glen's travel log

WEDNESDAY 11 NOVEMBER – Bruce & Louise are leaving today as the advance party heading to Salta.  Mid morning we take a taxi, AR$30 (£5) for the 20 minute 8km steep ride up the mountain.  At the top we want to do the walk to “Giganta  del Diablo”, AR$3 (50p).  Initially we walk down to the bottom of the gorge then follow the course of the stream hopping to a fro across it.  The rocks here are purple and turquoise and make a beautiful backdrop.  At the end of the gorge is the waterfall, so tempting to duck under it but signs tell us this is the towns water supply so no bathing.  Back tracking we go the opposite way following the water course channel, at one stage balancing on the edge of the channel with a sheer drop at the side of us.  You can continue this way to join the track back to town but it seems quite dangerous so we return to the entrance and the main road.  Further down the main road is a much easier and safer track of 4km taking us back to the village?  As we are now much higher we can see more of the orange/red uplift amongst the hills opposite – an amazing area for geology.  It only takes 45 minute to get back so we are glad we opted to do the hike rather than keep the taxi waiting.  In the evening we want to try a meal at the local cookery school, www.egma.com.ar  Fellow backpackers from Germany Andreas and Beata are game to join us.  The food is quite pricy by local standards so our hopes are high for some gourmet cuisine.  We share a platter of cheeses and meats as a starter. AR$36 (£6), then Steve has huge medallions of beef as his main whilst Beata & I do less well with the lasagne.  No sign of pasta just meat layered with creamed purple mashed corn.  Overall not a huge success.

TILCARA 4

THURSDAY 12 NOVEMBER – Our last day here so we have a lie in then relax on our terrace.  Book the Balut bus to Salta for tomorrow, AR$38 (£6.40) and we are given seats 1 and 2.  These are at the top of the bus at the front and in other South American countries are known as the death seats but hopefully not here in Argentina where driving standards seem higher. Take lunch at the local restaurant then home again.    Laze around and watch a movie in the evening, thank you Bobby for putting so many on my hard drive.

TILCARA 5

FRIDAY 13 NOVEMBER –   As we have stayed for 5 nights Danny kindly charges us AS$70 per night the same as the other room.  Both he and his nephew Pablo have been brilliant in offering us lots of help and travel advice.  It is Friday 13^th, a good day to travel or not – time will tell.    We rather enjoy the front seats at the top of the bus as we have a panoramic view of the scenery.  At Salta bus station there are a few hotel touts.  We are amazed to be offered the 3* Cumbre Hotel with a double en-suite and buffet breakfast for AR$80 (£13).  It looks lovely in the brochure and we fear there is a catch but with a free taxi ride there with and commitment what do we have to lose?  It lives up to the brochure pictures and the price includes free internet, cable TV and air-con.  We are a little further from the centre than other hotels but it makes for an interesting walk.  Surrounding the main square are numerous fascinating sculptures made out of scrap metal.  The main cathedral looks very pretty in pink but a couple of blocks away the church of San Francisco is magnificent.  It has the most unusual entrance doors with concrete shaped to look like a curtain pelmet above each one.  As we walk back the streets are coming to life and our area seems to be full of hairdressers and wholesalers selling sweets and packaged cakes.   We have to double back to find a restaurant and I get a shock when my AR$15 (£2.50) promotion meal arrives. A 1 litre bottle of coke and a 12” pizza, no wonder the waitress was confused when Steve ordered another meal for himself. 

SALTA, CUMBRE HOTEL www.cumbrehotel.com.ar

AR$80 (£13) Inc buffet breakfast

SATURDAY 14 NOVEMBER – Bruce & Louise are due back in town this morning so we hang around until mid day then decide we need to get things done.  At the bus station we buy our onwards tickets to Chile with Gemini’s, AR$170 (£28).  At a tour office we book to go to Cafayate tomorrow and Cachi on Monday, ARS190 (£32) for the two a saving of AR$50 on booking separately.   Just after we get back to our hotel Louise arrives.  After their stay on the ranch they were dropped at a hotel in the city centre and she has left Bruce there sleeping.  Our hotel has a swimming pool that is closed until December but at the moment they give you free tickets to use another one.  Steve is glued to the TV watching sport Louise & I decide to go for a swim.  Unfortunately the baths are public ones and heaving with kids so we pass.  In the evening we are supposed to meet Bruce & Louise in the square at 7pm but around 6 the heavens open up with thunder and lightning.  The rain is so bad that the street quickly floods with cars having a hard time getting through.  It’s a fair walk to the square so we cop out.  Needing to eat Steve pops to the shop next door which is also flooded so the man has people waiting at the door and passes stuff out to them. 

SALTA 2, CUMBRE HOTEL

SUNDAY 15 NOVEMBER – Up just after 6am as our tour bus should arrive between 6.45 and 7.15.  Breakfast starts at 6.30 so we fit that in.  Just about to give up when the bus arrives at 7.45 as we are the last pick up.  Bruce & Louise made it to the square 10 minutes late, and eventually figured we were no shows.  Our tour bus takes us out into the country and after an hour or so we reach the gorges which impressive rocks.   Garganta Del Diablo (Devils Throat) is one stop as is the natural amphitheatre with acoustics proven by amateur musicians.  Other rocks are shaped like a duck, titanic, frog and prince.  En route guide Pablo has us chewing coca leaves and we reckon this helps us see the shapes!   Cafayate is in the middle of the wine region and we call in at a winery before lunch.  The dry aromatic white is delicious.  In the town the tour stops at a restaurant for lunch but it is packed out and has loud music.  We have 2 hours until meeting up in the square so find our own place and wash down our tasty food with a litre of wine.  A second winery is the next stop with a few more photo stops in the gorges on the way out.  All in all an interesting trip.  Back in Salta we go for a final drink and snack with Louise & Bruce (they are flying to Buenos Aires tomorrow).  Leaving the restaurant it is raining heavily so we call it a night.

SALTA 3, CUMBRE HOTEL

MONDAY 16 NOVEMBER – Well this morning our wakeup call is late and the bus is early – typical.  The bus is only half full but we drive up onto a housing estate, with fine views over the city, and pick up a family group of 11 people.   For over an hour we drive out towards Cachi then begin to climb the mountains.  We are the only English speakers on board so guide Monika just gives us an abbreviated version of the talk.  Today we are going to traverse 4 areas of vegetation beginning in a cloud forest jungle.  Walking just a few yards into the forest we can see the strange moss on the trees and the way many of them have roots growing upwards out of the earth whilst others cling to rock walls.  The next area higher up is sparse trees, occasional cactus and farming.  One of the many stops is so we can walk over an old road bridge.  It is made of planks going across with other lengthwise for the vehicles.  One lady opts to walk in the middle but doesn’t notice the gaps.  Her leg falls through one and her camera drops to the river below.  Luckily she has just grazed her leg and her camera falls onto gravel beside the water and still works once retrieved.  Meanwhile our driver is mending a puncture from where he hit one of the rocks from the recent rain induced rock falls.  We then begin the climb proper, a steep ascent along valleys then directly up with lots of hair pin bends.  The minerals in the rocks create amazing colours.  It takes 40 minutes to climb the famous bishops something or other.  Up and eventually above the clouds we reach a plateau.  We travel part of the famous Inca road.  Here they achieved the amazing feat of producing a road over 20km long with only 3cm deviation from the straight.  They did this by building at night and lining up torch bearers to show the way.  We are now in a forest of Cordones cactus and hear the fascinating story of how they are born and live to over 400 years.  Higher still we meet local people selling all kinds of herbs and spices very cheaply.  These are the families of the “gauchos” who live off the land and still farm in the primitive manner.  The lunch stop is at a rather posh and expensive restaurant in the middle of nowhere.   Steve orders the starter of roasted lamb tripe and says it is excellent.  Once we arrive in Cachi we have 1-hour to look around.  Probably about 45 minutes too long as other than the streets having high pavements, to enable the short women and children to mount horses, there is little of interest.  In fact most of these tours could be at least 1/3 shorter if they didn’t take such frequent and long stops.  Even a toilet break ends up being ½ hour.  The journey back is in better weather so we manage to stop at a few viewpoints that on the way up were shrouded in cloud.  It is still a long haul and we don’t get back until after 8pm.  It is funny when Monika does her final speech and thanks us for being nice English people, always smiling laughing and being funny and not as she expected!

SALTA 4, CUMBRE HOTEL

TUESDAY 17 NOVEMBER – Another early morning start.   Our Geminis bus leaves at 7am and is nice and comfortable.  We do two pickups en route then begin to head toward the “Jama Pass”.  It is a spectacular journey and we wonder why we bothered with the last two trips – isn’t hindsight wonderful.   We get to see all the coloured rocks in the Quebrada de Humahuaca then climb up the mountains just like yesterday.  On the plateau we cross numerous salt pans.  Lunch is a couple of sandwiches and a wafer biscuit washed down with Coke.  Funnily enough we are served this whilst bouncing along then shortly after we stop at the Argentinean exit border.  As the exit stamp formalities take quite some time it would have been so easy to serve lunch whilst waiting there.  It is a desolate place with nothing other than the few customs buildings.  It is 160km’s from here to the first town in CHILE where we will complete arrival formalities.  Many stretches of road are long and flat but we also do more up and down mountain climbs with views, interesting sand dunes and rock formations.  In the afternoon we get a hot drink and a croissant.  Now why serve this on a nice flat stretch of road when you can pull up on a slope, serve the drinks then set off on a bumpy winding stretch downhill.   At San Pedro the customs office is at the edge of town and would be very easy to skip if you were so inclined.  All our bags have to off loaded, searched then put back on for the 2 minute journey to the bus stop.   We’ve arranged to be met by Couchsurfing host Marta at the bus station but we just arrive at a dusty car park.  No sign of Marta but by the time our bags are unloaded she has arrived.  Walking through the town we can tell it is really only thriving due to tourism.  It is said to be the most expensive town in Chile, even more expensive than Santiago the capital.  The ATM is out of order but Hostal “Corvatsch” takes credit cards.  Chilean Pesos 800 = £1 so our basic room with just beds and a table at CH$15,000 works out at just short of £20.  En suite rooms are roughly double so we may not be having many of those!    The main attractions here are the tours of the salt pans, geysers etc but the reason we have stopped is that it was the first possible break in the journey.  We wander around the town with narrow dirt streets and are amazed to see a motorhome coming towards us.  Even more surprisingly it is a conventional European “A” class with Italian plates.  The other motorhomes we have seen have been converted Mercedes panel vans.  Before we get near enough to be able to direct him to the campground he takes a wrong turn then has to battle down a narrow street.  In the evening Marta calls round for us along with her Couchsurfing guests Sarah from Australia and Romulo from Brazil.  We head to “La Estaka” because Couchsurfer Siobhan from New Zealand works there.  It is one of the most expensive restaurants in town so we have a drink and share a starter platter between us.  We draw inspiration from Siobhan’s trip through the Middle East and love hearing the other travel stories.

SAN PEDRO DE ATACAMA. HOSTAL CORVATSCH

CH$15,000 (£19) basic room no bathroom

WEDNESDAY 18 NOVEMBER – Not happy without a bathroom, when I need the loo in the night I find that there is no water, someone has done a poo in the one with the light and the other is dark.  Worse still we are underneath an en-suite room and they are forever flushing their toilet.  We want to do the walk to Valley of the Moon, according to the map 4km from town.  The hostal has no luggage storage and you have to vacate your room by 11am and Marta is picking us up here at 1pm  The owner says we cannot stay there as water is short in Atacama and they only have enough for departing guests until 11am and new guests from then onwards so we would not be able to even use the toilet if we waited!  She suggests leaving our luggage with the bus company and as we cannot reach Marta on the phone this is our only option.  We walk to Frontera office but have to wait for them to open.  Book our ticket to Calama for 16.15hrs, CH$2500 (2.80) and leave the bags.  Walking out towards the desert it is not clear which track we should take.  We ask a few people and get varying answers from unknown to 15km up the road.  As we started late it is really hot so we just do a short walk to enjoy the scenery then return to the hostal to visit the bathroom before the 11am lockout.  Phone Marta and meet in the square then go back to her place, collecting our bags en route as she says she doesn’t trust Frontera.  Along with Siobhan she is renting a room in a small house.  It is of traditional adobe construction and has big tyres built into the walls as window frames.  Sarah left this morning to hitch to Antofagasta but they have another friend Almenada round.  Early afternoon we go for lunch at “Delicias del Carmen” where we both try some typical Chilean food.  This has been another excellent Couchsurfing experience including meeting very interesting and intrepid young female travellers.  On the bus we travel for about 10 minutes out of town before the driver pulls up and comes round to collect our tickets.  Arrive in the city of Calama after about 1 ½ hours and only have a few minutes to wait before our host Oscar arrives.  He is very enthusiastic to improve his English.  He owns a large building with many of rooms and has a spare one for guests whilst the other rooms are rented out to the miners.  The biggest and largest producing copper mine in the world is nearby and the men come here from all over the country for the work.  Oscar has plans to turn it into a backpacker’s hostel in the future.  Once we are settled in we all go for a walk around town with Oscar.  It is much nicer than we expect and will give us plenty to explore tomorrow.  Stop for some delicious empanadas as supper before returning and watching TV in our room.

CALAMA, COUCHSURFING WITH OSCAR

THURSDAY 19 NOVEMBER – We are both happy to have a lie in, there is a bit of noise when the miners leave at 5am but it is quiet after that.  Oscar suggests we join him and his sister, Sibyla, for breakfast so we go out with him to buy fresh bread.  The bread he chooses is actually dry and flattish like a cross between a scone, a bread roll and a slap of pastry.   They eat this with butter and cheese and often have the same in the evening.  Oscar is really keen to practice his English and learn more about travelling so we spend as much time with him as we can.  Explore a bit of the town and book our onward ticket with Pullman to Caldera CH$14,000 (£17.50)..  We didn’t want to do any more long bus journeys but the 12-hour one tomorrow will get us to a coastal resort and we need to see the ocean.  The one thing I am noticing in Chile is that they seem to understand my bad Spanglish much better than the people in the other countries but once they reply I can understand almost nothing.  They speak very quickly, miss the endings of words and often use slang.  Oscar has a number of copied movies in English so we spend part of the afternoon putting them on to our computer.  He invited us up for tea and more of a chat.  Later in the evening his sister arrives with her friend Monika who is doing a European trip in January.  We look through her 17-day itinerary and offer a few suggestions and she seems really pleased but would really have liked us to go and stay with her to chat more.

CALAMA 2, COUCHSURFING WITH OSCAR

FRIDAY 20 NOVEMBER – Oscar sees us off in a shared taxi to the bus station, CS$500 (65p) pp.  The bus station appears to have a resident population of dogs, we see over 20 hanging out there.  Stray dogs do seem to be a big problem in Chile but at least they seem placid.  Our bus arrives a little late but is a very comfortable 2-storey one.  We have the panoramic seats at the front but the view is obscured by the “Elqui Bus” sign across the window directly in front of us.  Heading out into the desert the scenery is very similar all the way to Antofagasta.  This is a large industrial city but our first view of the Chilean coast.  Onwards the scenery gradually changes from sandy desert to stony then dirt and finally nice granite rocks.  There are many shrines along the way, often very large ones dedicated to saints.  Just outside Caldera we are stopped for a drug inspection.  A dog comes on board and sniffs our bags then also the luggage compartment.  We comment on what amazing obedient and well trained dogs they are.  A few minutes later we see him running off into the bush with the handler having a hard time getting him to come back to the amusement of everyone on the bus.  In Caldera our Couchsurfing host lives just a block from the bus station and we are soon in Andres home.  He speaks very good English and works with the schools setting up libraries.  His home is directly behind the fishing beach and we have a separate room with 2 sofas and mattresses to sleep on so will be very comfy.  His girlfriend Priscilla returns from doing a big shop in the city of Copiapo, about 1-hour away.  She speaks no English but understands some.  We pop out to pick up some drinks and get a quick orientation walk of the small town.  It is after 10pm by the time we eat and midnight before bed but Andres & Priscilla are then in full flow and head off to party leaving us to retire. 

CALDERA 1, COUCHSURFING WITH ANDRES

SUNDAY 1 November 2009 – We are keen to visit the main La Paz cemetery for the interesting tombs and sculptures and to see how they celebrate the “day of the dead”.  Along with Adam and Melissa we take a mini bus directly there, Bs2.50 (23p).  The street leading to the cemetery is cordoned off and sellers of flowers and vases are doing a roaring trade.  Almost every niche, grave and mausoleum has fresh flowers and at a few graves the relatives are gathered making the offerings of bread and biscuits.  The food is all flavourless to start with but the thought is that overnight the spirit of the dead person sucks the flavour out of them so that when the relatives return and eat them the next day they are bland.  In the nearby streets we come upon a fish market with many restaurants.  We opt for one in a huge hall packed with locals.  A band arrives to play and after the first song they make a point of asking everyone to welcome the tourists then ask us where we are all from.  There’s a football match on this afternoon and the others want to go but I am not keen so we split up.  It is a local derby with The Strongest v Bolivar.  They take a mini bus to the stadium whilst I head towards Achumani.  I want to cook us all a meal for tonight so get off at the hypermarket to buy the where with all.  Arrive back just after 4pm and prepare a giant size cottage pie and layered desserts in glasses.  The football fans arrive back just before 8pm, the match started an hour later than they expected and Bolivar won 3-0 and they think it was the first leg of a play off to compete in the South American cup next year.  Admission was only Bs 20 (£1.80) and they have all enjoyed the experience.  Ronald arrives shortly after and then I serve dinner which goes down well.

LA PAZ 4, COUCHSURFING WITH RONNIE

MONDAY 2 NOVEMBER – We are moving on today but unfortunately the only buses to our destination are night ones.  Spend the day chilling out, watching a movie and cooking up dinner from left overs.  At the bus station we find that all the companies charge the same price however Copacabana, Trans Copacabana and Bolivia have been recommended to us as having a better safety record.  Trans Copacabana is the only one doing our route and we book on the 7.30pm taking the cama (reclining seat) class at Bs90 (£8).  There are only 4 seats left on the bus and the 2 together are right at the back so we have little choice.  Opposite us are a couple from New Zealand so at least we have someone to chat to whilst the Spanish movie blares out.  The first part of the journey is flat good road surface but once we start to climb the mountains we are almost shaken out of our seats going over bumps.  The engine is below us and Bolivian driving style seems to involve dropping into neutral and coasting where possible then kicking back into gear and cranking up the revs so very noisy.  Even worse are the stretches of dirt road with dust coming in and almost choking us.  Needless to say we get very little sleep.

BUS FROM LA PAZ TO SUCRE

TUESDAY 3 NOVEMBER – Arrive in Sucre at 8am.  In the bus station there is a warning sign to say they recommend taking the official taxis to town and to beware of “fuked” policemen – luckily we know it was meant to say fake.  Share a ride with Bruce and Louise and settle into Joy Ride café for a nice breakfast.  Steve & Bruce head off in search of a room and are gone for ages.  When they return they have found nothing, all the accommodation is higher priced and poorer quality than we have been used to.  Together we check out a couple of options and end up settling on The Grand, an attractive colonial house with courtyards but tired rooms and lumpy pillows - not half as tired as we are as we flop on the beds.  Unluckily outside our room window is the next building with a family on their terrace who keep shouting.   After a couple of short naps we give up, change rooms then go for a stroll.  Sucre is a UNESCO site because of the beautiful buildings, all painted white.  They are very attractive but none of them seem exceptional, maybe we are just too tired to enjoy it all.  In the evening Louise & I pop out to get some drinks and food.  Suddenly the city has come to life with the streets heaving with people and buildings attractively lit up.  We pick up a huge pizza and eat it in our room before playing cards.

SUCRE, THE GRAND

Bs 160 (£15) Inc breakfast

THURSDAY 5 November – Getting information on bus times is difficult as each travel agent sells tickets for just one company and will only give you their times.   Bruce & Louise know to their cost that many agents charge a high commission; they paid BS140 for their ticket to Sucre through an agent whilst we paid Bs90 at the bus station.  We take a taxi to the bus station.  It pulls up on the main street outside and before we can even open the door we are mobbed by people trying to sell us tickets.  We ask the driver to move into the safety of the bus terminal car park as it is a bit overwhelming.  Once there we have only one person trying to sell us a ticket, for the 10.30am “Trans Villa Imperial” bus at Bs15 (£1.35).  I ask to see the bus and it is a basic coach but the tyres look OK!  Walking around the terminal there are no other buses leaving before 12.00 so we settle on this one.  Being loaded onto the top of the bus is the bottom part of an old coffin with viewing window.  There’s no one in it so we surmise that they re use the same coffin for many people.  This is definitely the local chicken bus but fortunately the chickens go underneath with the baggage.  As people board we have 2 lots who try to claim our seats.  The seat numbers are on our tickets but they also have tickets with the same number – maybe there are many people selling the same bus seats but not co-ordinating information.  We refuse to move on the basis of first in best dressed.  It is 11am by the time there are enough people on board to make it worthwhile setting off.  It is a jolly bus, without air-con we have the windows open, local music blares out and we are entertained first by a salesman with a product like tiger balm and then by various vendors who hop aboard.  It does lots of pickups and drop offs and we are a little concerned when that when people take baggage off and the driver finds a can of opened white paint in the locker.   We get good value for money as our 3-hour journey takes over 4.  Arrive in Potosi at 3.15pm and our baggage has escaped the paint spill.  Potosi is the highest city in the world, 4100m.  It was founded in 1545 when a llama herder was stuck on the mountain Cerro Rico at night, lit a fire and then saw molten silver trickle from the blaze.   Within 20 years Potosi was the richest single source of silver in the world.  The boom came and went and now the city is mining tin.  Finding a room is almost as bad as in Sucre but having found a couple that are too expensive and one that is too basic we settle into Hostel Campania de Jesus with en-suite doubles at BS 110 inc breakfast.  The main attraction here is to do the mine tours but the tours into the real working mines with appalling conditions are not recommended for people with various medical conditions including asthma.  Even today the average life span of someone working in the mines is only 10-years.  Walking the city with Bruce & Louise there are quite a few impressive buildings built during the mining boom.  Rough Guide has recommended El Fogon for good steaks and rightly so.  For Bs38 (£3.40) I get an excellent steak, cooked to perfection, with peppercorn sauce, chips and rice.  Steve’s order comes completely wrapped in foil and is spaghetti with steak, prawns, mushrooms and a creamy sauce.  Walking back to our hostel we get to appreciate the floodlit buildings.  Watch a movie on the laptop to round off the evening.  Nights are obviously cold here as we have 5 very heavy blankets plus a quilt on the bed but we feel brave enough to discard 3 blankets and lighten the load.  We both still struggle to breath in the thin air at this altitude.  With hindsight we should have given Sucre and Potosi a miss and gone straight to Uyuni as the cities themselves were not worth the detour.

POTOSI, HOSTEL CAMPANIA DE JESUS

Bs 110 (£10) Inc breakfast

THURSDAY 5 NOVEMBER – Bruce & Louise want to buy some handicrafts in Potosi so have decided to stop on for another night.  We catch the 10am basic bus to Uyuni, Bs 30 (£2.70).  After about 1 hour the tarmac road finishes and we are on dirt and dust.  Our journey takes us across the desert with fantastic scenery.  We travel along the edge of gorges then drop down into them and up the other side.  At one point there is a lorry unable to make the climb out and he ends up backing down to allow us to pass.  The rock formations and colours are amazing as are the many oasis.  A ½ stop for lunch keeps us on track arriving in Uyuni at 4pm.  We half fall for the spiel of one of the touts and check out the Hotel Intel that is part of their package.  Now we need to price the tours to find out if the complete package is a good deal.  Uyuni is a flat desolate outback town but buzzing with tour offices.  We want to do the 1-day tour to the salt pans.  To cut a long story short we decide to take up Laura’s deal until we find she wants Bs300 pp not for us both.  It works out better for us to pay for the hotel at Bs100 (£9) and book the tours with Maria at Brisa Tours for Bs120 (£10.50) pp.  At the Minuteman restaurant within Tonino Hotel we enjoy homemade lemonade, chocolate cake and apple pie and ice cream.  Walk back through the market area where many streets are full of stalls selling all manner of things. 

UYUNI, HOTEL INTI

Bs100 (£9)

FRIDAY 6 November – We drop off our laundry, grab some breakfast and arrive at the train station when the ticket office opens at 9am.  We buy tickets on the Expreso Del Sur train to Villazon leaving at 10.40pm, Bs63 (£5.70).  We take our luggage to be stored at Brisa Tours and await the arrival of our 4wd car.  The street is full of cars with most having luggage loaded onto the roof for the 3 day trips.  A car turns the corner and the spare tyre falls off the roof and begins bouncing down the street, luckily no harm is done.   At the last minute another tour company merges with ours (common practice here) so we have Swiss couple Pius and Margaret for company.  Our driver Richard is accompanied by his wife, (the cook), and son.  First stop is the famous train graveyard on the outskirts of town.  Dozens of rusty engines line the track and make an amazing sight and photo opportunity.  Our guide speaks no English but we do catch another guide telling his group about Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid coming through this way on a train.  Our next stop is back in town as a couple on a 4-day tour need to join us for the first day, Rob & Rachel cousins from Ireland.  It is quite a drive out to the salt pan and we learn that Pius and Margaret have been on the road for 3-years cycling, originally from Switzerland to Japan and then from Mexico down to here.  They are in their 60’s and camp most nights. Along with loads of other tour cars we stop at the village of Colchani where artists have made things from the salt ranging from small souvenirs to life sized llama statues.  We see a demonstration of how the women each pack up to 1000 bags of table salt per day by hand sealing the bags with a basic gas burner.  We arrive at the “Salinas de Uyuni”, the biggest salt flats in the world and an incredible sight very much like a huge frozen lake.   The flat white surface stretches into the distance enabling you to do trick shots with the cameras as there is nothing for perspective.   Unfortunately our old camera only has a very small screen which makes it difficult to see properly but we have fun trying.  Nearby Hotel De Sal has just about everything made out of salt blocks, the building, the furniture, bases for the beds plus carvings.  There’s even a small salt paddling pool outside.  Driving for over an hour we reach “Fish Island”, an amazing sight rearing up in the middle of the flats.  It is a protected site so you have to pay Bs15 (£1.35) admission in order to do the hike over the island.  Surround it are many salt and rock tables and chairs and each tour group commandeers one.  Richard tells us to do the hike whilst they prepare lunch.  The island is volcanic and covered in huge cactus.  Climbing to the top we get superb views of the island and surroundings.   After a late lunch most of the 1 day tours return to Uyuni but we have to drop Rob and Rachel at Tunupa volcano which they will climb tomorrow morning.  For about 1-hour we drive over the flats and as we get closer have fine views inside the cone of the volcano with many colours.  We are dropped at an area with flamingos and llamas whilst the others are taken to their basic accommodation for the night.  A final stop on the way back is at some bubbling cold pools.  It is 6pm when we get back to town and Bruce & Louise are at Brisa Tours waiting for us.  They are staying at Inti Hotel and are booking the 1-day tour with Maria following our recommendation.  Together we go for a Minuteman Pizza, then return to play cards with them.   At 10pm we are at the station checking our bags in.  The train has similar, but slightly less comfortable, seats to the coaches and we settle in for a long night.  There is a man directly in front of me who snores like a pig and extremely loudly.  We have no chance of sleeping.

TRAIN FROM UYUNI TO VILLAZON

SATURDAY 7 NOVEMBER – The train stops a couple of times en-route and at Tupiza the snorer gets off giving us chance for a couple of hours of snatched naps.  Arrive in Villazon around 7am.  Turning right out of the station it is about a 20 minute walk to the border and over the bridge to ARGENTINA.  Leaving Bolivia is just a quick stamp but entering Argentina is quick for the entry stamp (no paperwork) but then a long wait in line for a thorough baggage search.  We see a sign 5121km to Ushuaia, the most southern part of the country; we are going there but cheating a bit and doing it as part of our Antarctica cruise.  Although we are still the same longitude as Bolivia we put our clocks forward 1-hour (3 hours behind GMT) to take into account that the capital Buenos Aires is on the east coast.  Currency is the peso, approx AR$ 6 = £1.  We have been chatting to an Israeli couple behind us and agree to share a taxi to the bus station.  Once there I pick up money from a nearby ATM and Steve checks out the bus times.  Most people go straight on to the big city of Salta but I think we have done enough travelling this last few days so suggest we just make the 3-hour journey to Humahuaca, AR$30 (£5).  Our bus doesn’t leave until 11.15am so we go to a nearby café.  Four of the people from our train are there and not happy.  They have just had one of their day packs stolen in the bus station.  Their luggage was all piled on a bench with the 2 lads watching it.  One of them was jostled from behind, turned around to see what was happening and when he turned back a bag was gone.   Loading our bags on the bus we learn there is an additional charge per bag seemingly - AR$1 for the locals and up to AR$6 for ignorant tourists!  We travel for about 1-hour then pull over for customs and immigration.  Everyone has to leave the bus with belongings, collect luggage then line up for inspection.  The women in a separate line to have their bags searched by women.   Finally reach our destination around 2pm and are the only ones to get off.  We know prices are going to be higher in Argentina but it is going to take some adjustment as the first rooms we check out are over £20 and nothing special.   We drop lucky when someone sends us to the campground.  They are in the process of renovating it but have some simple rooms.  A half done up one with bathroom and cold shower comes in at AR$50 (£9) and there are hot showers in the campsite block.  We both feel better after showering and donning clean clothes, sufficiently so that we set out to explore the town.  The most prominent feature is the “Independence Monument” up a hill where along with a fine sculpture we get great views of the multi colour hills behind the town.  The town is very sleepy with cobble stone streets and easy to get around but without any other outstanding features.  At this stage we are ready to have a few days rest but to do this we either want to be in a really interesting place or have nice accommodation so will continue the search tomorrow.    

HUMAHUACA, CAMPGROUND ROOM

AR$50 (£10)

SUNDAY 8 NOVEMBER – Catch the Jama bus to Tilcara, AR$5.5 (96p).  It is the next sizeable town down the track but half the populations of Humahuaca.  Turning off the highway we are in a compact area of dusty streets with a really basic bus station.  Begin our search for rooms as we walk towards the centre finding one possibility en route.  At the tourist office they have great information and mark the map with many places offering en suite rooms below AR$100.  Nearby Pablo gives us a card for his family run hostel and makes it sound good.  I leave Steve guarding the bags whilst I climb the hill to check it out.  Owner Danny has basic rooms and a couple with en-suite.  I like the one at the top of the building with its own private and secluded terrace even if it is AR10 more than the rest.  At AR$80 (£13) including breakfast it seems perfect and they even have free Internet.  Steve agrees and we settle ourselves in.  Setting out to explore the town we find the central area has stone streets and proper pavements, a tourist orientated market in the main square and numerous bars and restaurants.  Recommended by Danny, El Carmel in the square offers a 2-course lunch for AR$15 (£2.50).  We both have delicious meals and dessert, Steve has meat balls and I have meat cooked in wine.   Explore a bit more of the town then return to our room.   The terrace has a laundry sink so I catch up with the washing.  Late afternoon we return to town and stop by a hamburger stall for a snack.  There’s an ice cream stand next to it so this completes our evening meal.  A big waffle cone with 2 huge scoops of delicious Italian ice cream for AR$3.50 (60p) – bargain.  I can see us being here for a few days as there are lots of places nearby to explore.

TILCARA, LA ALBAHACA HOSTEL www.albahacahostel.com.ar

AR$ 80 (£13) including breakfast.

MONDAY 9 NOVEMBER – Well we didn’t quite get the peaceful night we hoped for.  The overflow on the roof tank kept playing up and periodically we could hear the water overflowing then drips of it coming into our room.  At breakfast Danny says he will get it fixed.  We walk up the hill to visit the ancient fortress of Pukara.  It was discovered just over 100 years ago and much has been reconstructed.  Luckily for us on Monday the archaeological site and museum are free.  Not only do we get to see a number of the buildings including a ceremonial centre and necropolis but the views are stunning. It turns out we are walking round back to front so miss many of the signs, including the one asking you not to go into the tombs – oops just took a photo with Steve inside one!   Tilcara is surrounded by hills half of which are multi colours of red and pink.  At the edge of the site is a botanical garden with many of the cactus found in Argentina.  Return to our terrace for a bit of sunbathing before heading to town for lunch.  Near the bus station we get a tasty 3-course meal for AR$10 (£1.70) and walk it off around the archaeological museum.  Steve says it feels really strange to be walking around without our backpacks and I have to agree.  At sunset we sit out on our terrace enjoying a drop of local wine, palatable but not great at AR$5 (85p) for a 1 litre carton.  Accompanied by crackers, cheese, tomatoes and crisps it is just like being back in the motorhome.  Around 7pm Louise & Bruce arrive.  They are very happy to take the other en-suite room here and join us for drinks and nibbles. 

TILCARA 2, LA ALBAHACA

TUESDAY 10 NOVEMBER – Louise makes it down to breakfast but Bruce prefers his sleep.  Steve & I head off to catch a bus to Purmamarca, AR$3 (50p).  This village is famous for the “Cerro Siete Colores” (hills of seven colours) and even approaching it we can see exactly why.  In fact seven is an understatement as the main hills are grey, purple and dark turquoise blue whilst the uplifted rocks amongst them are many shades of pink and orange.  We climb the hills and walk around the beautiful rocks, not only interesting for the colours but also the shapes.  It is quite a small area so takes less than 1-hour for us to explore.  Take the return bus to Maimara, AR$2 (35p).  This village is famous for the cemetery and this is where we alight.  It is interesting in that it is built into a hillside but not really worth the stop.  There is supposed to be a natural bridge here and we find the sign on the main road but then many tracks lead off with no further signs so we give up.  Return to Tilcara in a shared taxi then to our room for a siesta.  Bruce & Louise come round for a happy hour.  Danny is organising a BBQ for his guests, AR$20 (£3.30) but it doesn’t kick off until 9pm.  By that time we have all been having a few pre dinner drinks so are a very merry crowd.  The food is lettuce and tomato salad, various sausages, ribs and huge chunks of meat.  Amongst the guests are Americans, Germans, Argentineans and Spanish all with the common interest of travel so it is not surprising that it is midnight by the time we finish eating and chatting. 

TILCARA 3, LA ALBAHACA

WEDNESDAY 21 Oct. 09 – I’m surprised that we don’t sleep well as we have a quiet room and comfortable bed.  Leave at 4am and take a mototaxi to the station, PS2 (16p).  Our train leaves at 5.07am and there are a few empty seats so we pick two together on the left side of the train facing forwards.  The valley narrows and the mountains either side seem higher creating a most attractive backdrop.  We follow the course of the river passing small farming communities.  As we continue the landscape turns into jungle with lots of trees.  I spend most of the journey with my head poked out of the window taking dozens of photos as it is so attractive.  As we enter the village of Machu Picchu (also known as Aguas Calientes) we find the train is actually going along the main street with buildings less than a foot from the carriage.  In fact we can see right into them and spot people on beds and others sat in café’s, very funny.  Alighting from the train we make our way to the main square where the school is.  As it is twinned with Haworth and our grandchildren have a link with the pupils we intend to visit later.  Before we have begun to look for a room we are approached by Rolando who wants to show us “Hopedale Jarito” and tells us the room is PS20 (£4.40) pp which is very cheap for this town.  We walk up the steps of the hill where they have a ramp so you can drag your bags.  We are given a choice of 3 rooms, all of which would be acceptable, with en-suite and supposedly hot water.  All our information leads us to believe that the cheaper rooms have sporadic hot water but everything else is fine so we check in.  By 7am we are lying down taking a nap.  At 8am we set out to explore the town and to visit the school.  It is twinned with Haworth and the children have been writing to each other.  First we have to introduce ourselves to Sonia at the town hall, the co-ordinater of the twinning.  She takes us over to the school to meet headmaster Leonardo.  Together they take us into the top class where some of the pupils speak a little English.  They all seem delighted to see us and we explain that our granddaughter is one of the pupils in Haworth school; she is called Natasha and is 9 years old.  These students are 11 and 12 years old so we attempt to explain that our grandson Daniel aged 12 no longer goes to Haworth but to another school.  I chat to a few students individually and take E-mail addresses from those who would like to write to students from Haworth directly.  At the end I do a video and they all call out a greeting to the pupils in Haworth then do a special hello to Natasha.  At this stage it seems that the twinning is in the early stages as other than the school no one seems to know about it.  Now we are here we can see similarities in the towns.  Both tourist destinations both have a valley railway, both have narrow steep streets and in both schools the uniform is bright blue.  Set out to explore more of the town set on either side of the river and rail track.  It has a really nice feel to the place with very friendly people.  Walking up the narrow street towards the hot pools it is lined with restaurants and bars and we succumb to coffee and cake.  The hot pools, PS10 (£2.20) are higher upstream and set at the side of the river.  You enter them through a beautiful café area.  There are a number of pools of varying temperatures, size and type.  Some have a natural sand base others are tiled.  Spend a good hour or so just relaxing and admiring our surroundings of beautiful steep tree covered mountains with the clouds at the top.  Chat to an American couple from New York, Victor & Ena, who are originally from Russia and Ukraine.  We are getting on so well that they walk back to town with us and join us for lunch.  Many restaurants offer a set menu at PS15 (£3.30) and this is what we pick.  The game of jenga is set up on the table so we teach Victor & Ena how to play.  In the afternoon Steve watches sport in the bar whilst I do my diary and pictures.  Later on we set out for a stroll up the street, a bit of hassle from the restaurants but they do accept no quite readily.  We go to a place where they have happy hour 4 for 1 (it is not really as each individual drink is priced less and you would then get a larger one) at PS15 (£3.30) including tacos chips.  They put on a movie for us to watch and we settle in for a couple of hours and even end up ordering burger and chips.  The area feels like a nice backpacker resort and very relaxed.  Early to bed.

MACHU PICCHU, “JAIRITO”

Ps20 (£4.40) PP

THURSDAY 22 October – Up at 4.15am to join the line for the 5.30am bus.  Why?  Because only the first 400 people up at Machu Picchu get a ticket to climb “Huayna Picchu”, the mountain behind from which you get spectacular views.  I am not entirely sure whether I want to or am capable of making the climb but will leave it in the lap of the Gods!  The buses take you up a steep hill with 14 hair pin bends to get you to Machu Picchu which is on a kind suspended plateau between two mountains.  We are on about the 4^th bus so get our tickets stamped as number 91 and 92 to do the climb beginning at 7am.  The site opens at 6am and the complicated 3 stage ticket entry takes about 15 minutes but we still get our first glimpse of Machu Picchu as the sun rises, magnificent.  We feel we know the site having seen so many pictures and videos but its sheer size and beauty still impresses.  Making our way through to the far end of the site we duck into a few of the ruins.  There is now a line up for the mountain walk, the gates open at 7am and you have to sign into a register.  The first 200 can go up from 7am onwards and the next 200 from 10am.  The board says the climb takes about 1-hour but I will be just happy to make it in any time at all.  We overtake 3 people in the first minute, OK so the guy had just fallen down and was having his knee bandaged!  The walk begins will a few up and downhill steps, across a small ridge then to the mountain itself.  Onwards the walk is almost continuous steps, some so high there is a rope so you can haul yourself up.  I do the Andean walk of taking a pace then pausing before the next and thus keep going almost continuously without too much huffing and puffing.  Just before the top there is a terraced area with some ruins and we pause to take in the views.  The last stretch involves scrambling through a narrow cave and up some carved steps then a few more rock steps to the pinnacle.  Here people are just sitting around on the rocks enjoying the panoramic views.  It has taken us a little over 1-hour and we feel rather pleased with ourselves and so glad we made the effort.  Climbing down is considerably easier and quicker but we still reward ourselves by lying down on one of the grassy terraces for a bite of lunch – only we look at our watches and realise that although it feels like lunch time it is only 10am.  The site is getting busy so it is easy to hang around the ruins and listen to the tour guides although we still feel the setting and wandering around alone is the most enjoyable part.  By 11am we have finished and catch the bus back to Aguas Calientes.  No sooner have we stepped into our room than the heavens open up.  Talk about good timing.  After a hot shower we spend an hour or so resting then head off up the street for a feed.  It seems that happy hour and the special menus are all day so we pick on a PS15 (£3.30) menu with entrée, soup, mains, desert and wine.  I order the alpaca steak and it comes in a delicious sauces.  We play cards and want to linger after the mean so sign up for 4 of the happy hour drinks.  Return to our room after dark and watch a movie before bed.  We can now see how people do Machu Picchu in one day from Cusco as the site doesn’t take much looking round but much prefer the relaxed way we have done things.

AGUAS CALIENTES 2, JAIRITO

FRIDAY 23 October 2009 – It is nice to have a bit of a lie in although heavy rain did wake us in the early hours.  The train is late leaving and then doesn’t make the proper stop in Ollantaytambo because of the road works but drops us about 15 minutes further on.  Everything is geared up for this as a free mini bus takes us up to the main road where taxis are waiting.  We opt to stand at the roadside and flag down the next bus which happens to be a tour bus and gets us all the way to Cusco for PS5 (£1.10) pp.  It is a very scenic journey with glaciers visible on the mountains and some nice lakes.  Arrive back in Cusco early afternoon and the lads come up to let us into their home.  They have to work in the afternoon so we relax and watch a movie.  In the evening they return with 2 German girls and an American lad who are collecting their bags ready to catch a night bus plus Cecile who is staying over.  They sure enjoy having lots of visitors.  We want to take them out for a Thank You meal but it all goes a bit pear shaped when they get called back into work.

CUSCO, COUCHSURFING WITH RONNIE

SATURDAY 24 Oct. 09 – Catch the 8am “San Luis” bus to Puno, PS20 (£4.40).  Our journey begins in the mountains with lakes and snow capped peaks.  After a couple of hours we seem to be on a never ending plateau with a straight road.  At the last stop before Puno a guide gets on the bus promoting a new hotel.  Hotel America is in Puno and he is offering double rooms at PS40 (£8.80) with bathroom, internet and bus from the terminal to the hotel.  It is around 4pm when we arrive so we are happy to take up the offer even though someone says we should get rooms as low as PS25.  In fact it is a very nice hotel so we are confident in booking a 2 day, 1 night tour on Lake Titicaca with him.  He asks PS80 pp but we bargain him down to PS60 (£13.20).  We get to visit floating and fixed islands on the lake and spend the night with a local family in their home.  Walking into town for a meal the heavens suddenly open up and we almost regret booking the tour for tomorrow.  We have a Chinese meal then have to wade back to the hotel as the streets have become rivers.  Worse still it is really cold.  Think this is the start of the rainy season in which case we may have to review our tour plan and get a bit of a move on further south. 

PUNO, AMERICA INN www.americainnpuno.com

PS40 (£8.80).

SUNDAY 25 October – Our trip begins at 8am when we board a boat, the inside being much like a coach.  There are Spanish, French and English speakers on the board so our guide Tito Castro repeats everything in 3 languages.  Heading out onto Lake Titicaca we soon enter the area of the Uros “floating” islands.  They are incredible, made of the local totura reeds each one houses many families.  There are so many that each tour boat stops at a different one, ours is Isla Suma Balsa.  When you step onto the reeds you almost feel drunk as you bounce up and down and sway.  We gather for an explanation as to how the islands are created and the reason that there are now so many - the original big ones were cut either in half or into smaller pieces when people fell out!  Although they are technically floating they are all anchored down so don’t go anywhere.  Not only are the islands made of totura reeds but the houses on them, the boats and everything else is made of the reeds and they even eat the roots.  Inhabitants either fish or make things to sell to the tourists.  Totally unique we are really impressed by the spectacle.  Back on the boat we motor for about 3-hours to get to Amantani Island where we will spend the night with a local family.  En-route we are taught a number of phrases in the islanders “ketchuan” language.  Once you arrive the locals are gathered waiting for you and a family member is called forward and a visitor name matched to them.  Our host is an elderly man called Gregorio.  Lake Titicaca is at over 3800m and the island homes are scattered up the side of the mountain.  There are no cars, motorcycles or bikes on the island so working is the only way to go.  Hiking up is incredibly difficult at this altitude and we have to keep stopping for breath as do most of the other tourists.  The island is divided into 10 communities and Gregorio lives in Colquecachi which unfortunately is high up.  We walk past the community square and up a dirt track to finally reach his home where we are introduced to his wife Andria.  Our room is a basic adobe construction with the earth floor covered with sacking and the roof lined with more sacks.  There is no electricity and just 4 beds and a table and chairs.  The toilet is an outside dunny with a bucket of water outside for flushing.  Gregorio indicates we should have a rest and brings us some mint tea to help combat the effects of altitude.  After about 1-hour we begin to wander what is happening as we are supposed to have lunch.  I find out that they are waiting to serve us lunch in the kitchen.  This is a tiny room with the wood burning oven and stove in one corner.  Our meal is thin vegetable soup followed by 4 tiny boiled potatoes and a thin slice of cheese plus more mint tea.  Gregorio also speaks Spanish so we have a bit of a chat about family etc.  Around 3pm the wind gets up and it begins to rain heavily so we return to our room.  4pm there is a meeting of our group in the square but due to a misunderstanding about the trip Steve can’t be bothered going.  He thought we were going to be staying on a floating island whereas I had already said there was no way I was sleeping on a reed bed all night but happy to compromise on this trip.  At the meeting we learn there is a fiesta (party) at 8pm in the village hall but before that a hike to the top of the mountain to watch the sunset.  I pass on that and return home to Steve’s “told you it wouldn’t be worth going to”.  Conversation with the family is difficult so we settle into bed to read until it gets too dark, we only have 1 candle.  Evening meal is thin vegetable soup followed by rice and a few vegetables and mint tea.  Andria’s Dad joins us and we are amazed to learn he is 105 years old – the oldest person we have ever met.  Gregorio is 58, Andria 60 and they have 4 children and 8 grandchildren.  They have been receiving overnight tourists for about 10-years and take it in turns within the community hosting people about every 3^rd day.  Andria and all the local females look rather plump but when she brings me a traditional outfit to wear to the fiesta I realise why.  They are wearing 2 extremely full skirts of heavy cotton and for proper fiestas can wear up to 20 skirts.  I have a fancy blouse then a tight wide corset thing around my waist and a big heavy black shawl over my head.  Steve gets off lightly with a poncho.  At the village hall they have 2 bands playing traditional music and our hosts soon have us up dancing.  The start of the dance has you holding both hands and shimmying backwards and forwards.  At some point this breaks up and everyone forms a huge circle and begins running round but then the circle pulls inwards to make you run faster – a bit like a New Years Eve kind of dance.  They are serving drinks and Gregorio and Andria seem delighted when we buy them both a large beer and share them amongst their friends.   Head for home around 10pm.

LAKE TITICACA, ISLA AMANTANI, COMUNIDAD COLQUECACHI

MONDAY 26 Oct. 09 – It is light around 5am and we hear our hosts pottering around.  Gregorio still farms whilst Andria works in the kitchen (no idea how it can take so long to prepare the food) and knits.  At 6.30am we get a knock for breakfast, a pancake and cup of coffee.  I find out that they both have cold feet and cannot afford socks so we give them the spare pairs we had brought to wear.  With no water to wash we figure we might as well keep our dirty stuff on!  Hike back down the mountain to the port for our 7.30am departure.  Chatting to others on the boat we may have had the short straw with one of the highest houses whilst others had electricity, wooden floors and eggs on the menu.  About an hour away is the other large island of Taquile.  Here we must walk up and around the mountain to meet in the main square.  I realise it is another steep hike so settle in to my slow walk ending up way behind everyone else.  We pass through many arches indicating entry to the different community.  The walk is not all up hill and on the flat I overtake most of the others as I am not in the least puffed out.  The main square is very busy on Mondays.  This community believes in being equal so each Monday the takings from the shops and restaurants is shared out between the islanders and they come to the square to collect it.  Also each tour group is allocated to a different restaurant and each week a different family runs it.  Another interesting thing is their clothing which by colour, style and the way it is warn shows not only which family they belong to but whether the person is under 5 –years, over 16- years, married or single.  The men make all the clothing for the females and vice versa so we see many men wandering around knitting.  An extra quirk is that the way a girl holds the pom-poms on her shawl indicates whether she is happy or sad.  Marriage is for life but before that couple live together for up to 3-years to decide if they are right for each other and all weddings take place on 2^nd May attended by all 3000 islanders.  We have time to wander around and observe village life before heading to the other side of the island.  The lake is a beautiful blue colour the landscape really interesting with lots of terraces.  The tour stops at a restaurant for lunch but it is only 10.30am and the few of us that are not hungry carry on back to the boat.  The whole trip is really well organised and Steve has to admit that he is glad have done it.  Arrive back in Puno at 3pm getting back to our hotel minutes ahead of a heavy downpour.  Steve is spoilt for choice with football on the telly and also being played in the stadium beneath our window. 

PUNO, AMERICA INN

TUESDAY 27 October – Catch the 7.30am Pan American bus to Copacabana, PS15 (£3.30).  Our journey follows the shore of Lake Titicaca and after about 2-hours we are in the last Peruvian town where the bus stops for 10 minutes for people to change money.  And so after 3 weeks in Peru we reach the border and complete exit formalities then walk a short distance to gain entry into BOLIVIA, (30 days), where the coach picks us up.  Currency is the Boliviano with approx 11Bs = £1.  Bolivia is 1-hour ahead of Peru making us now 4-hours behind England which is now on GMT.  It is only 8km to the lakeside resort of Copacabana.  This is a famous pilgrimage centre combined with a tourist spot.  There are plenty of bottom and middle end hotels and we pick “Wendy Mar” a modern hotel with cable TV and breakfast for Bs 80 (£7.20).  They have a laundry service at Bs10 (90p) kilo which I am happy to use as I am now wearing my last outfit of clean clothes.  It is a busy little town with lots of small shops selling drinks and many booths offering tours to the Isla Del Sol and bus tickets.  The cathedral is very unusual and almost looks like a mosque with many domed outbuildings but we can’t find the door that leads us to the room where the famous “Virgen de Copacabana” is encased in glass.  Steve finds a bar to watch football in the afternoon and also eats there.  In the evening we walk along the waterfront and select from the numerous restaurants offering much the same menu of trout in various forms at Bs18 (£1.60). 

COPACABANA, MAR WENDY

Bs 80 (£7.20) Inc breakfast

WEDNESDAY 28 OCTOBER – The main thing to do here is visit the sacred islands.  Having already done an overnight island trip we kick out that option and with Liverpool playing this afternoon the whole day trip is off.  A half day tour leaves at 8.30am and visits the southern part of Isla Del Sol, Bs15 (£1.35).  It takes just over an hour to get there and we land at the bottom of the famous “Escalera Del Inca”, Inca steps.  Climbing up these leads us to the “Fuente Del Inca”, Inca fountain.  We have a long enough stop to climb higher for the views.  Lake Titicaca is a beautiful blue and with the islands it has a Mediterranean feel.  Unfortunately the lake water remains at 9C all year so far too cold to swim in.  Our next stop just around the corner is Templo Pilcocaina ruins, nothing to write home about.  Overall it has been a nice boat ride but I think to really appreciate the island you need to do the day tour and hike from north to south.  We get chatting to fellow tourists and end up getting together for a drink when we get back at 12.30pm.  Carlos is a travel agent from Buenos Aires whilst Alexis is Peruvian and a photographer and his girlfriend Jessica is from Bolivia.  Alexis insists on ordering a bottle of the local spirit to be drunk with Sprite, ice and a squeeze of lime.  Both Jessica and I opt out and leave the men to the hard stuff.  Bar owner Faro from Chile joins them and as the bottle goes down the guitar and drums come out.  Suddenly Steve is speaking much better Spanish and has the hang of playing the tom tom!  Faro entertains us with his diablo stunts and even manages to have it running along the telegraph wires.  Jessica and I order meals whilst the lads enjoy a liquid lunch.  Carlos leaves to catch the bus to La Paz but it is 3.30pm before we leave the bar, only for Steve and Alexis to move on to the one showing the Liverpool match.  I return to the hotel to await Steve’s return at 6pm when he is just about fit enough to strip off and roll into bed. 

COPACABANA 2, MAR WENDY

THURSDAY 29 October – After breakfast we set out to climb the hill “Cerro Calvario”.  The trail follows the “stations of the cross” up to the summit which is dotted with strange stone altars where pilgrims burn offerings.  In fact we see quite a few fake $100 notes that have not burnt properly.  The views in all directions make it worth the effort and boy was it an effort battling against the cool air and altitude.  We wander round the town where many stalls sell the giant popcorn made from the world’s largest corn grown in the region.  Last night Steve can’t remember much about walking home but in his pocket were details of our rendezvous with Alexis who has invited us to share his taxi to La Paz.  We meet them at 1pm; he is not well as he went out drinking again yesterday evening.  Our journey takes us along the shores of Lake Titicaca with some splendid views.  At one point we have to cross a narrow part of the lake on a ferry.  I use the term loosely as they are individually owned sort of flat barges with a low powered outboard motor.  You drive on forwards and head towards the back of the boat on a slope enabling the uncovered front end to rise out of the water.  The same boats also take coaches and lorries and they look really strange nosing down towards the back, reckon we would have been having a fit if we had needed to drive our motorhome onto one!  It is a very short distance but takes over 20 minutes to cross.  Alexis is a photographer so has the driver make many stops so we can take photos of the lake and the snow capped mountains.  Approach to La Paz is at the high level where the poorer people live.  Traffic is horrendous and every other vehicle seems to be a mini bus.  In the centre they are controlling traffic by banning certain number plates on specific days and today our taxi cannot enter.  Alexis has booked a hotel in the centre so has to take a different taxi.  He will accept nothing towards the fare and leaves us in his original taxi to continue to our destination.  We are Couchsurfing with Ronnie who has directed us to an area near where he works but we are over 1-hour early.  With time to kill I get a haircut, Bs25 (£2.25) and do some Internet work.  Ronnie arrives around 6.45pm and gets us all into a taxi out to his home south of the city.  He was born in La Paz but has spent time living in Germany.  Although he is a civil engineer he designed his hour on 3 stories with lots of attractive features.  We are offered the study complete with bed, chair bed, mattress on the floor and 2 arm chairs.  Ronald asks if we like curry as he has arranged to meet some people in town for a meal.  Not only do we like curry but the place he suggests “Star of India” is the one our friend recommended as does the Rough Guide.  We need to return to the city and public transport options here range in price order from private taxi, trufis (shared taxi with fixed route), mini bus to big bus.  A ride in the trufi is Bs3 (27p) pp and takes us to the main square.  From there we walk to meet up with fellow Couchsurfers from France Olivier and Viviane and Ronald’s friend.   The curry house is packed out so we go for a drink then return to eat just after 10pm.  On the menu is “the world’s most dangerous” vindaloo, extremely hot and anyone who can eat it gets a special t-shirt to say they survived it.  Steve is seriously tempted other than the fact it is so late at night.  The food is good and we enjoy the company but are whacked by the time we get back.

LA PAZ, COUCHSURFING WITH RONALD

FRIDAY 30 OCTOBER – Ronnie has left for work by the time we get up.  La Paz is the capital of Bolivia and the highest capital in the world at over 3500m.  Today we want to visit the attractions in the city centre.  Leaving Ronnie’s in daylight we realise what as fantastic area we are in.   Not only do you have the distant backdrop of the snow capped Andes but closer to the city are amazing rock formations much like the badlands in America.  We take a minibus Bs2.30 (20p) into the main square then set out on foot.  Immediately get side tracked by visiting the free folklore museum.  The exhibition of death masks is brilliant.  Calle Jaen is a really attractive narrow street with lovely buildings and many museums.  A combined ticket to 4 of them is 4BS (35p).  Unfortunately we are visiting at the same time as many school children and the closed in rooms end up being a bit whiffy.  One group of kids are kept in check crocodile style as they are all holding loops either side of a long piece of fabric.  Most attractions are close together and we easily make our way around.  In Plaza Alonso de Mendoza there are lots of stalls selling fruit and drinks.  A huge blackcurrant milkshake plus a big fruit salad is a bargain at Bs9 (80p) for the two.  We are surprised to see lots of people using box cameras but it is just a tourist attraction. The adjacent Museo Tambo Quirquincho, Bs1 (9p) is in a lovely building and also contains a quirky art exhibition.  We see 4 large stuffed dummies hanging from a balcony, they are wearing pink mini dresses but when we get down to the courtyard we can see they have male genitalia hanging down!  One rooms has the walls and floor covered with white painted car tyres and lots of mirrors hung up to enhance the effect.  There’s a street nearby known as “Gringo Alley” with tourist shops, travel agents and restaurants.  This leads us to the “witches market” where we see shrunken dried alpaca foetuses used in witchcraft – Yuk.  After checking out the cathedrals and other museums Steve decides he is ready to tackle the vindaloo.  It is 3pm so we are the only people in the restaurant and chat to owner Matthew.  Steve takes his time and finishes the curry to earn himself the prized “I survived the world’s most dangerous vindaloo” T-shirt.  I take the menu of the day Bs 25 (£2.25) with the nicest mulligatawny soup I have ever tasted, curry of choice plus dessert.  We try to visit the free Post Office museum but it is closed on Fridays but what surprises us is that in the huge area in front of the counters are loads of stalls selling cakes and bread.  We have thoroughly enjoyed everything we have seen and done (far more than expected) so call it a day at 4.30 pm although it takes us 40 minutes to get back in a trufi.  Ronnie is going straight out after work so we settle in to watch a couple of movies.  Just before 10am we hear noise at the gate, Melissa (New Zealand) and her friend Adam (USA) returning Couchsurfers.  They have just been away on a jungle trip so we get to hear a bit about it. 

LA PAZ 2, COUCHSURFING WITH RONALD

SATURDAY 31 OCTOBER – Ronnie has suggested we join him for a typical Bolivian breakfast.  However having arrived home in the early hours this means we don’t set out until around 10.30am.  We go to the modern commercial centre nearby and up a side street call into a café.  Here we eat a kind of mini Cornish pasty, BS3.5 (30p), filled with either vegetables, chicken or beef.  They are delicious and we can see why the waitresses are dashing around with trays full of them.  Ronnie has to go to work but we stay in the area and at the Alexander café have all our needs met.  Steve watches the Liverpool match whilst I make use of the Wi-Fi.  Return after 2pm.  The problem with having my hair short is that each time I have it cut you can see the gray underneath so I have bought a colour to put on.  Spend the rest of the afternoon sat out on the balcony in the sun.  Ronnie gets back mid afternoon and goes to bed then Adam & Melissa return with bags of food from the market.  Adam cooks veggie pasta which we eat together in the kitchen.  Ronnie is holding a Couchsurfing party tonight, partly because it is Halloween but also in South America this is the holiday weekend for the “day of the dead”.  He has put out a general invitation on the website for an 8pm start.  A few people arrive early, each bringing some drinks and appropriate festive food – special biscuits and bread shaped like a mummified corpse with a face.  The party is on the top floor of the house so we drag cushions and mattresses up there and set out the food on a cloth in the centre of the floor.  Throughout the evening guests arrive, a couple of local Couchsurfing hosts but mainly visitors from around the world.  Ireland, Sweden, France, Italy, Canada, Chile, USA. Bolivia, New Zealand and of course ourselves from England.  Pauline from Ireland seems very brave to us having arrived in Chile with her friend and bought motorbikes to tour South America having never had bikes before.  Local host Carla has 2 young children, lived and was married to a Belgian for many years.  Her son Thomas, 12, speaks English and seems to enjoy chatting to us.  Centre of the food is the largest bread and Steve ends up having the honour of breaking in to it.  He has to hold it in both hands like a baby with the head facing away from him, must then begin to tear pieces from the bottom and pass them around before taking one himself.  Around midnight the drink has run out so the bulk of the group head off to a bar whilst Melissa, Adam and we opt to stay behind. 

SUNDAY 11 October – Last night Sara told us how to get out to the Lambayeque museum so we take a taxi, PS10 (£2.20) directly there.  Now we realise that we went right past it on the bus yesterday and had we know this we could have got off and stayed in Lambayeque overnight.  The museum of the royal tombs opens at 9am, PS10 (£2.20) and we are the first in.  The building has been shaped like one of the tombs and inside we see many of the finds from the tombs and replicas of the burial chambers.  It is quite different from anything we have seen before and takes us almost an hour to get around.  Catch a collective PS2.20 (49p) each back to the city.  We keep thinking it is full but the conductor leans out of the window touting for more business until there are 17 of us jammed into the small mini bus.  Pick up our luggage then taxi PS2.50 (55p) to the Linea bus station.  We make it just on time to catch the 11am one to Trujillo, PS14 (£3.10) pp.  I am pretty tired but the landscape is so interesting I don’t want to miss anything.  It begins with flat desert that then becomes dotted with small grass covered sand dunes.  The villages have obviously appeared due to a water supply as they are surrounded by paddy fields.  Other crops being grown are tobacco, corn and sugar cane.  We’d been told that not all buses are the same quality but so far in Peru they have all been much the same and drivers have been very steady.  Arrive in Trujillo at 2.45pm and pick up another taxi PS10 (£2.20) to take us out to Huanchaco beach resort where Matt recommended Naylamp Hostal.  It is at the northern end of the promenade so should be quieter.  We take a simple room around a courtyard in the back and drop off our bags.  Many locals are at the beach but it is a cold and windy day so they are either sitting in their cars or out walking.  The one thing we have never seen before is the reed canoes that the local fishermen use.  It has a really holiday feel and even has a pier.  We check out a couple more hostals and book into the Ocean for tomorrow.  Their rooms are better than ours, have a TV as well and are cheaper.  Walking back we spot John & Sue in a bar.  They are on an organised day tour and have 20 minutes here so the odds of us spotting them were slim.  We talk to their tour guide and book on for tomorrow.  We eat at Naylamp then settle down for an early night.

HUANCHACO, NAYLAMP

PS50 (£11)

Monday 12 Oct. 09 – Trolley our bags along to Ocean Hostal where the extremely friendly owner stores them.  A colectivo (micro bus) costs PS1.5 (33p) to the edge of the city with the ubiquitous stops every few kilometres for the conductor to dash from the bus to a machine to get a card stamped and then back on – seems to be some sort of clocking on system.  Trujillo has some lovely colonial buildings especially surrounding the main square.  We are not sure what is happening there but lots of school groups are there in uniform and with instruments.  Making a quick tour of the highlighted sights doesn’t take too long.  Yes there are some nice buildings and churches but nothing that much different from what we have seen elsewhere.  Call into the Linea office and book our bus ticket to Lima for tomorrow morning leaving at 8.30am on the direct bus, PS35 (£7.70).  They have buses leaving almost every ½ hour in various categories from the economy right up to VIP cama cama which has beds.  We have opted for the cheapest comfortable one and the one the salesperson recommended for tourists.  At Hostal Colonial we pay for our tour, PS25 (£5.50) per person and at 11am board the mini bus.  We head out to the edge of the sandy desert where some temples have been discovered.  The Moche ruins from 400AD to 600AD include Huaca Del Sol, the largest adobe temple in the Americas but its interior has yet to be excavated.  Opposite is Huaca de la Luna with excavations revealing the remains of a town between them.   PS11 (£2.40) gets you into Huaca de la Luna and you must have a guide to go round which is one of the reasons we did a tour.  Evers gives a great explanation of how this ceremonial temple is actually 4 temples one on top of another in the form of an inverse pyramid.  The first temple was the smallest and when the king died the rooms were filled in with adobe stones, a new surrounding wall made outside the existing one and a new temple built on top.  Excavations have shown that this happened 4 times but little survived of the top layer as the desert sand and winds eroded it.  It is easy to see the other layers with magnificent coloured wall carvings.  The whole set up reminds us much of Egypt and although not as impressive it is better than we expected.  Back in the city the tour pauses at Sombrero restaurant for lunch (not included).  It may be a tourist restaurant but most of the diners are Peruvians.  They put on a dance show and also drag some unsuspecting tourists up in “Generation Game” style to try and copy them.  The afternoon tour is to the Chan Chan complex, PS11 (£2.40) for all parts of the site, except the museum is closed on Mondays.  From 1100AD Huaca Arco Iris o Dragon has been excavated and renovated so you can see the rainbow and dragon wall carvings that give it the name.  Out in the desert the Chan Chan palace of Nik An covers a huge area with excavations revealing walls about 1 metre high.  We are escorted round by an additional guide, Toby a dog that is of the same breed that would have been here 1000 years ago – a hairless dog with big pointed ears.  Chan Chan, the capital of the Chimu Empire, is an area of around 20km with numerous palaces yet to be excavated.  The tour ends at Huanchaco beach where we peel off and head to our new room. 

HUANCHACO 2, OCEANO

PS30 (£6.60)

TUESDAY 13 October – By 7.15am we are on bus “H”, PS1.20 (27p) which takes us right to the Linea bus station arriving just before 8am.  It is a fancy bus station with free Wi-Fi, and as you board the bus there is a security camera check and finger printing.  You have to put your right “peter pointer” finger into the ink then print it on a plan of the bus seats to show which seat you are in.  The “directo” is a very comfortable bus, fewer seats than normal so more legroom.  Set off at 8.45am heading out into the desert.  Again near towns there are farming areas and in one village we see a side street full of carrots drying out.  There is a 40 minute stop for lunch at a restaurant with reasonably priced meals but we didn’t know about this so have already had a picnic on the bus but manage to fit in an ice cream from the street stall.  In the afternoon we ask the conductor if he can put English subtitles on with the movie so that helps pass the time.  Nearing Lima the scenery is stunning with steep sand hills dropping sharply into the ocean and the road cut into the side of them.  We reach the outskirts of Lima at ¼ to 5 but the traffic is terrible.  The population of the capital city is around 8m with half the people living in poor conditions and this is the area of the city we reach first.  2-hours and about 30km later we reach the city centre bus depot.  A total journey time of 10 hours instead of the 8 ½ quoted.  It is just about dark so we get ourselves into a taxi, PS10 (£2.20) out to the Miraflores suburb where our host lives.  It is less than 8km away but takes the best part of an hour.  Mauricio lives in the “Happy Home”, an old building he leases then sublets rooms.  At the moment he has 3 French people, a Welsh girl and some Americans staying.  He has been really kind and moved out of his en-suite room to give it to us.  It is on the roof top and a bit like a cabin leading onto the roof terrace.  Miraflores is the new suburb of town and very modern compared to the centre.  It is also a very safe area so we walk out to Parque Kennedy and stop for a meal.  There are a few things we want to do here but having seen how busy the traffic is and how cold it is in the city we intend to try and get them all done tomorrow so we can move on.

LIMA, MIRAFLORES, COUCHSURFING WITH MAURICIO

WEDNESDAY 14 October – There was a short lull of traffic noise during the night but not for long.  All the vehicles hoot the minute there is a car in front of them.  Road rules definitely don’t apply here but when people cut across in front or cut in there doesn’t seem to be any problem.  You certainly have to drive with a view that anything can happen at the front or the side of you at any time.  We take a bus, PS1.20 (27p) to get near to the city centre then walk.  There are some very elaborate churches and the main square is surrounded by beautiful buildings.  Nearby the San Francisco church has catacombs and a combined ticket, PS10 (£2.20) gets us a tour of the monastery, museum and catacombs where 70,000 people were buried.  The bones have been dug up and placed by type in the shallow graves.  There is a changing of the guard at the Presidential Palace at 11.45 but few people gather to watch it making the Police with riot shields look a bit silly.  The guards have nice uniforms, there’s a band piping the old duty off and new one on but they need a bit more co-ordination with their goose step style marching.   In China town we get a good buffet at the China Salon, PS26 (£5.70) then try to walk it off by cutting back across the city towards the bus depot.  En route we can’t resist ducking into the free bank museum (numismic, archaeological finds, paintings and local wares) and death museum (a fancy coffin plus pictures and paintings of cemeteries).  One of the problems in Peru is that each bus company has a depot in a different part of town so it is really difficult to compare buses and prices.  Cruz Del Sur is known to have one of the best bus companies, and the most expensive, but their depot is easy to get to.  End up booking their coach to Nazca for tomorrow morning, PS66 (£15).  We take a bus out to Miraflores and get off near the beach area.  It surprises us to find we are on a cliff top a hundred or so feet above the ocean.  All along there is a promenade linking various parks.  If it weren’t so cold and windy I guess it would be very pleasant.  One of the parks is to commemorate love with a huge statue of a couple lying down kissing and a long ceramic curving seat with the names of couples.  Further along is a park where people jump off to paraglide, at PS150 (£33) I would be tempted were it not so flipping cold.  Arrive back at the Happy Home just before dark. 

LIMA 2, MIRAFLORES

THURSDAY 15 Oct. 09 – Up at 6.30am and take a taxi to the bus station, PS8 (£1.80).  There is not much traffic so we arrive early and manage to change to the 7am bus.  This time we get a hand baggage security check boarding the bus then someone comes round with a video camera!  We can see what we are paying extra for, leg rests, blankets, pillow, meals and internet.  Well the Internet doesn’t work and the leg rests are not so comfortable in the long term and the breakfast of an olive sandwich, a cheese roll and a tart was no great shakes so maybe the cheaper buses are good enough for us.  Heading south we pass many nice looking beach resorts that we a/ wished we had known about and b/ had time to check out.  Arriving in Nazca at 2pm we are immediately assaulted by people at the bus station trying to sell us flights over the famous Nazca lines, accommodation or other tours.  Last night Mauricio phoned up our Couchsurfing host in Nazca to confirm arrangements and Javier volunteered to meet us at the bus station at 2.30pm.  By 3pm there is no sign of him and his mobile phone is switched off.  Later his phone is on but not being answered and by 4pm we figure something is wrong so check into The Walk On Inn.  The rooms are very basic but they are very welcoming and the inn has everything a backpacker needs and more including a small indoor swimming pool.  Walking around Nazca we get lots of people trying to sell us tours or get us into their restaurants but at least they accept our refusals.  Settle on a nice restaurant for our evening meal but even there the Dutch waiter Ronald tries to sell us a flight and tours.  At least he manages to offer us the flight at $46 when everyone is selling it for $50 and the best previous offer was $48pp.  We are ready to book anyway so take him up on the deal for 7am tomorrow.  Catch a street parade of children and floats whilst we are eating our meal.

NAZCA, THE WALK ON INN www.walkoninn.com

PS50 (£11)

FRIDAY 16 Oct. 09 – We have had a bad night, having asked for a quiet room at the back of the hostel we find there is a local house beneath our window and they played loud music until after midnight.  Then from 4am onwards we were surrounded by cockerels (or as Natasha would say cockroaches) crowing.  Ronald meets us just before 7am, for our flight over the mysterious Nazca lines, and takes us out to the airport.  When we get there we realise he hasn’t actually booked us onto a flight but is going from desk to desk to get a deal – in fact this is what we should have done ourselves.  Anyway including airport tax we pay PS150 (£33) each and go with Aero Palcazu taking off in a Cessna C206 5-seater plane at 8am.  Our flight takes us over more than a dozen figures and to make sure everyone gets a good view the pilot circles over them clockwise then anti clockwise so steeply that the wing is almost vertical to the ground.  Each was drawn with one continuous line by dragging something over the stones to reveal the lighter sand underneath.  They are an amazing sight and you can clearly see the 110 metres monkey, 46 metres spider, lots of birds and other symbols.  The largest figure we see is the parrot at 200 metres long.  Our flight lasts 30 minutes and I half wish we had done the longer one.  Return to our room until check out time at 12.30.  Take a walk around town intending visiting the museum but it is PS15 (£3.30) pp and we have no idea what it is or if there is info in English so give it a miss.  Pick up one of the “lucky dip” lunch deals at PS6 (£1.35) and get a nice soup, good main meal and drink.  Spend the rest of the afternoon by the swimming pool then in the lounge killing time until our coach departure.   Arriving at the Cial depot we hear our coach will not be leaving at 8pm as it will be late arriving from Lima.  In fact we don’t leave until 9.15pm but at least it is a nice coach much the same as the ones used by Cruz del Sur but at PS100 (£22) rather than PS140 (£32).   It is already dark but we can tell we are making a steep climb with lots of switchbacks and nothing but sheer rock face ahead of us.  It is really slow progress made worse by heavy fog.  The evening meal is cold rice and chicken which we turn down to be given a small bread roll with jam and a coke.  Although the coach set up is similar to that on an aeroplane the food is definitely worse.  Watch a movie then settle down to try to doze.  It is not easy as the bus sways around the bends and we also stop 3 times with the drivers getting out and walking round the coach which is a bit of a worry.

CIAL BUS FROM NAZCA TO CUSCO

SATURDAY 17 October – Neither of us gets much sleep so are glad when dawn breaks around 5am and we can enjoy the view.  We are now high up in the Andes but seem to continue climbing or driving along valleys then making another climb over a mountain range.  Many times we are actually above the clouds and it quite spectacular.  Breakfast is a jam roll and coke followed by a couple of movies.  We are more than happy to arrive in Cusco at 1.15pm after our 15-hour journey.  Although we have tried to break the long coach journeys up into smaller stretches in this instance there is no choice.  We hop into a taxi to Ronald’s, our Couchsurfing host.  As we reach the area where he lives the road is closed for a big religious procession.  The taxi driver circles around and can’t seem to find a way through at which point we hear a voice calling out to us in English.  Ronald is chasing us up the street, hops into the taxi and leads us to the nearest place to his home.  We get out and walk and Ronald immediately throws Steve’s heavy rucksack on his back saying it is no trouble for him to carry as he is a porter.  Ronald and his brother Willie both work as tour guides, Willie a recently qualified official one and Ronnie still unofficial.  They share a flat and have a spare bedroom for guests.  They offer us coca tea to help reduce the effects of altitude sickness (3500M) and give us lots of information about the area.  It seems that in Cusco they have packaged 16 tourist sites into one ticket, a great idea but except it costs $45 (£30) whether you do 1 or all of them (and this does not include Machu Picchu which is a further $40 (£27).  However Ronald convinces us it is the way to go in conjunction with bus tours that take us to the sites.  He suggests we have a late nap which we are happy to do and we are so weary and cold that we don’t even bother to undress.  Reckon we must smell pretty rank after our night on the bus but who cares?  Apparently being weary is one of the effects of altitude sickness which often seems like a hangover.  The other thing we have both noticed which isn’t mentioned in the book is that we get loads of crusty dry bogies up our noses!  Early evening they suggest going out for a meal and we are joined by their other Couchsurfing guest Kyle from America.  At the local restaurant we get soup, main course and coffee for PS5 (£1.10) and it is not bad at all.  After a brief walk around the area and a view of the city by night we are ready for bed.

CUSCO, COUCHSURFING WITH RONNIE.

SUNDAY 18 OCTOBER – We feel better after a good sleep and a shower and ready to hit the town.  Ronnie & Willie guide us down the hill dropping our laundry off en route.  Arrive in the San Francisco square with a nice church.  Next on the agenda is breakfast up one of the side streets, P2.50 (55p).  It is similar to the lunch and evening menu with full meals so I opt for fresh trout which comes, as always, with rice, a slice of cucumber, one of tomato and a few raw onions.  Included in the price is a bread roll and coffee so we can understand why the lads don’t bother to cook at home.  At the moment I am finding that I want to eat food but only a little and would rather have a very small snack every couple of hours.  I am sure we are eating too much rice and bread but this is so often the tradition.  On our own we are trying to eat fruit and yoghurt.  We want to buy our train tickets to Machu Picchu (you can book on line www.perurail.com) and at the station find we cannot get on the back packer train the day we want so have to delay until Wednesday to go.  The price is $31 (£20) pp each way for the 1-1/2hour journey from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes.  The full journey is from Cusco but that is more expensive and adds another 3-hour to cover a not very interesting part of the line.  Top of the range is the Hiram Bingham class with full silver service dinner at just $500 (£300) return.  Ronnie leads us through the town pointing out interesting places and we are lucky to catch the army ceremony in the main square.  The historical district of Cusco is really nice.  We meet up with Kyle to walk to the bus stop.  I hear a barking dog and the next thing I know it is hanging off my calf.  I shout out and it runs away, Luckily I have trousers on so only have a tiny puncture mark and cover It with hand sanitizer.  Tipon is about ¾ hour bus ride, PS1 (22p) into the country.  It is Sunday so we are going to have a traditional roast dinner and in Tipon this means roast guinea pig.  The delicacy is much cheaper here than in the city and cooked better.  Ronnie & Willie select a restaurant where 1 whole guinea pig, jacket potato, spaghetti and a stuffed pepper costs PS20 (£4.40).  I blank my mind to the fact that we have had them as pets and first try the shoulder of guinea pig.  It is a black meat and very dry so I move onto the leg which is a bit like chicken.  I still think it is way over rated so pass my half over to Steve.  The lads demolish theirs leaving just a small pile of bones on their plates.  Using the jaw bones they then have fun creating funny sculptures; in fact the bird one is really good!  In Tipon there is an archaeological site that is included in our Cusco ticket so the others head back to the city and we take a taxi up to the site, PS8 (£1/75), 20 minutes drive on a dirt road up a steep hill.  It is the only working example of Inca irrigations system and we are impressed at the sight of lots of terraces with water being fed into channels down the terrace and across each field.  The taxi down is only PS5 (£1.10) and the bus back to town PS1 (22p).  This is one of the buses the locals call “bread on bread” as you are packed as tight as a loaf of sliced bread.  We have about ½ walk back to the historic district then kill time on the Internet, PS1 (22p) hour, until the theatre opens.  Again included in our ticket is a cultural show.  It is really not our scene but nice to see the different traditional costumes.  In the interval you are invited to look at the costumes in the museum and it is really funny to notice they are all on models that are taller than me.  I have yet to see anyone round here that even comes to my shoulders.  By the 5^th dance we have had enough and take a taxi back to Ronnie’s. 

CUSCO 2, COUCHSURFING WITH RONNIE

MONDAY 19 October – Take a taxi down to “Qorikancha site museum” to begin our tour of the attractions included in the ticket.  It is a very small museum with nothing to hold our attention.  At the “Museum of Popular Art” surprises us as we really like the displays of quirky sculptures.  In the “Museum of contemporary art” we see sculptures made out of bones which is probably where Ronnie & Willie got their guinea pig sculpture idea from.  There’s a separate admission fee of PS10 (£2.20) for the Inka Museum has been recommended to us a here we see trepanned skulls.  These are fractured skulls that have been repaired by way of a hole being made then filled and soldered with gold and silver enabling the person to live.  The museum is within the Admirals Palace and the exhibition takes you through some very nice rooms.  It is lunch time and we head up the hill towards San Blas and come across Toqokatchi restaurant with interesting PS10 (£2.20) and PS15 (£3.30) 2 course menu plus a drink.  It is a very cosy place and we order from each menu with Steve trying Alpaca steak in a creamy rosemary sauce whilst I get a nice trout fillet.  The dearer menu even includes are large glass of wine and we both really enjoy the meal.  Further along Carmen Alto we see “Edilberto Merlda Rodrigueza” studio and find it is a lot of the work that we saw in the popular art museum.   His daughter shows us around and explains her father died 4 months ago but his work represents the Indians with characteristic big hands and feet to show how hard they work.  Return to the main square to meet up with Ronnie as he has booked us on the afternoon City Tour, PS20 (£4.40).  Our guide Carlos does his talk in English and Spanish.  First stop Koricancha, PS10 (£2.20) a most impressive buildings where the Santo Domingo Convent used an existing Inca temple and adapted it to their own. Originally the interior was coated with gold plate and the outside wall topped with a cornice of gold all of which was pilfered by the Spanish.  We are not the only group going round and it is very difficult to hear the talk and to actually see much.  Heading out of town up the hill we arrive at Sacsayhuaman (sounds a bit like sexy woman).  This is the next 3 sites are included in the Cusco ticket.  When Cusco was first built it was in the shape of a Puma and this area was the head.  The fortress edges are in a zig zag shape to show the animal frowning.  Here they unearthed some skulls that showed Inca skills at dentistry with missing teeth replaced by pieces of stone in the poor people and gold or silver in the richer ones.  Not only is it an impressive site but we get stunning views over Cusco.  Qenko is a large limestone outcrop with natural passageways and caves.  Puca Pucara is a lookout area also used for stop over’s by runners.  Tambo Machay is a temple of the waters where the water of youth flows out of a fountain.  The entry path is lined with vendors and it is extremely touristy but fairly interesting although the best of them all for me was Sacsayhuaman.  On the way back to town we stop off at factory outlets with local wares.  This means we head down the hill in the dark to be greeted by the wonderful spectacle of Sacsayhuaman by floodlight. 

CUENCA 3, COUCHSURFING WITH RONNIE

TUESDAY 20 October – Today we are doing the Sacred Valley Tour, PS30 (£6.60) so Ronnie & Willie take the taxi down town with us to get us onto the bus and recommend the left hand side for the best views.  We are taking all our baggage with us as one of the stops on the tour is Ollantaytambo and we are getting off there to stay the night.  We retrace our route from yesterday past the ancient sites.  Our first stop is a village craft market where prices are said to be good.  Don’t know about the crafts but the large glass of freshly squeezed orange juice at PS1 (22p) is terrific.  There is also a market in Pisac and we have time to wander around but from the minute we arrive and find they charge PS1 (22p) for the toilet when it is normally half that and double the normal price for empanadas we realise it is just for the tourists. The ruined citadel on the hill is spectacular with a 98 tier Inca terrace running down from it.  You have to walk 2km to see the citadel and it is quite a hike with lots of steps but the view is fantastic.  There is even the Temple of the Sun at the top.  The tour takes us along the valley with a stop for lunch then on to Ollantaytambo.  The bus comes to a halt at roadworks and Carlos our guide announces that we can go no further and must walk the rest of the way.  We have our entire luggage with us so I quickly pack up the stuff we have on board whilst Steve goes out to collect the bags.  Carlos immediately takes a hold of Steve’s heavy rucksack enabling us to carry the rest between us.  Most of the streets are cobbled and a bit slippy as it has been raining.  The main square has been completely dug up as has the last stretch of road to the ruins.  We have to clamber down make shift steps and slip and slide down a muddy slope.  Normally we check out a few hostals but under the circumstances we need to check into one quickly to leave the bags.  At this point I realise I have left my handbag on the bus and it has the site admission tickets in it.  Carlos tells Steve to return to the bus which should be in the same place whilst other people help with our bags.  Luckily we have been given the name of Hostal Kuychi down a cobbled pedestrian street off the square immediately in front of the ruins.  They leave me there with the bags and say to join them at the site as soon as we can.  Luckily the rooms at PS50 (£11) are very pleasant so I explain the handbag problem to the girl and she allows me to pick and room and leave our stuff in and check in later.  I wander back to try and find Steve to no avail so return to the square.  I then see Steve in the distance, race towards him to find that he has returned to where we were dropped off but the coach has moved.  I suggest he goes looking for it whilst I wait at the square until the tour returns.  Next I see Carlos on the hill waving to me, he runs down the terraces and comes out to tell me he could see the bus moving off and has phoned the driver to learn it is now in the main square.  I race after Steve but get stuck behind a funeral procession.  I locate the bus and my bag but have little chance of finding Steve in the maze of side streets.  About ½ hour later he returns to the square, not happy but relieved that we have my bag.  We enter the site and soon catch up with Carlos and our group.  This is another terraced site but almost curved around the edge of the valley.  Many of the nearby rocks have faces in them and it is all really nice.  Carlos fills us in on the talks we missed and we carry on with the group around the agricultural terrace and past various buildings.  Return to our hotel room for a quick shower then wander into town.  We are surprised to see a small monkey wandering freely around the side streets but of course we are at the edge of the jungle now.  Was it not for all the road works it would be really lovely exploring although I think Steve probably saw most of the town earlier.  We have to be up at 4am tomorrow so return for an early night. 

OLLANTAYTAMBO, HOSTAL KUYCHI PUNKU

PS50 (£11)    

200910

THURSDAY 1 OCTOBER 2009 – Catch the 8.45am, $2 (£1.20) bus to Riobamba. The direct road is still closed after the February 2008 eruption of volcano Tungurahua so we skirt Ambato then head south along the “avenue of the volcanoes”.  We get a beautiful view of Volcano Chimborazo, at 6310m the highest one in Ecuador and famous as the furthest point from the centre of the earth due to the Equatorial Ridge.  Fellow passengers are kiwi Scott and his Czech girlfriend.  We share a $1 (60p) cab to the centre of Riobamba.  El VIP café is owned by Couchsurfer Juan who advertises last minute beds.  Immediately ahead of us entering the café are 2 young Polish girls, Gosia and Marwina.  Juan says he may have space for us all and walks us to his house nearby.  The girls are happy with the offered mattresses on the floor and we thank him but say we are a bit too old to sleep on the floor and ask if he can recommend a hostel.  Shyris at $8pppn is OK but the rooms are directly over the street so probably noisy.  In fact so noisy that at the junction we hear a terrific crash when a “Coca Cola” lorry takes the corner too fast and sheds part of its load.  Nearby Hotel Tren Dorado has much nicer rooms surrounding a courtyard in the back, $10 pppn (£6).  Drop the bags and head to the nearby railway station.  The famous “Devils Nose” train journey only leaves on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday and needs booking, $11 (£6.60).  At VIP restaurant we have an excellent lunch, complimentary herbal water and popcorn and the meal of the day cream of carrot soup, chips, rice and beef casserole, strawberry whirl and a glass of cherry juice.  The Polish girls join us for coffee and Juan tells us of a free guitar concert tonight.  Exploring the town we find many nice buildings, churches and squares and a park with fine views.  In the main square we employ a couple of local lads to polish our shoes.  They ask for 25c (15p) a pair and do a great job using their hands to work the polish in.  We chat to them and they assure us they went to school this morning.  They are cute kids and enterprising so we pay them double.  The concert in the “Casa Del Cultura” is supposed to start at 7pm, arriving shortly after there are few people there and it only really fills up at about 7.30pm with more people piling in with plastic chairs during the opening speeches.  Safety first doesn’t come into it as they block the aisles and all available exits with extra seats.  People are called onto stage, given certificates and musicians are introduced and it is really long winded.  Around 8pm 3 guitarists and a singer begin performing.  The guitarists twang away in the background whilst the singing sounds a bit like opera.  By the middle of the second song we take the opportunity to escape following the first person who leaves.

RIOBAMBA, HOTEL TRAIN DORADO

$10PPPN

FRIDAY 2 October 2009 – We get up at 5am for the 5.30am $3 (£2.40) buffet breakfast.  Notice as we are leaving that a couple of bread rolls and bananas have fallen into our rucksack!  Arriving at the station at 6am they put on a film show about the building of the Guayaquil to Quito railway. Ecuadorians failed, so in 1895 Americans were called in to engineer what was at that time the “most difficult railway in the world”.  At Sibambe the track entered a valley blocked by an almost perpendicular wall of rock called “The Devils Nose”.  A zigzag was carved out of the rock to allow the train by advancing and backing up to climb the mountain to Alausi.  Today’s journey takes us from Riobamba down the zigzag then back up to Alausi.  Instead of the nice old steam train shown in the picture we get an individual carriage rather like a bus balanced on train wheels.  There is a low platform so it looks very strange.  Leaving at 6.30am we pass through Riobamba suburbs and out into farming country.  It is so interesting; cattle are positioned individually in fields tethered to about 6 foot of rope.  They often break free and many times we must stop for them to move off the track.  Around 8am the train goes down the main street of a town, waits for people to push a parked car off the track and move a few stalls and then pulls up for a toilet stop.  Further on the farming changes to pocket fields of crops and huge areas of fir trees.  There is a lovely section following a small stream through the mountains and here we have to stop as a JCB is clearing part of the track after a landslide.  A short stop in Alausi then we are into the most exciting part of the journey.  There are 2 carriages in use today and we often see the other one higher on the track.  Shunting down the “Devils Nose” is quite a spectacle and after waiting for the other carriage to arrive at the bottom we repeat the process giving all passengers a change to be on the side hanging over the drop.  A few years ago you could sit on the roof of the train but a Japanese tourist fell off and died.  There is a clause on the back of the ticket saying it includes life cover but you can no longer sit on the roof.  Alighting in Alausi at 11.30am we check into Hotel Europa, $24 (£14.50) on the main street.  We are doing rather well fitting into our hoped for $15 - $25 a night room budget and apart from in the remote community Quilotoa have had nice en suite rooms with a double and single bed and often cable TV.  Take a wander round town and up to the huge mosaic covered statue of San Pedro.    In the evening Steve gets the set $4 (£2.40) at the Chinese adjoining the hotel, the main course and coke are great but the tube soup is a bit dodgy even for him.

ALAUSI, HOTEL EUROPA

$24

SATURDAY 3 October – Waiting for the bus I see many locals buying hot herbal drinks from a man with a cart.  I tell him I need something for an upset stomach and get a honey based drink with some of the inside of the aloe Vera leaf and lots of other herbs, 50c (30p).  The bus arrives at 7am, $5 (£3) pp for the 4 hour journey.  After a couple of hours the bus pulls up in a small village at the road junction to Guayaquil.   The driver comes through the bus with a long speck and we pick out bus, problem, road, indigenous, Cuenca.  Many people get off and although we ask him to explain slowly we don’t know what is happening so opt to stay onboard with a few other passengers.  At the next village with a minor road turn off to Guayaquil the bus stops and tells us all to get off.  It seems there is a road block ahead and he can go no further.  The passengers that are left get off.  The driver refunds $1.50pp and says we must get a camionetta to the road block, walk through that and keep repeating the process.  We are not too happy and by the time we have got our luggage back we are alone at the road junction with our bags.  I spot a Police car coming from the direction of the road block and in broken Spanish learn that there are many road blocks but they are not dangerous for tourists and we should be able to get through.  Figure we could try and go back to Alausi or Riobamba, on the side road to Guayaquil almost 200km away or carry on.  In fact we have no options as there are no buses or camionetas in sight. Maybe if we had understood the situation and got off at the last junction we would have had more options.  We hitch a ride and along with another lady get into a truck.  The driver insists we sit with him in the cab and she goes in the back.  He speaks broken English, worked in America as a chef for 15 years, and tells us he is going to Cuenca and will get us as far as he can.  We start to see rocks in the road, sometimes the remains of roadblocks but others that have been thrown at cars.  Driver tells us when we see the partial roadblocks and have to slow down we must look out for people hiding nearby as they may try to hi jack the car.  We reach an area with a continuous line of lorries parked at the side of the road but press on further.  Eventually driver stops a car coming towards us to learn there is a complete block a little further ahead.  Our driver says he must turn back and try the coastal road to Cuenca and invites us to join him.  By now we have realised he has been drinking so we decide to take our leave whilst still in one piece although he’s a nice enough guy and refuses our offer of money.  A bus pulls up behind us so we transfer to that to get a mile or two further on.  The blockade is rocks and burning tyres.  Everyone disembarks, walks around the blockade then continues to walk along the road now lined with lorries.  We feel a bit afraid as we don’t really understand what is going on so make haste to stay with the group of walkers.  After walking for a couple of miles and up a hill we get to the end road block where there are lots of protesters.  If this is what we saw on TV a couple of weeks ago it is about the local indios being asked by the government to pay for their water.  They seem happy for us to skirt the side of the roadblock where another bus is waiting.  No idea where it is going but for $1 pp (60p) we are happy to be on it.  It doesn’t get far before protesters and telegraph poles across the road prevent progress.  Think the driver is making the most of the opportunity to shuttle people the short distance as the locals all complain bitterly about the price.  By the time we have got our luggage the other passengers are way ahead of us.  At the end of the blockade the others have piled into a truck but there is no space for us.  We wait for another one and this takes us to the town of El Tambo.  Walking round town we see lots of lorries and a few buses parked at the side of the road.  In theory we could get another camioneta to the next road block but people seem to be saying there are many more blocks and up to 10km to walk between them.  The opinion is that the road will not be passable until at least 5pm on Monday when the government makes an announcement on TV.  There is no sign of the other bus passengers so they may have tried to get further but given our lack of understanding of the situation and comparatively heavy luggage we are wary.  We phone a Couchsurfing friend in Cuenca who says the next stretch is the worst but if we can get through Canar it will be easy however this is the area where we may have a 10km walk.  We check into a Hotel for the night to chew over our options.  Even if you can get through the way we have been doing with short rides and walks we feel like it would be better to start afresh in the morning.  Reckon the road blocks must come and go and maybe the weekend is when they are worst.  At least we haven’t had the experience we saw on TV of a bus being set on fire.  Wander the town and eat at the Chinese.  Try to gather information on the Internet but there doesn’t seem to be any fresh update about our stretch of road.  We buy some fruit at the market and a big bottle of drinking water and return to our comfortable room to watch TV so could be a lot worse off.

LA TAMBO, HOSTAL CHESKY WASY

$9 PPPN

SUNDAY 4 October 2009 – We’ve had a very disturbed night, our room has a false ceiling and the family lounge is above us.  They had the TV on loud until 2.30am and again from 6.30am so we move rooms.  Looking at a map we may be able to take the side road out to Ingapirca ruins then continue on that to south of Canar.  Walking the town we see lorries now parked both sides of the road for as far as we can see.  Chat to the Police who say the town is effectively sealed off with road blocks on all exit roads including the one to Ingapirca.  A local taxi driver who speaks English confirms this but says we could do the ride, block, walk, block, ride thing to visit the Ingapirca ruins but certainly won’t get onwards from there.  He agrees there is nothing else to do in town and that would be our best option for a trip out.  However he also agrees that the road blocks are at their worst at the weekend and more may spring up and we could end up stranded in Ingapirca so kick that idea into touch, even though we could actually walk the 9km back.   Late morning the lorry drivers are getting restless and create their own human blockade to stop any movement of traffic or other lorry drivers getting ahead of them.  It seems that occasionally lorries are let through the blockade but then they cannot park as the roadside is full and the other drivers get cross if they appear to be trying to push ahead.   After taking lunch at the local café we walk to find out where the road block is on the road towards Canar.  There are small partial blocks but the main one including many people is about 1 mile out of town but more importantly we see a sign saying 9km to Canar so think we misinterpreted the information about having to walk 10km when in fact that was the total distance so we will give it a go tomorrow.  Settle down to sleep around 8.30pm then awake an hour later when I hear English speaking voices.  When I hear a man’s voice saying “we must have walked f…king miles” I reckon I must investigate.  The people are in the room above us and I figure we could exchange information so I give them a knock.  John is English and his girlfriend Sue from Canada.  They have come from Riobamba today, reckon they have walked around 10km between road blocks as there are many more blocks than yesterday and some with piles of earth.  Comparing notes we decide we will try to get further tomorrow together.

EL TAMBO 2, HOSTAL CHESKY WASY

MONDAY 5 October 2009 – We set off together at 7.30am.  Pick up a camioneta in town and ask him to take us as far as he can.  He does exactly what we ask but down dirt roads and finally stops and says we must walk down to a stream, over the bridge then up through the fields to join the PanAm highway.  Not an easy task with all our baggage so we ask him to take us to the PanAm highway even though this is further back, $2 (£1.20) for the ride.  A bus is coming by and takes us further but only for about ¼ mile.  There is a huge road block with telegraph poles, burning tyres and rocks in the road beyond it.  Get out and walk but at least on the road we can trolley our bags along.  In fact we probably walk less than 1km to get beyond the next blockade.  A camioneta pulls up and we explain we are trying to get to Cuenca.  He asks how much we would pay to get there and we offer $5 pp. In the back of his 4wd we set off on a track up in to the mountains.  By asking people coming towards him he manages to navigate a route to take us around the Canar blockages and back onto the PanAm.  After that it is relatively plain sailing as all the blockades have been breached.  He stops at Azogues bus station from where a 50c (30p) ride gets us to Cuenca.  Amazingly we do the whole journey in around 4-hours and cannot believe our luck.  Taxi into town to check out hostels.  By chance Sue & John are on a similar budget to us looking for the same price and standard of accommodation.  We are all happy with the deal of $28 (– 10% for taking 2 rooms) at Casa De Barranco overlooking the river.  It is one of the colonial mansions with lots of character, breakfast is included and we have a room with a proper bath and a nice terrace outside.  There is an Indian curry house nearby so we walk there for lunch.  At this stage John & Sue are struggling to walk far after their long hikes yesterday in flip flops.  The menu looks great but the food is all heavily salted and not great.  With Internet at the hotel we check out our onward options but with flights around $400 to Lima we are reluctant to book.  Around 5pm we meet up with Couchsurfers Diego and Betta.  Betta is from Slovakia and Diego Ecuadorian but has lived and worked in the States so speaks excellent English.  We go to a Columbian restaurant for a snack then they take us for a drive.  There is a great view point south of the city giving us an idea of the size of it.  The centre is a UNESCO site because of all the colonial building and feels quite compact whilst we now understand why it is the 3^rd largest city in Ecuador.  Next we go to the bus station where Diego kindly gathers information for the International bus to Peru.  It is $11 ($6.60) and takes 8-hours but the bus didn’t get through today because of the blockades.  Will try to catch it in a couple of days If the roads are clear, at least there is more to do here if we are stranded!

CUENCA, CASA DEL BARRANCO

$25.20 INC BREAKFAST

TUESDAY 6 October – Set out to explore the town with some really nice churches.  The main cathedral is magnificent with lots of roof domes and a statue of Pope John Paul inside to commemorate his visit to the city.  There is a flower market and a clothes market that includes hotel sized kitchen pans etc, stalls manned by the indigenous people in costume.  The Panama Hat museum is here and we learn that they were called that because they were made in Ecuador but shipped up to the people working on the Panama Canal.  The river walk is lovely and there we spot the quirky medical museum, $1 (60p).  Along with lots of old equipment they have medical magazines that you can look at, Steve enjoyed reading the one for the year he was born.  In a cabinet I am fascinated by a 3-month pickled foetus along with the skeleton of an 8-month one and a mummified 5-year old.  Walking back we pass a church closed for renovation and the guard invited us inside where we have no idea how they are going to have it finished in the 1-year available.  Spot a traffic warden taking photographs of the offending cars – now isn’t that a good idea.  In the market Steve has a freshly carved roast pork dinner, $2 (£1.40) with excellent crunchy crackling and tender meat whilst I have a large glass of freshly squeezed juice, 50c (30p).  Meet up with Diego & Betta at 3pm and they take us out to his parent’s weekend house in the country nearby.  It feels much more than 20 minutes from the city as you are out in farming country and at 200m lower the weather is considerably warmer.  His Dad Miguel soon has us set up drinking beers outside.  Diego has made the American game “corn hole” and we have great fun trying to throw corn bags onto a ramp and into a hole.  Of course our combination of ten pin bowling and petanque skills give us the edge.  They drop us back at the hotel and arrange to pick us up along with Sue & John for an evening of cards at their place.  At 7pm we leave and order a pizza en route.  To begin with we play “Hoopla”, an American game that is a sort of combination of charades, Pictionary and a word game where you have to describe the word on a card you have chosen.  It is great fun and lots of laughs.  After eating we learn the card game “Arsehole”, that the others all know.  Neither of us becomes President but we do manage to rank as arsehole and neutrals a number of times.  Diego asks us all to sign his world map.  You have to sign and put the town you come from with an arrow pointing to it.  It is amazing to see just how many visitors they have had from around the world.  We all agree what an excellent evening out it has been with good like minded company and lots of laughs.

CUENCA 2, HOSTAL DEL BARRANCO

WEDNESDAY 7 October – At the bus station we buy tickets on the 9am International bus to Mancora in Peru, $11 (£6.60).   It is supposed to take 8-hours and be a through bus but today we have to change at the Ecuadorian customs and wait 1 ½-hours for a second bus meaning we will arrive just as it is getting dark. The journey to the Ecuadorian coast is through more spectacular mountain scenery and we are amazed at the journey as Diego & Betta once cycled the 200km in a day.  At the Ecuadorian customs (3km before the border) we get our exit stamps noting we have been in Ecuador exactly a month.  The next bus arrives but is already packed with people and our allocated seat numbers are in use.  It would appear they have merged buses but we are lucky and do get a seat whilst others have to stand.  Entry into PERU is over a bridge then beyond the border town we reach immigration.  You have to queue up to get your entry papers stamped then go to another line to get your passport stamped and registered.  The currency here is Nuevo Soles with approx 5 = £1.  In Tumbes a few people get off so we all have seats.  Our initial impression of Peru is that it is considerably poorer than Ecuador and in many ways more like Mexico.  Near the border there are many villages of huts.  Our journey takes us along the Pacific coast through lots of fishing villages.  After about 50km we arrive at customs, have to get off the bus and file through a buildings whilst the bus is checked then drives on to meet us at the other end.  Arrive in Mancora just after 6pm.  We want to check out a 2-bedroom bungalow seen on the Internet and hop into a couple of motocyclos (tuk tuks) to get there.  The lads say it is 5-minutes away inland but having gone on a dirt road they reach a big hill they cannot get up and say it is a long walk from there so we pass.  It seems that the main resort town of Mancora, with the PanAm passing through, is a small village dominated by back packing surfers and renowned for all night parties.  South along the coast is a dirt road behind the beach lined with big expensive hotels and a few bungalows.  We try a couple of the bungalows but one is full and the other asks PS200 (£40) per room.  After telling the cyclo boys the kind of price we are looking for they suggest we go to “The Point” near the town.  It is now dark and arriving at Estrella del Mar it is hard to see what we are getting other than fairly simple cabin style rooms but at PS80 (£16) it is affordable.  Pay off the cyclos, PS8 (£1.60) each and check in.  At least this place has a swimming pool and grassy lawns, is near the beach and a short walk to the town centre whereas the beach road was isolated.  Walking together into town we see lots of menu of the day offers P5 (£1).  From this Steve & I pick cervice (marinated fish) for starters then I have fish fillet with rice and Steve fried rice with sea food and the price even includes a fruit juice.  Better still you get 4 huge beers for P10 (£2) so maybe the food and drinks prices will offset the more expensive accommodation.  The restaurants are full of back packing Brits.  We take a wander around town and find lots of rooms at PS40 (£8), the rooms are similar to ours but the places have no gardens and are nearer the area where they have discos.  Mind you our room is not exactly quiet overnight as we realise it has no windows just fly screens so we have background noise of the ocean, the main road and the disco’s and are accompanied by ants in our bed.

MANCORA, ESTRELLA DEL MAR

http://www.mancorahotelestrellafugaz.com/

Thursday 8 October 2009 – Compounded by a very firm mattress, mosquitoes buzzing round (at least there is a net) and being cold I have little sleep.  The music goes on until after 4am and before 7am they are watering the grass in front of our bungalow.  We had heard such good reports on Mancora but suspect it was from people who came down and just stayed in the posh hotels further down.  We really like the small town area with shops, bars and restaurants but need to find more suitable accommodation.  When Steve gets up we walk north along the beach and settle on The Sahara Hotel PS110 (£22) night. http://vivamancora.com/saharahotel/index.html we get a nice room overlooking the ocean and a hotel with swimming pool directly behind the beach, gardens, gym, pool, table tennis, internet and breakfast.  We quickly re locate and settle ourselves on the comfy loungers by the pool.  It is hard to get shade here because being near the Equator the sun is almost always directly overhead so we decide on an early beach walk.  We are just about at the end of the northern development and other than a nice new backpackers at the point there are just local houses.  In the afternoon Steve spots a whale out on the horizon.  Late on John & Sue arrive with a bag of beer so we sit and watch the sunset together.  In the village we end up at a local burger bar with freshly made huge burgers and ships and delicious passion fruit juice.  Pick up more beers on the way back and learn another new card game “Yussa”.  We will be sorry to see our new friends go on ahead tomorrow.

MANCURA 2, SAHARA HOTEL

PS110 (£22) INC BREAKFAST

FRIDAY 9 October 2009 – It is a lovely sunny morning so after breakfast we make a quick walk to town to book our onward bus.  The direct walk takes us through a very poor but interesting area of house built with all manner of materials.  There are numerous coach companies in Peru and all seem to have quality buses so we go for the cheapest one with the time to suit us.  Spend the rest of the morning by the pool.  We have new neighbours, John from America and his new Internet girlfriend Marie.  They originally had the nice room with Jacuzzi but have opted to move to the basic rooms.  We ask if they would like to join us for our evening in the village.  Begin at the cheap PS5 (£1) restaurant then go to the La Badjadita for deserts.  Recommended in the Rough Guide they sure live up to expectations and we all enjoy it.  During the evening we learn that John’s English wife died 2 years ago and he now has a travel trailer in America and “met” Marie on line and has come over to visit.  It is so nice to see how well they have hit it off.

MANCURA 3, SAHARA HOTEL 2

Saturday 10 October – Walking to the bus office we are amazed to find no one around.  Steve heads off to draw some cash and get bread and fruit for the journey.  When a lady appears in the office I realise why it is quiet.  We are booked on the 9.30pm bus not am which we wanted.  The error has risen because the Spanish word manana can mean tomorrow or morning.  They have no other bus going where we want and I end up pleading with her to get our money back.  This eventually works so I race to the next nearest office where they do have a 9.30am bus.  El Dorado charge PS25 (£5) but it arrives a little later at 4pm but at this stage I am just happy to have the tickets.  Steve is happy with the upshot and we board the bus for our long journey.  We are soon out into barren desert area where there are many “nodding donkeys” bringing up oil.  Nearer one of the towns there are lots of paddy fields which is quite a contrast.  In Piura we change buses with a half hour wait.  Arriving in Chiclayo we have arranged to be met by a Couchsurfer.  Carlos speaks little English but his Peace Corps girlfriends Sara is on her way into town and we talk to her on her mobile.  She suggests we go to the same hotel she is staying at and arriving at the Hostal Amigos we are more than happy with our double ensuite room with TV.  Carlos seems to know everyone here and introduces us to another Peace Corps worker Matt who spends ages talking to us.  They are all going out to a birthday party later – and I mean later as it starts at 11pm so unable to spend the evening with us.  We take our evening meal at the nearby “Esquina” corner restaurant and really enjoy my fish fillet and chips.  Being in the centre of town we don’t have the quietest of nights.

CHICLAYO – HOSTAL AMIGOS

PS50 (£11)