FRIDAY 15 MAY – Our final day at sea and last chance for on board activities.  We have had a rough nights sailing and it is still a bit choppy but I am feeling much better and ready for action.  Steve is finally on a winning trivia team (they have been up as tie breakers many times but lost).  I don’t like being in the same team as him as one of the guys takes it too seriously.  British immigration officers have boarded the ship and throughout the day we take turns to clear customs.  Apparently there will be nothing more at Harwich so you can take in virtually anything on the basis that you are limited by how much you can carry.  Our final formal night and Steve must have lost a bit of weight as his trousers now fit!  Alan & Ika are absent and we are upset when she arrives and tells us Alan is ill with a lung infection and has been on a drip.  Judging by the number of “alpha” calls this sailing we have had a lot of illnesses on board and at least one death.  Guess this is a reflection on the age of the passengers and the duration of the cruise.  The “Soul Sensation” show is excellent, all our kind of music.  This is followed by the talent show with some great singers plus a comedian.

JEWEL OF THE SEAS 12 – AT SEA VIGO TO CHERBOURG

 

SATURDAY 16 MAY – Cherbourg FRANCE, our final port of call.  It is 15C out so we rug up with our coats on and catch the free shuttle into town.  Could easily have walked as it turns out to be very close.  It is a typical French harbour town but what we find curious is a whole street full of Turkish kebab restaurants!  Numerous motorhomes are free camping along the quay but none are British.  Back on board late morning we decide on a sauna and Turkish bath to warm up.  There are separate ones for men and ladies and I am the only one in the ladies.  I’m surprised to find that Steve is out before me but not when he tells me there was a gay guy in the men’s playing with himself whilst looking across at him – maybe he saw Steve in The Quest and took a fancy to him!  It is Steve’s turn to spend the afternoon in bed so I go along to the timed sudoku challenge but must be slipping as I only come in second.  It suddenly dawns on me that we need to be packed up before dinner, as the suitcases must be put out for collection.  We’ve bought duty free cigarettes and won 4 bags as prizes so getting everything into the bags is a nightmare.  It is good to see Alan at the dinner table for our last meal.  Apparently there is a virus going around on the ship and I suspect that I am starting with it as I have similar symptoms.  We’ve been really lucky with our dinner companions as although we are a mixed age group from different walks of live everyone has been friendly and many of us have socialised together.  Our last show is British magician “Jamie Allan” who does some amazing sleight of hand card stunts.  A handful of people gather for the late night “Family Feud”, like Family Fortunes and we both end up on teams but luckily only win runners up key rings.  Looking back over the trip we are really glad we have travelled this way, found Bermuda the most interesting port of call, like everyone on our table we felt the food was lacking and that in general cuts were being made and noticed.  Still for what we paid this is more of an observation than complaint.

JEWEL OF THE SEAS 13. CHERBOURG

 

SUNDAY 17 MAY – We wake up in Harwich ENGLAND where disembarkation is extremely efficient and the railway station is directly beside the ship.  I’ve got a great deal with tickets from www.raileasy.co.uk paying £19 all the way to Stoke whilst people in the ticket line in front of me pay £49 just to London.  From Harwich the line is closed on Sundays for maintenance so we are bussed to another station.  It is really funny listening to the Americans pointing out features of England – the cars on the wrong site, the tiny roads, old houses, greenery etc.  Pass through a town called Stratford and one lady shouts out to ask if it is where Shakespeare is from!  On the train to London it turns out she also thinks that Liverpool Street Station is actually Liverpool – hope she wasn’t planning on doing the Beatles attractions there.  Laden with bags it is hard work picking up the two tubes to get us to Euston where we wait about 1-hour for our onwards Virgin train.  The early morning rain has ceased and the weather is picking up a bit but it is still cold.  Arrive in Stoke on Trent at ¼ to 2 (less than 6 hours after leaving ship) and are delighted that Netty & Ian are there to meet us.  They both look really well and very happy in their newly married life.  Mum also looks well and is very pleased to see us.  After catching up on news it is difficult to know what to do next with 5 bags to unpack, 2 weeks worth of laundry to tackle, 1 years worth of mail and family and friends to contact.  Mum cooks us a chicken tikka dinner and it is tastier than most of the food on the ship.  Call round to Netty's in the evening to begin tackling the Russian visa challenge but with numerous setbacks including the fact they have crossed Steve’s and my details on the invitation letter.  I have very bad nights sleep.   My asthma is bad; I seem to have a chest infection, blocked nose and a chill.  I must look really funny in bed with a woolly hat on, 2 T-shirts, socks and in addition to the normal bedding an extra bedspread, dressing gown and blanket.  Blame it all on the air conditioning on the ship.

MARKET DRAYTON   

 

MONDAY 18 MAY – I have a really bad night and get up at 6am.  By the time the others get up it is pouring with rain and I’m still not feeling well.  We must sort out our Russia visa so Steve drives us up to the library to use the Internet.   Way to Russia quickly sort out the invitation problem and will E-mail new ones (good job too as they charged us $55 for the service).  I’m whacked when we get back and retire to bed for the afternoon.

MARKET DRAYTON 2

 

TUESDAY 19 MAY – I sleep better and get up at 8.30am to enjoy my first bath in months, enhanced with my favourite Avon “skin so soft” bath oil.  We spend the morning at the library continuing the visa application.  The new invitation arrives but I am frustrated to find “Way to Russia” direct me to “Real Russia Ltd” for application assistance.  Way to Russia charge £107.80 each for the visa including assistance but for £115.30 they would have included the invitation and this would have been a cheaper and quicker option.  Oh well, at least we can now complete and get the application in the post.  So far our cheap Russia holiday that started with £2 flights has already cost over £500 and we haven’t even set off!  If you have ever seen the movie “Terminal Man” about Tom Hanks ending up living at an airport you will understand that we are beginning to feel like “Library Couple”!  Once we get back I again feel worse and by mid afternoon am struggling to breath.  I’m sure I haven’t got swine flu but am not keen to race to the Docs but phone for advice.  They say I must phone the NHS help line for a consultation.  They are extremely thorough and more concerned about the virus on the ship but insist I must see as Doctor.  At the surgery Doctor Dean says I have lots of “grott” on my lungs and need penicillin but that everything else will clear up in time.  Bobby & Kat call round in the evening and we have a good chat. 

MARKET DRAYTON 3

 

WEDNESDAY 20 MAY – I’m feeling considerably better but Steve is now barking (more than normal) and wheezing.  We’re terrified of giving anything to Mum so have been trying to keep out of her way and frequently squirt with antibacterial spray.  She’s off up town to meet her mates at the Tudor House.  Steve gets up and sets to work on some jobs for Mum and U join in but we are both too weak to do much.  In the afternoon we go over to Mark & Netty’s in Dawley.  Lauren and Aidan arrive just ahead of us, Marks girls are already there and Netty has her granddaughter Amber for the evening so it is quite a house full.  Kevin & Sandra come straight from work and Stacey’s getting back from work completes the party.  It is pretty chaotic but nice to get a chance to see everyone again.  Mid evening we get a text from Claire.  Natasha has had an accident doing karate and is at hospital having stitches for a head wound.   Steve is going downhill fast so I end up driving back.  Claire tells us Natasha has needed 5 stitches but was very brave and now at home sleeping. 

MARKET DRAYTON 4

 

THURSDAY 21 MAY – I answer the door at 20 to 10 as Mum is expecting a pupil.  An elderly couple are standing there with a sheet in their hand and I ask if they are here for the lesson with Mum and am just about to ask them in when I hear Mum coming through.  It turns out they are Jehovah’s witnesses and must have thought I was offering them the chance to give Mum as lesson.  I’ve spent the last 3 days unpacking and sorting our stuff but must now pack for our visit to Yorkshire.  In the afternoon I drive Mum over to the Princess Royal hospital for an X-ray.  The specialist says that they didn’t replace the hip socket but he doesn’t consider it is needed and he believes her limp and pain is now down to a back problem but that is for her Doctor to figure. 

MARKET DRAYTON 5

 

FRIDAY 22 MAY – We are off to Yorkshire to day and Steve begins driving but gets tired on the motorway so I take over.  At Stanley Middleton’s we pick up fresh pies for lunch to take to Claire’s where she meets us during her lunch hour.  Steve spends the afternoon in bed but I have to pick up the kids at 3.30pm.  Mum joins we for the drive over to Howarth where Daniel arrives on the school bus and Daz brings Natasha to us.  Her head looks pretty good with only a small covering over the stitches and no other bruising.  Daniel looks very grown up in his Halifax Grammar School uniform.  I cook tea for all of us after which Claire takes Mum up to Mom & Dads to spend the night.  We are keeping our distance, as Mom doesn’t want us to give Dad our colds, as he is not too well himself. 

KEIGHLEY

 

SATURDAY 23 MAY – We’ve slept reasonably well in Claire’s bed but must come up with a better sleeping plan for Claire when we come back to stay for longer.  The kid’s rooms are really small but we talk about Daniel moving into the smallest room and Natasha into his old room where w may be able to get an extra bed.  We pick up Mum, who has had a lovely evening, and drive over to Wakefield to drop her at Auntie Pamela’s.  Onwards to Hull where we first stop to shop at Asda.  John meets us at the gate to YSS (Yorkshire Sun Society) and leads us to the new visitors caravan.  The old one got wrecked in the floods and new one used to belong to a member.  They have done a nice job making it look homely inside and we even have all new bedding, pink for Natasha and blue for Daniel.  Apart from it not having mains electric and a TV it seems nicer than the old caravan.  Tonight is the tramps ball and the kids enjoy getting dressed up then ripping their clothes and covering them in mud.  The evening begins with a fish and chip supper, £3, or sausage and chips for the kids.  There are some really funny tramps costumes and some people really get into the spirit of it curling up on the floor in boxes.  There are prizes for the best male, best female and extra one for the kids as Daniel and Natasha are the only entrants and win a box of jelly babies.   It is 10.30pm by the time we get home to bed but there is a problem with the battery so we can’t have the lights on and go straight to bed. 

YSS 1

£50 club caravan, £7 per couple per day visitor fees, £5 bedding pack

 

SUNDAY 24 MAY – We’ve all been cold in the night so are happy to get up and find it is a hot and sunny morning.  We enter the petanque competition with Natasha and I in one team and Daniel and Steve in the other.  Nat & I are consistently bad and don’t even get a point in either of our two games.  Steve & Daniel do really well and lose 15 – 14 in the final.  Sheila is so impressed with Daniel’s performance that she gives him her prize of a free drink voucher.  Spend much of the afternoon at the swimming pool.  Natasha gradually manages to worm her way further in but as it is only chest high we trust her not to wet her stitches.  The evening entertainment is skittles and Daniel enters us as “The Randomers”.  Natasha is the star of the team as the only one ever to knock over all 9 pins but even that is not enough to get us to the final.  Throughout the day the kids have enjoyed looking at the magazine adverts on the club walls, the product name has been cut out and this is the base of the competition.  The last 3 questions are in the evening in the form of tunes being played and you have to guess the advert. Daniel & Natasha draw but Daniel wins the tie breaker of how many calories in a slice of wholemeal bread and this time wins a box of liquorice all sorts.  Steve stays up watching TV in the lounge but has a big problem coming home as it is very dark and he spends half an hour being lost in the forest.  That’s all he needs as he still has a cold and fells cold and shivery but at least we have extra duvets tonight.

YSS 2

 

MONDAY 25 MAY – Bank holiday Monday and surprisingly the weather is nice.  We spend a lot of time at the pool and the kids enjoy being able to sit in the Jacuzzi.  Late afternoon the weather changes and it rains in the evening. 

YSS 3

 

TUESDAY 26 MAY – We are all getting very lazy and don’t get up until 10am.  At North Point centre we go to the clinic to get Natasha’s stitches removed.  She is very brave and the nurse comments on what an excellent job was done on the stitching.  North Point is a good shopping centre so we stock up on food before returning for lunch.  As Natasha can now go in the pool properly we spend the whole afternoon up there.  Mark arrives with his children Ethan, 10, and Bethany, 8, so it is great for the kids to have someone to play with.   Andy & Chris call for a chat in the evening as they are going away.  Spend the evening watching TV in the clubhouse.

YSS 4

 

WEDNESDAY 27 MAY – It is a bit of a miserable morning so we decide to have a ride out to Hornsea and begin at the Freeport factory-shopping outlet.  The kids are most interested in the amusement arcade and have had so much fun they go in another one when we get to Hornsea seafront.  It’s really cold and blustery and with Steve still not feeling well we return for lunch.  The kids spend all afternoon in the swimming pool.

YSS 5

 

THURSDAY 28 MAY – We all spend the morning at the pool and I put in 50 lengths.  In the afternoon we leave Steve behind and go for a ride to visit John & Maureen in their bungalow in Wawne and then to North Point shopping centre.  Britain’s got talent has become our addictive TV viewing this week.

YSS 6

 

FRIDAY 29 MAY – It is a glorious day so we have an early swim.  My false nails are growing out and I have a heck of a job getting them off after soaking them in remover – never again.  I attempt to clean Mums car in the afternoon but the water keeps going off and it ends up looking worse than before I started.  Plenty of time for sitting out sunbathing in the afternoon.

YSS 7

 

SATURDAY 30 MAY – We drive to Auntie Pamela’s in Wakefield arriving around 11pm.  Whilst eating an early lunch we catch up on their news then take Mum with us to Bradford to rendezvous with Claire.  She is going to the Midlands to Aidans birthday party, taking Natasha with her and dropping Mum at home.  Daniel has opted to come back with us to Keighley.  It is another lovely day so I get loads of washing done.  Late afternoon we receive the Tesco grocery delivery that Claire ordered on line – very efficient. 

KEIGHLEY

 

SUNDAY 31 MAY – We drive round to visit Mom & Dad and find them both well.  There’s a car boot sale at Bracken Bank community centre and we walk down to it but other than enjoying the exercise it wasn’t worth it with only 2 stalls.  Claire arrives to pick up Daniel but we stay on for lunch and for me to defrost their freezer.  Early afternoon we go to town to check out divan beds with drawers.  I’ve seen some good deals on line but now realise that the quality of the drawers varies and you need to see them.  Whilst Claire takes Natasha swimming Steve and I set about clearing out Natasha’s room ready for decorating.  In between all this I make use of the Internet to book our bus, insurance and other things ready for Russia.  Not sure we could keep up this pace for too long.

KEIGHLEY 2

200905

 

FRIDAY 1 MAY 2009 – The next stage of the motorhome sale is for Keith to get a Texas safety inspection test.  Luckily there is a garage a couple of miles away and they do it instantly.  It cost around $40 (£28) and Harry passes with no problems.  The final hurdle is registration at the county offices.  In Harris County this is at the courthouse and the appropriate office has a huge queue.  I nip to the ladies toilet and am amazed to find it a single room complete with armchair – Louise declines my invitation to come in and wait!  They only take cash for vehicle transfers so I have to draw money from my ATM to give Keith enough for the fees.  At the desk the lady begins putting the info on the computer and once Keith has signed a form to show he has no social security number everything can be completed.  Keith is presented with a total bill for vehicle registration, number plates, taxes and transfer fees etc and that completes the deal.  Returning to the campground Tom Tom gets us a little lost and we end up driving through the attractive old town of Spring.  Louise is a hairdresser and gives me a super haircut and does my make up for our night out.  We drive to Tim’s, our host whom we previously stayed with.  Since we saw him he has done a hike into the Grand Canyon and a ski trip so we enjoy looking at his photos.  Goode Company BBQ (www.goodecompany.com) is our choice for a meal and it is as good as last time.  They serve lots of smoked meats in a canteen like setting with outdoor tables and we all enjoy our food.  After dropping Tim off we head to a nightclub in the hope of surprising Wayne & Sylvia and other HHH members who are going there.  The surprise is on us, as they don’t show up.  In fact the whole thing is a bit of a waste of time as hardly anyone is there and even when we leave just before midnight it is still not very lively. 

HOUSTON 3, SPRING OAKS

 

SATURDAY 2 MAY – Steve & I get up early to pack our things.  Spend a little time reviewing things with Keith & Louise.  After lunch we head off to check out the “Orange Show”.  It is one of Houston’s quirkier attractions but a bit of a let down.  Many years ago a guy bought the land opposite his house with the intention of creating a show to encourage people to eat more oranges.  He bought up anything old and cheap to build a sort of theatre with tractor seats and other oddities.  Unfortunately it hasn’t quite worked out but is preserved because it is a foundation connection to the art car festival.  We try to visit Heritage Park in the centre but again Tom Tom fails us and we miss the exit and need to do another complete circuit of the city to get back but decline and return home – or should I say to Keith & Louise’s motorhome.  After a final pack up we leave Harry for the last time to drive to China Bear restaurant to meet Ineke, Jos and their girls.  The buffet is excellent and good practice for the cruise.  It is only10 months since they emigrated from Holland but Mara 11 and Jona 8 are now speaking really good English, if only we could learn half as much as they as quickly I would be delighted.  When it is time to leave we transfer the luggage and wish Keith & Louise well for the travels.  No sooner have we arrived back at Ineke’s than I realise we have left Steve’s suit hanging up in Keith’s car.  Jos drives Steve over to the campground to retrieve it and when they get back they tell us that Keith & Louise were sat down watching “Last of the summer wine” on TV.  Mara has moved out to share Jona’s bedroom giving us a double bed for the night so we settle down to our first night of being homeless!

SPRING

 

SUNDAY 3 MAY – Jos hated his work here as a teacher so packed it in and now has 3 part time jobs.  Today he is doing a shift at Home Depot and heads off on his motorhome bike straight after breakfast.  Ineke suggests we might like to go with them to the local church “The Loft” (www.loftchurch.com).  It is not like anything we have ever been to before.  The location is more like a theatre with a coffee shop in the foyer and free coffee if you only want the basic stuff.  You are encouraged to takes your drinks into the auditorium with a huge stage set up like a concert.  Everyone is dressed very casually including the band and the pastor who arrives in jeans.  He makes a really funny introductory speech and then the band play a rock song with religious overtones.  The service continues with the theme about God offering unlimited Grace when we do things wrong.  He illustrates the point with a story of his own life and how as a San Diego city boy he struggled with the outdoors in the army and got addicted to pornography whilst training to be a pastor.  We really enjoy it and think that if more places were like this then probably far more people would go to church.  Ineke takes us back via the best 99c (70p) store we have ever been to, they even sell fresh fruit and veg.  I can’t resist some chunky jewellery and a few other things – in fact 17 items in all!  Ineke was bitten by a fire ant recently and her foot has swollen up so she decides to shelve the afternoon trip, which also suits us fine.  Shortly after Jos returns from work around 10pm we head to bed for Steve to try and sleep and me to clock watch.

SPRING 2

 

MONDAY 4 MAY – Ineke gives us a call at 5am and half an hour later is driving us to Houston Bush Intercontinental airport.  We’ve got on really well with the family and hope our paths cross again in the future.  We’ve done on line check in so after being dropped off we only have to find a place to leave the 1 bag that we couldn’t avoid checking in.  Continental now charge $15 (£12) for the first bag but allow 2 pieces of carry on and we have 5 items.  This is probably the largest amount of luggage we have ever travelled with and it is most uncomfortable.  We also don’t look the way we normally do, Steve has his suit on and I am wearing jeans and trainers in order to wear our bulkiest and heaviest things.  Our flight leaves at 7.30am.  2 hours later we land in Miami, 10.30am local time.  We need to get to the cruise port and can take the RCI shuttle at $15.80 each, Super Shuttle at $15 each or a taxi for $24.  No contest especially as we manage to share a cab with another couple.  As soon as we get out of the cab our bags are taken from us to be sent to our cabin.  Check in for the cruise is speedy and by noon we are enjoying our first buffet meal aboard the Royal Caribbean International ship Jewel of the seas.  It is strange to suddenly hear so many British accents.  Quite a few people have done this as a back-to-back cruise following 2 weeks cruise from Miami through the Panama Canal whilst others came over on the Queen Mary 2 to New York.  At 1pm we can go to our cabin, 4014, where we are impressed by its spaciousness including a sofa in a small lounge area.  The daily list of activities is quickly studied and priorities highlighted in true Swatour style!  2pm is a mingle and meet welcome meeting with a quiz that has you hunting places for answers and thus discovering what they offer on board.  You can get a free make up at the shop so I book one for before the first formal meal.  Next we do a full exploration of the ship, which seems huge. It has a large out door pool with 2 hot tubs, a beautiful solarium with pool and a smaller pool on the top deck.  There’s a cinema, games room and plenty of other things to keep us occupied.  To lure people to the beauty salon area they hold a raffle offering prizes for many of the different treatments they offer.  We can’t hear what the last offering is but hear our cabin number and Steve’s name called out.  Turns out he has won the “exotic aromaspa seaweed wrap” valued at $195 (£140).  He asks if I can take it instead and I am delighted to find it is for the seaweed body mask followed by a head and foot massage.  The prize must be taken on land days so I book it for after our day in Bermuda.  Are we off to a good start or what?  The Turkish bath and sauna are free to use and I hop on their scales to weigh in at 146 lbs.  The lifeboat drill takes place then at 5.30pm we set sail.  Leaving Miami is lovely as we head out along a channel past South Beach.  We find a small restaurant called “Seaview Café” and can’t resist having fish & chips and onion rings to “put us on”.  Our baggage still hasn’t been delivered but our cabin steward Tetiana from Ukraine assures us all the bags are on board and we will get ours soon.  We are very happy to receive them before going out for the evening as Steve feels over dressed and I feel under dressed.  We take up the offer of free liqueur sampling before the show that introduces the entertainment staff with a brief comedy act.  We’ve changed to 6pm early dining from tomorrow onwards but tonight dinner for us is at 8.30pm.  We are at a table of 10 with good company.  Jim & Jackie are next to us and we have a great chat.  I control myself and only have 2 desserts.  Last event of the evening for us is the trivia quiz and our team are joint winners but lose the tiebreaker.  Clocks go forward another hour tonight so with 2 time changes today we head to bed at midnight.

ROYAL CARRIBEAN INTERNATIONAL, JEWEL OF THE SEAS 1

SAILING FROM MIAMI TOWARDS BERMUDA

 

TUESDAY 5 MAY – We have a really good sleep.  I manage to show considerably more restraint than Steve at breakfast as he has 4 different lots.  At 10am we are in the cinema watching Wall E.  It is a Disney cartoon having a pop at the Americans style of living the theme being that they have had to leave earth to allow robots to clean up the trash whilst living in space and becoming totally sedentary and obese.  It has its moments but could be better and at one point I am the only person in our row that isn’t sleeping.  Sea life must make you sleepy as we return to our cabin for a nap but get disturbed by announcements; it is starting to feel like “Hi Di Hi”.  After lunch I sit by the pool whilst Steve goes to the art auction, mainly for the free champagne.  Swimming in the pool is rather strange as it is salt water and you get waves as the ship rocks.  I take up my free make up offer before getting changed for our first formal night.  This begins in the Safari Lounge with a cocktail party and introduction to the Captain and crew.  The Captain tells us there are just over 2000 passengers on board, 1100 have sailed with RCI before and come from 55 countries.  He also informs us that the crew come from 65 different countries.  In the dining room we are seated at a table of 12 and end up between 2 Yorkshire couples - Alan & Ike who have stayed on from the Panama cruise and Pat & Dave who came over on the Queen Mary 2.   From Scotland Lyn is on board with her Mum Margaret.  Alan & Christa are from Canada, and Louisa & Francois from Belgium.  Our waiter is Clifford from India and drinks waitress Benen from Turkey.  I lack restraint and end up ordering 3 desserts to everyone’s amazement.  Funny how others order 2 or 3 starters or main courses without anyone noticing but my dessert order creates quite a stir.   

RCI JEWEL OF THE SEAS 2

SAILING FROM MIAMI TOWARDS BERMUDA

 

WEDNESDAY 6 MAY – After breakfast we play a round of mini golf before settling down to sunbathe.  Late afternoon we sight land as we approach the islands of BERMUDA.  The ocean here is a most beautiful inky blue and the island looks really attractive.    It is around 4pm when we are allowed off ship into the attractive Docklands area.  At the tourist information we gather maps and guide books and begin our walk around.  It is already cold and windy and when it begins to rain we opt to return to the ship.  The evening show is a Frankie Valli and the Four Seasons tribute band called “The unexpected boys” and they are excellent.  After that we go to the disco for Motown hour. 

RCI JEWEL OF THE SEAS 3

BERMUDA

 

THURSDAY 7 MAY – We leave the ship to give us time to explore the docklands before catching the ferry to St George.  We’ve bought an all day bus and ferry pass for $12 (£8) but don’t have long enough to make the best use of it.  St George is really pretty.  There is no natural fresh water supply on the island so all the houses collect rainwater and store it in an underground tank.  To purify the water the roofs are white lime washed and this looks really pretty off set by pastel coloured walls.  Virtually every house is a different colour, which would look rather twee in England but works very well here.  We wander around the town with cobbled and narrow streets admiring the buildings.  There are lot of narrow alleys inviting exploration and we are happy to get lost whilst making our way to the unfinished church.  It takes almost an hour for us to go by bus to Hamilton and the journey is very interesting giving us chance to see more of the island.  Hamilton is the capital and the largest (in fact only) city.  Here we see businessmen in suits with Bermuda shorts and long socks.  In the City Hall there is a free art museum with a special display of painted motorcycles.  The cathedral looks rather strange being of British design but surrounded by palm trees.  We visit many nice parks and buildings but can’t linger long and hop on the South Road bus after an hour.  This time we get an overview of many fantastic pink beaches back by the beautiful blue ocean.  At the Docklands we visit the Snorkel Beach before boarding ship.  At 3.30pm I take the spa treatment Steve won.  Alexandria from Serbia is my beautician and she really wants to pick my brains about our travels doing things on the cheap.  She’s only 37 but her husband died a couple of year ago and now she is afraid to travel alone and not sure she can afford it.  Naturally I steer her in the right direction and recommend Lonely Planet and Rough Guides. Then we get down to business, I strip off and put on these black paper shorts – one size fits all and most inelegant, then lie on a table covered in foil.  Warm mud is plastered all over me then I am wrapped up like a turkey with a big duvet on top to keep me warm.  Whilst the seaweed and aromatherapy mixture takes effect I get a lovely head massage.  About 15 minutes later I clean up in the shower then lie face down for more massage.  This time it is my back and legs and so relaxing that the next thing I know I hear a bell jingling to wake me up.  I must have had a little extra treatment as it is after 5pm and should only have been a 75-minute session. Alexandria doesn’t have another client so I stay for another half hour chatting to her.  In the dining room it is Italian night with most of the food from there.  The evening show is an English man on the piano and he is very skilled but doesn’t manage much interaction with the audience.  Round of the day with the 10pm movie “Next” at the cinema.  For a ship of over 2000 passengers the cinema with around 50 seats is insufficient and many people end up sitting in the aisle or missing out.  Clocks forward another hour (BST –3).

JEWEL OF THE SEAS 4 – TRANSATLANTIC CROSSING

 

FRIDAY 8 MAY – What with all our activity and the time changes we don’t wake up until almost 10am.  Luckily breakfast is served until 11.30am.  In the cards room there is a backgammon championship but only 2 other players turn up so we just have a few games amongst ourselves.  Hang out by the pool enjoying the warm sun.  The afternoon movie “21” is fun and based in Las Vegas.  As Crown & Anchor (previous passengers) members we have a voucher for wine tasting saving us the $10 (£7) fee.  We get to sample 6 wines, all very expensive but none to our palate – is it possible to actually prefer cheap-boxed wine!!  A couple on our table amaze us saying they have been on 120 cruises as they live near a port and their travel agent gets them all the deals.  After thinking we had a great deal at $850pp it turns out others paid $600 and got a balcony room.  In America the best deals on this cruise seem to have been in January and February so we don’t feel too bad about it as we could not have booked that early.  The dinner table service is slackening off and after 1 hour 45 minutes we still haven’t seen the dessert menu and need to be at the Crown & Anchor member’s cocktail party.   Alcohol is very expensive on the ship so we have to grab all opportunities for free drink!  In the Coral Theatre tonight’s show is a young violinist, his playing is excellent but this is his first performance on a cruise ship and he is very nervous.  The final movie of the days is “Swing Voter” after which we retire and put our clocks forward yet again (BST – 2hours).

JEWEL OF THE SEAS 5 – TRANSATLANTIC

 

SATURDAY 9 MAY – I’m getting a little tired racing around to activities so have a lie in whilst Steve goes to breakfast then catch up on my diary when he goes to a quiz.  The good thing about cruising is that you can get food 24 hours a day so I can easily snack later.  During lunch on the deck we spot a tanker and a yacht, others see whales.  The afternoon comedy show is really funny with audience interaction almost taking over.  There’s a rock-climbing wall on board and I want to try it.  Having got all kitted out I find that my false nails are too long for me to use the handholds.  Few people turn up for the evening meal, the service is getting slower each day and we all agree the food isn’t quite up to expectations or other cruises.  After trivia we go to the show but they have changed it.  Bad weather is forecast so they are putting on the tango dancing tonight.  We sit out the first two dances then leave, as it doesn’t appeal to us.  The late Mr & Mrs style show is pretty funny though.  Clocks forward another hour (BST – 1 hour).  Reckon you get a better deal on the western transatlantic crossing adding an hour to each day!  Along with tomorrows programme there is a message in our cabin to say that people on board have been quarantined with chicken pox and it tells you what to look out for.

JEWEL OF THE SEAS 6 – TRANSATLANTIC

 

SUNDAY 10 MAY -             We are woken early with a repeated announcement “alpha alpha alpha to cabin …”.  Suspect this was not meant as a public message but in panic someone pressed the wrong button.  Over breakfast people guess that it was a medical emergency.  At the games room you can put your name on a list for the games you enjoy playing and I have been invited to join 3 other ladies for Canasta.  Americans Fran, Gail and Andrea are travelling together along with their husbands.  Their Canasta rules are almost completely different but I manage to get the hang of it sufficiently to be invited back for another game.  We’ve found out you can take lunch in the Tides formal dining room and we enjoy this better than the buffet.  You get table service, have a chance to chat to other passengers and the food seems tastier.  We try sitting out on deck by the pool but apart from wallowing in the hot tub we are chilly.  Many people look like they are on holiday in England wrapped up in blankets.  Settle for an afternoon in bed watching TV movies.   We do the buffet for our evening meal then trivia, show (a great singer) and Mr Bean on holiday movie to round off the day.  The ocean has been getting rougher throughout the day and we have a rather pleasant rock and roll.  Maybe worse is expected as sick bags have appeared throughout the ship but we think they are going over the top when we get back to our room and find a huge plastic laundry bag on the bed!

JEWEL OF THE SEAS 7 – TRANSATLANTIC

 

MONDAY 11 MAY – Hard to believe we have been on board for a week, the time has flown by and we are certainly not bored. Our daily routine is now getting up late, eating, doing trivia quizzes, lying by the pool and lounging in our room.  It is formal night again and I can see we may not be going to the next one as Steve can barely do up his suit trousers!  Brenda Cochrane from Scotland is the evening show performer.  She is a singer but also has a really funny rapport with the audience.  However the highlight of the day is the late evening entertainment of the game show “The Quest”.  We have arranged for our dining table members to make up our team.  The cruise director calls out for a male or female to bring an item to him and you are awarded points for doing so and extra for being in the first 3.  Steve & Alan look really funny skipping around the room together whilst I cop it to wriggle on the floor like a worm.  Everyone helps in someway including Margaret who loans her false teeth!  When a request goes out for a women to take up 2 pairs of men’s trousers Steve is unlucky in that JohnnyO keeps his and he has to go up alone at the end to collect them.  He also ends up being our team member to be dressed up like a women and strut around.    Our team come in 3^rd and end up with medals but couldn’t have cared less as we had such a fun night.

JEWEL OF THE SEAS 8 - TRANSATLANTIC

 

TUESDAY 12 MAY – I join the ladies for cards whilst Steve does the trivia.  By the time I finish it is time for the movie “Lucky you” so I end up having a picnic in the cinema.  Part way through is another “Alpha” call out, the second today.  We are now picking up British TV so spend late afternoon in bed watching “Fawlty Towers” and “Allo Allo”.  The evening show is cruise director “JohnnyO” who plays the EWI (Electronic wind instrument).   It is like an electric organ and can imitate numerous different instruments.  During the show he tells the story of his life accompanied by significant songs.  The late entertainment is “Battle of the sexes” but it is not as funny as “The Quest” and we end up in the smoking section of the Safari Room so leave early.

JEWEL OF THE SEAS 9 - TRANSATLANTIC

 

WEDNESDAY 13 MAY – When we wake up we are docked in Lisbon PORTUGAL.  For once we get up early and by 8.30am set foot on dry land for the first time since last Thursday.  The ship have organised a shuttle bus, $6 (£4.20) to take you to the city centre.  Armed with a map from the tourist office we set off to explore.  We visited Lisbon in 1997 but concentrated on the Belem area.  Today on foot we want to explore the centre and begin heading from Praca de Comercio to San Sebastio.  The 1902 street lift is very impressive as are a number of squares with fine buildings.  Returning along a parallel side street full of theatres and restaurants we stop to look inside “Casa do Alentejo”.   From the outside it looks insignificant but inside the restaurant is done in Moorish style with lots of small restaurant rooms with walls decorated in ceramic murals, most impressive.  There are many electric cars in use here but it is still a shock to see the Police driving round in an electric golf cart style vehicle.  We both struggle to find our land legs and find it a hard climb up to the castle, made worse by getting lost and having to walk up and down numerous staircases.   We have really enjoyed wandering around but feel quite weary so catch a local bus, Euro 1.40 (£1.20) back to the ship.  Manage to get off one stop too soon and end up walking through the dockyards but Steve is happy as we pass a workers canteen where he gets a bottle of Sagres beer for Euro 1 (90p), a bargain after paying $6 (£4.20) on board for an inferior brew.  I feel quite queasy so spend the afternoon in bed whilst Steve sunbathes on deck.  Set sail around 4.30pm and we both stand on deck to watch our passage out along the river.  Feel almost envious of the motorhomes parked on the banks of the river.  Service in the Tides dining room is getting very slow (over 2-hours for a 3 course meal) so tonight we eat buffet style at the Windjammer.  The Extreme Vegas show is quite good with some magic, juggling and audience participation. 

JEWEL OF THE SEAS 10, LISBON

 

THURSDAY 14 MAY – Today’s port is Vigo in SPAIN.  Again we have toured the area in our motorhome so settle for a wander round the hilly town.  The weather is poor and once we have climbed up to the castle it begins to rain.  We thought we had wrapped up for the cooler weather but by the time we get back I am wet and shivering.  I go straight to bed whilst Steve spends the afternoon eating, doing quizzes and reading.  Not sure what is wrong with me but it is evening 8.30pm showtime before I get up.  Steve went to the earlier show and left after about 10 minutes.  City of Dreams has great sets and costumes but much of the singing is screechy opera style and not to my liking but I do sit it through.  Head to the Card Room and realise how week I am when I am overtaken by someone with a zimmer frame.  Round of the evening with a game of Euchre with Alan and Christa.

JEWEL OF THE SEAS 11, VIGO

 

FRIDAY 15 MAY – Our final day at sea and last chance for on board activities.  We have had a rough nights sailing and it is still a bit choppy but I am feeling much better and ready for action.  Steve is finally on a winning trivia team (they have been up as tie breakers many times but lost).  I don’t like being in the same team as him as one of the guys takes it too seriously.  British immigration officers have boarded the ship and throughout the day we take turns to clear customs.  Apparently there will be nothing more at Harwich so you can take in virtually anything on the basis that you are limited by how much you can carry.  Our final formal night and Steve must have lost a bit of weight as his trousers now fit!  Alan & Ika are absent and we are upset when she arrives and tells us Alan is ill with a lung infection and has been on a drip.  Judging by the number of “alpha” calls this sailing we have had a lot of illnesses on board and at least one death.  Guess this is a reflection on the age of the passengers and the duration of the cruise.  The “Soul Sensation” show is excellent, all our kind of music.  This is followed by the talent show with some great singers plus a comedian.

JEWEL OF THE SEAS 12 – AT SEA VIGO TO CHERBOURG

THURSDAY 16 APRIL – We park up by the laundry and get started on the washing.  It costs $1.75 (£1.50) to wash and $1.50 (£1.05) for a dryer.  1 ½ later we have done 3 loads of washing and 2 dries and now have everything up to date including the spare bedding for Harry’s new owners.  We do our last grocery shop at Port Lavaca Wal Mart then head towards Houston.  We stop in Palacios for lunch and make use of the free dump station in City Park.  Bay City has a Wal Mart where we can spend the night.  The parking area down the side is by a grassy park and looks very peaceful.  It is until about 5pm when trains start hurtling through about 50 feet from us.  Luckily they only run until about 10pm and go quiet in the night.

BAY CITY WAL MART

74 MILES

 

FRIDAY 17 APRIL – Other than a bit of rain pattering on the roof we have had one of our quietest Wal Mart nights to date.  Unfortunately the weather forecast is poor and we are heading to a naturist resort.  Natural Horisuns is easy to find near the village of Boling.  Resident Randy shows us around and we manage to get set up before the rain begins.  There’s a nice outdoor pool, hot tub and clubhouse with TV lounge.  On the TV they are showing area warnings for flash floods, heavy rain and tornadoes but we seem to be in an area on the edge of almost all of them.  Other than nipping out for a shower between showers we stay in the van.  The evening news shows areas near here with heavy snow and hail stones so we have got off lightly.

NATURAL HORISUNS, NR BOLING - $120 (£85) week + metered electric

28 MILES

 

SATURDAY 18 APRIL – We’ve had a few showers through the night but things get much worse during the day with torrential downpours and low light.  So much for us being at a naturist resort and outside cleaning Harry up!  When I open the bedroom blind the cord snaps and it drops shut so another job to add to our list.  Late morning when I put the kettle on to boil the socket doesn’t work and we then notice that the circuit breaker on the bathroom socket has popped out.  Exploring to find about the problem I notice wet in our bedroom and realise that I had just opened the bedroom window when the blind fell shut and I had forgotten to close it.  However compared to the people on the news who have flooded homes we are doing OK and it is a huge downpour that we get.

NATURAL HORISUNS 2

 

SUNDAY 19 APRIL – What a difference a day makes and we wake to a very nice morning.  I soon have the blind restrung and one of the members called Slim is an Electrician and offers to help with the socket problem.  He works out that it is connected to an outdoor socket that has got damp in the rain so easy to put right and a bit of silicone will prevent future problems.  In the evening everyone gathers at the clubhouse for George’s famous ribs.  He cooks them to a family recipe and they are the best ribs we have ever had.  People bring along side dishes and we sit with Slim and his wife Lucy and meet other members Charles, Sandy, Berth & Steve and Cille. 

NATURAL HORISUNS 3

 

MONDAY 20 APRIL – Considering we have been doing odd jobs for the last week or so there is still a lot to do.  As I go through each cupboard I put the things we want to take over the cab and can soon see that we are going to have package problems. Accustomed to travelling light it will quite a novelty for us to check in baggage and look like a proper tourist when we board the cruise ship!  We both work hard but break at 3pm to sit by the pool.  Slim & Lucy have an Internet card and offer us use of it so we do a quick message check and time our visit to them felling a dead tree.  Unfortunately Slims plan to tie the tree to his truck, to ensure the direction of the fall by driving off, backfires as the rope is too short and the branches land on the back of his truck.  

NATURAL HORISUNS 4

 

TUESDAY 21 APRIL – Another hot day and more jobs to do.  Again break off for late afternoon by the pool.  One of the members comes over to see the work we are doing on Harry and comments that he thought it was a new vehicle so obviously our hard work has paid off.

NATURAL HORISUNS 5

 

WEDNESDAY 22 APRIL – Now down to the odd jobs I defrost the fridge and freezer then join Slim & Lucy for a ride to Wharton Wal-Mart.  They take me on a scenic route through town where there is a most attractive courthouse.  Steve stays behind to finish polishing before it gets too hot.  Usual afternoon by the pool including a few cooling dips.

NATURAL HORISUNS 6

 

THURSDAY 23 APRIL – Lucy has a washing machine and dryer in their trailer and offers me use of it.  We continue past their place to walk the nature trail and spot a deer in the woods.  Onto the last leg of the jobs we are a little disappointed that it is a cloudy day as we planned to spend most of it topping up our tans.  Late afternoon I manage to gather a few people by the pool for a photo shoot to go with my TAN article.  Our last night alone in the motorhome and last night in the queen sized bed as we are going to let Keith & Louise use it when they arrive. 

NATURAL HORISUNS 7

 

FRIDAY 24 APRIL – Time to move off and our journey should take less than 1 hour to Brookshire but with our exploratory detour it takes 1-¾ hours.  Arrive at 12.15 and passing Orlando’s Pizza we can’t resist their $4.99 (£3.50) buffet.  There are salads, pasta and 12 different savoury pizzas and 3 dessert pizzas so it is great value.  Finally arrive at Wayne & Sylvia’s, we visited in October so it is great to see them both again as they have the day off work.  Catch up on recent news then take them out to a new Mexican restaurant nearby for a meal.  With Internet at our disposal we check out flights to Russia and get a good deal with Austrian Airlines via Vienna.  The flights are actually only £2 but with taxes come to £129 each and we go on 11^th June so another trip to look forward to.

BROOKSHIRE, WAYNE & SYLVIA’S

 

SATURDAY 25 APRIL – We enjoy a cooked breakfast of scrambled eggs, bacon and biscuits with delicious gravy – actually a creamy sausage sauce.  Sounds like we just got out of Mexico in time, as swine flu is becoming a major problem there.  After lunch we head off to Houston for the Healthy Hides of Houston toga party.  Felix and Ernie (Ernestine) have a lovely private property with pool, spa and games room so perfect for a gathering.  Having been to one of their parties last year we recognise a number of people and also make new friends.  With tons of food even with a small helping of everything leaves us overeating (good practice for the cruise!).  The fancy dress parade is really funny with some very innovative costumes.  It is almost 1am when we arrive back.

BROOKSHIRE 2

 

SUNDAY 26 APRIL – We don’t wake up until 9.30am then spend the day pottering around.  Sylvia offers to merge my laundry with hers and does a fantastic job sorting it all and processing it correctly unlike myself who chucks it all in together.  Having got the cheap flights to Moscow and a host lined up we are frustrated to find out how expensive and complicated the visa situation is – guess that is why few people go their independently but we’ll figure it out.  In the evening we play Mexican Train with Wayne & Sylvia’s rules and find it a little less challenging with the version using the doubles as a block but still fun.

BROOKSHIRE 3

 

MONDAY 27 APRIL – Wayne leaves for work early so he can fit 10 days hours into 9 days and have alternate Fridays off.  Sylvia doesn’t leave until 8.30am so we get to see her.    We are really tight on luggage space to do a mock pack and find we can just about squeeze in everything we need and don’t have enough left over to warrant buying another bag and paying $15 to check it in.  In the afternoon a storm begins to brew and by the time Wayne arrives back around 5pm we have torrential rain and lots of wind.  Sylvia phones to say she will be late so just Wayne joins us in Harry for a Chinese meal.  As the evening progresses the storm worsens so we are all glad to see Sylvia arrive home safely.  Spend the evening doing a quick slide show of our Mexican trip; already I have forgotten so much of what we did. 

BROOKSHIRE 4

 

TUESDAY 28 APRIL – The storm wakes us all up and at 4.30am it is like a hurricane with garden chairs having been blown into the pool.  There’s a bit of a lull and Steve dashes out to check that Harry is OK and is pleased to find no leaks.  When we get up later we learn that a tornado passed this way at 4.30am so that was probably the worst of the storm.  Many areas of Houston are flooded and people are trapped in their homes.  They are saying it is worse than the hurricane Ike so we are lucky to have escaped with no real damage.  We are surprised to find a damp area on the carpet in Harry, as there is no evidence of rain coming in.  Eventually we figure it must be from when Steve dashed out to check the van and the water ran off him onto the floor then pooled in one area – he was like a drowned rat when he got back into the house.  The weather picks up and we have a few spells in the afternoon when we can sit out sunbathing.  Wayne arrives home and brings 3 juicy steaks that he cooks on the
BBQ.  Tonight Sylvia gets back sooner than anticipated so she could have eaten with us.  Enjoy our last game of Mexican Train together.

BROOKSHIRE 5

 

WEDNESDAY 29 APRIL – We are sad to be leaving our friends again as the time has flown by and we haven’t even managed to fit in a dip in their hot tub or a game of petanque.  Our journey towards Spring takes us out in the country where fields have become lakes and small lanes are like rivers.  At the Wal Mart store I treat myself to solar nails ready for the cruise.  I’ve never had it done before and am fascinated by the process.  The beautician is a Vietnamese man who used to be a computer technician!  To begin with my nails are smoothes and filed down then really long tips are glued on.  These are cut shorter and a sort of pink paste is applied to the bottom half of my nails, smoothed then cut into the correct shape.  On the tips a sparkly white paste is blending onto this.  Much filing and polishing follows but I do end up with some really nice looking nails for $32 (£23).  Spring Oaks RV park is only a couple of miles down the road and we have booked on for 1 week, $150 (£100), to enable Keith & Louise to deal with registering Harry etc.  This is our final trip in Harry and I tot up that we have covered 22713 miles in 22 ½ months so pretty much bang on the 1000 miles a month as usual.  The wi-fi at the park is not working but receptionist Linda is very helpful and offers us use of the office computer.  On the TV news they say the first death in America to swine flu has occurred with a toddler dying in Houston.  At 5pm we get a text to say Keith & Louise are here and just off to pick up the hire car.  They arrive just after 6pm and we are soon showing them around.  Keith is struggling with flu and coupled with jet leg is finding it hard to take everything in.  We have a few snacks then to keep him awake for a little longer, and to practice driving, we suggest a trip to the Wal-Mart.  It works for a short time but they are both asleep in the bedroom within minute of returning.

SPRING CREEK MOBILE HOME PARK, $150 (£100) WEEK

51MILES

 

THURSDAY 30 APRIL – Keith & Louise are awake early so once Steve and I wake around 7am we get up and sit out having breakfast and talking things through.  A few people walk past and everyone is really friendly and stops to chat.  On the computer we complete the balance of the sale using an instant UK bank transfer.  As part of the sale deal with have offered to help them getting the van on the road so our first task is to get Keith an American drivers licence for cheaper insurance.  Rather than face Houston traffic we suggest going to nearby Conroe after buying a Tom Tom navigator from Wal Mart.  We get bad news at the driving test office, under new rules Keith cannot take a driving test in America on his B2 tourist visa and is also told he can’t even drive on his British licence on an International Driving Permit.  This is a huge problem as IDP’s can only be bought in your country of residence whilst you are there.  However reasoning that Keith had already hired a car using his British licence this does not add up.  Call in at Best Buy for them to buy a laptop then back to the campground for a re think.  On the computer I fill in an application for Keith’s insurance through Progressive using the section for him to enter a foreign drivers licence (no mention of an IDP). Surprisingly even with the British licence the premium is only around $670 (£500), so not even worth the hassle of Keith taking the American test.   We are trying to meet up with our friend Tim but the office with the phone is closed.  Neighbour John offers us use of his mobile and comes round for a chat.  I cook my last meal in Harry, chilli pasta that we eat at the picnic table.

HOUSTON 2, SPRING OAKS

 

200904

 

WEDNESDAY 1 APRIL 2009 – We have a very quiet night with just the occasional donkey braying to disturb us.  Our plan is to set off across country tomorrow to avoid the rush traffic for the beginning of the Semana Santa holiday this weekend.  We’ve still got some vegetables left and cannot take raw ones into the States so spend an hour or so preparing them for the freezer but also doing a batch of home made potato crisps, most of which we eat during the manufacturing process.  Cruise ship of the day is or should I say are Sapphire Princess and RCI Mariner of the Seas.  There’s a big hill at the end of the peninsula and we climb this to get superb views in all directions.  Throughout the day we see the tourists doing horse rides along the beach, quad biking, water sports and walks around the island. 

ISLA DE LA PIEDRA 3, BENJIS

 

THURSDAY 2 APRIL – We are up just before 6am ready for our big journey.  It’s not that we have a really long drive towards Durango but it is on very twisty mountain roads.  It takes almost an hour to get to the start of Mex 40 and sure enough we begin climbing and winding our way into the Sierra Madre almost immediately.  The road is good with lots of lorries using this route but progress is slow and the driving tedious.  We pass one Quebec camper en route.  There are far reaching views but nothing spectacular to see.  We pass the Tropic of Cancer at 1700m then reach the summit and cross into DURANGO state around 2620m complete with military checkpoint (clocks forward 1-hour).  We are now on a plateau with stretches of excellent new road going through the pine forest and logging the main industry.  Billboards tell us that the development of the next 45km will include 38 tunnels and 34 bridges.  Around km 57 we stopped at Parque El Tequan.  Signs tell us it is open Thursday – Sunday from 8am – 10pm but we still have to shout through the gate to be let in even though it is 12.30pm.  For P50 (£2.50) we can stay overnight and we walk around before picking an area at the lower level by the basketball court and near the chalets.  After lunch we are ready for a nap.  When I set out for a late walk I find that the Quebec camper van is here and parked further along as they have a 4wd truck.  Even with that the road leading to the dried up lake was too bad for them to continue.  Jacques & Jeanne are very interesting people.  She is Belgian and was raised in Belgian Congo and he is French but they moved to Quebec 50 years ago.  They still have a motorhome in France and have take it down to Morocco and other north African countries and have taken this camper all through South America so lots of inspiration for us.  Our days are now numbered so we start to work out way through our DVD’s and watch a Barbara Cartland “The Lady and the Highwayman after supper.

PARQUE EL TEQUAN, KM 57 MEX 45 – P50 (£2.50)

165 MILES

 

FRIDAY 3 APRIL – It has been a really cold night and is still only just above freezing when we wake up so we get chance to give the central heating a run.  As Jacques & Jeanine are leaving they tell us it went down to –4C.  We really like it here; it is so quiet and the only noise in the night was the occasional distant truck using air brakes.  In reverse of recent days when we have sat out in the morning before it got too hot here we are sit in for the morning until it warms up then outside in the afternoon but boy is it hot then.  One car comes in to check the place out but other than that we have the place to ourselves unless you count all the deer in the enclosure. 

PARQUE EL TEQUAN 2

 

SATURDAY 4 APRIL – Today is the start of the main Mexican holiday but we can’t get on the road early, as the park gates don’t open until 8am.  The by pass round Durango is excellent and we pick up the free road to take us across country with comparatively little traffic.   The “periferico” around the tri cities of Ciudad Lerdo, Gomez Palacio and Torreon is good and fast although there is a lot of traffic.  We are now in COAHUILA state, along with Durango sited by the Americans as dangerous places to be!  We stick with the free road and this merges with the main road in many places.  It is easy driving on good roads across a flat barren landscape with lots of saltpans, much like central Australia.  Heading towards Saltillo on the free road we hope to find a place to stay overnight.  The hotel in Saltillo is our banker but time is against us.  Options are very limited with just roadside parking by very poor housing communities.  Truckers are using these places but we’ve learnt they often just stop for a few hours so we could be left alone and safety is our primary concern.  We are very happy to see the only Pemex en route about 50km before Saltillo.  It’s 6.15pm so we take it and settle in at the back of the parking area.  The gas station closes from 11pm to 7am but the attendant lives here and tells us truckers usually park up as well so we feel safe. 

PEMEX, 50KM BEFORE SALTILLO ON FREE ROAD

344 MILES

 

SUNDAY 5 APRIL – With our 7.15am start we are around Saltillo before any traffic builds up.  Good job too as the signs for Monterrey are terrible, you have to turn off the ring road but the signs are at the bottom of the off ramp.  Call in for a last shop at Soriana only to be disappointed when they refuse to sell me booze on a Sunday.   Enter the state of NUEVO LEON and make good progress until the Monterrey ring road where we miss a sign (or there was a sign missing), overshoot and have to double back.  Last year we paid to use the toll road towards Laredo but know it was very expensive so opt for the free road.  All goes well until we reach Sabinas Hidalgo with a diversion from the main road.  This leads us right into the centre of the bustling little town on small roads but with no signs to get us out.  We keep asking directions and with great difficulty make it back on track.  Enter our last Mexican state; TAMULIPAS then pick up the road out to the Columbia Bridge exit point west of Nuevo Laredo.  It’s fairly busy with lots of Mexicans heading into the States for holiday week.  Leaving the Mexican side is easy as they have a booth where they remove your vehicle sticker after checking that you are taking out the same things you brought in – laptops, TV’s etc.  After turning in our tourist cards at the office and paying P50 (£2.50) bridge toll we cross the Rio Grande to the USA.  Getting through with the vehicle is easy including a sniffer dog check and so far we have only been about ½ hour in total.  The final hurdle is American immigration where we queue up and then fill in the Visa waiver forms.  At the desk they ask us lots of questions but we were prepared for this after our last entry difficulties.  This time they really get stuck in and accuse us of living at our friends Texas address.  Worse is to come when they ask for our drivers licence as there are now special Texas visitors’ licences but when Steve got his back in 2002 we were issued with a residents licence.  They imply that we obtained the drivers licence under false pretences so we have to explain exactly how we went about getting it.  There are 3 officers on our case and talk of refusing us entry and sending us back to Mexico but we explain that we have sold our motorhome and have a flight and cruise booked out of the States.   They then ask us for our vehicle registration documents which are in the motorhome.  Steve goes off to get them but my mind then goes into a panic imagining us trying to explain why the vehicle is registered in Florida with our friends Miami address.  A computer printout shows them all the times we have visited the States and I talk the officer through the scenarios and explain that on our last entry it should have been logged on the computer what our ongoing plan was.  The offices huddle together talking our scenario through and seem to reach a decision before Steve gets back.  Fortunately they agree to grant us entry with a 3-month stay.  All that is left is for our 4 fingers then thumb to be fingerprinted and a photo taken before paying $6 (£4) each visa charge.  Welcome back to America!  So we are now in TEXAS and suddenly find our clocks have gone forward an hour for daylight saving time so it’s after 5pm before we leave the border.  Realise now that I definitely made the right decision not to go back for my sisters wedding as re entering twice would have been must too much for them.  The exchange rate is now around $1.40 = £1 and the first gas we see is $1.89 (1.30) gallon.  Luckily we have a free camping spot in mind; the Texas Welcome centre at junction 18 on the I35 and it’s a great spot.  We’re too late for the visitor centre but they have free wi-fi and a nice seating area in gardens complete with pretty pools.  We chat to some truck drivers and learn that the new vehicles are so automated that the engines must be left running at all times for cab temperature control.  On hearing this we clear it with the rest area security guard so we can park where the cars go.  Not sure whether this was a good move or not as just after settling down to sleep we realise we are right beside a railway.  Between midnight and 1am 3 noisy trains go past and this is why I am now sat up at 1.15am writing my diary!  At least trains in Mexico never bothered us – they don’t have any.  I do some figures out of interest and find out our time in Mexico averaged out at £125 week, that’s for food, meals out, sightseeing, petrol and everything.  Within this figure is the Central America 2-week trip and there we spent £500 in 2 weeks so the real Mexico figure is even lower and what a great time we had as well. 

NORTH OF LARDEO, I35, EXIT 18 TEXAS WELCOME CENTRE REST AREA

270 MILES 

 

MONDAY 6 APRIL – Claire’s birthday so we are happy to be able to chat with her on Skype.  She’s off work for 2 weeks partly because it is the school holidays but she is also studying for her Chartered Accounts exam next month.   Leaving the freeway we are impressed by how little traffic there is on the minor roads, how smooth the road surface is and how quiet it is inside Harry.  Stopped at a junction we cannot even hear the engine running.  Although distances are now marked in miles we seem to travel them faster than the same in kilometres in Mexico because the roads are so good and there are no topes to bring us to a halt in the towns.  In Beeville we do a Wal Mart grocery shop, it’s actually quite hard not to stock up as there is such a wide choice of stuff compared to Mexico but with only 3 weeks to go I have to show some restraint.  I’ve been having problems with my new laptop and Victoria is the nearest major city with a Best Buy so we aim for there and are impressed by the RV Park on the edge of town.  It’s a grassy area by a stream at the edge of the City Park and only $12 (£8.50) night with full hook ups.  It is now light until around 8pm so we potter around outside until that time.  Then with unlimited water and electric I use the kettle for hot water to do lots of inside cleaning jobs.  Digital TV did not begin in February as planned and so we wind up the evening watching telly.

VICTORIA RV PARK - $12 (£8.50)

209 MILES

 

TUESDAY 7 APRIL – We want to go back to Mexico, can’t handle the cold nights and last night was almost freezing.  Once the day warms up we get the hose going and give Harry a good clean outside and what a difference it makes.  Head off along Navarro, the main road with big stores and Malls.  Best Buy admits there is a problem with my laptop screen but would have to send it back to Toshiba and it would be away for at least 2 weeks.  The only solution is for them to fill out a fault report form so I can deal with it back in England.  By dropping into different stores we manage to get many of our odd jobs done.  A few small things broke in Mexico and it was just a matter of getting the right parts to fix them up.  Surprisingly the running around takes all afternoon so we return to the RV Park to take in the last of the sun.  We are happy that it is less cold in the evening and night so maybe we will stay!

VICTORIA RV PARK 2

20 MILES

 

WEDNESDAY 8 APRIL – Heading off just before lunchtime we stop at Pizza Hut to partake in their $5.99 (£5 inc tax) buffet lunch and as usual manage to overeat.  Coming out of Mexico our attention is immediately drawn to the amount of obese people in America, especially at the all you can eat buffets!  We move on to “Buffalo Wings” car park as it is a sport bar showing the Liverpool match.  Whilst Steve spends him money in the bar I head to the shops to pick up a few new clothes for our cruise back to England.  It is easy to lose track of time in the Malls, as they are somewhat like casinos with no natural light and few clocks.  Consequently Steve is back before me and not a happy bunny after they lost.  Even worse the waitress chose the moment Liverpool scored to come over and chat to him so he missed the goal and the replay!  Wal Mart will do us for overnight; the number of RV’s surprises us. They are all from Quebec and gathered together for a happy hour with their chairs set up in the car park, in our opinion abusing the hospitality offered by Wal Mart.  I manage to buy a few more clothes in the store to complete my new wardrobe and now just need shoes.  At this stage Steve knows he needs stuff but just can’t be bothered to shop for it.

VICTORIA 3, WAL MART

 

THURSDAY 9 APRIL – We’ve done all we wanted and more in Victoria so head off to the coast to Magnolia Beach.  Again the place is full of predominantly Quebec vehicles.  Unfortunately it is extremely windy and not so pleasant to be outside plus the mosquitoes are a bit of a problem.  On the other hand we have a lovely view and the price is right.

MAGNOLIA BEACH

47 MILES

 

FRIDAY 10 APRIL – The wind dropped in the night and it is a glorious morning.  It is Good Friday an American holiday and many families arrive to camp at the beach.  They come towing boats and jet skis for a fun day in the water.  There are loads of people camped up here and we’ve walked around but not seen anyone we knew.  However we missed Paula who comes over to chat to us, we met her and Serge at Tenacatita Beach in Mexico.  The rest of the people here have been too afraid to go into Mexico so spend winter in the south of the USA.  They don’t know what they are missing!

MAGNOLIA BEACH 2

 

SATURDAY 11 APRIL – It is windy again so we take a walk into Magnolia.  This is a really strange town that doesn’t seem to know whether it is coming or going.  The store and gas station have closed down but a laundrette has opened in a hut and plots of land are being marked out for sale.  Many people seem to move here in their RV and then build onto it.  By the time we get back many of the motorhomers have left and it is much quieter other than Linda from Thunder Bay who comes round for a chat.

MAGNOLIA BEACH 3

 

SUNDAY 12 APRIL – The weather has got worse and we’ve had a little rain in the night and wake to a dull drizzly morning.  A few families brave it and are rewarded when things improve dramatically and we end up with a superb hot afternoon with clear blue skies.  There are 2 Mexican families, from Victoria, next to us and they entertain us with their Easter egg hunt and deliver some eggs to us.  The family business is making tacos and this uses lots of eggs.  For the last few weeks they have been careful removing the egg through just a small hole.  Having washed the eggs they decorated them, stuffed them with a type of confetti and sealed the top with tissue.  During Easter they go up to people and pretend to crack the egg on their heads at which point all the confetti flies out.  It is so hot in the afternoon that we have to keep going to the water for a cooling dip.  At one point a dolphin can be seen swimming out in the bay and late afternoon we see a couple of oilrigs being towed into Port Lavaca.

MAGNOLIA BEACH 4

 

MONDAY 13 APRIL – We sure are getting a mixed bag of weather here.  Today we have clear skies and sun but with wind coming along the shore.  Someone who stayed here all winter said it had been cold but at least they hadn’t any rain.  A local tells us they have a small problem here with mosquitoes in the summer – from March to December!  Still we manage a few hours sat out sunbathing in the afternoon.

MAGNOLIA BEACH 5

 

TUESDAY 14 APRIL – Many more vans leave and we are now down to single figures.  Get on with a few more clean up jobs; the outdoors furniture sure gets grim.  Manage to get on the Internet in the evening, the nearby campground has wi-fi and the password is their phone number!

MAGNOLIA BEACH 6

 

WEDNESDAY 15 APRIL – Usual day bit of cleaning bit of sunbathing, lots of doing nothing.  Linda & Brian leave, they look like a convoy as they have a truck towing a 5^th wheel towing a boat, in total of about 54’.  They make us laugh when they say they have only used the boat once all winter. 

MAGNOLIA BEACH 7

 

MONDAY 16 MARCH – When I check my E-mails there is a special on a transatlantic cruise from Miami to England on 4^th May.  This would fit in nicely with our onward plan so we contact Keith & Louise who put another payment down so we can get things booked.  By the end of the day they have also booked their travel arrangements and will arrive in Houston on 29^th April and will stay with us on a campground in Houston.  On 4^th May we fly Continental to Miami (£73 pp) to pick up a transatlantic cruise to Harwich arriving on 17^th May with Royal Caribbean, outside stateroom for $850 (£620).  From there we take a Virgin train package to Stoke on Trent for £19 so I think it is fair to say I had a busy day at the office!

MIRAMAR 3, PARAISO MIRAMAR RV PARK

 

TUESDAY 17 MARCH – We set off early for our journey up the coast.  Aticama is a cute little village and just beyond there we reach the Bay of Matanchen and see motorhome camped on the beach.  There is a sort of proper campground with swimming pool but just next to it informal camping behind Restaurant Paraiso Escondido and this is where we settle.  We’ve come all of 6 miles so our early start gets us here just as everyone is getting up!  Ole & David are here long term with their micro lights and do tourist flights along the coast.  The beach is a hive of activity with Mexicans erecting palapas all the way along, 4 rows deep, in preparation for Semana Santa.  We are very glad we didn’t stay on the campground as a “Soleil Mexico” caravan arrives with 27 rigs, all jammed in closer than on a car park.  There are a few bugs around sunset but we just hop inside at that time.  In the evening we watch “The last king of Scotland” about Idi Amin and can now add another country to our list of places we’d like to visit.

PLAYA MATANCHEN, RESTAURANT PARAISO ESCONDIO – FREE

6 MILES

 

WEDNESDAY 18 MARCH – It’s the time of month when we exercise our generator but we have a little trouble getting it started.  Les & Don come over from the campground and help Steve to fix it.  They stay on for a beer and a chat.  I learn that a couple living on the campground have Internet and I go over to buy some time.  Angel is in a huge motorhome and with her partner is buying a share in a cattle ranch here.  She charges P20 (£1) per day for Internet. Just as I am leaving I tell her I half recognise her and then realise we met at Tecolote Beach on the Baja last year.  They have upgraded from their small old rig to this beautiful “A” class but her partner isn’t there.  I have had my hair cut so it took a while for us to recognise each other.  When I get back Steve is talking to David who tells us of a nice free camping spot just south of Mazatlan on Isla De La Piedra.  I go inside to use Internet and have a message from Diana in New Brunswick to say her son Cory is in Mazatlan and we should visit.  Contacting Cory I learn that he has a house on Stone Island and by sheer coincidence the Spanish name for the place is Isla De La Piedra, the very spot David has just recommended.  The sunset this evening is stunning, it just gets better and better as the clouds take up the pink colour.  Don & Laura call round for a chat, as they also want to explore one of the beaches we have heard about up the coast.  We are staying another day for Sandra & Robert to arrive. 

PLAYA MATANCHEN 2

 

THURSDAY 19 MARCH – Other than the micro light guys virtually everyone else leaves.  The ocean here is the warmest we have encountered in Mexico and much like a warm bath.  Late afternoon Sandra & Robert arrive but decide to stay on the campground next door P190 (£9.50).  They bring round the “pina coladas” and Angel joins us with a brew of her own.  I’ve prepared a “Shepherds Pie” for supper after which we play games

PLAYA MATANCHEN 3

 

FRIDAY 20 MARCH – Steve heads off up the beach chatting with David.  He’s a really interesting guy around our age.  He was always into art and got lucky when he designed T-Shirts for “Grateful Dead”.   Other projects with the band followed then he used his money to buy ranches in Oregon but has now scaled down in order to travel.  I join Sandra for a drive back to Aticama, although it is only about 200 metres along the beach the road takes you inland for about 3km.  In the afternoon Mexicans arrive by the coach load and we think this is the start of the weekend influx so are surprised when they leave at sunset.

PLAYA MATANCHEN 4

 

SATURDAY 21 MARCH – Heading north we rejoin the main highway but then turn off to explore Playa Novillero.  Judging by the signs they are hoping to turn this into a resort beach but at the moment there is almost nothing there.  It is almost at the northern end of the longest beach in Mexico and very attractive.  You can drive on the beach as the sand is packed hard.  Sandra & I set off in the car to check out parking places and we find a piece of grassy land belonging to a hotel and the owner says we can park there.  Steve & I head in first but soon realise we are sinking.  As I was not on foot checking out the area I didn’t walk over the ground to check out how firm it was and now we know it is not.  There’s a restaurant opposite and the guy and his sons come over with shovels.  Robert & Sandra arrive and help out by offering their skid block but we still can’t get Harry out.  Robert tries pulling us with his motorhome but the rope snaps.  At his point we realise that we need a truck and chains and restaurant owner “Gasper” indicates he knows the man.  In Sandra’s car we head of with him to enlist the help of the local tractor owner.  Steve has already cleared most of the sand behind the van and underneath where it could catch anything so it’s really easy for the tractor to just pop us out.  We ask the tractor man if we can pay him and he says to speak to Gasper who asks for P500 (£25) to share between them.  A bit steep by Mexican standards but at least we got out without any damage.  The Hotel owner comes over and suggests we park on the more solid ground at the back of his lot and this is where we end up in a nice L formation.  Sitting out during the afternoon we see a 56-seater coach drop off its passengers then head onto the beach only to get stuck as we did.  Luckily his passengers are all young lads who can easily push him out.  Yesterday Sandra bought a large fish and they BBQ it and share it with us as a delicious summer taken sat out in candlelight.

PLAYA NOVILLERO 1

111 MILES

 

SUNDAY 22 MARCH – We’ve had a very quiet night so will stay for a few more days.  Walking in the bit of the village we meet Vicki who has been coming here for years from Arizona.  She says this place is about to take off but at this stage only has a couple of basic shops and a few restaurants.  The beach further south does not have a completely sealed road and little direct access to the beach so this is definitely the best place for us.  I cook us all a pasta lunch, which goes down well washed down with red wine whilst admiring our beach view from the palm garden. It’s a busy day on the beach with cars constantly coming and going completely churning up the track.  Late afternoon we go for a drive to San Cayetano, a small village at the northern most end of the beach but actually on the riverbank.  Beyond the village you reach a few bars and they are quite busy.  The waiter Victor gives us a bit of a show with his pole dancing to Mexican music, Speedy Gonzales will always remind us of him.  Local kids swim in the river whilst some young girls play hopscotch across the boats.  Here you get “botanos” (free snacks) with your drinks.  The snacks are fantastic, whilst the men get through 3 drinks each and Sandra and I 2 we receive 4 small fish, 4 plates of chips and prawns, taco chips, dips and a plate of 12 oysters.  The bill is P120 (£6) but we then find out that the oysters are P30 (£1.50) extra as Victor got them for us from the restaurant next door.  By the restaurants are about a dozen buildings made of fibreglass, domed and cross-shaped.  The sad remains of what were holiday bungalows but now in total disrepair. 

PLAYA NOVILLERO 2

 

MONDAY 23 MARCH – I join Robert & Sandra for a ride into Tecuala for shopping and Internet.  It’s really big busy town but with no signs of tourists or tourism at all.  In the church there are boards displaying children’s pictures and poems about their families.  Late afternoon Steve & I take a walk to visit Vicki who lives in the hotel opposite the church.  We find the place but it looks derelict however we see a Mexican inside doing some painting.  She tells us this is the right place and leads us through to where Vicki is staying.  Originally a very upmarket hotel with swimming pool etc it was damaged in the 1994 hurricane and seems to have had no work done since.  The downstairs rooms are still fairly solid and occasionally let to travellers whilst Vicki has taken over a section at the end for her art studio and home.  During our conversation we find out she knows our friend Cory whom we are on our way to see near Mazatlan.

PLAYA NOVILLERO 3

 

TUESDAY 24 MARCH – We have a bit of a lazy day.  In the afternoon Robert & Sandra go off on a boat trip (I did it last year from Teacapan) and can’t resist returning to the bar for drinks and snacks.  In the evening we introduce them to the old British comedy “Yes Prime Minister”.

PLAYA NOVILLERO 4

 

WEDNESDAY 25 MARCH – Vicki calls round to say farewell and give us the Bill Bryson book “Notes from a small island”.  I’ve read it before but know it is worth another read as it is so funny.  On the road at 8.30am we are stopped at the SINALOA border and asked, in Spanish, if we have any fruit.  Steve says no then I cringe as we drive past the with bowl of fruit in the kitchen window at their eye level.  We head out to Teacapan and find ourselves behind a work truck full of tar.  Loads of men are taking it off to fill the holes in the road.  Robert & Sandra need a full campsite so peel off at Villa Onac whilst we continue to what was Playa Las Lupitas but is this year called Playa Hermosilla trailer park.  The new name comes with a price increase from P80 to P100 (£5) due to new owner but the caretaker Valerie is the same one as last year.  There are only 2 other rigs here so we get a prime spot overlooking a private beach with a palapa.  We walk towards town and see many new homes going up.  There are 2 camping areas with 2 vans on one and 1 on the other so it seems many Americans have gone home early due to the news scares about violence in Mexico.  Sandra & Robert drive down late afternoon and tell us how fantastic Villa Onac is and that they have negotiated for us to stay there from tomorrow onwards without electric for P100 same as here.  We go for a drive into town to the new supermarket and along the front before returning home.  Bob tells us that the whole coast leading into Teacapan is earmarked to be the next Cancun with a huge development plan for the next 20-years.

TEACAPAN, PLAYA HERMOSILLA P100 (£5)

86 MILES

 

THURSDAY 26 MARCH – We take an early morning walk up the beach towards one of the other campgrounds.  Tambora has now been split into two sites but both are empty.  Returning along the beach we see a dead porpoise.  Villa Onac is surprisingly busy, normal price is P175 (£8.75) so reasonable consider they have a fabulous pool and are on the beach.  Unfortunately the beach area here has had hundreds of dead fish washed ashore during the night.  It’s quite a sight and as far as you can see in both directions and strange as there are numerous different types of fish in all shapes and sizes.  We guess they have been poisoned or something as none of the birds show any interest in eating them.  There are a couple of parking areas and we chose the quiet one with just a Canadian ex English couple called Ian & Anne in their VW camper.  I put in 20 laps in the pool mid afternoon then return for happy hour with Robert & Sandra.  They have just left when Don & Laura arrive with their drinks.  Playa Novillero also caught them out and they got stuck in almost exactly the same spot that we did so we compare photos.  They were lucky to get towed out for P300 (£15) by a truck.  Mexican Train is our evening game and Robert fools us all having taking all the double dominoes out before we arrived – he’s a bit of a lad on the quiet.

TEACAPAN 2, VILLA ONAC – P100 (£5) without electric

 

FRIDAY 27 MARCH – I’m up early thinking about my sister Annette who is getting married to Ian in England.  I spend most of the day on the Internet trying to speak to someone at the wedding and finally get through early afternoon to hear it all went well and everyone has had a great time.  Robert & Sandra head off towards San Diego in the hope of buying a new car.  Taking a beach walk we see that there are even more fish today and also lots of snake like looking eels.  Many crabs have tried to drag the fish down their holes but got them stuck so all you see is the fish tail sticking up in the air.  Late afternoon some officials arrive to check out the problem and they tell us it extends for between 10km and 15km with between 50 and 60 tons of dead fish.  They think red algae or plankton has caused it.  Anne & Ian have joined us for happy hour and we are entertained by the beach officials antics at trying to get their 4WD off the beach.   

TEACAPAN 3, VILLA ONAC

 

SATURDAY 28 MARCH – It’s a misty morning when I get up early but I do manage to catch Ian & Annette at the airport for a brief chat on Skype.  Claire sends me lots of wedding photos and I see that everyone looked really nice.  People attempt to clean up some of the fish but each tide brings in more.  A friend has researched it and it sounds like it was caused by a “red tide”, a natural thing that occurs under certain conditions including drought and hot water temperatures.  After joining us for happy hour we have a most enjoyable game of Canasta with Ian & Anne.

TEACAPAN 4, VILLA ONAC

 

SUNDAY 29 MARCH – It’s becoming a twice-daily thing to go down to the beach at high tide to see what is coming in.  Today there is a huge eel and a fish with blue lips.  There must be dozens of different varieties of fish in all shapes and sizes.  Judging by the quantity being washed ashore you would think that under normal circumstance fishing in these waters would be extremely lucrative.  Unfortunately in the heat of the day they are starting to get a bit smelly and flies are gathering.  Lots more vehicles leave and at once stage we are down to 3 before the new arrivals.  Ian & Anne join us for dinner followed by cards and again in the evening for snacks and cards – it’s rare we find people who can play Canasta so we have to make the most of such opportunities.

TEACAPAN 5, VILLA ONAC

 

MONDAY 30 MARCH – Ian & Anne make and early start and although this is what we like to do we realise just after 9am that we need to move to get away from the terrible smell.  Heading towards Mazatlan we turn off toward the airport then just before it at a sign to Isla de la Piedra.  The road turns to dirt and for almost 40 minutes we crawl along before reaching the village.  Isla de la Piedra is a peninsula with a small island attached and having driven into the village we find that Cory lives on the island part.  We pull up and Cory comes out to meet us, not the least bit surprised that we are a day early.  2 years ago we met him and his family in Canada and have kept up with him on Facebook since then.  We meet his friends Hjeron and girlfriend Christina.  Hjeron runs a theatre company www.mythmaker.com and shows us lots of pictures of his past productions.  He is here doing research for a future play.  This house is known as La Casa Del Mayor (the Majors house) or Case de Mi Amigos (House of my friends), and was built by Jaime who we meet.  He used lots of concrete to create unusual shaped rooms and beds, has left the floors as uneven dirt, and the rooms surround a most amazing jungle setting waterfall.  He is also building a future house and takes us to look at it.  Apparently in Mexico no one owns land that is covered by water so he is using this as a loophole to push out into the swamp and build on free land.  His visions are incredible and having seen his original house we are sure it will be impressive.  In the afternoon we go on an exploratory walk around the main village.  There’s a fantastic beach and part way along “Tres Amigos” campground with a surprising number of vehicles on it but all parked close together like solders.  David told us we could free camp by Benji’s pizza restaurant and this turns out to be at the far end of the bay on a rocky peninsula but much more to our liking.  Just to make sure we will like it we linger over a ham, prawn and garlic pizza and a few drinks.  By the time we complete the circuit round the hill back to Cory’s it is late afternoon and we both fall asleep.  Cory is having a party tonight and comes over to ask us to join in.  A few friends have brought along drums and Cory performs with his hula-hoop.  We are the first to leave feeling quite tired but finding out it is 11.30pm we are not surprised.  

ISLA DE LA PIEDRA 1, LA CASA DEL MAYOR

 

TUESDAY 31 MARCH – We are up before everyone else and walk down to the waterfront to see a huge Norwegian Star cruise liner in port.  Once the others emerge we learn they are going over to Mazatlan today so we tag along and begin by taking the boat across to the city, P5 (25p).  Cory wants to go to the park to find out about getting bamboo plans and to meet up with children from a local school.  He negotiates for a “pulmonia” (VW purpose made kind of street golf cart) to take us P60 (£3).  He sorts out the bamboo but finds we are too late for the school kids but still manages to get us into the park free.  Hjeron wants some bird feathers for his production and thinks they should be easy to get in Mexico but we are still surprised when they tell him to go into the aviary to collect them.  Cory’s planned trip to an island doesn’t come off so we all go our own separate ways and we make our way back.  We move over to Benji’s where we have a nice view.  We watch the cruise ship leave then settle down for a movie.

ISLA DE LA PIEDRA 2, BENJIS PIZZA RESTAURANT.

200903

 

SUNDAY 1 MARCH 2009 – Heading further up the coast we get a great view from the “mirador”.  Zihuatanejo is a traditional fishing village and now linked to Ixtapa, a purpose built tourist resort.  We go for the former and stop off to do a bit of shopping before heading to Playa La Ropa.  There are a few camping options here but El Manglar is full and just a basic parking area for which they ask P300 (£15), Casa Bella opposite is also full.  Between them is a private house and we are waved into their walled garden to park up for P100 (£5).  David says we are fine there overnight.  It is his birthday so lots of friends are around celebrating with a meal.  Although we cannot see the beach it is just a short walk away and we are amazed to see just how busy and touristy it is.  All kinds of water sports are on offer, restaurants run along the back between hotels and vendors keep walking around.  There must be hundreds of people on the beach, a far cry from yesterday when it didn’t even get into double figures.  Settle down with Sandra on the lounger in the full sun, Steve in the half shade and me under an umbrella.  Sandra is whacked from the walks we have done so Steve and I stroll around the large bay.  We all take a few dips in the ocean, easier to get in and out but still with a few sneaky waves.  David whose garden we are in also has a small restaurant and we order our evening meal from him.  He sets up a table for 3 complete with tablecloth and miniature orange tree decoration.  Unlike the tourist beach restaurants we only pay P45 (£2.25) for mahi mahi fish, sticky rice, tomatoes, onions, beans and tortillas and P60 (£3) for 12 prawns with the same accompaniments.  We’ve tired Sandra out again so she has an evening nap whilst Steve and I take a stroll to the beach to be amazed by the sheer number of lights around. 

ZIHUATANEJO, DAVIDS GARDEN, P100 (£5)

59 MILES

 

MONDAY 2 MARCH – We manage an 8.30am start but within a couple of hours Sandra is snoozing on the sofa, think the morphine patches are knocking her out.  Near Lazaro Cardenas we pass a huge British steel works with a canal linking it to the shipping port.  Cross into MICHOCAN state as we drive over a dam with nice river views.  Heading up the coast there are lots of really nice beaches.  Most of them are small ones backed by palms or little coves with rocks.  Caleta De Campos is famous as the best place for the seasonal phenomenon of the green ocean.  If conditions are right the ocean glows a bright luminous green and if you go swimming you come out covered in green sparkles.  Having driven down the new road to town we turn left and head to the last restaurant behind the beach to park up for P50 (£2.50).  This is a total contrast to yesterday with just a handful of Mexicans on the beach.  At low tide you can walk all the way around the bay.  The sand is white but mixed with an olive green hue.  At one end there are a few surfers but this is not the main surfing season. I make up pina colada for us to enjoy before sunset.  Although we are in the right season for the green spectacle conditions are obviously not right as there is nothing to be seen, maybe a full moon would have worked better. 

CALETA DE CAMPOS – FREE

110 MILES

 

TUESDAY 3 MARCH – When we come to pay the restaurant lady she won’t accept any money so Steve gives a coin to her son and a gift.  The coastal Mex 200 continues to reward us with fantastic scenery, a bit like the Great Ocean Road in Australia.  As well as running along the coast it frequently veers inland up into the mountains meaning lots of twists and turns.  Sandra suffers with travel sickness so ends up lying down again.  It takes just over 2-hours to reach Maruata where we find a restaurant parking spot behind one of the beaches.  Sandra cooks up beef bourguignon for lunch and is surprised that the lovely looking meat is to my expectations of being rather chewy.   Exploring the beach we find that we are in an area with numerous small beaches surrounding a rocky outcrop.  There are many holes in the rocks and crevices that roar with the incoming waves.  Further east we reach the western end of the main beach with a small river where the fishing boats anchor.  You can get really close to the birds here as they scavenge for fish scraps.  This beach is much calmer for swimming.  The naval base backs the middle of the beach where a couple of Canadians are also free camped.  Spend the rest of the afternoon with Sandra sunbathing, Steve mixing beach with shade and me by the motorhome. 

MARUATA BEACH – FREE

64 MILES

 

WEDNESDAY 4 MARCH – Seem to be managing an 8.30am start to the day’s journeys, which is pretty good with 3 of us.  It is early in the day when we stop to check out the American owned campground Rancho Bougainvillea at km196.  It’s a pretty hillside setting but regimented sites with vehicles close together and a bit of a walk down to the beach.  They want P210 (£10.50) for dry camping so all in all not a great option for us.  At the border into COLIMA state we get the army inspection inside the vehicle.  They look in lots of our cupboards but don’t do an efficient enough inspection to have found anything that we may have wanted to hide.  We suddenly find ourselves on a very good, wide flat road and can now maintain 80kph for more than a few yards.  We take the free road and turn off to the Mexican beach resort of Cuyutlan.  There’s a turtle sanctuary at the southern end and the P25 (£1.25) admission includes use of their swimming pool.  Unfortunately today they are having staff training and will close at 1pm instead of 4.30pm.  They have quite a few turtles in pools with information in English, a few crocodiles and iguanas but it is not great, however the swim in the pool is most welcome.  Move off to park behind the beach.  It looks like this area is starting to be developed with lots marked off and many sprouting mansions.  We pick a vacant one between two of them and park up for the afternoon and night.  The beach is completely deserted with blackish sand (probably from the Colima volcano) and a rough ocean but beautiful.  Other than one train going through blowing its horn we have an extremely peaceful night.

CUYUTLAN BEACH – FREE

89 MILES

 

THURSDAY 5 MARCH – At the north end of the village we try to join the road to Manzanillo but the only choice is the toll road.  At the booth we see they want P230 (£11.50) so we double back 8km to pick up the free road.  Eventually we make it down to the waterfront in Manzanillo near the naval base then head towards the hotel zone.  The road is in terrible condition with lots of traffic so not an enjoyable driving experience.  To cap it all we see nothing of great interest.  It is nice to be returning to Melaque, by coincidence we were here exactly a year ago.  The “almost free camping” area have put the price up to P40 (£2) night or P1000 (£50) a month but they have now got a proper dump station and are putting in a toilet block.  Manage to get a great position with a palapa on the bank overlooking the river and the bay.  Take an afternoon walk into town to do the Internet and learn that Keith is ready to put a deposit on Harry.  After cooking us fish & chips for our supper I take Sandra for a walk along the “malecon”.  A fisherman throws his scraps to the pelicans and there is a feeding frenzy.  One gets a huge fish but it sits in his beak pouch with lots of protrusions.  For the next half hour we watch it trying to swallow it.  The bird doesn’t want to spit it back out as the others would take it so periodically it tries to shuffle it around but with limited success.  Eventually it flies off with his huge pouch hanging down.  Not sure whether it will survive as the things sticking into the pouch looked really sharp.

MELAQUE – P40 (£2)

75 MILES

 

FRIDAY 6 MARCH – It is a short drive to take us to Tenacatita Slabs, one of our favourite camping spots.  It is rather like coming home as we end up on exactly the same slab as last year.  Clem & Barb are already here plus Maz and his wife who we met last year.  We are soon set up next to a couple of American families.  The tide is very low and snorkelling difficult.  Stingrays are out in force and a Mexican girl gets a barb in her foot and has to be taken to hospital.  Shortly after an American guy also gets a small sting.  We wear our crocs in the water and swim on the opposite sandy beach.  There are so many people to chat to the day goes really quickly and we also have an hour in the evening at Maz’s.

TENACATITA SLABS – Donation

24 MILES

 

SATURDAY 7 MARCH – For the first day with Sandra we don’t have to move anywhere so lie in until 8.30am.  Lucas & Marcel (the Quebec couple we met in Zipolite) arrive, they have moved from Melaque as loads of Mexicans arrived and played loud music all night.  They opt to park here but further round the bay.  Quite a few Mexicans arrive and set up camp with one car parked right beside us for the shade.  They all like to play loud music but luckily the guy by us has good taste and we like his selection.  Sandra wants to take us out for a meal so we head off for lunch in the village.  At the restaurant with the stone arches we enjoy chilli rellanas (a huge chilli pepper stuffed with cheese and fried) whilst Sandra has a delicious coconut shrimp.  We are pestered with vendors and shoo them all away until we notice one lot coming round with desserts.  The flan (sort of home made crème caramel) is excellent buy it seems strange that they are welcome to wander around the restaurants making sales.  Sandra is almost falling asleep at the end of the meal so we go home for her to have a nap whilst we explore the bay.  It is a really low tide and the coral pools are like aquariums where ankle deep in water you can see colourful fish.  We find a small rock pool with 14 stingray trapped.  Clem hosts happy hour and after a brief gap we re gather for Maz’s evening fire.  This is such a neat spot with friendly people that it is almost tempting to send Sandra on ahead on a bus and stay here for longer!  Although the days are still very hot the nights are getting cooler as we head north and finally we have to put a cover on top of the sheet.

TENACATITA 2

 

SUNDAY 8 MARCH - For our last journey with Sandra we get up early and watch the sunrise during breakfast.  Quite a few people have come out to wave us off whilst Harry & Margot waste no time in relocating to our slot as we back off the slab.  We’ve done this journey coming south before so know it is going to take about 4-hours and it does.  Sandra does not enjoy it at all as she doesn’t like the twisty roads and the bumps give her a lot of pain.  We find it quite scenic especially the last stretch into Puerta Vallarta.  Return to Tachos Trailer Park and get a lovely spot opposite the swimming pool.  Jack & Michelle whom we met in Tangolunda are camped opposite and fill is in on how things work.  After Sandra has had a rest and we’ve eaten we catch a bus to the centre, P5.50 (28p).  The Malecon is much quieter than when we were here last year with Claire & Malcolm and that was also on a Sunday.  Cheeky Monkey still does the $1 margaritas or beers but this year this converts to P13 (65p).  At the bridge over the river it is interesting to see dozens of Mexicans having a great time swimming in the water backed by a fantastic luxury hotel with absolutely no one enjoying their infinity pool.  Sandra wants to treat us to another meal and the place we went to with Claire & Malcolm is closed but further down Basilio Badillo at No 223 is “Asaderos” advertising all you can eat BBQ for P125 (£6.75).  The meal is excellent as it includes cheese and bean tortillas with salsa to start then a huge platter of spicy sausage, chicken, ribs and fajita steak along with peppers, onions, radish, spring onion and tortillas.  We just about make it through the first batch but have to refuse second helpings.  Steve enjoys a game of pool with one of the staff before we leave to catch the sunset at the beach.  Along the Malecon there are lots of food stalls and the ones selling homemade gateau are just too tempting for me.  Walking back Sandra picks up a few souvenirs and we visit Senor Frog shop.  Of course we just have to go back to Cheeky Monkey for a last drink before catching the bus home.

PUERTO VALLARTA TACHOS TRAILER PARK – P290 (£14.50)

124 MILES

 

MONDAY 9 MARCH – Whilst Sandra sunbathes away the day I set about giving Harry a much needed clean up and bringing the washing up to date.  It is a tough call as the swimming pool is really nice here.  Late afternoon Sandra & Robert arrive and stay for a couple of hours.  After supper Sandra & I take a stroll around the campground to look at all the decorative lights outside the motorhomes.

PUERTO VALLARTA 2, TACHOS TRAILER PARK

 

TUESDAY 10 MARCH – Sandra picks up hot dogs for breakfast from Wal Mart whilst I shop.  The airport is a short drive north of the city and we have to stay on the laterals in a large vehicle so miss the turning.  This works out really well as we can pull up by a pedestrian overpass that leads you straight into the terminal building.  I walk Sandra over then leave her to make her way for her flight to Acapulco via Mexico City.  We continue north in the state of NAYARIT             where we should put our clocks back 1-hour but don’t because the tourist sections still work on PV time.  In Bucerias we go onto Tres Banderas campground.  It’s normally $25 (£18) but we negotiate P200 (£10) just for parking.  Robert arrives shortly after and brings Sandra’s brother Phillip to meet us.  In the afternoon Steve goes off with Robert in hunt of a pub showing the Liverpool match.  Sandra takes me on a tour beginning at her sisters home then on to the house that she is now building and there I meet Karen & Claude.  Next we go for a drive around the coast to Punta Mita.  There’s a lovely long flat beach there but it is almost too windy for us to lie down sunbathing for long without being sand blasted.  When we get back I have time to make use of the campsite laundry P20 (£1).  Steve & Robert arrive back after being on a real wild goose chase and ending up in a pub just a couple of blocks from here.  At least Liverpool had a great game and won!  In the evening we join Robert & Sandra in their motorhome parked next to Karen’s where we have a lovely meal of seafood pasta. 

BUCERIAS, LAS TRES BANDERAS – P200 (£10)

13 MILES

 

WEDNESDAY 11 MARCH – We’ve had a bad night disturbed by numerous dogs, roosters and traffic.  However we want to spend more time with Sandra & Robert so will tolerate it a bit longer.  Sandra picks me up for a shopping trip to Mega.  Using the ATM I find out the deposit on the sale of Harry has gone through.  Funnily enough we have had a lot of interest in him recently, someone even came up to us on the campground yesterday to ask if it was for sale, we’ve had an E-mail from an Aussie wanting to do an exchange and even Sandra & Robert were considering selling their motorhome as they much prefer ours.  Having picked up the lads we head off north up the coast.  First we stop at Roga’s Restaurant to see about returning for sunset as it has fine views.  However to get to it you go up in this flimsy outside lift that Steve hates.  There are obviously no regulations here as the door to the outside and the internal lift door can both be left open at any stage and the floor feels like it is liable to collapse.  The views from the terrace are excellent but unfortunately the swimming pool has just been given a shot of chemicals and out of use.  Steve really hates the ride down and this leaves him feeling quite queasy in the car.  First stop is Lo De Marcos where the Tlaquepaque campground is behind a wonderfully artistic hotel.  Although it is on the beach it is so huge that few sites have a view of the ocean and most are just parking spaces close to other RV’s.  There are many other campgrounds in the town but none as nice as the beach free camping we have been finding.  Further along we visit a house they had considered buying last year and then take a very rough road out to Playa de Naranco.  There was a good road out a few years ago and Sandra’s sister Karen camped with her motorhome on the beach.  Today the road is totally neglected and Sandra does well to get us through in her low slung convertible as a 4wd would be much more suitable.  You can no longer drive to the beach as a “security” booth (Mexican palapa with a camp bed) prevents you driving down but you can walk.  The area has been cordoned off with fencing ready for hotel development and we can see why as it is a stunning beach.   It’s late when we get back so by the time we have had curry at our place we opt out of the sunset drinks and just play games

BUCERIAS 2, TRES BANDERAS

 

THURSDAY 12 MARCH – Another noisy night so we are hoping Robert has found us another spot to stay tonight otherwise we will leave.  We relocate to Jose’s garden; he lives between Karen’s and the Ranch.  In the afternoon we all meet at El Ficas (the ranch) to use the free wi-fi whilst enjoying their swimming pool and bar.  Early evening we go to “Mauricio’s” restaurant between Puerto and Nuevo Vallarta to be joined by Karen & Claude.  The meals are all P169 (£8.50) but the price includes seafood soup to start, tostadas with marlin, your choice of main course (many are combo’s) unlimited tequila, fried banana for dessert followed by Kailua and milk.  Steve gets the lobster, prawn, fish and mussel combo and when he orders a beer it arrives with a back up supply in an ice bucket.  It’s not a touristy place at all but has obviously been discovered by the ex pats living here but retains it’s Mexican character.  As we are leaving we spot piles of the “jicama” vegetable and learn that they are there for you to help yourself. 

BUCERIAS 3, JOSE’S GARDEN

 

FRIDAY 13 MARCH - Back on the road again alone and with no particular place to go – what a great feeling.  We check out the resort area of Rincon de Guyabitos but soon realise it is not for us.  Previously we free camped at Chacala Beach but when we drive out there we see the beach road is fenced off.  In the town we learn that Americans have bought it for development and there is absolutely nowhere to now stay in an RV.  Following the coast road we veer inland then drop back to the ocean at Platanitos.  A steep cobbled street takes us down to the beach with a huge, level paved car park behind it.  We are told it is safe to stay there overnight so spend the afternoon on the beach.  It’s a small one but bigger at low tide and backed by loads of restaurants.  Just before nightfall and small VW camper arrives with Claude & Marie from Quebec so we have a bit of company. 

PLATANITOS – FREE

72 MILES

 

SATURDAY 14 MARCH – We’ve had one of the quietest nights for ages with just a few roosters waking us in the morning.  Had it now been the weekend we would probably stay longer but know it is going to be packed with locals.  Unusually for us we check out the next RV Park, Paraiso Miramar, and when we are quoted P75 (£3.75) pp with electric, wi-fi and use of the swimming pools we are in.  Walking round we see Bill & Bonnie whom we first met on the east coast and who also travelled with Kevin & Ruth for a time.  It’s a very nice RV park attached to the hotel with lush green lawns, 3 plunge pools then a swimming pool in another area so we are well catered for and enjoy making full use of them.

MIRAMAR, PARAISO MIRAMAR RV PARK – P150 (£7.50)

12 MILES

 

SUNDAY 15 MARCH – We’ve had a peaceful night and with the Internet we can use a bit more time here to research onward plans.  Tomorrow is a holiday in Mexico so many families are staying here over the weekend.  Throughout the day the pools are constantly in use with kids having a great time.  Late afternoon we play Euchre with Bill & Bonnie then catch up on watch “Long Way Down”.

MIRAMAR 2, PARAISO MIRAMAR RV PARK

I would appreciate a bit of feedback from anyone who reads this blog. 

Please send directly to glenswatman@yahoo.com

This is really my personal diary and photos put on line for people who know my but if you have any constructive criticism as to what you would like to read about, what type of photos etc I will do my best to improve things. 

Many thanks
Glen

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MONDAY 16 FEBRUARY – Kevin & Ruth cycled round the bays the other day to check out the camping by the lighthouse.  It’s an interesting drive out around the bays with lots of fine views.  When we arrive they are parked out on the street waiting for another rig to leave.  It is a stunning spot for the views but otherwise just a gravel parking lot a long way above the beach charging P100 (£5) for dry camping and P200 (£10) with services.  We drive right down to Playa La Entrega where there are numerous parking lots.  They say we can stay for free overnight and this suits us really well as we are a short level walk to the beach.  This is a wonderfully calm bay with really clear water and great snorkelling just off the shore.  Steve says it is the most colourful coral he has seen in Mexico and the best mix of fish.  I try to snorkel but my sinuses make it too painful.  Kevin & Ruth hike down to join us for an hour in the afternoon whilst we are happy to spend pretty much all day on the beach.  We learn that it is a Mexican holiday and this explains the beach being so busy and all the revelry in the restaurants.  Returning to the motorhome Steve negotiates to trade a beer for a fresh coconut.  After drinking the juice they slice out the inside then smear it with chilli and salt for us to eat and it is surprisingly tasty.  The holidaymakers stagger back the bus in fine fettle but once they have left it is a very peaceful spot.

HUATULCO, PLAYA LA ENTREGA

 

TUESDAY 17 FEBRUARY – We head along the coast to the southern most point of our journey at Puerto Angel.  The main Mex 200 is a good road but still winding and up and down hill so slow going.  Turn off and drop down to the traditional fishing port of Puerto Angel (doesn’t sound so nice in Spanish as it is pronounced Ann Hell).  We are pleased we know that motorhomes comes this way as we negotiate narrow streets and twisty lanes along the coast.  About 3km further on we reach the famous Zipolite Beach, the only nude beach in Mexico.  The “main” road runs along the back but between it and the beach is a sand road with palapas, restaurants and other buildings on either side.  There are 3 trailer parks, Fernando’s is landside and we have had reports of people getting mice in their motorhomes.  Mango’s is expensive at P350 (£17.50) and Palms is OK but down in a dip and very hot.  Having parked in the village we explore and find ourselves in a nice back packer type haven with lots of hippy people.  Learn that we can drive along the beach sand road behind Palms to a small camping area known as La Habana Trailer Park and somehow we manage to squeeze Harry onto it.  Negotiate with Mickey to pay P70 (£3.50) dry camping.  Two Quebec couples are just leaving from the top of the beach but we are too heavy to take their spots so settle below but without the view we would like.  It’s not long before we are stripped off enjoying a stroll around the bay.  The beach no longer seems to have naturists at the west end and the whole length is a mixture of nudes (including Mexicans), topless, people in swimwear and others fully dressed.  Lots of alternative lifestyle people can be seen with dreadlocks, doing yoga or practising juggling.  I wonder if a nude person doing yoga would be a “Yogi Bear”!  At the west end of the beach we see really nice attractive accommodation in classy bungalows built up the rock.  There is also a huge hole in a rock where you can watch the waves coming through.  Nearby is a nude restaurant with four-poster beds on the beach advertising nude breakfast for P30 (£1.50) – this seems like just our kind of place.  Other accommodation along the beach ranges from nice motel style rooms down through beach huts to tent camping catering for all but the most discerning visitor.  A Canadian van pulls up opposite us with a nice young family, Jeff, his girlfriend Nat, children Sarah and Isilie and a puppy they have just bought.  We make many walks along the beach (well over 1km each way) and take dips in the ocean, as it is really hot.  Late afternoon we walk the back streets and are amazed to see a wheelchair basketball match in progress.  The youths all have wheelchairs with three small central wheels along with the two inward sloping outside ones.  Nearby at the derelict community centre we find the two Quebec vans that left Habana.  They have a superb spot directly above the beach and moved due to noise from the reggae bar at the other place – think we may be joining them soon.  A local came and asked for P200 (£10) for the week but they told him it was too much and that they didn’t think he had any right to be asking money for them parking on public land.  We would be perfectly happy paying that to be there.  After the beautiful sunset we sit out sipping our drinks by candlelight.

ZIPOLITE, LA HABANA TRAILER PARK – P70 (£3.50)

39 MILES

 

WEDNESDAY 18 FEBRUARY – We were lucky there was no music last night and slept well.  Exercises and jogging along the beach makes a good start to the day and we very happy to watch whilst having breakfast outside.  Walking along the beach we learn the Quebec vans with naturists Gilbert & Lynn and another guy and Marcel had a good night.  Jeff has a friend arriving soon with 3 children and a big rig and it is going to be crowded at La Habana so we pack up and move to the “Casa Communal”.  Parked sideways to the beach we have a near perfect spot for us and set up camp properly.  We can be discretely nude by the van and are right behind the beach with an unobstructed view.  It’s really tough deciding whether to people watch, read, dip in the ocean or stroll along the shore so we mix it around.  The waves are very strong and there’s a bit of an undercurrent so swimming is not good but playing in the waves until you get fed up being knocked over is fun and the water is really warm.  During our second beach walk we meet fellow naturists Paul & Heather from Montreal.  They are also in a motorhome but with a 38’ rig are staying at “Mangoes” but seem a little envious of our spot.  Mid afternoon Kevin & Ruth arrive but opt not to stay by us partly because there are lots of burrs that get in Whiskey’s paws and also they are not so comfortable with nudity.  They move into the central parking area of the adjoining hotel at P100 (£5) so we can still socialise by visiting them – when we are dressed!  After sunset 3 Mexicans arrive asking for camping money.  They approach the Quebec vans and a heated argument begins.  In the end we see them packing up to leave.  When the men come to us they are very friendly, ask for P100 (£5) but we say that is expensive just for parking compared to other places offering more for the same price.  They say then ask for P50 (£2.50) and we get an official receipt.  Gilbert & Lynn think they are “Tres Bandidos” sent by Mickey from La Habana as his brother has the hotel next door where K&R are staying.  He is probably not happy to have lost 3 customers to this spot and sent them over to demand P200 (£10) night.  They really don’t want to pay anything and this is why they leave to park up the back street.  We want to be here for a good few days and don’t mind paying the small price they ask for the comfort of knowing we won’t be asked to move on.  K&R join us for a card evening.  Typing up my diary on the computer I chuckle to find the spell check wants me to change Zipolite to impolite – is that what the computer thinks of naturists!

ZIPOLITE 2, COMMUNITY CENTRE LAND, P50 (£2.50)

1 MILE

 

THURSDAY 19 FEBRUARY – There was a lot of noise with waves crashing during the night.  A strange thing happens here with waves rolling onto the shore, where there is a steep bank, then turning round and heading back out to sea to crash into the incoming ones.  Take our morning walk around the bay before settling into our routine.  The Canadians move back and park in the narrow sand street between the “casa communal” and the hotel.  Although they are speaking in French there is obviously quite a heated discussion going on culminating in the one couple leaving and Gilbert & Lynn moving in properly and setting up their camp. No one has called to collect any money before we set off with Kevin & Ruth for a sunset walk along the beach.  Sunsets here are pretty good with the huge pink ball descending behind the rocks.   Many of the restaurants and bars have glass jars filled with fuel and lit up like candles and we find one offering 2 cocktails for the price of 1, P40 (£2) during happy hour.  Service is really slow but the waitress does bring taco chips and salsa to nibble whilst we are waiting.  We have all ordered a different drink and when she arrives we get two of each.  There’s quite a lot of alcohol in them so I have a hard time continuing our walk to the far end, where the rock hotel is really attractively lit, and back again.  Round off with euchre in K&R’s.

ZIPOLITE 3, CASA COMMUNAL

 

FRIDAY 20 FEBRUARY – We must be getting used to the waves as we sleep in late.  Steve does what should be our last service on Harry.  In the evening we are joined by a French group in a California motorhome and they are kite surfers.  Take an evening stroll around the back streets of the village before an evening of Canasta with K&R.

ZIPOLITE 4, CASA COMMUNAL

 

SATURDY 21 FEBRUARY – Mid afternoon we walk round the block to do Internet, P15 (75p) hour, to finalise arrangements for picking up Sandra on Thursday.  It seems an even hotter day and stays hot well into the evening so we sit out late with our candles.

ZIPOLITE 5, CASA COMMUNAL

 

SUNDAY 22 FEBRUARY – Ending our late afternoon walk we see a sea rescue.  A couple have been out swimming but the guy has ended up quite a long way out and can’t seem to get back in.  The lifeguard swims out to him, fits a lifesaving belt around him then tows him along parallel with the shore before heading inwards.  He’s OK but must have got stuck in a rip.  Apparently many people drown here and one year 26 people died.  Watch a movie at K&R’s in the evening.  We are very reluctant to leave but want to break up the journey to the airport.  Without a deadline we would probably have stayed here for a few weeks as it is probably the best spot we have had in Mexico.  Cheap too as the rent man has only been to see us twice so our 5 days here have only cost P150 (£7.50), bargain.

ZIPOLITE 6, CASA COMMUNAL

 

MONDAY 23 FEBRUARY – Kevin & Ruth are also moving on today but we like to set off as soon as we are ready and this is often before them so we go alone.  The coastal road is slow going but we do pass a couple of nice beaches including one that is famous for the turtle sanctuary, a far cry from it’s fame of years gone by when they used to slaughter turtles here.  Back on the main Mex 200 it is a fast and easy road and a couple of hours after setting off we are at Puerto Escondido.  This area is world famous to surfers who enjoy riding the Mexican Pipeline.  Just before the river we turn down to Zicatela Beach then left along the sandy beach road.  At the far side of the "Hostal" we find a big parking area directly behind the beach and although there is no one else there a local tells us motorhomes often use it.  Just after 10am we are set up with our beach chairs enjoying the view.  Again this is the kind of spot that we could stay for quite some time.  Late afternoon I take a walk to the village and notice lots of nice hotels with interesting architecture.  At the western end of the beach there are lots of bars and restaurants and tourist orientated shops.  An attractive lookout gives you a view along the beach and also into the next bay.  On the beach they are renting out horses and I also see 4 parachutists drop in.  The surf is not that good so although lots of people are out there they are just paddling around.  When I tell Steve how nice it is he goes off to look as well and chats to Clermont and Barb in “Freedom 2”, we keep bumping into them en route.  We enjoy sitting out for sunset and chat to Don & his wife who bought a house here 20-years ago as a winter holiday home to get away from the cold in the Yucatan.  It seems a nice peaceful spot until 11.30pm when a car on the nearby dirt road decides to put a full wheel lock on and drive around in circles until he stalls it.  The noise is incredible but worse still is the amount of dust that he disturbs as we are down wind.  Luckily he only does it once before heading off.

PUERTO ESCONDIDO, PLAYA ZICATELA, NEXT TO THE HOSTAL

45 MILES

 

TUESDAY 24 FEBRUARY – Away by 8am we suddenly realise just how big Puerto Escondido is.  The old town is above the main highway with the tourist part below and both sections stretch a long way.  The road is pleasant enough at the start with enough points of interest to keep us happy.  We have been warned that there are over 200 topes (sleeping policemen) between here and Acapulco and they are a bit of a pain.  There are also lots of checkpoints, the first by Police who wave us through when we pretend not to speak any Spanish.  In Rio Grande there seem to be more Moto Taxi’s than cars.  We are waved through a military checkpoint then have to show our passports at an immigration check.   Passing through Huaxpaltepec we hear lots of music and see a gathering in the square.  We park up to investigate, hear a sort of country style music and see lots of men doing a strange dance.  They are wearing scarves over their faces covered with miniature masks.  It seems there is a story being told as one man pretends to shoot another and we see a whip come into play.  It’s a really hot day and we’ve a long way to go so press on.  At the next military checkpoint they indicate we must pull over.  There’s another motorhome already being searched.  It is the friends of Clermont & Barb and they have been there for ages as the soldiers are going through absolutely everything.  The lady speaks good Spanish and asked the guy what they were checking for and was told drugs and weapons.  He told her that tourists now often carry them through. We are parked in a narrow spot and other vehicles are having trouble getting past us.   There are only 2 soldiers, one to stop you or say you can go ahead and one doing the search.  They don’t stop a single Mexican vehicle whilst we are waiting so Steve speaks to the soldier in English, babbles on about targeting tourists and it is not fair and is a little surprised when they tell us to be on our way!  At the 6^th checkpoint of the day, crossing into GUERRERO state, we are waved through after pretending not to be able to understand their request for permission to search our vehicle.  At about 1.30pm we reach km124 and turn off to drive 7km to Playa Ventura.  This area has a beautiful long beach but little development, a handful of shops, bars, restaurants and rooms to let.  A boy leaps out and tries to guide us to his camping spot but he wants P100 (£5) for a poor spot with difficult access.  There are so many places here with parking options that we check out a few more.  At the eastern end we secure nice parking by a restaurant for P20 (£1) pp including use of showers and toilets.  Set out to explore more on foot and find the road extends further to the west.  Many areas seem to have been fenced off as plots of land for sale in between others that have already been developed.  Almost everyone has a sign up offering “camping” and one has a lovely swimming pool.  There are no campers there but the lady next door tells us we could stay so we negotiate a price of P30 (£1.50) pp and will move tomorrow.  Walking home we spot “Freedom 2” parked at the restaurant next to us.  They are just having a drink and thinking about dinner and parking there but decide to move to the site with the pool once we tell them about it.  If we hadn’t already paid we would have joined them.

PLAYA VENTURA – PALAPA PANCHO VILLA, P40 (£2)

171 MILES 

 

WEDNESDAY 25 FEBRUARY – We relocate to the place where the sign says “Lugar para acampar con alberca” about 1 mile northwest along the beach.  We are the only visitors so park by the toilet/shower block to make use of the water for a clean up.  Since our initial clean up in readiness for our visitor we have camped at the beach and had one side of the van covered in sea spray then had the other side sand blasted by the car doing doughnuts.  Between jobs we enjoy lots of cooling dips in the swimming pool. 

PLAYA VENTURA 2, LUGAR PARA ACAMPER, P60 (£3)

1 MILE

 

THURSDAY 26 FEBRUARY – Off at 7.45am.  Although we still only make 50 km an hour it is an easy drive to Acapulco and we turn off to Barra Viejo to follow the coast road in to the airport.  This looks to be the next area for development as it is only 30km for the city and has a nice beach.  Arriving at the airport we are amazed at how small it is, more like a little regional one rather than an International.  We are too big for the car park so Steve parks in the street no parking zone and OK’s it with security.  Sandra’s flight from Houston arrives on time and I am there to meet her and in minutes she is settled in Harry and we are on our way.  We’ve been advised to take a wide by pass around Acapulco and the first part is a toll road, P73 (£3.65).  We actually think we have gone wrong as we head off towards Mexico City but eventually find the turn off and finally make it down to the coast north of the city at Pie De La Cuesta.  It has taken ages so we think we would have been better going straight through the city.  Heading for the campground we see a great parking place directly behind the beach (warning see Saturdays entry).  Johnny Walker lives there and says he is the security and we negotiate to camp in amongst the palms for P100 (£5) night.  After a snack lunch Steve & Sandra brave the ocean but it is too challenging and Steve ends up giving Sandra a depiction of how easily you get sucked under and lose your footing.  A French motorhome arrives with Dutch couple Peter and Miriam who live in France.  They shipped their vehicle over to Nova Scotia and are on their way to Panama.  The rest of the afternoon is catching up on news from Sandra.  Take a late stroll up the road.  We see an open-air church on the beach with nice views of the ocean through the picture windows behind the altar.  There is an attractive lagoon opposite where you can do boat trips but we now have a time deadline to get Sandra to Puerto Vallarta for her return flight on 10^th March. The boatman does warn us not to go onto the beach at night here, as it is dangerous.   Acapulco Trailer Park is not bad, secure behind a low wall and fencing it is directly behind the beach, has a small swimming pool and free wi-fi.  Negotiate P150 (£7.50) for tomorrow, as we will be out all day.  Return for our evening Chinese meal sitting out looking at the ocean.  Sandra is whacked so we all retire to bed around 8.30pm.

ACAPULCO, PIE DE LA CUESTA BEACH PARKING, P100 (£5)

121 MILES

 

FRIDAY 27 FEBRUARY – After breakfast we move onto the trailer park, which is only about a quarter full.  The local buses run directly past the entrance and P4.50 (23p) gets us a ride for the 15km back to the city.  It takes about 1-hour due to road works and lots of traffic so maybe we did do the right thing going wide yesterday.  The roads are full of VW Beetle taxis painted white with blue hub areas.  It feels like we have walked onto the set of “Herbie”.  Begin exploring at the Zocolo with an unusual cathedral.  Walking down to the waterfront we have to head a long way round before we get a view of the enormous Acapulco Bay with the main beach backed by high-rise hotels.  We take a slow walk up the hill to La Quebrada and stop in a local restaurant for a snack lunch.  Whilst there the beer is being delivered and we are amazed to see Herculean men carrying 4 cases each (96 bottles) on their backs.  If you pay P35 (£1.75) you can get closer to the cliff divers and the price includes a soft drink.  There are no tour buses and few people around so we have a great view.  In total there are 8 divers who begin with fancy dives from a low level building up to the main event.  4 divers climb up the seemingly sheer cliff face, pray at a couple of shrines before checking the incoming water level then diving into the narrow channel.  There’s little else to interest us so we walk down to the bay and catch the bus back.  There are hundreds of buses around so we are amazed to get the same one going back.  It’s easy to tell this as they are all personalised and we are on “Figaro”.  Many of them have themes and fantastic adornment and paint jobs.  Back at camp we all head for a dip in the pool where Steve & Sandra eventually fall asleep. 

ACAPULCO TRAILER PARK, P150 (£7.50)

1 MILE

 

SATURDAY 28 FEBRUARY – We are surprised to see Peter & Miriam on the campground early morning.  Apparently they had a terrible night camped at “Johnny Walkers”.  After we left they pulled their motorhome forward almost onto the beach and stayed there.  In the night they had someone banging on the motorhome, seemingly spaced out on drugs or something.  Then he began throwing rocks at them.  Johnny Walker came out of his house and saw the man had a gun, shouted to Peter not to open their door.  All Johnny could do was open the gate to let Peter back up then drive out (one of the reasons we try to park faced ready to leave).  By that time a rock had hit them between the side windows, but the metal strip in the middle rather than breaking the window and another had smashed through the window in the door and ripped through the blind.  They were terrified so abandoned the stuff outside (we pack everything away each night), drove off and went to the Police.  Apparently the regular Police have no authority on the beach, as this is the domain of the “Federales”.  However they took a report and suggested they parked by the fire station for safety for the rest of the night.  Not sure whether the problem was that they were alone, it was a weekend, they had moved forward onto the beach or they were just plain unlucky but so glad that we had opted to move.  We are pretty late getting away and this gets worse as the road north along the coast turns into a dead end and we have to backtrack all the way past the Trailer Park wasting over 1/1 hour.  The village Saturday markets are in full flow so I hop out to pick up some fruit.  Following the free road sign to go around Tecpan De Galeana we suddenly notice the last sign has “cuota” (toll) added at the bottom.  With little time to make a decision we take it but the lack of traffic soon makes us realise the P43 (£2.20) toll for about 3km is the wrong call.  At Km150 we turn off to Piedra de Tlacoyunque and just over a mile down the rough paved road we reach a parking area directly behind a beautiful beach.  It’s lunchtime and by the time we have eaten and checked around we decide to stay for the night.  One of the men working on fixing up the restaurant says it is very safe and quiet.  To the north there are some unusual rocks like volcanic stuff bubbling up from the ocean and a huge one with two arches.  A man is busy fishing with a net but only catches small sardines.  To the south there is a fenced off area with shade cloth.  Within it are lots of pieces of wooden orange boxes pushed into the ground with dates and numbers.  This is a turtle sanctuary beach and we gather the eggs are moved here, re buried, labelled then near to hatching time a net cage is put over the area to catch the hatchlings.  Presumably then someone takes them down to release them into the ocean.  Again the sea is too rough to swim and Sandra is tired from our early stroll so Steve and I venture south but it is hard going.  In the evening around 9pm a car pulls up nearby with 2 girls and 2 lads.  They are playing loud music but more annoyingly smash their beer bottles as they empty them.  After last night we feel a little intimidated so stay up until they leave at 11pm but they actually caused us no trouble.  Throughout the night we hear the quad bike going up and down the beach, presumably moving turtle eggs into the hatchery.    

KM 150 PIEDRA DE TLACOYUNQUE - FREE

103 MILES

 

 

200902

 

SUNDAY 1 FEBRUARY 2009 – On the road before 7.30am. We soon reach a military checkpoint then cross into TABASCO state and shortly after CHIAPAS where we pay P32 (£1.60) bridge toll.  Further along the traffic is funnelled off to the right for another check but we are waved through.  Sometime later I tell Steve I think we have missed our turning and the name of the next village confirms this.  When we double back we find the turning opposite the checkpoint and veer off towards Palenque.  Heading out to the ruins we must pay P22 (£1.10) pp admission to the national park.  Maya Bell has a pleasant campsite and is the nearest to the ruins.  It is very early in the afternoon and although I prefer to visit sites early in the morning Steve suggests we go there straight away.  The museum is closed on Mondays anyway so we head off up the road.  Admission to the ruins and museum is P110 (£5.50) pp and we begin at the museum.  There are some really impressive artefacts and many of them still have colour.  We wait for the hourly opening of the special area where just 30 people at a time are permitted to entry a recreated tomb.  We watch video and can see the replica stone slabs.  You have to walk another 1 1/2km uphill to get to the site main entrance.  The first area we come to has 3 ruins on the right.  You can enter the centre one and go to where the tomb is.  The left hand one is where the tomb shown in the museum was found but you can’t go in.  The Palace complex is a fascinating collection of buildings as is another group high up on the hill.  It is a beautiful setting on the edge of the jungle, not at all crowded and with just a few vendors lining the paths.  It is different enough to make it worthwhile after all the other sites we have visited especially when we follow the stream downhill back to the museum.  En route we visit more excavations right in the jungle and see some really pretty waterfalls.  We are back at camp by 3.30pm so I have time for a swim in the pool, a natural pool fed by the river water.  Later on Sandra and Robert, from Montreal, pull up next door and tells us they plan to go to Agua Azul tomorrow.  We want to go as well but had heard it was not safe to camp there alone so maybe we will go together.  The motorhome camping is by the restaurant but higher up is the tent camping area and it is like a little back packers village.  Surround a grassy square are palapas with hammocks hanging and people take one over and either put their tent underneath or just set up camp and sleep in the hammocks. 

PALENQUE, MAYA BELL CAMPGROUND – P150 with elect P130 without

 

MONDAY 2 FEBRUARY – Our Quebec neighbours Sandra and Robert agree to go to Agua Azul together but first we want Internet.  They have a tow car so I go with Robert into town to the Super Che supermarket and find perfect wi-fi in their car park and also fit in a bit of shopping.  Could not bring pork or eggs through Campeche so now I have them.  We finally leave around 10.30am and begin the notoriously bad road leading to San Cristobal over the mountains. We take the lead and it seems pretty easy although we do have to cross to the other lane for a broken stretch of road and twice due to fallen trees.  A sign warns us we are in “Zapatista” bandit country but we’ve heard of no problems with tourists, recently!  The twisting narrow mountain road meanders up and down then flattens out in places rewarding us with fantastic views.  We pass many rural villages where people all seem to carry heavy loads on their backs supported by a strap around the foreheads.  Logs and crops seem to be the main things.  There are numerous topes and each one has multiple roadside sellers and we succumb to 4 corn on the cob at P10 (50p).  This seems to be the main crop here as hillsides are covered with them and many people are sat at the roadside with sacks full to be collected.  As always anyone over the ago of about 2 swings a machete.  A couple of times we are halted by people raising a rope in front of us but we just keep driving slowly and smile at them.  In some cases they are just asking for money and other times trying to sell things.  After about 60km we turn right towards the waterfalls and begin a steep 4km descent with hairpin bends.  The National Park fee is P50 (£2.50) per vehicle and shortly after they charge P10 (50p) pp for the waterfalls.  At the bottom of the hill we reach a kind of village area with a large grassy parking area surrounded by restaurants and stalls.  Before we have even begun to park children crowd round us trying to sell things but we just keep smiling and saying “no gracias”.  2-hours driving has brought us just 41 miles.  After a quick lunch we set out with Robert & Sandra to explore the falls.  They are a fantastic blue colour and descend into numerous beautiful pools.  Walking up stream we cannot believe just how many falls there are.  Often the main flow splits into 3 different sections.  In many places you can have a swim and as it is a very hot afternoon we don’t take much inviting. The whole area is incredibly beautiful with lots of lesser, but equally attractive falls, higher up.  In the evening we visit Sandra & Robert in their motorhome and play the domino game “Mexican Train”. 

AGUA AZUL

41 MILES

 

TUESDAY 3 FEBRUARY – It begins raining during the night and by the time we get up there is a lake behind us.  We are ready for our early start but decide to sit it out to see if the rain lessens and the visibility improves.  Finally get away after 9am and notice on the road up that since arriving here yesterday someone has run off the road and buckled the crash barrier.  Back on the main highway over the mountains we have to work our way around fallen trees, pigs ambling across the road, rock slides and people walking along the roadside.  One good thing about the rain is that there are no tope traders, no one holding us hostage with a rope across the road and even the military can’t be bothered to emerge from their hut to stop us at the checkpoint.  We pass through many small farming communities and notice a difference in the way people dress.  It is very slow going, misty much of the time but even without it we can’t go fast.  Manage a 15-minute lunch stop in Oxchuc before being moved on for parking where the “collectivos” should be.  Nearing San Cristobal the terrain changes and we are now in pine forest and notice most of the homes are made from wooden planks.  Pick up the Pan-American Highway to pick up the busy traffic through San Cristobal.  Less than 100 miles has taken us 5-hours.  There’s a campsite by Bonampak Hotel but we’ve also heard you can free camp at the supermarket Chedraui opposite so that’s where we end up.  We clear it with the security guard then Robert gets their car out and drives us all into the city.  It’s pretty cold so for the first time in months we dig out our jeans and thick jumpers.  The church in the Plaza is attractive from the outside and from there we walk up towards Guadalupe on the hill for views over the city.  On return we stop at Santo Domingo and this has an extremely unusual and impressive façade and inside is huge and gilded with an attractive pulpit.  Meet up with Sandra & Robert then stop for a delicious cappuccino, P12 (60p) in the square where we also buy some freshly ground local coffee.  Return to the vans and do a bit of shopping before Sandra & Robert join us for another game of Mexican Train.   Looking back on the journey it was nowhere near as bad as people have made out and very easy compared to many mountain roads we have done in other countries. 

SAN CRISTOBAL, CHEDRAUI CAR PAR

 

WEDNESDAY 4 FEBRUARY – Once the store closed at 11pm it became a quiet night although somewhat chillier than we have been used to necessitating a duvet and bedspread for extra warmth.  The store opens at 8am and I pop in for some fresh bread but cannot believe the crowd of people in the fruit and veg area.  Local women have trolleys full of oranges and tomatoes.  I wonder if the street sellers buy their produce here rather than growing it themselves!  In the morning we join Robert & Sandra for a ride to the mountain villages.  Ethnic (Indian) people still live here, daily dress varies with each village and they have their own language depending on their tribe.  We arrive in San Juan Chamula and it is bustling with people.  Along with a local market there are many women in town with their children as they are running an inoculation programme.  The ladies are dressed in dark skirts with bright coloured, but mainly blue, wool shawls whilst men have a kind of tabard with a belt.  P20 (£1) pp must be paid in the tourist office for a permit to enter the church.  You can take photos from outside, which is beautiful, but not within.  We’ve arrived early and the normally pine strewn floor is bare.  There are no seats so families are sat on the floor in groups lighting small candles and sticking them onto the tiles whilst drinking coca cola – they believe that each time you burp a bad spirit leaves your body.  The men often mix it with a spirit known as “posh” with the idea that when they get drunk they get a warm feeling making them closer to the sun and God.  One man shouts and waves us over to them and chatters away in his local language, we just smile but cannot understand a word.  Shortly after he keels over and is escorted out of the church.  It is a really beautiful scene enhanced by the hundreds of candles.  The sides of the church are lined with statues in clothing and many have mirrors hanging around their necks.  A group of men gather the sacks of pine needles and begin to scatter them over the floor creating a fragrant carpet, they say they do this 3 times a week.  It is a really moving and magical experience and we are the only tourists around.  Leaving the church we see the tour groups arriving so after a quick browse through the market and at the craft stalls we move ahead to Zinacantan.  To enter the village there is a tourist fee of P15 (75p) pp.  Here there are 2 churches in the square, no pine needles but the altars are completely covered with beautiful flowers.  The village women all have purple patterned shawls and we see some incredible large bundles of logs being carried by really old ladies.  At the bottom of the village we visit the museum with examples of local costumes.  The museum building is also of interest being the local wattle and daub style construction.  There is a new toll road towards Tuxtla Gutierrez and it is a fantastic and makes the drop of almost 2,000 metres very easy, toll P67 (£3.45) and worth every penny.  We turn off for Chiapa De Corzo heading for the main square.  A lad comes over to greet us, gives us a leaflet about the boat trip and tells us to follow him for free parking.  Reaching the end of the square he tries to send us down a narrow side street but we are too wide.  Cars are backed up right behind us so we must reverse up the wrong side of the dual carriageway to make the turn to go around the square.  At this point a motorhome comes up the one way street in front of us and we are amazed to see it is Kevin & Ruth.  We manoeuvre round the square to park and chat to them.  They tell us Thomas will lead us to the parking spot and we can make it in the motorhome, they are off to the zoo and will rendezvous with us further on tomorrow.  We do make it down to the boat ramp, harder for Robert & Sandra towing the car.  Within minutes of parking up we realise we can get on the 2pm trip up the Sumidero Canyon so pay our P150 (£7.50) and hop aboard the 16 seater boat.  Heading under the high and wide road bridge we enter the gorge and see lots of birds and crocodiles on the banks. The boatman only speaks Spanish but an Argentinean couple sat next to us translate into English.  It is a really attractive gorge with rock walls as high as 1000 metres.  En route there are some interesting features including a waterfall that looks like a Christmas tree the way it has fanned out and gone green.  At the top of the gorge we emerge onto the lake, created by the 3^rd largest dam in the world.  We have a fast boat ride back to complete the interesting 2-hour journey.   It is a lovely evening so we sit out by the water enjoying some delicious pina colada’s made to Robert’s special recipe.  I’ve cooked a huge pork curry, hoping Kevin & Ruth would be joining us, and Sandra supplies the rice to complete our meal.  Instead of Mexican Train they have a version of the game sequence so that completes our entertainment for the evening.

CHIAPA DE CORZO, BOAT RAMP

32 MILES

 

THURSDAY 5 FEBRUARY – Straight after breakfast we drive up to the plaza before the streets get congested with traffic. In the centre of the square is a magnificent fountain surrounded by a fancy Moorish style arched building.  Once we have used the free wi-fi signal we head off around Chiapas capital city of Tuxtla Gutierrez.  Pulling up at traffic lights we hear a car hooting and a hand waving out of the window, it’s the Argentinean couple we met yesterday.  On the outskirts of Ocozocoautla we drive to Hotel Infantil.  This is a children’s home with about 80 kids ranging from 6 – 22 years old.  You are welcome to camp for up to 5 days free of charge but may be asked to help with English lessons.  We have come armed with educational games and other things that may be of use.   Kevin & Ruth are already parked up but have gone into town.  There are just 2 more places available and we take them.  They are out for the day with 2 other motorhome couples and return late afternoon.  We go off for a ride out with Sandra and Robert to a tourist place just up the road.  12km of dirt track leads us to Sima De Las Cotorras (chasm of parrots) a kind of huge hole in the ground with steep sides and a forest in the bottom.  You can walk around the rim and this takes you to a restaurant where they take the P20 (£1) admission.  There is accommodation and you can camp there (if you can get to it in the first place).  The lady points us to signs in English explaining about the rare green parrots that live there and some ancient rock art on the walls of the pit.  In the evening we enjoy a game of Sequence with Robert & Sandra whilst Kevin & Ruth entertain their German neighbours. 

OCOZOCOAUTLA, HOGAR INFANTIL

37 MILES

 

FRIDAY 6 FEBRUARY – We’ve decided to stay one more day to catch up on a few things.  Robert & Sandra head off but a few minutes later Sandra comes back for help.  Their tow car slipped of the ramp and in their haste to sort it out they have got locked out of the motorhome with the engine running.  Kevin & Steve go to help, manage to get into the motorhome through a small window to deal with the engine problem.  They get the car back on the trailer but then find the motorhome won’t move.  After much research on the Internet and reading our handbook (they have the same base vehicle) they find the trailer coming unhitched blew a brake fuse and now the brakes are locked on.  With a new fuse in place they are ready to roll.  Spend the day on the Internet, doing laundry and odd jobs.  An evening game of Euchre with Kevin & Ruth rounds of the day.

OCOZOCOAUTLA 2, HOGAR INFANTIL

 

SATURDAY 7 FEBRUARY – We had planned to move on today but it is Kevin’s birthday and Ruth has invited us for supper.  It also means we can do loads on the Internet including Steve getting his sports results and catch up with the laundry.  This does not work out at all as the Internet is not on and the water goes off just after I start doing the washing.  At least it comes back on later.  The children here have obviously all got chores to do and we see many of the girl’s hand washing clothes.  We’ve tried to speak to someone in charge here to donate some gifts but still haven’t been able to find anyone and no one has come to see us.  In the evening we are just finishing dinner and Ruth is preparing dessert when the ice cream man calls.  Kevin buys a dish full for P10 (50p) to top off the fruit salad and brownies, yummy. 

OCOZOCOAUTLA 3

 

SUNDAY 8 FEBRUARY – We leave at 7am as we have a long journey.  Still in the mountains we have many more ups and downs to travel but also get fine views.  At La Venta there is a huge wind farm, not surprising as the wind howls down through the valley and fairly wobbles the motorhome.  Opt for the new toll road to avoid Santa Cruz, two tolls P94 (£4.70) and P47 (£2.35) but well worth it as it is a superb fast road and very quiet.  There are a few military checkpoints but pretending we don’t understand a word of Spanish they soon let us on our way.  Cross into the state of OAXACA.  We are both very pleased to get our glimpse of the Pacific Ocean and this is where we join the Pan-Am and head north up the coast.  Just over 7-hours after we set out we arrive at Tangolunda Beach where Robert & Sandra are parked up.  This is a purpose developed tourist area so we are very surprised to find cheap camping right next to the golf course.  There are just a few sites but all are large and there are toilets, cold showers and water so all that we need.  You walk through a forest to get to a lovely beach that takes up the whole bay.  It is backed by luxury all inclusive style hotels and behind them is a small village with tourist shops and restaurants. 

TANGOLUNDA BEACH P50 (£2.50) PP

 

MONDAY 9 FEBRUARY – We are trying to conclude a deal selling Harry to a friend of a friend from England so walk to the nearby Italian Coffee Shop to be sure of good Internet.  Keith & Louise agree to adopt Harry with a provisional plan to hand him over in Houston on 1^st May.  We return and head to the beach and walk all around the bay.  All-inclusive resorts back it and we see people with their wristbands but at the last one “Dreams” people have no bands.  We amble up the steps and watch the procedure before ordering our drinks from the bar – thank you very much.  It is very hot in the afternoon so cooler near the motorhome, not easy to nap, as there are so many amazing birds here with interesting calls.  We are invited to the communal “happy hour” and meet Michelle & Jack and Dave & Joyce with their dogs George and Gracie.  Robert & Sandra join us for an evening meal followed by a game of sequence.

TANOLUNDA BEACH 2

 

TUESDAY 10 FEBRUARY - Sandra takes me for a ride up to the Super Che supermarket and then around the old town where I buy a lovely fresh red snapper for P30 (£1.50).  It is a purpose built town to house the locals who work in the hotels here but looks just like any other traditional Mexican.  Driving back we get superb views over the bays and also stop to explore a couple of others.  Sandra has suggested we go for a drive up to town in the evening as it is all nicely lit up.  Unfortunately late afternoon their car breaks down and they have to leave at a garage.  During happy hour Dave’s dogs begin barking and run off, they have spotted Whiskey who is with Kevin & Ruth.  They arrived just before dark and rather than pay P100 to park here tonight they are parked up in the main car park.

TANGOLUNDA BEACH 3

 

WEDNESDAY 11 FEBRUARY – Robert, Sandra & I walk up to Kevin & Ruths for a ride up into town.  Robert needs to check on the car progress and I am going to do a bit more shopping.  On return Kevin & Ruth move onto the trailer park.  We head down to the beach but return for lunch and a siesta.  Late afternoon we manage another visit to the beach before holding “happy hour” at our place.

TANGOLUNDA 4

 

THURSDAY 12 FEBRUARY – We are falling into a nice routine now.  First thing I sit by the shower block doing Internet, along with so many others it often looks like an Internet café.  After breakfast I do a bit of laundry in the showers whilst Steve does an odd job or two.  Kevin helps him, as today’s is a complicated job fixing the top rear lights that were not working.  Turns out when we grounded we cut off the cable so it is an easy fixed once they have worked it out.  I cook a pork curry for lunch and invite Kevin & Ruth to join us.  Late afternoon we fit in a beach visit and return to see a couple of huge rigs coming into the park.  They are both from Quebec (seems that 90% of the Canadians in Mexico are from Quebec) and one has “just married” on the rear windows.  Think they must be only French speaking, as they don’t seem to want to talk.  In the evening a truck drives through the trailer park with bug spray and we just manage to shut the van windows before we get fumigated.  Round off the days with a movie at K&R’s.

TANGOLUNDA 5

 

FRIDAY 13 FEBRUARY – Well it may be Friday 13^th and unlucky for some but it was lucky for us as we ambled to Dreams at the end of the beach and spent the morning using their swimming pool.  Of course to blend in we had to accept a few of the free drinks as well!  Having agreed a sale of Harry Steve has decided to do some thorough cleaning a bit at a time.  Today he catches his little finger and this causes a huge problem.  He broke it many years ago, then re broke a few years after that and it is now permanently swollen with now cartilage.  It looks like he has done the same thing again today and is in great pain with it.  Luckily he can still manage to play Sequence when Robert & Sandra join us for the evening.

TANGALUNDA 6

 

SATURDAY 14 FEBRUARY – Robert & Sandra have had their car fixed and after lunch we join them for a ride out to Copalita, 10km down the coast.  Bocano Copalita is a beautiful beach backed by attractive rocks and with just a small boutique hotel behind it.  A river divides it and after a bit of a struggle wading across we settle on the banks.  It is great fun to float in the water and let it carry you downstream like a lazy river.  Some local lads are having fun jumping in on the bend from the high rocks.  In another area people are in kayaks and a white water rafting type dingy also floats past.  Unfortunately it is a very windy afternoon so if you are not in the water it is very uncomfortable having the sand blast at you so we don’t stay all that long.  It is Valentines day so 4 couples have decided to go out to dinner in Crucecita.  We get a ride with Robert & Sandra and Kevin & Ruth goes with Dave & Joyce.  Park in the main square by church and head to a fish restaurant in the back streets that Dave recommends.  Whilst waiting for our meal we get complimentary tostadas (sort of big round corn crisps) and ceviche (raw fish marinated in lemon juice and served with onions, hot peppers and olives) to put on top.  I’m surprised to find it is delicious.  I have orders shrimp salad (what Glen eating salad!) and it is a huge plate of peeled prawns with a mayonnaise dressing and onions and red peppers so not enough of a salad to scare me off.  Steve has the fish soup and gets an enormous bowl of broth with squid, massive prawns, a small red snapper and other fishy things.   Afterwards we head to the port at Santa Cruz where Sandra has sussed out a gem of a bar hidden behind the Pemex station.  They are all geared up for Valentines with candles on the tables and music playing in the background.   A nice finish to a romantic evening.

TANGOLUNDA 7

 

SUNDAY 15 FEBRUARY – We are leaving tomorrow so I do a bit more washing and cleaning.  Kevin & Ruth move off mid afternoon as they don’t want to pay for tonight and will stay on the car park.  We head down to the beach and Robert & Sandra joins us for a few drinks and a swim at Dreams.

TANGOLUNDA 8

FRIDAY 16 JANUARY – Well the gods must be looking after us as the rain has finally stopped.  Kathe give us a lift to Immigration offices where we manage to jump the queue by asking a question.  They give us some forms that we must take to the bank to pay for the tourist visa.  Catch a bus to town centre, P5 (25p) then queue for ½ hour to make the P282 (14.50) payment per person.  Next we have to get 3 copies of each of the receipts and the bank obliges us. Taxi back to immigration, P20 (1.00) and again the girl sees us ahead of the huge seated crowd.  She stamps the copies, gives us one back and says we are good to go.  Take a taxi to bus station, P14 (70p) and then on to the 11am chicken bus to Corozal P15 (75p).  It is one of the old American school buses and looks well past its best before date but at least the driver tops up the engine oil before we set off.  We could have caught a luxury Ado bus but for a short journey this is more fun.  At the Mexican border we all get off the bus and proceed to customs to show passports or ID.  The guy asks for our tourist visa, stamps it double entry before asking of our plan.  We explain we are returning and he asks for P100 (5.00) each.  We tell him we have already paid and asked for a double entry visa at the original border and should not have to pay more.  He says no he wants P100 so we call his bluff and say we will not bother going to Belize and stay in Mexico.  He then says OK we can go in for free, just this once.  Over the bridge the next stop is entry into BELIZE.  All very simple and strange to hear perfect English being spoken – due to Belize being British Honduras in the past.  It’s a short ride to Corozal but quite a transition from Mexico.  Signs are all in English and it looks like a Caribbean town with all the coloured people.  Everyone seems very friendly and many say Hello as we pass.  There’s an ATM in square, approx B2.80 = GBP1 so we are soon fixed up.  Bank notes have a picture of very young version of The Queen on them.  The island ferry doesn’t leave until 3pm and it’s only just after 12 so we have time to explore.   Chinese runs most of the shops but all the food seems to be tinned and very expensive, accommodation is not great so we will press on.   Thunderbolt ferry costs B$45 (GBP16) pp and takes 2-hours of very bumpy noisy riding to get us to Ambergris Caye, the island also known as “La Isla Bonita” in the Madonna song.  It’s starting to rain when we arrive and we are disheartened to find our first few choices of accommodation are full.  There seems to be no middle ground just budget rooms and posh rooms at $200 and up.  We drop “lucky’ at Thomas Hotel where he has a grotty cubicle room for B$50 (GBP17).  Well its one of those “no room at the inn” situations and better than nothing.  Dump the bags and set out to explore the small town where golf carts are the main mode of transport.  It’s happy hour in many bars so 2 x rum and cokes for B$5 (GBP 1.80) makes us feel much better.  We’re obviously in for a noisy night as drumming begins at 8pm in a bar nearby.

AMBERGRIS CAY, SAN PEDRO, THOMAS HOTEL - B$50 (GBP 17)

 

SATURDAY 17 JANUARY – We have no problem getting up early to leave and are pleased that it is a dry day.  Sit eating our grapefruit on the beachfront then enjoy a coffee at Estell’s whilst waiting for the ferry.  B$25 (GBP9) buys us a ticket to Caye Caulker with an onward one to Belize City for later.  This is another white-knuckle ride but only takes ½ hour.  Caye Caulker is a more laid-back backpackers type island with sandy streets and again golf cart transportation.  Amble along the shore checking out rooms but once again there are either cheapish grotty rooms or very expensive ones with nothing in between.  By comparison to Asia the cheap rooms are not great value but Ignacio Beach Bungalows seem the best of the batch with en suite cabins on stilts at B$30 (GBP12) if you stay for 2 nights.  Sounds cheap but you have to see them to realise they are little more than garden huts with damp sagging roofs, holes in the walls and smelly bathrooms but we do have a nice view and it’s well away from the noisy part of town.  Set out to explore the island, which can easily be done, on foot, in fact many people wander around permanently barefoot.  In the evening we return to Jolly Roger shack as his evening meal package of meal, dessert and 3 drinks at B$25 (GBP8) seems good value.  The mash and rice are sent from home in a polystyrene tray but the fish or lobster he cooks to go with it is really tasty.  Dessert is a small slice of chocolate cake and the drinks are weak rum and oranges however we do have good company.

CAYE CAULKER, IGNACIO BEACH BUNGALOWS - B$30 (GBP12)

 

SUNDAY 18 JANUARY – Begin our walk heading to the south of the island with an intriguing cemetery, signs give birth and death dates as sunrise and sunset.  The airport is just behind it and a plane is due to land so we step to one side whilst it drops in over our heads.  From there we walk to the north end of the island where the old bridge that connected it to another part was washed out in a storm many years ago.  There’s a nice bar where we buy drinks in order to sit on their loungers.  The channel between the islands is deep and full of tropical fish that we can easily see.  Most of the beaches around the island are marred by sea grass and people really come here to take a boat trip to the offshore reef for snorkelling.  The snorkelling here is not as good as it used to be and it is blamed on the tourists stepping on the reef however having seen that there is no drainage as such on the island we suspect other factors are at play.  Locals here think nothing of swearing even with young children around and often the F word mixed in with a bit of  “Creole”.  In the evening we go to Lloyds Canadian sports bar for the trivia quiz.  We arrive early and treat ourselves to a nice meal only to find that the quiz is off as there is a big American football game on TV. 

CAYE CAULKER 2

 

MONDAY 19 JANUARY – Catch the 7.30am express ferry to Belize arriving in the city 30 minutes later.  We have used to boats to create a circular tour for ourselves but we certainly would not call them pleasure boat trips.  Belize City looks pretty grim if our walk up Orange Street to the bus station is anything to go by.  The 9.15am bus will take us further south but not to Placencia as the road there is too bad for the bus.  We can get off at Independence and get a boat across but opt to make an earlier stop and re plan.  The old American school bus soon fills up and people are left standing.  B$10 (GBP4) will get us to Dangrina in just under 3 hours via the capital city of Belmopan.  This is another white-knuckle bumpy ride with lots of sliding on the seats as we swerve around the bends.  The scenery changes from low lying flooded areas to lots of big hills in the jungle.  In Dangrina we have a problem getting a room, as there is a medical conference in town.  Just about to give up and take a bus further when we find Riverside Hotel has basic rooms at B$25 pp but with no guests she will take B$40 (GBP14) for the two of us.  It’s less grim than the other places we have stayed but we have to share bathrooms.  We are now in a “garifuna” town with lots of Rasta’s who we think originated in Nigeria.  They have a different language but seem friendly people and call out to us as we stroll around.  Many fall in to one of 2 categories, piss heads that have just rolled out of the bar or piss pants that have just crawled out of the gutter.  The beach area is poor but we enjoy just wandering around a getting a feel for the place and have time to check out buses for tomorrow.

DANGRIGA, RIVERSIDE HOTEL - B$40 (GBP14)

 

TUESDAY 20 JANUARY – We catch the 7.45am James Bus to Punta Gorda, B$13 (£4.30).  Although we are on the “express” bus it still takes 3 hours and we drop of and pick up many people on route.  The express bus does have the advantage of having more comfortable seats but by this I mean an inch of foam on each seat and back rest!  Punta Gorda is pretty much the most southern coastal town in Belize and so laid back the locals can’t even be bothered to give it the full name and just say PG.  The driver asks where we want to be dropped of and we ask for the St Charles Inn as recommended in the Rough Guide.  This turns out to be the best accommodation we have seen so far in Belize with small but modern rooms and tiled bathrooms with hot water in the showers.  For B$40 (£14) we take a single room having finally realised that many single rooms mean just one bed but this is often a double bed.  He relays all the satellite TV to the town so his garden is full of huge dishes and he has TV in all the rooms.  We wander around town and everyone shouts a greeting to us.  The main ferry only goes further south twice a week but a local boatman says he has many people wanting to go tomorrow so we will go with him.  Obama is being inaugurated today and the locals are all glued to the TV watching the ceremony.  Most of the people here are the Garifuna, many of whom originated as slaves from Africa so they are very happy to see him as president.  We are happy to have an evening at home channel hopping with the TV.

PUNTA GORDA - CHARLES INN B$40 (£14)

 

WEDNESDAY 21 JANUARY – We both have an excellent nights sleep but linger in bed enjoying our surroundings.  Call in to the snack shack for breakfast and as usual everyone wants to chat.  One of the locals tells us we should visit “Johnny English” a Brit who bought a motorhome in Florida, drove it here and is now building on a plot of land.  We hunt him down along with his Canadian friend Pete just as their wives are going out shopping.  There’s so much to talk about in such a short time as we have a boat to catch.  He shows us his new home and tells us wages are incredibly low here and his workers get $2 (£1.35) a day.  Needless to say he has had lots of snags and work is behind schedule but once finished his 3-storey home with be fantastic.  Meet for El Chato’s boat trip at 2pm.  He charges B$30 (£10) versus the big ferry fee of B$50.  We have to pay B$7.50 (£2.50) environmental departure tax and do brief immigration facilities before boarding the 30-seater boat.  1-hour later we dock in Livingston GUATEMALA and amble up the main street to report to the customs house.  The currency is Quetzal with approx Q10 = £1.  This small town has no land access so has an island feel with very friendly locals.  Tourists come down from Rio Dulce on the river but few stay overnight.  The cliff top hostel has a simple double room with en suite for Q80 (£8) and we are ready to drop our bags off so take it.  Walking around town we end up along the waterfront where we find Marina Hotel with really nice rooms and a swimming pool so decide to upgrade tomorrow for Q200 (£20).  A little further along is the backpackers Casa Del Iguana run by a Cockney lad called Rusty.  He welcomes us and say he is just about to watch “Fools and horses” on TV and why don’t we stay.  He has a dorm and some pleasant cabins with en-suite and although I am fed up of cabins we love the atmosphere and book in for tomorrow night.

LIVINGSTON HOSTEL - Q80 double en-suite room

 

THURSDAY 22 JANUARY – Check out early then walk to Iguana to drop our bags off.  We want to do the beach walk to “Los Siete Altares”.  It is 5km along the back of the beach and takes us 1-½ hours, as there is so much to see.  You are walking along by all the village homes and we also see lots of fishermen.  There are many creek crossings with different sorts of bridges ranging from solid concrete ones down to a single pole.  We are the first visitors at the falls, Q15 (£1.50) and initially disappointed to reach what looks like a concrete barrier across the river with a trickle of water in the middle.  As the trail takes us across it we realise it is a natural rock formation and then upstream we find seven more pools going back into the jungle.  It is really attractive and nice for bathing in but we realise we are not seeing it at its best as there is so little water compared to the photos we have seen where you cannot see the walls between the falls.  Hiking back we hear drumming and chanting and pause to listen.  A fisherman sees us and tells us to follow the path into the village.  Reach a small wooden church and a man comes out to greet us.  He shakes our hands and says he is the man from the tourist office where we went yesterday to ask about the walk.  He is also the village “priest” or equivalent as he invites us into the building then proceeds to waft us with pungent smoke and sprinkle water over us.  Many of the people are white and hippy looking and joining in dancing with the locals.  The drumming gets more intense and barefoot people stamp around on the floor in a kind of trance, we wonder whether he has wacky backy in the incense burner! There seems to be no end to the ceremony so we discreetly take our leave.  Spend the afternoon watching more “Fools and Horses” and chatting to Rusty’s Mum and Dad who are over visiting but have a Post Office in England.  Many people have signed up for Rusty’s family evening meal, Q30 (£3) and it is a local dish of “tapado” a kind of stew with coconut milk.  During the meal we chat to other travellers and end up joining some for a few games of Texas Hold Em, after winning the first one I head to bed and leaving Steve to lose some of our winnings.

LIVINGSTON, CASA DE IGUANA - Q120 (£12)

 

FRIDAY 23 JANUARY – Neither of us get much sleep.  Not only did we hear roosters all night but also dogs were barking and fighting underneath our cabin and people were up chatting until late.  No more cabins for me.  One of Rusty’s cooked breakfasts soon make us feel better especially the extras of brown sauce and marmite on toast.  He really does go out of his way to make you feel at home.  He has booked us on the boat to Rio Dulce, Q125 (£12.50) and this means they pick us up at his place.  At 9.30am our boatman arrives and we head off up the river.  The river soon becomes a deep jungle sided gorge with small homes at the edges.  Turn off up the Rio Tatin to a Mayan school where we are shown the goods that they make.  Further up the main river we stop to bathe in some hot springs.  Hot water emerges into the main river and they have created a pool to hold it back and so you can mix it with the cool river to get a bath at whatever temperature you want.  The river has now widened and along the banks we are interested to see the locals out doing washing and going about their business.  The last part of the 2-hour trip is a bumpy fast ride along the lake to Rio Dulce town.  It seems to be a very busy one street town.  We book on the Fuente del Norte bus to Poptun leaving at 1.30pm, Q35 (£3.50) then walk down to the pier to enjoy our picnic.  The bus is already full when we get on so we have to stand in the aisle.  Steve tries sitting on his bag but when I try it I find you can see nothing but get to smell everyone’s feet.  There are many young people sat down but no one shows any courtesy in offering up seats.  We reach a Police stop and all have to get off the bus whilst they walk through it.  Getting back on we must show identification.  I get back to the area where we were stood and take a seat temporarily, when the youth returns he says I can stay there.   Further on there is a fruit inspection so again we must all get off whilst they do a check.  By 3.30pm we have covered around 100km at get dropped off at the junction to Finca Ixobel.  As we haul our bags 1km up the bumpy drive it begins to rain.  This is a working farm where they grow produce, offer horse rides etc and let out rooms.  They seem to have everything from dorm beds up to private bungalows.  We settle on a double room linked to an unused dorm but with shared bathroom for Q90 (£9).  They are really welcoming and seem to have thought of everything you may need or want to know.  Evening meals are taken in the main house and you can have a single serve for Q45 (£4.50) or all you can eat buffet for Q60 (£6).  The price includes salad, garlic bread and home made bread, soft drinks and coffee and the food is excellent.  It also gives us a chance to meet and chat to other guests from around the world.  The music bar opens at 9pm and is down a track in the forest.  Under our umbrellas we head off down the muddy track for what seems like a mile to reach the welcoming bar with a roaring log fire.  Unfortunately the music is too loud for Steve to talk and even the fire isn’t enough to keep me warm so we just stop for 1 quick drink.

POPTUN, FINCA IXOBEL - Q90 (£9) double room

 

SATURDAY 24 JANUARY – We have had a quiet night even if the rain was a little noisy on the tin roof.  Unfortunately it is still raining when we get up and at breakfast we learn that the Pyramid Mountain is too muddy to climb and the other walking track is very muddy.  We could use a days rest so will still stay here.  They have Internet Q20 (£2) hour, and we find out Judy & Stan will not be visiting us.  Due to fly to Mexico City tomorrow and meet us on the west coast a family illness has caused them to cancel.  Shame we had not known a few days earlier as we would then have had time to go on to Honduras, hey ho.  We visit Nate and Jena in their camper.  They are a young couple that are heading down to Costa Rica in the hope of finding work but using the camper to make a holiday of the journey.  They give us tips about the west coast of Mexico and we can reciprocate with motorhome help.  It clears to a drizzle in the afternoon so we walk to the pond where you could normally enjoy a swim and the water slide but today struggle to stay upright on the muddy banks.  Late afternoon we are amazed to see a French motorhome arriving followed by another with Adrian and Danielle (who we have bumped into 5 times before).  Their trip is going very well but they are chancing it without motorhome insurance.  Again we have an excellent evening meal in the main house.  Our room is attached to a dorm and last night it was empty but tonight holds a group of 8 Israeli’s.  At 11pm we ask them to kindly lower the noise so they turn the music off and talk a little quieter but nothing blocks out the sound of snoring through the night. 

POPTUN 2, FINCA IXOBEL

 

SUNDAY 25 JANUARY – We chat to Danielle and Adrian and realise there is every chance we will bump into them again on the west coast of Mexico.  Nate and Jena have offered us a ride in the back of their camper so we clamber aboard for our trip to El Remate.  They seem to have the perfect vehicle for this part of the world; a 4wd pick up truck with a small but functional camper on the back.  We can’t see much from the back but it is considerably more comfortable than our last bus journey when Steve was sat on the floor.  A couple of hours later they drop us in the wood carving village of El Remate on the edge of Lago Peten Itza (Lake Peten).  It’s a lovely spot and we begin our walk along the street hunting for a room.  A couple of local lads latch on to us offering advice.  We compare a few things along the way and are tempted by a posh hotel with swimming pool for Q200 (£20) but when I see a double room with en suite at Hermano Pedro for Q90 (£9) I begin to wonder, as we will be out all day tomorrow.  The lad thinks I am hesitating over the price and offers a reduction to Q70 (£7).  I go through all the checks as to if it includes tax, whether that is the price for the room for two people etc, if it is quiet at night and then agree to take it.  We can see it is not going to be all that quiet as the accommodation is on the top floor of a house in a wooden room with rooms all the way along so our bed head backs onto the ones in the next room.  Having settled in we explore the village, which seems really friendly.  A road spurs off around the lake and there are lots more rooms available, some a little cheaper with no en suite, but nothing any better.  Pick up a pizza for lunch then return for siesta.  Take our evening meal at Casa Don David where we get a nice view of sunset over the lake.  Our hotel book us a shuttle bus to Tikal for tomorrow morning Q50 (£5) each return.  As usual we have a disturbed night with dogs barking and roosters crowing most of the time.

EL REMATE, HERMANO PEDRO –

Q70 DOUBLE EN SUITE (LATER FOUND TO BE PP) 

 

MONDAY 26 JANUARY – We get up at 5am ready for our 5.30am pick up.  Check out time at our hotel is 2pm so when we get back we will move to the nice hotel.  The mini bus arrives at 5.45am but doesn’t finish picking up others until after 6am so we have no chance of being at the site for sunrise.  Arrive at 6.30am and pay the hefty Q150 (£15) pp admission then stride off purposefully towards the main ruins.  Tikal was a huge city begun around 700BC when the Mayans settled here.  Much is still unexcavated but it is still at least 10km walk to visit most of the major buildings that have been unearthed.  We reach the Great Plaza with two pyramids facing each other.  You can climb one of them although access is by a wooden staircase at the side of it.  It’s very quiet so we press on to Temple V.  This one is much taller and access to the top is by a series of ladders.  Steve pulls out after the first few steps up but I go ahead and enjoy a great view from the top.  You can see Peten Lake and a few other temples poking up out of the jungle.  I am at the top alone on a narrow ledge and about to walk to the ladder when a couple of big vultures land in front of me.  They are now blocking my access to the ladder and don’t fly away as I inch closer.  I creep closer getting great photos and then realise that I am really near to them and they are not going to fly away.  I try shooing them off but only one goes.  I move closer but realise there is no room to squeeze past and am frightened that if I scare the bird it will either attack me or take off in my direction and me with no place to step aside.  Luckily something scares it and it takes off so I make a quick escape.   Meanwhile Steve has been spotting Spider monkeys in the trees.  We amble through the Plaza of the seven temples and the Lost World to get to the back of the park.  We’ve been hearing strange noises like wind rushing through the trees but now realise it is the howler monkeys.  The sound is incredible, like a cross between a roar and a bark and extremely loud and frightening.  We track them down near temple IV only to find they are very small black things.   Temple IV is the tallest at 64m and easy to climb up a staircase so we both head to the top and sit there enjoying the views.  We have really seen all we want to but it is only 8.30am.  Decide to detour out to the temple of inscriptions but the inscription is very basic and too high up to see. Overall we are somewhat disappointed with the site compared to other things we have seen in the past but I guess is this was your first Mayan site it would be really good.  Stop for breakfast at the Jaguar Inn then catch the 12.00 mini bus back.  Back at the posh hotel they have put their price up to Q350 (£35) as yesterday they were empty and had reduced it.  Decide to stay put and it is interesting to see that today we are the only guests at Hermano Pedro.  In the evening we go across the road to watch sunset from Restaurant Cahui and to enjoy one of their delicious pasta meals.  Opposite is a small church and we hear the same singing we heard last night.  Passing the entrance we are invited in and enjoy seeing some very young children sing individually accompanied by a young lad on the drums and the congregation who all clap.

EL REMATE 2 - HERMANO PEDRO

 

TUESDAY 27 JANUARY – We come to pay the bill but they ask double the price quoted.  The girl says the price is per person not for the room but we repeat the conversation we had when we negotiated with her brother.  She then tells us her brother doesn’t work there!  We explain that their rooms are nicer than others but would not have stayed there for Q70 pp as there are many places at Q60 per room and we did not need the bathroom.  End up having to speak to the boss on the telephone and he is not happy but agrees to the lower price.  Next she won’t accept our US$20 note even through their tariff board shows both currencies. Seems a little strange as I go to the restaurant nearby and get Q146 then give here the Q140 as agreed.   It is less than 2km walk out to the main road at Puente Ixlu (El Cruce) where within minutes we are picked up by a collectivo.  Q25 (£2.50) gets us a ride to the border.  Over 1-hour to make the short journey as the bulk of the road is in terrible shape.  We have been told the Guatemalans won’t maintain it, as it is disputed territory and also if the Belizeans invade it will slow them down!  In the border town of Melchor de Mencos we spend our last few quetzals only to find they want a departure tax (having enquired before and told there was none).  They ask for Q20 (£2) then say they will take B$10 but settle for $5 (£3.30) but won’t give us a receipt!  Entry to BELIZE is really easy and we are through in minutes.  We are now in the middle of nowhere and must take a taxi 3km to the town of Benque Viejo del Carmen.  The driver asks US$10 (£7) but settles for US$5.  Chatting en route he says how quiet it is and offers to take us all the way to San Ignacio for a total of US$10 – deal.  He drops us by an information centre and they allow us to use their phone to call our host.  Marcus tells us how to get out to their place at Bullet Tree Falls so we head off to find a collectivo.  B$6 (£3) gets us both a ride to Parrots Nest where Marcus is waiting to meet us.  He’s a really lively guy and tells us that Theo, his girlfriend, runs the lodge whilst he teaches at night school.  Very knowledgeable on the area he tells us about lots of possible trips but they all seem very expensive and I am feeling a bit sickly and not too lively.  He says Theo has also been feeling sickly today as there is a bug doing the rounds.  I think mine is a mixture of aching from climbing the ruins, a chill from cold nights and not enough blankets for the beds, tiredness and bit of sickness.  Theo returns with her children Chloe and Katya and we have a bit of a chat.  They had a terrible flood through here in October and she shows us just how high.  It is amazing how much they have done since then with the help of lot of friends but it explains why our cabin is a bit wonky!  In the evening she takes us into town along with their other guests Rueben and Catherine so we can get a take away from “Hannas”.  By the time we get back both Catherine and I feel too sick to eat any of it.  I retire for an early night but get little sleep due to noisy dogs, roosters and things dropping onto the tin roof.

SAN IGNACIO, BULLET TREE FALLS, PARROTS NEST

 

WEDNESDAY 28 JANUARY – It has been another noisy night with dogs barking, roosters crowing and at one stage one of the dogs on our doorstep scratching then banging its tail on the door.  I’m still not feeling well and although Marcus mentioned tubing on the river I just want to rest.  Katya is also feeling sickly and stays off school.  There are some huge iguanas here and Steve takes great delight in tracking them down, watching them climb the trees and occasionally fall off.  By mid afternoon I’m a little better but Steve is making lots of trips to the toilet with a griping stomach.  I manage a dip in the river in the afternoon.  It’s a gorgeous spot here as the river has a pebbly beach, is clear and warm and deep enough for a nice dip but too strong a current to swim.  Theo is late back as Chloe’s team got further than expected in a basketball tournament in Belmopan.  She sees that I am reading one of their books “P.O. Belize” and tells me the author Kathy Stephens is her mother.

BULLET TREE FALLS 2 

 

THURSDAY 29 JANUARY – The bad night continues as I feel something jumping around in the bed.  By torch light I try to waft it out thinking it must be some kind of bug.  When I wake up in the morning to see a tree frog sat at the side of the bed I am not amused.  I hate frogs and would have really freaked if I had known what it was.  Theo offers to take us to town on the school run so we leave around 8am.  Across the river in San Pedro she drops us off at the bus stop where we buy tickets for the 9am Amigos Belize luxury express bus to Chetumal, $25 (£18).  There are cheaper local buses but that would mean 2 changes and lots of hanging around and as we are both not well we splash out.  The bus arrives on time having left Flores at 5.30am.  It’s a Toyota Coaster and reasonably comfortable but by no means luxurious.  Our luggage is added to the pile already on the roof.  Just over 2-hours later we arrive at the docks in Belize where lots of people get off to go to the islands and others get on.  So many board that we have to put the aisle seats down and even then one person is left standing.  Make it to the Belize border around 2pm and alight to do immigration.  Each person has to pay B30 (£10) departure processing fee plus B7.50 (£2.50) parks and conservation toll if you have been in the country for more than 24 hours.  This is a very slow process with only one clerk.  Back on the bus for a couple of minutes then all off, including luggage, for the Mexican entrance formalities.  This is a breeze and we are through in minutes and still have the remainder of our 180-day tourist visa.  It’s good to be back in MEXICO, almost feels like coming home. By 3pm we are at the main ADO bus station and from nearby take a taxi, P40 (£2) to Kathe’s.  Harry is waiting for us but the gardener tells us Kathe is out on a day trip with a visiting friend.  It’s still hot enough to make it worthwhile us washing out our holiday clothes in the pool.  We are both whacked and I am in bed before 8pm and Steve shortly after. 

CALDERITAS 

 

FRIDAY 30 JANUARY – We have both enjoyed a peaceful night and slept so well we did not hear Kathe return at 9.30pm.  It’s a beautiful hot day with a nice breeze so we take the rest of the washing down to the pool and do everything including the sheets; feel like the women we saw on the banks of the Rio Dulce.  We are both still a bit tired, not 100% well and feeling grumpy but manage to get a few odd jobs done throughout the day.  I check over our banking and find we spent almost £500 on our 13 nights backpacking trip, almost double what we spend in the motorhome and with much less comfort but worth it get a feel of the other countries.  Still feel it was the right decision for us, as we would not like to have taken Harry in without full insurance cover.

CALDERITAS 2

 

SATURDAY 31 JANUARY – We get up late again and Kathe has already left to take her friend to Cancun airport so we leave here a “Thank You” card.  In Chetumal we fill up the gas, get LPG and then do a grocery shop at Bodega, a.k.a Wal-Mart.  Around 10.30am we are ready to head west towards Palenque.  In fact we are now heading back towards USA, as the backpacking trip was our furthest point south.  Our first stop is to buy 3 good sized pineapples for P25 (£1.25), I cut one up straight away and we munch it as we drive along.  Going from the state of Quintana Roo into Campeche there is an inspection point, supposedly to confiscate eggs, pork and poultry.  A solider looks in our fridge then his mate on the doorstep asks if we have beer or coke – I say no even though beer is evident in the fridge.  A few yards further we are stopped for paperwork and they check the vehicle permit and our passports.  The road has been good so far but now becomes a mixture of good old road, bad old road, good new road, badly made new road and road works all complicated by topes either signed or un signed.  Driving here sure is interesting.  Kevin & Ruth came through a few days ago and told us about a Maya Campestre near km52 where they let you park overnight.  It is a lovely spot on the lake and we take a mid afternoon meal in their restaurant.  We still don’t have our appetites back so share a P70 (£3.50) Mexican special fish dinner of a whole fish cooked in tomato, garlic, onion and cilantro and served with tortillas.  3 motorcyclists arrive at the restaurant.  A Frenchman who lives in New York and his friend are cycling to Buenos Aires to set up a business and another American has recently joined them but is on his way to Argentina.  There are peacocks, chickens and roosters here but unlike Belize and Guatemala they seem to have their act together and all crow at the same time!

Hwy 186, Km 52, Restaurant Maya Campestre

148 miles

200901

 

THURSDAY 1 JANUARY 2009 – It is 9am and we are chatting to Carmen getting ready to leave when a taxi rolls up.  One of the Finish girls is unconscious in the front seat.  We manage to rouse her and get her to produce enough money from out of her bra to pay the taxi drive.  Carmen says she got a phone call a few hours ago from a guy in a car with the two girls asking where they lived.  The person themselves sounded drunk so Carmen suggested he put them in a taxi back.  It has taken until now for a taxi to show up but with only one of them, apparently the other has gone off with a man.  Guess they must have had a good time but for girls aged 29 and 40 we are a bit surprised at them leaving themselves so vulnerable although it now makes us less surprised by the story that one of them was mugged in Cuba a few days ago.  Kevin & Ruth want to see the hotel zone so we set off that way and see a few bars still open with customers.  Further south there is only one road and it runs near the coast so you would expect beach access roads.  This is not the case as it is full of huge luxury resorts with security at the gate.  Just north of Playa del Carmen Kevin has found us a Couchsurfing host in Sacbe.  This is a small ecological community inland.  People buy plots of land and build their own homes, using lots of natural materials, and have solar and wind power.  It is all in the jungle and the access roads are narrow with lots of trees so it’s an interesting drive in to say the least.  At one stage Ruth is up on the ladder watching the clearance as Kevin drives below low branches.  Surprisingly we make it to the far end to find the “white house”.  Lynn Earle was born in England, raised in Canada then moved here a few years ago.  She takes us for a walk around, explains the development and shows us some of the cenotes.  Due to the limestone here Yucatan has no above ground rivers but a honeycomb of these underground springs, rivers and caves.  There are many access points; Lynn even has a small one in her garden.  We have all had little sleep so afternoon siestas are the order of the day. 

SACBE

49 MILES

 

FRIDAY 2 JANUARY – Lynn has an open invitation for morning coffee and there we meet Tom & Joanne who are in the process of building a tree house here.  “Flower Bill” and his wife Jacqui have almost completed their home but have just built an extension that is being used by his sister Phemie.  We are invited to look around and love the extension where glass bottles have been embedded sideways in the concrete to create colourful windows with others inset with the necks sticking out to create hangers.  Their bedroom has a double bed that hangs by rope from the ceiling.  Tom & Jacque’s place is the tree house with room sections in different trees linked by skywalks.  Most people have built of wood and instead of windows have a fly screen large opening and a low thatched roof to keep most of the rain out.  Next-door is a huge concrete monstrosity whose owners are in dispute with someone in the community so it has been left to go to ruin.  Tom shows us some smaller cenotes and one has stalagmites that look like the New York skyline.  Early afternoon we set off in a car convoy to the beach.  Most people here have dogs and the nearest good beach that allows them is Xpu-Ha (Pronounced Ish Poo Ha).  Traffic is bad and made worse by the military checkpoint, road works and an accident.  Beach access is restricted but in this area you can pay to park at a campground or restaurant.  They enter at X7 Bonanza, P25 (£1.25) pp per day.  RV camping here is P150 (£7.50) and security tell us there is room for 2 motorhomes but we would love to know where as it is difficult to park 2 cars.  It is a pleasant bay but very busy.  Kevin, Steve & I decide to walk around to check out the camping options.  There’s a huge abandoned hotel nearby but access to their car park is security controlled and they want P100 (£5) per motorhome per night to park outside their gates leaving us a long walk to the beach.  Walking around the hotel it seems odd that no one has resurrected it as it was obviously very nice in its time and doesn’t look beyond repair.   Not sure whether this is one of the hurricane/insurance jobs or a money laundering affair – another Mexican mystery.  Further along the beach there is another campground north of Bonanza where we see Dean & Pinar’s motorhome and Aidan and Danielle’s but they are all out.  Others tell us the monthly rate is $450 (£300) and there looks like just enough space to squeeze us in.  Further along the beach there are no more camping options just an all-inclusive resort and small restaurants without good road access.  Back at the second campground we find the owner, Cellos, and negotiate $10 (£6.50), or P120 a day without facilities and arrange to arrive tomorrow.  It’s far from perfect but by far the best option we have had for ages and we all need a beach fix.  In the evening I invite K&R and Lynn for a chilli in our motorhome to round off the day.

SACBE 2

 

SATURDAY 3 JANUARY – Kevin suggested a 6am start to beat the traffic and get to the campground before the car park fills and blocks our access.  This is deferred to a more sensible 7am but they struggle to make it.  Not to worry as traffic is light and we arrive around 8.30am ahead of the day visitors.  We squeeze between two rigs on a site that no one wants because the electricity is not working whilst Kevin ends up on a sandy space opposite.  Catch up on news from Dean & Pinar and also Aidan & Danielle who have all been here for quite some time.  It would appear that everyone has realised this is the best and most reasonably priced spot along this coast.  Dean also smashed his wing mirror at the same place we did so we help him out with advice on fixing it.  We have a very pleasant morning on the beach then after lunch stroll to Bonanza.  Yesterday we met the parents of an English couple who are motorcycling round the world and want to chat to them.  Simon & Lisa set are 8 years into a 2 year trip but on a more challenging one than us.  At the moment her parents are visiting from England and fellow cyclist Graham is chilling out with them having been inspired by their web site www.2ridetheworld.com.  Late afternoon we walk to the far end of the beach then return for a card evening.

XPU HA BEACH CAMPGROUND

$10 (£6.65)

 

SUNDAY 4 JANUARY – We noticed many topless sunbathers in front of the hotel area so locate ourselves there in order to partake (Steve would have been most uncomfortable being topless alone!).  Ruth has invited us to lunch so we return for that and are joined by Dean & Pinar who also bring along a contribution.  Unfortunately Pinar is vegetarian so her salad and cabbage rice dish don’t appeal to me being a choc-ice and chips kind of girl.  We are keeping out of the sun in the heat of the day so wait until late afternoon to walk south and around a couple of headlands to a cenote that empties into the ocean.  Although the sea and fresh water mix the main pool is mainly fresh and lovely for a cooling dip.  It is so quiet there that we stay for sometime just watching the waves.  Finish the day with cards and a movie at K&R’s.  Reckon we could handle a good few days here.  Kevin is not such a beach bum as the rest of us but he will also be happy as he has managed to buy a 2-week Internet package for P125 (£12.50).  Not such a good night as the beach dogs kept setting of rounds of barking. 

XPU HA BEACH 2

 

MONDAY 5 JANUARY – We break up our morning beach stint with a walk to the north end passing more derelict hotels and restaurants.  In the evening we join our neighbours Andy & Margie for drinks along with Dean and Pinar.  Andy is from Walsall but has spent most of his life living in Germany where he met his wife.  They then moved to Jersey but now live in Alberta.  He has a fantastic stereo system where he bought a satellite package with his new car for $500 (£350) for life.  The fascia can be removed and fitted into a “boom box” which he is now using in his caravan or the full stereo system he has at home.  With it he has 24-hour choices of 100 channels of continuous music and we really enjoy the 60’s stuff.  Margie brings out her rum special drinks; they are almost entirely rum with just a hint of tonic and a squirt of lime.  One is enough for me but Dean & Pinar manage a few more and after we have left we lie in bed listening to their attempts at singing.  Dean is so bad at one point that Steve goes round with a bucket of water threatening to throw it on the strangled cats!

XPU HA 3

 

TUESDAY 6 JANAURY – Morning and afternoon sessions on the beach, a bit of hand washing and an afternoon siesta completes our day in paradise.

XPU HA 4 

 

WEDNESDAY 7 JANUARY – We are getting into a nice routine now.  First thing in the morning we do any odd jobs before it gets hot.  After a morning on the beach we walk up to the cenote late afternoon.  For the first time in ages we get a bit of rain in the evening but we are not surprised as the temperature has been climbing steadily and it usually culminates in a storm in the tropics.

XPU HA 5

 

THURSDAY 8 JANUARY – Call in at Bonanza and chat to the biker’s parents.  On the beach Graham gives us more info on Belize and Guatemala.  He is on his way down to Panama and Central America alone on his motorbike and like so many people sees this as a 2-year trip that may grow!  Kevin & Ruth want to go cycling in the afternoon and ask us to look after Whiskey giving me the chance to use Kevin’s Internet connection.  They go to Puerto Aventura and report of the Dolphin Experience.  People pay big money (prices are only in US$ so that tells you something) to interact with the friendly dolphins in a pool and you can buy combo packages to include manatee and seal experiences as well.

XPU HA 6

 

FRIDAY 9 JANUARY – Dean & Pinar head onwards; we may yet catch up with them on the west coast, although Pinar is talking of flying home from Acapulco. On the beach in the morning we chat to Graham and invite him for lunch.  He is motorcycling down to South America but has previously visited Guatemala and Belize so as he puts it we have a “cross pollination” of information.  In the afternoon I put a colour on my hair and do a mud face pack.  Luckily there are few people around, as I must look pretty scary covered in mud with a shower cap on. 

XPU HA 7

 

SATURDAY 10 JANUARY – Along with Kevin & Ruth we head north to the end of the beach.  We want to look at Xpu-Ha cenote but it is on private land but if you tell the guard you are at a certain hotel he will let you through.  It is part of the Palace Hotel complex but this front area has been devastated by storms.  We reach a lagoon and head inland to find the jungle cenote.  Steve & Ruth do a bit of snorkelling but don’t find anything of great interest and the water is so clear you can see most things without getting wet.  In the afternoon a very early happy hour begins at Andy’s next door.   This rolls on to the beach happy hour where Mike, Jacques and Bill are camped.  Graham calls round to return a book and to load episodes of  “Long Way Round and down” onto my laptop.  

XPU HA 8

 

SUNDAY 11 JANUARY – Kevin spoke to Chelleos yesterday and he said he would come for our money at 8am but of course no one shows up.  We find Victor and pay him the agreed amount.  On reaching the gate we are barred, first they don’t believe we paid and then they say we must pay the regular price of $15 when we agreed $10 just for parking.  They try to get more money from us but we stand fast and say 3 of us were there when Chelleos agreed the price.  We are not surprised as Dean had a similar problem when he had agreed $12, got asked for $15 and between running back to get the difference they told him the exchange rate to pesos had gone up.  Bad business in our opinion.  Anyway we finally get away and 17 miles down the road turn off to Xcacel beach with the turtle sanctuary.  It isn’t nesting season but it is still a nice beach with snorkelling and a cenote.  The guard says the price is P10 (50p) pp admission or P30 (£1.50) if we want to stay overnight.  We ask to look at the beach before deciding.  Kevin & Ruth now have a problem as they would like to stay but pets are not allowed.  The guard says they can walk Whiskey up the drive but that’s all and they don’t want to settle for that.  Meanwhile he has told Kevin the price is P100 (£5) because we have big vehicles (the same ones he saw when we first asked!).  We like it here so opt to stay and catch up another day.  It’s a really quiet beach and we spend the morning at the north end. Between about 1pm and 4pm it is really busy with locals.  The cenote at the south end is approached on a log path through a mangrove forest and quite attractive.  We have a very quiet night with no noise at all.

XCACEL BEACH

P100 (£5)

 

MONDAY 12 JANUARY – We drive out at 7.30am to find the main entranced chained off.  Steve has to go back to wake the guy up to let us out (he said it would be open from 7am).  In Tulum we drive out to the beach area, which has a relaxed backpacker feel with lots of simple huts.  You can stay in the car park of the fishing co-op in the motorhome (P80 pp).  Park up and check out the beach and the view of the superbly located ruins a little further north.  We’re half tempted to stay but our friend Sandra has just book to fly into Acapulco next month and we are not sure how much spare time we have.  The road to Chetumal is good on the whole and we make great time.  Bacalar looks a nice place to stop but it’s raining so the lagoon doesn’t look its best.  RV’er Cathe lives just north of Calderitas and there we find her home “Maricasa” and Kevin & Ruth parked in the garden.  Cathe moved here many years ago and has a large plot of land on the lake with two apartments.  She lives in one and rents out the other but at the moment has family staying in it.   K&R show us around the large garden complete with natural spring flowing into the lagoon.  We get more rain so settle for a card afternoon.  Ruth cooks delicious spaghetti bolognaises for supper and we round of with more cards and travel planning.

CALDERITAS

 

TUESDAY 13 JANUARY – We get heavy rain in the night and the storm is still rumbling when we get up.  I begin packing for our backpacking trip, 2 or 3 weeks around Belize and NE Guatemala.  The afternoon is dry so making use of the water from the fresh water pool we Steve washing the motorhome and I bathe in the pool.  Ruth & I give each other a pedicure.  We want to turn the fridge/freezer off when we leave and have lots of food to eat up so I cook a pork roast for us all at night.

CALDERITAS 2

 

WEDNESDAY 14 JANUARY – We all pile in a taxi to town, P70 (£3.50), as Kathe has booked us an appointment at the dentist.  It seems his speciality is cosmetic dentistry and before I know it I no longer have any gaps in my front teeth as he has built up the two either side of the front ones.  He wants to replace my enamel fillings with amalgam so I will return for that later.  Steve has a check and clean up and my caps are P500 (£25) each as is Steve’s clean up.  Kevin gets fitted for a new bridge and Ruth needs nothing so we are all happy with the result.  Walking through town we try to pay our tourist visa at the banks.  All say that we should have another piece of paper but we all only got one copy.  Eventually a clerk tells us to go to the “Hacienda Federales” where luckily a customer can translate.  We must go to a bookstore and buy a special form, take this to the immigration office on the outskirts of town, get this completed, return to the Hacienda to get it stamped and then go to the bank.  Tourist office tells us immigration is open until 4pm but we arrive to find it is only open 9am - 1pm.   It’s all a bit of a pain as we planned to leave first thing tomorrow for the border and may yet do that and take a chance.  We still have a bit of food to use from emptying the freezer so invite Kathe, Kevin & Ruth to join us for cottage pie.  Kathe tells us we should have no problem at the border as many people just go into the “free zone” for the day so we could sail past without handing in our tourist card.  She also tells us a huge storm is heading for the Yucatan peninsula with winds up to 120 kph.  Discussing it later we decide that we can’t take the risk as re-entry without the original card means they only give us one for 15 days and this is too short.  Guess we are British and not used to messing with officials!

CALDERITAS 3

 

THURSDAY 15 JANUARY – Get up to more heavy rain, certainly not the kind of weather conducive to back packing.  We have a taxi booked and intend to go to the immigration office and make a final decision based on their information.  Whilst waiting we talk ourselves in and out of the trip plan many times and when the taxi doesn’t show up we see this as an omen that we should not go.  Kevin has a problem as his fridge has stopped working, double problem as Kathe already told us hers was too full to store any food for us and ours has been turned off and we are almost out of gas.  Steve helps Kevin who decides to try and dry the connections with a hairdryer.  He then finds his generator won’t start but in the process the exhaust pipe drops off.  Mid afternoon we try our generator to try and help Kev but our battery is too low for it to kick in.  Talk about a day when things go wrong!  Kevin has been on the Internet and tells us he can see no sign of the approaching storm and in fact it should be better weather on Sunday.  Late afternoon it has dried up and we reassess our trip with me doing a "for and against" list.  Finally decide we will take our luggage and go to immigration in the morning and if we sort out the tourist card payment and they can assure us we can come back in for the remainder of the original 180 days we will proceed. 

CALDERITAS 4

200812

MONDAY 1 DECEMBER 2008  - Driving through, Casitas we get lots of people coming out trying to coax us into their restaurants.  When Steve and Kevin cycled through no one bothered them at all!  Just after Nautla Bridge (toll P31, £1.55) we take a detour down a rural road shown on the map to run between the coast and a lake whilst the main road veers inland.  The cobbled road improves when it turns to dirt.  This is obviously farming country and it is interesting to see the fences they use.  I’m guessing they originally planted saplings to use as posts for the barbed wire and these have grown into huge rows of trees many of which have large anthills in their forks.  On the poorer farms they have used Mexican barbed wire – the big round prickly parts of the cactus stuck into the ground and overlapping.  Many village homes are made from thin wooden poles stacked either horizontally or vertically. We see neither the lake nor the ocean but it is a very interesting drive. Back on the main highway we pass many banana plantations and fields of sugar cane.  Just north of Veracruz we turn off to go to Playa Chachalacas.  A section of the road is closed with road works so we follow the locals on a complicated detour.  I begin writing it down on a scrap of paper and my line falls of the side and then off the top of a second sheet!  Eventually reach the beach area lined with restaurants and shops.  It’s pretty bleak and made worse when we reach the southern end to find the parking area has piles of black sandy tar piled up.  Lorries seem to be ferrying the stuff on to the beaches, we think to fight the erosion problem.  Don’t know what the long-term plan is but it sure looks ugly at the moment.  We try the northern end of the beach beyond the village and find just a few homes.  There is no obvious parking place but a local directs us onto what looks like an unused garden.  It is a superb grassy field above the ocean and once parked up we see people sat around a table nearby.  Steve & Kevin go to ask if we park overnight and they say yes but want P250 (£12.50) per motorhome.  They are either having a bit of a laugh, as this is more expensive than any of the fully service campgrounds, or they don’t want us here.  Further back towards town is another garden where the lady is very pleased to let us both park and wants P25 (£1.25) each.  Our walk around the village doesn’t take long and doesn’t inspire us.  Still it is a good overnight stop meaning we can tackle the Veracruz by pass early tomorrow.

PLAYA CHACHALACAS

 

TUESDAY 2 DECEMBER – It has rained almost all night so we are up early but decide to wait until rush hour is over before leaving.  We’ve heard that Veracruz is motorhome unfriendly and those who have attempted to drive through it have often been fined on trumped up charges. It’s easy to get around it on the by pass (P59, £3 toll) but going is slow as usual.  At a complicated road junction youths offer to hold the traffic up to let you cross for a fee.  Going over numerous railway crossings a man is expecting a tip for standing waving a flag to say it is clear, doesn’t the fact that he is stood there give us a clue!  Alvarado is a traditional town between the lake and the ocean and we hear there are good fish meals at the Port Authority restaurant.  Driving to the port is through busy streets but at least we are following a bus so know there is room.  We can’t find the restaurant and it is chaos but we do park on the malecon and have a laugh at a local having his go cart towed by a motorbike.  The main highway takes us away from the coast and up through the hills towards the mountains.  There’s a Soriana supermarket on the edge of San Andres Tuxtla so we make a quick shop stop.  Another motorhome appears in the car park.  Peter, Gabi and 3-year-old Tommy are from Germany and come over regularly, buy a motorhome and tour.  They are going onwards to the same campsite as us and we agree to share a boat trip tomorrow.  On the edge of town we stop at the Santa Clara cigar factory to watch them in the making.  Lake Catemaco is a lovely spot with a very rustic “La Ceiba” camping on the edge.  Had Peter not been parked up we would have driven right past.  The boat trip is arranged for 9am and we settle in.  We hear the beautiful and unusual calls of many birds and feel like we are in the jungle.  Unfortunately at sunset hundreds of birds return to nest in the trees beside us and make a terrible noise for about an hour

LAKE CATEMACO, CAMPING LA CEIBA P100 (£5) no electric

130 miles

 

WEDNESDAY 3 DECEMBER – The noisy night birds also spend an hour screeching beginning around 5.30am and this wakes us all up.  After they have stopped it is hard to get back to sleep over the noise of the regular birds and traffic.  Hector takes us all off on the boat.  Boat trips advertise 12 attractions but most are very minor things such as the fisherman statue on the Malecon (the same one you see walking along), a small shrine, a posh house and a run down factory that used to bottle spring water!  Another stop is a place where they bottle a powder to mix with water for mud face packs, P150 (£7.50) for a large jar.  On the eastern shore of the lake at “Nanciyaga” (www.nanciyaga.com) you pay P50 (£2.50) per person to be guided through the rainforest.  The guide only speaks Spanish but gives us a sheet in English explaining the highlights.  We are led through the forest on a meandering track over a swing bridge above natural springs.  Medicine Man staring Sean Connery was filmed here.  Visitors can pay extra for mudpack facials, massages, bathing in the hot springs and spiritual cleansing.  They have a good deal on the overnight stay at P1000 (£50) for 4 people including treatments and I am quite keen for us to do it on my birthday but that would be difficult with Whiskey the dog.  Next stop on the tour is Monkey Island where university students imported a type of baboon to study then realised the boatmen were taking tourists to the island and feeding them bananas and stuff.  The trip ends after 3-hours.  A very pleasant ride overall and a good indication of the size of the lake and at P50 (£2.50) pp good value.  Steve & I are ready to leave tomorrow but Kevin & Ruth would like to stay longer so check out alternatives in the area.  They walk to the other campground Hotel Tepetepan and say it is better than this one but the pool is not open and it is more expensive.  Steve & Kevin cycle to Hotel Azul where you are supposed to camp but they are initially reluctant to offer camping and then do so at a high price and are way out of town.  In the afternoon we walk around the town, that’s the nice part about camping here as we are near to everything. The church is very impressive with a Madonna shrine above the altar and nicely painted walls and ceilings.  Late afternoon Steve & Kevin go to the local snooker hall and are happy to be able to play for P2 (£1) hour and drink family sized huge beers for P22 (£1.10), the guy is amazed that they have one each instead of sharing!

LAKE CATEMACO 2, LA CEIBA

 

THURSDAY 4 DECEMBER - The birds are driving us crazy so Steve & I walk to Hotel Tepetepan campground to see if it is quieter.  Leo & Judy, whom we met at El Tajin, are there along with their friends Don and Gwyn.  We chat over coffee and they say their birds are also very noisy.  Early afternoon Leo & Judy arrive in their 4wd and Don & Gwyn in theirs.  They invite Kevin, Ruth and us to join them for a ride out to the waterfalls.  “Cascade Salto De Eyipantla” are at the end of a bad road but it turns out we could actually have driven it carefully in our motorhomes.  Car parking is in a square surrounded by stalls and with children waiting to pounce on you the minute you step out of your vehicle.  Manage to make our way through the mob to the stairs that lead to the falls, P6 (30p).  Descending more than 200 steps we reach a beautiful waterfall, slightly curved, wide and quite high with an impressive flow and enough spray to give us a bit of a shower.  They are much better than we were anticipating and well worth the ride out.  The children continue to harass us back to the car and even on the road out one has a last try by having a rope across the road that he raises and asks for payment to drop it to allow you to cross.  Considering it is not much more than a piece of string held down by a stone at one end it is no real threat.  Return for a long happy hour session outside our motorhomes.  The others have heard that there is a confirmation ceremony in town at 5pm so we walk in together.  Market stalls are selling the mud pack stuff at P70 (£3.50) for the jars that were P150 yesterday and by the kilo for P30 (£1.50) and Ruth & I decide to share a bag.  In the centre of Catemaco a stage has been erected where they are piling cases of water and cardboard boxes.  Lots of people are seated obviously waiting for the main event. Leo goes for a wander and appears on the balcony of the town hall and waves for us to join him.  There are a few Mexicans up there but many small balconies so room for us all.  We have a grandstand view and feel a bit like royalty, especially when the announcer on stage points up to us and has the rest of the crowd look up and wave.  Not sure what he is saying but everyone is laughing and seems friendly.  We have no idea what the presentation is about but deduce that it is not a confirmation but more like the hand out of Christmas care type packages.  As we walk back to our campground the others hear our birds and comment that their noisy birds are nothing by comparison, had known that we would have moved there this morning but with only one day left it is not worth it now. 

LAKE CATEMACO 3, LA CEIBA

 

FRIDAY 5 DECEMBER – It’s my 52^nd birthday and I would have loved a lie in but the birds have not been notified.  It is also a drizzly dull day so my ideal of being on a beach in the sun is totally shattered but hey not having to go to work and not being in and English winter is still a bonus.  Kevin & Ruth come round to wish me a Happy Birthday, give me a card and a voucher invitation to a gourmet lunch, and for a 2^nd rate back massage, facial with mud mask, pedicure, manicure and hair styling at my convenience.  I appreciate a surprising number of birthday text messages, E-mails and comments on Face book.  Lunch is a tasty curry followed by an excellent home baked cheesecake.  Unused to drinking much I started with rum and coke, had wine with lunch and kahlua in my coffee so a brief siesta is in order.  Steve & Kevin can’t resist an afternoon fix of pool.   

LAKE CATEMACO 4, LA CEIBA

 

SATURDAY 6 DECEMBER – Making an early start is not difficult although how we can wake up at 6 and not leave until almost 8am beats me but the water is slow to fill and they have a gravity defying dump station!  The free road to Cosoleacaque is pretty good but even so progress is slow.  Join the main dual carriageway towards Villahermosa and pass numerous trucks decorated with “Guadalupe” religious themes and loaded with people.  Our guess is that this is some sort of pilgrimage as in front of each truck is a runner with a naked flame torch.  We turn off to La Venta the place where some huge Olmec heads were found in an ancient site.  They also found oil in the same area and this took priority so they moved the relics to a museum in Villahermosa.  It’s a long slow drive out to the coast with many sections rough gravel.  The local transport is mainly “triciclos”, various versions of pedal bikes or motorcycles either towing or pushing a carriage for passengers.  Mexicans seem oblivious to rubbish but in this area they have made a bit of an effort and piled it beside the road out of town.  A great place for bird spotting if you could stand the smell!  At Sanchez Magallanes we reach the coast but beach access is difficult.  There’s a restaurant car park just over the bridge, the parking area and beach are full of rubbish and it’s not great so we continue.  It seems to be a very poor area with most homes very simple basic shacks.  We seem to be driving through huge coconut palm plantations with big hills blocking the beach; even the lagoon on the other side can only be accessed through private property.    We are a bit disappointed, as we had envisioned a nice parking spot for a few days. Things get worse when we see the road ahead has collapsed into the ocean.  There is diversion down a rough track down through the palms and Steve walks it to make sure we can get through.  Having started the drive a motorcyclist comes towards us and tells us there is a bigger problem 2 miles further ahead, the road is completely gone.  We must continue the diversion then turn around and repeat our weaving through the trees.  Luckily Kevin waited to see how we got on.  Backtracking is a bit quicker as we are no longer looking for beach access.  Bahia de Acapulco restaurant car park that did not look good before now looks most appealing, especially after 7-hour driving.  The owner says we can stay overnight.  They play music a very high volume but fortunately close when it gets dark.  Throughout the night we get a number of cars visiting us with music blaring then in the early hours the dogs begin barking so not the most restful spot but safe anyway.   

SANCHEZ MAGDALLENES, BAHIA ACAPULCO RESTAURANT CAR PARK

169 MILES

 

SUNDAY 7 DECEMBER – The next beach west involves a couple of kilometres detour to Playa Palebot.  We spot a makeshift sign to “La Playa” and Steve and Kevin find out that it is access through a farmer’s field.  He says we can park there in the motorhomes overnight and walk 200 metres over the hill to the beach.  The family come out to look at our strange vehicles, don’t suppose too many motorhomes pass this way!  Driving through the farmyard is interesting as “Eduardo” has to open a gate to let us into the cow pen then lock us in whilst he opens an exit gate.  Kevin gets through but we are 6” wider than him and a tree branch obstructs us.  Eduardo jumps up to break it but ends up bouncing a couple of times before it snaps, much to everyone’s amusement.  We take a spot at the far end of the field near the palm grove leading to the beach.  Walking along the beach we see no one else at all and cannot understand why such a nice beach is not more popular.  Granted there is debris on the beach but we think this is from the storms.  In the afternoon Eduardo and his family come to visit us and his son shins up the tree to get us fresh coconuts.  With his machete he makes it looks so easy to cut into them and prepare them for drinking.  The cows are unafraid of us and totally oblivious to our presence but enjoy licking the salt off the motorhomes.  Now if we could sprinkle some all over we could get the whole van washed.  

PLAYA PALEBOT, EDUARDO’S FARM

P50 (£2.50)

 

MONDAY 8 DECEMBER – We’ve all had a nice quiet nights sleep, even if Kevin & Ruth were disturbed at one point with a cow rubbing up on the bikes at the back of their motorhome.  Steve & I spend the morning on the beach and find the water is pleasantly warm.  Unfortunately once I have been in the water the sand flies begin to attack me so we beat a hasty retreat.  Eduardo’s sons come over to visit and bring more coconuts.  They hang around wanting to either chat or just observe us but their English in non-existent and we struggle but they do seem to enjoy looking inside the motorhome.  We learn they are called Remigio (11) and Manuel (9) and 2 of 9 children.  Their sisters Maliza and Alberta also come down.  Think they have heard we have been giving out small gifts.  Whiskey helps entertain them by performing a few tricks and then they watch us playing cards and learn the phrase “pass”. 

PLAYA PALEBOT, FARMER EDUARDO’S FIELD

 

TUESDAY 9 DECEMBER – As usual we try to leave by 8am to give us chance to arrive at our destination by lunchtime and time in hand for unforeseen delays.  Before we even get off the farm we have a delay.  The track is narrow and we have to wind between trees and tree stumps.  On the two-way radio we warn Kevin of a narrow bit with a stump but he has the sun in his eyes and misjudges it.  We get a call to say they have totally wrecked their doorstep and are stuck.  Walk back to find that it is no exaggeration and the two-tier step has been ripped off and is mangled up against the rear tyres.  It seems to have bent back easily but when Steve & Kevin try to push it back into place it is impossible and they end up having to take it all off.  Knowing the resourceful Mexicans there is an outside chance of a repair so Kevin puts it in the locker.  We return to the main highway towards Villahermosa but take the free leg, which is a good run.  Head back out to the coast at Paraiso but have great trouble finding the recommended beach there.  Finally give up, as the signage is poor at best.  We pick up the road heading east along the coast but on the outskirts of town encounter a junction with a triple vertical stop light over the left lane and a seemingly broken light over our lane.  As soon as we continue a motorcycle policeman on the opposite side turns around to pull us over.  We tell Kevin & Ruth to keep going but the policeman indicates for them to pull up ahead.  He speaks no English and we pretend to speak almost no Spanish but hand him our fake English drivers licence and vehicle documents and understand he is accusing us of going through a red light.  He jabbers away in Spanish and we present him with our phrase book but he doesn’t want to book accommodation, catch a plane or visit the doctor so it is not much use to him.  We point to the phrase “sorry” and hope he will get frustrated and let us leave.  A local comes over and seems to be telling the policeman to let us go.  He gets his book and is poised to write a ticket.  At this point the local suggests we might want to pay the policeman something.  This was the line we were going down ourselves but didn’t want to seem to eager to offer a bribe but now seems a good time and P100 (£5) makes him a happy copper.  Kevin & Ruth, who have pulled up ahead, get off lightly as it seems our donation covers us all.  Making a slow and cautious exit through the rest of the town we begin an enjoyable drive past interesting lagoons and though many small villages.  Here the people seem more prosperous and we even see some huge new mansions being built.  It’s amazing how they use such bright and clashing colour combinations on the outside walls, bright pink with orange and lots of lime green with electric purple.  Leading up to Christmas many homes have small shrines set up in their entryway and the churches have flags outside.  Just before Chiltepec we turn off at a sign to Playa Belotte and at the end of a 1km track find an area to the right with parking by palapas beside a closed down restaurant.  It’s not a brilliant area but most acceptable in the middle of the afternoon.  Sit out on the beach until sunset.

CHILTEPEC, PLAYA BELOTTE

 

WEDNESDAY 10 DECEMBER – Drive around the cute little village of Chiltepec before managing to find the main road out.  Further along the coast The Rough Guide recommends Playa Azul and this turns out to be an attractive beach at the end of a main road with a nice grassy area for motorhome parking.  By 9.30am we are settled in our new spot sitting out looking over the ocean.  Kevin sets about fixing his step whilst Steve and I go for a walk into the town.  There’s a large school, a small public library (with less books than we have) and a couple of shops so thankfully not a lot to explore, as it is really very hot.  Kevin & Ruth join us for lunch followed by a card session.  They take Whiskey for a walk and I intend going for a swim before showering but notice the sky has suddenly turned very dark and decide to skip the swim part.  I have just got soaped up when it starts to rain heavily.  Steve has to bring all our stuff in and shut the windows and do what he can for Kevin & Ruth as they are not back.  The storm gets much worse with very strong winds and torrential rain.  Think someone must have forgotten to tell the weather that the hurricane season finished at the end of November.  Join Kevin & Ruth for evening cards and part of a movie.   

PLAYA AZUL

 

THURSDAY 11 DECEMBER – After a noisy night with the wind and rain hammering us we get up early.  Steve & Kevin are not keen to drive in this wind so we will sit the storm out here.  When the rain stops Kevin & Ruth go for a walk and tell us the school seems closed today, the children were there yesterday so this is strange.  Later in the day we hear lots of firecrackers going off so maybe there is some kind of celebration.  Take the opportunity of fixing up one of the 2 new blinds that we have bought and then spend the day reading and playing numerous games of cards with our neighbours.  Talk through a new tour plan that will put us on a campground in Merida city over Christmas and Cancun for New Year.  Feels a bit like New Year already with all the firecrackers going off but they are not a nice type and just make a terrific single bang like a loud gun shot, Whiskey hates them

PLAYA AZUL 2

 

FRIDAY 12 DECEMBER – The storm seems to have passed but it’s not a great day so the consensus of opinion is to drive a bit further.  I read up that it is a public holiday today for the “Virgin of Guadalupe” so that explains the rockets and also the pilgrims that we saw as their banners said Guadalupe.  It seems that celebrations vary from nothing up to whole villages congregating together for a communal meal.  At the junction with the main Mex 180 we stop at the Pemex station for gas, water and when we notice they have a proper dump station we make us of it after having a nice shower.  We are now on the “Ruta Sol Y Playa”, route of the sun and beaches so right up our street.  Near Frontera we turn of to Playa Del Bosque, for the first time we are on the worst level of roads shown on the map.  It’s a bit bumpy in parts and narrower than normal but we can still make it through and traverse wetlands with lily ponds and water buffalo.  The beach area is not worth the journey as we cannot get to what looks to be the best part and the alternatives are not great.  Entering Campeche state we are stopped and a nice guard who speaks reasonable English inspects our fridge for pork, chicken or eggs.  We knew these we banned so ate them rather than have them confiscated.  Mex 180 is the main highway along the coast and runs between the ocean and lagoons but also a swampy area with mangroves.  In Atasta we find a nice parking spot for lunch by the lagoon but it’s a bit early to stop for the night.  An impressive bridge leads us onto Isle Del Carmen; at least we can see where the P123 (£6.15) toll money goes.  Attempt to drive along the malecon but the road veers off into the town and looks narrow.  Luckily we have an escape route around the main square and the added bonus of seeing the really impressive Christmas decorations that they are just putting up.  Can’t quite make out whether it is a gingerbread theme or Disney but all looks beautiful.  Driving around Ciudad Del Carmen in no fun, even with their interesting roundabout features.  It’s the usual busy city traffic that seems to go on forever with the added worry of missing a red light!  We would rather have the little villages with all the topes than this. Further east we leave Isle Del Carmen over another expensive toll bridge, P121 (£6.05) and check out the free camping we have read about in Isla Aguada.  It’s at the old ferry port but not inviting and in a very poor area where kids keep calling out wanting money.  The nearby campground is our back up plan and at P240 (£12) night Steve & Kevin expect great things but are not impressed.  All the people there are from Quebec and parked very close together along the shoreline.  We would have to park on a bit of waste ground at the side.  The price is totally non-negotiable even if we don’t need electric etc so we decide not to stay.  It’s a difficult decision as it is almost 4pm so we head off quickly.  For the first time in Mexico we drive for miles with a very narrow strip of land between us and the beach and no possible places to park up.  I even consider asking the military if we can park in their compound overnight when we reach a check point.  Just as it is starting to get dark we spot a restaurant on the beach with a big car park.  Viaducto Playa is on the Peninsula El Palmar and the owner says we are fine to park overnight and safe because they live there.  Other than the fact we are near the road it’s a nice spot.  So having set off around 8.30am it is almost 5pm when we park up and still only 154 miles covered! 

PENINSULA EL PALMAR, VIADUCTO PLAYA RESTAURANT

154 MILES

 

SATURDAY 13 DECEMBER – We have a restless nights sleep and wake to a beautiful morning.  This is a lovely beach area but not an option for another night.  Before we are ready to leave with see 8 motorhomes going past in a caravan, probably the ones we saw in Isla Aguada campground yesterday.   Unfortunately we catch up with them in Champoton and have to queue behind them at the gas station.  Reckon it must take them the best part of an hour to get through as many have tow cars to tank up as well.  No one acknowledges us even though we smile a greeting.  We hope they are taking the main highway to Campeche, as we want to cruise along the coast road.  “Tucan Siho-Playa” is an amazing hotel created by resurrecting an old henequen fiber ranch.  They have wi-fi so we sit outside doing Internet and manage to get our Christmas messages.  There is a grassy area adjoining the hotel so maybe we could camp there and use the hotel facilities.  The receptionist thinks it would be OK but the manager will not be back for a couple of hours.  We will continue and phone up later if we haven’t found anything.  Seybaplaya is a small traditional and interesting fishing village where the boats have large poles angled out at the front and back of them.  Just beyond the village a local directs us towards the port at Payucan saying there is a beach around to the right of it.  It is a narrow road but we make it to the beach area strewn with derelict palapas.  It’s not looking good until I walk to the end of the road and discover a disused basketball court behind the ocean.  With hard standing parking and our own mini beach with a palapa each we are very happy.  Kevin even manages to get a feint Internet signal from the port.  On our right is a loading ramp and mid afternoon a couple of tub boats arrive and begin to tow the huge platform, complete with cranes, out to sea.  As to what they are collecting or delivering we have no idea but suspect the platform is some kind of dredger. 

PUNTA SEYBAPLAYA, PAYUCAN PLAYA

63 MILES

 

SUNDAY 14 DECEMBER – Wake to a perfect day after a nice quiet night.  Whilst I take a morning dip Steve has a bit of a snorkel but says it is too cloudy.  A few people come down throughout the day but it’s pretty quiet.  After watching an evening movie at Kevin & Ruths we hear loud music.  Steve goes for a walk and realises it is not from our beach area but sounds more like a disco over the hill.  Unfortunately it goes on until after 1am.

PUNTA SEYBAPLAYA 2, PAYUCAN PLAYA

 

MONDAY 15 DECEMBER – Kevin & Ruth are keen to move on this afternoon partly due to the noisy disco and fisherman this morning.  We rather like it here so will catch up with them in Campeche.  It’s granddaughter Natasha’s 9^th birthday so we walk up the hill to the port to get phone signal and send her a message.  It is so hot in the afternoon that I keep wandering over to our private beach for a cooling dip. A few clouds gather late afternoon giving us a really stunning sunset with the sky on fire.  Instead of the disco we get a car parked nearby but their music is much quieter and doesn’t go on so late so we get a good nights sleep. PUNTA SEYBPLAYA 3, PAYUCAN PLAYA

 

                                         

 

                                         AND ALL THE BEST FOR 2009

 

Seasons greetings once again as another year has flown by.  Hope this finds you well and that you have had a good year.

 

                                                     

 

On the family front we have hatch, match and dispatch news. 

 

There has been one addition of a great niece Ebony (born to Steve’s sister Annette’s son Stuart) and Glen’s sister Annette is getting married to Ian next March, happily no deaths to report. 

 

Health wise Glen’s Mum had a hip replacement operation early in the year and was walking well but later in the year had a fall and needed the other one replaced.  Steve’s Dad had a pacemaker fitted in November and sounded better for it.  Everyone else is doing well. 

 

Claire is working with the same company and starting a course to become a chartered accountant whilst David is presently back fitting windows.        

 

We are both very well and needless to say still enjoying our nomadic lifestyle after an unbelievable 12 years on the road.  Many new friends have been made with the people we have visited through the various hospitality groups we are members of and this has enhanced our travel experience greatly.

 

At the end of last year we were in Mexicotouring around with our Canadian friends Ruth & Kevin following in their motorhome. We made it all the way down Baja California and at the tip of Cabo San Lucas had our English motorhoming friends Claire & Malcolm fly out to join us for 5 weeks. 

 

We shipped across to Mazatlan on the mainland where Kevin & Ruth headed off to Florida.  Touring down the coast we visited many small fishing villages then dropped Claire & Malcolm in Puerta Vallarta before venturing further south – alone in Mexico for the first time. 

 

All the horror stories we had heard proved unfounded and we had a fantastic time and found the people extremely friendly, helpful and with a good sense of humour.  We enjoyed Mexico so much and the motorhome was going really well that instead of selling it and ending our trip in June we decided to return to Mexico for the next winter. 

 

After a most enjoyable journey through  Texas, Louisiana, Alabama and Georgia we picked up the coast to travel through Florida to visit our friend Ricky in Miami.  There we had a good time being shown the area by a local and were glad not to have to drive the motorhome in the horrendous traffic. 

 

Near Orlando we parked Harry at Cypress Cove Resort.  Our Australian friends Ken & Kay flew in to visit us and to “house sit” whilst we flew back to England for 5 weeks. 

 

It was great to catch up with family and friends but after a couple of weeks the English summer weather was getting to us.  We’d had only ever had E-mail correspondence with fellow motorhomers Arf & Jean but arranged to meet up with them to do a 1 week cruise on the Nile in Egypt.  It turned out to be a fantastic trip with African Safaris in good company.  Even taking into account all the things we have already seen we were seriously impressed with the different temples and the pyramids.

 

When we flew back to Florida we took our youngest grandchildren Natasha (8) and Daniel (10) with us.  They had never been on such long flights before but coped admirably.  For the first time Harry had to accommodate 6 of us as Ken & Kay stayed on for a few nights.  It worked out really well although holding the maximum of 8 would have been pushing it.

 

We had a great week at Cypress Cove resort, and must have increased the profits of the sunscreen companies judging by the gallons we slapped onto the kids.  Moving up into Orlando we had bought 7-day tickets for Sea World and Aquatica and got great pleasure from seeing Daniel and Natasha enjoying the rides and shows. 

 

After 2 weeks Claire & Daz flew out to join us on the Disney campground.  This was the focus of the holiday and we visited every Disney attraction at least once and managed a break at the coast in the middle.  Having our grandchildren alone for 2 weeks and then the whole family together worked out really well and it was quite strange once they left. 

 

Reckon we must have picked up a hurricane special price as we got a real deal on a 4-day cruise to The Bahamas at the beginning of September.  Unfortunately Steve walked into a glass partition wall in the departure hall and almost knocked himself senseless, or did he?  Coupled with the change of cruise itinerary due to a hurricane coming through things did not work out quite as well as we had anticipated but we did enjoy half a day in Nassau and now want to visit more Caribbean islands.

 

We took our time following the coast back to Texas, met many new friends and really enjoyed places like New Orleans and San Antonio.  In November Kevin & Ruth met up with us to return to Mexico  This trip is to be down the east coast, across the bottom then up the west.  At one stage we hoped to drive down to Panama but the high cost of insurance was the last of many obstacles that we encountered and we threw the towel in on that plan.  We still hope to do a few of the countries in Central America by back packing from southern Mexico.  We think we will be spending Christmas on a campground on the outskirts of Merida city and New Year in Cancun but nothing confirmed.

 

Next spring or summer we will sell Harry and move on to pastures new.  If you know of anyone who wants to buy a very well laid out, reliable and much loved motorhome  then do let us know.  As a bonus we would leave all the contents and provide information on registration and insurance etc.

 

It is always good to hear news from our friends and family so please send us an E-mail when you have chance.  Visitors always welcome especially whilst we have this large motorhome.

 

I will be posting my diary entries and a few photos twice a month on the web site www.glenswatman.spaces.live.com but if you would like to receive the diary by E-mail once a month then please let me know, as I will be starting a new list for 2009.

 

Also when my laptop died I got a new one with Vista and this will not open my address file so I would appreciate it if you would tell me which E-mail address you prefer to use, your mailing address (and home address if different), phone numbers etc so I can begin a new one.    

 

Love and best wishes from

Steve and Glen

 

SUNDAY 16 NOVEMBER – We sleep well, even though I have to get up and put a second duvet on when it gets really cold, and don’t wake up until almost 8am.  I do a last minute stock up of things that are hard to find in Mexico such as strong cheese, beef and bacon.  Kevin has a problem with Sherman and needs a new alternator.  Drive him across town to pick one up as he can fit it himself.  By mid afternoon he has figured that the new one is faulty and that another must be ordered.  Whilst it’s a very convenient place to park, and shop, you can’t exactly set your table and chairs out so we play cards in Sherman in the afternoon and again at our place after I have cooked us a roast dinner.  Steve’s taking this very seriously as he has organised a league table for the time whilst we are with Kevin & Ruth

BROWNSVILLE 2, WAL MART

 

MONDAY 17 NOVEMBER – A bonus of being parked here is that every time I think of something we need I can nip in the store and buy it.  Reckon I am averaging a visit every 2 hours so Mr Wal Mart will be pleased.  Steve also cashes in and buys and fits Harry with a new air filter.  There’s a motorhome parked next to us and a ticket in the window says it has been unattended for a work.  Security are getting a bit concerned, we hope there is no one dead inside it.  Police and other people are called to assess the situation.  We miss the outcome, as Kevin needs taking to collect the new alternator.  Call in at Staples to do some photocopying.  We’ve been advised to get good colour copies of all documents and to laminate copied drivers licences to avoid handing over originals.  Staples are not allowed to do this but you can use their self-serve machines to do it yourself.  The results are really excellent.  Arrive back at Wal Mart when Kevin asks for their driver’s licences back.  We beat a hasty retreat to Staples to find them all still in the machine!  The alternator solves Kevin’s problem so we are mobile again and head to host Shawns place where he has said we can park in the street.  Behind his house is a network of canals and a picnic area.  Pull up and Steve checks with the neighbours opposite that we are not going to be a problem.  Everyone in this area is Mexican looking, very laid back and not the least bit bothered by us being there.  Ruth, Whiskey and I take one of the many walks around the canals and it is really pleasant.  Unfortunately Shawn never arrives home, we think this is a second home, but we stay the night anyway as one of the neighbours works for the council and says it is OK.

BROWNSVILLE 3, HOUSING ESTATE

 

TUESDAY 18 NOVEMBER – The news from England is good.  Steve’s Dad had a pacemaker fitted today and is back on the ward drinking tea.  My Mum is now walking on just one stick and physio is down to once a week.  At 7.45am we head to the Veterans International Bridge, $7 (£5) motorhome toll.  Good parking by a redundant gas station enables us to walk back to the American immigration to hand in our visas.  On the Mexican side we are flagged over so they can check the 10-year permits for the vehicles that we got last year.  We stay in line and walk to the office for the tourist visas.  A few yards further we are stopped for another inspection, this time just a walk around by armed guards.  Drive into MEXICO in the city of Metamoros.  Immediately join the ring road and using the “Mexico Campground” directions connect to the main Mex 101 road south towards Victoria.  It is obvious we are in a Mexican city, poor and congested roads, haphazard traffic and people actually walking around!  There are lots of places to get propane (could have saved ourselves quite a wild goose chase on Saturday) so we top up and head off.  Roadblocks are frequent but the guards are all very courteous.  The final one is more thorough as we have to step out of the motorhome whilst a guard and dog go inside.  The dog bounces round on the bed then the guard lifts the bed to check the storage underneath and does the same with the sofa.  Reckon I should have put newspaper on the cream bedspread as well as over the new carpet.  The guard asks where we are from and associates Great Britain with London.  He then goes to Kevin & Ruth and asks if Great Britain is connected to Canada!  They try to explain whilst Whiskey barks at the guard who then decides not to enter their motorhome.  We’re in flat farming country, traffic is light and the driving is easy once we get into Mexico mode of pulling half onto the hard shoulder to let people pass.  Stop in the first largish town of “San Fernando De Presas” to use the ATM.  Last year we were getting Pesos 22 - £1 this year it is down to just under Pesos 20 but that is not bad compared to the drop in the USA $ from over $2 to £1 down to less than $1.50 = £1 this last few days.   Where we turn off to Tampico on the Mex 180 there is a gas station with huge parking area and this works well for lunch.  Too early to stop for the day we press on into hilly country.  Unfortunately the RV dry camping by Lavanderos Lake, mentioned in Sanborns log, no longer exists.  A few miles South we cross the Tropic of Cancer marked by a crumbling small yellow ball.  We only have a couple of hours daylight left so at the next Pemex station, about 15 miles south, we ask if we can park overnight.  The friendly owner leads us to a grassy area round the back and he and his mate seem very happy with a couple of beers each as payment.  There’s a big American coach here and Steve & Kevin chat to the owner.  Kevin Mayo owns a fishing camp 1/8-mile from here and invites us to walk over and visit tomorrow.  Sitting out on the lawn Kevin cooks up hamburgers for us on his BBQ then we round of the day with cards.

15-MILES SOUTH LAVADEROS. PEMEX STATION

217 MILES

 

WEDNESDAY 19 NOVEMBER – The fishing camp is on the edge of the lake.  When we get there the Mexican manager shows us around and explains the set up.  Fishermen are brought here from Louisiana on the couch the front of which is like an RV at the front with lots of lounge seating, a dinette, kitchen and bathroom.  However the rear half has been built with 3 tiered bunk beds to sleep 12.  AT the camp they have simple en suite accommodation, get their meals in the dining room, drink in the palapa overlooking the lake and of course go fishing every day.  We tell Kevin it would make a great RV stop and he asks us how to promote it that way.  Continuing our journey south we pass many ranches as we traverse the hilly green countryside.  Aldana is the largest town for miles so we do a quick shop but the few internet signals are secured.  Its 39lm of often rough and pot holed road to the beach.  It looks like a very pleasant area with a few restaurants, palapas with tables and dubious looking electric sockets and a grassy area at the far end, which is where we pull up.  The nearby restaurant owner introduces himself, tell us we are fine parking there and offers water, electric and whatever else we may want.  Of course he also mentions we can drink and eat in his restaurant which we will in due course.  We soon have our camp set out and spend the rest of the day relaxing.  Kevin is very happy and says this is just what he has travelled 3000 miles for.  Ruth treats Whiskey with some pesticide drops to stop her getting fleas and ticks.  We join them to watch the DVD Juno, an unusual and funny story about a teenager who gets pregnant.  By evening Whiskey is not a happy puppy.

BARRA EL TORDO BEACH

54 MILES

 

THURSDAY 20 NOVEMBER – We had a bit of rain in the night but it is hot and sunny by 8am.  Kevin & Ruth had a bad night with Whiskey and ended up having to wash the rest of the stuff off.  Take a long walk south along the beach but other than some palapas that could only be reached with a 4wd along the beach there is nothing but miles and miles of sand.  I invite K&R to join us for lunch and we sit out having a curry enjoying our beachside setting.  The beach gets busy in the afternoon with locals walking along, some kids playing football and a few youths messing around in a yellow Corvette jacked up on truck 4wd chassis.  We go in for a swim and the water is the perfect temperature.  Can’t understand why more motorhomes don’t come here.  Cards at ours in the evening and we refresh K&R’s memories on canasta.  Occasional rain through the night but if it’s going to rain then that’s the best time for us.  

BARRA EL TORDO 2

 

FRIDAY 21 NOVEMBER – Unfortunately cooler weather is coming in from the north and bringing a bit more rain.  Pass the time playing Euchre at K&R’s in the morning and Canasta at ours in the afternoon.  Delivery vans drop off supplies, tables and chairs to the restaurant for the fishing competition.  Watch a DVD about the supposed 9/11 conspiracy in the evening but instead of answering questions it just raises more.

BARRA EL TORDO 3

 

SATURDAY 22 NOVEMBER – It’s the day of the fishing competition and the guy has a marquee out on the beach but seemingly no entrants.  It is a poor day but we also suspect that his advertising was a bit sketchy to say the least.  Decide that we will all go over there for lunch and have a most enjoyable fish dinner for Pesos 50 (£2.50) each and this includes tortilla chips and extremely hot salsa to start with.  We are his only customers so Claudio seems happy to have our business and hangs around chatting to us.  We suspect that the beer company Tecate have sponsored the competition as the party tent and other stuff has their Tecate Light sign on and that is the only drink he has to sell.  He has postponed it until a week tomorrow.  Tell him we will probably leave tomorrow if the weather is not great and he tells us of a short cut road to Tampico, at least we thing that’s what he has said. Apparently this northerly wind has brought cold weather to much of the states with Houston getting ice.  The beach is busy in the afternoon, kids playing football, quad bikes racing along as well as the jacked up Corvette.  Good entertainment.   

BARRA EL TORDO 4

 

SUNDAY 23 NOVEMBER – Back track towards Aldana then take the turn off towards Maron.  The road is reasonable for the first few kilometres but becomes pot holed and bumpy.  Kevin is in the lead and we take note of his slalom course to avoid the worst holes.  Our map does not show a bridge over the River Tiger connecting with the onward road but Claudio assured us there was one.  We arrive at the river with no way forwards.  When we get out of the motorhomes we are very happy to see the bridge upstream.  Getting onto it is a bit of a challenge as the ramp leading up to it is just a pile of large pebbles.  Beyond the bridge the road is good and we pick up speed.  This is a citrus growing area and we do a drive through style purchase of a bag of Satsuma style oranges for P10 (50p).  Tampico is a nightmare of traffic but again the Mexican Camping book gives us good directions to lead us to the otherwise un-sign posted by pass.  At the first toll both we are charged the cargo price of P39 (£2).  The road deteriorates so we can only assume the toll was for the stretch before it.  A second toll of P10 (50p) gets us over a bridge and on to a really shocking stretch of road where pedestrians make quicker progress than vehicles.  We’ve chosen to do some driving today figuring traffic would be lighter but there are still lots of trucks around and the road is very busy.  Drivers have little patience and overtake on blind bends and going up hills.  As if the bad road surface is not slowing us down enough we have to contend with the “topes” (sleeping policemen) in the villages.  Many of them have no warning so locals have taken to standing at the edge pointing them out in the hope of a tip.  It is really slow progress and hard work for the drivers so when we see an RV park we check it out.  They will not negotiate the $15 (£7.50) for camping with no facilities and say that we must park right near the main road in a muddy area, no thank you.  To avoid Tuxpan we take the Alamo by pass.  It’s getting late so we settle for free camping at the first Pemex that we see.  They sell diesel as well as regular petrol so it is frequented by trucks but at least we will be safe and in fact further off the road than at the campground.  We settle on a spot at the back near some grass.  Stepping out of the vehicles we are surrounded by young children.  They want to clean our windscreens with their dirty water and mucky rags!  Attempt to have a bit of a chat with them but they won’t go away.  Decide that if we give them all a small gift they will leave us in peace but it actually makes them worse and we end up wishing we had not bothered.  Shut ourselves inside the motorhomes until they eventually go away.  After 7 hours hard driving we have come just 187 miles but it feels like much more and we are all exhausted and opt for an early night.  Unfortunately a truck pulls up right beside us and seems to have engine problems as they keep returning to it and revving it up then going off again.

N OF ALAMO, PEMEX 4131

187 MILES

 

MONDAY 24 NOVEMBER – Set off fairly early and find the road improves somewhat, well relatively so!  There are many really big topes that almost make you come to a stop and vendors make the most of it by standing there with their wares.  Pull up at the roadside stalls and pick up a huge bag of oranges for P20 (£1) and a bunch of 40 miniature bananas for P10 (50p).  Make a wrong turn into Poza Rica but this works well as we stop at a gas station to ask directions and find ourselves next to the local market.  The produce looks very good quality and we pick up tomatoes at P10 (50p) kilo, onions P12 (60p) kilo, potatoes P8 (40p) and 2 green peppers for P10 (50p).  All the stalls charge the same price so Ruth and I meander amongst them and try to by a little from each one.  Further along the “wrong” road we see a huge Soriana supermarket and do our first proper grocery shop in Mexico.  We’ve been seeing signs for El Tajin archaeological site for over 200km’s and this is our destination a bit further south.  Entrance to the site is down a dual carriageway but street stalls have covered more than half the lanes meaning we almost hook and handbag with our bumper.  The parking attendant says we can stay overnight and the charge is P20 (£1).  Settle in to a corner spot and have lunch.  Admission including museum is P48 (£2.50).  The museum gives us a good overall picture with the model of the site.  Once we enter the real site we are impressed by the large collection of buildings.  We wander through the area reading signs pointing out the function of the most important buildings, in Spanish and English.  You can no longer climb any of the pyramids but we do get an overview from the hill at the far end of the site. Whiskey to dog has been allowed in and when a fellow tourist takes a photo of us all together it makes me think we look like an older version of Enid Blyton’s Famous Five checking out the mystery of the ancient ruins!  Highlight of the site is “The Piramide de los Nichos” and the best example the 13 ball courts is the south one with some good bass reliefs.    At the entrance to the site “The Voladores de Papantla” perform their ritual dance that involves 4 men gliding down from the top of a pole on a rope.  Late afternoon another motorhome arrives.  Leo & Judy are from British Columbia and have been coming to Mexico for 11 years but never to this area. 

EL TAJIN

51 MILES

 

TUESDAY 25 NOVEMBER – Make a late start for the coast.  Navigate the notoriously difficult Papantla easily (from El Tajin, left to Papantla, left at T junc sign Poza Rica and Tecolutla, right at next T junc sign GZ Zamora, straight on until you veer right onto main Mex 180 to coast).  Toll over the bridge is P31 (£1.60) and then we reach the coast. It is obviously a holiday area as the road is lined with stalls selling beachwear.  The main road runs very close to the beach leaving just enough space for small homes, hotels and tiny campsites, impossible for us to access.  Kevin needs Internet and has negotiated to stay at D’Alba, which looks really nice on the web site.  Mike meets us at the gate, says the best price they can offer is $90 (£60) week or $15 (£10) night if we don’t take electric, a bit of a joke as the electric is off anyway and they only have power when he runs the generator.  It all looks a bit run down but we reluctantly take a spot near the beach thinking that maybe everywhere is the same.  Mike dashes off into town before we get chance to check things out thoroughly and realise how bad it is.  It is a cloudy day so we are not seeing it at its best but even so there is no Internet and the swimming pool has not been cleaned for ages.  When I go to have a shower the toilet block is dirty, there is only cold water and the walls are mouldy with paint peeling off.  None of us are thrilled so Steve & Kevin go off on the bikes and come back with news of a much nicer place further on and cheaper too.  Leave a note for Mike and head to Mision Del Mar Hotel with a lovely big swimming pool and grassy camping area beside it.  Beyond the swimming pool towards the beach is a huge concrete pad backed by a big wall with a giant cross.  Suspect that this is the “chapel” their sign mentions and boy would it make a stunning location for a wedding.  Although the shower block is clean and tiled there is no hot water but they give us a key so we can use the bathroom in one of their hotel rooms.  P70 (£3.50) pp per night also includes electric and Internet – no contest.  Spend the afternoon catching up on messages.  Steve goes for a stroll even further along the beach and makes us laugh when he says he has found an even better deal.  It doesn’t have Internet but everything else at Casitas del Tajin is on a par with this place and even cheaper at P47 (£2.40) pp so may move there tomorrow.   

COSTA ESMERALDA, (JUST N OF CASITAS) MISION DEL MAR HOTEL CAMPGROUND, P70 (£3.50) pp inc electric

44 MILES

 

WEDNESDAY 26 NOVEMBER – Wake to a lovely sunny day so we all go for a walk along the beach to check out the next place.  It is as Steve reported and you can camp directly above the beach on hard standing, much better for Whiskeys paws than the grass with prickly things.  Having caught up with our Internet we decide to move.  After a nice swim in the pool at Mision Del Mar we pack up to drive a few hundred metres to our next spot.  We take the last two sites before the beach as the only other camper, Jim from Kansas, has taken one further in.  Literally a few metres from the beach it will probably be noisy with the waves crashing in but we’ll take ocean noise over traffic any night.  In fact looking along the coast it looks like some people are trying to extend their properties onto the beach area using different types of barriers.  This doesn’t always work as we see many “half houses” hanging on the bank with the broken walls in the sand below.  Whilst Steve & Kevin go off for a cycle ride I make the most of the nearby water supply to begin giving the van a thorough clean.  The lad’s return and joke that they have found a cheaper place, they have at P30 pp a night but they say it is really grotty and this seems to be the best around.  When we come to pay we find out that they have a sliding scale and have arrived at the cheapest time but it goes up tomorrow.    We are all very happy here so don’t mind and we can see the logic behind it other than the Thursday night increase.  During the cycle ride they also found a bar with TV showing football in the next village of Casitas so Steve & Kevin go off in the afternoon for Steve to watch the match and Kevin to do Internet. 

COSTA ESMERALDA 2, CASITAS DEL TAJIN CAMPGROUND

Sun – Wednesday camping is P47 (£2.40), Thursday night P58.50 (£3), Friday P70 (£3.50) and Saturday P80 (£4) per person

1 MILE

 

THURSDAY 27 NOVEMBER – Thanksgiving Day in America but more importantly Ruth’s birthday.  When she comes back from her morning jog she thanks us for our gift and card.  We’ve collected a couple of coconuts that have fallen from the trees and Steve & Kevin attempt to get into them to make a pina colada drink for Ruth.  We’ve seen it done before, very easily with a machete, but with an axe and saw it is far more entertaining.  There are now self service laundries around here so we set about doing a load by hand and soon have it out on a line between two palm trees. We invite Ruth and Kevin to “Harrys at Casita El Tajin, waterfront restaurant for lunch.  Improvise a menu giving them lots of choices.  For main course they can opt for Chilli con carne, Glen’s spicy stew or mince with onions, peppers, beans, garlic and chilli!  We’ve got a stunning location with the table out on the terrace.  Steve acts as the wine waiter with a tea towel over his arm and the 5-litre box of red wine balanced on top.  We begin our meal with nachos served with warm cheese sauce, sour cream, salsa and Mexican sauce.  When we get to the rice and chilli con carne I realise I have forgotten to add the chilli but we manage to pep it up by adding hot salsa.  Fresh fruit salad in brandy is served with custard followed by coffee and brandy, cheese and biscuits.  It is the first birthday Ruth has had outside Canada so you’ve just got to do the going in the ocean thing so we all head into the ocean for a quick game of Frisbee.  The water is really quite warm, in fact much warmer than the pool that we migrate to afterwards.  What is really nice about the set up here is that you have the same facilities as the hotel guests at a fraction of the cost.  Jim comes round for an early evening drink.  He is travelling alone and spends much of his time pursuing his photography hobby.  He lends us his “People’s guide to Mexico” which makes very interesting reading.  

COSTA ESMERALDA 3, CASITAS DEL TAJIN

 

FRIDAY 28 NOVEMBER – Mid morning Whitney & Jan arrive.  I’ve been in E-mail contact with them since Whitney replied to one of my forum postings about Central America.  They toured there last year so we hope to learn more about the area; although now we are not taking the motorhome in we are a little less eager.  Whitney built their 4wd motorhome from the chassis upwards and has pretty much the perfect vehicle to go anywhere but this year is taking a relaxing trip on ordinary roads within Mexico.  They have two large red Dobermans, Sassy & Josh, with them and we are amazed how quiet and placid they are.  We get together again in the early evening for “Happy Hour” and a chat.  I’m really impressed with the “Moon” guide they are using for the Pacific Coast; although I do use the Internet for research I am a book person at heart.

COSTA ESMERALDA 4, CASITAS DEL TAJIN

 

SATURDAY 29 NOVEMBER – Witney & Jan move on followed shortly by Jim who is going to stay at a nearby resort where he is doing photography work for them.  There is no automatic laundry around here so Steve & I tackle our sheets by hand.  With the sunny morning and breezy afternoons drying should not be a problem.  We walk back to Mision Hotel to catch up on Internet but the connection is frustratingly bad.  In the evening we watch the Catherine Cookson film “The Cinder Path” and recognise many of the locations where it was filmed, a million miles away from the scenery round here for sure.

COSTA ESMERALDA 5, CASITAS DEL TAJIN

 

SUNDAY 30 NOVEMBER – There’s a change in the weather with a northerly wind.  Ruth invites us for a clam chowder lunch, perfect in the cooler weather.  Just after we have gone to bed we get the rain but it is not bad.  Last winter we had no rain whatsoever in Mexico so I reckon this is because we have arrived earlier and within a couple more weeks we should have no more. COSTA ESMERALDA 6, CASI

200811

 

SATURDAY 1 NOVEMBER 2008 – We begin the task of cutting out the carpet to fit the van.  Having made paper templates of the areas we want to fit we realise we can also do the cab and the hall and bathroom with a join leaving just the kitchen with lino.  Late morning Narlie is heading out to the commissary grocery store and I join her.  It’s a typical American base supermarket but with lower prices on most items however too busy for my liking.  Return to find Steve has almost finished the initial laying of the carpet and it looks fantastic, the colour is perfect and it feels so cosy.  We’ve done it in such a way that if we are at the beach we can easily remove all or just sections of it.  Narlie cooks a prawn gumbo soup for our evening meal and it is very tasty.  They have to pop out for a couple of hours but rejoin us in the motorhome for a last drink and chat.

SAN ANTONIO 2, BALCONES HEIGHTS

 

SUNDAY 2 NOVEMBER – The clocks went back 1 hour last night, now 6 hours behind GMT.  Not really happy about this as it will be dark by around 6.30pm.  Frank has already left for work when we get up and Narlie is getting ready to go to church.  We make the most of the quieter traffic to escape San Antonio.  Begin to see lots of RV’s on the road; almost all are 5^th wheels down from Canada for the winter.  In Corpus Christi we head for the beach area and walk along to look at the impressive US Lexington aircraft carrier with planes visible on the deck.  Fill up with gas at just $1.89, that equates to 33p so 1/3 of the price in England.  We planned to go out to camp on Padre Island for up to a week but cannot find anywhere open selling propane and only have enough for about 3 days.  Settle onto Wal Mart for the night.  Unfortunately this one has a tannoy system with speakers apparently aimed towards the car park so we hear service announcements all through the night.

CORPUS CHRISTI WAL MART

 

MONDAY 3 NOVEMBER – Head out over the bridge to the National Seashore where our dated national parks pass saves us the $10 (£6.50) 1 month park entry fee.  Stop off at the visitor centre to use the cold showers then drive onto the beach.  It is almost deserted so we are happy to park up just a short distance along.  We are surprised by how clean it all is as following Gustav loads of debris ended up here.  Apparently people were allowed onto the beach to take whatever they wanted leaving less for the park rangers to deal with.  I read on the Internet that one couple salvaged a Coca Cola vending machine complete with the drinks and the money already put into it.  For the first time we get to use the windbreaks that we brought from England and boy do they make a difference making it pleasant to sit out by the van versus being sand blasted on the other side.

NORTH PADRE ISLAND, MESQUITE BEACH

 

TUESDAY 4 NOVEMBER – We have a jobbing morning and get the finishing touches done to the carpet amongst other things.  Late afternoon we walk north to the campsite to make a phone call and use the showers.  It’s Election Day here and the news seems to indicate that America is about to have its first black president in Obama. 

NORTH PADRE ISLAND 2

 

WEDNESDAY 5 NOVEMBER – We get up late, it’s been a windy night and we need a lie in plus Steve has a bit of a sore throat.  The storm has cast more debris onto the shore so we take a walk south.  Most of the trash is bottles and toiletries but there are a couple of safety helmets, lots of barrels and bits of wood.  We try to sit out in the afternoon but the wind swirls the sand around and I can only stand it for so long.  After showering in the van I continue with my Central America tour planning.

NORTH PADRE ISLAND 3

 

THURSDAY 6 NOVEMBER – Steve’s still not feeling too good so lays on the bed reading whilst I do more planning.  As I now have my Lonely Planet and a map of Central America I have enough to keep me occupied for many a day reading up on the 7 new countries we hope to tour, Belize, Guatemala, Honduras, Costa Rica, Nicaragua, Panama and El Salvador. Late afternoon a couple of small Mercedes Sprinter type motorhomes pull up.  Duncan has been living in Mexico but has come back to sell all the stuff he stored in Austin because he now wants to travel more in his motorhome.  Frank and Diana are from Florida and have been off on a big trip but met Duncan a few years ago and kept in touch because they have the same vehicles.  They have just come from their rendezvous on Boca Chica beach.  Duncan is planning a trip down to Argentina so we have lots to chat about.  They invite us to join them for a fish supper around their campfire and we add a stir-fry veg dish to the menu.  Good company and a pleasant change from being alone. 

NORTH PADRE ISLAND 4

 

FRIDAY 7 NOVEMBER – We’ve had a rainy and windy night and it is not a pleasant morning.  The wind has changed direction and blasts through our door when we open up.  Duncan has lent me his book “99 days to Panama” an exploration of Central America by motorhome so I’m set up for the day.  I’ve wanted to buy it but never found anywhere that could deliver to a forwarding address at the right time.  I’ve invited the others down for a pasta lunch and this goes on until after 4pm.  Rejoin them in the evening and Duncan cooks up some Mexican food, which really whets our appetite for the upcoming trip.  Duncan used to run a couple of large restaurants but was in a bookstore one day and saw a boot titled something like “You don’t need a million to retire”, realised this was true and got out.  

NORTH PADRE ISLAND 5

 

SATURDAY 8 NOVEMBER – Our new friends move on.  Steve is not feeling too well, sore throat and a hacking cough from time to time so unfortunately is not in the best of spirits to enjoy the glorious day.  The beach gets really busy and a few tents appear near us.  It’s quite amazing to see the headlight procession along the beach as the day-trippers leave.

NORTH PADRE ISLAND 6

 

SUNDAY 9 NOVEMBER – Steve slept in the front of the van last night so we both had a better night.  It’s a blustery cloudy morning so Steve packs up and after lunch we head towards the campground.  There we make use of the free dump station and take a nice long shower.  Bird Island is the other free camping spot on the opposite site of the barrier island and a bit more sheltered.  Few motorhomes of there but the windsurfers are out in full force. 

NORTH PADRE ISLAND 7, BIRD ISLAND

 

MONDAY 10 NOVEMBER – After rain in the night we are inspired to clean the sand off the van.  Walk around the area in both directions but to the south the “beach” becomes a bog and north is a dead end at the camping spit.  It’s still very windy but we have reasonable shelter from the motorhome and no sand blasting us.

NORTH PADRES ISLAND 8, BIRD ISLAND 2

 

TUESDAY 11 NOVEMBER – It’s Veterans Day here and we expected a lot of day visitor but this is not the case so maybe it isn’t a public holiday.  Usual day reading, trip planning and cleaning. 

NORTH PADRE ISLAND 9, BIRD ISLAND 3

 

WEDNESDAY 12 NOVEMBER – The dull start to the day makes it easier for us to leave.  In Corpus Christi we shop at HEB, get the brakes checked in readiness for our big trip south (all OK) and the tyres blown up.  Heading south we are travelling roughly along the inland border of King Ranch, the oldest and biggest cattle ranch in the United States.  Pull onto Wal-Mart in Kingsville.  The snowbirds (winter Texans) are definitely here as there are 3 motorhomes from Quebec corralled at one side of us along with other North American vehicles. As is often the case we are the smallest and most simple one.

KINGSVILLE WAL MART

 

THURSDAY 13 NOVEMBER – It’s a cool and rainy day and the rain gets worse.  By the time we reach Harlingen we have to wait for a lull to get out to look at the Iwo Jima memorial.  The tallest memorial sculpture in USA it is the plaster cast over which the copper version was cast for Arlington Cemetery.  The museum has a most interesting 30-minute film explaining the importance of Iwo Jima Island.  Late in the war the Americans needed to capture it for a staging post.  It should have taken 3 days but the Japanese had hidden themselves in a catacomb of interconnecting tunnels on many levels covering the whole island.  The final battle lasted over 3 weeks with huge loss of life but the victory was a major factor in the whole war.  Nearby the Arts & Heritage Museum is a small collection of original buildings grouped together.  You can enter them all to wander round at will.  Amazing considering some of the antiques just sitting there.  I like the hospital building whilst the Stage Coach Inn impresses Steve.  After lunch we have a snooze in the motorhome the move off once the rain has stopped.  Arrive at the Wal Mart to find our Canadian friends Kevin & Ruth waiting for us.  It’s great to see them again and we have lots of catching up to do and lots more planning.  Decide that we will let the motorhome insurance situation dictate whether we proceed with our plan to try and drive to Panama or not.  They join us for a meal in our motorhome whilst we catch up on each other’s news.  It’s a stormy night with lots of rain, thunder and lightening. 

HARLINGEN WAL MART

 

FRIDAY 14 NOVEMBER – In Brownsville we visit Sanborns who are famous for their Mexican insurance policies.  They told me on line they could offer cover for Central America but only sent us the prices for cars.  They can offer us full cover for 4 or the 7 Central American countries but she can’t confirm the premium until we apply but says it will be more than for a car and that is $1800 for 3 months.  The decision is made and we buy their Mexican insurance for 6 months, $419 (£270) and receive lots of complementary road logbooks.  With no time pressure anymore we head out to Boca Chica beach.  On the approach road we see lots of flooding that must have been from the storm yesterday and last night.  As the ocean comes into view we see the road completely flooded and grind to a halt.  Steve & Kevin walk through the water and eventually return to say we can just about get onto a small entrance area to the beach without getting bogged.  It’s hard to tell where the high tide mark is as the beach is so wet but the Border Patrol vehicle reckons we are above it.  Kevin backs in up the track behind us and we will monitor the water up until the 5.30pm high tide.  Ignoring the wetness the beach is much like North Padre Island.  It’s a lovely day and we spend the afternoon sat out.  Steve goes for a wander and returns with Coin.  Amazingly he is from Queensbury just a few miles from where we lived but over here for 6 weeks to help with a wildlife refuge project.  I brew him a proper cup of tea and substitute cinnamon cake for parkin.  He’s here today with friends to do some bird spotting and then watch the full moon rise over the ocean.   Join Kevin & Ruth for a meal in Sherman.  The moonrise is pretty impressive and begins as a huge pink ball that turns white as it rises.  Enjoy our first game of euchre together, the first of very many no doubt.  Return home around 10.30pm. 

BROWNSVILLE AREA, BOCA CHICA BEACH

 

SATURDAY 15 NOVEMBER – We are disturbed by youths in a couple of vehicles attempting to do doughnuts in the sand accompanied by loud bass boom boom music.  We’ve not been asleep long after they leave before the motorhome shaking wakes us.  It is really windy outside and continues to get worse with sand blasting away at us.  With 2-hours to high tide there is also the concern that the onshore wind is going to bring the sea up much higher.  Steve goes out and uses the headlights to find and walk back on the beach road.  He says it is less windy there and we should move.  Manhandling the windbreaks and groundsheet is very difficult and I think we end up with half the beach sand in the motorhome.  Steve tells Kevin & Ruth we are pulling forward and they follow.  In our “sheltered spot” the van is only swaying a little and we get a bit of sleep.  By the time we get up we are rocking as much as we were in the open last night.  Steve walks back to the beach to retrieve our doormat and says it is terrible.  Return to Brownsville with the intention of doing all the last minute things needed before Mexico.  This also seems to be doomed as Kevin & Ruth can’t find anywhere selling some dog medication they need for Whiskey.  All the propane dealers are shut or we can’t find them.  The upshot is that it takes us until 5pm to do a bit of grocery shopping, fill up with really cheap gas at $1.69 (£1.10) gallon and get the laundry done.  At times we think we have inadvertently crossed into Mexico as almost everyone looks Mexican and speaks Spanish, half the products in the grocery stores are Mexican and many road surfaces potholed or have road works.  We are all exhausted after our sleepless night so our final Wal Mart, even though it is by the main road, will have to do.  We are in bed by 8.30pm and asleep soon after. BROWNSVILLE, WAL MART

WEDNESDAY 15 OCTOBER – To avoid traffic Wayne works flexi time and leaves early in the morning.  Being self-employed and “not a morning person” Sylvia heads in later leaving us home alone.  We finish working on Harry to enable us to do a photo shoot to put on the Internet to help when we sell it.  In the afternoon we get more heavy rain but at least it is still warm.  After our evening meal we finish of the Mexican Train game, which I am lucky to win.

BROOKSHIRE 4

 

THURSDAY 16 OCTOBER – It’s a dull and drizzly morning, much like England except that it isn’t cold at all.  Spend the day on the Internet making a number of purchases to be sent to our host in San Antonio.  In the evening I cook a Chinese stir-fry.  I join Wayne in the hot tub whilst Steve watches TV and Sylvia catches up on some work.

BROOKSHIRE 5

 

FRIDAY 17 OCTOBER – No drizzle but another dull morning.  Sylvia stays home working in her office, if she doesn’t have patients to see she doesn’t need to go into her main office.  She recently had to relocate office when her other one suffered storm damage and only last week was in a car crash so she has lots of paperwork to do.  I cook up a huge curry to take to the party tomorrow.   Join Sylvia on an afternoon shopping trip then return to pick up the lads for an evening meal out.  Sylvia has been told that both her insurance claims are to be paid out soon and wants to treat us.  End up at the Red Lobster where we get some good seafood meals.  Once we get back I set about making Steve and I some party outfits out of garbage bags and end up quite pleased with the result.

BROOKSHIRE 6

 

SATURDAY 18 OCTOBER – Sylvia does most of the party organisation and keeps props and decorations in her huge attic.  We load a lot of it into the motorhome then head off in front of them.  Weimer is about 1 hour away and we rendezvous at the motel where they are going to stay overnight – they turned down an invite to stay in the motorhome as they both snore a lot!  Out at Franz’s farm the barn needs a good sweeping and during this Steve comes across a snake wrapped up in a carpet he is unrolling.  Steve performs his “jumping out of the way” snake dance then someone else helps him to kill it, as it is a dangerous rattler.  Once this is all done I join them to help put out some of the decorations.  People begin arriving from around 4pm and bearing in mind this is a Healthy Hides of Houston naturist gathering names have been changed to protect the guilty!  Once everyone has had a chat we begin on the variety of food dishes and I am pleasantly surprised to see a number of people trying my curry.  The fancy dress competition follows – Garry has cards stuck on his chest and casino chips made into a G String so his character is Texas Hold Em (wishful thinking).  His wife Marjorie has a mousetrap hung on a necklace and she is the “booby trap”.  Lila is a witch, Jenny a sailor, Mickey has a plant painted on his back with the flowerpot on his bottom, Tim has a ripped up shirt but I didn’t catch the name of his character.  Darren is the elephant man with a fat suit up top and a pair of tights with one leg filled with toilet roll tubes and dangling, well you can guess where.  His wife Caroline is a naughty nurse whilst Sharon comes as “I don’t do mornings” in a bathrobe with rags in her hair and an eye mask.  Vince and his wife are excellent as the blues brothers, Bob is the deer hunter and his wife is in Egyptian belly dancing outfit.  Jimmy is a hoot as he is an elderly guy who had a motorbike accident recently and is in a wheelchair with his foot in plaster so he wears his crash helmet and poses as Evil Knevil!  Sylvia looks great as “Little Red Riding Hood” whilst I muddle through as Glen of the Garbo and Steve is just a scary character.  Silvia has enlisted my help in organising games so we play the potato croquet game that I learnt on the Nile Cruise and have a good laugh.  Follow this up with a few dancing games then its time for dessert after which a few people leave whilst others sit around chatting.  A great party with lots of interesting characters.  As usual a small hard-core group are left to clear up but we are lucky in only having a short walk home.

WEIMER

 

SUNDAY 19 OCTOBER – A small group return to finish packing things up and I cook up the left over ham and make scrambled eggs to go with it.  With breakfast over it’s time to take our leave after a super week in Wayne & Sylvia’s company.  Heading towards Austin the landscape changes to rolling hills, and the wheat fields give way to hills with trees.  A Globalfreeloaders host has put us in touch with a friend who has parking outside her office.  Lynn’s parents visit in their motorhome and she has set it up with water and electricity as well.  On the southern edge of the river within walking distance of the city it would be perfect, were it not for the railway track just a few feet away.  I’ve made contact with a couple from the Hill Country Nudist group and Anne & John come over in the afternoon to pick us up for a ride out.  Anne is Scottish but lived in London for many years then came to America and eventually to Austin where she met her husband John.  We have loads in common, Anne is a fellow traveller and John has lived abroad, so it is non-stop chat as we drive us out to Lake Travis.  Hippie Hollow is the only official naturist beach in Texas and from the car park an excellent paved path takes us along the edge of the lake high above the water.  In fact the water level is so low at the moment you can see lots of islands appearing whereas there have been times in the past when the path has been flooded.  It’s a beautiful spot with lots of inlets and plenty of flattish large ledges on the rocks below where you can sunbathe.  Settle down to relax and chat.  It’s a bit of a scramble down to the water but once there it’s a pleasure to swim in the lake.  We walk to the end of the main path and see many areas where boats are anchored by the shore.  It reminds us of Croatia and is exceptionally pretty.  Many hours later it’s is time to leave and Anne has invited us back for a meal so we can continue our chats.  It was Anne who suggested our detour to Austin because of the music and we make arrangements to meet up tomorrow night to check it out.   

AUSTIN

 

MONDAY 20 OCTOBER – Well I counted 5 trains and Steve only heard 2 and I’m not sure they were the same ones so it was a pretty noisy night but I did manage a couple of good stretches of sleep.  Set off walking towards the city and find a pedestrian bridge over the river then a nice walking track beside the river on the north bank.  The bats that spend summer under the Congress Bridge have left and there is no sign of them at all.  Up on the main drag we go inside the 1884 Driskill Hotel and find it really impressive.  Wander round some other streets and see a skyscraper with a kind of church style building at the top level but no tourist info about it.  A passer by stops and tells us the top floor is where President Johnson’s wife “Lady Bird” lived until she died just a few years ago.  The passer by is actually a tour guide on her day off and walks a few blocks with us giving us info and suggestion her top 5 attractions, of which we had planned to do 3 anyway.  Following a part of a walking tour we pass some interesting mansions and then see one of the “moonlight towers”.  Back in 1895 these were the first street lights in Austin and from their 165’ towers 6 arc lamps would cover a radius of 3000’.   The impressive domed State Capitol is slightly taller than the one in Washington because of the statue on top.  We take the free-guided tour to admire the interior and are amazed when we end up in the basement that leads onto a completely new wing.  The café is open to the public and makes a suitable lunch stop.  The Bob Bullock State History Museum, $6 (£3.60) is excellent as the story of Texas is portrayed over 3 floors going right back to when the Native Indians were about the only inhabitants.  Much of it is realistic setting with a mock Alamo area and lots of movie clips.  The story leads us through to modern day and the oil boom.  We ask about walking over to the LBJ library and museum and get various responses initially beginning with “you don’t have a car and want to walk there”?  Eventually learn we can walk through the university campus.  We fit in completely, not because we are so young but because for once everybody else is also walking!  Our stroll takes us past the “Longhorns” college football stadium and what a stadium it is.  It is being expanded but is already much bigger than any of the stadiums we have in England including something like Wembley and this is just for college games.  The LBJ museum and library houses memorabilia from Linden Johnson’s time as President, free admission.  It is based on his personal timeline linked with world events and extremely interesting.  A movie fills us in on his life and it seems he was doing rather well as President until the country went to war in Vietnam (now does this sound a bit familiar to you?).  On the top floor there is a replica Oval office and another floor houses lots of NASA exhibits, as it was LBJ that was initially challenged by Kennedy to get a man on the moon by the end of the 60’s.  I spot a nose cone of a jet named “Glamorous Glennis” and after posing by it I read up that it was the one that first broke the sound barrier – how appropriate!  We are enjoying it so much we get kicked out at 5pm closing time.  You can get a 24-hour local bus pass for $1.50 (90p) and with one connection the buses get us back home in about 45 minutes.  After a nibble and a quick change John & Anne pick us up.  We go back into the city and along the famous 6^th street but being a Monday night there is not a lot of activity but it’s still good to see.  Back on the south bank we end up at Barons where the car park is full and music can be heard.  A $5 (£2.95) cover charge applies and we soon settle into a booth with our drinks.  Its country style music but the band have written many of their own songs with ballads about Mexico.  It’s pleasant enough but no one is dancing and Anne & John have work tomorrow so after an hour or so we call it a day.

AUSTIN 2

 

TUESDAY 21 OCTOBER – Got up to 8 last night with my train count and worse still many of them came to a halt and then started off again a bit later.  Definitely can’t handle another night here.  Walk over to the Zilker City Park and begin at the Botanical Gardens.  There’s a butterfly section that leads into an area with some prehistoric animal figures then through the rose garden into the Oriental Garden.  It’s all rather pleasant but not outstanding.  Walking back across the park we reach the famous Barton Springs pool.  It’s a natural spring fed pool and they have damned the stream to create a 975’ long swimming pool,  $3 (£1.80) admission, with a constant 68F temperature.  Claire would love doing her long distance training here.  We meet up with Globalfreeloaders host Karen who put is in touch with Lynn where we are parked up.  Unfortunately she is really busy so can’t stay chatting for long.  I attempt to do some serious swimming but the cool water combined with the plants and fish make me uncomfortable.  There’s an exhibit room behind the changing rooms that does a great job of explaining how springs evolved over the history of time and how this one works.  Return for lunch then head south.  We are amazed to pick up the cheapest gas since June 2007 at just $2.37 a gallon, with the present exchange rate that equates to 36p a litre.  San Marcos visitor centre is marginally better than useless in that they do have some brochures from which we can gather information.  It seems that camping areas we wanted to visit around Canyon Lake are closed for the season so we retire to Wal Mart to re plan.  I’m amazed to see a queue at the gun department with dozens of rifles in the glass cabinet.  Hunting season starts on 1^st November and Wal Mart in the next town are not allowed to sell guns due to a county by law so obviously people are coming here.  All they need to complete a purchase is a piece of paper to say they have had a background check done.  It’s a fairly quiet parking spot but the trains are still haunting us as we hear them tooting in the distance even if we can’t hear the trains themselves.  Steve makes a few phone calls and finds that what bit of information the visitor centre lead us to is duff and some of the campgrounds are still open.  Caesars Pizza are doing a customer appreciation special of $3.99 (£2.40) for a large pizza, too good to resist. 

SAN MARCOS, WAL MART

 

WEDNESDAY 22 OCTOBER – Head off on the “Devils Backbone” road with fine views of the countryside. Ignore Purgatory road in order to take in the more scenic part of the road before turning off to Canyon Lake.  North Park is one of many COE (Corps of Engineers) lakeside campgrounds.  The guy at the kiosk tries to tell us we won’t want to stay here and would be better with all the other RV’s at Potters Creek Park with electric and an $18 price tag.  Assure him we would rather be here in the quiet rustic surroundings at $8 (£4.80).  We are happier still when we find that the National Parks pass gives us half price and he doesn’t notice that is out of date!  With all the sites to choose from we take and end one directly above the beautiful lake.  The water is low so we have a clamber about 15’ down over rocks to get into the water but it’s a pleasant temperature and nice and clean.  There’s a picnic table with canopy so we sit out for lunch just enjoying the view.   We can even get a wi-fi signal for a few miles away across the lake using our Hawking dish so we are even happier bunnies when Steve gets his football results!  Late afternoon a real storm whips up and we only just manage to get the awning away safely.

CANYON LAKE 1, NORTH PARK

 

THURSDAY 23 OCTOBER – A cool change has come through with the winds and for the first time in months I dig out my ¾ trousers and wear and T-shirt and jumper.  There’s a very pleasant walk out over the dam giving us views in both directions.  By the time we get back it has warmed up and in fact becomes really hot in the afternoon.  The lake is super for swimming in and the water clear enough for us to bring buckets back for washing.

CANYON LAKE 2, NORTH PARK

 

FRIDAY 24 OCTOBER – My goodness what a shock to the system, the night temperature drops to 40F and I have to get up to find another cover to put on the bed.  Just not used to this so linger in bed until 9am when it is just about warm enough to get up!  Walk the opposite way around the lakeshore to the private marina and then inadvertently into the Army one.  There are security fences everywhere except along the beach so I guess they don’t expect anyone to actually walk there!  Anyway they allow us to buy a drink and we make our way back to camp along the main road.  By lunchtime lots of other campers are arriving and boats are zipping around on the lake.  It’s a glorious day so we sit on our terrace enjoying a pasta meal washed down with lots of nice wine.  Mums now home and I chat on the phone and find she is walking around with just sticks for assistance but still very sore.  The campground gets busier with a number of tents setting up and a large motorhome down near us.  Mike & Patti leave just 4 miles from here up in the hills but like to come down to the Lake at weekends to enjoy the view and give Mike a chance to fish.  Sit out playing Yahtzee in the afternoon.  We get a lovely sunset over the lake to round off a perfect day.

CANYON LAKE 3, NORTH PARK

 

SATURDAY 25 OCTOBER – Back to the warmer nights.  The lake is dotted with small yachts when we get up and they seem to have races throughout the day.  Instead of going for a walk I do a bit of swimming.  Usual evening of cards and a bit of TV viewing.

CANYON LAKE 4, NORTH PARK

 

SUNDAY 26 OCTOBER – Mike comes over and says he is leaving this morning and would we like to follow him and park up at his home.  It’s a bit of a cloudy morning so we agree and follow him home.  He lives on aptly names Skyline road with views over the valley.  We have a nice parking spot by the shed with electricity and water.  Patti suffers with ill health and sits around most of the time watching TV but Mile obviously wants to socialise with us and makes a great host.  He cooks his evening meal on the BBQ and invites us to add our joint of pork.  He throws on a couple of enormous potatoes for us then serves it to us on the terrace.  Mike tries to stick to a special diet so cooks his own food and a separate meal for Patti but keeps popping back to sit with us and chat.

SATTLER

 

MONDAY 27 OCTOBER – Mike says to stay as long as we want and we can certainly use a day on electric to do more travel research on the Internet.  Take an afternoon stroll up the hill but too many trees obscure the views.    In the evening he pops down for a chat and brings some whole roasted garlic and smoked peanuts, he’s a bit of a chef on the quiet and does a great job.  He tells us about a TV programme where a chef  “Curtis Stone” surprises people in the supermarket and offers to take them home and cook a meal using the goods in their trolley, must look out for it.

SATTLER 2

 

TUESDAY 28 OCTOBER – Another cold night and we could do to be heading south a bit quicker but want to hang on for our Canadian friends to catch up with us.  Mike tells us the River Road to New Braunfels is scenic and it certainly is as it crosses the Guadalupe River 4 times.  There are numerous campgrounds on the banks but all are closed for the season.  Gruene began as a German settlement of farmers and many of the original buildings still remain.  It has a very attractive main street with lots of artisans and one of the oldest dance halls in Texas, often used in movies.  In New Braunfels we make a lunch stop in Landa Park then take a walk up to Comal Springs.  The biggest springs in Texas pump water into the Comal River, the shortest river in America at 2 ½ miles long.  Within the park is an old oak tree planted by original settlers in 1700 but it needs a lot of support to stop it collapsing onto the ground as it is now growing out at about 45 degree angle.  On the edge of the park they are setting up for the big “Wurstfest” this weekend and it looks like it’s going to be a big event with lots of halls and roped off areas.  Try to get to the centre of town but the turning we take leads us over a narrow bridge then towards a railway bridge with only 11’5” headroom and we are 12’.  Stop in our tracks but trying to get the cars to back up or wait for us to manoeuvre is impossible. In the end Steve waits for a gap in the on coming traffic then pulls into that lane to reverse beside all the cars that were backed up behind us.  One guy calls out that we are stupid idiots but doesn’t linger long enough for us to explain that there were no warning signs from the direction that we came.  Find a better road into the centre then out to where we are planning on parking at Couchsurfer Abel’s office.  It’s a similar location to our spot in Austin, right at the side of the railway but we reckon we can cope with anything for 1 night.  After making introductions Abel says he needs to chop a few branches off the trees and our arrival spurs him into action.  Once in place we are amazed at just how loud the train is and the fact that it toots its horn continuously.  All the road crossings have barriers across so we cannot understand the need for the horn at all.  Abel joins us for supper and tells us about some suspicious things that happened at the time of 9/11 www.911truth.org sounds like an interesting site that contradicts many of the official versions of events.  Abel is off to Guatemala next month for a couple of weeks so we are hoping he will be able to get back to us with some tips.

NEW BRAUNFELS   

 

WEDNESDAY 29 OCTOBER – We are lucky in that there are only a couple of trains in the early hours of the morning so manage a reasonable nights sleep.  It’s another cold night and morning and I end up putting the central heating on to entice us out of bed.  Drive to the centre of town and park up to walk around.  A German Prince from Braunfels founded this part of the city and much of the architecture retains the German influence.  Murals on the side of buildings tell the history of the first settlers.  The courthouse is impressive complete with bell tower.  A visit to the German bakery is a treat except the black forest cake can only be bought as a whole and is a huge one at $15.  Round of our visit in the hardware store that retains the old pulley system for transaction, sliding ladders and glass display cabinets.   Pick up the I35 heading to San Antonio, the 6^th largest city in America.  In our opinion the traffic is terrible even though we have missed rush hour.  Our Couchsurfing hosts live in the northwestern suburb of Balcones Heights and we easily find their home and park on the second driveway.  At the end of the street there are shops within walking distance and a frequent bus service to the city centre.  Narlie pops back mid afternoon to introduce herself and give us our mail.  Frank gets home around 4pm; he’s a lab technician but has just learnt that due to cutbacks they will not be renewing his contract.  Frank has been in the military and spent lots of time abroad but isn’t travelling this moment so this is why they have joined Couchsurfers.  When Narlie gets home we find out she had put a rack of ribs in the oven earlier and invites us to join them.  She comes from the Philippines but is very happy living here.  They both go out early in the morning so around 10pm we retire to the motorhome.

SAN ANTONIO, BALCONES HEIGHTS

 

THURSDAY 30 OCTOBER – Catch the bus from the end of the road. The driver can’t sell us the $3.75 day-tripper pass but says we can ride for free and buy one in the city later.  Just over ½ hour later we hop off and walk down Houston Street pausing to admire the many attractive buildings.  Arrive in the centre of the city at “The Alamo” a stunning location with the historic park being surrounded by impressive high-rise buildings.  It’s free to go around and we begin with the movie about the battle.  It’s a really nice area with quite a few of the old buildings remaining.  Outside the long barracks is a modern cenotaph depicting heroes from the siege.  Along side Alamo Plaza a row of buildings house all manner of modern attractions and we buy a 3-attraction ticket for $26.95 (£15).  Begin in the Guinness World Records Museum with lots of interactive exhibits.  Next we do the 3D Tomb Raiders ride that is much like the Toy Story ride at Disney, in fact probably not as good.  Wind up on Ripley’s Haunted Adventure.  You ascend in a 45-degree lift to the upper floor of a building to be greeted by a spooky person.  At this point we are the only people in the attraction (as we were at all the other places) so he leads us into the haunted chamber to tell us we must now make our way through the various rooms to get out of the building.  He tells us things will come at us but nothing will touch us and then sends us on our way.  A combination of animatronics, real live actors and special effects attempt to scare us as we make our way through the corridors.  It’s actually all rather tame and we end up laughing rather than being scared.  So our one off splurge on attractions turns out to be a bit of a waste of money.  Set out to hit the real attractions of the city.  The main channel of the river was straightened out but the bend retained to form a kind of canal that runs just below street level.  It all sounds rather strange but when we find the steps down to it this little oasis right in the city centre enchants us.  You can walk along both banks of the river with dozens of restaurants, all busy at lunchtime.  Riverboats make the circular trip but we opt to walk it and stop for our sandwiches on a park bench part way round.  Having completed the circuit we wander through the old area of Villita where the traditional adobe house now house craft shops.  At the head of the river bend another channel leads out in a T shape to the river centre mall at one end and the Convention Centre at the other.  Through the Convention Centre we emerge into Hemisfair Park where lots of old buildings were relocated for a world expo.  A few blocks further and we are in the King William Historic District with street after street of magnificent and unusual architectural gems of houses mainly from the late 1800’s.  The area walking tour leaflet describes many of the features and gives a history of the original owners then leads us back to the river, which we follow back to the bus stop.  Having walked all the areas we wanted to see we just pay the single $1 (60p) fare to get us home by around 4pm.  So overall we are very impressed with our first look at San Antonio but decidedly footsore after our big trek.  Narlie seems to be coming down with a cold and doesn’t feel too good after work so we stay in the motorhome.  Next door the Community Centre is a hive of activity with work going on inside until 2am. 

SAN ANTONIO 2, BALCONES HEIGHTS

 

FRIDAY 31 OCTOBER – Notice that the windows and door of the Community Centre are blacked out so suspect they were preparing the room for a Halloween party tonight.  Take a walk up to the nearby Crossroads Mall but it looks like it is dying fast.  Apparently planners are forever creating bigger and better malls then people no longer visit the old ones.  In the afternoon Frank says he would like to take us out to a special place he knows and asks if there is anything else we want to do.  Yesterday we saw a carpet remnant place nearby so he takes us there and for $15 (£9) we get a nice piece of shag pile for the motorhome.  The lino is great in the summer or at the beach but carpet is much cosier in the winter.  Brackenridge is the location of the Japanese tea garden.  There is a quirky story attached as after Pearl Harbour they were forced to rename it a Chinese tea garden and had a Mexican create a wooden looking concrete entrance in the shape of a Chinese entrance gate.  Today it has reverted to being the Japanese sunken garden and what a treasure it is.  There is a fantastic huge stone pagoda with lots of fancy arches overlooking the sunken garden and pool.  Numerous paths and bridges lead you around the gardens and there is even a waterfall.  On the way back Frank calls in to Barnes & Noble bookstores where we manage to buy the Central America map that we need.  In the evening Frank & Narlie are going to a party that starts at 10pm so try to fit in a snooze before hand.  The disco begins next to us but it is nice music and we are happy to watch the kids having fun there whilst others roam the streets treat or treating.  Couchsurfer Mary was unable to offer us motorhome parking but wants to take us out to her favourite restaurant.  La Fogata is a fantastic Tex Mex restaurant and looks enchanting from outside with fairly lights everywhere.  When we enter through some old Mexican wooden doors we hear the mariachi band playing.  Mary is excellent company and recommends certain items on the menu.  The food is excellent as are their famous margaritas.  We are having such a good time that Mary comes back to the motorhome and stays chatting until after midnight. SAN ANTONIO 3, BALCONES HEIGHTS

200810

 

WEDNESDAY 1 OCTOBER 2008 – We had a bit of a disturbed night.  It seems we were on the car park used by the night fishermen and they all drive noisy trucks.  Make an early start along the coast then over a big bridge across St Louis Bay.  Following the Beach Road we immediately see storm damage including huge sections of the road that area closed.  Remains of a water park include tube slides that terminate mid air or maybe that’s a new style ride to come!  It’s a beautiful area so we understand why people want to live here but judging by the number of damaged homes they sure are paying the price.  Silver Slipper casino has a stunning location at the end of a headland surrounded by lovely beaches.  We get $10 each play credit; free T-shirts and half price buffet vouchers.  Steve has a really good session on the slots winning over $90 giving us a profit of over $100.  The lunch buffet at $6.99 (£3.75) and 2 for 1 is outstanding value and we make real pigs of ourselves.  Machines with soft drinks and coffee are around so having persuaded the bar man to put the Liverpool match on TV Steve settles in for the afternoon.  Move to the far side car park for the night.

WAVELAND, SILVER SLIPPER CAR PARK

 

THURSDAY 2 OCTOBER – At the junction with the I10 there is a huge Mississippi welcome centre and the NASA visitor centre.  A free shuttle takes you for a tour of the John C Stennis Space Centre where they test the space rockets.  We go round a small part of the base and see the huge test towers then drop us at a visitor centre.  Roaming around there are lots of things to try out including a shuttle landing which we both manage to crash!  The thermal imaging camera is also fun.  The freeway takes us in to LOUISIANNA where we head to New Orleans on an impressive bridge over Lake Pontchartrain.  Our “Couchsurfing” has no parking near her home but has arranged parking at her Mums.  Her Dad Carlos greets us and soon has us parked up then settled in the house having a drink.  He phones Maria’s partner Skip who has just finished teaching at school and heads over to pick us up.  Maria’s Mum Carol arrives home and I chat to her until Skip arrives.  It’s quite strange for us having to pack a bag and we don’t know how long for so that confuses the issue.  Skip and Maria live in the lovely historical area of Algiers.  As well as being well travelled Skip is in to property renovation so we have lots to chat about.  This is one of the oldest residential areas of New Orleans and built on older ground so they usually escape most of the storm damage.  They have 2 dogs, Toller and Izzy and a cat called Kitty.  Maria is doing a nursing course at college and is tired when she arrives back late.  After a quick introduction we settle onto the airbed in the lounge.  

NEW ORLEANS 1, ALGIERS

 

FRIDAY 3 OCTOBER – Maria is free late morning and along with her college friend Elizabeth they escort us over to the city.  It’s a short walk to catch the free ferry across the Mississippi River to the French Quarter.  Stop at the famous Café du Monde for a drink and some “beignets”, a kind of flat doughnut that is piled high with icing sugar.  The best way to eat it is to shake of as much of it as possible then lean to one side so the rest of the icing sugar falls on the floor.  Next we check out the French Market, originally fruit and vegetables but now crafts.  Maria & Elizabeth must get back but we have an AAA walking tour to follow.  The architecture is stunning and looks really beautiful with the lacy ironwork enhanced with flowers.  Royal Street seems to have the most impressive balconies but Bourbon Street is the liveliest.  We can only imagine what it is like at night as we visit during lunchtime and already people are wandering through the streets drinking cocktails and drifting in and out of the bars where loud music is playing.  Make a late lunch stop at the famous “Johnny’s Po-Boys” where we share a roast beef sandwich with garlic gravy and it is delicious.  Return to the main square to admire the surrounding buildings before walking back along the riverbank.  The French Quarter has a really nice feel to it, nothing like anywhere else we have been in America and we can see the attraction.  Return to Maria & Skips for a quick shower and rest.  They suggest going out for a meal so we hop in the car to go back over the river to Cunningham’s Cheesecake on Charles Avenue.  The offer an amazing selection of cheesecake desserts so I have to chose my main course carefully to be sure to have enough room.  I have another beef po-boy and this one is even better as it comes with the gravy to dip the sandwich in.  

NEW ORLEANS 2, ALGIERS

 

SATURDAY 4 OCTOBER – Our departure is delayed when I get a text from Claire asking me to call urgently.  Turns out Mum had a fall yesterday and is now in hospital having an operation to repair her broken hip.  I speak to Netty and also the hospital and find she has come through the operation well and is now resting.  Return to the city and catch the streetcar, $1.25 (75p) out along Charles Avenue where there are some magnificent mansions from the 1800’s.  The streetcar itself is unique in being the oldest one in continuous use.  It’s voting day today and at all the road junctions there are literally dozens of boards featuring the nominees and people waving placards, I count over 100 at one stop alone.  Get off the tram to walk around the Garden District area where we see even more impressive mansions in many different designs.  Most of the homes are very deep, close together and too near the road for a driveway.  Presumably built before cars were around because there are rows of horse hitching posts at the end of each road.  Lafayette cemetery is interesting with above ground tombs used by whole families.  When someone dies the front seal is broken and the bones raked out.  These are then put back in with the new corpse on top.  Back walking the streets we keep seeing rows of shallow drums in the ground and investigate.  They are in ground rubbish bins but we don’t delve deep enough to see whether they are bottomless or have to be emptied from the top!  Next we take a tram out to City Park to view the free sculpture garden.  It’s very interesting and even has a Henry Moore.  There’s a stadium in the park and obviously a game going on.    Leading up to the stadium is a huge area set up for tail gating parties almost on a commercial basis.  We see one with beer taps and try to buy a beer but it is a private tent and he won’t sell us one but gives us them for free then throws in some tickets for the football game.  It’s the local college team Tulane playing against the army and we catch the second two quarters to see the college team slaughtered.  In the evening we walk out in the Algiers area with Skip & Maria for dinner at the bar/restaurant near the ferry terminal.  They both have lots to do tomorrow so Skip takes us back to the motorhome for the night.  Once again the Couchsurfing system has worked brilliantly for us and now we have more new friends.

NEW ORLEANS 3, CAROL & CARLOS’S

 

SUNDAY 5 OCTOBER – Manage to speak to Mum in hospital and she is very sore but sounds to have come through the hip replacement operation well.  Carol has invited us in for breakfast and cooks up delicious bacon, eggs, cheesy grits and biscuits.  They taste far nicer than the commercial versions we have had before.  In their garden they have a voting poster showing the picture of a dog and saying Willie Bean for mayor.  It’s their daughters dog that ran for mayor in the town of Fairhope and got more votes than many of the other candidates – now doesn’t that tell you something!    www.williebeanformayor.com Carlos helps with a few travel tips and by late morning we are ready to move on.  Another example of the excellent southern hospitality.  We pick up the river road but can’t actually see the water because of the levy.  Along this route there are lots of cane fields and old plantations.  We turn off to look at a few but don’t want to pay $15 (£8.50) to go inside.  Laura is a very attractive old painted home but Oak Alley has to have the prettiest approach lined with oak trees.  This area has obviously suffered badly in the recent storms as many homes have blue tarpaulin on the roofs and trees have fallen all over.  Once we have driven past the best of the plantations its still early afternoon so we have a change of plan and head onwards to Baton Rouge.  As soon as we cross the Mississippi River we are impressed as we make our way along the riverside.  We expect places to be quieter on Sundays but here there is almost no traffic so it is very easy navigating.  The State Capitol is in a fantastic art deco tower building and even more impressive inside.  We ride up to the 27^th floor for great views over the river, the city and also the massive oil refineries.  These deal with the largest volume anywhere in Northern America.  Check out the statues, murals and other points of interest on the ground floor.  Walk through the gardens past the tomb of state governor Huey Long who was buried here after being assassinated in the building.  Huey Long was also responsible for building the Governors Mansion as a replica of the White House so that he would know his way around then he got there!  Notice a sign saying the museums are free on the 1^st Sunday of the month from 1-5pm.  It’s almost 4pm but we manage to race through the art museum then in to the original State Capital in a castle style building with fantastic spiral staircase topped with a pretty glass roof.  Hastening through that we make the planetarium just before closing.  Hollywood Casino is at the end of the road and a handy overnight parking spot. 

BATON ROUGE, HOLLYWOOD CASINO

 

MONDAY 6 OCTOBER – Heading to Lafayette we cross an enormous swamp at Henderson but that’s about the only point of interest en route.  We want to visit the Acadia Cultural Centre but before going in we pop in to the Mardi Gras factory opposite where they make the floats.  It’s really interesting to see the works in progress and realise that this factory also does work for the Mexican and Spanish Mardi Gras.  In the proper museum we study the displays then enjoy a movie about how the people were banished from Nova Scotia to finally end up here.  Next is followed by an even more interesting one about the Atchafalaya swamp and this prompts us to consider doing a swamp tour.  Unfortunately after the storms the water level is extremely high and tours not on track.  With little choice we take the I10 but it is most unpleasant and made worse as the highway is concrete slabs that are noisy as you bounce over them.  Lake Charles is really nice with a huge lake in the centre of town and lots of parking. There is a 911 memorial to 3 local people who died.  2 beams from the World Trade Centre were transported here as the centrepiece and it’s amazing to see how buckled and twisted they area.  The “Auberge du Lac” is a very posh casino with no membership freebies but at least they let us stay on the parking lot for free.

LAKE CHARLES, AUBERGE DU LAC

 

TUESDAY 7 OCTOBER – There is a lovely sandy beach on the banks of Lake Charles but the day starts with the threat of a big storm.  On the freeway we really hit it and have to crawl along in order to see.  At Vinton you can free camp at Delta Downs casino.  Unusually this is also a racetrack so situated in the country.  Once the rain stops we check out their sign up offers but just come away with free T-shirts – at least these are red and a change from our white collection.  There is no lunch buffet on Monday or Tuesday so we eat in the van and have a relaxing planning day.  We can tell we are in the country as a skunk waddles along the edge of the race track then puts it’s tail up when Steve goes close to take a photo!  With free wi-fi I can use Skype to contact Mum via the Internet.  She has been up and about but finds it very painful.  

VINTON, DELTA DOWNS CASINO

 

WEDNESDAY 8 OCTOBER – We are woken to the sound of horses galloping past, seems they are out for an early morning training session on the course and we have a grandstand view by the starting post.  Hitting the road we are soon in TEXAS and stop at the excellent visitor centre to gather state info.  The few tourist attractions in the town of Orange are still closed after the storms.  Travelling through Bridge City we see the worst damage to date.  They took the brunt of hurricane Ike as it came ashore and flooded the area.  Trees are down everywhere and by the roadside we see the ruined stuff people have dragged out of their homes awaiting refuse collection.  I stop to shop at the recently re opened Wal*Mart and am stunned when I enter the store.  The floor is now bare concrete but what hits me most is the type of things they are selling.  Wellington boots are piled high, bed mattresses and other necessary replacement items abound whilst fresh food is non-existent.  Two impressive bridges lead us to Port Arthur that survived somewhat better due to a good levy bank.  For some reason religious symbols abound here and we begin at the Shrine of our Lady of Guadalupe.  A 27’ bronze statue sits on top of rocks brought from Mount Tepayac in Mexico where the Virgin Mary appeared to Juan Diego.  Queen of Peace Shrine down the road is a beautiful oriental garden built by Queen of Vietnamese Martyrs Catholics.  As we are crossing the road to it a Police car pulls over.  The officer is surprised to see tourists here and wants to know if we are enjoying our visit.  He lived in England for many years so lingers chatting.  He tells us it is unsafe to stay in this area overnight as we are on the edge of gang territory but it is OK in the day.  The seafront is not as we imagined as you can see nothing but the levy bank and the only interest on Lakeshore Drive is a few nice houses.  The Buddhist temple is closed due to storm damage but completes the trio of religious sites.  Over on Pleasure Island there are no beaches and the coast road is closed so we are done with Port Arthur.  Highway 73 is a shock to the system.  Whilst the road has been cleared of debris it is still piled at the sides and gives us a further insight into how bad things were.  There are huge mounds of stuff that looks like mud covered with hay and these are entwined with debris including tin roofs, doors, windows and even a fridge whilst other items are stuck up in trees.  This goes on for miles and we cannot imagine what the coastal road is like as we are now a good 10 miles inland.  The small town of Anahuac is also in the process of recovery.  You can camp at the county parks and we call in to the Court House to get a permit.  I am told that Fort Anahuac Park is full of tent campers from a religious group who are there to help.  They suggest we try White Memorial Park back near the freeway as it will be much quieter.  It’s a large and pleasant wooded park leading down to Turtle Bayou but certainly not a quiet spot.  Along with the noise of the motorway traffic we hear chain saws running as worked begin to remove the fallen trees.  Still it’s a free spot and we are biding our time to arrive in Houston for the weekend so we will take it.

ANAHUAC, WHITE MEMORIAL PARK

 

THURSDAY 9 OCTOBER – Manage a reasonable nights sleep.  Whilst the days are still hot we are noticing cooler evenings, down to 70F and even wake up to see dew on the grass – a first since we got back in July.  Spend a quiet day relaxing.

ANAHUAC 2, WHITE MEMORIAL PARK

 

FRIDAY 10 OCTOBER – For the first time since last November we see gas priced at under $3 (£1.85) a gallon, maybe this is partly because we are driving in an area where every large plot of land is taken up with massive refineries.  Unfortunately it is not any cheaper for us as the exchange rate has now dropped to $1.70 = £1.  San Jacinto memorial is the tallest obelisk in the world but both that and the Battleship Texas opposite are closed due to the storm.  In Houston we return to visit our host Tim.  Catch up on his news then join him for a visit to the YMCA where he is a member.  They have a great fitness centre and I can go free as his guest so get to put in 40 lengths in the outdoor swimming pool.  When Steve & Tim are waiting for me in the lounge area there is a TV showing staggering falls then leaps on the American stock market.  As Tim says things must be bad when even the lifeguards are talking about it!  Take lunch at the café where they provide healthy food, the turkey chilli at $2.99 (£1.85) a bowl is delicious.  Driving back he takes us through many of the housing areas with storm damage and we still see huge oak trees that have not been sawn up.  Many homes were lucky to have the trees fall away from them but others have had trees fall on both the front and the back.  I phone Mum who has been moved to Whitchurch hospital but she is still in a lot of pain and struggling to get the new hip moving.  It’s frustrating that we are so far away and I can’t nip back to visit and help but we had such a hard time getting back into America that I fear they would not let me return and that would leave Steve stranded here alone.  In the evening we sit in the house chatting whilst Tim cooks us pasta and pizza to go with the wine.

HOUSTON, TIMS

 

SATURDAY 11 OCTOBER – With good internet connection we do more travel planning and are now considering taking the motorhome into Belize and Guatemala so that opens up a whole new area of research.  Tim is out for dance lessons late afternoon and then to a party so we have made arrangements to meet the daughter and family of our Dutch friends Henk and Klara.  Ineke arrives to pick us up and take us to their apartment in Spring, about half an hour north.  Along with her husband Jos and daughters Mara, 11 and Jonna 8 they moved here 3 months ago.  They are also members of the hospitality clubs.  We go to a nearby Chinese buffet called “China Bear” and chat our way through the meal.  As usual there is an excellent choice of food but this one also includes things like crab legs and crayfish.  Also there is a huge shop attached to the restaurant selling some impressive Chinese ornaments at very reasonable prices.  Next they take us up to Woodlands Market Street where there is a European style village square.  We pick up drinks from Starbucks and sit around the square enjoying the evening.  Jos is working in a school here and Ineke works for a petroleum company but from home.  Both the girls have settled in really well at school in spite of having to learn English quickly.  After an enjoyable evening making friends Ineke drops us back home.

HOUSTON 2

 

SUNDAY 12 OCTOBER – After chatting to Tim we head west to Brookshire.  Wayne is president of Health Hides of Houston club and has invited us to visit.  They live in a newly developing area and designed their own home and created a private back garden where they can sunbathe au natural.  His wife Sylvia is also very friendly and they make us really welcome and invite us to stay in one of their spare bedrooms.  Their swimming pool is beautiful and has a long rock waterfall across the back making it sound like a babbling stream.  Find lots to chat about through the afternoon before joining them for an evening meal.  Looks like we are going to be here a few days so we all do our own thing in the evening.

BROOKSHIRE

 

MONDAY 13 0CT0BER- Sylvia runs her own Diabetic Management company and although it is Columbus Day holiday opts to go in to work to do a few things.  Wayne has quite a lot of holiday left this year so takes the day off.  In the morning we give Harry a bit of a sprucing up so we can take photos to put on the Internet later when we try to sell it.  At dinnertime we go in to Houston and pick up Sylvia to join us at Brothers pizza.  We’re all weary in the afternoon so just hang around. After a late dip in the pool there is a cool breeze so we jump in the hot tub.  It’s a great design with lots of different massage areas so we stay in for ages.  I prepare some potato slices and pork to BBQ for evening meal.  After eating we play a game of petanque on their new petanque court.

BROOKSHIRE 2

 

TUESDAY 14 OCTOBER – The dull start to the day deteriorates into a thunderstorm with rain.  Fortunately it is brighter in the afternoon and we can sit out by the pool.  Wayne has taken another days holidays so is even more pleased about that than us!  After a steak BBQ in the evening they teach us a new game of dominoes.  It is with a set that goes up to double 12 and called Mexican Train and great fun.

BROOKSHIRE 3

 

WEDNESDAY 15 OCTOBER – To avoid traffic Wayne works flexi time and leaves early in the morning.  Being self-employed and “not a morning person” Sylvia heads in later leaving us home alone.  We finish working on Harry to enable us to do a photo shoot to put on the Internet to help when we sell it.  In the afternoon we get more heavy rain but at least it is still warm.  After our evening meal we finish of the Mexican Train game, which I am lucky to win.

BROOKSHIRE 4

MONDAY 15 SEPTEMBER – Back to the springs for another relaxing day.  Around 2.30pm it begins raining so we take our cue and leave.  The next big town is Perry where we use the library for Internet.  Looks like we may have to travel slower than planned as pretty much all the coastline of Texas was wiped out by Ike and people are still stranded in cars.  Settle onto the Wal*Mart car park for the night.

PERRY WAL*MART

 

TUESDAY 16 SEPTEMBER – Unusually we wake to a humid cloudy drizzly day.  One of the big advantages of parking at Wal*Mart is that you get first pick of the reductions early in the morning!  We park in town using wi-fi until lunchtime.  Travelling through Sopchoppy we see our first gas station out of fuel – maybe a sign of things to come.  We have a map of Apalachicola National Forest but still have trouble finding the campground as the 399 has been changed to the 299 and other roads don’t exists as shown on the map.  Eventually we find the spot and it is well worth the hunt.  You can free camp for up to 14 days with new clean pit toilets, picnic tables, fireplaces, hunt hanging and carving table and boat ramp all available.  We make the short walk to the boat ramp for quick dips in the water, it’s a kind of rusty colour and not very clear.  Knowing alligators are in the area we are not keen to go far or to linger but it’s enough for cooling off. There’s no one else here so we are free to strip off and enjoy the afternoon sun.  Just one car arrives with a boat that goes out for an hour or so before they leave.

APALACHICOLA NATIONAL FOREST, WOOD LAKE

 

WEDNESDAY 17 SEPTEMBER – It was a really cool night, the first since we arrived in Florida back in April, well by cool I mean down to 70F!  Enjoy a relaxing day and again just one car comes down with a boat.  In the evening Steve makes a fire and cooks our toasted cheese sandwich on it.

WOOD LAKE 2

 

THURSDAY 18 SEPTEMBER – We get up late, as it is nice to linger in bed without being hot and sweaty.  Having bought some bleach I spend the morning scrubbing all the mould from our outdoor chairs and it works a treat.  A local arrives in a car and gets chatting to Steve over a beer.  He kindly points out a fresh water tap tucked away at the end of the campground so now we won’t even need to brave the lake for bathing.  Occasional spots of rain are insufficient to force us in during the afternoon.  A boat pulls up and shortly after a car and trailer arrive to drag it out.  Feeling really settled here as it is so peaceful and we have as much sun or shade, as we want.

WOOD LAKE 3

 

FRIDAY 19 SEPTEMBER – Steve’s 54^th birthday and we go for a morning stroll with the phone to try and get reception in case he has texts messages but no signal.  More time for relaxing, in fact I am reading a book a day at the moment so obviously too much time on our hands.  We have our main meal and mid day and I cook us a nice steak followed by apple pie and custard and rounded off with fresh coffee, cheese and grapes – gee it’s a tough life!  We sit out late in the evening playing cards, as it is such a pleasant temperature.

WOOD LAKE 4

 

SATURDAY 20 SEPTEMBER – We wake up early when a car towing a boat comes in.  I get up and cook up a curry and make a fresh fruit salad for later.  It’s a busier day with quite a few people coming in and out with their boats but still a great spot to be.

WOOD LAKE 5

 

SUNDAY 21 SEPTEMBER – A couple of lads stayed overnight and kept going back and forward to the water so not so good for sleeping.  We are ready to move on anyway and pick up route 98 taking us along the coast of the panhandle of Florida.  We pay our top price for gas at $3.89 (GBP2.20) a reflection on the shortages following hurricane Ike.  It is a very scenic route mostly right at the edge of the water where we see lots of stilt houses.  Old rickety ones are mixed in with some very grand mansions.  Many areas of the road are being built up after erosion problems from the storm.  This area is known as the “Forgotten Coast” but we have no idea why as it is so beautiful.  Apalachicola is a quiet little riverside town with no campground therefore they welcome motor homes to stay overnight on their car parks.  We are almost spoilt for choice when we drive around but opt for the one out on Market Street by the new Vietnam memorial.  Return for a walk around town with very attractive wide streets a remnant from when it was a bustling cotton shipping port.  It went on to service the logging industry and became very prosperous so there are some nice mansions as well.  Retire to the car park late afternoon for a peaceful night.

APALACHICOLA

 

MONDAY 22 SEPTEMBER – Again we really enjoy a beautiful coastal drive, the water is a pretty turquoise green and the beach