off with a good scrubbing.  In the afternoon Steve sits by the pool whilst I put in 50 lengths but has to return before I’m finished as a storm begins.  Again we get torrential rain for a few hours.  At the evening trivia Steve wins one of the round but selecting the price from 1-10 he ends up with the lowest value one of a free drink.  Classic Rock weekend includes a live band and we sit and listen for half and hour or so but recognise nothing so return home.

CYPRESS COVE 7

SUNDAY 24 AUGUST – We begin the nice day with petanque.  In the afternoon Mike shows up at the pool.  52 lengths on the score card today.

CYPRESS COVE 8

MONDAY 25 AUGUST – No one at petanque so that upsets our routine.  Our neighbours John & Margaret leave so now we have a nice view up the street. Sporting events are 56 lengths in the pool and cribbage in the evening.  I’ve ordered a couple of things on line through Amazon.  It worked really well as they delivered them here but my English billing address meant I didn’t have to pay any tax.

CYRESS COVE 9

TUESDAY 26 AUGUST – Morning petanque.  I have fun trying out my new toys.  A Hawking mini dish to extend and amplify my wi-fi and a portable mini hard drive to back up my computer.  60 lengths of the pool and an evening playing Euchre.

CYPRESS COVE 10

WEDNESDAY 27 AUGUST – No players for petanque again.  Begin our cruise preparation by digging out our fancy gear and checking if it needs washing etc.  Unfortunately I am so unused to ironing that I forget I have left the hot iron out and burn my arm reaching past it.  There is a nudist research library here, open on skeleton hours, and today we pay a visit.  They have an amazing array of bound naturist magazines from all over the world and copies of almost all the naturist videos that they have now put onto DVD.  Spend the evening by the pool bouncing between the hot tub and the cooler pool until thunder and lightening force us home.

CYPRESS COVE 11

THURSDAY 28 AUGUST – After petanque I do a load of laundry.  Other than sheets and sarongs we have little washing whilst here so it has taken us 12 days to create enough to fill a machine.  Vern arrives onto the site next door and brings doom and gloom about the approaching newly forming storm Hanna that could hit the Caribbean next week.  Ignoring the rumbling thunder I persevere to reach my targeted 64 lengths of the pool (1 mile).  I’m glad I have managed it but boy is it boring – how on earth Claire swam for miles and miles beats me although she probably swims 3 or 4 times faster than I do.  I certainly wouldn’t get any prizes for style or speed.  Richard is the only one to turn up for Euchre so we play a 3 handed game.

CYPRESS COVE 13

FRIDAY 29 AUGUST – This is the start of Labour Day weekend and people begin arriving early in the day.   In the evening we join John & Meg for a drink before heading for the crab races.  Again I have a winner so Steve says we have to stay longer so he can use the 2 for 1 drink voucher to get some whiskey.  When we get home we end up going in to John & Megs and are up late chatting whilst Steve makes a bit of a hole in Johns whiskey.   Steve flakes out on our sofa and is not well through the night.

CYPRESS COVE 14

SATURDAY 30 AUGUST – Steve is still rough in the morning so I go alone to petanque.  It’s Daniels 11^th birthday but he’s away at a scout camp so we can’t talk to him but learn he had a good ten pin bowling party on Thursday.  Sherri gives me a lift up to the supermarket for a shop.  Late afternoon we get a heavy downpour, which puts paid to the petanque competition.  End up just having the meal in the Terrace and defer the game until tomorrow morning.

CYPRESS COVE 15

SUNDAY 31 AUGUST – It’s a cloudy morning but dry enough for the petanque tournament.  It is set up so teams of ladies play teams of men and before the second game new teams are drawn.  Total team points are added up and the men end up just winning.  Then they play some fun games.  For the last one you all throw your boule on the court with no target then someone throws the couch ball over his or her shoulder and the nearest ball to it wins. I’m a winner and get a great Cypress Cove T-shirt as my prize.  We are both sad to leave the Cove having had a great time and made some new friends but at least the weather isn’t enticing us to linger.  Set off after lunch and take the toll road ($1 and $1.25) over to Titusville.  Jamie comes out to great us and as our 3^rd visit to him he calls out “welcome home”.  Spend the afternoon catching up on news then head out to the chain restaurant “The Village” for supper.  They are famous for their pies and do a package deal of starter, main course and half a pie slice at very reasonable prices.  My key lime pie is excellent.  Fellow couchsurfer Pedro joins us for coffee afterwards.  We met him at Jamie’s when he arrived from Portugal to begin his helicopter pilot training course.  He has now progressed to having done 3 solo flights and tells us all about it.  Back I Jamie’s I monitor tropical storm Hanna and conclude that it looks unlikely that our cruise to the Bahamas will go ahead as planned.  Reckon we will find out in the morning what the new itinerary is and so long as it isn’t a cruise to nowhere we will go along with it. TITUSVILLE

200808

FRIDAY 1 AUGUST – We are a bit later setting out and there are really long queues to get into Aquatica car park.  Again there is no charge to park the RV.  This time we secure ourselves a seat at the beach and leave the kids to roam freely.  In the afternoon we take the free shuttle bus over to Sea World.  There are a number of shows the kids want to do again and a few attractions we have missed.  After the dolphin show the kids buy a tray of fish, $7 (£3.50) to feed them.  Even without food they come right up to the edge for you to stroke them and it is a great experience.  On the way out an official at the stingray pool gives some fish scraps away.  This time the kids are quite nervous about feeding the fish and usually end up dropping it. 

TURKEY LAKE 5

SATURDAY 2 AUGUST – We try a different approach route but it is even worse and by the time we have parked in Aquatica they have put up signs to say the park is full and no one will be admitted until 3.30pm.  Take the shuttle over to Sea World and today I buy one of the all day dining wrist bands $25.95 (£13).  Whilst Steve and Natasha look at the dolphin nursery Daniel and I go in search of breakfast and he is happy with his chicken nugget feast.  Throughout the day I am able to pop into certain restaurants and take 1 main course, 1 starter or desert and 1 drink so I make the most of this and manage to feed us all quite easily.  Today Natasha gets lucky and wins on the wacky wire and brings out a giant Shamu.  Late afternoon Aquatica is still pretty busy but Daniel is more than happy just sitting in the fast river rapids whilst Natasha wanders around with me.  The park is open until 10pm and after dark things quieten down so that the kid manage to get on loads more rides.  Decide to leave around 9.30pm to beat the crowds.  We’re all fit to burst with food and Daniel declares he has never been so full nor had a day when he has eaten chicken nuggets for breakfast, lunch, tea and supper. 

TURKEY LAKE 6

SUNDAY 3 AUGUST – Wake up to receive a text message saying Claire & Daz are on their way although she is upset as they took her tan accelerator off her at Manchester airport check in.  We have a really busy morning washing all the bedding and clothes and swapping beds over again.  Natasha is a great help Steve clean outside the van and the floors inside.  Leave around midday and call in for a Wal*Mart shop en route to stock up on groceries for 6 of us.  We are going to be staying at the Disney Fort Wilderness campground for the first and last 4 days of their visit.  This means we get free transport for them to and from the airport, free transport around Disney and the chance to return to the motorhome throughout the day.  Our site is in Possum Patch circle that has a comfort station (toilets, showers and laundry).  The sites are level and a good size with picnic table, water and electricity.  Once we have settled in we head off to check out the bus system and to use our timeshare earned voucher to pick up the Disney tickets.  All the Disney buses run every 20 minutes so after picking up the tickets at the studios I decide we will visit Pleasure Island and explore a bit of the area.  This soon has to be abandoned as although the buses run frequently you can waste a lot of time if you have just missed one.  Arrive back around 5.30pm for tea and to await Claire & Daz’s arrival on the Disney Magical Express shuttle bus.  Around 8am a mini bus pulls up at our site with them onboard.  Although the last couple have weeks have gone really quickly the kids are glad to see their parents.  Within minutes of their arrival they have dropped their bags in the van so we can walk across to the Chip & Dale campfire.  There’s a band playing country songs to be followed by Winnie the Pooh movie.  Daniel & Natasha enjoy roasting marshmallows over a log fire but we are all too tired to stay up and watch the movie or the 10pm Magic Kingdom fireworks and are all tucked up in bed by 9.30pm.

DISNEY FORT WILDERNESS CAMPGROUND

$47 + TAX (£24) campsite for 2 + $2 (£1) per extra person

MONDAY 4 AUGUST – After breakfast on the patio we are raring to go.  Steve has chosen not to do any of the Disney attractions but joins us on the bus to Typhoon Lagoon.  Arrive just as it opens at 9am enabling us to get on some of the more popular rides without waiting long.  Snorkelling over the sharks and fish takes all Natasha’s courage but she does it and even wants a second go.  There are some excellent rides and the wave pool is enormous.  By midday the queues are building up and it’s also very hot so we catch the bus back to the campground for lunch.  This time we make great connections and are back within ½ hour.  It’s handy being able to return for a bite to eat, change of clothes and a brief rest.  Our afternoon plan is to visit Animal Kingdom and we arrive there around 2pm.  It’s a somewhat confusing park as all the theme lands are around an island and not all directly connected.  The centre of the island is the magnificent 145-foot “Tree of Life” carved with over 300 animal images.  Our fast pass for Dinosaur is for around 5pm so with time to spare we take in the musical Nemo show, which is pretty good.  Walking via Asia to Africa we catch the 4pm parade before taking the Kilimanjaro Safari.  A small African village has been created and from the edge of it we board a safari truck for an 18-minute drive through a game reserve with an excellent variety of wildlife.  Unlike our safaris in Africa you are pretty much guaranteed sightings, as it is such a small area.  Wander through the Pangani Forest but it’s not great so we head back to DinoLand and some rides.  We keep plodding on but Daz has backache, I have neck ache, Claire has a headache and we are all a bit footsore. As Disney guests we have an extra 3-hours in the park after it officially closes at 8pm but after a fantastic ride on “Expedition Everest” we are all done for and arrive back just before 10pm

FORT WILDERNESS 2

TUESDAY 5 AUGUST – New plan for the day, we will chill in the morning then hit the park after lunch hoping to stay very late.  Take a boat across the lake to Wilderness Lodge, a very impressive artificial Disney version of the real thing.  Our afternoon park is Epcot and with 2 days to do it in we concentrate on the front area of Future World.  An amazing show is “Turtle talk with Crush” an animated show that somehow interacts with the audience.  Mission Space is an impressive ride and the “orange” sector puts you into a rocket that launches into space and bounces around.  After the spectacular 9pm firework display we are again all tired and head for home.

FORT WILDERNESS 3

WEDNESDAY 6 AUGUST – Plan C is to get up when we are ready and head to Hollywood Studios but this doesn’t get us there until after 10am and it is already busy.  Fast Pass Tower of Terror and do other rides whilst waiting for it.  We do seem to get into more shows and onto more rides than we have done in the other parks and the park layout is easier to understand and more compact.  It’s the hottest day this summer peaking at over 100F and we sure feel it so once again have to call it a day earlier than planned and arrive back around 8.30pm. 

FORT WILDERNESS 4

THURSDAY 7 AUGUST – New plan is an early start to get to Blizzard Beach for the Disney guest extra morning hour.  This gets us into the park at 8am and surprisingly we all make it on time.  The most famous attraction is the Summit Plummet a 120-foot waterslide but once we arrive at the entrance only Claire & I are brave enough to go for it.  I almost wish I hadn’t as the bottom part of the steep drop has you surfing along the water and it really hurts the bottom of your back.  Teamboat Springs is the longest family raft ride in the world and great fun as it twists and turns along a 1400’ course of waterfalls and rapids.  By the time the park opens to everyone the queues are long so we take on the less thrilling rides and enjoy ourselves until midday.  Back at Fort Wilderness Steve has checked out of the campground and is waiting in the day parking area.  (We’re surprised it isn’t full of vehicles as it is a free parking spot from which you can get free buses to all the Disney attractions rather than pay the $13 parking fees).   Our lunch stop is the Golden Coral all you can eat buffet restaurant where Steve & I get away with the seniors price and as we have a voucher it is only $6.50 (£3.25) each for the full buffet and unlimited drinks.  Claire & family are well impressed and all manage to overeat.  It’s possibly a mistake to take highway 50 out to the coast as the first stretch is within Orlando area and there are lots of traffic lights.  Do another shop at Titusville Wal*Mart before heading to visit our Couchsurfing friend Jamie.  He has kindly invited us all to visit, Steve & I will sleep in his home whilst the family camp in the motorhome.  He is looking after his daughter’s collie puppy Angus and Daniel & Natasha fall in love with him.  We chat and catch up on Jamie’s news and admire his handiwork where he is fixing up his park home.  It’s an incredibly hot night and unfortunately Jamie’s extension cable is not powerful enough to run the air conditioner in the van so the kids are in for a hot and sweaty night.  Thunder rumbles and we get lots of lightening but it is a dry storm and does not clear the air.  Getting ready for bed I notice that I have some quite large bruises on the upper half of my bum cheeks from the ride!

TITUSVILLE

FRIDAY 8 AUGUST – Steve & I sleep in until after 8am and wake to find the family all up and dressed and breakfasted.  They have not had the best of nights but did manage some sleep.  Daniel & Natasha both take Angus for a walk before we leave.  Arrive just before the 10am opening of the Space museum in town.  The volunteer was once head of the shuttle programme and points out some interesting pieces in the museum.  Next stop is the Kennedy Space Centre where we stay in the motorhome whilst the family do the tour.  We have been before and at $38.95 (£20) a head are not bothered about doing it again.  It’s just after 11am when we return to the van.  Early afternoon a big storm is brewing and an announcement goes out to tell everyone to stay inside.  Thunder lightening and a short but heavy downpour accompanied by wind follows.  It’s obviously a very good attraction, as the family don’t come back until after 6pm and even then did no to everything that was possible.  Just a few miles away is Jetty Park campground where we have booked a site.    It’s a smallish camp on the edge of the canal and behind a beautiful beach.  Even before I have served tea the kids are down at the beach and also return for a late swim.  Claire and I walk along the jetty and spot racoons in the rocks.

JETTY PARK

$25 (£12.50) Inc electric and water

SATURDAY 9 AUGUST – I have a restless night.  At one stage Natasha falls out of the over cab bed and lands on top of me and later on Daniel seems to be playing a game of blind mans buff and feeling his way around the van!  I get up for an early walk and swim then return to take Daniel and Natasha for their first dip of the day.  After breakfast the Wilson’s go off to the beach whilst Steve and I do a few odd jobs.  Throughout the day we make it to the beach only to have to return when a brief storm comes through.  According to the weather report these are the backlash of severe storms hitting Orlando so we are still better off.  During an afternoon swim small turtles can be seen in the water.  Drive down to Cocoa Beach Pier for an evening meal at the Atlantic restaurant.  It’s a great location with fine views up the beach and nice food.  Back at Jetty Park the Wilsons go out for an evening stroll and see a family of racoons.

JETTY PARK 2

SUNDAY 10 AUGUST – Steve & I did a timeshare presentation back in May and part of the reward was 1 night in a 1-bedroom apartment at the Cape Caribbe Ron Jon Hotel.  Its right night to Jetty Park so as soon as we are ready we re locate to their car park.  I do a pre check in enabling us to use their swimming pool and water park until our room is ready.  There is a children cinema, mini golf and other amenities free to use so Daniel & Natasha are very happy.  We get into our room early afternoon and Steve commandeers the TV to watch the Olympic games whilst I make full use of the washing machine and tumble dryer!  The apartment is large and well appointed, the Wilsons are taking the bedroom with 2 double beds and Steve & I will sleep on the sofa bed in the lounge.  I cook us a pasta meal in the evening and its nice to be able to all sit around the table to enjoy it.  We are looking out over the canal and watch 3 large cruise ships departing.  This reminds me of a special offer I received on the Internet and with free wi-fi at the hotel it is only a matter of time before Steve & I are booked.  On 1^st September we are doing a 4-day cruise to the Bahamas on the Royal Caribbean International ship Sovereign of the Seas.   At $219 (£110) each for an outside cabin even with taxes and fuel supplements it still only totals $587 (£295) and we get $20 (£10) each on board credit. 

PORT CANAVERAL, RON JON CAPE CARIBBE HOTEL

MONDAY 11 AUGUST – We have to be out of the room by 10am but can use the pool area as long as we like.  A man and a woman are walking round with baby alligators promoting their show tomorrow night.  With their snouts taped up they are offered to you for photographs and even Claire plucks up courage to participate.  Claire works on her tan whilst the rest of us flit around.  Leave around 3pm and take the toll motorway back towards Orlando incurring 3 payments totalling $2.75 (£1.40) so probably worth it.  Make a slow tour up International Drive before returning to Golden Coral.  The evening meal is $11.99 (£6) but includes steak and boy do we get our moneys worth.  Daniel just about eats himself sick and has to leave before the rest of us are finished!  The nearby Wal*Mart on Turkey Lake Road say we can stay overnight so we park up and spend the rest of the evening in the store.  I get my home haircut tidied up for the cruise and the Wilsons do some souvenir shopping.  It’s another hot night and a little noisy so none of us sleep really well.

WAL*MART ORLANDO, TURKEY LAKE ROAD

TUESDAY 12 AUGUST – Make an early start to drive back to Fort Wilderness campground.  Although check in isn’t until 1pm we again to a pre check in and get our resident passes enabling us to take in the extra morning hour at Magic Kingdom.  To get there you take the bus through the campground and then a boat across.  Arriving at 8.30am we find they have in fact opened the part to everyone negating our advantage.  It is still a great park with all types or rides and shows and lots of fast past options.  We make the most of theses and flit between Tomorrow Land and Frontier Land to take in the major rides. Catch the show in front of the castle and most of the rides before tiredness kicks in.  I set off back with Daz & Natasha leaving Claire & Daniel to follow after they return for a second helping of the very funny Monsters Inc show.

FORT WILDERNESS CAMPGROUND

WEDNESDAY 13 AUGUST – First park of the day is Typhoon Lagoon where Daz & Daniel head off together and us girls set out to do all the rides on tubes.  After my bashing on Plummet Summit and subsequent bruises I am steering well clear of any other rides.  Claire is struggling with a blocked ear so after a while sits it out whilst Natasha & I play in the wave pool.  Natasha is crawling in the shallows when I see a wave coming but she doesn’t get up when I call her and gets dragged in to the shore.  Unfortunately the bottom of the pool is like sand paper and she grazes her back.  I walk back to Claire to say I am taking her to First Aid and Claire decides to join us to mention about her ear.  The First Aid office is unmanned as they have just had a girl collapse at the nearby restaurant and they are all busy with resuscitation.  Once the paramedics arrive to take over we get our minor injuries attended to.  Natasha has some numbing antiseptic sprayed on her back and Claire is given some anti-inflammatory tablets and told to buy an alcohol product called “Swimmers Ear” to dry her ear canal out.  Meet up with Daz & Daniel for some Disney photos in the wave pool.  In all the parks there are professional photographers eager to take your picture.  You then get a wristband with a card on and can later go on line to look at your picture and then have the option of buying some or even spending $130 (£65) to get them all on CD and then be able to edit them with Disney scripts and logos.  Back to camp for lunch.  In the afternoon Steve joins Daz when he goes off for a round of golf whilst the rest of us return to Magic Kingdom.  Arrive in perfect time for the afternoon parade and then begin picking up on the rides we didn’t do yesterday and repeating the ones we particularly enjoyed.  It all works out really well and we round it off with the fantastic evening “Spectra Magic” parade followed by the fireworks over the castle.  Manage to race out of the park and straight onto a boat getting us back within ½ hour.

FORT WILDERNESS CAMPGROUND 2

THURSDAY 14 AUGUST – We’ve realised that the early and late hours are not working but have heard that the other parks are quieter on the days without extra hours so plan accordingly.  Today we will spend the morning picking up the things we missed at Hollywood Studios.  Claire & I are the only ones up for an early start and everyone else opts to miss it and have a lie in.  At Indiana Jones set we chat to one of the employees and he gives us fast passes for the first showing.  Nearby is “Sounds Dangerous – Starring Drew Carey” and just as we are heading towards the theatre doors and man jumps out at us from behind a pillar. “Congratulations” he says, “you have just won a Dream fast pass as part of the Disney Year of a Million Dreams giveaway”.   30,000 people are expected visit the park today and at random 300 will be given these passes.  Once we have recovered from the surprise we figure that as everyone entering this attractions is getting them they are targeting people early in the park and doing one of the lesser visited attractions; enabling him to hand them out without being mobbed.  Now we can take our time knowing that we can just waltz up to the major attractions at any time and get straight on.  Toy Story seems to be the most popular ride so we have another go on that plus all the other major rides.  Indiana Jones gets cancelled part way through due to a storm but by mid-day we have done all we set out to and more and return to camp.  In the afternoon I opt to stay behind whilst Steve joins the Wilsons for a visit to Disney Market Place area.  They return after 10pm as Steve has managed to get into Disney Quest amusement arcade and also Hollywood Studios on my ticket.  The new system is that they take your fingerprint the first time you use your ticket to prevent people swapping them but he just pretended he had picked my card up by mistake and got away with it. 

FORT WILDERNESS 3

FRIDAY 15 AUGUST – I’ve got confused about the morning arrangements and get up at 7.30am for an 8am.  By 8.10am I decide to go off alone as I am the only one who wants to do the ride “Soarin” and this is one of the 2 rides that are particularly difficult to get on.  I arrive just before they open the gates at 8.45am and make my way through to the cordoned off area until they blow they let us pass at 9am.  Fast Track is my first choice and using the single person line I get on straight away.  It’s a brilliant ride where they put you in a test car of 6 people and run it through the test track.  I’m so impressed that I pick up a fast pass to return within the hour.  “Soarin” only has a short queue when I arrive and this is also a good ride and something different.   You are seated in one of 3 rows of suspended seats.  When the flight begins the rows move forwards and upwards so they are aligned vertically.  In front of you is a half rounded screen on which they show a tour over California accompanied by smells, sounds and wind effects at the appropriate moment.  It really does give the impression that you are on a hang glider and I want to go again.  Already so pick up a fast pass but already it is timed for this afternoon.  After my second Test track ride the World Showcase is about to open and I immediately join the queue for the Norwegian ride Maelstrom.  Afterwards I take my time wandering around admiring the features of each country and realise that there is now only Japan that we have not visited.  Back in Future World I pick up a few more rides and shows and also do a test run on a “Segway” before leaving around 4pm.  Just for the fun of it I take the monorail to Magic Kingdom and then through 3 of the resorts before catching a boat back from the Contemporary Resort.  The Wilsons are not back so must be having a good time.  They arrive back around 8pm having found lots for the kids to do in the World Showcase. Daz takes them swimming and they stay in the pool until almost 10pm whilst Claire packs

FORT WILDERNESS CAMPGROUND 4

TUESDAY 15 JULY – Steve gets the results of his wellness blood test and they are all good so he instantly perks up!  Join Mom & Dad for a ride to Shipley to shop at Asda, they won’t have to do this for much longer as a branch is due to open in Keighley.  The afternoon walk with Dad is not quite so good as it is cold and breezy and he finds it hard to breathe.  Claire takes us to her place in the evening so I can use the Internet. Being without my laptop now makes me realise how much I have come to rely on it.  It’s almost the end of the school year so Claire has to shuttle Daniel and Natasha to and from the school disco.  Of course this gives us all an opportunity to sing, “3 more sleeps to go”. 

KEIGHLEY 6, MOM & DADS

WEDNESDAY 16 JULY – It’s a dry morning so I clean all Mom & Dads windows inside and out, of course this prompts and immediate drizzle.  Early afternoon we decide to go out to look for a new arm chair for Mom as Dad has taken to using hers and the sofa bed is not all that comfy for sitting on all day.  We find nothing but manage to pick up my laptop, £45 charge but they have put some personal files back on and at least it now works.  Mom drops us at bowling where Steve joins Nancy and Dave to play a catch up game blind.  Afterwards we return to Rod & Nancy’s and get nostalgic for Mexico whilst eating a taco meal.  Stop up chatting really late as Nancy has taken the day off tomorrow.

WILSDEN

THURSDA 17 JULY – It’s a dull drizzly morning so we make quite a slow start.  Finally decide that on Nancy’s suggestion we will go to Standedge Tunnel a Marsden near Huddersfield.  It the highest, longest and deepest canal tunnel in Britain and after a walk from the village to the tunnel we book onto the 1pm glass roofed barge trip, £4.50.  Our guide tells us of the engineering feat involved in hacking a tunnel through a big hill to enable cargo to be shipped between Lancashire and Yorkshire. It took 17 years to complete amidst many problems including the fact that both ends of the tunnel ended up 37’ apart and needed an “s” bend to join them.   The visitor centre completes the story and we are both impressed.   Rod takes us back to Claire’s in Keighley.  She flies in with Daniel and Natasha and as soon as Daz gets home they leave Natasha in our care and head out to Daniels school leaving BBQ.   We return to Mom & Dads for our last night camped in the lounge

KEIGHLEY, MOM & DADs

FRIDAY 18 JULY – Mom & Dad said to wake them when we left around ¼ to 7 but there’s no waking Dad for anything.  Daz picks us up and we pile into the car for our journey to Manchester airport.  He drops us at Terminal 2 and passes Daniel (10) and Natasha (8) into our care.  We’re flying on the 10.55am US Airways to Philadelphia and have checked in on line and printed our boarding passes.  Other than a couple of windbreaks we only have hand luggage and I reckon they could also go on the plane in the area where they stow pushchairs etc.  At the first security point they study our boarding passes and say they are not real.  I explain that I printed them on line so they phone someone up and then say we are clear to proceed with our hand luggage as is.  Next there is a major line up for the big security check with US Airways passengers diverted to a different line.  Once we decant all our liquid containers into plastic bags and put the laptop into a separate tray we continue.  Steve is asked to open his bag and there they find my jar of Pataks curry paste.  (For some reason we have been unable to buy curry in any form in America and as we are going for 1-year I figure a jar of paste will go a long way).  Unbeknown to me paste is classified as a liquid and being over 100ml must be put into the checked in baggage.  We explain that we are not checking anything in and that we will leave it behind.  Only then do they decide that we cannot take the windbreak on board and must check that in so they take the curry paste and tape it to the windbreak.  We must then wait in a seating area whilst Steve returns to the special check in area for people who have checked in on line!  He takes ages coming back to us and says that he was told the on line boarding pass was no good so he had to wait to have a different one printed out.  They said we would all have to go back but once he explains that someone has already phoned through and cleared us they let him return to the same security line he has already been through.  Now we are in a very small shopping area with a WH Smiths and Boots the Chemist.  It all seems much smaller than I remember so I ask someone in Smiths if this is the only one in this area and they tell me yes.  We queue for ages to make our purchase and then walk through what was obviously the original security area into the departure terminal proper where there is a huge shopping area including a much bigger Smiths and Boots.  At this point they don’t tell you your gate so you have to gamble whether to go left or right and find a seating area.  Whilst seated a guy comes over to Steve and asks if he would like to take part in a survey about Manchester airport efficiency.  He tells Steve that they deliberately don’t give you a departure gate number until the last minute in the hope you will spend longer in the shopping area!  Just as our flight is beginning to board they ask for the Swatman party to go to a member of security staff.  Now they start telling us off for not going to the on line check in desk to have our security interview and why haven’t we got proper boarding cards.  It’s the same lady who shouted at Steve before so I take over and explain it from our point of view.  She aggress that we have been misled and should have been give the correct information on line and finally says that they have no more boarding passes to print for us and we must use the on line paper ones.  She asks about our baggage and electrical good and if any of them have been in for repair recently.  Having got my laptop back from repair on Wednesday and my mobile from unlocking yesterday I should own up but do you think I do?  In all honesty the people who worked on them didn’t know we were going to be flying to America and would have had no reason to sabotage them.  The final unbelievable stop is when we get to the front of the boarding line and the girl who collects the boarding passes says ours are wrong.  Yet again we explain it all but she insists holding us up whilst she finds the stroppy security girl to confirm things.  At last we board the plane and take up our 2 abreast seats.  I have Natasha next to me with Steve and Daniel behind us.  Soon after take off we get drinks service and a meal then settle down to make the most of the in flight personal movies.  The kids both have brief naps but at the time I try to snooze Natasha discovers it is fun to keep popping up the blind to see just how bright and sunny it is outside!  On board they hand out immigration forms for those who don’t have visas plus customs declarations.  We land roughly on time in Philadelphia USA, and head to passport control where we are immediately reprimanded for not having completed forms for Steve & myself who have the visas.   They should have given us the forms on board so now we must fill out cards and then rejoin the line up.  This time we find we have all the correct paperwork but must proceed for secondary interview, as we don’t have a departure ticket.  We went through this in Boston so it was not unexpected.  This time we get a very amenable immigration officer who totally understands what we want to do but has to refer it to a higher officer because of the amount of time spent in America already.  Our 10-year multi entry 6 month stay visa expires in September and he is happy to give us a 6 month entry but concerned at what we will do when we return from Mexico as he isn’t sure they can issue the 3 month entry under the visa waiver scheme at land borders.  We explain that we have less than ½ hour to make our flight connection but procedure must be followed.  Ask if we can collect our windbreak at which point he reads my customs declaration and asks about the tick to say we have food.  Now I have to explain to an American why we should want to bring in Custard Powder, Bisto Gravy powder and why we have a jar or curry attached to our windbreak!  He tells me to leave Steve and the kids, collect the windbreak and he will work on that side of things.  Unsurprisingly the curry jar is smashed and paste is oozing everywhere.  When I get back he has got the all clear for us all and escorts us to the customs area to save us time with his explanation about the food.  That’s all OK but the problem is now the plant we are bringing in – the windbreak!  It’s made of wooden poles and wood is a plant so must be inspected.  At last we are given the all clear so grab our stuff and begin legging it out only to turn a bend to find a long queue for transit passengers to clear security.  We catch one the people walking round and explain that we have little time to make our flight connection.  She goes away and comes back and tells us we must listen for our name to be called amongst others who have connections to make.  Meanwhile I decide to remove the smashed curry jar and end up with cut fingers that bleed and curry everywhere – what a nightmare.  Our names are never called and we reach the front of the line where we must present our individual passports and boarding cards.  The security lady does not want to handle our boarding cards as they have fresh blood on them so takes ages trying to manipulate everything with a pen.  Again we think we can make a run for it but turn a corner to find another line for security.  By now we have just about given up on our flight.  Again we must put electrical goods and liquids into trays but the lady stops the scanner to ask about the windbreak.  This is crazy but I try to stay calm whilst attempting to explain what they are and why we are bringing them.  In the end someone says, ah yes they are to give you shade from the sun so I just say yes.  Well we’ve less than 10 minutes to get to the other side of the terminal but there is always a chance our onward flight is delayed so we begin to leg it.  The kids and I have the trolley bags and Steve has the carry pack and windbreak and leaps ahead.  We now find out that wearing rubber Crocs and trying to run on a rubber surface is impossible as the Crocs keep trying to trip you up an eventually catch Natasha and Daniel out who both take a bit of a tumble.  They are actually OK but I call to Steve that it is not worth risking them hurting themselves and to give up.  He says he will go on ahead on the off chance of holding things for us and we will do a fast walk.  Even fast walking we all keep tripping but manage to stay upright.  Reach the boarding gate and there are no passengers left but they accept our printed boarding passes and tell us to race through. Our seats have already been given to people on stand by so we just take what is left with Steve and the kids together and me in a different row.  An announcement goes out that a family of 3 have just shown up and if 1 person would give up their seat to allow them to board they will be given loads of freebies.  Obviously everyone is desperate to get to Orlando so in the end a mother and child board and leave Dad behind.  How lucky were we to get there ahead of them?  Minutes later we are taking off and gathering our breath.  Land a little early in Orlando and it’s plain sailing with no customs or security just a shuttle train ride to the main terminal building.  Cindi, Ken & Kay are waiting to meet us and what a welcome sight.  The kids comment on how hot it is but in fact the daytime temperature has already dropped to the 70’s as it’s after 6pm.  Catch up on news during the journey to Cypress Cove Resort.  It’s great to be back home and I take the kids to the swimming pool whilst Kay fixes us some hamburgers.  After eating the kids manage a second swim before we return to bed.  Steve & Natasha take the over cab bunk, Daniel the dinette, me on the sofa and Ken & Kay in the bedroom once they get back from the bar.

KISSIMMEE - CYPRESS COVE RESORT

SATURDAY 19 JULY – It’s been a warm night so we have slept with the blinds up and windows open.  I’ve been awake on and off for ages but wait until Daniel stirs.  We get up and I take him on an exploratory walk.  Meet someone and find out it is 7am so we’ve not done too badly.  At the second pool we meet Steve & Natasha coming the other way and learn that Ken & Kay are also up so its back for breakfast.  Whilst Steve & Ken play petanque I take the kids swimming.  Return home for Daniel to make a web page about his holiday, http://daniel-at-florida.wetpaint.com and then Steve can take them swimming.  Unfortunately the swimming pool has no shade and it’s the hottest day for ages here, 100F in the shade, so we have to curtail the pool visits at lunchtime.  I play Poo Head and Golf card games with the kids then we encourage them to have a bit of a rest but to no avail.  Steve takes them off to the air-conditioned games room where they play table tennis.  In the evening we head to the Terrace Lounge for the Trivial Pursuit quiz.  3 contestants try to answer questions with each correct answer getting them $1m.  However if they get a question wrong and someone in the audience answers it correctly then they take their place and their winnings.  There are 10 prizes; mostly free drinks but also a free meal and free nights stay in an apartment.  Daniel manages to become a contestant and answers a couple of questions as do I but the majority are American based or about TV so we don’t have much chance.  By 8.30pm the kids are lagging so the other go off to Cheers bar whilst I take them back for a snack and bed.  The minute their heads touch the pillows they are away with the fairies.

CYPRESS COVE 2

SUNDAY 20 JULY – Ken & Kay are leaving today so get up at 6.30am.  We are all starting to wake so get up for breakfast.  I join Mike & Cindi taking them to the airport ready for their flight up to New York.  On the way back I do a massive grocery shop to order for the kids.  Back I home I begin rearranging Harry and washing bedding etc.  Since we left it has been very humid and the outdoor furniture all has mould spots so I have to scrub all the chairs.  Steve takes the kids swimming but it soon becomes too hot, 120F.  After lunch Natasha and I walk down to the lake to watch the boat race but it’s just a load of old men sailing miniature yachts by remote control and with no wind it is not very exciting.  Natasha tries her luck at the beach and takes a swim in the alligator infested lake.  We the owner of Cypress Cove and his kids are in there so it must be safe although he does get out pretty quickly when a couple of fish bit his bum.  Reckon they must be bottom feeders.  Most of the afternoon we hang around by the van, Natasha doing a jigsaw and Daniel updating his web site.  Late afternoon Steve takes them back to the pool.  Peter from bowling is in the pool at invites us for a drink and snack in the evening.  He is staying in one of the apartments and they are very spacious.  Daniel and Nat stay in the bedroom watching TV whilst we chat in the lounge.  Just after 8pm we notice Natasha is asleep and soon after Daniel says he is tired.  We can easily carry Natasha home but Daniel is another story so we head home.

CYRPESS COVE 3

MONDAY 21 JULY – 6.30am and it is already hot and sunny.  After breakfast on the terrace the kids join us at Petanque and both play really well.  They are struggling a bit with the heat and humidity as we all are so we have a relaxing morning.  After lunch I take them for a walk up to the shopping area, about 1 mile away.  The theory is that they can walk under umbrellas for shade and get used to being out walking in the heat of the day ready for Disney.  It all works very well until Natasha’s shoes start to rub on the way back.  She changes with me but mine are also flip-flops and rub between her toes.  In the end Daniel wears mine, I have Natasha’s and she has Daniels sandals as we hobble home.  It gets cloudy late afternoon so after tea we take a pedalo out on the lake.  The sky is turning really black and we get home just as a big storm starts.  Not only do we get torrential rain, thunder and lightening but also a strong wind picks up.  Steve & I battle to pass the things in to the kids so that we can put the awning away and lucky we did, as it gets worse.  We sit in the air-conditioned motorhome passing the time playing cards.  An hour later the street is like a river but the storm has passed.  A few people have damage to their party tents and many things have been blown around including the pool rules sign that the kids have to fish out of the pool to have a swim.  I’m very happy to make use of the laundry to wash and dry the things that got damp.

CYPRESS COVE 4

TUESDAY 22 JULY – We all have a bit of a lie in but Natasha refuses to get up even for breakfast.  She crawls down in time to join Grandad for petanque whilst Daniel updates his web site. Natasha then comes with me for an hour of aqua exercises in the small pool.  After lunch Cindi calls round and takes us out to Publix store in the car.  Daniel is still determined not to spend money on anything he can get in England but Natasha can’t resist a big bag of gummy bears.  As soon as we have arrived back the heavens open up again but this time it is just a rain storm although it does come and go for a couple of hours.  Natasha goes up to Cindi’s to watch Harry Potter on TV whilst Daniel, well you’ve probably guessed, goes on the computer.  After sausage, egg and chip for tea we head to the Terrace Lounge for a session of Euchre.  We haven’t had time to teach Daniel & Natasha the game so they sit at another table playing Poo Head. 

CYPRESS COVE 5

WEDNESDAY 23 JULY – Wake to an early storm however when it dries up it is still cloudy so we can have a long session at the pool.  I swim and do aqua exercises whilst the kids just play.  Early afternoon Cindi takes us for another drive.  We buy a new licence tag for the motorhome, $46 (£24) year.  Natasha can’t resist buying loads of toys based on “High school musical” whilst Daniel has to try the M&M chocolate variety pack.  Back for another swim followed by a gusty storm so we spend the evening playing cards.

CYPRESS COVE 6

THURSDAY 24 JULY – Steve plays petanque whilst I take the poons swimming.  I do one length breaststroke then one crawl and not only does Natasha stay the course but she swims 50 lengths to my 38!  Late morning we head off for a ride with Cindi.  We’re going to the cinema to see Mama Mia and she has suggested Golden Coral for a buffet lunch.  Unfortunately she cannot remember where they are and we end up driving for almost 2 hours and end up on the northeast side of Orlando.  She doesn’t want to admit defeat but we are all hungry and Natasha has even fallen asleep.  Finally I use a map to direct us to the area where Regal cinema is.  Stopping in traffic we start to smell burning and when she pulls over one of the brakes is smoking big time.  We’re only a couple of block from our destination so once it has cooled down she drives there slowly then phones Mike to come out and pick us up in his car after the cinema.  There are no all you can eat buffet restaurants here so we have to settle for what there is and end up at “Johnny Rockets”, a chain of traditional style diners based on the original and the prices reflect this.  Mooch around the shops to kill time until the 4.30pm. movie starts. We have come in the afternoon to get the matinee prices but stuffed up on that as well as it is only the 1.30 showing that has the $2 pp discount.  We pay $9.95 (£5) for adults and $6.95 (£3.50) for the kids.  Cindi buys a humongous bucket of popcorn for $5.95 (£3) with a free refill.  Mama Mia is brilliant, lots of Abba songs, a great story line and many funny bits.  At the end most people get up to leave but we linger and an extra part comes on with Pierce Brosnan and the other men in jumpsuits, it nearly has us in tears.    It’s after 7pm when we leave and  Mike is waiting for us.   Whilst they are deciding what to do I take the kids into a pet shop and we have to laugh at a huge rack of dog costumes.  Cindi will leave her car here and pick it up tomorrow to take it to a brake place.  We return to the Cove in Mike’s car.  It’s the start of Parrot Head weekend and lots of people have already arrived.  The swimming pool is busy and people are in holiday mood throwing balls and sponges around so Daniel and Natasha are very happy to join in.

CYPRESS COVE 7

FRIDAY 25 JULY – Steve takes the kids to the pool whilst I cut out material to make the new sofa cover.  Late morning we head off with Cindi & Mike first to take Cindi’s car to Just Brakes and then for a buffet lunch at an Indian Restaurant.  The kids just have chips.  At the Indian supermarket I stock up on curry and popadoms and the kids have an ice cream.  Dollar Tree beckons, one of the few stores where everything is $1 (50p).  Daniel can’t resist a few packs of trick magic cards.  Return in time for a swim before tea.  7pm in the bar is crab racing.  You pick one of the painted crabs give it a name and become its trainer.  For the race they stacked in the middle of a round table under a dome and once the dome is removed the first to the edge of the table is the winner.  For the first 10 races the winner gets a 2 for 1 drink voucher then first round winners go in a grand finale for a bigger price.  Natasha overcomes her wariness and is happy to pick them up and put them back in the centre after each race.  After a walk around the camp we return for a late swim and hot tub.

CYPRESS COVE 8

SATURDAY 26 JULY – I begin to make the front seat covers whilst Steve entertains the kids.  Straight after lunch the parrot head parade begins with the decorated golf cards driving through the campground in convoy.  As they pass by you shoot them with water pistols or water bombs.  The people on the carts squirt you back or throw out sweets, beads and Jell-O shots.  Of course the kids love it and get loads of sweets and beads and then walk the parade route collecting sweets that have been left on the roadside.  The rest of the afternoon is spent in the pool in full party mode.  Dozens of inflatable balls are being bounced around and beads and Jell-O shots thrown in.  At one stage they begin a conga and this grows to 203 people long with Daniel at the fore front.  A late storm drives everyone out but initially there is no lightening so the kids play out in the street, which is now like a river.  At the evening trivia quiz Daniel answers a question to go up.  A man next to him has $9m and needs $10 to win so at the start of the next question Daniel buzzes in.  When the quizmaster asks him why he buzzed before hearing the question he says it is to stop the other guy winning.  Everyone cracks up laughing but it is even funnier when he hears the question and answers it correctly. 

CYPRESS COVE 9

SUNDAY 27 JULY – Our last day at the Cove with the kids.  I crack on and finish two front seat covers and 2 new cushion covers whilst Steve keeps the kids entertained.  In the afternoon Steve has a nap whilst I take them for the pool party.  Again there are lots of balls being thrown around, competitions and freebies thrown out.  Natasha stays in so long that Steve has to take over as I am far too wrinkled.  Usual evening storm and by the time it is over Natasha has fallen asleep watching TV.

CYPRESS COVE 10

MONDAY 28 JULY – I get a last load of washing in whilst Steve packs up the van.  We head round to Wal*Mart for a shop.  I’m halfway round with the kids when Steve tracks us down to say there is a problem with the van, as the 12v is not working at all.  Head to the checkout and then decide that we would be better returning to the Cove and going onto electricity whilst we work on the problem.   We’ve only been back about 5 minutes when I read up that by the door there is a 12v battery disconnect button and it seems t this has accidentally been activated.  Once it is turned on everything works fine and we can leave again.  Up in Orlando we cruise along International Drive to Sand Road where we visit the biggest McDonalds in the world.  It’s crazy with noise inside but the kids seem to love it, especially the huge free play area upstairs.  Next we drive up to Bill Fredericks Park on Turkey Lake where I have reserved us a campsite, $15 (£7.50).  It’s only 10 minutes beyond Universal Studios and a very pleasant site with lots of space and plenty of trees for shade.  We walk up to the playground and then the swimming pool but they have just had to close it.  Apparently if they hear thunder they must close the pool until half and hour after the last thunder is heard.  Spend the afternoon in the van planning but make another visit to the playground after tea.

BILL FREDERICK PARK AT TURKEY LAKE

$15 (£7.50) Electric and Water included

TUESDAY 29 JULY – The plan off attack is to drive down to Sea World and then have breakfast once we are in the queue.  That way once the parking lot opens we will get a spot nearer to the entrance.  It takes just 25 minutes to drive the 9 miles there arriving at 8.00am.  People in cars look on enviously whilst we have a leisurely breakfast. At 8.30am the car park opens, $12 (£6) all day for a motorhome.  Once the park opens at 9am we head straight to Kraken the best of the theme park rides.  You hang 5 abreast in a roller coaster that does 3 turns upside down.  Grandad and Natasha are not impressed and both glad to get off.  Journey to Atlantis is a water ride so I sit out whilst the others have a go then its my turn.  A great fun ride with a good soaking en route.  Sea World is more about shows than rides so we get stuck into those beginning with Clyde & Seamore the sea lions.  Steve is delighted to find the Anheuser-Bush hospitality centre where you can have 2 free beers per day plus a beer tasting session that includes snacks.  Shamu killer whale show is excellent and we all get a good drenching sat near the front.  By mid afternoon we have done lots of shows and all the rides so return to the van for a bite to eat and a rest.  Back in the park Daniel & I return to Kraken to queue to go on the front row whilst Steve and Natasha go back to Journey to Atlantis.  There’s a 45-minute wait and we are almost at the front when the ride breaks down.  They keep announcing that it should be short delay and to stay in line but we don’t want to keep the others waiting.  Just decide to give up and are making our way back down the line when it re opens.  Do a quick about turn and soon are on board ready to ride.  It is a totally different experience at the front and much more frightening and seems faster.  Back at our agreed meeting point there is no sign of the others and we are just about to leave when we see them drop down the flume.  Their ride has also had technical difficulties.  We pick up on some of the animal experiences and more shows and having amassed a load of free vouchers for the “wacky wire” fairground attraction Daniel finally succeeds and wins a 4’ high “Sandy” stuffed character from Sponge Bob.  The evening shows are equally good with a grand finale of firework display and film projected onto steam over the lake.  Amazingly the kids are still going strong but on the journey back they both drop off.

TURKEY LAKE 2

WEDNESDAY 30 JULY – We’re all a bit tired so miss the early start so have breakfast before driving to Aquatica.  There’s a long line for parking but the motorhome lane is empty and not only do we sail through but the parking ticket booth is unmanned.  Our combined ticket gets us into the park but we cannot find any seating with shade.  I return to the van for our sun umbrellas but we then find there are now seats.  It’s a new park and they seem to be letting too many people in as it is packed.  Settle onto seats in a café then leave the kids to explore, as we just can’t be bothered waiting in the long lines.  There is a fast version of rapids that you float through at great speed and this is really funny as you can almost ski along the bottom.  The slower version is on a rubber ring and takes you past the dolphin tank.  Late morning there is a storm after which the park quietens down and we get loungers at the man made beach.  With shorter queues on the rides the kids get stuck in and we join them on a few as well.  It’s almost 7pm when we leave and stop at Wal*Mart for the kids to buy Disney souvenirs en route to the campground.

TURKEY LAKE 3

THURSDAY 31 JULY – We are all whacked and no one gets up until after 9am.  The poons got a bit sunburnt yesterday so we have agreed to have a day off from the theme parks.  Steve takes Natasha for an early swim whilst Daniel catches up on his diary.  After a roast lunch we settle down for a nap whilst the kids play cards.  Shortly afterwards I give up and take them for another swim!

TURKEY LAKE 4

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SUNDAY 1 JUNE 2008 – Steve is still up for petanque but my shoulder is aching so I kop out.  At lunchtime I cook up a roast beef dinner and invite Cindi and Mike to join us.  In the afternoon I join them for a ride to the shopping centre.  Cindi lends us an aerial connector for the free on site cable TV so Steve spends the evening watching the box.  It’s a warm evening and we have the air conditioning on but both still end up with headaches.

CYPRESS COVE 6

MONDAY 2 JUNE – Steve follows petanque with a game of miniten.  You are almost spoilt for choice here and we still haven’t taken a boat out on the lake.  I join Cindi for a ride out and she then joins us for lunch.  Half way through the meal I find my headache gets the better of me and spend the afternoon in the air-cooled motorhome.  Steve & I head off for a late swim but the pool is almost too warm for proper swimming.  I return home just at the start of a huge storm.  Thunder, lightening and torrential rain hit with great speed and it was lucky I was home to close everything up.  Steve finally makes a run for it about 1-hour later.

CYPRESS COVE 7

TUESDAY 3 JUNE – I’m feeling much better and whilst Steve is out playing I begin preparing the motorhome for our visitors.  It’s really hot work but maybe I can sweat a bit of fat off!  I finally figure that the swimming pool feels cooler if you wallow in the hot tub first so today manage 40 lengths swimming plus another 10 walking.  Usual Tuesday evening Euchre and we get home just in time to shut up before another storm hits.  Looks like this could be a new pattern but at least it doesn’t spoil the days.  Tonight we are in the over cab bed in readiness for our visitors.

CYPRESS COVE 8

WEDNESDAY 4 JUNE – Neither of us slept well, surprisingly it was reasonably cool but the futon mattress on the bed sure feels different on the thin foam over cab bed.  Both play petanque then spend the rest of the morning relaxing. On the Internet I book us onto an afternoon timeshare presentation to get $120 off the Seaworld + Aquatica tickets that we want for when Daniel and Natasha are here.  I join Cindi for an afternoon drive to Camping World where we finally get the replacement fly screen panel for the bathroom roof. Last August I locked us out of the motorhome and we broke the screen to get to the spare keys in the bathroom.  We continue along highway 192 and end up at a place selling cheap Disney tickets.  This time I agree for us to do a vacation club presentation tomorrow morning to save over $200 (£100) on our Disney tickets.  The biggest downside of having two in one day is that there is a limit to how much free food we can pack away!

CYPRESS COVE 9

THURSDAY 5 JUNE – At 8.30am we are on our way to the Westin timeshare presentation.  As a single lady and a Florida resident Cindi get $75 (£37.50) for joining us.  There’s a buffet style cooked breakfast after which David begins the presentation.  He asks where we are staying and not only do we say Cypress Cove Resort but now mention that it is for naturists.  Of course there are no naturist time-share resorts although one or two have nude beaches.  He trolls on with the show and even has a top man in at the end but we all stick to our guns although it does run in to over 2-hours.  The next one is at 1pm at Liki Tiki Village and we arrive early.  Ron escorts us into the room where there are just a few snacks but on the plus side he realises within minutes that the vacation, points system, package is not for us.  Having done this he whizzes us through the obligatory programme in 35 minutes and sends us on our way as very happy bunnies.  Conclude that we must have been his last appointment for the day and he was free to go home whereas the morning one is probably hanging around for a second victim and figures he has nothing to lose by keeping on at us!  We get a late afternoon storm but without lightening so I make the most of it wander around The Cove in the nude enjoying splashing in the puddle and having the warm rain give me a shower and of course no clothes to dry off!  Our friend Ricky, from Pembroke Pines, arrives just after 6pm and after a quick meal we show him the resort.  It’s almost dusk as we walk the residential area so this time we see it in another light – that of all the residents’ fairy lights.  It’s a gorgeous evening and we spend lots of time bouncing between the hot tub, the cooler swimming pool and lying on the loungers star gazing.

CYPRESS COVE 10

FRIDAY 6 JUNE – Another early start as our Aussie friends Ken & Kay are due to land in Orlando around 8.30am.  The airport is large but well organised with a free cell phone waiting area where people can call you once they have arrived.  We’ve arranged for me to meet Ken & Kay in person but although their flight has landed there is no sign of them.  I’m a bit surprised that the baggage reclaim area is open to the public and the baggage for their flight has all been collected without Ken & Kay showing.  I manage to find they did not make their connection in LA. Heading back to The Cove we get a call from Ken to say the Qantas strike delayed them but they arrive here at 4.30pm.  It’s easier picking them up on our second trip, as we know the routine.  They are both very tired but extremely happy to be here.  After a quick tour of the Cove they can see they will really enjoy it.  Cindi invites us all round for supper before we head to the bar to listen to some of the karaoke.  It’s Pirate theme weekend and many people are already dressing up in costumes. We round of the day with a session in the hot tub and swimming pool.

CYPRESS COVE 11

SATURDAY 7 JUNE – Ricky takes us over to Wal Mart so that Ken & Kay can do a basic shop.  The rest of the morning we sit by the pool before returning for a steak dinner.  Early afternoon we leave Ken & Kay having a snooze whilst we head to the lake to take out one of the free pedal boats.  Steve & Ricky take the front seats whilst I sit in the back on alligator look out.  They do a great job of taking us half way around the lake but no wildlife to be seen.  On the way back we spot the owner Ted with his speedboat.  He has a rubber ring towed behind and is giving the kids a ride.  They often fall off so we can only assume that the huge alligator we saw the other night is friendly.  Afternoon entertainment is the cardboard boat race at the lake.  Boats made from cardboard and tape are expected to paddle around a marked course but the strong wind keeps blowing them back to the beach and the soaked cardboard soon has them sinking.  The evening disco in the Terrace restaurant is great as they play mostly the kind of music we enjoy but at a noise level that also allows you to chat!

CYPRESS COVE 12

SUNDAY 8 JUNE – Ricky heads off early to do more photos around the lake.  Ken joins us for boules then it’s time to relax before a curry lunch.  It’s a record breaking hot day so might as well compound it with a hot curry! 

CYPRESS COVE 13

MONDAY 9 JUNE – Morning petanque joined by Ken.  Steve finished the roof repair and shows Ken a few things about Harry.  In the afternoon Cindi suggests a Wal Mart trip and as it is just the girls we meander around the store.  I spot some upholstery fabric that would look good in the motorhome and take a sample.  It matches perfectly so Cindi takes me back to buy the 10 years at $3 (£1.50) yard and Kay & I spend the rest of the evening working out how we are going to do it.  Kay is a great seamstress and Cindi is also a sewer and offers use of her machine so it will be actions stations tomorrow cutting it out.  Using the Internet I manage to check in for both our flights tomorrow and print out the boarding cards.

CYPRESS COVE 14

TUESDAY 10 JUNE – D-day for us (departure day) so straight after petanque I get together with Kay to cut out the materiel ready for her to sew.  We are travelling extremely light as we have clothes in England so packing takes just a few minutes.  I manage my last 40 laps of the pool before enjoying spaghetti bolognaise that Kay has cooked.  At 2.30pm Cindi arrives to drive us to the airport and then take Ken & Kay shopping.  With only 2 small carry on bags we go straight to security that leads us to the gate and actually end up there 1 hour too soon – and don’t I know about it as Steve whinges that he is being deprived of an extra hour in the sun!  Our US Airways flight to Philadelphia is due to leave at 5.05pm and we board early and then learn why.  There is a really bad storm heading for Orlando and unless we can get everyone boarded, seated and ready for take off quickly there is a chance that the airport will be closed until the storm passes.  We only ever had 1 hour 10 minutes to make the connection from our domestic flight to the International one in Philadelphia so the delay is not good news for us.  It’s frustrating to find that those on board are seated but other passengers arrive late.  Captain announces that the storm is all up the coast and planes are being re route to avoid it so the sky is very busy.  He intends to taxi to the runway and wait it out there.  Luckily we get away before the storm but are already late.  The stewardesses tell us they know that 12 people on board have tight connections and they will do everything to help.  It’s an uneventful flight, no food but soft drinks and just centre screen TV’s.  Arrive 20 minutes before our next flight is due to board.  We have been moved to a seat near the exit so are the first off.  Good job too as Philadelphia airport is huge.  With only hand luggage we can make a run for terminal A but it’s a very long way and we end up fast walking.  Arrive just as they start to board.  The good news is that we don’t have to do any further security or customs formalities.  Actually very slack considering we checked in on line and have only had our bags scanned once at Orlando and no one has really checked our passports.  This plane is quite basic, 2 – 4 – 2 seating and we have the two at the side.  There is very little legroom and the seats hardly recline.  Headphones are £3 and we get a basic meal before bedtime. 

US AIRWAYS FLIGHT FROM PHILADELPHIA TO MANCHESTER

WEDNESDAY 11 JUNE – Land in Manchester ENGLAND on time and the first thing we notice is that the airport toilets don’t flush themselves and the sinks haven’t got magic taps!  Although rain was forecast today it is cool but dry so I don’t look too bad in my summer dress and flip-flops.  We have 1-½ hours to wait for the National Express bus to Hanley, £5.40. Steve manages a nap en route and then we have a chilly 50 minutes wait at Hanley for the connection to Market Drayton, £2.50.  It’s market day today so the bus is packed; no chance of taking up 2 seats to stretch out.  Walk through the market then down to Mum’s and arrive at 1.30pm.  She looks well after her recent hip replacement operation and now manages to get around indoors without any crutches.  Pick up a few warm clothes; grab a shower and a quick lunch before loading us all up into Mum’s car.  During the journey to Wakefield we notice many more foreign vehicles on the road, British vehicles being driven American style and overtaking on the inside and generally much more traffic around.  Petrol prices have now reached around £1.15 litre so not as bad as the 50% increase in America during the last year.  Auntie Pamela is ready for us with lots of food to “put us on” until tonight’s meal.  She has had a knee replacement operation since we saw her last year and already walks much better than before.  A short drive across Wakefield takes us to my cousin Karens, thankfully our last stop of the day having been in constant travel mode since 2.30pm yesterday.  Karen & Chris are both home from work, daughter Sarah is there with her boyfriend Mike and James (Karen’s son) calls in shortly afterwards.  A quick catch up chat then Chris and Karen suggest we join them for a ride down to check on 2 of their rental properties.  Just after we left England last June there were lots of floods and these two adjoining houses had water up to the letterboxes.  It has taken until now to get the renovation work done but on the plus side they are now completely redecorated on the ground floor and have new kitchens.  Return for a Chinese take-away and just before midnights a very welcome lie down in bed to sleep.

WAKEFIELD

THURSDAY 12 JUNE – Everyone is up and about early and I’m awake but Steve is determined to catch up on his sleep.  Everyone leaves for work and I get Steve up around 8.30am.  Today we are off to Keighley and call in at Claire’s works to pick up house keys.  She has been doing the wi-ii fit programme, has lost lots of weight and looks really fit and well.  Although we were planning to pick Daniel and Natasha up from after school club at 3.30pm they are so excited they have asked us to get them straight from school at 3.15am.  Apparently Natasha woke everyone up this morning by singing a song with the words Grandma, Grandad to the tune of ding-dong ding-dong – what a sweetie.  Sandra is not home so we make our way to Steves Mum and Dads new home.  They have moved to a flat on Harewood Rise and are away until tomorrow but have given Claire a key so we can let ourselves in and sleep there overnight.  It’s in a nice spot at the back of the group of flats and looking straight out to fields.  Sandra rings to say she is home so we hop back in the car to drive round.  Keith is with her and we catch up on all their news before a nice chilli con carne lunch.  Sandra has been unwell and not worked for 10 months and now realises how nice it is and hopes for medical retirement.  Keith has been retired for many years so this would also suit him very well.  She has 2 new grandchildren since our last visit so lots to catch up on.  Arrive well early for picking the kids up but we are both very excited.  Parking in Howarth is a nightmare and we end up in a residents permit section so Steve stays with the car.  Natasha comes out of school first, hurtling up to me screaming out Grandma.  Daniel is also excited but as a 10-year old a little more restrained.  They have both grown much taller but having seen them on web cam recently they look much the same.  With our Florida trip just 5 weeks away there is lots to chat about.  At home Claire has left me a pile of her “cast off” clothing so I have a ball selecting items to borrow whilst we are in England.  Claire & Daz return from work and we look through some of their photos of outings during the last year. A quick bite of tea then back up to Mom & Dad’s for our next visitor.  Neil Wilson used to be our GP but has now become a personal friend.  He has recently spent 6 months doing locum work in New Zealand and brings over the photos to show us.  A downside of arriving in England at this time of year is that everyone is taking holidays so we have to make a tight schedule to fit in seeing people before they go away.  This means we only have just over 1-hour spare to chat with Neil but we certainly make the most of it.  Amazing how tempting a return trip to New Zealand is when we see the picture but can’t feel the cold and rain!  Leave to drive down to ten-pin bowling.  Steve gets a game in the league and I get a fun game with a team whose opposition are away on holiday.  As always it’s great to be back with our bowling buddies and I have some great games, 140, 140 and 145 whilst Steve bowls a bit under average but still enjoys himself.  Again it is almost midnight once we get back to Mom’s to crash out on the sofa bed.  Hope the merry go round is going to stop before we both fall off, as I could not keep going at this pace!

KEIGHLEY, MOM & DADS. 

FRIDAY 13 JUNE – After sorting out my prescription at the Doctors we return to Mom & Dad’s.  They are due back from their coach trip to Bournemouth this afternoon but we get a call to say they are delayed due to very heavy traffic.  Drive round to Sandra’s where we have an excellent evening meal and enjoy a good chat with her and Keith.  She has a spare bedroom where we can stay overnight enabling Steve to have a few drinks to relax.

KEIGHLEY, SANDRA’S

SATURDAY 14 JUNE – Back to Mom & Dad’s to catch up with their news.  They are both struggling as bit with mobility but otherwise much the same as when we left last year.  They’ve really settled into their new flat and feel very happy there.  Claire picks us up to go to Haworth school fete.  Daniel has volunteered to be in the stocks and have people throw wet sponges at him so of course we all have to have our 50 penneth having a go.   It goes on from 12 until 3 but even though we have coats on we are chilly so Claire takes us back to Mom & Dads.  Lisa, Mick and Sian call round in the evening. Lisa has stopped smoking and lost weight and looks really well.  Sian is turning into a very attractive young lady and Mick looks much the same.  Pick up a Chinese take-away for supper.

KEIGHLEY, MOM & DADS

SUNDAY 15 JUNE – Natasha is now a member of City of Bradford swimming club, which Claire used to be in.  Sunday morning training is up at Rhodesway baths and the coach used to be a swimming parent when Claire swam so we know him.  Steve volunteers to take Natasha, the 9am start being preferable to the early morning sessions Claire used to do.  I encourage Mom & Dad to do a walk around the block for a bit of exercise before we drive round to Claire’s.  It’s Fathers Day so we are all going to “The Beeches” for their carvery lunch.  Their Yorkshire puddings are excellent and I can’t resist a second helping.  Back to Claire’s for dessert and a quick wi ii fit exhibition.  Mid afternoon we pick Mum up in Wakefield.  She’s had a lovely time in Wakefield and given her hip a good test with all the walking around the shops.  David has invited us for tea so we stop off in Prestwich.  Never know what we are going to find with David on the hair front – this time he has short hair and the makings of a beard.  Donna prepares us a lovely salad and again we catch up on news.  Back at Mum’s we finally unpack properly and go through our mail.  Try for an early night but Mum’s alarm is faulty and I have to get up to try and re set it for her.  In the end after 11pm we have an engineer call us to key in the cancellation calls so it’s late to bed.

MARKET DRAYTON

THURSDAY 15 MAY – Today’s exploration begins north at Boca Raton where the Historical Society museum is tame, the Mizner Park Italian style shopping centre empty and the main highlight of the Boca Raton Resort only open to members and guests.  At least it is a pleasant journey back down the coast along the A1A.  Mathijs is happy when we travel the airport perimeter road to enable us to stand underneath the aircraft as they land.  Hard Rock casino is a massive complex with mini shopping mall, hotel, Hard Rock café plus main casino.  After eating in the food court Mathijs is keen to test his skills.  The poker room is a separate area and has dozens of tables.  It is so popular you have to go on a waiting list to play.  Once he gets a game we explore the shopping area where there is a huge stadium with people limbering up for a pool tournament.  Joining the casino players club gets you $20 worth of slot play and once we have fed this through the machine and taken the winnings we are ready to leave.  Ricky goes back after 10pm to pick up Mathijs who has managed to win $75.

PEMBROKE PINES 9

FRIDAY 16 MAY – The planned trip to the Keys is on hold as Ricky’s air conditioner has broken down again and he needs to wait for the engineer to arrive.  It’s all fixed just after 11am and although we are looking at about 150-mile drive Ricky suggests we set off.  We visited the Keys in 1990 and other than a newer wider road little seems to have changed.  It’s absolutely beautiful and the journey is as much a part as our destination of Key West.  Arrive after about 4-hours and begin at the small picture perfect beach area then the obligatory photo stop at the Southern most point in the USA, only 90 miles from Cuba.  B.O’s Fish Wagon on Caroline Street is a kind of backyard shed surrounded by junk that is used as tables etc.  The food is reasonably priced and the conch fritters are delicious.  A short walk takes us to the busy waterfront area but it’s still not 5pm and way too early for the sunset festivities.  Move the car up the cemetery as the Lonely Plant tells of quirky inscriptions on graves such as “at least I know where he’s sleeping tonight” and “I told you I was sick”.  We wander around but see nothing out of the ordinary other than a large number of old tombs that have been disturbed and look like something out of a horror movie.  It’s a pleasant walk on shady streets past interesting houses to get to Duval Street.  This is the main tourist drag and abounds with bars and art type shops and has a great atmosphere.  At the marina the sunset cruises are all ready to depart and along the boardwalk the street performers are beginning their performances.  We’ve pretty much seen everything we want to so decide to hop in the car and catch the sunset from one of the keys further east.  Unfortunately the clouds prevent us doing so but it does give us chance to arrive home before midnight.

PEMBROKE PINES 10

SATURDAY 17 MAY – Bad news, the air conditioning is not working again.  It’s pretty much an essential in Florida and the main reason people would not live here before it was available.   Late morning we leave Steve watching sport on TV whilst the rest of us go shopping.  In the evening we drive to Dave & Busters where there is supposed to be a Couchsuring meeting.  Only problem is that I have got the wrong day and it was held on Thursday!  Actually they did us a favour, as in the same area there is a “Sweet Tomato” buffet style restaurant.  $9.75 (£5) for the all you can eat salad bar (yes I know I don’t like salad) plus 8 home made soups, baked potatoes, bakery, freshly baked desserts and other delights.

PEMBROKE PINES 11

SUNDAY 18 MAY – Mathijs has booked a hire car but hasn’t received Internet confirmation so we spend ages working out how to trace the transaction.  Ricky takes him to pick it up but they return together later.  At the agency the quoted price is increased because he is only 24 years old and they also add a one-way drop off penalty taking it to $600 (£300) for 4 days.  They have cancelled it and now want to book with another company but the cheap deals must be booked at least 24-hours in advance so he settles for picking one up tomorrow afternoon.  Spend the afternoon by the pool then play poker in the evening.

PEMBROKE PINES 12

MONDAY 19 MAY – Luckily Mathijs manages to get his car but not without paying a small surcharge for extra insurance.  It would appear that all quotes on the Internet are incomplete. Bit of a steep learning curve on his first trip alone.  We spend a leisurely day at home waiting for the air-con men to arrive.  This time they send their 2 top men who seem to make a better job of it.

PEMBROKE PINES 13

TUESDAY 20 MAY – Ricky goes to work in the morning so more for exercise than anything I take a walk up to the shopping mall and end up buying a nice dress.  With the temperature so high it must be the coolest thing to wear.  Ricky is very pleased when the insurance assessor comes to check out his car.  He says that the damage amounts to $1200 so Ricky opts take a cheque for that amount rather than getting it repaired. 

PEMBROKE PINES 14  

WEDNESDAY 21 MAY – Spend most of the morning down at the clothing optional Haulover Beach, which is surprisingly, busy. 

PEMBROKE PINES 15

THURSDAY 22 MAY – When Ricky returns from work we take him out to lunch at the New China Buffet.  There is an excellent range of food including some more unusual dishes such as chickens feet and trips.  We are all so full that we are happy to return and watch movies for the rest of the day.

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FRIDAY 23 MAY – A lazy day at home.  We get a bit of a storm in the afternoon but it is short lived.

PEMBROKE PINES 17

SATURDAY 24 MAY – On the way to the beach Ricky stops at the “Drive thru pharmacy”.  I can’t help but laugh when I see these big tubes running from the building to the terminals at the drive through, do you have to lie underneath with your mouth open and wait for the pills to drop into it or what?  Morning down at Haulover beach.  The clothing optional area is packed but either side the beach is deserted!  Ricky takes us out for an early supper at a different Sweet Tomatoes and it is equally good.  Return just a huge storm begins.  There seems to be a number of storms converging and we get different types of lightening and torrential rain.

PEMBROKE PINES 18

SUNDAY 25 MAY – Steve gets up early to watch the Grand Prix and is rewarding with a win for Britain.  This means we don’t set off until around 10.30am but the roads are still very quiet once we get beyond the suburbs and onto the 27.  The swampy area gives way to Lake Okeechobee but due to the drought it is completely dry. Further north there are other lakes and no doubt the water is used for irrigation as we see fields of cattle and orange plantations.  At Sebring the locals are out enjoying the holiday weekend and have driven into the low level lake to sit in the water and have a picnic.  Our Globalfreeloaders hosts are Jerri and Bob who live in a retirement village mobile home.  It’s hard to tell it’s a mobile home as it is double width and huge with 3 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms, bigger than many a house in England.  There is a parking area for motorhomes and they lead us there in their golf cart.  After a tour through the estate they show us our room and we settle in and get to know them.  In the evening Jerri takes me for a golf cart tour of the neighbourhood which is fun.

SEBRING

MONDAY 26 MAY – It’s Memorial Day holiday here, rather like our Remembrance Day.  Make a leisurely start with a late bacon sandwich breakfast.  Jerri & Bob have invited us to join them at the clubhouse for an afternoon BBQ.  Darlene takes control and does a speech and arranges the 1-minute silence at 3pm.  Spend the rest of the day relaxing at home and chatting with our hosts.  Jerri is a very artistic person and has used some original ideas to decorate their home with a beach theme so I pick up lots of ideas.

SEBRING 2

TUESDAY 27 MAY – Our next stop is the shopping centre at Poinciana just south of Orlando.  This is obviously a rapidly developing area and the shopping centre already has a Wal*Mart, 2 other grocery stores, many other small stores and a few restaurants.  Just about 1-mile further on is Cypress Cove naturist resort.  We are booked to stay there for 2 months and have friends flying in from Australia a week on Friday to stay in Harry for the 5 weeks whilst we visit England.  They have a special offer on with 3 months trial membership at $159 (£80) per couple and as a member you get a monthly camping rate of just $338 (£170) plus electric.  We are allocated a site at 65 Otter Lane and it’s really nice.  A short walk to a toilet block and whilst near all the sporting facilities it is a quiet and shady spot.  Set out to explore the resort only to be amazed by just how many permanent residents there are.  We walk over 1 mile around a loop bounded by fixed homes.  Excellent leisure facilities include a rectangular swimming pool, a fancy shaped pool with a waterfall, 2 hot tubs, gym, beauty salon and a lake for fishing, boating or swimming – if you are faster than the alligators.  Tennis courts, basketball net, petanque courts and golf also offer sports opportunities and everything has been so well thought out that there are water fountains and showers wherever you may need them. There is a weekly programme of events so we join the evening Euchre card game at The Terrace and get to know a few people.

CYPRESS COVE

WEDNESDAY 28 MAY – 9am finds us at the petanque court where we have an enjoyable couple of games and get to know more people.  Steve follows it with a round of golf whilst I go home to make use of the free wi-fi.  Just time for a pre lunch dip in the pool where we return for most of the afternoon.  I make an effort and put in 30 length of the shaped pool which is over 20m long.  Although the days are hot there is usually a breeze and at night the temperature drops to a very comfortable level.  So much so that we haven’t even felt a need to run the air conditioner and only occasionally use the fan.

CYPRESS COVE 2

THURSDAY 29 MAY – After our morning petanque session we set out to walk to the shopping centre.  Notice that there is a bus stop directly outside the resort so that will be handy.  It’s an easy flat walk to the shops and we explore everywhere and find everything we may need however the walk back is considerably more tiring in the heat.  Spend the afternoon by the pool and then an evening card session of Euchre.

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FRIDAY 30 MAY – Morning petanque then a bit of planning.  Early afternoon petanque players Judy & Bob pick us up for a ride out.  They come from New York but are in the process of moving down here permanently.  Begin at the Osceola shopping mall where we are hoping to be picked on by time share touts offering cheap Disney tickets.  It’s a very poor mall for shops and they don’t have one time-share stand.  Judy drives us to a nearby tourist office that does but to save a total of $80 you have to endure up to 3-hours of hard sell and make your own way to the hotel which is miles away.  Judy gives us a nice tour around Kissimmee including the famous “monument to the states” where someone from each state donated a piece of rock from that area.  It has now been extended to include rocks from other countries including England.  Over at St Cloud we go for an early supper at Crabby Bill’s restaurant on the lake.  The fish is excellent and Steve is delighted with the happy hour beer at $1 (50p) pint.  Back at “The Cove” there is a dive in movie – no not a spelling mistake as the movie is held at the swimming pool.  We opt for one of the sun loungers but many youngsters spend the whole time in the water.  Free popcorn is served as we enjoy “National Treasure 2”.

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SATURDAY 31 MAY – Cindi from petanque calls round, introduces her partner Mike and asks if we would like to join them for a ride over to Cape Canaveral to watch the shuttle launch.  We are delighted as we were keen to see it but not to drive Harry over there.  As soon as we have finished petanque we head off and arrive in the area just after 12.00.  Already Jetty Park is full but we get an excellent beach spot at the west end of Cape Canaveral, directly opposite the shuttle launch pad.  It was 100F when we set out and a really hot afternoon so sitting in the shallow water on the sun loungers is the perfect way to cool off, even though the water is like a warm bath.  As the afternoon progresses more and more people arrive and boats line up between the NASA centre and us.  Nearing 5pm we have the radio on for the countdown and it’s quite strange to hear them talking about the rockets firing up and being able to see the flames with our bare eyes.  The lift of seems slow and graceful and Steve with the binoculars gives us a running commentary.  As the shuttle rises we hear a bit of a boom but not as loud as we anticipated and certainly no feeling of the earth trembling as we had been led to expect.  It’s still a very moving experience watching Discovery head off at over 1000mph.  Unsurprisingly there are traffic jams heading back to Orlando but it’s not a bad run back and well worth the trip out. CYPRESS COVE 5