WEDNESDAY 21 Oct. 09 – I’m surprised that we don’t sleep well as we have a quiet room and comfortable bed.  Leave at 4am and take a mototaxi to the station, PS2 (16p).  Our train leaves at 5.07am and there are a few empty seats so we pick two together on the left side of the train facing forwards.  The valley narrows and the mountains either side seem higher creating a most attractive backdrop.  We follow the course of the river passing small farming communities.  As we continue the landscape turns into jungle with lots of trees.  I spend most of the journey with my head poked out of the window taking dozens of photos as it is so attractive.  As we enter the village of Machu Picchu (also known as Aguas Calientes) we find the train is actually going along the main street with buildings less than a foot from the carriage.  In fact we can see right into them and spot people on beds and others sat in café’s, very funny.  Alighting from the train we make our way to the main square where the school is.  As it is twinned with Haworth and our grandchildren have a link with the pupils we intend to visit later.  Before we have begun to look for a room we are approached by Rolando who wants to show us “Hopedale Jarito” and tells us the room is PS20 (£4.40) pp which is very cheap for this town.  We walk up the steps of the hill where they have a ramp so you can drag your bags.  We are given a choice of 3 rooms, all of which would be acceptable, with en-suite and supposedly hot water.  All our information leads us to believe that the cheaper rooms have sporadic hot water but everything else is fine so we check in.  By 7am we are lying down taking a nap.  At 8am we set out to explore the town and to visit the school.  It is twinned with Haworth and the children have been writing to each other.  First we have to introduce ourselves to Sonia at the town hall, the co-ordinater of the twinning.  She takes us over to the school to meet headmaster Leonardo.  Together they take us into the top class where some of the pupils speak a little English.  They all seem delighted to see us and we explain that our granddaughter is one of the pupils in Haworth school; she is called Natasha and is 9 years old.  These students are 11 and 12 years old so we attempt to explain that our grandson Daniel aged 12 no longer goes to Haworth but to another school.  I chat to a few students individually and take E-mail addresses from those who would like to write to students from Haworth directly.  At the end I do a video and they all call out a greeting to the pupils in Haworth then do a special hello to Natasha.  At this stage it seems that the twinning is in the early stages as other than the school no one seems to know about it.  Now we are here we can see similarities in the towns.  Both tourist destinations both have a valley railway, both have narrow steep streets and in both schools the uniform is bright blue.  Set out to explore more of the town set on either side of the river and rail track.  It has a really nice feel to the place with very friendly people.  Walking up the narrow street towards the hot pools it is lined with restaurants and bars and we succumb to coffee and cake.  The hot pools, PS10 (£2.20) are higher upstream and set at the side of the river.  You enter them through a beautiful café area.  There are a number of pools of varying temperatures, size and type.  Some have a natural sand base others are tiled.  Spend a good hour or so just relaxing and admiring our surroundings of beautiful steep tree covered mountains with the clouds at the top.  Chat to an American couple from New York, Victor & Ena, who are originally from Russia and Ukraine.  We are getting on so well that they walk back to town with us and join us for lunch.  Many restaurants offer a set menu at PS15 (£3.30) and this is what we pick.  The game of jenga is set up on the table so we teach Victor & Ena how to play.  In the afternoon Steve watches sport in the bar whilst I do my diary and pictures.  Later on we set out for a stroll up the street, a bit of hassle from the restaurants but they do accept no quite readily.  We go to a place where they have happy hour 4 for 1 (it is not really as each individual drink is priced less and you would then get a larger one) at PS15 (£3.30) including tacos chips.  They put on a movie for us to watch and we settle in for a couple of hours and even end up ordering burger and chips.  The area feels like a nice backpacker resort and very relaxed.  Early to bed.

MACHU PICCHU, “JAIRITO”

Ps20 (£4.40) PP

THURSDAY 22 October – Up at 4.15am to join the line for the 5.30am bus.  Why?  Because only the first 400 people up at Machu Picchu get a ticket to climb “Huayna Picchu”, the mountain behind from which you get spectacular views.  I am not entirely sure whether I want to or am capable of making the climb but will leave it in the lap of the Gods!  The buses take you up a steep hill with 14 hair pin bends to get you to Machu Picchu which is on a kind suspended plateau between two mountains.  We are on about the 4^th bus so get our tickets stamped as number 91 and 92 to do the climb beginning at 7am.  The site opens at 6am and the complicated 3 stage ticket entry takes about 15 minutes but we still get our first glimpse of Machu Picchu as the sun rises, magnificent.  We feel we know the site having seen so many pictures and videos but its sheer size and beauty still impresses.  Making our way through to the far end of the site we duck into a few of the ruins.  There is now a line up for the mountain walk, the gates open at 7am and you have to sign into a register.  The first 200 can go up from 7am onwards and the next 200 from 10am.  The board says the climb takes about 1-hour but I will be just happy to make it in any time at all.  We overtake 3 people in the first minute, OK so the guy had just fallen down and was having his knee bandaged!  The walk begins will a few up and downhill steps, across a small ridge then to the mountain itself.  Onwards the walk is almost continuous steps, some so high there is a rope so you can haul yourself up.  I do the Andean walk of taking a pace then pausing before the next and thus keep going almost continuously without too much huffing and puffing.  Just before the top there is a terraced area with some ruins and we pause to take in the views.  The last stretch involves scrambling through a narrow cave and up some carved steps then a few more rock steps to the pinnacle.  Here people are just sitting around on the rocks enjoying the panoramic views.  It has taken us a little over 1-hour and we feel rather pleased with ourselves and so glad we made the effort.  Climbing down is considerably easier and quicker but we still reward ourselves by lying down on one of the grassy terraces for a bite of lunch – only we look at our watches and realise that although it feels like lunch time it is only 10am.  The site is getting busy so it is easy to hang around the ruins and listen to the tour guides although we still feel the setting and wandering around alone is the most enjoyable part.  By 11am we have finished and catch the bus back to Aguas Calientes.  No sooner have we stepped into our room than the heavens open up.  Talk about good timing.  After a hot shower we spend an hour or so resting then head off up the street for a feed.  It seems that happy hour and the special menus are all day so we pick on a PS15 (£3.30) menu with entrée, soup, mains, desert and wine.  I order the alpaca steak and it comes in a delicious sauces.  We play cards and want to linger after the mean so sign up for 4 of the happy hour drinks.  Return to our room after dark and watch a movie before bed.  We can now see how people do Machu Picchu in one day from Cusco as the site doesn’t take much looking round but much prefer the relaxed way we have done things.

AGUAS CALIENTES 2, JAIRITO

FRIDAY 23 October 2009 – It is nice to have a bit of a lie in although heavy rain did wake us in the early hours.  The train is late leaving and then doesn’t make the proper stop in Ollantaytambo because of the road works but drops us about 15 minutes further on.  Everything is geared up for this as a free mini bus takes us up to the main road where taxis are waiting.  We opt to stand at the roadside and flag down the next bus which happens to be a tour bus and gets us all the way to Cusco for PS5 (£1.10) pp.  It is a very scenic journey with glaciers visible on the mountains and some nice lakes.  Arrive back in Cusco early afternoon and the lads come up to let us into their home.  They have to work in the afternoon so we relax and watch a movie.  In the evening they return with 2 German girls and an American lad who are collecting their bags ready to catch a night bus plus Cecile who is staying over.  They sure enjoy having lots of visitors.  We want to take them out for a Thank You meal but it all goes a bit pear shaped when they get called back into work.

CUSCO, COUCHSURFING WITH RONNIE

SATURDAY 24 Oct. 09 – Catch the 8am “San Luis” bus to Puno, PS20 (£4.40).  Our journey begins in the mountains with lakes and snow capped peaks.  After a couple of hours we seem to be on a never ending plateau with a straight road.  At the last stop before Puno a guide gets on the bus promoting a new hotel.  Hotel America is in Puno and he is offering double rooms at PS40 (£8.80) with bathroom, internet and bus from the terminal to the hotel.  It is around 4pm when we arrive so we are happy to take up the offer even though someone says we should get rooms as low as PS25.  In fact it is a very nice hotel so we are confident in booking a 2 day, 1 night tour on Lake Titicaca with him.  He asks PS80 pp but we bargain him down to PS60 (£13.20).  We get to visit floating and fixed islands on the lake and spend the night with a local family in their home.  Walking into town for a meal the heavens suddenly open up and we almost regret booking the tour for tomorrow.  We have a Chinese meal then have to wade back to the hotel as the streets have become rivers.  Worse still it is really cold.  Think this is the start of the rainy season in which case we may have to review our tour plan and get a bit of a move on further south. 

PUNO, AMERICA INN www.americainnpuno.com

PS40 (£8.80).

SUNDAY 25 October – Our trip begins at 8am when we board a boat, the inside being much like a coach.  There are Spanish, French and English speakers on the board so our guide Tito Castro repeats everything in 3 languages.  Heading out onto Lake Titicaca we soon enter the area of the Uros “floating” islands.  They are incredible, made of the local totura reeds each one houses many families.  There are so many that each tour boat stops at a different one, ours is Isla Suma Balsa.  When you step onto the reeds you almost feel drunk as you bounce up and down and sway.  We gather for an explanation as to how the islands are created and the reason that there are now so many - the original big ones were cut either in half or into smaller pieces when people fell out!  Although they are technically floating they are all anchored down so don’t go anywhere.  Not only are the islands made of totura reeds but the houses on them, the boats and everything else is made of the reeds and they even eat the roots.  Inhabitants either fish or make things to sell to the tourists.  Totally unique we are really impressed by the spectacle.  Back on the boat we motor for about 3-hours to get to Amantani Island where we will spend the night with a local family.  En-route we are taught a number of phrases in the islanders “ketchuan” language.  Once you arrive the locals are gathered waiting for you and a family member is called forward and a visitor name matched to them.  Our host is an elderly man called Gregorio.  Lake Titicaca is at over 3800m and the island homes are scattered up the side of the mountain.  There are no cars, motorcycles or bikes on the island so working is the only way to go.  Hiking up is incredibly difficult at this altitude and we have to keep stopping for breath as do most of the other tourists.  The island is divided into 10 communities and Gregorio lives in Colquecachi which unfortunately is high up.  We walk past the community square and up a dirt track to finally reach his home where we are introduced to his wife Andria.  Our room is a basic adobe construction with the earth floor covered with sacking and the roof lined with more sacks.  There is no electricity and just 4 beds and a table and chairs.  The toilet is an outside dunny with a bucket of water outside for flushing.  Gregorio indicates we should have a rest and brings us some mint tea to help combat the effects of altitude.  After about 1-hour we begin to wander what is happening as we are supposed to have lunch.  I find out that they are waiting to serve us lunch in the kitchen.  This is a tiny room with the wood burning oven and stove in one corner.  Our meal is thin vegetable soup followed by 4 tiny boiled potatoes and a thin slice of cheese plus more mint tea.  Gregorio also speaks Spanish so we have a bit of a chat about family etc.  Around 3pm the wind gets up and it begins to rain heavily so we return to our room.  4pm there is a meeting of our group in the square but due to a misunderstanding about the trip Steve can’t be bothered going.  He thought we were going to be staying on a floating island whereas I had already said there was no way I was sleeping on a reed bed all night but happy to compromise on this trip.  At the meeting we learn there is a fiesta (party) at 8pm in the village hall but before that a hike to the top of the mountain to watch the sunset.  I pass on that and return home to Steve’s “told you it wouldn’t be worth going to”.  Conversation with the family is difficult so we settle into bed to read until it gets too dark, we only have 1 candle.  Evening meal is thin vegetable soup followed by rice and a few vegetables and mint tea.  Andria’s Dad joins us and we are amazed to learn he is 105 years old – the oldest person we have ever met.  Gregorio is 58, Andria 60 and they have 4 children and 8 grandchildren.  They have been receiving overnight tourists for about 10-years and take it in turns within the community hosting people about every 3^rd day.  Andria and all the local females look rather plump but when she brings me a traditional outfit to wear to the fiesta I realise why.  They are wearing 2 extremely full skirts of heavy cotton and for proper fiestas can wear up to 20 skirts.  I have a fancy blouse then a tight wide corset thing around my waist and a big heavy black shawl over my head.  Steve gets off lightly with a poncho.  At the village hall they have 2 bands playing traditional music and our hosts soon have us up dancing.  The start of the dance has you holding both hands and shimmying backwards and forwards.  At some point this breaks up and everyone forms a huge circle and begins running round but then the circle pulls inwards to make you run faster – a bit like a New Years Eve kind of dance.  They are serving drinks and Gregorio and Andria seem delighted when we buy them both a large beer and share them amongst their friends.   Head for home around 10pm.

LAKE TITICACA, ISLA AMANTANI, COMUNIDAD COLQUECACHI

MONDAY 26 Oct. 09 – It is light around 5am and we hear our hosts pottering around.  Gregorio still farms whilst Andria works in the kitchen (no idea how it can take so long to prepare the food) and knits.  At 6.30am we get a knock for breakfast, a pancake and cup of coffee.  I find out that they both have cold feet and cannot afford socks so we give them the spare pairs we had brought to wear.  With no water to wash we figure we might as well keep our dirty stuff on!  Hike back down the mountain to the port for our 7.30am departure.  Chatting to others on the boat we may have had the short straw with one of the highest houses whilst others had electricity, wooden floors and eggs on the menu.  About an hour away is the other large island of Taquile.  Here we must walk up and around the mountain to meet in the main square.  I realise it is another steep hike so settle in to my slow walk ending up way behind everyone else.  We pass through many arches indicating entry to the different community.  The walk is not all up hill and on the flat I overtake most of the others as I am not in the least puffed out.  The main square is very busy on Mondays.  This community believes in being equal so each Monday the takings from the shops and restaurants is shared out between the islanders and they come to the square to collect it.  Also each tour group is allocated to a different restaurant and each week a different family runs it.  Another interesting thing is their clothing which by colour, style and the way it is warn shows not only which family they belong to but whether the person is under 5 –years, over 16- years, married or single.  The men make all the clothing for the females and vice versa so we see many men wandering around knitting.  An extra quirk is that the way a girl holds the pom-poms on her shawl indicates whether she is happy or sad.  Marriage is for life but before that couple live together for up to 3-years to decide if they are right for each other and all weddings take place on 2^nd May attended by all 3000 islanders.  We have time to wander around and observe village life before heading to the other side of the island.  The lake is a beautiful blue colour the landscape really interesting with lots of terraces.  The tour stops at a restaurant for lunch but it is only 10.30am and the few of us that are not hungry carry on back to the boat.  The whole trip is really well organised and Steve has to admit that he is glad have done it.  Arrive back in Puno at 3pm getting back to our hotel minutes ahead of a heavy downpour.  Steve is spoilt for choice with football on the telly and also being played in the stadium beneath our window. 

PUNO, AMERICA INN

TUESDAY 27 October – Catch the 7.30am Pan American bus to Copacabana, PS15 (£3.30).  Our journey follows the shore of Lake Titicaca and after about 2-hours we are in the last Peruvian town where the bus stops for 10 minutes for people to change money.  And so after 3 weeks in Peru we reach the border and complete exit formalities then walk a short distance to gain entry into BOLIVIA, (30 days), where the coach picks us up.  Currency is the Boliviano with approx 11Bs = £1.  Bolivia is 1-hour ahead of Peru making us now 4-hours behind England which is now on GMT.  It is only 8km to the lakeside resort of Copacabana.  This is a famous pilgrimage centre combined with a tourist spot.  There are plenty of bottom and middle end hotels and we pick “Wendy Mar” a modern hotel with cable TV and breakfast for Bs 80 (£7.20).  They have a laundry service at Bs10 (90p) kilo which I am happy to use as I am now wearing my last outfit of clean clothes.  It is a busy little town with lots of small shops selling drinks and many booths offering tours to the Isla Del Sol and bus tickets.  The cathedral is very unusual and almost looks like a mosque with many domed outbuildings but we can’t find the door that leads us to the room where the famous “Virgen de Copacabana” is encased in glass.  Steve finds a bar to watch football in the afternoon and also eats there.  In the evening we walk along the waterfront and select from the numerous restaurants offering much the same menu of trout in various forms at Bs18 (£1.60). 

COPACABANA, MAR WENDY

Bs 80 (£7.20) Inc breakfast

WEDNESDAY 28 OCTOBER – The main thing to do here is visit the sacred islands.  Having already done an overnight island trip we kick out that option and with Liverpool playing this afternoon the whole day trip is off.  A half day tour leaves at 8.30am and visits the southern part of Isla Del Sol, Bs15 (£1.35).  It takes just over an hour to get there and we land at the bottom of the famous “Escalera Del Inca”, Inca steps.  Climbing up these leads us to the “Fuente Del Inca”, Inca fountain.  We have a long enough stop to climb higher for the views.  Lake Titicaca is a beautiful blue and with the islands it has a Mediterranean feel.  Unfortunately the lake water remains at 9C all year so far too cold to swim in.  Our next stop just around the corner is Templo Pilcocaina ruins, nothing to write home about.  Overall it has been a nice boat ride but I think to really appreciate the island you need to do the day tour and hike from north to south.  We get chatting to fellow tourists and end up getting together for a drink when we get back at 12.30pm.  Carlos is a travel agent from Buenos Aires whilst Alexis is Peruvian and a photographer and his girlfriend Jessica is from Bolivia.  Alexis insists on ordering a bottle of the local spirit to be drunk with Sprite, ice and a squeeze of lime.  Both Jessica and I opt out and leave the men to the hard stuff.  Bar owner Faro from Chile joins them and as the bottle goes down the guitar and drums come out.  Suddenly Steve is speaking much better Spanish and has the hang of playing the tom tom!  Faro entertains us with his diablo stunts and even manages to have it running along the telegraph wires.  Jessica and I order meals whilst the lads enjoy a liquid lunch.  Carlos leaves to catch the bus to La Paz but it is 3.30pm before we leave the bar, only for Steve and Alexis to move on to the one showing the Liverpool match.  I return to the hotel to await Steve’s return at 6pm when he is just about fit enough to strip off and roll into bed. 

COPACABANA 2, MAR WENDY

THURSDAY 29 October – After breakfast we set out to climb the hill “Cerro Calvario”.  The trail follows the “stations of the cross” up to the summit which is dotted with strange stone altars where pilgrims burn offerings.  In fact we see quite a few fake $100 notes that have not burnt properly.  The views in all directions make it worth the effort and boy was it an effort battling against the cool air and altitude.  We wander round the town where many stalls sell the giant popcorn made from the world’s largest corn grown in the region.  Last night Steve can’t remember much about walking home but in his pocket were details of our rendezvous with Alexis who has invited us to share his taxi to La Paz.  We meet them at 1pm; he is not well as he went out drinking again yesterday evening.  Our journey takes us along the shores of Lake Titicaca with some splendid views.  At one point we have to cross a narrow part of the lake on a ferry.  I use the term loosely as they are individually owned sort of flat barges with a low powered outboard motor.  You drive on forwards and head towards the back of the boat on a slope enabling the uncovered front end to rise out of the water.  The same boats also take coaches and lorries and they look really strange nosing down towards the back, reckon we would have been having a fit if we had needed to drive our motorhome onto one!  It is a very short distance but takes over 20 minutes to cross.  Alexis is a photographer so has the driver make many stops so we can take photos of the lake and the snow capped mountains.  Approach to La Paz is at the high level where the poorer people live.  Traffic is horrendous and every other vehicle seems to be a mini bus.  In the centre they are controlling traffic by banning certain number plates on specific days and today our taxi cannot enter.  Alexis has booked a hotel in the centre so has to take a different taxi.  He will accept nothing towards the fare and leaves us in his original taxi to continue to our destination.  We are Couchsurfing with Ronnie who has directed us to an area near where he works but we are over 1-hour early.  With time to kill I get a haircut, Bs25 (£2.25) and do some Internet work.  Ronnie arrives around 6.45pm and gets us all into a taxi out to his home south of the city.  He was born in La Paz but has spent time living in Germany.  Although he is a civil engineer he designed his hour on 3 stories with lots of attractive features.  We are offered the study complete with bed, chair bed, mattress on the floor and 2 arm chairs.  Ronald asks if we like curry as he has arranged to meet some people in town for a meal.  Not only do we like curry but the place he suggests “Star of India” is the one our friend recommended as does the Rough Guide.  We need to return to the city and public transport options here range in price order from private taxi, trufis (shared taxi with fixed route), mini bus to big bus.  A ride in the trufi is Bs3 (27p) pp and takes us to the main square.  From there we walk to meet up with fellow Couchsurfers from France Olivier and Viviane and Ronald’s friend.   The curry house is packed out so we go for a drink then return to eat just after 10pm.  On the menu is “the world’s most dangerous” vindaloo, extremely hot and anyone who can eat it gets a special t-shirt to say they survived it.  Steve is seriously tempted other than the fact it is so late at night.  The food is good and we enjoy the company but are whacked by the time we get back.

LA PAZ, COUCHSURFING WITH RONALD

FRIDAY 30 OCTOBER – Ronnie has left for work by the time we get up.  La Paz is the capital of Bolivia and the highest capital in the world at over 3500m.  Today we want to visit the attractions in the city centre.  Leaving Ronnie’s in daylight we realise what as fantastic area we are in.   Not only do you have the distant backdrop of the snow capped Andes but closer to the city are amazing rock formations much like the badlands in America.  We take a minibus Bs2.30 (20p) into the main square then set out on foot.  Immediately get side tracked by visiting the free folklore museum.  The exhibition of death masks is brilliant.  Calle Jaen is a really attractive narrow street with lovely buildings and many museums.  A combined ticket to 4 of them is 4BS (35p).  Unfortunately we are visiting at the same time as many school children and the closed in rooms end up being a bit whiffy.  One group of kids are kept in check crocodile style as they are all holding loops either side of a long piece of fabric.  Most attractions are close together and we easily make our way around.  In Plaza Alonso de Mendoza there are lots of stalls selling fruit and drinks.  A huge blackcurrant milkshake plus a big fruit salad is a bargain at Bs9 (80p) for the two.  We are surprised to see lots of people using box cameras but it is just a tourist attraction. The adjacent Museo Tambo Quirquincho, Bs1 (9p) is in a lovely building and also contains a quirky art exhibition.  We see 4 large stuffed dummies hanging from a balcony, they are wearing pink mini dresses but when we get down to the courtyard we can see they have male genitalia hanging down!  One rooms has the walls and floor covered with white painted car tyres and lots of mirrors hung up to enhance the effect.  There’s a street nearby known as “Gringo Alley” with tourist shops, travel agents and restaurants.  This leads us to the “witches market” where we see shrunken dried alpaca foetuses used in witchcraft – Yuk.  After checking out the cathedrals and other museums Steve decides he is ready to tackle the vindaloo.  It is 3pm so we are the only people in the restaurant and chat to owner Matthew.  Steve takes his time and finishes the curry to earn himself the prized “I survived the world’s most dangerous vindaloo” T-shirt.  I take the menu of the day Bs 25 (£2.25) with the nicest mulligatawny soup I have ever tasted, curry of choice plus dessert.  We try to visit the free Post Office museum but it is closed on Fridays but what surprises us is that in the huge area in front of the counters are loads of stalls selling cakes and bread.  We have thoroughly enjoyed everything we have seen and done (far more than expected) so call it a day at 4.30 pm although it takes us 40 minutes to get back in a trufi.  Ronnie is going straight out after work so we settle in to watch a couple of movies.  Just before 10am we hear noise at the gate, Melissa (New Zealand) and her friend Adam (USA) returning Couchsurfers.  They have just been away on a jungle trip so we get to hear a bit about it. 

LA PAZ 2, COUCHSURFING WITH RONALD

SATURDAY 31 OCTOBER – Ronnie has suggested we join him for a typical Bolivian breakfast.  However having arrived home in the early hours this means we don’t set out until around 10.30am.  We go to the modern commercial centre nearby and up a side street call into a café.  Here we eat a kind of mini Cornish pasty, BS3.5 (30p), filled with either vegetables, chicken or beef.  They are delicious and we can see why the waitresses are dashing around with trays full of them.  Ronnie has to go to work but we stay in the area and at the Alexander café have all our needs met.  Steve watches the Liverpool match whilst I make use of the Wi-Fi.  Return after 2pm.  The problem with having my hair short is that each time I have it cut you can see the gray underneath so I have bought a colour to put on.  Spend the rest of the afternoon sat out on the balcony in the sun.  Ronnie gets back mid afternoon and goes to bed then Adam & Melissa return with bags of food from the market.  Adam cooks veggie pasta which we eat together in the kitchen.  Ronnie is holding a Couchsurfing party tonight, partly because it is Halloween but also in South America this is the holiday weekend for the “day of the dead”.  He has put out a general invitation on the website for an 8pm start.  A few people arrive early, each bringing some drinks and appropriate festive food – special biscuits and bread shaped like a mummified corpse with a face.  The party is on the top floor of the house so we drag cushions and mattresses up there and set out the food on a cloth in the centre of the floor.  Throughout the evening guests arrive, a couple of local Couchsurfing hosts but mainly visitors from around the world.  Ireland, Sweden, France, Italy, Canada, Chile, USA. Bolivia, New Zealand and of course ourselves from England.  Pauline from Ireland seems very brave to us having arrived in Chile with her friend and bought motorbikes to tour South America having never had bikes before.  Local host Carla has 2 young children, lived and was married to a Belgian for many years.  Her son Thomas, 12, speaks English and seems to enjoy chatting to us.  Centre of the food is the largest bread and Steve ends up having the honour of breaking in to it.  He has to hold it in both hands like a baby with the head facing away from him, must then begin to tear pieces from the bottom and pass them around before taking one himself.  Around midnight the drink has run out so the bulk of the group head off to a bar whilst Melissa, Adam and we opt to stay behind.